Posts tagged ‘Bretagne’

February 25, 2019

Church of St Peter , and al. Baden!

Ok so I was in town for a ride in my area with the boys and came back to Baden only 21 kms south of me. I guess told you bits and pieces of it in previous blog and there is so much beauty around it. See my previous posts as Baden is on the head of the Gulf of Morbihan!

As in many posts, the monument heritage around here is huge, and the architecture and history of it enormous. So will tell you a bit more on a simple off the beaten path Church St Pierre (St Peter) in Baden, the Morbihan dept 56 (mine) in the region of Brittany/Bretagne!

Baden

Baden

The Church of St. Pierre ,b.12C, founded by the Rolland family of Cardelan. This Church was rebuilt in 1835-1836 and between 1860 and 1864, when it was completed by a spire with an arrow. The Choir altarpiece dates from the 17C. The Lords of Cardelan had once their burials in the Chapel of Saint John, on the side of the epistle of the ancient Church.

Baden

 Baden

The steeple of the Church of St Pierre forms a remarkable guide for sailors. From the Bay of Quiberon, aligning the white obelisk of the island of Petit Vézy and the steeple, the boats enter the Gulf following the deepest channel. Located in the heart of the town on a headland, it is remarkable for its bell tower built in 1864 and the arrow steeple in 1866 which serves as a guide to the navigators of the Gulf.

This Church of St Pierre, falling dilapidated, was rebuilt in 1835 and 1836, in the form of a Latin cross, with two aisles. The old steeple, having been demolished later, to widen a path, the Church took a squat short form. The new tower, surmounted by an elegant pyramid, all in beautiful sizes of stones, that can be seen from a very far.

Baden

Baden

In 1801, Baden was attached to the canton of Vannes-Ouest, or Saint-Pierre, which was accepted by the bishop in 1802. Dedicated to Saint Peter, the present Church dates back only to the 19C, even though it presents in the south wing the outer buttresses showing its Romanesque origin.

In 1869, the rector acquired a monumental wooden altarpiece dating from the 16C and would come from the Chartreuse of Auray. Reassembled and finished , this altarpiece has been registed as a national treasury in 1912. Outside, near the porch, there are two Gallic stele stones.

It has a quaint small city center with good restaurants and a  traditional museum  of wings and passions, all around the Church of St Pierre. A nice off the beaten path into the creeks and cranny areas of my beautiful Morbihan breton.

 Baden

City of Baden on the Church St Pierre

Museum of Baden

Hope you enjoy the tour of these off the beaten paths places, they abound in France still even if receiving millions of tourists , for the enjoyment of those who seek the traditional and local folklore. Baden is one jewel to be visited, and of course in my Morbihan!

And remember ,happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

February 24, 2019

The other Churches of Rennes!

Ok so I have been to Rennes several times, and written on it on several posts in my blog. All have been of a general nature on day, weekend trips. However, it has so much to offer as things to see, the city is amazing. The capital city of the region of Brittany, and the seat of dept 35 Ille et Vilaine. I like to change all that a bit by telling you about some of its monuments especially from the history ,architecture side I like.

Therefore, here are my takes on two Churches, Notre Dame St Melaine and Toussaints of Rennes. Hope you enjoy it.

Notre-Dame-en-Saint-Melaine Church is located in Rennes, Ille-et-Vilaine department no. 35 in my beloved Brittany. It is located in the extension of Rue Saint-Melaine in the northeast part of the center of the medieval town. It is bordered on its southern façade by the western end of the Thabor Park (see post on it).

rennes ch notre dame st melaine dec13

The sanctuary is dedicated to Saint Melaine, traditionally considered as the first bishop of Rennes, who died here in 6C. He is buried on the hill of the cemetery in Rennes, where the abbey of Saint Melaine was built. The Church served as a Cathedral in the first half of the 19C. Between 1803 and 1844, the Cathedral of Saint-Pierre , deliberately demolished at the end of the 18C and not yet rebuilt, was no longer usable as a cathedral or sanctuary. Notre-Dame-en-Saint-Melaine presents itself today as a composite building in Romanesque and Gothic style, behind a classical and neoclassical tower-steeple. Its layout is in the form of a Latin cross.

A bit of history I like

The primitive Church was built on the tomb of Saint Melaine, Bishop of Rennes at the end of the 5C and early 6C. The construction of the Romanesque church ,taking from 1081 to 1109, some parts of which remain today; such as the transept and the bases of the tower of the steeple. In the first half of the 13C, the square of the transept was covered with a vault of warheads whose departure is still visible. In the 14C, the arches of the nave and the high windows are redone, as well as the choir. In 1432, the tower of the steeple was rebuilt on Romanesque bases. The façade of the steeple is entirely remade in limestone, also in 1683 a new cloister, but the capitals and columns of the ancient cloister of the 11C are preserved in the Museum of Brittany. A Way of the Cross painted in fourteen paintings made in a classical style, inspired by the 17C French or Italian.

The facade of the steeple designed in a perfectly symmetrical way is in very good condition. It dates to its current appearance of 1676, and is made of limestone. From the old stained glass windows of the Church blown up during WWII, during the bombardment of the city, in 1943, which touched notably the Thabor park, remains, at the bedside of the north collateral, a canopy characteristic of the production of the 19C. The stained glass windows are replaced in the 1950’s by simple colored glasses. The large bay of the south transept is adorned with a window of eight meters in height and four meters in width evoking the Translation of the relics from the remains of the Holy Bishop Melaine arriving at the gates of the city of Rennes by the Vilaine river while the laity and clerics prostrate himself in its passage.

rennes

The great-organs Claus from 1879. The Organ Cavaillon-Coll, former organ of the chapel of the Carmelites delivered in 1874. Transfer of the Church of Saint Aubin to the Abbey and restoration in 2011.

