November 16, 2018

Some streets of Versailles!!!

So in my ongoing efforts to bring you to Versailles as a destination and to help the recent survey of the city of Versailles that claims that 98% of visitors to the city only come to see the castle,pity; let me tell you a bit more about some streets in my beloved Versailles!

The city is a treasure vault of historical, architectural wonders and the best way is to walk it; the city is not big, easily walkable. It might be a bit long but I think is worth telling you about my old home town. So, here are some of the ones I like the most, just the most as all are worth the detour. VERSAILLES! Hint below my neighborhood of old.

Versailles

Rue Colbert. Named after Jean-Baptiste Colbert who was one of the principal ministers of king Louis XIV . He developed the French colonial factories and companies. At  N 1: Hotel de Grammont until 1809.  N  5, Hotel de Villacerf, property at the end of the 19C of Prince Roland Bonaparte.  N 7 former Hotel of Choiseul, then of Villeroy, which housed in 1870-71 the Prussian minister of War and his services.  N 13: Current EDF, (electricity company in France) location of the former hotel of Aumont under the old regime and home of Charles-Frédéric Nepveu, architect of the château under Louis-Philippe, at the end of his life. One of the streets very close to the Castle across from the Royal Chapel.

Versailles

Rue Georges Clemenceau ;  Old rue Saint-Pierre et du  Vermandois in 1684 until the kennel. There was a fountain there.  The name of the French politician , nicknamed “The Tiger” and the “Father of the Victory”, who was president of the Council from 1906 to 1909 and from 1917 to 1920.  The street extends through the place André-Mignot, former Place de la Vénérie-Royale , then the Tribunaux. N  2: Hotel disappeared from the Louveterie (under the reign of Louis XIV).  No. 5 and No. 7: Current Monoprix convenient dept store. At the entrance to the wonderful  passage Saint-Pierre at N 19: Former property of the Lambinet family, (Jean-François was mayor of Versailles in 1848) who gave his name to the museum of the same name and city of Versailles museum located on Avenue de la Reine. This disect the Avenue de Paris and the Avenue de Saint Cloud, and great for shopping at Monoprix! and the Post Office but as you can see nice buildings even here too.

versailles

And closer to home base, this is the Rue Carnot , the former Rue de la Pompe  (pump) name due to the water tower, built in 1665 to No. 7 house which fed at the beginning of the reign of Louis XIV the reservoir of the Cave of Tethys from the pond of Clagny. The pumping was done with a horse wagon ride.  It was later named after the President of the French Republic Sadi Carnot. He was assassinated by the Italian anarchist Santa Geronimo Caserio. At  N  1: Carnot Elementary School. Former Hotel de Noailles, owned by the family of the Marquis de La Fayette’s wife who stayed there. Acquired by the city in 1867. N  2 a false Cellar door with a bird (a magpie).  N  2a  Neoclassical facade. Former property of Antoine Gibus, a hat maker ,from 1862 to 1870 (his name designates a top hat), then more recently René Aubert President of the Académie de Versailles.  No. 5: Stables of King Louis XIV in 1672, then of the Queen and the Dauphine; Prison in the French revolution, then barracks of the Queen’s Quarter and today Court of Appeal of Justice. N  6: Former hotel of the Duc de Bouillon,  N 10: Entrance of the stables of Monsieur, Duke of Orléans (brother of King Louis XIV).  N° 11: Facade of the Pavilion of the Springs (House of the caretakers) built in 1683 with drinking water reservoir for the city. The water was derived from the sources of the towns of Rocquencourt and Chesnay. N  12: Old hotel of Duras and Montmorency, then Bath spa Hotel.  N 40: Former Hôtel de la Roche or Royal Pavilion (family whose members were caretakers of the menagerie).  N 44: Former Café Amaury at the corner of the Avenue de Saint-Cloud, in 1789 place of meeting of the Breton Club (the third State) from where the Club des Jacobins of Paris came out. Find me one, from rue Carnot entering the passage antiques of the rue des Deux Portes!

Versailles rue Carnot to rue de deux portes 2013

Back closer to the castle and one of my favorite street that loved to walked many times is the Rue des Reservoirs . Created in 1672, the old street of the trough located at the entrance of the Rue de la Paroisse. The name of the reservoirs of the castle built in 1685 and now extinct due to the construction of the north wing of the castle. They were located above Madame de Pompadour’s hotel.  At  N  2-4: Hotel of the government (of the Governor of Versailles), former Hotel of Louvois built in 1672, renovated in 1778. Attributed to the Ministry of War in 1834. In 2015, rehabilitation of public offices in private housing.  N 6: Hôtel Ecquevilly  named after the captains of the Hunters of Saint-Germain.  N  7 Hotel of Reservoirs built  at the beginning of the 20C. It replaced the private mansion of Madame de Pompadour and the one in the king’s storage room. The aerial pump of water from the reservoirs was located before 1750 here. It was the Government Hotel from 1765 to 1789 before knowing several owners and being bought by the State in 1934 and assigned to the castle. N  8 former Hotel de Sérent rebuilt.  N 9-11 Hotel du Garde-Meuble de la Couronne (or wardrobe of the Crown) built in 1784 . It housed the prefecture of Seine-et-Oise from 1800 to 1867. Rehabilitation in 2015 in apartments of standing with underground parking. N  13 Théâtre Montansier,(gorgeous a must to see), current Theater Municipal de Versailles, built in 1776 by Mademoiselle de Montansier, founder and director of numerous Parisian theatres (including those of the Palais-Royal and the Variétés).  This courtyard and City Theater was created by Marguerite Brunet, known as “De Montansier” who was the director of performances in the aftermath of the court. It was inaugurated in the presence of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette in 1777. It is distinguished by its entirely round room and its blue and gold decor.  N  16: Hotel of the family of the Trémoïlle (duke of Thouars) put on sale after the French revolution now not well kept. N 19: (at the intersection with the Rue de la Paroisse), building where Ferdinand de Lesseps was born in 1852.  N 21 house where Blaise de Jouvencel lived  former mayor of Versailles.  N  22 Hôtel de Condé where lived and died Jean de La Bruyère  and was born General Gaspard Gourgaud, a memorialist of Napoleon. Now Seventh-day Adventist Church.  N  27: (at the intersection with the Boulevard de la Reine), a building where the painter Henri-Eugène le Sidaner lived .  N 36: Former Hotel Vatel, one of the best restaurants of Versailles in 1900, disappeared in the 1980’s.

Versailles

And this one is hotter still , very close to my home. And a must to walk by as it is close to the Castle but also the Notre Dame market! As well as the historical significant Notre Dame Church (back was my home area!). The Rue de la Paroisse; this one is the one I cross most often at home. Filled with the sandy lands of the summit of the Butte de Montbauron under Louis XIV. At  N 1: Location of the trough removed with the drying of the pond of Clagny from 1770, then land acquired by Soufflot architect of the Pantheon and now the Notre Dame market. N  7a: House of the lawyer Albert Joly in 1869.  N  11: Hotel Pièche from the beginning of the 18C with facade ornaments of the late 19C. Jean-Joseph Pièche was a musician from the King’s chamber. See the dogs seated and the garlands of flowers carved between the windows. He would have seen Rameau and Boucher pass. It was restored between the two wars.  N  3-5-7-7bis-11-21,facades of houses established in the 18C.  N  15 House with the sign of the royal mark in the 18C.  N  32:19C cast-iron balcony guardrail. N  35: Notre-Dame Church created in 1686.  N  37-39-41 former House of the mission of Notre-Dame (1686); Order founded by Saint-Vincent-de-Paul.  N 43: Supposedly the house of Dionis surgeon of Louis XIV.  N 49: House of Félix de Tassy, surgeon of Louis XIV .N  53 Hotel de Bretagne, house of Guy Fagon, surgeon of Louis XIV (or the name of Saint-Côme patron of Surgeons, formerly attributed to this portion of street).  N 63: House at the Grande Fontaine, by the name of Fontaine, the public works contractor who resided there under Louis XIV.  N  79 building with the sign of the Rising Sun. Birth House of the poet Jean-François Ducis.  N  2 and 4 House of the caretakers built under Louis XVI.  At No. 4 lived Joseph-Adrien Le Roi, head of Clinic at the hospice and historian of the Streets of Versailles (1860).  N  6-6 bis 8-10  Hôtel de Saxena: stable of the Dauphine mother of Louis XVI, then Hotel de Berry belonging to the Comte de Provence. N  28: Restaurant of the Comte de Toulouse.  N  32 In 1811, owned by the wife of Etienne Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire , zoologist at the Natural History Museum.. No.14 or 15 Location of Madame de Maintenon  charitable home, rebuilt in 1772. N 108: Former property of Jean-Baptiste Farrugia, geographer of the Ministry of War who had the two balconies built in 1783, bearing his initials and the motto “Fidem Fortuna Coronat” or Fortune Rewards Fidelity   N  110, 19C cast iron balcony guardrail.  N  112, in 1734 Auberge Au roi Charlemagne  cabaret in Versailles.

Versailles

And one very popular , we all cross it  walk it and things to do , the grand the beautiful and read some tidbits of it that it will worth your time to pass by and see or go into.  Avenue de Paris, because it went from the castle to the Louvre entering Paris by the Avenue de Versailles approprialy ::)

Avenue de Paris created in 1682, the central axis of the Trident set up by Jules Hardouin-Mansart (Sceaux, Paris, Saint Cloud). One of the widest avenues of France (97 meters). The avenue was planted with a double mail of elms then replaced by sycamore trees due to elm disease.

