Archive for ‘Bretagne’

December 10, 2017

My travels in the Morbihan, LI

Vannes VannesIt is another weekend in lovely Brittany in my dept 56 of Morbihan. Wintery weather is coming and at nights it goes down to zero Celsius or 32 Fahrenheit ,during the day it goes up to 10C or 50F cloudy , and today rain all day.  Now we have 6C or about 43F and raining lightly.

We had our regular errands day and stay close to home. We head out to get our bakery or boulangerie order for Christmas, all kinds of goodies including a Bûche de Noël cake! this is at our natural bakery boulangerie Delumeau in our town.

We continue to our favorite car dealer Ford Mustiére in Vannes where we are trying a deal (more later). As the negotiation took long and time to think about it; we continue to Vannes city center and got our wines,porto, madeira etc. This is at Nicolas in place du  poids public. Still time; so we headed to our cider provider at the distillerie du Gorvello in Sulniac road N165 exit 22 direction Sulniac. Here all is done homemade, the apples are next to the boutique and tours are given as well as tastings. We load up a case and some goodies to munch such as terrines of pork in algae!

We came back to the dealer and close the offer, now waiting for the bank approval which should be a piece of cake and hopefully will have a new by New Year’s!!!! More later….We stop by Auray to pick up some beers with the boys at V&B Océane, our regular hangout, before…..

On back to Vannes we stop at the fromagerie Kerouzine in place du poids public and got our three favorites cheeses from brie, blue cheese and goat. We took a ride a bit into the ramparts area to see the new laid out in old town, less cars more space for terraces and pedestrian areas! And we got some chocolates from Jeff de Bruges in our local shopping center Carrefour in Vannes.

We finish going home and stopping by the bakery again to get some macaroons at Delumeau. We reach home and onload and now the gang is watching TV and me in the blog lol!!!

I am waiting to watch a TV show call Echappées Belles in channel 5; that will show all about Dublin ,Ireland (been there see my post search for it). And tomorrow is Sunday so another chance of rest and try some of those ciders!!!!

Stay warm,be good, enjoy life, happy travels and be positive, life is beautiful.Cheers!!!

Ah some of the links for above sites:

http://www.pluvigner.fr/contacts/boulangerie-delumeau-2/

http://www.ford-vannes.com/

https://magasin.vandb.fr/766390-v-and-b-auray

http://www.distilleriedugorvello.fr/informations-pratiques/

http://www.fromagerie-kerouzine.fr/Contact.php

https://www.france.tv/france-5/echappees-belles/

http://magasins.jeff-de-bruges.com/chocolats/c-cial-vannes/C5607

Auray Pluvigner Pluvigner Sulniac Sulniac Vannes Vannes Vannes Vannes Vannes VAnnes Vannes

Tags: ,
December 4, 2017

Some news from France CLXXVII

And back to tell you all about my belle France. Times has change cold is here regularly now ,even some snow, but now back to 10C or about 50F and cloudy, the Autumn leaves looks beautiful on the shades. I am cruising for the Holiday season, and expect to go over the family in Seine-et-Marne dept 77 as well.

Now for the news here it is:

Météo France, of course the weather is in the news! Now it is estimated to be back next weekend as well; it will start next Friday to Sunday period. Therefore, if driving in France like me be careful of the icy roads. Méteo France here:  http://www.meteofrance.com/accueil

And you may have heard, read, watch the troubles again with the SNCF signalization and automation system at the train station or gare Montparnasse. A new system to allow control more platforms and more trains arriving. There were delays as much as four hours and the SNCF do reimburse you for lateness, see photo. The trains to Tarbes, Poitiers, Brest and Bordeaux were all late at least an hour! The issue was the same for the local express train TER and the Intercités ; to Le Mans, Granville to  Montparnasse. The situation is said to be under control but this is the second time in a short period that it has happened. So keep an eye on your travels by Montparnasse if need to / I know I go by there now but lucky no more for the rest of the year ! More here http://www.leparisien.fr/info-paris-ile-de-france-oise/gare-montparnasse-trafic-tres-perturbe-apres-une-panne-de-signalisation-03-12-2017-7430418.php
SNCF reimbursement

Gregory Porter, the jazz great is given a free concert in the auditorium of the Paris newspaper Le Parisien today at 10 rue Grenelle at 14h30. His last CD album entitled « Nat King Cole and me », honoring the legend Nat King Cole that he uses as a idol model. He has done work with the English pop group Metronomy, and concerts in festivals like the « Rock en Seine » in Saint-Cloud (Hauts-de-Seine), and recently at the Chorus in Nanterre (Hauts-de-Seine).  More here:  http://www.bluenote.com/spotlight/gregory-porter-nat-king-cole-me

How about getting into the Seine river at 8C or about 44F in the water and 0C or 32F out! Well I won’t do it but these folks did it last Sunday morning on a paddle ski in the event  Stand Up Paddle. There were 700 participants from the BNF (bibliothéque national de France) all the way to the Tour Eiffel  on the occasion of the 8th edition of the  Nautic Sup Paris Crossing, the biggest course in the world of this specialty. The Nautic event will continue to December 10 2017. More here: https://www.salonnautiqueparis.com/fr/visiter/les-animations/nautic-sup-paris-crossing

The beautiful square  place Clémenceau (8éme),with a wonderful statue of the Général de Gaulle on the side of the Petit Palais is back.  Newly clean sits there for all to see, the only statue of him officially authorized by the family. See it and read on it here: http://www.paristoric.com/index.php/paris-d-hier/statues/autres-statues/3161-la-statue-du-general-de-gaulle

The honey is in at several locations in Paris. Even my group company has ruche in our roofstop and make some for the employees. Now the winner of the contest of honey of the Grand Paris in the 27th Salon de Terroirs ,are from the town of Rueil-Malmaison, (Hauts de Seine 92) ,event held at the racecourse of Saint-Cloud. The harvest is done for  6 years already on a dozen ruches installed around the cemetery of Rueil, and produce about 150 kg per year!. The bees work at their own pace between the flowers of the cemetery , and the forest of Saint-Cloud. More here: http://www.salon-terroir-rueil.com/page/animations

A wonderful digital project is taken place to preserve the information on the fallen in World War I, known here affectionally as the poilu or hairy. It is call « Adoptez un poilu », or adopt a hairy; going on since December 2016 on the archives of the department 78 of Yvelines.  Done on the celebration honoring the Great War or WWI soldiers as they will give new meaning to them. Each participant will have a trace, a history of their efforts and all done by volunteers. Once this work done, it will be kept in perpetual memory for all those who fought from the old department name of Yvelines such as Seine-et-Oise (Yvelines, Essonne, Hauts-de-Seine, Seine-Saint-Denis and Val-d’Oise). They have already done 82 000 files and need 235 000 and hope to have it all done by November 2018 just in time for the big commemoration of  the 100 year anniversary. The site is in French with a very nice video here: https://www.yvelines-infos.fr/commemoration-de-grande-guerre-adoptez-poilu/

The Kiev in Paris the biggest artistic expression from Kiev are in Paris until next Sunday for the second edition of the festival « Un week-end à l’est ». It is time for the Ukraine to be the guest of honor in Saint-Germain-des-Prés with projections, expositions, lectures, debates, concerts and workshops in the 12 sites of the neighborhood. More in French here: http://www.weekendalest.com/

And let’s talk about Champagne because their biggest time of the year is near; Christmas and New Year period.

One of the grand old brands is the one most favorite of the French, that is ,Ruinart , and this end 2017 is coming out with two special cuvees from their cellars in Reims. They are the Dom Ruinart blanc de blancs 2006 ,and the Dom Ruinart rosé 2004.  Both are aged from than 10 years. You can find them here: https://www.ruinart.com/fr-e/les-vins/dom-ruinart-2006

Veuve Clicquot , the house of the pantone label (Pantone 137C) the most recognizable brand of Champagne. you can tell the bottle right away no matter where. Another of my favorites and you can know more about it here https://www.veuveclicquot.com/fr-fr/nos-champagnes/champagne-brut-carte-jaune

And my favorite and share with family many times is Moët & Chandon , the leader of the brands of Champagne. No 1 in volume and now a new bottle the Moët Ice Impérial. One of my first visited housed of Champagne in the avenue de Champagne in Epernay. More here: https://fr.moet.com/Champagnes-Moet/Moet-Ice-Imperial

OF course, will tell you my first and most memorable Champagne, the one I drank with my girlfriend (now wife) in Paris was Mercier, now part of the same group as Moët & Chandon, the LVMH group. Also, still at Avenue de Champagne in Epernay; more here: http://www.champagnemercier.fr/en/champagne-mercier-brut

And now an anecdote for the road warriors in us::)It used to take 13 minutes to drive the expressway from west to east of Paris that was 60 KPH when it opened in 1967; it was not called yet the voie Georges Pompidou but it was very good to avoid 23 bridges and many red lights doing it going under 7 underground ways. Today, the same road going at 70 KPH will take you 57 minutes from the start of the wharfs or quai de Bercy from the Porte de Saint-Cloud! Of course, assuming there is no traffic jams or special events going on lol!!!