Saint Melaine would have played an important role in king Clovis, which he would have become the adviser. At his death between 529 and 549 his body deposited in a boat would have reached Rennes where he was buried in the cemetery in the north east of the city. A monastery would have been founded at the site of its tomb around 550. A new monastery was consecrated in 630. The abbey remains abandoned until about 937. The dynasty of the bishops of Rennes seizes the time of the abbey and  endows his daughters in dismembering the diocese the bishop withdraws to Saint-Melaine by designating as his successor his son Gautier who takes his retirement as abbot after the accession of his son Garin to the episcopate of Rennes. Saint-Melaine is finally reformed from 1058. Endowed with Abbots commendatory since the beginning of the 16C, during the collapse of the Cathedral of Rennes, the Benedictine monks oppose twice in 1740 and 1770 at the installation of the Episcopal headquarters in Saint-Melaine. The abbey was finally assembled at the Bishopric of Rennes in 1775. The cloisters of the 11C and 17C, the logis abbatial, the conventual buildings and the garden were preserved.

Tourist office of Rennes on Notre Dame en St Melaine

The Church of Toussaints (All Saints), formerly Chapel of St. Thomas, of Rennes, Baroque style counter-Reformation, located south of the Vilaine river ,by  rue du Captain-Alfred-Dreyfus. Designed from 1624 to 1651 as the Chapel of St. Thomas College, this chapel became a parish church in 1803, replacing the ancient Church of Toussaints, which was 300 meters away.

Rennes ch toussaints front oct12

A bit of history I like

A Chapel of Toussaints existed in Rennes at the end of the 10C, occupied by hermits of St Augustine and dependent on a parish established in a chapel dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalene. Its location corresponds to that of the central market halls built in 1922. The All Saints ‘ Chapel was rebuilt during the 15C and 16C, despite the collapse of the bell tower in 1482 and a tower in 1513. This one, rebuilt in the 17C, collapses again in 1715 to be rebuilt from 1764.

The municipal  Royal College of Saint-Thomas-Becket , (as middle school and future high school Émile-Zola) is founded around 1534 and moves into the buildings of the old Priory St. Thomas, near the Church of Toussaints. In 1604 the Jesuits were entrusted with the instruction until 1762. The two Chapels of the Collège ,Saint-Thomas and Saint-Marc, revealing themselves too small, the instructions given to built the Grande Chapelle Saint-Thomas  consecrated in 1651. The main altarpiece of the All Saints ‘ Church of Rennes dates from 1653.

During the French revolution, in 1789, schoolchildren and soldiers occupied the new St. Thomas Chapel on several occasions. The college became a central school in 1795 and then high school (lycée) in 1803. The seat of the parish is transferred to the Chapel of St. Thomas in 1803, which takes the name of the Church of Toussaints and is no longer attached to the school. Nevertheless, a passage from a courtyard of the same establishment remains, until the 1970’s, the only way to access the right-hand tribune overlooking the choir as the headmaster’s Tribune, reserved for the administrative staff of the school. It was restored in 1834, then in the middle of the 20C and again in 2013.  It is today the seat of the parish of Toussaints Holy Family.

Rennes

Touristi office of Rennes on Toussaints

Just two wonderful monuments while walking in delightful Rennes, the best way to see a city. It has a lot of things to see and this is just a minor contribution. Hope you enjoy the off the beaten path Churches of Rennes!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

February 24, 2019

Sept Îles or Seven Islands of the Morbihan!

So after a bit of running around the world with special feature Europe and the grand lady of them all France in terms of tourism of course (UN-WTO) I bring you back to my beloved home of the Morbihan dept 56 of Brittany. Always lovely and the 3rd most visited region by the French!

I was out with the boys in my continue quest to find new places and planning for bigger trips starting in May, I came upon the idea of going further than we have gone just south of us. Imagine only 21 kms and there are still places not seen lol! I have been to Baden but never reach the outer point of land before the gulf of Morbihan this is Sept Îles or Seven islands , and I like to tell you a bit more on the beauties of my region.

baden sept iles inner bay boats feb19

baden

Sept îles or seven Islands is a Breton island located in the Gulf of Morbihan and part of the town of Baden. It is a private island but very easy to walk around it as in all the islands of the Gulf respecting the privacy and environment. It is connected to the mainland by a tombolo of sand submerged at high tide. It is indeed a tombolo. This form of coastal cordon only exists in about ten points of the French coast. The most well-known in Morbihan is undoubtedly the one that connects the Quiberon Peninsula to Penthièvre (which we passed every weekend). More modest, Baden’s sand bank is always regularly covered by the sea and offers a beautiful postcard view of the Gulf of Morbihan.

baden

baden

You get there from Baden taking the road D316 direction Locmiquel and then the Route des Sept-Îles which will take you directly to the entrance of a beach facing the island. Only way to go these wonderful spots is by car or bike.

The beach, fragile, is protected by a stone dike on the east side. Violent currents make it dangerous by certain times as the heights of water and   certain winds can be strong. It communicates with the cove of Baden by a coastal road which allows to reach on foot the town of Baden, located 3 km, passing through megalithic tombs.