Versailles

you see at No. 1: Grande Ecurie (stables)  of the king.  Now houses the city’s Archives  open (Consultation room) from Tuesday to Friday from 14h to 17h45 amongst many others see other post.  The reason why it is shown in the Avenue de Paris, as the Petite Ecurie done to the Place d’Armes. N 2 bis: Old Porch (Pullman Hotel) remains of the artillery barracks created by Napoleon III (see the N of Napoleon on the entrance door and the Napoleonic Eagle on the entrance to the  Avenue du General-de-Gaulle). The barracks was destroyed in 1988 to make way for the shopping district of the Les Ménages (where you can buy tickets for the Château).Also, around the  tourist office of Versailles , open from Tuesday to Saturday from 9h to 18h, on Sundays and Mondays from 11h to 17h.  N  3: central Post Office building .  N ° 4 Hôtel de Ville  (city/town hall)  of Versailles, ( a must to visit you can) former hotel of the Princess of Conti (Marie-Anne de Bourbon, daughter of Louis XIV and the Marquise de Lavaliere), and then of the Grand masters of the castle. The lower part overlooking the avenue of General de Gaulle dates from the reign of Louis XIV and was the first city/town hall. The more imposing part, Neo Louis XIII style and overlooking the Avenue de Paris, dated 1897-1900.  The gardens of the city/town hall perpetuate and renew the tradition of the mosaiculture.  N  6: Carved portal of the Hotel des gendarmerie de la garde de Louis XV, built in 1737 , barracks until 1908 and current departmental department of Tax Services restored in 2014. Concentrate in its upper part, mainly around the bull’s eye, the carved decor is made up of military trophy falls (with armour and helmets of wars), garlands of flowers, fins and shells, whose finesse and richness make it a masterpiece of  rocaille stone art. It bears the motto of the gendarmes of the guard of the King: “Quo Jubet iratus Jupiter” or where Jupiter furiously orders.  N 11-13 Prefecture of Versailles (dept government of Yvelines). Succeeding in 1792 at the Vénerie (the King’s hunting kennel) and at the narrow rue des Reservoirs, the former hotel of the department, then prefecture in 1800,  was inaugurated in 1867. The prefecture was occupied in 1870 by the King of Prussia and his staff, then by Adolphe Thiers, Mac-Mahon and Jules Grevy as hotel of the Presidency of the French Republic until 1879. The prefecture and the Yvelines General Council have been occupying the premises since 1880.  N  15: School of Music founded by Emile Cousin in 1878 (then transferred to Rue de Jouvencel).  N 19: Police hotel in place of the old monumental stables of the Countess du Barry mistress of Louis XV, built in 1772, then owned by the Comte de Provence brother of Louis XVI , and himself later Louis XVIII, who changed them with the architect J. Chalgrin . The buildings housed the lancers of Napoleon’s Imperial Guard who were killed in Waterloo, then the Montbauron barracks. They are now home to the police station. N  21: The old hotel of the Countess du Barry, built in 1751, and today Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Val d’Oise (95) and Yvelines(78) since 1937.

Versailles

N ° 22 the hotel Menus Plaisirs. This hotel was raised by Louis XV and occupied by the administration of the Menus-Plaisirs between 1739 and 1745. It housed the workshops of sets and the material of the Games and shows related to the festivities of the King and the court. A provisional room hosted the assembly of Notables in 1787-88, and finally the deputies summoned to the States General on May 5, 1789 by the King. It was in this room that the abolition of privileges and the declaration of Human and Citizen Rights were voted on. It was bought and demolished in 1800. The hotel became a cavalry barracks, then the technical services of the city were lodged from 1942 to 1988. Since 1987, it houses the Center of Baroque Music of Versailles which produces concerts and shows in France and abroad and brings together a research center and a singing school.  Go up the stairs to the bottom of the courtyard to discover the location of the room of the General States. On the right pillar of the entrance Avenue de Paris the elevation of the place at 130 meters is carved into the stone.  No. 28: Prison for women. It was installed in 1789 at the site of a former boarding school built in 1750. Then the state bought it in 1857 and enlarged the place in 1860.  The prison for men is located in Bois D’Arcy since 1980.   N  31: Lycée Jean-de-la-Bruyère, (high school) named after the moralistic writer who died in Versailles in 1696. It was named in 1962.  In 1880, Miss Arnaud created a secular school for girls at this site (on land formerly belonging to the Countess du Barry), which became municipal and then owned by the state in 1906.  N 38-40: Chamber of Notaries. Hotel of the time of Louis XVI.  N 63 Pavillon de Provence, former residence of Monsieur, brother of the king and king Louis XVIII was born here. From 1922 to 1940, the abode housed the eastern Normal School of Daughters of the Universal Israelite Alliance. From 1946 to 1962, it was taken over by the children’s relief work and welcomed Elie Wiesel, the Nobel Peace Prize in 1986.  N 68: Convent of Solitude belonging to the Sisters of Notre-Dame du Cénacle. This building associated with an English park of the late 17C, reworked in the 19C, belonged to the Earl of Vergennes, Minister of Foreign Affairs of Louis XVI from 1775 to 1787.  N  70: Lycée Marie Curie, (high school) named after the French physicist and chemist, of Polish origin, who received twice the Nobel Prize for her research on radiation and radium in 1903 and 1911. N  73 Domaine de Madame Elizabeth. Owned by the community of Célestins monks, having been redeemed and built by the Prince and Princess of Rohan-Guéméné, then by Louis XVI, it was given as a gift to his sister who was later guillotined in 1792. Manufacture of watchmaking at the French revolution.  The Yvelines General Council bought it in 1983 as well as the Orangerie in 1997.  In 2016, the park designed in the English way before the revolution, allows to appreciate a remarkable collection of native and exotic forest species such as American oak, purple beech, lime tree, sycamore trees etc, a garden of aromatic plants and demonstrations of permaculture and a pet park. N  89 Reliefs above the door of the Vauban School, made in 1957; They represent Le Nôtre and Vauban.  N 90 bis: Old ponds where the stream of Madame Elisabeth’s English park was poured. Then replaced by a rose garden in the Truffaut nurseries, then by the residence of the Roseraie.

Versailles

Versailles

At N 93: Robert de Montesquiou-Fezensac , one of the personalities of the Literary and Social Society of the late 19C, was a tenant from 1894. In particular, he received Marcel Proust and Sarah Bernhardt.  N  107: Maison Saint-Joseph.  N  109-109 bis: Congregation of the Servant Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Jesus.  N  111 Parc Chauchard with the picturesque and vast music pavilion of Madame, Countess of Provence, sister-in-law of Louis XVI and wife of Louis XVIII, built around 1780. This pavilion is associated with a small enclosed rectangular garden at the end of which is the statue of Alfred Chauchard. Madame’s park was cut in two in the French revolution, one that later became the Lycée Sainte-Geneviève (1913 high school), the other for several successive owners, including the last Alfred Chauchard, founder of the department stores of the Louvre in Paris, which was the place for his most deserving workers who became owners in 1902.  At the entrance to the street you have two pavilions of the Grille d’Octroi or passage of taxes  of neoclassical architecture, set up in 1824 and  were closed in 1943. The right-hand building on the way to Paris was reserved for the caretakers and the left to collect the rights to the goods brought into the city. Around it you have the square or Place Louis XIV, and here finishes the Avenue de Paris on the edge of the town of Viroflay.

Versailles

So here is a little bit of my beloved Versailles, a town full of history of France and the world, that needs more personal and up close attention by you all. Like I said, Versailles is a lot more than the castle!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

ps. And I say goodbye for a week on business assignment in Asia: cheers!

 

 

November 16, 2018

La Ferme de Gally or farm of Gally!

Ok so now in a gloomy foggy day of 15C in my beautiful Morbihan, and Paris not much different, i will dwell into my beloved area of Versailles ; many things to see and seldom bypassed.

When my boys were younger we came here often , it was a nice way to get away from Versailles into the countryside. We had petting farm, gardening, collect of fruits, and history all around with the still standing gate of Gally that went into the back of the Castle of Versailles (if you are inside the castle property this is way back beyond the Grand Canal you can do walks there still just far back)  ,where we used to do our jogging and playing with the boys as well. Oh those wonderful younger days..! I still found one personal photo

Saint Cyr l'ecole

I like to tell you a bit on this wonderful Ferme de Gally or Gally’s farm in Saint Cyr l’Ecole just off Versailles.

The farm of Gally is located at the western end of the park of the Château de Versailles. It is about  3 km from the castle. The farm of  Gally is located between the l’Etoile Royale (in the north), the Allée Royal de  Villepreux, and the Porte de Maintenon  at Bailly (south).

You can come here better with a car but if in Versailles bus line 17 of Transdev  takes you close, Ligne 17 in about 17 minutes from the Versailles Rive Droite train station (closest to my neighborhood) on Maréchal Foch direction Grille de Maintenon you get off here and walk just a couple minutes to the farm entrance on Route de Saint-Cyr. By car take the Route de Versailles,  D10 along the Orangerie on your right and the pièce d’eau des Suisses on your left, and continue direction Saint Cyr l’Ecole until the junction with the D7 road still direction St Cyr l’Ecole and you will see the panels for the farm on your right hand side in 6 km! from in front of the Castle.

There are 3 boutiques now and many more but I will concentrate on the original and my fav place to go egg hunting in Easter with the boys or just shopping there and collecting fruits and vegetables by hand ! As well as a small petting farm with domestic animals! The one in Saint-Cyr-l’École  is at Route de Bailly (D7).  Open from Monday to Sunday without interruption from 9h30 to 19h. Open during school holidays and holidays at regular times. And the nice Café gally entrance at Rue du Doctor Vaillant (D7) . This is in the Yvelines dept 78 of the Ïle de France region.

Saint cyr l'ecole

A bit of history I like

Gally is first of all the history of the Laureau family, a farmer here  since 1746. And at this time purveyors to the kings at Versailles. Today, brothers Dominique and Xavier Laureau, the custodians of the transmitted know-how, have diversified their traditional activities and bring their expertise in the field of plants in the service of individuals and companies.