And be merrier in the season with the opportunity to come to those ice skating rings going on at this time in Paris and elsewhere. The ones I have seen and my boys like the most previous years are:

Trocadéro On Ice ; the most romantic at the end of the day and before going for dinner come here for a spin facing the iron lady (Tour Eiffel) an ice skating ring of  300 m2, very nice. Going on from December 21st to January 8th on every day from 11h to 21h. Go in by the  Jardins du Trocadéro – 16éme. Together with a nice Christmas market; more in French here:  https://www.evous.fr/Trocadero-on-Ice-Le-village-de,1142457.html

The rooftop or  toit de la Grande Arche  going on from December 15 to January 14 ,you can come in costume too ,and a panoramic view of 360° of Paris. Skating between the towers of the Grande Arche. More in French here: http://www.ladefense.fr/en/agenda/une-patinoire-sur-le-toit-de-la-grande-arche

The ice skating in the forum des Halles is another popular one. It has the biggest Christmas market at Châtelet, around the fountain or fontaine des Innocents. Grab some hot wine and on the floor, ice skating that is. It will be from December 15 to January 14 with times differences on December 15 from 14h to 19h ; December 16-17 from 11h to 19h and December 18-22 from 14h to 19h and December 23 to January 14 from 11h to 19h; entrance by 101, rue Porte Berger – 1éme.  More here: http://forumdeshalles.com/access

The patinoire du Champ-de-Mars or ice skating under the Tour Eiffel with a nice smallish this year village de Noël or Christmas market with cabins, chalets and of course the ice skating on the  Champ-de-Mars. It will be from December 21th to January 8 2018. Entrance at Champ-de-Mars / 2, allée Adrienne Lecouvreur – 7éme: more here: https://quefaire.paris.fr/40055/le-village-de-noel-du-champs-de-mars

And those looking for the Christmas market on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées look no more there won’t any due to dispute between the organizer’s and the city of Paris. Always looking to get more money from all. However, there are many all over the city, these are. In French: https://quefaire.paris.fr/38452/les-marches-de-noel-parisiens

What the city of Paris is doing is encouraging more natural stuff like beers !!! The city has a project on the harvesting of hops. The city has given about 10 sites to encourage this culture of harvesting. The idea is to plant in Spring and have the first harvest in September 2018; this to do a good Parisian beer. Others have taken the same idea further like the roof or  toits de l’Opéra Bastille that will host a hops maker and a microbrewery to produce about 8000 liters of beer. We can already talk about the Chai de Bercy,  another project to help create microbreweries in Paris , more of this brewery is at Brasserie éphémére du Chai de Bercy, 41 rue Paul-Belmondo, 12éme : and more info on this city of Paris initiative here:  https://www.paris.fr/actualites/appel-a-projet-pour-la-culture-du-houblon-a-paris-5317

Now let’s talk about an area of Paris with few tourists, because it is chic , residential and nice. My favorite area of Paris indeed; just for the ambiance, the cachet, and the good stuff found there many firsts for me and still go there. A bit of well more of the chic 16 arrondissement de Paris.

In about 20 years all the tendance chic of Paris was done on the east side. About 10 years it went to the North, and today it comes back to the west of  Paris. The sixteen or 16 district or arrondissement of Paris is up and well the chic area of Paris not now but made famous now again.  Call it the Snob, new rich or worse the new intellectual and artistic elites had left for the 10éme or 11éme and more daring to the 19éme and 20éme.  However, the embassies, museums, monuments, restaurants and cafés with terraces, the merchants and the street life, the parks, and gardens all dominated by the tour Eiffel; you are looking for a chic way of life, high class, excellent schools and peaceful living away from the noise of the city because the 16éme is a little Paris all by itself and it is big abuot 8 square kilometers  divided in two, south and north with each their own postal code. And divided encore into four neighborhood as Etoile-Trocadéro, Passy, Auteuil and Dauphine.(Paris has 20 districts or arrondissement and 80 neighborhoods or quartiers or 4 by district).

You can do a walk or tour on the Palais de Tokyo,in the marines museum or musée de la Marine ,and end with a dinner on the restaurant du Café de L’homme with its panoramic view of the Tour Eiffel.  The Wednesdays and Saturdays come to the avenue du Président Wilson,to do the market days with colorful stands to mingle with locals and tourists alike. All visitors dreaming of living in one of the apartments overlooking the Seine river and its quais as well as the tour Eiffel.  The Troca as we call it or Trocadéro is full of life with skaters of all ages on the esplanade, terraces cafés with full of students, Parisians and tourists.  There is always a line at Carette for its macaroons famous since 1927, the most sold in the world today!  The young likes to mingle around rue de Passy, for shopping where all the majors brands are.

If New-York has it’s Central Park (been there), Paris ,and more specifically the 16éme has the Bois de Boulogne ,and like the 846 hectares of the woods are not enough the gardeners has planted trees on the big arteries of the district such as the avenue Henri Martin, avenue George Mandel, avenue Foch (the biggest avenue in the city!), boulevard Flandrin,  boulevard Suchet, square Lamartine (with the famous water fountain drinkable! The parc Bagatelle and its flowers, the jardin du Ranelagh (lovely with a statue to La Fontaine) full of families and the prestigious theater or Théâtre de Guignol and its old swings , the greenhouse or  serres d’Auteuil,and its botanical garden or jardin botanique, and the wonderful Jardin d’Acclimatation for the pleasure of kids of all generations of Parisians (mine love it several times in it) , and now the biggest building there the Fondation Louis Vuitton.  The 16éme is the perfect harmony of city and nature.

For the lovers of sports, nothing to stop you from a Sunday morning baskets or jogging around the inferior lake in the Bois de Boulogne or  Lac intérieur du Bois. You can drink wonderful water at the Chalet des Iles (you can access by barge or small boats).  The nice municipal pool Molitor now better and modern has reopen its doors and pool.  The lovers of tennis are in high ground at the Roland Garros or give a shot at the stadium or Stade Jean Bouin.  There are cabins in the Parc des Princes as well.  There are many private roads and mansion houses hiding gorgeous gardens; the mansions or villa Montmorency, villa Saïd , and villa Dupont will make you dream to buy one. The busy shopping streets always vibrant and good neighborhood ambiance such as at rue d’Auteuil, rue de la Pompe ,and  rue de l’Annonciation. Chic my favorite, the 16 is it for Paris,eternal, for lovers of life and beauty. Enjoy it; Cheers.

Have a great start of the week, we are already in December and the season to be merrier is here. Happy Holidays to all.

November 28, 2017

Some news from France CLXXVI

Here it is another post and this one on the first I would say cold day in Brittany, 1C and already prognosticating snow in the adjacent department 35 Ile et Vilaine!!! It will be a cold next few days but nothing compare to my life’s experiences ::)

Back on telling you all about my belle France. Lots of things happening in the Hexagone ::)

The  métro Châtelet, line 4 will be closed until March 7 2018 due to installations of facades, the train will continue onwards without stopping here in Châtelet.  The access to the line 4 here will be done above ground in the stations  Cité about 600 meters and Les Halles  at about 450 meters . To helps the riders towards the line 4 the metro and RER lines of the hub Châtelet-Les Halles the RATP Paris transport authority advice you to take the station at Les Halles.

The know it all book about Paris is out. The « le Hillairet » is already in bookstores; published for the first time in 1956 the work  «Connaissance du vieux Paris » by Jacques Hillairet  has just been re edited by publisher Payot.  It is organise in two parts Rive droite/Rive gauche,and it shows neighborhood by neighborhood or quartiers, streets, and building numbers, a radiography historical and architecturally of Paris . It will be a huge information tool to really know  Paris by the visitors and locals alike. I have an older copy in the family and it is a bible of Paris info. The current book sells for 29€ and has 816 pages.

For instance it tells you about the street or rue des Francs-Bourgeois (4éme), a very popular artery in the Marais linking the rue Rambuteau to the place des Vosges.  In the Middle Ages this street between the rue Vieille du Temple and rue  Payenne,  was called the rue des Poulies ; meaning the pulleys used by the weavers fabric makers that lived here in the 16C and house in the poor homes of frank folks exempted from taxes and impositions. It, also, became a site of prostitution and homeless ,even if the house was eventually closed the name persists until 1868.

At no 25 rue des francs bourgeois  is the seat of the historical library of the city of Paris  or  bibliothèque historique de la ville de Paris since 1969,at the hotel de Lamoignon,  also called the Hôtel d’Angoulême, purchased in 1584 by Diane de France, Duchesse of Angouleme.  She died here at age 81 in 1619. In 1658, Guillaume de Lamoignon, first President of the Parliament of Paris lived here; and from 1867 to 1874, the writer Alphonse Daudet ,also lived.  In 1928, the city of Paris buys the property.  It has a wonderful architectural touch in its square arch that extends from the roof at the angle of the rue des Francs-Bourgeois  and the rue Pavée, that was used to keep vigil on the street.  The type of preservation we owed to André Malraux,creator of the law of August 4 1962 that protects and preserves the old values of France.