Find out about the tide schedules so you don’t have to be trapped on the island in which case the return could be done waist water deep or more! You have to know that in this place when the sea goes up, a strong current is created. The walk on the island is done with a view to 360 degrees on the Gulf of Morbihan! Whether you take the right or the left you will return to your starting point.

baden

baden

baden crossing sept iles on low tide feb19

baden

Stop on one of the small beaches of the island or on a rock to admire the Gulf of Morbihan. You will see the pointe de Blaire! The town of Locmariaquer and the entrance to the Gulf of Morbihan between Port-Navalo and the islands of Ile Er Runio or ile Le Grand Huernic. You will walk about 2 km on the Sept-Iles and if the weather and envy tells you, continue to the right of the tombolo by returning to the mainland. See my previous posts on these towns.

baden

baden sept iles l’Ile Er Runio feb19

baden sept iles l’Ile Le Grand Huernic feb19

The south side of the island is entirely surrounded by oyster parks. Between the tables, you can also reach the nearby island of Er Runio on foot.

baden

baden sept iles moules 3 feb19

baden sept iles moules 4 feb19

Opposite, at the pointe de Blaire, you see this ruin house been the remnant of a pharaoh project that has not succeeded. Built by Count Dillon at the beginning of the 20C as well as a wharf, this “Harbor House” was to be the freight station of the future great deep water port he imagined there… The idea collided with its cost, war and other ports took away the project.

baden crossing sept iles channel harbor house feb19

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here in addition to asking me are

Tourist office of Morbihan 56 on Baden and Sept îles

Tourist office of the Gulf of Morbihan on the Sept Îles

My favorite beach site Plages tv on the Sept îles beach

City of Locmariaquer on Baden and the Sept îles in French

Another wonderful escape in my beautiful department 56 of Morbihan in my beloved Brittany region of my belle France! This is Seven islands at Baden!

Oh yes I almost forgot. We need to eat gone all day so I knew of a place in town that always ask for reservations ,but try it anyway and of course it was full long line to wait, so we decided to go on foot in city center Baden looking for another. We hit a find which we are sure to be back ,this is the type of places you find in Brittany or France for that matter pure local no advertising family run but just a jewel of a cuisine!  We found the Les Kerguelen at Baden just next to the Church St Pierre. The family was very nice homey, and they have a bar cafe on street level and the restaurant in upper level; very cozy. We had lunch with few people there and had the opportunity to exchange with the owner. We had an entrée all you can eat of salads of various kinds, patês, cold cuts, fish salads, and bread/butter. The main dish we had the parmintier du canard or duck ground beef in mashed potatoes, and also spaghetti carbonara for others; all wash down with a quart of red and rosé house wine which was good. Then , the dessert was a home made apple pie or white/dark chocolate fondue for some; a plate of cheeses which we took the goat cheese and the camembert very nice and soft. Finish with a expresso coffee all for 13,30€ per person!!! Just what the family was looking for and found!  The city has a nice picture and info on the restaurant here: City of Baden on Les Kerguelen

baden les kerguelen front feb19

baden les kerguelen inside dining fl 2 feb19

 

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

 

 

February 24, 2019

Chapelle Notre Dame de la Clarté, Perros Guirec!

And as the coast is nice I continue my tour of the Côtes d’Armor dept 22 of my beloved Brittany at Perros Guirec! This is a wonderful area full of great beaches and stone creations by the coast as well as numerous monuments of great historical architectural values that I like.

Let me bring you to another jewel that having written in general before, feel it ought to have its own post. Let’s talk about the Chapelle de Notre Dame de la Clarté or Our Lady of Clarity Chapel.

Notre-Dame-de-la-Clarté is the name given to a Chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, located in the neighborhood of La Clarté in the town of Perros-Guirec in Côtes-d’Armor,dept 22 of the region of Brittany.

Perros guirec

Some of the local traditions I think are nice to tell you.

The local (costarmoricaine)  tradition of the 15C tells us that a certain lord of Barac’h, in Louannec, nearly failed with his squadron near the Sept-Îles. The mist was so thick that the sailors ‘ death seemed inevitable. All on their knees made a vow to Notre-Dame: The commander would build her a chapel if she created a saving hole in the fog. The miracle took place and the Lord of Barac’h built the Chapel of Notre-Dame de la Clarté. Much later, in August 1944, the American troops had planned to bombard Mez Gill, a camp entrenched at 200 meters from the Chapel. In retaliation, the 600 Nazis, pointing their guns at Perros, threatened to bomb the city. On August 7, 8 and 9, the mist covered Perros-Guirec preventing destruction. On August 10, the Nazis surrendered without resistance.

Perros guirec

A bit of history and architecture I like

The local tradition has always maintained that the construction of the Chapel was ordered in 1445 by Pierre de Tournemine, Sieur de Barac’h, of English descent. We can therefore say, with the departmental archives of Côtes-d’Armor, that Roland IV, founder of the Collegiate Church of Tonquédec and Lord of Ker Uzec in Pleumeur-Bodou was also the founder of the Chapel of Clarity(Clarté). At his death in Rhodes about 1470, his property passed to the Coskaër of Rosanbo, of which one of the descendants was Aline, Countess of Combourg, the sister-in-law of François-René de Chateaubriand!