The name of Gally would refer to the quality of the soils in the vicinity of the brook now the stream of Gally and the marshy area that was Versailles before the clearing for the castle.  The brook which takes its source in the Grand Canal of Versailles and which runs off to the west of the Plain of Versailles.

Gally’s farm was first a priory, attached to the abbey of Sainte-Geneviève in Paris. The earliest written record recorded to date on the existence of the Priory of Gally comes from a bull of Pope Alexander III, written in 1163. In 1663 and 1675, king  Louis XIV, residing at the Château de Versailles, encompassed the lands of Trianon and Musseloue, redeemed from the Abbaye de Sainte-Geneviève. Gally’s Farm then entered the royal estate while the king arranged the surroundings of the small park. The entire land of the Gally farm became the property of the king in 1684, when Abbé Emanuel de Sainte-Geneviève sold the remaining 319 ares.

In 1806, Napoleon I , bought the estate of Gally, after having set up the conservation of the Royal estate. As a result, Gally’s farm experiencing a revival in its agricultural operation, especially since the royal hunting no longer prevented agricultural work.

New buildings have appeared over the centuries, depending on the needs of the time and the wishes of the different owners. According to the experts’ estimates some buttresses and columns could date from the 10C. The shepherd’s house dates from the 11C.  The west façade of the farmhouse corresponds to the priory and dates from the late 11C or early 12C. The skylights and some buttresses date back to the 13C.  The sheep herd dates from the 15C. The old barn dates back to the 17C.  Gally’s farm remains to this day one of the oldest built ensembles, still active in this part of the west of Paris.

Today, the farm is divided into 4 sectors of activity: self-service harvesting of more than 40 ha composed of an orchard and a vegetable garden; The “Open Farm”, an educational farm allowing children to approach and familiarize themselves with animals (cows, horses, pigs, chickens, ducks, goats) and discover nature through fun and practical workshops (making juice of apples, bread and butter, extraction of honey from the hive, work around animal footprints, gardening sessions); Finally a garden center. You can also buy fresh products at the shop, where you find a coffee, which of course only cooks products from the farm. One can finally participate in cooking courses, or for the younger ones to organize there its birthday. An original address very popular in the beautiful days.

Some additional webpages to help you plan your trip here are

Official Ferme de Gally

Official Gally’s group more on Gardening

Official La Cueillette or fruit veggies picking at Gally

Tourist office of Paris on Ferme de Gally

There you go a nice side trip from Versailles and you thought it is only the castle right ! There is a whole world to discover in Versailles and surrounding royal areas indeed. Hope you enjoy it ,good for the entire family.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

November 16, 2018

Place Hoche, Versailles!

So here we are in another week moving right along in November and waiting for another long trip to Asia. I have to come back to my gorgeous historical Royal and Imperial Versailles. Not enough credit living on the shadows of Paris and tourism mayhem. However, is better i say so huh! And no, it is not a thing to do from Paris, it is on its own thank you.

Ok ok, I am biased, even thus work in Paris for several years and visit often, I used to Lived in VERSAILLES for almost 10 glorious years! It will always be in my mind. One more reason why I think buddy papa Hemingway was short as he should had written a second volume on France is a movable feast !

Ok so enough of my propaganda lol! Let me tell you up close and personal about a square, street very close to me where I spent all those wonderful years. Bear with me!

The Place Hoche sits in the middle of the street of the same name that has a direct view from the Notre Dame Collegiate Church pass the square and pass Avenue Nepvue then into Avenue Rockefeller and  into the Place d’Armes in front of the Castle/Museum of Versailles. One of the most pleasant walks to do in my Versailles and plenty of architectural and tidbits historical facts along the way.  Welcome to my Versailles, the Royal and Imperial city of France. A fact, if the French constitution needs to be modified, change, altered in any way, the entire French government needs to deliberate here including the President, making Versailles the de facto capital of France by Constitutional rights.

Versailles

Located in the heart of the Notre-Dame district, the place Hoche is marked by history, and part of these squares of Versailles laden with history and ignored wrongly by visitors/tourists. As said in previous posts, the city of Versailles conducted a survey on visitors and found that 98% only come here for the Castle/museum only!!!  Located in the perspective of the Notre-Dame Church, it was drawn up in 1671 and was at the time called Place Dauphine. It was the first in France to adopt an octagonal shape. It shows well as to the trio of Avenues  Sceaux, Paris and Saint-Cloud  that linen up from the Castle into the city, for the appeal of the king for a thoughtful planning.

You will find looking carefully at the square at No 4 a former hotel Jacques Bénigne Bossuet , Bishop of Meaux and preceptor of the Grand Dauphin in 1674 as well as advisor that became known as the Eagle of Meaux  (dept Seine et Marne 77 my dear late wife Martine birthplace). And it was the building of the local  Chamber of Notaries in 1832.  At No 6 you see the Hotellerie de la Belle Image (beautiful Image), where in 1783 or 85 , the Countess of La Motte had an appointment with the Cardinal de Rohan to be handed over the necklace of Queen Marie Antoinette who had never ordered the jewel. The scam was discovered shortly thereafter, under the restoration of the Café des Gondoles. At No 7 you will see the residence of the architect who created the Théâtre Montansier, Jean-François Heurtier. The northeast corner of the square accommodates a hotel built in 1769, whose façade with the mention “to the Queen of France” is one of the most remarkable of the square. It was the home of Jean-François Heurtier also inspector General of the buildings of the king. At No 9: house of Jacques Rayer, Cook to the General Common, then in 1869  to the chief medical officer of the Hospital of Versailles and his son-in-law the historian Emile Bourgeois, member of the Institute de France.

Another peculiarity of the square, it allows Versailles to find shade under its large chestnut trees, identified among the remarkable tree of the town alongside the sycamores of the city/town hall.

At the center of this square is the statue of Lazare Hoche, General at the age of 25 and famous citizen of Versailles. Louis Lazare Hoche, born June 24, 1768, at 18 ,rue de Satory. He died on 19 September 1797 in Wetzlar,Hesse (Germany). He is buried in Weißenthurm, a small town near Koblenz.  The place of the monument General Hoche there is called  “Auf dem Frauenberg”. Which the help of a dictionary tells me means Pilgrimage Church of Frauenberg. German speakers can correct me ,welcome.

VErsailles

One of his sad actions concerning the region where I now lived in Brittany and the Morbihan dept 56 in particular is that he not only  repressed the British landings, but also, of the immigrant Bretons entering by the Quiberon Peninsula, commanded by de Puisaye, Hervilly and Sombreuil, from 23 June to 21 July 1795, and defeated the Chouans (rebels peasants against the French revolution). He was,  then obtained command of all the armies of the West, including those in the Vendée. More in French here:  The Vendéen history on Hoche

VErsailles

The place Hoche was the place of public access to the wheelbarrows and blue chairs in the 18C and the capital executions during the French revolution .  The guillotine made seven victims here. The statue to Gen Hoche was erected in 1836 and a public garden in 1853.. Finally, during WWII, the place Hoche was marked by the arrest and deportation of seven resistance fighters aged 22 to 50. A plaque hung on a wall reminds us of their sacrifice.

My Versailles ,le quartier Notre-Dame, my neighborhood where I lived. Terrible in describing things but this is gorgeous place to live in. The neighborhood or district here is the new place after the Church and it grew quickly between the avenues leading to Saint-Cloud and the Clagny lake (now the market of Notre Dame). Destined to welcome the population in the service of the Court and the King, it is drawn by the architect Louis Le Vau and his partner François Orbay. The place Hoche (former place Dauphine) connects it, in 1674, to the castle, according to a device that will be permanently established as a model of urbanism. A bit later, in 1686, the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart was responsible for the construction of the Notre-Dame Church, which would be held as a Royal parish (where the birth and baptismal and some marriages records of the Kings descendants are still kept in the crypt in the basement!.

My neighborhood in French : https://www.versailles-tourisme.com/quartier-notre-dame.html

Across the square cutting it thru it is the Rue Hoche , before known as Place Dauphine, Place de la République, Place de la Loi, Place de la Colonne, Place Napoleon,and finally Place Hoche under  Louis-Philippe in 1832. Some interesting things to see are at No 5 , the temple or Protestant Church since 1820 ,with a renovation done 1880-1882  at 3, Rue Hoche. Also the Ancient Chapel of the Reposoir of the Procession of the Holy Sacrament under the former regime, and a high place of the Theophilanthropists’  under the Revolution.  At No 16 the house ordered built by André Le Nôtre, master gardener of  Louis XIV. We have difficulty proven he lived here but know he sold it in 1686, and before Mirabeau lodge here in 1789.

Versailles

Along the street, well sorry but my most frequent place was the pharmacy at 6 Place Hoche lol! However, there are nice restaurants here such as the Au Chapeu Gris, Bagelstein bagels place and delicious, as well as the nice Le Sévigné resto. fyi

In all a wonderful city , and do come walk it is a lot more than the castle, history of France before your eyes. Enjoy it as much as I did/do. Crowds of course, we lived with it for 10 years I am sure you can live for a day! And it gives life and stamina to the city, we welcome all especially those seeking history and architecture wonders. VERSAILLES!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

November 16, 2018

Grande and Petite Ecuries of Versailles!

So on a quiet Friday, bit cool and cloudy foggy in my neck of the woods, I remember Autumns there in my old home of Versailles. And yes indeed, its been a while not written anything on my wonderful Royal and Imperial city of Versailles.