For those looking for bargains and big names in Paris head for Violette Sauvage . She finds good deals on her clothing market where you can buy previously wearer clothing for all tastes and pocketbooks.  Names such as Sandro, Maje, Claudie Pierlot or Comptoir des cotonniers,  H & M , Primark ,Zara, Mango, usually 2 to 3 times cheaper than on stores. Also, the Louis Vuitton, Zadig et Voltaire etc. IN two days about 3000 persons come in to try and buy here and even pay with bank cards (no checks). The  next event is Saturday and Sunday December 2-3 from 11h to 19h at the Palais de la Femme, (home of the  Salvation Army), 94, rue de Charonne, 11éme. Admission is 2€. More info here:  http://www.violettesauvage.fr/

The salvation army for directions is here: https://www.armeedusalut.fr/etablissements/pdf

The famous French pastry or choux pastry  is in mode in Paris nowdays; and the two best in my opinion are

Here at Odette ,you have boutiques in neat corners at the street level in the building of the 16C in the heart of the Montorgueil neighborhood. Here the choux of Frédéric Berthy  have an air of madeleines of Proust, souvenirs of childhood from his grandmother Odette. See it at  Odette  7, rue Galande (5éme) every day from 10h30 to 19h30 at  18, rue Montorgueil (Iéme) from Mondays to Fridays and midday to 19h30 ,the weekends hours are from 10h to 19h30. More info here: http://www.odette-paris.com/#le-salon

And at Popelini, while making in error the recipe that the Italian pastrymaker did in the renaissance of 1540 the hot choux becomes the favorite dessert of his bossCatherine de Médicis.  The house proposed about 15 flavors and 6 house choux unique each day from the classic chocolate and vanilla to the less known such as pop-corn or strawberry Tagada.  The season flavors are on order like the current noisette,(hazelnut). Boutiques located at  29, rue Debelleyme, (3éme), 44, rue des Martyrs (9éme), 35, rue de Turenne (3éme) ,and  71, rue de Seine (6éme) More info here: https://popelini.com/

Teh prize French Heritage Society-Dallas et Northern California Chapters 2017  has been attributed to the Château de Versigny  for their project of restoration in the courtyard or  cour d’honneur , and the park or parc.  This prize prime the actions taken in the last 20 years for the maintenance and safekeeping of the Château de Versigny. The French Heritage Society (FHS) is an American association non profit that helps restore the French heritage in France and the USA as well as the cultural exchange between the two countries.  As such , the  FHS  and its American chapters help the work of restorations by way of several French associations.  This particular work is also funded by the  DRAC, of the departemental council of the region of Oise.  More here : http://www.versigny.com/

And the FHS, https://frenchheritagesociety.org/

And something familiar from near family grounds, Cambrai is celebrating a famous WWI battle crucial to the allies. The 100th anniversary of the battle of Cambrai that took place between November 20 and December 7 1917. When for the first time tanks were used in war with about 500 of them by the allies. After initially piercing the enemy lines due to the element of surprise the counter offensive was terrible by the Germans. The losses were about 45000 for the British soldiers holding the positions and 55000 by the Germans. More on this commemoration here: http://www.amazing-cambrai.com/cambrai17

You should ask to take a peek of vineyards in Paris! At the school or Institut Cloriviére, 119 blvd Diderot 12éme; it has a 200 m2 vineyards of 100 pieds and 17 grapes varieties right in the building of the Fondation Eugene Napoléon a building from the 19C  since 2007 and on which the first planting took place in December 2013! More at the school here: http://www.cloriviere.paris/isc/

The foundation that helps preserves the memory of the Imperatrice Eugénie of France is here: http://fondation-eugenenapoleon.org/

Marie Curie, une femme au Panthéon  this is the showing on the scienfic work of Marie Curie as well as her private life of the first women who won the Nobel prize. In the occasion of her 150th anniversary the museum or  Musée Curie  and the National center of monuments of France is holding this exposition in her honor in the Panthéon, you should not miss this one going on until March 4 2018 at the Pantheon,  Place du Panthéon – (5éme). More on the museum in French here: http://musee.curie.fr/visiter/evenements/marie-curie-150e-anniversaire

And you know the Panthéon: http://www.paris-pantheon.fr/en/Prepare-for-your-visit/Practical-information#access

And you have the exposition ,Gaughin, l’alchimiste  in the Grand Palais.  Come to see the secrets of a painter of the 19C in the process of creation retracing the career of the artist until the island or îles Marquises.  Until January 22  2018 3, the Grand Palais is at  avenue du Général-Eisenhower -(8éme). More here: http://www.grandpalais.fr/en/event/gauguin-alchemist

You have the Incas of Peru at the museum  Quai Branly , one of the first societies dating from at least 1500 years AD, in this exposition at the Quai Branly you will retrace their history, and the traces of the oldest cultures in the north of Peru.  The exposition studies the origins and organisation of the old societies in searching in the two celestial gods , the kings the elite and the urban lords, the warriors and the priests who held the most power ? How it manifest itself? All showing until April 1, 2018 at the museum located at  37 quai Branly -(7éme).  More here: http://www.quaibranly.fr/en/exhibitions-and-events/at-the-museum/exhibitions/event-details/e/le-perou-avant-les-incas-37626/

And the season to be merrier is near; and on a shop the stylist Marcia de Carvalho teaches the basis of sewing.  You will be able to create guirlandes from used materials thanks to the orphelin socks idea. You can choose your pattern, cuts, and bordering you decide all. The shop is call an  Atelier couture de Noël  or a Christmas sewing shop , open November 29 from 14h30 to 16h30 and December 7th from 18h to 20h; Wednesday December 13 from 14h30 to 16h30 at  Chez Marcia de Carvalho 2, rue des Gardes – (18éme) One parent and one child for 34€ and one parent and two children fro 50€. More information here: https://www.marciadecarvalho.fr/contact/

Go to the Ferme de Paris for a bio shop very local and gourmand. You can taste  dry vegetables and fruits of winter  and edible decoration creations.  This is a free atelier shop but you need reservations. the Déco comestible de Noël will be on Wednesday December 6 from 14h to 16h30 at the Ferme de Paris 1, route du Pesage – (12éme)  ;more info here: http://www.vincennes-tourisme.fr/Decouvrir/Bois-de-Vincennes-et-ses-alentours/La-Ferme-de-Paris

Why not create your own chocolates, the Thursday December 14 all your chocolates fairies can come thru and share with those you like. The Atelier chocolat de Noël will be on from 19h to 21h at Fika, l’atelier pâtisserie de Julia 55 bis, grande rue Charles de Gaulle – 92600 Asnières-sur-Seine ; metro 1 to reach gare st lazare and then train direction Asniére sur Seine, participation of 65€/person. More here:  http://www.fika-paris.com/event/atelier-chocolats-de-noel/

Do you know the art of packaging Japanese? For gift giving, for the holidays, you can come here to discover it with the paper tissue Furoshiki. By this technique ancestral you will have the best looking gift wrapping under the Christmas tree.  The Atelier Furoshiki will be on Saturday December 16 at 16h in the library or Bibliothèque Rainer Maria Rilke at 88 ter, boulevard de Port-Royal -(5éme) Free with reservation at tel +33 (0) 1 56 81 10 70 or email  bibliotheque.rainer-maria.rilke@paris.fr

More info on the library here: http://equipement.paris.fr/bibliotheque-rainer-maria-rilke-1672

and how about these places to see Paris from above!!!

At the 6th floor (7 us) you have the Le  Perchoir dominating Ménilmontant, with cocktail bars , yoya courses, done on the roof terrace  summer or winter with views of the basilica of  Sacré-Cœur. Le Perchoir 14, rue Crespin-du-Gast – (11éme)  Métro Ménilmontant. more here: https://leperchoir.tv/en/

The smaller sibling is at the 7 floor (8 us) on the rooftops of the store BHV Marais. Offering wonderful views of the tour Eiffel, Seine river , the city hall or hôtel de Ville ,and others.  In winter you have a Danish mood until 01h30 (1:30 am) . Le Perchoir du Marais 33, rue de la Verrerie – (4éme) Métro Hôtel de Ville. More here: http://www.bhv.fr/en/store-news/le-perchoir-marais/

An old favorite,in the Centre  Pompidou with a panoramic view of Paris. Two levels on escalators and two expo rooms. Talking about the Le Georges at the Palais Beaubourg, Place Georges Pompidou -(4éme) Métro Rambuteau. more here: http://restaurantgeorgesparis.com/fr/

if we can dream with a glass of Champagne on the 8th floor (9th us) of the Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, you will be delighted seeing the rooftops of Paris. This winter the Cube Bar becomes the  Ice Cube Bar ! at  40, boulevard Haussmann – (9éme) Métro Chaussée d’Antin – La Fayette. More here: https://haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/cube-bar-le-bar-de-la-terrasse/

One of the old favorites now change do not know if better or worse not been to the new one. This is the Ex-Nüba, now Communion  on top of the Cité de la Mode, between suspended markets, concerts, and DJ sets no reason to stop once winter arrives.  Communion 36, quai d’Austerlitz – (13éme) Métro Gare d’Austerlitz. More here: http://communion.paris/

And now back to nostalgia. Who does not love the passages de Paris? However, do you know the many small ones dotting the city? Aside from the most and better known, here are some of my favorite mignons, cute passages of Paris. Using a site I use that is very good on all about Paris tidbits Parisrues.