Notre-Dame-de-la-Clarté Chapel belongs to the flamboyant Breton style. There are some irregularities which contribute to its originality without prejudice to harmony: a single southern transept. A square tower surmounted by a pink granite-laced steeple that seems not to be in the shape of the architectural ensemble. The Chapel is surrounded by an enclosure with a 17C granite base in its center, adorned with a wooden trunk for offerings. Further on, a cross erected in 1630. The lintel of the porch is remarkable with a representation of the Annunciation facing a Pietà, as a reminder of the prediction of the old Simeon: “You yourself, a sword will pierce your soul!” We can also see, around a window in mullions, the inscription “Le Carro”, coats of arms that have become illegible and, above, a Virgin Mother.

 Perros guirec

 Perros guirec

Paved with slabs of Brélévenez shale, arched two spans of warheads, flanked, according to tradition, by two benches of stone , the porch is worth seeing, above all, by its 17C statuary of polychrome wood, a Virgin to the Child, Saint Anne, consecrated officially Patron Saint of the Bretons, on July 26, 1914, learns to read and pray in a Bible to Ste Mary, her daughter, St. Peter, and the Four Evangelists St. Matthew in winged man, symbol of birth, St. Mark, accompanied by a lion, of the Resurrection, Saint Luke and his ox, of immolation, and Saint John in eagle, of Ascension.  On the leaves of the oak door; Saint John the Baptist carrying a sheep, Saint Peter, the key in the hand, the Virgin of the Annunciation and the angel holding in hand the scepter of power, the Virgin to the Child, and St. Paul armed with the sword, symbol of the power of the word of God expressed by his letters.

Perros guirec

The ancient descriptions describe a rood of the 15C, destroyed as most of the Breton roods in the 17C, under the pretext that they prevented the faithful from seeing the officiator. In the same way, the pulpit has now disappeared. It is facing Christ in the 15C Cross. Among the many ex-votos, one can notice, besides the traditional plates of marble, of pink or grey granite, models of boats, testimonies of dangers surmounted by their captain and their sailors.  The statues are remarkable and their diversity does not break the harmony of the ensemble. One notices in particular, in the main part, a Saint-Fiacre recognizable to his spade; a Sainte-Anne in painted wood, from the 20C,and a Saint-Yves between the rich and the poor.

Perros guirec

The altarpiece of the 18C, whose construction began in 1767, is thus described on the deed of command an untainted wooden niche in order to place the image of the Holy Virgin of Notre-Dame of Clarté in middle of the altar, with, on the right side of the so-called niche such a figure as that on the left side. The stained glass windows of the 20C.

Perros guirec

The tourist office has a bit more on this wonderful Chapel of Notre Dame of Clarity.

Tourist office of Perros Guirec on the Chapelle

This is a nice walkable neighborhood of La Clarté, and the chapel is very nice indeed, worth the detour, enjoy Perros-Guirec and the Chapelle de Notre Dame de la Clarté!

And remember, happy travels , good health, and many cheers to all!!!

February 23, 2019

St James’s Church at Perros Guirec!

And I am staying right here in lovely Côtes d’Armor dept 22 in my beloved Brittany. A world to discover, the 3rd most visited region of France by the French, just need some of you visitors to discovered it. I like to tell you about another place where I have written before in a general sense but merits a full post of its own.

Therefore, let me tell you a bit more on the église St Jacques or St James’s Church of Perros Guirec in the granite coast!

Perros guirec

The Church of Saint-Jacques is located in Perros Guirec in Cotes d’Armor dept 22 in Brittany.  In the heart of the city center, it strikes the visitor through its portal ogival adjoining a square granite tower of Ile Grande 14C, surmounted by a dome extended by a pyramidal spire in granite of the Clarté-Ploumanac’h ,17C. Raised on a hill from the end of the 11C, dedicated to Saint-Jacques (St James/Santiago), it sheltered pilgrims from the north en route to Santiago de Compostela. The South Porch 12C offers specially crafted capitals over which runs a frieze of octopuses, the only one of all the Romanesque art listed so far. The Church was enlarged in the 14C,16C, and 20C.

A bit of description and histoy I like

Massive and dark, this St James’ Church is distinguished by its strange capitals carved granite, leading to massive columns of a half-nave opening sideways by a portal to covings. From the original building, it remains the Romanesque nave and the southern porch. The ten pillars of the Romanesque nave , from 11C and 12C, feature capitals carved from Celtic or biblical motifs. In particular, the second pillar represents the arrival of Saint-Guirec in Perros. A gothic nave has come to prolong the Romanesque nave in the 14C. The square tower also dates from this period; the balustrade and the curious pyramid-boom dome are from the 17C. The two transepts were added in the 20C.

Perros guirec

Inside, you  will be able to discover a beautiful 17C altarpiece comprising nineteen finely shaped statuettes. The Church of St Jacques (St James) also contains a 12C blessed and a 14C grain measure; this measure was used to receive and evaluate grain offerings.The Romanesque nave has ten pillars with carved or carved capitals. The Romanesque nave displays beautiful arcades in full hanger with marquees richly adorned with characters, foliage, animals. A plain ceiling covers the entire Church.

 Perros guirec

The statuary, the furniture are also worthy of interest. Above the door, in the tympanum, the image of the Christ in glory, wearing a long tunic and raising his hand to bless. Around him, the eagle, symbol of St. John, and the lion, symbol of St. Mark, suggesting that on the lintel remade in the underwork, were once figured the other two evangelists, St. Luke and St. Matthew.

