Paris1972-Versailles2003

Yes! I have been telling the world about this! I used to lived here for over 9 glorious years, and have many posts on the city and its monuments, I like to share from several posts condense into one,, a mini book !, the other things to see in my beloved Versailles. Of course, the individual monuments here have already a place in my blog with pictures. This post will be in my black and white series, no pictures, Therefore , here is my tribute to my city of Versailles, part III !!! Hope you enjoy the post as I

The 98%  of folks coming over do so to see the palace or Chateau de Versailles, actually the Domaine de Versailles as it includes other buildings than the castle; this from a city survey of visitors. However, there is a lot more to see in the City of Versailles.  For those history buffs,like me,  the Domaine de Versailles is the old name, where the castle was, and it included 807 hectares of land (8,1 km2/ 3,1 mi2) vs the 37 of today! I know history is of the victorious… However, this is the place where any changes to the French constitution must take place, any amendments needs to be carry out here.The entire French government is move here including the President, last was in 2009. The first mention of Versailles was written in a charter dated from 1038, in the Abbey of Saint-Père de Chartres  where it was cited the name of a lord named Hugues de Versailles ; he will be the first known lord of Versailles. In 1623, king  Louis XIII  had built a hunting meeting house in the land of about 350 hectares purchased from different owners. By April 1632, king Louis XIII purchased the totality of the lordship of Versailles to his last owner Jean-François de Gondi, bishop of  Paris. The General Estates were held here on May 5 1789 at the Hôtel des Menus Plaisirs and by June 17 1789 upon the suggestion of abbot Sieyés took the current name of National Assembly or « Assemblée nationale ».  The king had closed the  Hôtel des Menus Plaisirs, and the  members of the third estate took to the salle de Jeu de Paume on June 20 1789  where the famous sermon was said ; not to leave until the constitution was agreed.  Immediately after the taking of the Bastille the first noblemen immigrated such as the Count of Artois, future Charles X and younger brother of king Louis XVI . The National Assembly abolished feudalism in August 4 1789. Finally, by October 5-6 1789 the crowds coming from Paris invade the palace and forced the royal family to come to Paris.  A while later, the constituted assembly followed the king and this was the end of its role of Capital of Versailles. It was here that the constitution was done and by the constitution all changes must happenned here. So for this while the city becomes the de facto Capital of France.

The city is pretty much rectangular and all starts at the palace. The three big avenues from it commands all, avenue de Saint Cloud, avenue de Paris, and avenue de Sceaux.  The Castle sits as independent with the neighborhoods coming out from it , mine was Notre Dame. Others are Chantiers, Bernard de Jussieu, Montreuil,Clagny-Glatigny, Porchefontaine , Saint Louis, Satory, and the instance du Château , Versailles has three city train stations the one closest on foot to the Castle/ palace/ museum is on the RER C express trains to the Rive Gauche-château station on ave Général de Gaulle; however, the other two Rive Droite (mine),  and Chantiers are link nicely by bus or walking,

The first I have written about it is the Collegiale Church Notre Dame , the first church of Versailles , done from 1684-1686 ,  keeping the heights on building demanded by Louis XIV, where all the baptismal and birth records of the children of the royal families are kept. This is at 35  rue de la Paroisse, just from the statue of king Louis XIV in front of castle to your left you will see it. For an historical anecdote, the Collegiale de Notre Dame Church is the oldest but when the French revolution for not given in to the old royal grounds, they chose another one see cathedral. Nevertheless as I said , it is very imposing and compact, nice.  First blessed as such in 1754. The organ was done in 1761, and survived the revolution instact. You have the baptismal urn of king Clovis ,the first king of the Franks or Francia=France.  Wonderful huge paintings, and statue of Joanne d’Arc, patron saint of France. A must to see. the exit I take from the gare rive droite in Versailles, closest to me, I would go out on blvd de la Reine, and next to it is the nice and historical Hotel de Clagny. I once again take you to the wonderful , magnificent, highly recommended Marché Notre Dame, (see post) the best, by the place du vieux marché, and parking underground Notre Dame for those daring like me to drive.