We can call it the world of passages but this charming passage of many colors decorated with several flags of countries of our world a gift of the flag of bees or Abeille drapeaux, that are done in one shop at no 6. This is the  Passage Geoffroy-Didelot  at Rue des Dames -(17éme). More here: http://www.parisrues.com/rues17/paris-17-passage-geffroy-didelot.html

This is one of my fav areas of Paris. It is partially covered but it works too. A historical spot that houses woodworkers shops in the what is today a beehive of furniture makers. This is the  Passage du Chantier at 66, rue du Faubourg-Saint-Antoine – (12éme). More here: http://www.parisrues.com/rues12/paris-12-passage-du-chantier.html

Here you have the house of poetry or Maison de la Poésie. The others are cute and nice full of history and Paris cachet , this is the Passage Molière – (2éme), 157 rue Saint-Martin. More here: http://www.parisrues.com/rues03/paris-03-passage-moliere.html

The small but equally cute is the Passsage de l’Ancre , 223, rue Saint-Martin, (4 éme) behind a blue door . More here: http://www.parisrues.com/rues03/paris-03-passage-de-l-ancre.html

And you have two back to back here; running parallel to the street or rue de Charonne the passage Alexandrine (11éme)  is bordered not by cactus but pots of flowers all along the passageway.  Other like hortensias in bamboo and even laurier are flank one to the other.  A short few steps from here you can see the pretty  passage Lepeu, also very romantic,  with flowers and greens decorations. More here: http://www.parisrues.com/rues11/paris-11-passage-alexandrine.html

And here: http://www.parisrues.com/rues11/paris-11-passage-gustave-lepeu.html

Last one ,but not the least, we come near the Bastille and the  passage Lhomme hardly seen if you have not read it here first . The street is paved and retro into the 1900 Paris giving you the impression of walking in a small village of Brittany. It is at 26, rue de Charonne – (11éme). Find it here: http://www.parisrues.com/rues11/paris-11-passage-lhomme.html

And then something to come and believe useful for those thinking/dreaming of coming over to France. A new low cost airline and now expanding, LEVEL. Next July 2018 it will start flights from Paris Orly airport to Montreal, Guadeloupe, Martinique, and Liberty airport Newark New Jersey!! my old airport out of college worked there for a while lol!!  Yes I am older than you think ::)   The tickets are on sale already for 129€ to Newark and 99€ to the other spots. the airline is Level and will do the flights using Airbus A330-200 with 293 seats in tourist class, and 21 in Tourist class premium. The latter ones will include luggage, food, and seat reservation, as well as access to internet on the plane for 8,99€. It is expected that OpenSkies will stop flying next summer and the staff join Level. The low cost airline webpage is here: https://www.flylevel.com/en

November 26, 2017

My best restaurants of Brittany, Bretagne!!!

A few years back , I started a post on my best restaurants in France,  Paris and then of Versailles only etc. Well ,I have been a few years already in Brittany, gone to many restaurants, and will like to tell you about my better ones. Of course , always check for availability and times, and these are only the ones I think were good.

All of them are in my previous posts on the particular city or area I wrote, and they will be in no chronological order, the webpages will be found online, and some of them will be from National and International chains. I hope that as the season to be merrier is coming along , you find your way to enjoy one of the them while visiting very Christmas followed territory like Brittany.

La Boucherie, zone océane 3 ,rue de Danemark, Auray 56400

La Boucherie, Rue du Gay Lussac, Zone du Parc lann, Vannes 56000

Le Bistro du Port, 7 place Saint Sauveur, Saint Goustan, Auray 56400

L’Armoric, 1 Place Saint Sauveur , Saint Goustan, Auray 56400

Restaurant La Fromentine, 10 rue du Chateau, Auray 56400

Au Coin du Feu, D768, Camors 56330

Crêperie Saint Sauveur, port de Saint-Goustan, 6 rue Saint-Sauveur, Auray 56400

Le Grand Voyageurs Hôtel restaurant ,facing Ville Close ,Concarneau  29182

Kreiz An Aval, 1 avenue de la chapelle, Carnac 56340

Restaurant Le Cosy, 2 rue Saint Cornély, Carnac 56340

A l’Aise Breizh Café, Port de Plaisance du Moulin Blanc, Brest 29200

A l’Aise Breizh Café, Port de Plaisance, le port (above harbormaster house) Vannes 56000

La Gazzetta (italien) 4 rue de Siam, Brest 29200

Da Franco (Italien) 18 place Edouard Vaillant, Douarnenez 29100

Le Lion d’Or , 5 place Adrien Le Franc, Elven 56250

La Villa Toscane ,15 Place Jaffré, Guidel 56520

La Moule que Saoûle , Centre Commercial la Falaise, Guidel plages 56520

Le Guéthenoc, 11 place Notre Dame, Josselin 56120

L’Escale Hôtel Restaurant le port (harbor) facing the ocean, Locmariaquer 56740

Hôtel Restaurant Les Voyageurs, 10 rue de Cadélac, Loudeac 22600

La Terrace, 31 place des Otages, Morlaix 29600

O’Brothers 7 quai des Cabestans, Arzon 56640

Le Voilier, 8 quai des Voiliers, Arzon 56640

Les Trois Etoiles, ZA de Tréhuinec , D779 road Plescop 56890

Crêperie de l’Enclos ,51 place du Général de Gaulle, Pleyben 29190

Crêperie du Chateau de Rimaison, 6 rue de la Gare, Pluvigner 56330

Crêperie Restaurant Le Vorlen ,rue de la Gare, (across from above) Pluvigner 56330

Restaurant Le Martray, 32 rue du Pont/Place du Matray, Pontivy 56300

L’Aiglon, 42 du Général de Gaulle, Pontivy 56300

Restaurant Crêperie du Pont Fleuri, 5 rue Ellé, Basse ville, Quimperlé 29300

Restaurant bar Les Cariatides, 4 rue du Quéodet, Quimper 29000

La Taverne de  Maître Kanter, 14 quai du Steïr, Quimper 29000

Back to the 60’s American Diner, 58 rue de St Malo, Rennes 35000

Café Hoche, 15 place Hoche, Quiberon, 56170

Le Vivier (seafood), Côte Sauvage, Quiberon 56170

Au Goüt du Jour, 5 rue St Michel, Pluvigner 56330

Pizzeria Le Scampi, 11 Place du Marché, Pluvigner 56330

Crêperie des Bés, 4 rue Thévenard, St Malo 35400

Crêperie La Metairie de Kéroser, Allée de Kerozer, Saint Avé 56890

Crêperie Les Ajoncs, 4 rue de Vannes, Saint-Anne d’Auray

La Pataterie, ZAC Parc Lann, Rue Gay Lussac, Vannes 56000

Le Scoop bar brasserie, 60 rue Théophaste Renaudot, ZAC Kerlann , Vannes 56000

Le Gavroche, 17 rue de la Fontaine, Vannes 56000

Don Camillo Pizzeria, 20 rue du port, Vannes 56000

Les Remparts, 6 rue Alexandre le Pontois, Vannes 56000

Restaurant Anna & Paul, 23 Place du Général de Gaulle, Vannes 56000

Balade en Crepanie, 21 rue de la Fontaine, Vannes 56000

Chez la Mére 6 sous, 11 rue Thomas de Closmadeuc Vannes 56000

La Saigonnaise, 2 place de la Madeleine, Vannes 56000

Les Oliviers, 60 avenue du Verdun, Vannes 56000

Villa Valencia, 3 rue Bienheureux P Rene Rogue, Vannes 56000

Le Petit Belon, 3 place de la poissonnerie, Vannes 56000

Crêperie de la Tour Trompette, 4 rue Venelle, Vannes 56000

Le Gambetta, 1 place Gambetta, Vannes 56000

Lecocq & Folks, 5 rue Saint Vincent, Vannes 56000

Restaurant Poivre Rouge, Rue Aristide Boucicaut, Vannes 56000

TablaPizza, ZAC du Parc Lann, 6 rue Jacques Rueff, Vannes 56000

L’Orée des Monts, 5 place Charles de Gaulle, Sizun 29450

Pizzeria del Castello , 5 rue Maréchal Joffre, Hennebont, 56700

 brasserie Le Carré  15 place Aristide Briand ,Lorient 56100

Café Breton , 8 rue du Porche, Rochefort-en-Terre 56220

Ok these are the ones I like, no particular order, and only those I kept a business card ::) the rest if missed , are on the posts lol!!! I think you have plenty to choose thus…… bon appétit, and drink wines, cider, beers all in moderation , good for the economy and the traditions of France. Unesco World Heritage Intangible lists :Gastronomic meals; Cheers!

PS. I added some photos and dare to put some personal ones as well. No copying please, thanks.

