Paris1972-Versailles2003

Let me tell you a different story on the wonderful city of the south, the pink City, Toulouse. It is very familiar to me as not only visited as a tourist, and business conferencier, but also as an old University reunion and the home of cousins on wife’s side. Several times over and still very much in our minds for a re visit eventually!  This is a hidden story on the City,as partial as possible just the history of some of the events that make this City so close to the history of Spain, Therefore, here is my historical take on the Republicans of Toulouse. Of course, this will be on my black and white series ,no pictures. Hope you enjoy the post as I.

Since the 20C, Toulouse became home to one of the largest Spanish communities in France. The biggest wave arrived in the wake of the Spanish Civil War, with half a million people crossing the Pyrenees to flee Franco’s victorious forces. It was from Toulouse that the exiled Spanish political class was able to prepare a return to democracy in the post-Franco era. Toulouse retains a special place in modern Spanish history A famous critical moment that gave way for the Nationalist win was the La Retirada, (the retreat) ,the migratory phase of the republican exile began in 1939 and is the most memorable of these. Nearly 500 000 Spaniards fled the Spanish Civil War that began in 1936 and the pro-Franco regime, travelling to France over a two-week period. For all of those who had not given up the struggle against fascism, the proximity with Spain made Toulouse the preferred fallback base. Even though part of this population was to return to Spain after Franco’s victory was consummated, several hundreds of thousands of Spaniards settled definitively in France, and especially in Occitanie region. The Spanish immigration linked to the Republican exile, brought with it a significant cultural contribution, making a profound historical, artistic, and political impact on the city of Toulouse. The future of the two trans-Pyrenean countries was thus modified. Toulouse, capital of the exodus, still bears its trace, as does the whole Occitanie region, as the site of shelter and migrant camps. Today, there are aprox 3.5 millions French of Spanish extractions!

Many Spanish Republicans come to the city and make their resistance center away from Spain with many meetings and fund raising, it then host the exiles after the Victory of Gen Franco in 1939. There are two particular refugees camps like to tell as it, also,concerns other peoples, This was the Camp du Récébédou ,an internment camp for Spanish republicans and Jews, in existence from February 1941 until September 1942, located in the town of Portet-sur-Garonne south of Toulouse. In June 1940 it was used to house refugees, Jews expelled from Germany who were in Belgium and northern France. That July , faced with the influx of Spanish republican refugees and Jews fleeing the occupied zone of France, the city became a reception center for refugees and escapees  The camp was officially closed in October 1942 on the pretext of being too close to Toulouse. In one preserved building, the Musée de la Mémoire (memory museum) was established as a memorial museum dedicated to the history of the camp where visitors can view documents, models and reconstructions. The museum was inaugurated on 6 February 2003 by Elie Wiesel. The other is the The Argelès-sur-Mer concentration camp is a grouping camp initially designed to accommodate refugees from the Spanish civil war during the Retirada (retreat from Barcelona mostly). It was constantly built from February 1939 on the beaches of the town of Argelès-sur-Mer in the Pyrénées-Orientales with more than 250,000 internees passing by the camp from 1939 to 1941, including more than 110,000 only In the period from February to June 1939 it was one of the first and one of the most important French concentration camps perceived as one of the symbols of Retirada. The camp closed in 1941 to become a French youth project under the Vichy regime.

The exodus between 1936-1939 of hundreds of thousands of Spanish republicans to France to escape the barbarity of the war and the political persecution of the Franco regime. The detention in the french concentration camps of Argelès-sur-Mer, Vernet d’Ariège and Récébédou, Toulouse was the epicenter of the reorganization of the guerrilla, the spanish parties, unions, youth and social movements in exile.  The founding of the Hospital Varsovia, the guerrilla schools, the Val d’Aran operation, the reorganization of the PCE, the PSOE, the CNT, the UGT, the massive meetings, the covert assemblies in the Place du Capitole and in the Bourse du Travail, the clandestine press, the Bolero-Paprika operation, the dangerous trips under a fictitious identity to Madrid and Barcelona, ​​the detentions in the Modelo prison, are founding and embryonic elements of the democratic history of Spain.