Coming more to city center see 4 rue Saint Julien the old post office building, Hôtel des Postes, done in 1752.  poste comes from the word where the stables were kept to relay one horse to another and assuring the transport of passengers. There were 1320 postes and in 1795 took five days to Bordeaux and 125 pounds of money equivalent to a year salary by an artisan of the times.  For 15 days delay the price was 50 pounds.  in main city at 21 avenue de paris you see today the chamber of commerce building, orginal done in 1751 call Hôtel de Georges-Réné Binet . In 1771 the countess of Barry was the last owner, used to house her domestic service! When Louis XV died in 1774 she needed to leave Versailles, the brother of the king the Count of Provence buys the building, the countess was guillotine in 1793. See the old police mansion of Versailles, these were the old stables of Madame du Barry up 19-21 avenue de Paris; and the current chamber of Commerce also the mansion of Madame du Barry nearby. The educational Musée Lambinet, at 54  boulevard de la Reine (wonderful must see) the municipal museum of Versailles since 1932  in the mansion hôtel Lambinet  that showcase the collection retracing the history of Versailles and specially the work of local sculptor Jean-Antoine Houdon. The Centre la marechalerie art contemporaire 5, avenue de Sceaux , wonderful modern art and close to palace and nice parking !!  You, also ,have the sublime  Osmothèque, a private museum since 1990 in the building of the international superior institute of perfumes, cosmetics and aromatics foods or ISIPCA, where they have a collection of perfumes going back to Marie Antoinette ; but only visited by appointment at 36 rue du Parc de Clagny. The archives of the City of Versailles are at the Grande Ecurie du Roi, 1 avenue de Paris ; all the heritage of the City is found here

You ,also, can ask to see at the tourist office the dining room or Salle à manger de l’hôtel de la préfecture et du département, 11-13 avenue de Paris. built in 1863-1867, on the old dog pan of Louis XIV. In march 18 1871 Adolphe Thiers makes the escape from Paris and established here the seat of government. In 1873 McMahon is name president of France here. In 1875 Jules Grévy is the last name here after it was moved back to Paris in 1879. Just a nice walk up from the castle. Going over the other side at 73 avenue de Saint Cloud, you see the door portical of the Chapelle des Augustine or couvent de la reine, her in 1766 the queen Maire Lesczynska creates a school for ladies, and gives over to the augustinian order, she died before done in 1768 but her daughters continue the work, and the school was opened in 1772. Today is the famous lycée Hoche or high school.  You can see the chapelle de l’hôpital royal de Versailles or Hôpital Richaud at 78 blvd de la reine. Done in 1779, it was Louis XIII that made it into a hospital at rue de la paroisse,then Louis XIV transfer it to the current place,and ordered in 1670 an even bigger hospital under the authority of the religious order of Saint Vincent de Paul. The Hôpital Richard, a venerable institution in Versailles who have seen its better days. The Units have been transferred next door to a modern facility ,and the old hospital is been transformed into a luxury condo,apartment complex, which if models show it, will be stunning. The only building left will be the Chapel. It looks nice and the price is as per location. The Chapel  was, in the former Convent of the Augustinians of Versailles or couvent de la Reine, dedicated to the education of young ladies founded by Queen Marie Leszczynka,wife of Louis XV. It was done in 1772. Now a huge private project turn it into a luxurious condo apartment place, leaving the chapel instact! Right closer to the castle at 13 rue des reservoirs, you see the wonderful theater Théatre de Montansier and its beautiful salle or salon.  Opened in 1777 in the presence of Louis XVI and Marie Antoniette. Her real name Marguerite Brunet dite La Montansier, who went on to do other theaters such as that of Théatre des Variétés in Paris, she managed still in 1819 at the age of 89! We move up to nearer the castle at 7 rue des reservoirs ( nice street side entrance to castle), here you see the old Hôtel de Madame de Pompadour, on the side of the opera royal inside the castle you will see this building; built in 1752; the later owner in 1875 turn it into a hotel the Grand Hotel des Reservoirs, a very prestigious address in the early 20C. Diplomats of the III Républic to Emile Zola stayed here.