Dinan Brest Concarneau Quimper Pont Aven Landerneau Douradenenez Quimperle Plougastel Dauolas Dinard Rennes Auray Auray Auray Auray Carnac Elven Guidel plage Hennebont Josselin La Gacilly La Roche Bernard La Trinite sur Mer Larmor Baden Le Roc St Andre Locmariaquer Locmariaquer Lorient LE Govello Plescop Plumelec Pontivy Quiberon Quiberon Quiberon Quiberon Rochefort en Terre Port du Crouesty  St Gildas de Rhuys Pluvigner  Vannes  Vannes  Vannes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

November 26, 2017

Historical Clisson!!! , Loire Atlantique dept 44!! Pays de la Loire!

So as told yesterday, we did a whole day at maximum satisfaction level. Once we were finished with our errands locally, we set the wheels to Clisson, in the Loire Atlantique dept 44 ,Pays de la Loire region and some wines ,muscadet!

The town sits in the middle of the muscadet vineyards of Nantes but more importantly for the historically correct, it was part of the Brittany I now live. or Bretagne in French or Breizh in Breton ::) It became part of Brittany in 851AD with the treaty of Angers between king Charles the Bold of France and Erispoë, king of Brittany. So ,therefore, need to tell you a bit of history here, my treat!!!  The town took active part in the war of succession and the 100 years war. During the War of Succession of Brittany Olivier IV de Clisson was an active part on the side of the Dukedom of Brittany as a consequence was beheaded in the Halles of Paris after been accused of discussions for intervention with the king of  England Edward III. During the 100 years war his son Olivier V de Clisson was a key participant.

During the French revolution ,the Vendée wars against it took the valley of Clisson in total destruction. The revolutionary convention decided in 1793 to make obligatory the men to conscribe to the army ,however Clisson refuse the recruitment ,and with the insurrection started on March 10 1793. The rebel Vendéens took over Clisson on the same month and by May the Republicans ( French revolutionary as in the French Republic of today) entered the town and started the first massacre of people and burned the houses. This did not spare the Castle also burned; it got worse when the so call infernal columns occupied Clisson in 1794 with more massacres of the population; the town is completely destroyed and whoever was left leaves the town as well. Later , exiled Nantaise from Italy come back and decided to lived in Clisson by 1798, Pierre (painter)  and François (diplomat) Cacault and later a friend François-Frédéric Lemot is pulls into living in the town as well and acquired the Garenne or a hunting park of the castle and old hunting grounds of the Lords of Clisson in 1805 and later purchased the castle in 1807.  Here starts the rehabilitation of the town and the look you see today in many of its facades takes you back to Italy.

We visited by car after several months of talk by a colleague at work and me passing by it on my trips to Spain, this time there was a wine tasting fairs and well it was the right time to try the town with the family. We set out on the N165 past Nantes taking the A844/N844  taking exit 38 briefly on the A11 (free) and taking exit 44 for the N249 direction Clisson, you get off at the D763 direction Mouzillon/Clisson , it becomes the D149 entering Clisson right into the rue des Halles pedestrian street where there is a square for parking ,place St Jacques.

There are many things to see here but with our time (as usual on the run) we visited the Castle, Church of Notre Dame, and the Halles or covered market.

the Castle of Clisson was part of the family of Clisson (lords) since the 12C and by the 15C was a strategic point in the borders with the Dukedom of Brittany.  From a wooden castle it became a stone castle ; it was part of Olivier V de Clisson ,then the last Duke of Brittany , François II is very attached to the castle where he marries Marguerite de Foix ; Anne de Bretagne  was their first and heritage daughter!! From 1807 it belongs to Lemot until his death in 1827, the castle stays in ruins until finally purchase by the regional council in 1962; it is still in renovation but very slow, never got back after been ransacked and burned during the French revolution. The castle has a 3€ admission and several divided hours and months such as closed in January, opens 14h to 17h30 in February, March, and April every day except Tuesdays; 10h30 to 18h every day on May and June ; 10h30 to 18h in July, August every day. 10h30 to 18h in September every day. 14h to 17h30 October, November, and December every day; all day closing on November 1st and 11th as well as December 25th and 31st. More here in English with a very nice video: https://grand-patrimoine.loire-atlantique.fr/jcms/visit-our-sites/chateau-de-clisson/chateau-de-clisson-en-p2_201590?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoO2ew__b1wIVFBIbCh1Bng10EAAYASAAEgKQA_D_BwE

And from Nantes tourism in English too: https://www.nantes-tourisme.com/en/heritage/chateau-de-clisson

 

The Church of Notre Dame has a beautiful façade inspired on the Gesu of Rome. At Place Notre Dame. Built at the same spot as the old Collegiale Church burned at the French revolution. The new Church is from the 19C following Italian design. It has a Tuscan bell tower with a huge wonderful fresco painting of 1930. You have two wonderful Chapels of the Christ and Virgin: and can get nice views over the city such as the Castle ,  the terrace of the Hotel  Best Western Villa St Antoine,the viaduct, the terrace of the mansion Villa Lemot, and the bridge or pont de Nid d’Oie. worth a detour indeed. A nice webpage on it from an association on art and culture in French here: http://www.clissonhistoireetpatrimoine.fr/eglise-notre-dame/

Then, you can see the Les Halles or covered market ,there is renovation ongoing but a very nice place right in center town. They were built in the 15C on orders of Duke François II of Brittany. It served as refuge for combat troops of both sides in the wars of the Vendée and were restored on many occasions. They extend from the rue Saint Jacques to the Place Notre Dame, and still house today the nice market held on Tuesdays and Fridays; (they are in renovation now). Once done, you can see from the pictures in the city of Clisson here how wonderful it is: http://www.mairie-clisson.fr/infos-pratiques/marches/

However, the main reason we came is to take a closer look of the muscadet wines famous in the vineyards Nantaise or Nantes. It all started with five winemakers who decided to share their enthusiasm for the wines of the region and do events of wine tastings coupled with local products. So this weekend they hold Soif des vins et de Savoirs or thirst of wines and knowledge. For this we headed for the Domaine du Grand Air at Bourginal a commune of Clisson.  There was sparkling and red wines from the region as well as Sauvignon, and Pinot noir, and Chardonnay etc wines.

The association and their partners with contact info is here: http://www.domainedugrandair.fr/association.php

Right at the same webpage of the winemaker of the Domaine du Grand Air, and on the same site you can see pictures of their work: http://www.domainedugrandair.fr/photos.php

Very friendly nice farming area, and it shows the love of their trade. We came home with a case of white wines mix, pure grape jelly done on premises; foie gras from the Poitiers area, chocolates, macaroons and more from the region, including the famous gateau Nantais or cake, the recipe from the tourist site in English here : https://www.nantes-tourisme.com/en/food-and-wine/gateau-nantais

We just ate all kinds of goodies in the event from foie gras to cheeses to sweets in addition to the wines of all sorts that were  full no need to stop to eat on the road, just headed back home a bit late.

Just to mention there is a train station or gare de Clisson, the first TER line in this area for the train lovers in you, see photo. More here: https://www.ter.sncf.com/pays-de-la-loire/gares/87481440/Clisson/prochains-departs

And passing over on the 149 to Clisson we passed by the vineyards of Mouzillon and saw a very nice Church Saint Martin, see photo.

In all a wonderful day and time , very heavy on time but heck we will be back, so much to see , we have our works cut out to see it all in our lifetime. France is a feast or a movable feast at that! Enjoy the photos and have a great Sunday wherever you are, here is chilly with lows of -1C and now 9C (about 44F)at mid day, sunny bright wintery day, and no rain ::)  Paris at 45F  and cloudy wind-chill at 40F ;Cheers!!!

Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Mouzillon

 

 

 

 

 

 

November 25, 2017

My new home of Pluvigner in the Morbihan Breton XXI

And winter autumn ? well for us it is becoming more like winter even if are still several weeks away. We had as low as 2C this morning and 5C coming back in the evening from our trips.

Continuing my tales of daily life in the Morbihan Breton, and France in general , let me tell you what we did today Saturday. And just got a nice reminder from WordPress that it is my 7th year anniversary with my blog; thank you all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Again, we got up earlier than usual and headed for the post office to weight and send letters, took money from the bank ATM lol!!! The town was cloudy cold but there was the little market held here on Saturdays too. It is ok, local produce but the selection is limited, so we rather go to my the  working city and capital of the Morbihan; Vannes (Gwened in Breton language).

At Vannes in the large hypermarket E Leclerc I did my car wash on one of those automatic machine ,the works for 10 euros. However, just before finishing ,the washing machine wash tec stop with all the plastics wipers sitting in my car!!! No damage at all, but stuck inside was my car!!! Luckily , it was daytime and cover by an employee which I call up to come to my rescue and re start the machine… There is always a first time on anything!

In the meantime of the car wash , my family went on to the Castorama home depot to get all kinds of goodies from cutting nylon for the edger grass cutter, to brooms  for the patio, and scissors cutter for the plants, interior basement paint to have it ready 90 m2 for better weather in Spring, And, a wonderful gas/petrol hedge trimmer to handle all duties.