The city of Versailles once did a survey on visitor and found out that to their surprise not me, 98% of visitor only see the Palace/Museum of Versailles. Pity when the Domaine of Versailles outside its walls of the palace, hameau, trianons, orangerie etc is much larger and with wonderful things to see. The fault is that on many sites they have Versailles as a thing to do in Paris lol! Well , first the only similarity is that it is in the same region of ïle de France. Then, it is not in the same department, county area as Paris has a proper one as 75 sort of like been DF in Mexico or DC in the USA; and Versailles has a department 78 Yvelines all apart. Then, for history, Versailles is classic France while Paris is for the world.You get it right, cheers ::)

I like to tell you a bit more on two classic buildings that are outside the Domaine physical location but administratevely part of it. The Royal Stables are the Great and Small Stable or in French, the Grande Ecuries and the Petite Ecuries.

The Grand Ecuries (stables) are located in Versailles , Department 78 of Yvelines in the region of ïle de France. It is right in the Place d’Armes, in front of the castle, between the avenues of Saint-Cloud and Paris. Constituting with the Petite Ecuries , the Royal stables that gave work to over 1000 persons under king Louis XIV. They were built under the direction of the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart and completed in 1682. With a merry-go-round, it sheltered the king’s hunting and war horses.

Versailles

Same as the Petite ecuries, which is separated by the Avenue de Paris, under the former regime, it was under the command of the Great squire of France and housed the school of the pages of the King, reserved for the sons of the families of the military nobility until 1550 . It also welcomed in its walls, between 1680 and 1830, the cradle of French horse riding: the School of Versailles. Between 1793 and 1794, the emblem at the pediment was removed. From 1854, the stable was occupied by the Army.

In 1978, the collection at the Museum of the Carriages or wagons of Trianon, built in 1851, was moved to the Grande Ecuries. In 1985, the Museum of carriages was opened to the public. In 2007, the Museum of carriages closed its doors for the expansion work. In 2016, the museum is open again to the public.

In 2002, the Château de Versailles returned to these places their initial function by choosing Bartabas, squire and founder of the equestrian show Zingaro. In 2003, the National Equestrian Academy of the Domaine de Versailles was inaugurated.

Equestrian Academy in official Bartabas site

La voie de l’écuyer Opus 2018 (the way of the Opus squire) is the new show going on now, more here: https://www.versailles-tourisme.com/la-voie-de-l-ecuyer-opus-2018.html

Versailles

Establishments located at the Grande Ecuries are: Gallery museum of Carriages or wagons, Equestrian Show Academy of Bartabas, and the city Archives of Versailles.

The buildings are organized around five courses: The large courtyard bordered by a colonnade in the hemicycle and two symmetrical wings;the two middle courses framed at the rear; the two small lateral courses say les manages.

Versailles

Behind the large gate, there was a rectangular carousel, which is now the theater of the National Equestrian Academy of the Domaine de Versailles, the galleries are simple to the Grande Ecuries while the Petite Ecuries has double galleries separated by the Colonnades. The ceilings of the galleries are vaulted. The visible walls of the castle are of stone, the other less visible are red brick with stone siding. The rectangular crusaders upstairs and skylights at the attic; The sculptures are presented at the pediment, eardrum and jambs of the Grand portal. The side entrances are on the Avenue de Saint-Cloud and the Avenue de Paris. In 2016, on the occasion of the opening of the gallery/museum of carriages, the sign Ecuries du Roi or King’s stables was installed on the wrough iron grille gate.

Versailles

The Petite ecuries on the Place d’Armes, in front of the castle, between the avenues of Paris and Sceaux. Constituting with the Grande Ecuries the royal stables and completed in 1681. It now houses the National School of Architecture of Versailles. Identical to the Grande Ecuries, which it is separated by the Avenue de Paris, under the former regime, it was under the orders of the first squire.

Official National School of Architecture of Versailles

Versailles

The Petite Ecuries has the care of ordinary mounts, hitch horses and wagons as well as fancy vehicles, sleighs of gondolas. From 1683 to 1685, the blacksmith was built behind the small stable. This property complements the activities of two stables.. In 2004, the La Maréchalerie   (blacksmiting) became a center of contemporary art at the National Higher School of Architecture of Versailles. It organizes several exhibitions a year. In 1787, to make economies, the activities of the Petite Ecuries were abolished and attached to the Grande Ecuries. From 1935 to 1939, it was the barracks of the Air school, with the air Base 134 Versailles. Since 1969, it has been home to the National Higher School of Architecture of Versailles. Since 1999, it also houses the restoration workshops of the Center for Research and Restoration of the museums of France.

Official Center for Restoration of the museums of France

Since 2012, the Petite Ecuries has presented to the public a gypsothèque containing a collection of about 5000 sculptures and casts according to the ancient times, especially Roman, since it was only in the 18C that archaeologists were interested in an advanced way to Greece. It is the casting collection of the Louvre Museum, the Ecole des Beaux-Arts and the Sorbonne Institute of Art and Archaeology; Under the direction of Louis XIV, Jean-Baptiste Colbert had indeed imposed on the residents of the Académie de France in Rome to copy old pieces so that they would serve as inspiration to the sculptors of Versailles.

Gypsothéque Sculptures and Mouldings gallery of Versailles

Since 2008, as part of the castle’s rescue campaign, several statues are housed in the sculpture gallery and replaced with copies. -The statue of Latone of the basin of the Latone in 2015 or the-groups of sculptures in the Bosquet des Bains d’Apollon in 2010.

Versailles

Some webpages to help you further your discovered of the many things to do in Versailles are

Official Chateau de Versailles on the Stables

Official Chateau de Versailles on Events at the Grande ecuries

Official Yvelines dept 78 tourism on Equestrian events

Another fascinating page on my beautiful and good city of Versailles , you ought to spent more time here. Even if crowds , of course, it is very popular place after all for the castle:museum but do walk out and see much more in royal and imperial Versailles.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and  many cheers to all!!!

 

 

 

November 15, 2018

My travels in the Morbihan, LXXIII

Ok here I am and the wordpress folks change the page on me do not know why did not ask for this. Hopefully, it will work from now on (its really hard to handle this is not good) Ok it seems was able to switch back to old editor!!! . It is cool here but very nice 16C or about 60F no rain but was foggy in the morning. 

My twins boys are 25 Saturday but it is my travel day to Asia so we are taking advantage of my two days off today and tomorrow to do all before I leave for a week. We have our usual errands and trips and eat out we are very outdoors folks!

Lanester

First, we went this morning to neighboring historical Auray. In this town we have our bank and studio photography to renew do my father’s US passport by mail. The usual fees in Euros on a bank check needs to be ordered arriving by mail;vive la difference. We then mail all to the US embassy in Paris for the new one which will arrive by mail within or about two weeks.

While in the lovely Auray I took some photos new ones to show you the nice town Auray is. 

auray
auray
auray

We then hop over to our capital city of Vannes and our fav store FNAC to get an agenda for my French buddy in Asia , spiral style weekly layout. We look around for some potential Christmas gifts that this year will be very sad as will be the first one without my dear late wife Martine. We usually do a live pine tree and look forward to continue the tradition.

vannes

It was time to do the celebration, and my boys decided to have it in one restaurant we first encounter in Honfleur while on the sad mission of depositing the ashes of my late wife to sea with the help of the lifesavers SNSM. We realised they had an outlet in nearby Lanester ,next to Lorient and we had already try it very nice. The boys decided their outing for their birthday will be there. So we did

The restaurant is French but with a Western American theme and plenty of US flags. The food well it is with some items like Baltimore crab cakes, and pancho villa’s nachos and fish and chip and budweiser beers but also, Sol; you get the picture, a whole mingling of kitchen traditions. oh the Restaurant is Oncle Scott’s (uncle scott) and it is nice , friendly service and good food if a bit over price for the genre.

lanester oncle scott front entrance pipo nov18

We had several dishes but the principal had entrée of pancho villa’s nachos, main dish fish and chips, all with potatoes and sauces couple of Sol bottle beers and a delicious brownie and vanilla ice cream with English sauce , all came out for 30€ per person.

lanester oncle scott US flag nov18

lanester oncle scott USA Mexico cooperation nov18

We came back as tomorrow is another hectic day and not know if will have time to write one more post before leaving. We have to do some groceries at E Leclerc, and stop for the video games birthday gifts at Micromania, and my oldest will have his driving school class for two hours study period.

I will then leave Saturday morning. If you are not aware this Saturday November 17 France will go on strike oh la la la excercesing our right to protest as loyal citizens of the French Republic. Many places will be block by motorists all over and of course the airport is one of then. Hopefully ,I will do my trick to avoid all this and get to the airport even if earlier than usual.  Best of luck if driving in France on that day. For more check the official strike webpage in French of course: https://www.blocage17novembre.com/

It is done that you can see the talk in each department in France and find out where the blocks will be. Vive la France!!!

So until we read again, be good and stay away from blockage areas in my belle France.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

 

November 15, 2018

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, Paris

So again in my humid cool nights of the Morbihan Breton with about 11C and hard rains at times, I sit in my computer to do my favorite past times ,my blog. I thank you all for sharing with me this experience on each post. I just need to tell you more about my eternal Paris of course.

The Arch of Triumph of the Carrousel in Paris is especial as it was near my work area for several years and spent many days walking around it. As such is the case, sometimes the places you have to near you the less pictures you take, after all you see it live every day at the time. So now in French, it is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel.

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel is an arch monument situated in the Place du Carrousel in the 1éme arrondissement or district of Paris, just west of the Louvre museum. With entries on each of the four sides, built between 1807 and 1809, the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel celebrates the victory of Napoleon Bonaparte’s great army at Austerlitz, currently in the Czech Republic, located east of the city of Brno.