Moving up on the Montreuil district see the wonderful Maison des Musiciens Italiens at 15 rue Champ-Lagarde, where the Italian musicians ordered to play to louis XIV stayed. They came for the first time in 1710, and the king made renovate a house done between 1686-1692 renovation done in 1752. The garden done by Louis Guillaume Le Monnier in 1762, became friend of the court and Louis XVI, creates the bosquet de la reine in 1775 at the castle gardens, and name first doctor of the king in 1789; he came back after the revolution to this place where he died in 1799 at age of 92! Way up on avenue de paris at no 111 you see the house or Pavillon de Musique de Madame, crossing avenue Chauchard. Done by the countess of Provence sister in law of Louis XVI, Marie Josephine de Savoie,came to established in 1780. She addes an English park , artificial mountain, and chinese pagodas, dairy farms etc, and lake in 1784. Last owner was Alfred Chauchard, the owner of the old stores Grands magasins du Louvre, that finally bequested to the city in 1902. The only condition is that his statue is clean and maintain in perpeauty. Across from here entering from the above property or at 73bis avenue de Paris, you see the  Maison de Madame Elizabeth,  in 1776 Louis XVI buys the house for his sister Madame Elizabeth at the age of 19. She makes parties and teach girls of lesser means, creates a charity for the sick and became known as the Bonne dame de Montreuil, or the good lady of the neighborhood of Montreuil. She convince Louis XVI to buy the village into Versailles in 1787.  She, also, fares bad in the French revolution ,guillotine in 1794 just for speaking out in defense of her brother. She is in process for sainthood, see the Church St Elizabeth in town.

You go to the other neighborhood of Versailles at Saint Louis, you see the Cathedral de Saint Louis, ,named after the king and saint Saint Louis, and cathedral since 1790, another gem that needs to be visit at 4 pl Saint Louis. See the fountain at place saint Louis by the cathedrale, done in 1766  fed by waters from the machine de marly and hill or butte de picardie worked until 1964!! later was found the water not of good quality and the water came from Croissy sur Seine that feeds the city with water and now of better quality since 1896 until today. You now see a plaque that tells you of this story there. Nearby at the Carre à la Terre, you see the Porte d’Angle, history tell us that from 1750 the relationship between Madame de Pompadour and Louis XV were common. they organise meeting at parc aux cerfs, not sure still but historians thinks it was around 82 rue d’Anjou or 4 Rue Saint Médéric behind a door at an angle in wood, such as the one describe here, porte d’angle. Next to the Cathedrale Saint Louis there is a building adjoint , it is the Chapelle des Catéchisme ou de la providence, at place Saint Louis.  Done by donation from Madame de Pompadour and Madame du Barry the chapel was done in 1764.  the architecture is similar to the Church of Saint Symphorien. One of my family’s favorite is the parc Balbi , English style gardens of 2,5 hectares, created by 1785 for  Anne de Caumont -La Force, Countess of Balbi and lover of the Count of Provence (future king Louis XVIII and next brother of Louis XVI).The park is at 12 rue du Maréchal Joffre, on the side of the Potager du roi. I went again by the Potager-du-roi, the vegetable patch for the king Louis XIV, still given out goodies to the general public on Wednesdays.  This one is the one open to the public as the Kings harvest place, there is one bigger behind all the way of the castle properties now accessable by Saint Cyr l-école (see post) on the D307 road.