After , getting all this into the car, stop by the awesome food market (Marché alimentaire) held on Saturdays in old town Vannes around the place du poids public and place des lices and going to our wonderful fish market halle aux poissons. Grabing our breads at the bakery by the Porte Saint Vincent as well. Got all kinds of goodies from the farm such as white grapes, avocados, oranges, clementines, raspberries, bananas, Batavia lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, and covers goodies from fruits and dry fruits for the gourmet in us. We stop by our favorite cheese provider for more brie de Meaux, ewes milk cheese from the pyrénées, and goat cheese from local farmers. We pick up our codfish from the fish market guys (Atlantique mare) we always buy our fish and seafood and always fresh and delicious.

Forgot to tell you on the way back home we stopped at our favorite local bakery pastry shop or boulangerie Delumeau, here we loaded on our favorite sweets and breads, see 2 photos on it above.

We got home and unloaded and put away all. Then, we were ready to go out again, second part, coming on next blog post.   It should go down to 1C tonite or about 33F and so too tomorrow morning at least, but then again it will Sunday time to relax and enjoy the catch of the day Saturday ::)

Enjoy your weekend wherever you are, happy travels and best wishes for the season to be merrier, just beginning here and we planning on going to some Christmas markets soon. Cheers!

Tags: ,
November 20, 2017

Some news from France CLXXV

Here I go again with news of my belle France. It has been mild lately going down to 9C;  however,the afternoon has gone up to 12C, figure about 50F to 55F and cloudy with some sun out no rain.

Some of the latest from France are:

The Church of La Trinité (9éme) even with a fountain closed to avoid falling stones is open to all and celebrating 150 years as most of the buildings around it. Tomorrow the world is invited to participate on the meals service to the homeless in the Crypt. There will be a guided visit at 18H ; like every evening until Sunday it will be illuminated by 2000 candles and lanterns; then at 20h45 the parrish evening in the Church. At 11H Sunday the Mass for its 150 years will be held in the world day on poverty and at 16h30 a concert in the choir. For more than 25 years the crypt of the Church holds a dinner to the homeless with donations from many every Monday, Tuesday , Thursday and Friday; from mid October to mid June. Each week almost 800 meals are served with donation of as much as 6000 kgs of fruits and vegetables from local merchant of Rungis (the food market of Paris) .  By word of mouth  from 9h many are in the kitchen preparing to serve the meal by 12h45 . You can see this entering by the rue de La Trinité, from 12h45 to 13h30.  More here: La Trinité

Ready for the season to be merrier, the committee of Faubourg Saint-Honoré unveils tomorrow Thursday November 16 the lighting of Christmas on the street during this year program the  Winter Time 2017.  This year the festivities are link to the charitable organisation Laurette Fugain that fights leucemia. For this occasion the street will be pedestrian only from 18h30 to 19h30 between the streets of rue Boissy D’Anglas (8éme) and the rue Royale (1éme). At 18h45, the gospel choir of Paris will open the evening with traditional Christmas songs; by 19h a child will bring a lantern to singer Nolwenn Leroy (Brittany) so she can light up the fire that will lit up all the lanterns in the street ,and will be on until early January 2018. There will be a tombola open to all until January 27th,  The participants can already purchase their ticket on the site Winter Time 2017 or from the association Laurette Fugain. More here: Winter Time 2017

do you this now famous football/soccer club of Paris,PSG how it began? Well it was back in 1969 with the creation of the Paris Football club  and the wish of the French football league to have a team in Paris. However, no team wanted to fusion or be promoted for the idea. At the same time another club was moving up from Division 2 winning it in 1969-1970; this was the Stade Saint-Germanois, (St Germain en laye) founded in 1904. The stadium to play was just finished in 1972.  The all new Paris-Saint-Germain Football club had two years to reach the Division One ,and they needed only one season to do so. A few months later that the city of Paris did not want to sponsor a team in the suburbs while the Paris FC  stayed temporarely in Division one.  The Paris-Saint-Germain, that preserved the name but falls two levels down to allow the opportunity for the two clubs to merged. In 1973,the fashion creator Daniel Hechter becomes the owner by taken the second team,and the history of the PSG is on. More on them here: PSG

Want to see something different in Paris? come to the romantic squares where you can see the evolution of wild ducks, and hear the noice of the swings and admire the flowers that change each season; this is the Square des Batignolles and facing it is the new parc Martin Luther King with wonderful trees and a skatepark that children loves. This is at 144 bis, et 147, rue Cardinet (17éme). Behind the train station Gare Saint Lazare. It is closed until Nov 24th for cleaning.More of it here; Batignolles et MLK

And if you are in Paris and want to know more of Brittany before getting to me, this is their official information bureau. Maison de la Bretagne 8, rue de l’Arrivée – 75015 PARIS – Métro : Montparnasse  Tel +33 (0)1 53 63 11 50; just next to the Gare Montparnasse. More here: Maison de la Bretagne

On December 4 2017 the five aquarelles by Jacques Gotko will be up for sale at the Hôtel des ventes de Drouot in Paris. They were painted in the concentration camp of Royallieu in Compiegne between 1941 and 1942 showing life of the prisioners there on a daily basis. The Mémorial de l’Internement et de la Déportation would like to acquired them and has started a call for donations on the site http://www.Ulule.fr. They need 10K€ to get these paintings and are hoping for folks to help out. Now you can at Ulule.

With a beautiful sun covering their new site in a mansion at the corner of rue Saint-Honoré you can read « Louis Vuitton »  now celebrating the opening  since October of their new store in the Place Vendome. The store is a complete gamme of all their products ; see it here : http://fr.louisvuitton.com/fra-fr/notre-histoire/store-vendome#/page/city

At the forthcoming Salon du Cheval de Paris (horse show) between November 25 and December 3rd at the parc  des expositions de Paris Nord-Villepinte.  For the first time the  Garde républicaine parades their 250 horses and 110 jockeys with 40 carriages . Starting from the bois de Boulogne, the knights and their horses follow a path of 20 kms into Paris passing by the Opéra Garnier, Louvre, Champ-de-Mars , and Trocadéro.  More in French here: https://www.salon-cheval.com/

And we reach a world record according to the house of auctions Osenat. The laurel leave in gold coming from the crown of the coronation of emperor Napoléon Ier, were purchased for 625 000 euros, last Sunday at the Château de  Fontainebleau. This leave done by jeweler Martin Guillaume Biennais, was estimated at between 100k and 150K euros, was purchased by an international collector as told by the maison Osenat. More here and with video: http://www.osenat.fr/html/detailActualite.jsp?idActu=58886

Also, the red box a makeup box of the Impératrice Joséphine, estimated at between 40 to 50K euros was sold for 156 250 euros. A coffret for men entered by the National Museums and specifically the Louvre was sold for 58 750 euros. By the Maison Osenat as well.

The museum of romantic lives or the Musée de la vie Romantique 16 rue Chaptal in the 9éme arrondissement has closed its doors for renovations that will help the persons with mobility impaired to access the museum, an elevator will be installed in the shop on two levels located at the right of the entrance. The museum should open again in June 2018. Read it all here: http://museevieromantique.paris.fr/en

The historically famous Grand Rex  cinema with its 2 700 seats , starred skies, huge screen in a vault of more than 30 meters high with a visitation of about 1 million persons per year still shows magical moments. Since its opening in December 8 1932 and celebrating its 85 years. Really history tell us that it was until 1947 when Jean Hellmann took over that this cinema gained its fame. Her son Philippe, took over at the age of 22!!! He who later created the cinema network of UGC in France where the family is still majority shareholders . A Paris Landmark not to be missed especially if you like films.  Le Grand Rex, 1, boulevard Poissonnière (ééme). Metro Bonne Nouvelle. Adults admission 15 €  and children 12 €. See it here: http://www.legrandrex.com/home.php

And now the Disney-Pixar is shown exclusively in conjunction with the water fairy or Féerie des Eaux.  A great end of year Christmas spectacle that is sure to be a good one coupled with the film « Coco » of Disney-Pixar  studios (« Toy Story », « Vice-Versa »…)  the story of a young Mexican boy who is found stuck in the kingdom of the Dead. Shown at the above Le Grand Rex 

You can admire the numeric production of “Baiser” of Klimt shown on a wall 10 meters high with an outstanding musical sound that will be possible to see from next April 13 2018 on the opening of the « L’Atelier des Lumières », managed by Culturespaces, See it all here first in French: http://www.atelier-lumieres.com/

It is still going on with preparation works at  38, rue Saint-Maur (11éme), steps from the metro Voltaire. This was an old foundry from the 19C that conserved many of its original elements. For the price of a cinema ticket you will be able to see monumental presentation on the walls as it is currently shown on a similar site in  Baux-de-Provence (Bouches-de-Rhône).  The projections will be on all the walls and floor covering about  3 300 m2, and the public will be submerge into the moving images and the sound with the biggest video projection in the world!!!  The public will be parade it on the huge hall of  1 500 m2 where it will be projected in alternance programs of 35 minutes so the first one shown will be as explained above.  A studio of 160 m2, equipped with a bar thrown into the night will welcome artists of the numeric art or emerging talent .  « L’Atelier des Lumières » will open 365 days per year 7/7 from 10h to 18h during the week and 19H on weekends with a night session to 22h on Friday evenings. See the webpage above.