Perros guirec

The bell tower, with the curious spire dome which today crowns the top, is raised on the base of the tower only in the 17C. From that same 17C date the baptismal fonts, with their admirable balusters, and, behind the major altar, the Church Saint Jacques (St James) had to grow in the middle of the 20C where new arms were built at the transept and a more spacious sacristy, which opens onto the nave by an old door entourage at a noble pace.

Perros guirec

The heavy granite of the baptistery, decorated with 4 roughly carved characters, is from the 12C, from the time of the Romanesque part of the building. Saint John the Baptist, on the wall of the baptismal font is from the 17C. Saint Lawrence, in dalmatic of Deacon, his grill in hand, seems to be from the 16C. St. Catherine, crowned like a queen, is from the same time as St. Lawrence. The Pietà, at the crossroads of the Romanesque part and the Gothic part, unfortunately damaged, dates back to the end of the 16C. Saint Yves, at the same crossroads, is from the 18C, on a Romanesque base of the 12C. Christ in contempt, late 15C or early 16C, near the door of the sacristy, is worth admiring. The Virgin mother, called Notre-Dame du Foyer is from the 17C. Christ on the Cross of the beam of glory is a magnificent sculpture of the late 15C. The Saint James of the altarpiece is from the 17C as the ensemble of which it belongs.

Perros guirec

By the way, we noticed the two modern windows of the transept. The one on the left in Saint Yves. At the entrance of the choir and around the baptismal fonts, other modern stained glass windows.  The organ was created in 1996-1997. The latter has used as much as possible old techniques and traditional materials such as oak or lead.   This was a new organ, the Church of St Jacques had never had an organ.

Perros guirec

A bit more on the nice Church Saint Jacques from the tourist office of Perros Guirec.

Tourist office of Perros-Guirec on the Church

There you go another wonderful monument to visit on your rounds in the granite coast , wonderful coastal views and great beaches. Enjoy it

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

February 23, 2019

Cathedral St Etienne , Saint Brieuc

So I am back in my beloved Brittany,and why not keep you in the north of the peninsula! We have visited Saint Brieuc, can be considered an off the beaten path here, but worth the visit for its Cathedral at least me think.

Therefore, other than my general posts on Saint Brieuc, decided worth it to tell you a bit more on the St Stephen’s Cathedral of Saint Brieuc (Cathédrale St Etienne).

The Cathedral St Stephen of Saint-Brieuc (St Etienne) is in the Côtes-d’Armor dept 22 of my beloved Brittany.  It is one of the nine historic cathedrals of Brittany. It is currently the seat of the Diocese of Saint-Brieuc and Tréguier, known by this name since 1852.

Saint Brieuc

Saint Brieuc

A bit of history I like

The Gothic-style contemporary Cathedral St Etienne was built from the 13C to the 18C. Some relics of Saint Brieuc itself, dating from the 6C, are preserved there. It was built on a swamp with wooden pillars. It is one of the few fortified churches in Brittany. The “Grande Dame de Pierre” or the Big Lady of Stone, thus reflects the history of the city. Besieged, burned, the Cathedral will experience many avatars during the 14C, during the wars of succession that hit Brittany. Its restoration and extension spread throughout the 15C. The Cathedral was looted again during the Wars of Religions, and the League from 1589 to 1598.

 Saint Brieuc

A bit of chronological history is as follows: 1220, the planning of the western pediment of the Cathedral after the Cathedral of Noyon, in the Oise. Construction of the North tower. It becomes the Episcopal dungeon. By 1431-1436, construction of the South tower following the generous gift of Duke Jean V. In the 17C construction of corbelets supporting the balustrade, and completion of the nave rosette in 1728. By the time of the French revolution 1789-1794, the Cathedral serves as a warehouse and shed. In 1853, construction of a wooden hourd topped by a pyramidion. The corbelets are transformed into machicolations consoles.  The six portraits of the north side door known as the Gate of the Martray were made around 1860. Four of these portraits were sawn to allow the opening of two small doors.  in 1889, construction of the central porch.

Saint Brieuc

Some of the wonderful description of this Cathedral of St Stephen (St Etienne) to follow.

From its two towers, both with deadly features, the Brieuc tower is the lowest and the highest is the Marie tower. A century separates the construction of the two towers, 14C and 15C.  The Brieuc tower is the lowest and the Marie tower the highest. The towers are equipped with slits for archers.

Inside, do not miss the baptismal font Basin ,15C, as well as the altarpiece of the Annunciation, in the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, masterpiece of Baroque Art ,18C. The Chapel of the Annunciation, this altarpiece is considered a masterpiece of rock aesthetics in Brittany. It is one of the most beautiful wooden retables of the Côtes d’Armor, it is surmounted by a glory illustrating God the Father and the Holy Spirit. The central table of the altarpiece represents Christ alongside the angel Gabriel making the announcement to Mary.

Saint Brieuc

The great organ of the Cathedral St Etienne is a great Cavaillon of 1848, takes place in a magnificent buffet dating back to 1540. Several recumbents and tombs of the 17C and 18C are spread around. A few stations of the contemporary Way of the Cross made by the school of Fine Arts of Rennes are shown around the walls.