The Arch has three archways;the largest, central one is 6.5 m or 21ft high. The whole structure is 19m (63 ft) high and 23m (75ft) wide The monument is erected in front of the palace of the Tuileries to which it serves as an entrance of honor, a gate separating the courtyard from the palace of the Place du Carrousel which gives it its name. After the fire of the Palace of the Tuileries in 1871(done by the Communards of Paris uprising) and its destruction in 1883 (by the Third Republic and city of Paris), the monument is located in the center of the large esplanade formed by the jardin du carrousel and the place du Carrousel.

It is a small scale copy of the Arch of Constantine (313-315) in Rome, the latter being inspired by the arcs of Septimius-Severa and Orange. The quadriga above the arch is a copy of the bronze horses of Constantine I, a hitch adorning the top of the main gate of the Basilica of St. Mark of Venice. Indeed, after the first campaign in Italy, the French army led by the general of the Italian Army Napoleon Bonaparte took them from Venice in 1798, the original of the sculpture as taken as war treasure and placed it on the monument. Itself been taken by the Venetians from Constantinople (Istanbul today) in 1204.   He was surrounded by two victories from 1808. In 1815, following the Battle of Waterloo and the fall of the Emperor (restoration), France returned the Quadriga to the Austrians, who returned it immediately to Venice, which had just been annexed to the Austrian Empire by the Congress of Vienna. In 1828, King Charles X asked to create a new quadriga that represented the restoration leading a chariot dragged by four horses.

paris

paris

paris

We can read about the front sides as such:

East Façade: The French army embarked in Boulogne threatened England; A third coalition breaks out on the continent; The French go from the ocean to the Danube; Bavaria is delivered, the Austrian army imprisoned in Ulm; Napoleon enters Vienna, he triumphs at Austerlitz; In less than a hundred days, the coalition is dissolved

South facade: Honor to the Grand Armée (great army); Victorious at Austerlitz; In Moravia December 2, 1805 anniversary Day of Napoleon’s coronation. 

West facade: To the voice of the winner of Austerlitz; The Empire of Germany Falls; The Confederation of the Rhine begins; The kingdoms of Bavaria and Württemberg are created; Venice is joined to the Iron Crown; Whole Italy bows under the laws of its liberator

North facade: Master of the states of his enemy; Napoleon makes them , signed peace on 27 December 1805 in the capital of Hungary occupied by his victorious army.

In turn each side is decorated with bas-reliefs such as

North Face, a bas-relief of the entrance to Vienna.

South Face, a bas-relief of   the Peace of Pressburg.

Face East (Carousel side), from left to right: a cuirassier, ; a dragon,; a hunter on horseback, a Carabinier,   Between the two columns on the left, a bas-relief of the capitulation of Ulm; between those on the right: a bas-relief of the Battle of Austerlitz.

West Face (Tuileries side), from left to right: a grenadier, a rifleman of the line, a gunner,; a sapper. Between the two columns on the left, a bas-relief of the entrance of the French army in Munich; Between those on the right: a bas-relief of the interview of Tilsit.

The arc is also equipped with a sundial and a leveling mark.

It is a wonderful arch ,and wonderful to walk underneath it and around it. There are some webpages to help you know more this wonderful arch such as:

Arc de Triumphe du Carrousel in Napoleon’s site

In French at the city of Paris history museum of CarnavaletCarnavalet museum on the Arch

A nice youtube video on the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel

It is wonderful area and I would say a nice must walk around while in Paris. Surrounded by many wonderful sights of my eternal Paris.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

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November 15, 2018

The Conciergérie, Paris

So back to Paris, on a cloudy cool Autumn day in my Morbihan breton and Paris I like quickly tell you about something huge that I have written in pieces bits by bits before. Sorry for the long post, but this is pretty much in condense form the history of France even to the French Republic.

I will be telling you about history that I like on the Conciergérie of Paris in the Palais de la Cité!  The Palais de la Cité (City palace) was the residence and seat of the power of the kings of France from the 10C  to the 14C. It extended on the western part of the island of La Cité in the 1éme arrondissement of Paris.  Today, a large part of the site is occupied by the courthouse of Paris and most of the remains of this palace are constituted by the former prison of the Conciergérie which runs along the quai de l’Horloge.

Paris

Mérovingians period:  Dagobert I, King of the Franks from 629 to 638, had a roving court, but it is known that he stayed in this palace. The importance of the place is confirmed by the fact that he had a monetary workshop established there. In 635, it was founded, under the protection of the King, in front of the palace (on the northern edge of the present police prefecture), a women’s abbey dedicated to Saint Martial of Limoges and then known as Saint-Eloi.

Carolingian period: The palais de la Cité was the home of the Counts of Paris. It was inhabited by King Hugues Capet, first King Capetian, who established the Curia Regis (the Royal Council) and various services of his administration.

Robert II the Pious, son of Hugues Capet, undertook at the end of his reign to rebuild in Paris a very remarkable palace. He profoundly transformed the ancient citadel of the lower Empire, remaining within the limits of the rampart, which formed a quadrilateral of about 100 to 135 meters aside. This was the first Logis du Roi (king’s residence): the building, located to the west of the palace, is visible on one of the miniatures of the Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry (very rich hours of the Duke of Berry).

The documents relating to the reigns of Henry I and Philip I  provide only rare indications of the palace. However, the existence of a king’s room was well confirmed as early as the 11C. Louis VI the Fat  appears to have carried out major additions and resurfacings. Louis VI had the King’s residence altered between the two quadrangular towers which framed the square tower and the tower called later tour de la librarie (library tower).

In 1141, Louis VII the Young  established  in the palace and in an exclusive way, the changers on the Grand-Pont, therefore named Pont-aux-Changeurs. For a fee, they rented shops to carry out their business. On the eastern side, the main entrance to the palace was in the large courtyard where there was a staircase of honor. Thus, around 1165-1166, the king officially welcomed the monks of Vézelay on the palace rights. These rights were to give access to the floor of a gallery linking the king’s room to the St. Nicholas Chapel. Lous VII erected in his palace a Royal oratory, dedicated to the Virgin, located at the site of the present-day Chapel of the Girondins. In the Saint-Michel chapel, located to the southeast of the palace, the Bishop of Paris, Maurice de Sully, celebrated a Sunday of the second fortnight of August 1165, the baptism of the son of Louis VII, the future Philip II Auguste. However, this chapel remained outside the palace walls until the reign of Jean II the Good.

Philip Auguste II  enlarged the palace’s functions by awarding it in 1190, before his departure for the crusade, the preservation of the royal archives. To the west, the King’s garden occupied the tip of the island, beyond a courtyard bounded by the walls of the palace dating from antiquity. It was undoubtedly during the reign of Philip Auguste  that it was enclosed by a wall. It was during the reign of Philip Auguste  that the palace of the city lost its status as the main fortress of Paris when the king erected the château fort of the Louvre and gave the city of a new rampart.

From the reign of Saint Louis in the 1240’s  and for nearly a century of works, the palace underwent a remarkable expansion and structuring corresponding to the development of the radiance and centralization of the royal power. Saint Louis shared the space of the original quadrilateral: the western part reserved for the private apartments of the royal family, an eastern part open to the city, a southern part devolved to the canons of the Holy Chapel and to the Chaplains of the King. Saint Louis built the Sainte-Chapelle between 1242 and 1248. The work began with the demolition of the St. Nicholas Chapel. , the Sainte-Chapelle is a magnified version of two-story chapel, as high as a Gothic  cathedral (36 meters long, 17 meters wide, 42.5 meters high without the arrow). Next to the Sainte-Chapelle, adjoining by a passage the first northern span of its apse, Saint Louis built the Revestiaire , which housed the Sacristy and the treasure of the charters. It is known that Saint Louis consumed his marriage in the green room, adjoining the oratory, located north of the King’s residence, even though he usually slept in the king’s room, the upper room adjoining the King’s Room, and took his meals in the level Lower of the latter.

During the reign of Philip III the Bold, the palace grew to the west, to the north, to the south, beyond the walls of the 3C. Around the palace, the banks were extended. We know the destination of the buildings under the reign of the son of Saint Louis. In 1278, the King’s room ceased to be the place where the Curia Regis’s legal sessions were held to become the pleaders ‘ waiting room before they entered the room Aus Paiz outside the pleadings, the king took his meals there , while the common  was restored under the King’s Room. The king slept in the room of the so-called upper chamber.  The tower adjoining the King’s Room housed the wardrobe in which the chamberlains ate.  Between the galerie des Merciers and the northern flank of the Sainte-Chapelle, was the courthouse of the king who was next to the treasure of the charters. In the heart of the palace, the room of the audiences  or the cashier of the Hotel du Roi.

Philip IV The Beautiful  had the palace rebuilt. The work was completed in 1313. Philip IV Le Bel arranged the Grand Hall. The Grand Hall of the palais de la Cité was the room where the king held his  justices and in which were held the receptions. The meals were served on the Black marble table. This room is exceptional (the largest vestige of a Gothic Civil Hall of Europe): 64 meters long, 27.5 meters wide and 8.5 meters high, it was built between 1302 and 1313.

Jean II le Bon (Good)  made several arrangements in the Palais de la Cité. In December 1349, just before his advent, then Duke of Normandy, made work in the Chamber of the palace, perhaps on the second floor of the King’s residence. At the beginning of the 1350’s, the wing of the galerie des Merciers was also raised, building pebbles to the east of the palace. The Dauphin’s apartment was in the  Galethas room; the future Charles V lived here  between 1357 and 1358

The events following the capture of Jean II led his son Charles V to leave the palace as early as 1360. Jean II’s widow moved to the Hôtel Saint-Pol and Charles V at the Château du Louvre. Charles V made several works to maintain and beautify the palais de la Cité. Thus, during repairs undertaken in 1370, in the northeast tower of the first public clock in Paris was built and by 1371,he gave it a silver bell.  Under Charles VI the beloved, various works were undertaken and the palace abandoned by the King continued to serve as a setting for the royal feasts.