The nice historically famous Tour Jean Sans Peur in Paris organises until December 31 its 15th exposition entitled « Moyen Âge et publicité » or middle ages and publicity.  This tower of 27 meters high near the Halles is less frequented than others in Paris but all worth a detour.  It houses a ludic museum on daily life in the years 1400-1500.  The only civil medieval tower in Paris built between 1409  and 1411 by Jean Sans Peur, Duke of Burgundy. You can see with the family all the costumes of this period and the stories around them. The tour Jean Sans Peur, 20, rue Etienne-Marcel  (2éme). Open Wednesdays to Sundays from  13h30 and 18h. Free admission until 6 yrs old, 3,50€ for the 6-18 yrs old and 6€  for adults. More info here in a wordpress French blog: https://tourjeansanspeursite.wordpress.com/

Had to tell you about this exposition superb ,”Degas Danse Dessin”, November 28 to February 25 2018 at the museum or musée d’Orsay. More info in English here: http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/events/exhibitions/in-the-musee-dorsay/exhibitions-in-the-musee-dorsay/article/degas-danse-dessin-46519.html?tx_ttnews%5BbackPid%5D=254&cHash=5607894a8e

At the Mémorial Charles de Gaulle at Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises (Haute-Marne) there is going on an exposition «À table avec le général de Gaulle»  on the memories of dining with the General De Gaulle welcoming his guests. The period covers from 1959 when he became President to 1969 upon his retirement from politics . It shows the famous dinner given on June 1st 1961 to US President John F. Kennedy  and wife, Jackie. After this visit the US president encouraged the donations to support the Château de Versailles!!! The complete title of the exposition is  «À table avec le général de Gaulle, 10 ans de menus présidentiels (1959-1969)»  It will be on until December 30 2017. You can have dinner there for 25€ only on lunch time and except Mondays and Tuesdays; at  54, rue du Général-de-Gaulle, 52330 Colombey-les-Deux-Églises. Tél. +33 (0)3 25 01 51 69.

On the occasion of the 50th anniversary of his call for action on June 18 1940, the Champagne house of Drappier created in 1990 a special cuvee Charles-de-Gaulle with the same blending as he liked such as  80 %  pinot noir and 20 % chardonnay. Only the dosage is less today by about 7 grams making a a more dry Champagne but delicious as apéritif or to accompany meals . The production is still confidential but it is believe between 3000 to 4000 bottles per year.Champagne Drappier Charles-de-Gaulle. About 35 €. More here: http://www.champagne-drappier.com/en/charles-de-gaulle

And there is already coming up the season to be merrier and the ski slopes are waking up too. In the Savoy the season has started at Montgenèvre (Hautes-Alpes), Chamrousse (Isère), already welcoming skiers.  At 2300 meters high ,the station is the highest in all the Alpine arch with 3/4 of the stations ready for skiing on hundreds of km of trails mostly between  2300 and 2700 meters.  On the seven mechanical chairs going as high as 3000 meters and more only  Funitel Grand-Fond will work.  However, the cable car of  Cime Caron, terminus at 3200 meters and a panorama à 360 °, will starts in a few days. The prices are just, until November 24th the day will be at 33,60€ and the forfeit of 4 hours at 30,10€. The weekend the tariff will be special 2 days at 64€. The local tourist reservation desk will have a lodging and ski for 2 days 2 nights from 112€ per person; good for the weekend and the following. At Montgenévre (Hautes-Alpes) they have 8 trails ready with 700 meters of skiing on foot for 20€ per day.  At Chamrousse (Isére) there is a Nordic trail of 5 km for 1,50€ per day and ready to go! In the Alps at Tignes (Savoie) as always first in welcoming skiers on the glacier of Grande-Motte and this year it will be bigger on the trail Double M . So far only one cable car is going up from Tignes-Val-Claret with no connections.  At 32 €  for adults and 26 €  for children the forfaits (glacier and double M) are on a limited space available and a bit more expensive than the 100 km of trails available at  Val-Thorens,in the same valley. Finally, in the Alpes-Maritimes,just by Nice ,the Isola 2000 is already open with half the domaine skiable for 20€ per day.  One site I always used for my boys doing the runs is this one Skiinfo in French,but can change to English, just in French it gives you more info.  https://www.skiinfo.fr/france/stations-de-ski.html

And talking about Christmas , well I have been to many over the years and lately the local ones, but these are the best markets in France in my opinion.

Marché de Noël de Colmar, Marché de Noël de Strasbourg, Marché de Noël de Montbéliard, Marché de Noël d’Obernai, Marché de Noël de Mulhouse, Marché de Noël de Reims, Marché de Noël d’Amiens, Marché de Noël de Lille, Marché de Noël de Metz, and Marché de Noël d’Arras. Merry Christmas to all who believe.

Until next time on the airwaves of Paris1972-Versailles2003 ::) Cheers!!!!!

November 19, 2017

My travels in the Morbihan, L

We are on Sunday another cool autumn day in the Morbihan or petite mer or small sea in Breton language. Dept 56 of the region of Brittany/Bretagne or Breizh in Breton. My region; I live a bit in the center just above the wonderful beaches of Carnac ,La Trinité sur Mer, and Quiberon; past inland harbor Auray into the Breton lands of Pluvigner or the parrish of Guigner, Saint Guigner once a king in Ireland disagree with Saint Patrick and came over here to set up his followers; way way back in time.

I like to tell you of what is going on in my area and some suggestions to eat here.

At the great Cinéville cinema we go to in Vannes, there are schedule to show in March 8 (Thursday) 2018 the ¨Le petit-maître corrigé” of Marivaux at 20h15 and then on July 5 2018 “Britannicus” of Jean Racine also at 20h15.  This is at the cinema by the ramparts or cinéville Garenne, Keep an eye on it here: Cineville Garenne

On December 1st 2017 the entertainment complex Le Chorus at the parc du golfe is showing the great entertainer Patrick Sebastian in French of course, but a great way to dwell into French joie de vivre! Then on December 7 2017 they are showing Irish Celtic with a whole new spectacle of Irish , celtic music similar to what we have here as Breton. More here: Le Chorus Patrick Sebastian     and Le Chorus Irish Celtic

Two wonderful performers coming over are Cirque Farouche Zanzibar, with 18 artists and 5 musicians for an homage of Fellini!!! December 7-9 2017 at the Théatre Anne de Bretagne. Also, on December 12 2017, invited artist Rufus Wainwright of Canada who has collaborated with artists such as David Byrne, Elton John, Joni Mitchell, and Bob Wilson etc. at 20h both programs. More here: Theatre Anne de Bretagne circus   and  Theatre Anne de Bretagne Wainwright

We have great casinos in the area and with proper moderation they are great places to entertained many we go for the ambiance and to eat ::) Others enjoy the roulette tables and money machines lol! New and modern ones are installed at the Circus Casino de Carnac, more here; Casino de Carnac

The wonderful Casino d’Arzon in the peninsula or presqu’île de Rhuys is near the harbor and nice restaurant too. More here; Casino d’Arzon

There are encounters with artists such at the library l’archipel des mots (archipelago of words) with Véronique Durruty December 11-24 2017 the story of “Mondes Indiens” or the Indian worlds. This is an old quaint district of Vannes, near the oldest Church of St Patern facing the government building or prefecture du Morbihan.  15 Place du Général de Gaulle. Tuesdays to Saturdays from 10h to 19h. New event see it here posting soon. L’Archipel des Mots library

Also , at the library Le Silence de la Mer (silence of the sea) we have Anne Godard coming November 23rd soon, with a recount of the French literature on the mis interpretation of others to every day life according to the writer’s experience; it is facing the wonderful Cathedral of St Pierre at Place St Pierre (St Peter’s). Here is their facebook page: Librarie Le Silence de la Mer

At the nice quaint old museum of fine arts or musée des Beaux-Arts of Vannes; the La Cohue you can see until January 7 2018 the exposition of Regard(s) Jeanne-Marie Barbey from the photography to the paintings. This is a collaboration with the musée de Bretagne of Rennes where the photographs are kept and the musée du Faouët where the expo will be shown in spring 2018. There will be a conference presentation of the artists on November 24th 15h. more here: La Cohue JM Barbey

Now if you come here looking for some nice places to eat our local delicacies especially in our capital city of Vannes (my work city) well let me tell you a few of my favorites, jog them down ok

a wonderful heaven in the place du poids public the place of the market on Saturdays and great ambiance with great oysters of the island of Arz (gulf) local Breton andouilles and the Breizh tiramisu! This is Di’Vin at 15 bis rue Noé. Closed Sundays and Mondays. See here: Di’Vin