Saint Brieuc

Since 2009, the Cathedral St Etienne has enjoyed an important programme of works, which must be completed running 2019 with the nave. The stones are cleaned to restore their whiteness and the cement joints are replaced by traditional lime joints. The axial chapel was restored as it was in the nineteenth century: very colorful. The starry blue vaults are surrounded by repainted pillars of flowering or spiral motifs. Like the choir, it is certainly accessible to the public.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here are

Official Tourist office of the Bay of St Brieuc on the Cathedral

Official dept 22 Côte d’Armor tourism on the Cathedral

City of Saint Brieuc on heritage

There you go another nice stop in my lovely Brittany and up north in the sea coast as Côte d’Armor means  côtes as coasts and ar mor is “the sea” in the Breton language. And of course, the wonderful fortified Cathedral of St Stephen is a must stop while in town. Enjoy it

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

February 21, 2019

Some news from France, CCXXI

And here I am with the latest handn picked news of my belle France. Always something going on in the World’s most visited country!!!  The temps here is lovely sunny nice no rain, and just wonderful.  Right now is 52F or about 11C in my neck of the woods, with Paris at 62F ,about 17C and sunny.

So therefore, some of my latest tidbits on my belle France!

Final clapping for the Beverley, lol! Just news never been here , really honest. Forbidden to minors, the last cinema X of Paris  will definitely close its doors this Saturday February 23rd . At 75 years old, Maurice Laroche, owner since 1993 of this discreet establishment located 14, rue de la Ville Neuve, 2éme arrondissement, a few steps from the Grand Rex, decided to take a well-deserved retirement. Will console ourselves with the Beverley box which contains, for 60€, a DVD telling the story of the establishment, photos and a CD with the song of the house! According to the National Film Centre (CNC), after the closure of the Beverley, there will be only one X-cinema in France: the Vox in Grenoble! More here in French: https://salles-cinema.com/paris/cinema-beverley-a-paris

The martial arts enthusiast had an institution on the 15éme. A space whose tatamis have seen the training of several generations of Judokas, Aikidoka, yogis and practitioners of various martial arts: the Shiseikan Dojo,(been here as my French family are all enthusiasts of these arts)  nestled for over 70 years in the courtyard of a private building on Rue Lecourbe, will have to move or closed by September 2020. More on this nice place in Paris here:  https://dojoshiseikan.wordpress.com/

The Vincennes Racecourse, (a wonderful place to be anytime) has a date on Sunday February 24 2019. It is called the festival at the Hippodrome and puts in the spotlight this year ,Brazil. Between a capoeira dance, Batucada (Brazilian music and percussion), traditional dancers, pastries and a Portuguese-speaking carnival, families can attend the ten afternoon trotting races. Because this racecourse is the French temple of the Trotters and that it runs this Sunday the Grand Prix de Paris. A marathon, for horses, 4.1 km.  At the Hippodrome de Vincennes, 2 route de la Ferme , 12éme arrondissement. More here : https://www.vincennes-hippodrome.com/fr/

This Sunday, February 24th, 2019, your children are invited to the Château de Fontainebleau (one of my favorite castles of all of France!)  for a carnival punctuated by the reviving dance and duels with the sword. They are expected to be welcome disguised in front of the golden gate and then be trained in the arts of fencing and dance as they were practiced then. The program includes weapons courses and demonstrations of duels. The swords are of course of wood, suitable for children during animations. On the other hand, demonstrations are made in the period of time, when the weapons were actually used to injure in the duels and they were not wearing protections. The only safety of the actors is their technical mastery and their synchronization in these millimeters fencing shows. Sunday, February 24th, from 14H to 17h.  Château de Fontainebleau (Seine et Marne dept 77), Place du Général-de-Gaulle.  Admission 9€ In addition to the entrance fee to the castle (10-12€, free for under-25). On Reservation because places are limited! More here:  https://www.chateaudefontainebleau.fr/CARNAVAL-AU-CHATEAU,1505

Saturday 23 and Sunday 24 February 2019, the Ferme du Buisson in Noisiel (Seine-et-Marne dept 77) hosts a large medieval festival and heavy-metal concerts name Cernunnos Pagan Fest (noisy but good my sons are into both). The program: Scenes of reconstruction of life in medieval Scotland, initiations to traditional Celtic dances, but also ancient games, demonstrations of combat and spectacles of fires. There are even smaller ones, with make-up workshops, calligraphy, young audience shows. More info here: http://www.lafermedubuisson.com/programme/cernunnos-pagan-fest

Vintage game consoles await the nostalgic of the first emotions to the controllers. Well my sons are into it but on the modern side, this should be interesting in my wife native town) They will be at the Retrogaming play on 23 and 24 February 2019 in Meaux (Seine-et-Marne dept 77). RGC (Retro-gaming Connexion), Replay and Chezmoa associations return on February 23rd (Friday) and 24th(Saturday)  for retro gaming Play 2019. The retro and alternative video game festival will launch its 2nd edition at the Meaux Coliseum to promote the videogame heritage and the history of the video game, always in the same desire for sharing and conviviality.  https://www.rom-game.fr/agenda/3227-Retro+Gaming+Play+2019.html

Michael Bunel is a photo-reporter born in Saint-Germain-en-Laye (Yvelines dept 78). For several years he has been walking the world’s roads to trace the path of exiles fleeing conflict zones. His work is exposed at the La Cle. Interesting to see the other side on the people’s side. More here:   https://www.saintgermainenlaye.fr/en/111-1269/fiche/la-clef-exposition-michael-bunel-exil.htm