Renaissance period:  After King Charles VIII had affirmed his right to rule, during a courtship solemnly held in the Grand Hall  in July 1484; he ordered works at the Sainte-Chapelle.  Louis XII follow up king  Charles VIII ,also did some work here such as on the south side of the palace courthouse alone the Sainte-Chapelle.

The last Valois: François I, celebrated around the marble table of the Grand Hall his wedding with Eleanor of Habsburg  in 1530. The latter’s brother, Charles V, was lavishly received  in 1540. During the reign of Henry II (1547-1559), Parliament continued to play an increasing role in the conduct of domestic and external policy; Henri III (1574-1589) undertook, from 1578, the realization of the land of the future Pont Neuf (new bridge)  by bringing together the old islets by a considerable supply of embankments. He also backfill the South shore to establish a wharf. This was the end of the jardin du roi and the Hötel du Bailliage built to the south of this garden and occupied since the reign of Charles V by the Concierge of the palace  appointed from then bailiff.

The Bourbon period: With the reign of Henri IV began a period of intense urbanization in the vicinity of the medieval palace. The king conceded in 1607 to the first President of Parliament, Achille de Harlay the land at the tip of the island, to build houses there: This led to the creation between 1607 and 1620 of the place Dauphine. Louis XIII pursued his father’s work by creating the first true stone quays of the île de la Cité. During the reign of Louis XIV (1643-1715), the palace underwent various works, including the reconstruction of the first Chamber of Petitions, the Parquet, and the registry. In 1737, during the reign of Louis XV (1715-1774), the palace had a third fire which destroyed the Chamber of accounts. Jacques V Gabriel built a classical ensemble instead. Begun in 1738, the work was completed two years later. A fourth fire took place at the beginning of the reign of Louis XVI (1774-1792), in 1776. The sovereign seized the opportunity and decided to clear the main entrance to the palace. It was able to give a monumental appearance in accordance with the architectural tastes of the time. The Sainte-Chapelle and the old Grand-Hall became the Salle de Pas Perdu (lost steps room). The new neoclassical facades of the galerie des Merciérer with its colossal Corinthian order, square dome and monumental staircase and the Dauphine gallery were then arranged. In 1778, the big tower was demolished. The demolition of the eastern enclosure began in 1781 and was followed in 1783 by the Charter treasure. In 1785, the construction of a new east-west Wing, called Galerie de la Sainte-Chapelle, bordering the latter on its northern flank. The Dauphine gallery was modified to border the whole of the Salle de Pas Perdu. Finally, the new courtyard of honor of the palace was closed in 1787 by a grid made of wrought iron and gilded.

In 1789, the Palais de la Cité housed the main institutions of the Kingdom of France, including the Chamber of Auditors, the Court of Currencies, the Court of Aid and especially the Parliament of Paris. It housed in 1791 the Court of Cassation, established in the Grand chamber, the Criminal Court of Paris was also installed there as well as the departments of Police, Forests, Finances and Contributions; in 1793, the Revolutionary Court settled on the first floor, in the former Grand Chamber of the Paris Parliament, renamed the Liberty Hall, and a second room, called Equality, was established in the former Salle Saint-Louis. The public Prosecutor of the Tribunal, Fouquier-Tinville, had set up its offices on the same floor, between the towers of Caesar and Money. From 1793 to 1794, more than 2700 people appeared before him, including Marie-Antoinette and Robespierre. Therefore, all the prisoners who were detained in the various prisons of Paris, as well as in some provincial prisons, who were to appear before the court, were gradually transferred to the concierge. In 1794, witnesses and defenders are suppressed and every day several dozen people are guillotined. Arrested on 27 July 1794, Robespierre was sentenced to death the next day by the Revolutionary Court. In 1795 the Convention abolished the Revolutionary Court and the Court of Cassation returns to the Palais de la Cité. In the course of the consular and then imperial reforms, the judicial administration took possession of the palace, which then became the Palais de Justice in Paris.

Under the first Empire, the Sainte-Chapelle was transformed into a deposit of the national Archives and retained this assignment until 1837. Under the Restoration, at the request of king Louis XVIII, a atoning chapel was erected at the site of Queen Marie Antoinette’s  dump well. The restoration of the vaults of the lower Grand-Hall started under the Empire was completed in 1819 and resulted in its release.  The northern façade of the palace between the clock tower and the Bonbec tower  was done in a medieval style.

Under the July Monarchy,  between 1833 and 1835 the Galerie Saint-Louis in Gothic where the implementations of the first theories on the restitution of medieval polychromies was held. Under the Second Empire, this project was largely carried out in parallel with the restoration works of the Sainte-Chapelle and the medieval buildings of the Conciergerie. The facade of the six civil chambers of the Court of first Instance, north-east of the palace, along the quay de l’Horloge was continued in the Gothic style as well as the façade to the east of the Salle des Pas Perdu. The palace was enlarged to the north-west and to the side of the quai  des Orfèvres. In particular, the construction of the buildings of the Cour de Cassation began in 1856. It was also during this period that the former king’s residence  was destroyed.

In the midst of the uprising of the Commune, the courthouse, barely completed, was the subject of arson in 1871 (as many in Paris in this period). The Salle des Pas Perdu and the Grand Hall  were completely destroyed in the fire. Under the Third Republic, the work has in particular focused on a revision of the organization of the central and southwest parts of the palace; In 1874, the east side of place Dauphine was demolished to enhance the neo-Greek ordinance of the facade of Harlay done by 1914. In 1881, the Court of Cassation was terminated  Building the premises of the Court of Grande instance of Paris; the work started in 1907 was completed in 1914. It finally lost his prison function in 1934.

The Sainte Chapelle, and the Conciergerie are open to the public, and temporary exhibitions are held there. The four towers overlooking the Seine are remnants of the Middle Ages, the facades were built in the 19C. The daily life of the Conciergérie  prison is restored ː the Registrar’s Office, responsible for registering the detainees on the registers; The concierge’s office, now under the French revolution period and responsible for the prisoners; revolutionary jails , and the cell of Marie-Antoinette. The blade of the guillotine that served the execution of Lacenaire is exposed.

Paris

Things to see as much as I like them:

The Salle des Gens d’Armes (Hall of the Guards), formerly refectory of the palace. The Rue de Paris takes its name from Monsieur de Paris, nickname given to the executioner of the Revolutionary Court, who came to visit the prisoners through this corridor. The great courtyard; It was the old King’s Garden, which had been replaced by a large rectangular courtyard. The Central corridor: dark and narrow, distributed on his route many rooms: The window room, the office of the conciergerie, the registry, the back-graft, the parlour, a rest room for the tellers, the infirmary, the chapel, some cells For women… The Court of women, an old garden bordering the King’s residence, this courtyard was the place for women to walk. The clerk’s office: It was reconstituted in the Concierge museum. This room has become the bar of the courthouse. The toilet room: In this place, the condemned to death were stripped of their personal objects for the benefit of the State or the hangman, low paid and for whom, therefore, there were no small gains: jewellery, snuff, spectacles, watches.  To the Cour du Mai, where the carts were waiting for them to lead them to their place of execution. The small royal chapel ,called Chapelle des Girondins, it occupies the location of the medieval oratory of the king. Marie-Antoinette’s first cell: Marie-Antoinette of Austria was installed in the former meeting room of the tellers overlooking the women’s court by a narrow window. Marie-Antoinette’s second cell: it is located next to the small royal chapel. For more privacy, the cell was cut in half by a partition of planks with a screen separating it from the two constables, which ensured its constant supervision. See the towers such as tour Bonbec, closest to the Seine river, andTour d’Argent, Tour de César , and Tour de l’Horloge , the most famous located at the angle of the Quai de l’Horloge and Boulevard du Palais.

The interesting points about this clock are:  Henri II appears through his monogram, composed of the H of Henri with the C of Catherine de  Medici, his wife. The small subtlety of this monogram is that each bar of H joins perfectly to the C, so as to form a D… The D of Diane de Poitiers, the favourite of King Henry II!  The son of Henry II, King Henry III, left some traces too, a visible inscription in Latin in the cartridge located above the dial. You can read this: QVI DEDIT ANTE DVAS TRIPLICEM DABIT ILLE CORONAM

This text simply refers to King Henry III by naming his two crowns.  He who has already given him two crowns will give him a third.  So we can guess the divine right that gave him the crowns of Poland and France, and the third Crown refers here to the motto of the King, Manet ultima cælo  something meaning , the last is in heaven, for the purpose of the king and all mortals and to find myself  fine in the Kingdom of Heaven. These two reliefs are allegories of law and justice. The law stands to the left of the dial, and carries a sceptre and a well-visible tablet, having this inscription in Latin: SACRA DEI CELEBRARE PIVS REGALE TIME IVS. Something like meaning, the allegory of Righteousness stands on the right side of the dial, with the balance in her left hand and the sword in her right hand, the two classic attributes of justice.  These two women have the golden body to gold, and their held is in a royal blue.

Finally, Henri IV appears by his monogram, the H of Henri interspersed at the M of Marguerite de Valois, not only on the periphery of the cartridge containing the emblems of the Kingdom of France and the Kingdom of Poland, but also in much larger on the boxes located under the small roof of the clock, thus accompanying the monogram of King Henry II, and this alternately, a box on two.  There is a third one, in a rectangular cartridge placed under the clock, bearing this text: MACHINA QVÆ BIS SEX TAM JVSTE DIVIDIT HORAS JVSTITIAM SERVARE MONET LEGES QVE TVERI. Meaning somehow, this machine that makes twelve hours so fair teaches to protect justice and to defend the laws. Lovely my France!!!

Some webpages to help you plan your visit here are

Official Conciergerie de Paris

Tourist office of Paris on the Conciergerie

For info , it is included in the Paris museum pass: Official Paris Museum Pass

From France’s National Monuments site in English: Official National Monuments of France

There you a whole history book on a few phrases, of course not complete but it gives you a taste to know, you must come to see it and understand my belle France.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

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November 14, 2018

The Esplanade Gaston-Monnerville ,Paris

So here I am and you are there, and it is cold now at 11C or 51F but very humid and it feels colder, dark as Autumn is in the air, plenty of leaves out and my road is under renovation so need to go around for 6 km extra time to work lol! just under 4 miles! In my Morbihan breton of course. In Paris, there is the same weather tonite.

In my walks around Paris I come to many places and some remains in my mind as nice. Well Paris has so many nice places but in the nice category there is some who are well beyond nice. This is one garden park promenade esplanade as you wish ,that is very nice indeed. As well as been in a nice area of Paris.

I like to tell you a bit more on the Esplanade Gaston-Monnerville.

The Esplanade Gaston-Monnerville is, since 2006, an esplanade and a green space located in the 6éme arrondissement or district of Paris. It is located between the rue Auguste-Comte and the garden of the great explorers Marco-Polo and Cavelier-de-la-Salle. This Parisian street was named after Gaston Monnerville, a notable French politician of the 20C.

Following a request from the Association of Friends of Gaston Monnerville, the Conseil de Paris inaugurated on September 5, 2006 the renaming of the old jardin Cavelier-La Salle garden, in his honnor.  The bust in his homage, erected on the Esplanade in 2011,  has his bust  on the place André-Honnorat, and his plaque on  Avenue Raymond-Poincaré, in the 16éme arrondissement, where he died.

It is located exactly at 7, place André Honnorat between the gates of the Luxembourg Garden and the beginning of the garden of the great explorers in the center of the Avenue de l’Observatoire. The avenue de l’Observatoire is occupied throughout its central part by a series of gardens, of which the Esplanade Gaston-Monnerville and the Luxembourg garden.

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This garden esplanade is served by the metro line of Notre-Dame-des-Champs, line 12 and by the Vavin metro line 4.

Who was the esplanade called before; well  it was named after René-Robert  Cavalier de la Salle born in Rouen,  Normandy, in 1643 and died murdered in 1687 near Navasota, southwest of the French colony of Louisiana, in the present American state of Texas.  As a traveller, he travelled through the Great Lakes region of the current United States and Canada, then the Mississippi River, and discovered the territories between the St. Lawrence Valley and the Mississippi Delta. Why the change do not know, politics I guess.

More on the Esplanade Gaston-Monnerville from the city of Paris: City of Paris on Gaston Monnerville

One of the nice places to walk and relax in Paris and closed to the wonderful Luxembourg garden an entry in my blog as well. This is really a nice place to walk and be seen.

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Between the jardin des grands explorateurs (garden of the great explorers) and the Luxembourg garden , this treed esplanade makes the junction between the two. You can bring your children to play in the dedicated playgrounds or come and sit down with friends in the grass for a small impromptu picnic. Lovely Paris!

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Hope you enjoy the simplicity and beauty of Paris in a not so famous area but worth the meaning of my eternal Paris.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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November 14, 2018

Thanksgiving France 2018!

So once again another major celebration and out of the USA, and to boot this year won’t be even in France as will be on a trip to Asia during that week. Anyway, this is major and we will do away earlier as usual. It is not a Holiday in France so we usually go the weekend before or after out and on the day at home we had some leftovers or snacks and drinks. But it is mark in our calendar. I love the meaning and the festivities around it always since childhood.

I am talking about Thanksgiving, the big American tradition and traffic jams and airports loaded and even Amstrak trains lol!! The works all in one, but is repeated every year with love and tender family and friends gatherings all over. Here in my belle France, it is not well known but it is celebrated by the American community in major towns where it is available by restaurants or place that have the ingredients to do it. In my neck of the woods of Morbihan there is nothing.

I have done one blog post on it way back, little yes but heck so much abound can’t cover it all, I try ok. Here is the old blog post: Thanksgiving Americana in Paris

As to the Thanksgiving, well in 2018, Thanksgiving falls on Thursday November 22nd (always on the fourth Thursday of November). At this American holiday, it is customary to enjoy a turkey with the family. American expatriates compete with ingenuity to perpetuate the tradition of Thanksgiving abroad. A large number of Parisians as well have now converted and celebrate this Thanksgiving Day with family, friends, home or church.  We do our best to gather the ingredients or go if possible to a place that has setup the meal for the celebration.

A bit of history I like

The first commemoration of Thanksgiving dates back to 1621. One year before that date, precisely on 26 November 1620, the separatist Pilgrim Fathers  landed in the Plymouth area of Massachusetts colony, fleeing the persecution of the bad King of England and the actions of the church in their country. When they arrived in the colony, their survival was quite complicated, as many of them ,more than half ,were attacked by scurvy and died. The survivors were saved only by the intervention of the Wampanoag, a local tribe. They agreed to a bilateral agreement where the native tribe taught visitors new cultures, fishing and hunting, and in return the Pilgrims fathers defended them from their assailants. This agreement bore a great deal of fruit, because in 1621 the first harvest was a very successful one. Governor William Bradford therefore decreed three days of thanksgiving to thank God, the land and the native Indians. It was historically the first Thanksgiving. It was in 1789, on October 3, that it was declared for the first time officially a United States National Day by first President George Washington.

The ingredients have not change much over time. On the table, we find the products of the season crops: corn, green beans ,squash, sweet potatoes, onions, green salad ,spinach , but also,  the cranberries, pecan nuts ham, not forgetting of course the traditional turkey. Many Americans also like to watch the Thanksgiving parade, on television or in town. Big stores in several major cities organize these parades. The best known is Macy’s in New York city which is huge and very famous for its magnificent chariots, huge flying balloons and celebrities.

Over the years while living in Versailles and working in Paris, I have attended many Thanksgiving there and have some of my favorite still going on below as well as some popular new ones not yet tested. Here are the essential addresses in Paris to get into the tradition of Thanksgiving USA!

 Joe Allen,  the oldest American brewery in Paris, opened in 1972, and one of my favorites spots. Since then,it has never ceased to be the home of many American Parisians or Parisians in love with the Big Apple.  At a rate of 50€, the special Thanksgiving menu includes pan-fried wild mushrooms, homemade duck terrine, roast turkey, marinated and grilled tuna steak, pumpkin pie, apple and cranberry crumble with vanilla ice cream.Still located at .30 Rue Pierre Lescot, 1éme. More here:. https://www.joeallenparis.com/

Hard Rock Café Paris , the famous institution invites all American culture fans to enjoy an authentic Thanksgiving dinner. On the menu: corn soup, turkey with cranberries sauce, pecan nut tart… Price: check for latest details, to be at a more festive party ambiance. Located at  14 Boulevard Montmartre, 9éme. More here: https://www.hardrock.com/cafes/paris/

The Harry’s Bar is the oldest American bar in Paris, it has recently celebrated its 100 years. As much to say that the atmosphere will be festive! A special Thanksgiving lunch is served usually need to check it out for 2018.I have come here for drinks and chat only. Usual Thanksgiving meal set up included  Pumpkin soup, club sandwich, cole slaw, pecan pie, brownies, drink and coffee. Located at 5 Rue Daunou, 2éme. More here :  https://www.yelp.com/biz/harrys-new-york-bar-paris-2

Le Drugstore, famous restaurant of the concept-store Publicis on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, proposes to us on Thursday 22 November 2018. Again not here for the feast but nice place to be in  indeed. To honor this great American celebration, chef Eric Frechon has concocted a special menu for the occasion. On the menu that evening, corn fritters followed by  pumpkin soup  with chestnut chips and roasted hazelnuts to open our appetite. Next is the must-have stuffed farm turkey and roasted in casserole, accompanied by a sweet potato purée with foie gras, all sprinkled with the juice of the roast. The festivities would not be complete without the traditional Pecan Pie that finishes this hearty meal on a sweet note and a bit regressive. To water all this, the chef chose a selection of wines on the notes of a playlist “tribute to US Music” which will pace the atmosphere the time of this special and unique dinner .  At 19h ,60€ without drinks. More here: https://www.publicisdrugstore.com/fr/le-drugstore

And for the day after the feast: Breakfast in America, a very good address for breakfast and  American burgers, American owned.Locations at 17 rue des Écoles, Paris 6éme and at  4, rue Malher, 4éme. More here:  http://breakfast-in-america.com/thanksgiving-2018-reserve-now/?lang=en

Promenade Newyorkais , this is new place never visited but very popular with my Paris American friends nowdays.  The exiled Americans find themselves there… with the Parisians who want to have a good evening!  Located at 44 rue du Louvre,1éme. The Parisian hotel also offers authentic US spirit milkshakes and ice creams: everything to attract girls! And in the early evening, the restaurant is transformed into a bar and the music lounge goes up in fun. A young and trendy place to eat, have a drink  !More here:  https://www.yelp.com/biz/promenade-newyorkais-paris

Verjus , French-American Restaurant famous for its cuisine.  Again newer comer never visited but popular with the American community of Paris. Thanksgiving Dinner from Monday 20th to Friday November 24th. Two services every night.  The Thanksgiving tasting menu is at 68€.  Located at 47 Rue Montpensier, 1éme. More info here:  https://www.verjusparis.com/

The Real McCoy, 49 avenue Bosquet  7éme . One of my first encounters with buying American goodies in Paris way back then… Open every day from 10h to 20h. Turkeys done or not in pre ordering, cakes,  pecan pies, cheesecake etc …This is a small grocery store here for over 25 years. More here: https://www.yelp.fr/biz/the-real-mccoy-paris