Another good one is Bibovino, 18 rue Emile Burgault in the old town very nicd quaint street to get lost in time. Here you have small tapas like dishes with fine wines bag in a box system and cubi of 2-3 liters of wine from great names such as Chateau le Tap, Cave de Clairmont (crozes-hermitage), etc they have 43 wines labels!  a great way to munch and enjoy a great glass of wine; also take home available.  A concept that is catching up all over France: more on Vannes here: BiboVino Vannes

One dear to me just celebrated my twins sons birthday there is la Crêperie du Château in the Château de Rimaision at Pluvigner. Recently compensated in a local TV TF1 program on arts of cooking. All ven with a Chapel of the 13C! You like to eat good Breton food in a castle ,then come here. More in their Facebook page here: Créperie du Château

Another crêperie brasserie is the Moulin du Roy at 14 place Gambetta facing the harbor pleasure marina all is done locally and on site and bio as well as burgers, fish and chips homemade and bagels on beef!!! great views over the canal and marina too.  More here: Moulin du Roy

Another one facing the harbor and canal of Vannes is the L’Atlantique this is fish and seafood delights all fresh from the local waters and 140 wine labels to choose from! It has a terrace just facing the harbor a great people watching spot and the food is top quality and prices to boot menus start at just 12€! More in yelp here: L’Atlantique

Another in old town just passing the porte Saint Vincent gate and around the corner from the fish market halle aux poissons is the Lecocq & Folks at 5 rue Saint Vincent. This is a brother and sister restaurant offering the bistronomique where dishes change every day and all done homemade on site. There is a Brunch every Sunday and Vegan dishes as well. All formules from 17€ !! More here in their facebook page: Lecocq & Folks

Going along the canal and before the harbormaster or Capitanerie you find the wonderful Le Vent d’Est a regular for 17 yrs here by same owners. The deco takes you back to a small street in Strasbourg with beautiful views over the sailing boats in the canal . The best is upstairs and has AC; the thighs of pork or jarret de porc au Münster with a Kougelhopf or the cheese Münster is golden here. More here: Le Vent d’Est

One I go every time my local colleagues decides to eat lunch out is the Anna & Paul, 23 place du Général de Gaulle not far from the Church of St Patern.  This is nouvelle cuisine almost very refine and nicely serve. The name is after the children of the owners….The foie gras au Serrano (ham) is done on site homemade as others nothing like a family of cooks aficionados to serve you. Menu Paul 25€ is sublime along great wine labels. More here: Anna & Paul

Going over  a bit to Auray, you have the Le Café qui Fume 22,place Joffre. Here coffee is king and you will be in heaven. A couple owners homemade making from the best coffees in the world. You see the roasting of your coffee live and can show you class tour on Saturdays at 10h30. There is a boutique side with all the parts and ingredients needed to do the same at home; professionally done as we do ::) There are ,also, teas,and local gourmet products from Brittany as well as wines and liquors from the region. At the restaurant, on site or take home from 8,90€ dishes;Closed Tuesdays from October. More here in their Facebook page : Le Café Qui Fume

To stay with coffee and I am a great café lover I take you to Columbus Café & Co 11 rue du Mené, Vannes. Many outlets in France as well. You find all kinds of cookies, muffins, donuts, brownies as well as coffee and chocolate drinks, teas etc there are sugary and salty menus all year long. More here Columbus Café

And why not finish the post with the le Qu4tre, 3 place Henri IV, very old quarters of Vannes next to the Cathedral St Pierre. Very relaxing in medieval surrounding and people watching, wooden houses from the 14C.  Nice terrace on the square; great sporting events shown . more here: LE Qu4tre

There enjoy the arts and food of the Morbihan and especially my capital and working city of Vannes/ Happy Sunday and health to continue enjoying our World. Cheers!

 

November 17, 2017

It’s birthday time and on off day we had a blast ::)

Ok silly post title but what’s the heck it is a birthday of my twins sons, now 24 yrs young. We had a double celebration one outside and one inside.

We had a pastry maker do a cake for them as a surprise; that we took home. At the same time, we went out to our fad place in town to eat out with them and I took my old father along;total of 6. Me, my wife, father and three young men.

We make the cake at boulangerie/Pâtisserie Delumeau in our town , richly cream of chocolate with one layer of pistachio cream and other of strawberry cream, then eclairs of both flavor thrown on top. All with the local Le Guelin cider brut from nearby La Gacilly.  They have no webpage but has been our bakery since moving here; very good on the main road rue de la Gare into town also the D768 before the traffic circle of Vorlen

The out was at the Créperie du Château in the Château de Rimaison in our town. This is a castle built from scratch here and now belonging to a wonderful family who work it , a couple and six children…. More on it here:  http://lacreperieduchateau.blogspot.fr/

and ,also, their facebook page : https://www.facebook.com/LaCreperieDuChateau/

The castle is from the 18C destroyed and rebuilt with the stones of the old, until now. It has a wonderful garden and gorgeous enclosed terrace veranda. Recently they even have room to rent or chambre d’hôte. It is right across the street from the above bakery. However, with a car the entrance is on the back on the road D16 Route de Landaul.

It is a worthy detour for the good food , reasonable prices, great welcome and chat with the owners and history all around you. The property has a fountain with a figure of a Virgin and a Chapel where celebration are held on special dates.

We always have a great time here and well fed all local products of Brittany done by locals. You are wise to stop by and eat here. We had our usual wonderful time with the boys and plenty of Breton cider brut and doux (sweeter).

The meal was right off the menu with a galette of goat cheese and honey, brown cook onions in cider sauce and Andouille the local Breton sausage. Follow by a crêpe of bouganville or bananas on chocolate sauce and coconut ice cream. The start was aperitif of various sources from Breizh cola (the rival coca cola brand) , non alcoholic fruity drink, porto red to whisky and scotch. Along the meal 3 bottles of cider and many other dishes for about 27€ per person. A wonderful 24 birthday celebration.

Enjoy your weekend I am caught up and ready for more tomorrow. Have a great weekend. Cheers!!!

November 12, 2017

Guérande, Batz-sur-Mer, and Le Croisic ; can 3 be a charm!

Hi dear travelers, we went out on Sunday ,rare for us as usually this is family time at home. Today was rainy cool 11C and cloudy, but we had some friends in Guérande inviting us for lunch and we could not resist. We went to three wonderful towns where a lot more time is in order and we should be back next month; these are Guérande, Batz-sur-Mer, and Le Croisic.

We visited before at Guérande on our own and had pleasant surprises of the town and its ramparts. Here is my last post on it; https://paris1972-versailles2003.com/2015/12/15/guerande-the-best-salt-of-france-and-a-lot-more/

The tourist office for each of them are here for easy reference.

Guérande : http://en.ot-guerande.fr/

Batz-sur-Mer : http://en.ot-batzsurmer.fr/

Le Croisic : http://www.tourisme-lecroisic.fr/en/

We took the expressway N165 to the exit 17 La Baule, La Roche Bernard, and took the D774 direction Herbignac/Guérande. As we got earlier we walked a bit before meeting our friends in their house.

At Guérande, we walked around the ramparts and the wonderful Porte Vannetais, Porte Saint Michel, and Tour de la Gaudinais walking into the old town to take a look again at the Church Saint Aubin.

On our way out to Batz-sur-Mer we passed by the museum of salt marshes or Musée des Marais Salants and the wonderful salt marshes you see along the road is wonderful. This is the famous salt of Guérande, world famous. More here: http://www.cap-atlantique.fr/node/1482

We continue our journey with our friends into the harbor area and saw the nice Church and tower of Saint-Guénolé built in the 13C of gothic Breton style with a tower 70 meters high and nice views of the ocean. We went to the harbor port Saint Michel where we had our lunch at the Café de la  Plage, wonderful family service, where I had a cassoulet de la mer or sea casserole of shrimp, scallops and fish with a nice vegetable lettuce and a bottle of Kerisec cider, the others had different servings from mussels with Roquefort cheese , tagliatelles bolognaise, and four cheeses pizzas, desserts from bounty coconuts ice cream to banana splits , and of course another bottle of Kerisec cider brut.  The price we could not know as our friendly friends lol!! went ahead and pay for all five of us the bill !!! yes nice friends. However, no pictures as rather keep them private.

We went on by car to Le Croisic the end of the peninsula where the sea is king and we just the servants.  There was an exposition going on at the house of the rescue or Maison du Sauvetage right by the harbor. The fishing harbor and the pleasure boat harbor are sublime picturesques beautiful. More here only in French : http://www.tourisme-lecroisic.fr/fr/infos/decouvrir/patrimoine/la-maison-du-sauvetage

And the colorful train station or gare du Croisic right by the harbor! More here: https://www.gares-sncf.com/fr/gare/fregu/croisic

We found for a Sunday plenty of parking for free in all the towns.  In all, a short but pleasant trip to the beautiful old Brittany now Pays de la Loire region dept 44 Loire Atlantique. We will be back ::)

Enjoy your Sunday and happy travels to all my readers and friends/family. Cheers!!

ps I must add that if anyone is interested in an English guided tour of the Pays de la Loire you can reach out in confidence to this guy here his FB page: https://www.facebook.com/Tourer-44-1959910610914510/

 

 

 

 

%d bloggers like this: