Wines news of France LV !!

Again back at you with the best of wines news of France. By the way for the non Romans LV is no 55, The wines of France are just super simply awesome and a great tradition. Often imitated, some time equaled ,but never surpass! Therefore, let me tell you some news shall we. Hope you enjoy it as I.

The Chandeleur or Candlemas is coming! A must-have during Candlemas, sweet crêpes or pancakes delight young and old. If you are wondering what to serve to accompany them, know that you have to take into account its garnish. concentrate on ciders with natural foaming, without added gas. They are not found in large retailers, but on the Internet directly on the cider makers’ websites or as in my area directly from producers !. For pancakes with a sweet filling, it is best to use wheat flour, which will be softer than buckwheat. It is possible to add alcohol to the paste, preferably an amber alcohol, such as cognac, calvados or rum. Dark chocolate crêpes in this type of pairing you have to look for freshness. Opt for a ginger-infused perry, which combines the fresh acidity and spices of ginger. The perfect candidate would be, for example, the Krystin cider house near Vannes, vintage Kalysie. Crêpes Suzette or crepes flambées  You need a brut cider to keep, which can be aged for 3 years. Look for at Damien Lemasson in Normandy, Cuvée Opiédumur. Goat-honey crepe ; this great classic of savory crêpes requires a cider with fairly strong notes, to stand out against the coating side of honey. You should also choose it preferably raw, therefore quite dry, to “wash” the palate of excess sugar and awaken the accords. Choose a cider from Brittany, from the AOP of Cornwall, a little orange at 5° or 5.5°. Yes enjoy it as we do ! The ham, egg and gruyere crêpes, for this pancake, there is nothing like a semi-dry cider, a bit sweet, to enhance the flavors. Choose one infused with chestnuts for a guaranteed effect with cold meats. Gluttony and depth, the pairing works very well. With crepes topped with cold meats, bacon or ham, serve light red Gamay wines, Beaujolais wine or wine from the Loire Valley. With a Camembert or a Brie, you absolutely need some sour drinks. Opt for a sparkling drink, an extra-brut cider, a crémant or a brut or extra-brut Champagne wine. Note that the more orange the cider, the sweeter it turns out to be. Conversely, the whiter it is, the more dry it has aromas.

The big winner is the crêpe, ahead of the fruit tartlet, the brownie, the clafoutis and the tiramisu. The Breton specialty ranks first in 8 out of 12 metropolitan regions – only Hauts-de-France and Centre-Val-de-Loire prefer the brownie, Burgundy-Franche-Comté the clafoutis and the Grand-Est the tart. fruits. Yes!! we won !!!

Sometimes using technologies such as reverse osmosis, which allows wines to be partially dealcoholized, but also by taking advantage of specific weather conditions and using grape varieties known to be more acidic. If we naturally think of Champagne, where most vintages peak at 12% alcohol, there are other regions that make it possible to produce wines that are naturally low in alcohol. This is the case of the Côtes de Gascogne where the Domaine Tariquet is located. Thanks to the oceanic climate that sweeps the hills between Landes and Gers, combined with terroirs with light soils, the naturally produce the Imprévu vintage, the final alcohol content of which is only 9.5%. Here, the Ugni Blanc, which makes up 30% of the blend, is harvested at around 9% potential alcohol, without losing its exotic fruit aroma, while the Riesling becomes the majority. A few kilometers further east, the Vignerons de Buzet offer a slightly sweet rosé. Called Nuage, this vintage has an alcohol level of only 9% thanks to relatively early harvests, which preserve the natural acidity of the grapes. Among the grape varieties which only increase slightly in degrees, Riesling is a good student. this variety of white grapes rarely reaches 12.5% alcohol, without losing any organoleptic qualities. Moreover, planting Riesling is now possible everywhere in France, even if the grape variety is not in the appellation specifications. In Muscadet,near Nantes, Melon de Bourgogne/Burgundy also produces wines that know how to remain mature, with alcohol levels mostly around 11.5%. Some grape varieties are also known for producing light wines. We of course think of Gamay, Cinsault and Pinot Noir. Associated with granite terroirs, as in the Côte Chalonnaise, or volcanic lands like those of Forez, on the sandy lands of Languedoc or on the heights of the hills of the Rhône valley. But the great red grape variety that maintains freshness and intensity certainly remains Pinot Noir. Whether it comes from Alsace or Burgundy, it is easy to find vintages with an alcohol content of 12.5%, There you go for the alcohol scary crowd, there is a taste for everybody in the wine world !