La Grande Epicérie de Paris Passy ,16éme _at the 1st Floor (2nd Fl US); you can find small turkeys here on pre orders. Yes my dear late wife Martine purchase small turkeys here very juicy and nice for home cooking. Open Mondays to Saturdays from 8h30 to 21h. More here : https://www.lagrandeepicerie.com/en/rive-droite

Les Viandes du Champs de Mars, 122 Rue Saint-Dominique, 7éme . Butcher shop , open from 7h to 13h and from 16h to 19h30.  You can order your turkey right now and until November 22nd. You can also order a farce (classic or according to your own recipe and the desired ingredients).  A clientele of regulars has trusted Jean-Marie Boédec for years. My dear late wife Martine tried and it is good indeed!     https://www.yelp.com/biz/les-viandes-du-champ-de-mars-paris

Le Lafayette Gourmet , 40, boulevard Hausmann  9éme. Open from Mondays to Saturdays 9h30 to  20h – Night opening on Thursdays to 21h. Very nice stuff here but never purchase turkeys here. More here:. https://haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/food-shopping-at-lafayette-gourmet/

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Rachel’s Grocery, 20 rue du Pont aux Choux, 3éme. An American in Paris. Better known for sweets and cheescakes but also has ingredients for Thanksgiving. Also , at  72, quai de Jemmapes, Paris 10éme. More here :  https://www.yelp.com/biz/rachels-grocery-paris

American Church Paris  65 Quai d’Orsay, 7éme. Every year the Church offered persons in the neighborhood the opportunity to meet around a Thanksgiving meal. I have participated with the family here for Halloween as well over the years and visits , very nice place. The ticket for the table are sold on site for 20€ adults and 12€ children. More info here:  https://www.acparis.org/

For the nostalgic of Paris like me, the American grocery store Thanksgiving  was the place to find American products in Paris for yeears…including the Thanksgiving ingredients, however, unfortunately it has closed. It was the spot for the American community to get a piece of Americana while in Paris. It was located in the neighborhood of  Saint-Paul district 4 at  20 Rue Saint-Paul. Just for the memories ok.

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There you go, if in town you now know where to go, and if not, remember these places serve all year around à l’Americaine or Ricains lol! As Americans are known here nicely! Enjoy your Thanksgiving wherever you are and happy family times.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

November 14, 2018

The Bois de Boulogne, Paris!

Hello world, here I am on a semi cloudy cool day of  14C or about 56F in my Morbihan breton! In Paris we have now 54F and semi cloudy as well.  Rain is announced in both regions. And counting for another weekend already lol! I zig zag and walk and drove many times in this wonderful forest , the lungs of Paris indeed.

I like to tell you a bit more on the Bois de Boulogne. Unless you come in daytime, it is wonderful; at night it has some ladies cheering you on all the way!!! My first trip by car here was at around 20h and I believe I counted one in every tree lol! For the tame I am talking about prostitutes.

I used to worked on the other side in Suresnes, so the quickest way was to cross the pont de Suresnes thru the Bois de Boulogne to reach Paris. Oh yes this borders Hauts de Seine dept 92 too , that is where Suresnes is.

There is so much to see and eat and do here during the wonderful daytime hours that it can really filled in a week doing them. I just would concentrate a bit on the history as I am an amateur!

The Bois de Boulogne is a wooded expanse, located in the 16éme arrondissement of Paris, covering an area of 846 hectares. Two and a half times larger than Central Park in New York, and 3.3 times larger than Hyde Park in London, it is however 5.9 times smaller than the Soignes  forest in Brussels and occupies only half the surface of the Casa de Campo of Madrid. The Bois de Boulogne occupies part of the site of the ancient forest of Rouvray.

map bois de boulogne

The central part of the forest contains the Bagatelle park, as well as the pre-Catelan garden. Its northern part is occupied by the Jardin d’Acclimmatation, an amusement park ,the Louis-Vuitton Foundation. To the southeast is the jardin des Serres d’Auteil. To the southwest, between the Longchamp racecourse and the Bagatelle Park, is the GoodPlanet Foundation, at the Domaine de Longchamp. The forest has lots of lakes that are all artificial and fed by the waters of the Seine river such as the Lake Superior, Lower Lake, Lake of the circle of wood of Boulogne (or for skating), Lake of the jardin d’Acclimmatation, the mare of Armenonville , the Mare Saint-James, the lake of Longchamp, the pond of the abbey, the pond of Suresnes, the pond of the tribunes, the pond of Boulogne and the Great Cascade (waterfall).  The forest is traversed by Longchamp Brook, the Sablons Brook and Armenonville Brook or water streams.

A bit of history I like

The Bois de Boulogne is all that remains of the ancient forest of Rouvray, meaning “place planted with Oaks”, which is mentioned for the first time, in 717, in the Charter of Compiègne. The land was offered by king Childeric II to the mighty abbot of Saint-Denis, who built a large number of monasteries.  King Philippe Auguste buys the majority of the forest from the monks of Saint-Denis to create a hunting reserve on the royal lands. In 1256, Isabelle de France, sister of Saint Louis, founded the Royal Abbey of Longchamp.

The Bois de Boulogne takes its name from the Church of Notre-Dame-de-Boulogne-la-Petite (now Notre-Dame-des-Menus Church of Boulogne-Billancourt) which was built on the orders of Philippe le Bel following a pilgrimage that he had carried out with his daughter Isabelle of France in Boulogne-sur-Mer in 1308, while she was going to marry Edward II of England.  On his return, the king decided to raise a church similar to that which he had seen on the edges of the channel and which then housed a miraculous statue of the Virgin (the bolted building was at the site occupied nowadays by the present Basilica Notre-Dame-de-l’Immaculée-Conception). Wishing it near Paris in order to minimize  the pilgrimages, the king upon his return made to search for a land near the capital. It is finally chosen a small village of lumberjacks, Les Menuls lès Saint Cloud. From 1319 to 1320, the first stone of the church is put up, which is endowed with a gilded silver statue, in the image of the Virgin of Notre-Dame de Boulogne-sur-Mer. The church is blessed in 1330 by the Bishop of Paris Hugues II Michel de Besançon

During the Hundred Years ‘ War, the Forest became a den for brigands. After king  François I had built the castle of Madrid (begun in 1528) in the Bois de Boulogne, the spot became a place of festivities. The hunting grounds are surrounded by a wall under Henri II and Henri III, with eight doors. Henri IV  planted 15 000 mulberry trees, hoping to launch a local silk industry. His wife, Marguerite de Valois, once repudiated, withdrew to the Château de la Muette.

In November 1783, Pilâtre de Rozier and the Marquis of D’Arlandes succeeded in the first hot air balloon flight, built by the Montgolfier brothers, from the Chateau de la Muette. During the French revolutionary period, the forest was used as a refuge for people who had been hunted. In 1814 and 1815, 40 000 English and Russian camped there and ravaged the forest, so that under the restoration its reforestation and the restoration of the roads were started under the direction of the Baron d’André to end in 1830

In 1852, the property of the Bois de Boulogne was ceded by Napoleon III to the city of Paris, which was then responsible for landscaping the green space every four years. The work begins the following year. After the faults encountered by Haussmann, the replacements by the engineer Jean-Charles Alphaned (Parc Monceau, Montsouris, Bois de Vincennes) associated with the landscape designer Jean-Pierre Barrel-Deschamps (landscaper of the park of Buttes-Chaumont) makes changes. Only two straight alleys ,Longchamp and Reine  Marguerite are retained by the new team that transforms the Varé River into two lakes, with water retention in Lake Superior, the overflow pouring into the lower lake by the little (cascade) waterfall. A bridge connects the two islands.

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Between 1855 and 1858, Longchamp’s racecourse was built on the plain of the same name. At the same time, the tip of the forest located south of the Butte Mortemart, between the Rue des Princes in Boulogne (current rue Denfert-Rochereau and Rue des Princes) and the Avenue du Parc-des-princes at Auteuil is arranged by the Duc de Morny as part of a vast luxury real estate operation supervised by Baron Haussmann. During the siege of Paris of 1870, the forest was severely damaged by the Prussian artillery because the French artillery had a battery on the mound of Mortemart. In 1873, the Auteuil racecourse was inaugurated.

As said plenty to do here especially during daytime. The whole family will enjoy it as mine did over the years and still come to have dinner at the Pre-Catalan. There are the  Bagatelle Playground. Park, garden, promenade.etc. Garden of the Meadow Catelan. Park, garden, promenade.  Bagatelle Park-Paris Botanical Garden. . Garden of the greenhouses (Serres) of Auteuil-botanical garden of Paris. Park, garden, promenade. Bicycle rental at the entrance to the jardin d’Acclimmatation and at the Lower Lake Pier.  Rent a boat on the Lower lake.  More than fourteen dining points in the forest as well as numerous snack bars. Suitable for cycling with its 9.2 km of cyclo-tourist itineraries, and horseback riding with 28 km of cavalier tracks as well as numerous tracks for roller skating.

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To get here:  the Metro nearest stations are the Porte Maillot line 1,  Porte Dauphine line 2 and the Porte de Auteuil  line 10. RER: Stations Neuilly-porte Maillot, Avenue Foch, Avenue Henri Martin all on the RER C line. Driving to the Parking Les Boutiques  du Palais,  2 Place de la Porte Maillot , where you can take the petit train into the Jardin d’Acclimmatation , or as I always found free parking inside the forest by the pre Catalan Resto or the Fondation Louis Vuitton.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here are

City of Paris on the Bois de Boulogne

Tourist office of Paris on the Bois de Boulogne

Always fun with the family , it is a nice park garden even spent some leisure time here from just driving over the pont de Suresnes find a spot and have a chat lunch with collegues, sublime Paris it will be always eternal! Enjoy the ride!

Suresnes

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

 

 

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