Another nice neighborhood very much neglected houses the third church of Versailles ,that of  Church of  Saint Symphorien, at 2 pl Saint Symphorien in the Montreuil district. And many more see posts on churches. This is Montreuil, a royal neighborhood, The church done 1764-1770, wonderful paintings from the 18C.  The colorful ,commercial rue de Montreuil leads to Ave des Etats Unis is full of shops and bistros ,very lively at night too. Last we made a tour into the end of rue Royale, to take a look at the Lycée Notre Dame de Grandchamp that houses a private school and next to it at 16 Rue Monseigneur Gibier , you have the Bishop’s office of the diocese of Versailles. And next to it at no 8 the  Chapelle de l’Immaculate Conception. We move on to a more royal site at the  Maison Modéle, building of the Pavillon des Sources at 11 rue Carnot, water came to the city from the forest of Marly and Chesnay since 1682, this house dating from 1683 ,is the first to follow Louis XIV buildings heights in the city, and the reservoir in it worked for two centuries! In 1866 the building becomes a housing site as any other to be live.  There is a plaque in the front door,  that tells you of this message. We go back to rue Carnot and at no 5 you can see a building, this is the Ecuries de la Reine or the Queen’s stables. done in 1682, here were the first stables of the king later of the queen in 1682 to Marie Thérese of Austria (the  Spanish queen of Louis XIV).  The king and queen loves horses, and one time there were 2300 in the city until the revolution.  Not horses but fruits and vegetables were found at the Potager du roi, by 10 rue du Marechal Joffre. next to the Cathedrale de Saint Louis. This was done between 1678-1683 and a statue of its keeper  Jean Baptiste de La Quintinie in 1876. The best products were served at the court, and still you can see the where the rest was given to the needy at 2 rue Hardy where there is still the trap on the door that the food was given out

Moving over to the other side by ave de Sceaux and rue satory there is a edge street call rue de la chancellerie and here are the Conservatoire à Rayonnement Régional, 24 rue de la Chancellerie in the hôtel de la chancellerie built in 1670 facing the Château de Versailles; music,danse, art dramatique are taught here, Ecole des Beaux-Arts 11 rue Saint Simon, fine arts school, Centre Musique Baroque in the hôtel des menus plaisirs , 22 avenue de Paris,and the palais des congrés de Versailles or convention center at 10 rue de la chancellerie, Cinémas , Le Cyrano 7 rue Rameau and Roxane 6 rue Saint Simon. At no 24 there is the Hôtel de la chancellerie where now there is the music conservatory. Done between 1699-1714,  this is the area where at the time most of the nobles and courtisans of the court lived. Just around the castle and many wonderful things found like the first tennis court in France is the Grand Commun ,where the common people that worked in the castle lived. Just around the corner, at the angle of rue des récollects and rue saint julien, you see the Portail de l’église des récollects, which first stone was put in by Louis XIV in 1684, to replace the church destroyed to built the Grand Comun ,call church of Saint Julien. This was an old order of the welcome order or recueillis that were established in Versailles from 1670. Right on the right side of the castle when looking at it is the rue Robert de Cotte; I drive by it every day or every time in the city, you see here the Chateau d’eau or the water services of the city.  They were once serve the splinkers of the fountain of the castle , still inside there is a huge barrel or cube of 1200 cubic meters carry high by stone column 13 meters high, built in 1684, to stock the water from the hill or butte de Montbauron, the water was suck out in about 41 minutes!!! and filled up again. you can still see the inscription at 1 rue Robert de Cotte, Service des eaux, at the entrance to the street rue Peintre Lebrun. you can still see the arch door , looking like a house building today. Here lived the fountain keeper, the engineer in charge of the fountains was François Francine and he lived at 14 rue Hoche not far from the house of André le Notre who lived in no 16, today both houses are gone.

You go to the other side now, at 4-6 rue de l’independance americaine to see the old hôtel de la Surintendance des Bâtiments du roi, the house or building of the builders of Versailles, done in 1683, after the French revolution the last in charge of buildings in Versailles left in exile to Germany ,but the wife remains inside until her passing in 1808! Most past by but dont go in,and its a pity, the Hôtel de Ville or city govt building at 4 avenue de Paris, has a wonderful Salle des Mariages de l’hôtel de ville, a marriage center room.  The old hôtel de Conti rebuilt in 1899 in roccoco style , the room dates from 1723 done for the dukes of Bourbon, the prime minister of Louis XV. Gorgeous room. Going a bit further at no 6 Avenue de Paris, you see the old Hôtel des Gens d’armes de la garde du roi, or the kings guards headquarters. dates from 1723, for the exclusive use of the king done to house 200 guardsmen and 10 officers. A total of 2000 men were kept here forming 14 companies of soldiers, including the guards inside the Louvre of Paris.  55 000 special corps in total all over, covering as much as 50% of the budget.  You can see now the French flag as it house the police HQ today. Beautiful building showing the arms of the Madame.  If you pay attention and play my game we are now going back to the other side by 12 rue de l’independance Americaine, and see the old Hôtel du Grand Contrôle, (now a luxury hotel) purchase in 1680 , and the owners going bankrupt in 1720 the hotel was sold n 1724 to louis XV to established the general controls or budge office.  When the estate generaux was assembled in 1789 by louis XVI, more than 40 controlers have passed! Staying this time on the same street at No 3 rue de l’independance Americaine, you see the door of the old Hôtel de la Guerre or war ministry. done in 1758, to house the secretary of state, it has five floors but not wood all is done with brick to avoid the fires of past ravages, the building was tested in person by Louis XV in 1762. stay on at No 5 ,you see the Galerie de l’hôtel de la marine et des affaires étrangeres. The navy and foreign affaires building.  See a round marble table where peace treaties were signed such as the Seven year wars, and the treaty of Paris of 1768, treaty to annex corsica, and the one on September 3 1783 where England recognised the new nation the United States of America.

We move on to Avenue de la Division Leclerc, to see the wonderful door front of the Portail d’entrée du pavillon de la lanterne, It is the old royal  horse stables established by Le Vau between 1622-1664. Louis XVI  made it the official royal stables in 1787; around the central courtyard, you find a lanterne with seven courtyards smaller of deer, wild pigs, cerfs,phaisants, and other birds.  Inside you ,also, find the old house or pavillon de la duchesse de Bourgogne.(duchess of Burgundy mother of Louis XV).

Going by the Chantiers train station you see at 22 avenue de Paris, corner of rue Eduard Lefébvre, the traces of the foundation of the room where the estates generals met to write the French constitution and the nation.  It is at the Hôtel des Menus-Plaisirs, now a music center. The room is still kept where 1200 deputies met in 1789. Louis XVI does have two previous convocations in 1787 and 1788. History tell us that the abolition of privileges, and feodualism ended on the night of August 4  1789. the adoption of the declaration of the rights of men and citizens on August 26 1789. Here monarchy has its last great representation of the absolute power.

Green spaces in Versailles we have in the Chantiers neighborhood or quartier the Jardin de l’Hôtel de Ville, Jardin des Etangs Gobert, square des Chantiers, In the Gratigny neighborhood we have square Jeanne d’Arc, square Jean Houdon, square Richard Mique, In the Jussieu neighborhood, the square de Jussieu, square Léo Delibes, parc de la Bonne Aventure, In the Satory neighborhood we have quartier la Martiniére, quartier Delpal, quartier Guichard, In the Notre Dame neighborhood (my former) we have Square Bonnefous, Square Hoche, Square Berthier, and parc Semallé, In the Porchefontaine neighborhood we have square de Porchefontaine, square du stade de Porchefontaine, square Saint Michel, square Lamôme, The Saint Louis neighborhood we have jardin des Récollets, Jardin J A Le Roi, Jardin Borgnis Desbordes, Square Saint Louis, Parc Balbi In the Montreuil neighborhood we have Jardin de l’Heure Joyeuse, square André Lefevre, Jardin Blaise Pascal, Square du Berry, Jardin des Musiciens Italiens, Jardin de l’école de Postes, Jardin de l’île de France, The forest parks of parc du Château de Versailles, parc Forestier Picardie, parc forestier porte Verte, and parc du Domaine de Madame Elizabeth. Parkings we have Saint Cloud, Notre Dame, Place d’Armes,  Cathédrale, Europe, Sceaux, Poincaré, and Reine, The markets of Notre Dame, Saint Louis, Jussieu-Montreuil, and Porchefontaine, Also, the marché aux fleurs,

The city of Versailles on its history/heritage:  https://www.versailles.fr/65/decouvrir-versailles

The Versailles tourist office on Versailles: https://en.versailles-tourisme.com/versailles-royal-city.html

The Yvelines dept 78 tourist office on Versailles : https://www.destination-yvelines.fr/visiter-versailles-ville-royale/

There you go folks, my beloved Versailles, worthy of France and the world. You should take time and the opportunity to visit it and beyond the castle/domaine. If you have , considered yourselves lucky and cherished it. I will always have my Versailles. Again, hope you enjoy this mini book post on my city of Versailles, part III !!! as I.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!