The cellars of the largest establishments, whether restaurants or palaces, are the subject of all temptations. And not all of them are inviolable, despite security worthy of Fort Knox. The Tour d’Argent cellar saw a small part of its treasure stolen: 83 grands crus were stolen, including the Romanée-Conti, for damage estimated at 1.5 million euros. The Tour d’Argent cellar houses some 300,000 bottles and remains one of the most stocked in the capital. At the chef’s restaurant located at the Monnaie de Paris, “only” 5,000 bottles rest in the basement of the restaurant. The rest of the collection is stored in another cellar whose address is top secret. In addition, the sommelier can count on a set-up already set up within the room itself, in order to avoid comings and goings in the cellar as much as possible. The house also carries out four physical inventories per year. The door is ultra-secure, it has three or four notches and access is only reserved for the sommelier service, which represents five people, but only three of them have the keys. The alarm can be triggered at the slightest movement in Guy Savoy’s cellar. At the Caves de Taillevent, the investigation revealed the use by the criminals of the “wall-piercing” technique, which involves going through the cellar of the adjoining building ,The aigrefins then drill a hole just wide enough to pass bottles through using a pole, all without triggering the slightest alarm and without appearing on surveillance cameras !! Yeah some keep wine as a collection of valuables but I drink them lol !

In Béziers, winegrowers on the front lines of the mobilization, The procession brought together around 80 tractors or trailers in Villeneuve-les-Béziers, brandishing signs like: “Vitis angry”, “Now it’s bread or it will be lead”. The demonstrators first entered the premises of the Castel Vin merchant, dumping slurry in its courtyard then setting fire to pallets, according to AFP and the prefecture. Then, they broke down the gates of two logistics bases, one of Lidl supermarkets chain, and the other of Intermarché supermarket chain, before pouring grape marc there and also setting fire to pallets the main union, the powerful FNSEA,(in Eng National Federation of Farmers’ Unions) requesting “immediate” aid of several hundred million euros. Grievances which the government continues to study. This is part of the agriculture strikes all over France and now spilling into other European countries !!! The EU is on the run,,,

The majestic return of wine to the plain of Versailles !! Adrien Pelissié and Julien Brustis, created the La Bouche du roi wine estate, in Davron, in Yvelines (dept 78) at about 19 km from Versailles. The wines produced surprise with their quality. The Île-de-France vineyards come back to life. Visit Davron and discover, in the Versailles plain, a 27-hectare wine estate planted with Chenin, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The man behind this estate is calls Adrien Pelissié, he was born in the Graves, in the Bordelais, he is the son of a winegrower. He traveled from California to Australia, completing his diplomas and then professional meetings, and first created the Winerie, an urban winery, at 121, rue de Montreuil, in the 11éme arrondissement of Paris. His family network put him in contact with Julien Brustis, a young agricultural engineer who would become his partner. in Davron, at an altitude of 140 meters, a windy place, ideal for the organic farming that we wanted to practice from the start. There are several types of clay-limestone soils. Limestone is perfect for drainage, and clay plays its role as a sponge with water. From the point of view of the freshness of the nights and the sunshine, they are located between  Burgundy  and Champagne. The two entrepreneurs will plant a plot of 27 hectares; 13 hectares are already productive, 10 hectares will come into production in 2024 and 3 more will follow in 2026, The name, La Bouche du roi, was the name of the subsidiary company of the Maison du Roi created by Louis XIV, it was in charge of supplying Versailles with food and wine. The Grand Lever 2022, a Chenin, presents a formidable expression of the grape variety ; both straight and voluptuous. This is a wine with a very nice balance marked by quince and mirabelle plum, without any secondary aroma of wood. All at 12.5°, a low alcohol content, as desired by more and more enthusiasts. The Sauvignon Grande Vue is just as recommendable, with its slightly cloudy color. On the nose, aromas of star anise and anise predominate. The palate is lively, not devoid of bitterness. The Louis d’Or chardonnay is also successful. And let ourselves be charmed by Abondance, a pinot noir with very little extraction and exemplary balance. The production of La Bouche du roi today is around 150,000 bottles. The Versailles tourist office on La Bouche du roi : https://www.versailles-tourisme.com/domaine-la-bouche-du-roi.html

After passing through the doors of a cellar, three well-known questions await you: “What budget? What color ? To go with what? Let’s ignore the technical vocabulary and stick to simplicity ,and if questions let me know. The essential is contained in a few things and words sometimes mislead more than they enlighten. An original technique which actually turns out to be very effective, because by proceeding in this way by elimination we end up sketching the contours of the wines that we like and which should be described to your wine merchant according to the following three criteria: body, profile and the appellation The Cabernet Francs of the Loire Valley, the Pinot Noirs of Burgundy and the  Gamays  of Beaujolais will more easily appeal to lovers of light wines, marked by freshness and an acidity that marries red fruits. Conversely, if you prefer more robust and full-bodied wines, the  Mourvedres  from  Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Merlots from Bordeaux or even the Tannats from the southwest will speak to you more. To say of a white wine that it can be sweet, dry or sweet, more or less sweet, mineral and tense, buttery and fatty, floral and herbaceous, is only ever approaching a very thin slice of the taste profiles that are define according to acidity and creaminess. Red wine adds to these two axes that of  tannins  which expresses its dominance: full-bodied and robust or fresh and light. Deploying a number of colors and as many shades of red, you will discover the different styles of wine as your preferences in terms of dominance , fruit, tannins, spices , will lead you to encounter an infinity of aromas that are available according to a diversity of grape varieties, soils, climates and terroirs. Because a region is home to a diversity of terroirs and the wines of the northern Rhône are distinguished from the more southern ones of the valley ,we do not produce the same wine in Saint-Joseph and Vacqueyras , it is important to refine your geographical knowledge. If we take the Bordeaux vineyards, it is clear that the wines from the left bank are not very comparable to those from the right bank. It’s better to know precisely which continent you want to explore in order to stay on track during a trip, which, in wine country, has no destination, only stopovers. Enjoy your search for your perfect wine !!

Which glass to use ? Champagne flute, Bordeaux glass, white wine glass… There are a multitude of different wine glasses and it is not always easy to choose the right glass during a tasting , Beyond the aesthetic aspect, the the shape of a glass has a real impact on the tasting of a wine. This particularly tall glass of Bordeaux is characterized by a fairly tapered shape and not too tight at the neck. It is advisable to serve the wine by filling it at the shoulder, the widest part of the glass. The glass is not only dedicated to Bordeaux, but to a large majority of red wines. The Burgundy red wine glass has round and generous curves. The opening is narrower than the Bordeaux glass, allowing more restricted ventilation. This flared glass allows you to enhance red wines with an intense color. Ideal for holding a Pinot noir . It is generally one-third full. The Champagne glass is characterized by a thin base and a thin leg. It needs a certain volume to oxygenate the Champagne and a reduced diameter of the neck to concentrate the aromas. The classic Champagne glass is ideal for enjoying a classic champagne. The Champagne flute is recognizable with its tulip shape. We fill the flutes up to half as much as possible. Although serving Champagne in a flute is historical and cultural, the constricted cylindrical shape of the flute compresses the Champagne, confining and constricting it. Contrary to popular belief, this glass is not suitable for tasting Champagne. Indeed even if old habits died hard !

Some specific wine notes that I like and you should enjoy , me think ::)

The Château Chasse-Spleen is an effective brand that can be found in large-scale distribution as well as among Michelin-starred or wine merchants, and half of its volumes are destined for France. This pretty piece of Médoc, one of the flagship properties of appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, is going like a charm. The grape varieties are classic, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. In December 2022, owners Céline Villars-Foubet and Jean-Pierre Foubet acquired neighboring Château Brillette and its 35 hectares of vines. They thus provided the estate with a fourth ridge of gravel whose grapes quickly joined the vats of Château Chasse-Spleen (104 ha). The 2021 vintage, which did not benefit from the best weather conditions. Here is a dark juice that tends towards garnet. On the nose, the aromas of blackcurrant and cherry dominate, associated with some menthol touches. The palate is powerful without losing its elegance. 2021 is a success ! Indeed, Webpage : http://www.chasse-spleen.com/#!/millesimes

The Château Margaux launches a new wine at a more accessible price unveiling a second white wine, which, like Pavillon Blanc, is 100% Sauvignon. After Corinne Mentzelopoulos, manager for 43 years of the holding company which owns Château Margaux , announced that she was giving way to her son last October, Alexis Leven-Mentzelopoulos signed his first feat of arms, by unveiling a new vintage, a rare thing for this jewel of the Médoc, of which this is only the fifth wine launched in five centuries of existence !! This new vintage which will be put on the market in the amount of 8,000 bottles distributed by Place de Bordeaux, To date, the indicative price of Pavillon Blanc Second Vin is 135 euros As a reminder, the first vintage of Pavillon Blanc is commercially available around 350 euros. Go for it is worth it ! Webpage : https://www.chateau-margaux.com/en/vins/pavillon-blanc-du-chateau-margaux

This is an interesting study that I see for the first time,, ! Tasting of the 10 most consumed vintages in France with lots of research to finally obtain the figures to date, by anonymizing the sources. The verdict: in 2023, Mouton-Cadet (one of my first even from Florida days!)retains its leadership, Roche-Mazet rises to second place, and Vieux-Papes beats Listel to the podium for having had the presumption to position itself in a more upscale segment, at least in price matter. Among the most beautiful rises, Bernard Magrez, who made a notable entry into the top 10 (+ 12.3%), and E.Guigal, who went from 8th to 7th place, with an increase of 8.5%. Certainly, none of these references are clearly to be laughed at. But blindly, some would not be ashamed of the comparison with much more expensive wines. A real lesson in anti-snobbery, which should be prescribed to every taster in order to bring things back up to speed. Indeed pricey is not always better !! The ranking : 1. Barons Philippe de Rothschild – Mouton Cadet 2021 Bordeaux 2. Roche-Mazet Cabernet-Sauvignon 3. Vieux-Papes 4. Listel – Grain de Gris 5. M. Chapoutier – Côtes-du-Rhône 2022 , 6. Cellier des Dauphins – Côtes -du-Rhône Village 2022 , 7. E. Guigal – Côtes-du-Rhône 2020, 8. Baron de Lestac – Bordeaux 2020 , 9. JP Chenet – Pays d’Oc Cabernet Syrah 2022 and 10. Bernard Magrez – Les Pierres Fendues 2021

The Côte-Rôtie remains one of the safe bets for lovers of deep red wines, with an aging capacity that can exceed several decades , some of my favorites over the years have been:

Château D’Ampuis E.Guigal 2019 are firstly notes of balsamic, dried tomatoes, paprika, then on the palate a velvety texture, with a lot of charm, despite the tannins still very present. The wood remains quite marked, but the power of the fruit shakes it up, to the point of relegating it to the oblivion of breeding. webpage : https://www.guigal.com/fr/chateau.php

The Paul Jaboulet Ainé – Les Jumelles 2021 , Roundness, indulgence and sensuality make up a mouth as generous as a bouquet of peony: a dynamism which is found on the palate with an intensely fruity substance which peeks out from under the wood. Tannins which will benefit from softening in the cellar, and leave us, in the meantime, with a lovely chocolate finish.   Webpage in construction : http://www.jaboulet.com/

And we like and drink often even visited in Fécamp (see post) not a wine but a very popular drink and we love it !!! The secrets of Grand-Marnier, the essential liqueur of Chandeleur or Candlemas (held this year February 2nd 2024) , After Christmas champagne, the ciders and perries of Epiphany, Grand-Marnier, essential of Candlemas, is invited to close the cycle of Nativity. To impress your guests discover the secrets of an extremely famous liqueur. Today owned by Campari, an Italian group with a well-stocked portfolio which includes, among other brands, Aperol bitters, Skyy vodka, Glen Grant whiskey and the Courvoisier imperial cognac that they just acquired, Grand-Marnier was created in 1880 in Yvelines (dept 78) , in Neauphle-le-Château, a discreet village located about 22 km from Versailles and less than 50 km from Paris, in the Île-de-France region, The essential ingredient of the Crêpe Suzette, a French dessert that could keep you busy soon, invented by the “king of cooks, cooks of kings”, Auguste Escoffier. At the end of the 19C, Louis-Alexandre Marnier decided to revisit curaçao, by macerating the orange peels, not in a neutral alcohol as is customary to do for classic “Triple Sec” like Cointreau, but in Cognac eaux-de-vie. To make Grand Marnier a little more unique, he decided to only choose bitter oranges from the Caribbean and to let the liqueur rest for several months in barrels. Grand-Marnier, an alliance of a local product, an exotic fruit, and traditional breeding, was thus born. Since 2012, under new European regulations requiring factory closures in certain urban areas, orange processing has been relocated to Cognac, in Charente (dept 16). Orange peels from Haiti are first zested before being distilled in a copper still to extract the essence. The bitter orange liqueur is then mixed with cognac and everything is bottled in Gaillon, in Eure (dept 27). And you can see the vats and taste Grand Marnier and eat the crêpe Suzette in the Benedictine palace of Fécamp as we did !! (see post), Webpage: https://www.benedictinedom.com/flamboyant-palais/cocktailbar/

There you go folks, another wine episode of my belle France! The wines news from France that is, superbe, sublime, wonderful, gorgeous, enjoy without moderation but accompanying a meal, family table just perfect. See you in the vineyards of my belle France, Again, hope you enjoy the post as I

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!

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