New metro lines, new stations, 200 km new tracks. The Grand Paris Express is the urban project that will change the landscape of Paris in 2030 (they needed too overcrowded but do not think this will help much ). Seven teams of architects responsible for building the 68 new stations have been associated with artists who must design original creations. Each metro station will have its own works of art! To create a large collection of works, such as a museum of the twenty-first century open to all audiences. More here :  https://www.societedugrandparis.fr/gpe/le-grand-paris-express-en-resume

It happens that the city of Paris has decided to put a clean coup on the Regional Express network of Île-de-France region, with these new RER  “New Generation”. The RER project  “NG ” could well change the lives of the RER D and E passengers, who were seriously starting to rust rails (this will help these lines often overlook for the more glamorous ones such as A and B). These new trains will accommodate up to 1860 people, with 600 seats spread over two floors. These new RER, without separation between cars to optimize the space, will show an exceptional comfort, because this is where the whole issue lies for the manufacturers. So air conditioning and USB ports will be available to you. Spaces with and without seats for short trips, as well as more comfortable spaces including only seats for longer trips. As for the ends of the train, they will be reserved for strollers, wheelchair users and travelers with suitcases. More info here:   https://www.iledefrance-mobilites.fr/actualites/le-futur-rer-dile-de-france-se-devoile/

There you short and sassy as they said. Hope you enjoy it the runs of my news entries ,and thank you for your support.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

 

February 19, 2019

The strawberry museum of Plougastel-Daoulas!

And here we are in lovely historical Plougastel-Daoulas in the Finistére dept 29 of my beloved Brittany. So much beauty of architecture and history abound us here,and for a change will not repeat the introduction as on the previous two posts and will tell you about something unique and different you can find here.

It is the Musée de la Fraise & du Patrimoine; right in city center.  Sort of the Heritage and Strawberry museum a lovely place right around the main sights in town. The strawberry has a long history here. However, the museum is much recent.

Plougastel Daoulas

The adventure begins in 1980 with the creation of the association “Friends of the heritage of Plougastel”. In December 1985, the municipality acquired the “Nicolle House“. The objectives were initially to conservation action, pedagogical action and tourism action. From 1990, the House of heritage is growing, seeing an extension to be built. Two years later, in 1992, the Museum of Heritage opens in its entirety. In 1995, the museum became the Museum of Strawberry and Heritage as it is today.

Plougastel Daoulas

The heritage of Plougastel is presented through the costumes, its furniture, its architecture and its agricultural history. The strawberry, emblematic and inseparable from the peninsula of Plougastel, is put in the spotlight.  Today, the museum consists of nine showrooms on two levels, presenting the history of the strawberry from the 18C to the present day and all the particularities of the heritage of the peninsula of Plougastel

The first floor tells you the history of the strawberry and the commerce with Europe, especially England. From types of strawberries to harvesting, collecting, and packaging as well as shipping it. It tells you the strawberries here are the local variety and the white strawberry brought all the way from Chile in South America. And yes the strawberries here are the best, we buy them in all kinds of versions yoghurts are great!

Plougastel Daoulas

The second floor or 1er étage here, tells you about the traditions , customs of the local Breton families and paintings/objects of arts depicting the life and time of the area and the strawberry harvesters.

Plougastel Daoulas

You can taste them in the boutique below where you will find very nice objects dedicated to the strawberry. We got our jams and tea flavor strawberry. The welcome is very friendly and informative and the family trip is wonderful; especially as it involves food lol!

The official webpage is here: Strawberry museum of Plougastel-Daoulas

Tourist office of Brittany on the Strawberry museum

Tourist office of Finistére dept 29 on the Strawberry museum

The planting here goes way back . The first variety cultivated on a large scale was the “Strawberry of Chile”, because it was brought from Chile, South America,  later supplanted by new varieties such as the “Pineapple Strawberry”, then the “Royal Princess”, also known as “Strawberry of Angers”, then by the “Strawberry of the Mayenne”. Enjoy it

Another nice different stop in my lovely Brittany at Plougastel-Daoulas. You will do good to stop by indeed.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

February 19, 2019

Calvary at Plougastel-Daoulas!

So let’s continue our journey in the Finistére dept 29 of my beloved Brittany. And of course, why not sticking to the same town of Plougastel-Daoulas. I like to repeat the introduction to the town from previous post here

Plougastel-Daoulas is in the dept 29 of Finistère in Brittany/Bretagne. It is a town in the Brest harbor, located on a peninsula in the southeast of the city, which is separated by the mouth of the Élorn. The town is part of the former bishopric of Cornouaille. Plougastel-Daoulas remained very isolated, the Élorn being an obstacle to its relations with the Bishopric of Leon and especially with Brest. Before the construction of the Albert-Louppe Bridge in 1930, only one ferry allowed to cross the estuary starting from the place called the Passage to lead to a place of the same name located on the current town of Relecq-Kerhuon. The WWI painfully strikes Plougastel, which accounts for 212 deaths during this conflict. In  1944, a parachute unit of the 3rd Parachute Fighter Regiment, was parachuted into the Plougastel-Daoulas area as part of Operation Derry to open the way to the 8th US Army Corps, commanded by General Troy Middleton, responsible for taking Brest, to support the local resistance and to avoid the destruction of the Plougastel bridge. The Task force  “B ” continued its advance and showing a very high attack power clearing the Plougastel Peninsula on August 30, 1944.

The must to see here is the Calvary one of the seven jewels calvaries of Brittany. It is magnificent,and along worth the detour to this nice town of Plougastel-Daoulas.

Plougastel Daoulas

The calvary of Plougastel-Daoulas dates from 1602-1604 and its about 10 meters high. On a yellow granite base of Logonna-Daoulas, about 182 statues carved in blue Kersanton stone, the larger ones measure one meter and weigh from 100 to 200 kg. They illustrate, in 28 paintings, biblical scenes of the life of Christ or legendary scenes such as Katel Kollet. It is one of the seven great Calvaries of Brittany. The octagon that forms the core of the basement is 1.70 meters apart.  A 14-step staircase near the northwestern foothills provides access to the central platform where the preacher was once installed. It was erected as a result of the plague epidemic of 1598. This is a religious ensemble which is unique of Brittany. This one is one of the best around. The stairs on the northwest side allowing to go inside where the predicator is illuminated.

Plougastel Daoulas

Plougastel Daoulas

This is a tremendous beautiful gorgeous magnificent calvary that is a must see even passing just for it is good. My best in the region simple yet detailing of such love and history of Christ. The original date is under the statue of Christ. There is the Nativity, the flight to Egypt, the Last Supper, and the washing of the feet. The great drama of the passion then unfolds in an army of actors among different groups of statuettes. One is the one depicting the triumphal entry of Jesus Christ in Jérusalem. It is dominated by three large crosses in the center.  Destroyed during the period of the terror (French revolution), it was restored again after the liberation after been damaged during the siege of Brest in WWII.

Plougastel Daoulas

Plougastel Daoulas

Again some webpages to help you plan your trip here and it is a must are

Official 7 calvaries of Brittany on Plougastel

Tourist office of Brest on the Calvary of Plougastel

Tourist office of Brittany on heritage of Plougastel

Tourist office of Finistére dept 29 on calvary of Plougastel

There you go, this one is a must to visit I said… on a wonderful city of the Finistére dept 29 Plougastel-Daoulas.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

February 18, 2019

Church of St Pierre , Plougastel-Daoulas!

And I sticking around the area to take you to another off the beaten path of my lovely Brittany. This time is a wonderful town of many nice memories for my family. We first came to Plougastel-Daoulas on a rainy day and had lunch where we met the owners and try a delicious African chicken dish from Senegal. To our surprise the city is full of memorable places to see and it must be seen.

Plougastel-Daoulas is in the dept 29 of Finistère in Brittany/Bretagne. It is a town in the Brest harbor, located on a peninsula in the southeast of the city, which is separated by the mouth of the Élorn. The town is part of the former bishopric of Cornouaille. Plougastel-Daoulas remained very isolated, the Élorn being an obstacle to its relations with the Bishopric of Leon and especially with Brest. Before the construction of the Albert-Louppe Bridge in 1930, only one ferry allowed to cross the estuary starting from the place called the Passage to lead to a place of the same name located on the current town of Relecq-Kerhuon. The WWI painfully strikes Plougastel, which accounts for 212 deaths during this conflict. In  1944, a parachute unit of the 3rd Parachute Fighter Regiment, was parachuted into the Plougastel-Daoulas area as part of Operation Derry to open the way to the 8th US Army Corps, commanded by General Troy Middleton, responsible for taking Brest, to support the local resistance and to avoid the destruction of the Plougastel bridge. The Task force  “B ” continued its advance and showing a very high attack power clearing the Plougastel Peninsula on August 30, 1944.

The parish Church of St. Peter, once a priory dependent on the abbey of Daoulas, dating from the 15C, but then too small, was destroyed in 1870 and replaced by a Church of Flamboyant Gothic style at a site of a Chapel.  The initiative probably comes back to the Lords of Léon and the family of Rohan. The Church was completed in 1623 with a 28 meters high bell tower in a round turret containing the staircase to access the bells.  A Renaissance porch is added between 1640 and 1650. It was destroyed by WWII  and it was rebuilt with the bell tower done with concrete. However ,some items do remain such as the descend of the Cross and two retables one of Saint-Peter ,and the other of a Rosary.

Plougastel Daoulas

plougastel

The first that you see upon coming to town is the Church of Saint Peter rising above the place de l’église, monumental front and great bell tower. It was rebuilt as it is today in 1950.  The current Church was rebuilt in cross–shaped, style  with a recessed Spire, a nave of five bays with aisles, a crossroads with lantern and wings at the center of which is the choir, then another nave of three bays with aisles terminated by a right chevet. The Church of the 19C has retained a beautiful retable of the Rosary (dated 1654-1656) and topped by an altar the tomb of 16C of the Fallen Christ. The modern altar, made with marble of Mayenne dedicated in 1957.  There is a path of modern cross and the baptismal fonts from the 12C. The Church houses a statue of St. Peter and a Pietà.

Plougastel Daoulas

Plougastel Daoulas

Plougastel Daoulas

A lovely ensemble around the main square of the town, the Church, (calvary next and strawberry museum afterward). A great day for the whole family on a lovely traditional Breton town, and it was here that we first heard the Breton language spoken by folks in the restaurant!!

Some general webpages to help you plan your trip here are

Tourist office of Brittany on Plougastel-Daoulas

Tourist office of Finistére dept 29 on Plougastel

city of Plougastel on heritage

There you go enjoy a nice Church St Pierre in an nice town off the beaten path and trails of coastline to fall in love with!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

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