It is indeed in anticipation of the care to be given to the fighters that the the Agrupación de Guerrilleros Españoles de Toulouse, of a communist obedience, installed in September 1944 in a building in the Saint-Cyprien district a care center intended for the injured and patients of the maquis: the Hospital Varsovia (Warsaw Hospital) was going to take the name of the street where it was established, before receiving the name of the professor of medicine Joseph Ducuing, who had taken an active part in his creation and remains a figure eminent of intellectuals who had then joined the ranks of communist activism. As of September 1944, there was a Congress of the PSOE (Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party), which gathered there until a dozen times in the following years. In the aftermath of the Liberation, the Republican exile manifests itself by a real editorial explosion, The Republican Spain published articles in French and Spanish, and seeking to give a pluralist image of a divided exile and to support the cause with its French sympathizers; Published in Toulouse from 1945 to 1947, it then transferred its writing to Paris before disappearing in 1949, with the closing of the Republican government in exile. The first copy of the venerable organ of the PSOE, El Socialista, which reappears in Toulouse in October 1944, it was still in Toulouse that the main titles of the anarchist press, in particular CNT, spokesperson led by the organization by the anarchist press, and much later, in 1959, the Revue Cénit, which manifests a real cultural opening. Let us also quote, on the side of Catalanism, the newspaper Foc Nou, obviously written in the Catalan language, which will appear until 1947.

The activity of the Librairie des Éditions espagnoles (Spanish edition bookstore) founded in 1946 later to create a branch, which became autonomous, the bookstore opened at 1 Boulevard d’Arcole continued its activity until 1972, The first, Iberia theater, will continue its activity for many years, with a repertoire also comprising many pieces delivering a political message than comedies of pure entertainment. Several groups are devoted to the Catalan repertoire. The Salle du Ciné-Théâtre Espoir-now the headquarters of the Cinémathèque de Toulouse-(see post) is particularly welcoming for these shows. The association that was born in 1959 and adopted the name of the prestigious intellectual institution that was and is still the Ateneo de Madrid. If the initiative had returned to militants of anarchist origin, they wanted to ensure its independence from any organization and to open it to a certain pluralism-to the exclusion of any communist , others held meeting too such as the CNT participation, however ,at the Salle du Sénéchal, saw these Hispanists alternate with personalities from the Republican exile, The Casal Català founded in 1944 on Place du Capitole settled at 7, rue des Novars in 1952 and today welcomed the Associació Tolosncéc de la Cultura Catalana [Cultural Association of the Catalans of Toulouse, It experienced an emblematic highlight in 1952, with the organization of the Floral Jocs, the famous literary competition modeled on the Toulouse floral games formed in 1945.

Some spots I went by but not all are : the Chamber of Commerce hall in Toulouse. In 1940 Anti-Franco forces formed the Union Nacional Espanola in Spain, composed of all political parties, from extreme left to catholic right. Spanish republicans in France, in exile organized a branch union immediately on December 2, 1944  Here too, the Spanish Comunist party held meeting until prohibite in 1950 ,in the back of this square Place Saint Sernin you find at 3 rue Merly the offices of the CNT (union of anarchist orientation) .The quay Quai de l’Exil Républicain Espagnol, this bank will witness between 1938 and 1939 the most massive wave of refugees. Nearly 200,000 people cross the border on foot to reach the barracks of this river region, Spanish Republican Red Cross. The Rue Pargaminière has a series of most important events in its history as to the organization of exile in the pink city. The first dispensaries of the Republican Red Cross at no 51. The Jacobins refectory (see post) also in the 69 Rue Pargaminière is the entrance to the Jacobins convent refectory. In these magnificent rooms, political meetings of the utmost importance were held during socialist and anarchist life in 1946 and 1948 by the PSOE. The Galerie d’Arcades of the Place du Capitole (see post) ; the history of the city of Toulouse is told in the paintings of its arcades, where part of Spanish history is represented. The gate of Bachelier opens onto the courtyard of the Cinema L’Espoir (today the Cinémathéque ), and former headquarters of the PSOE (Socialist Spanish workers’ party); here in 1972 Felipe Gonzalez restart the party. At the first floor you had the Casa del Pueblo or people’s house as well as the offices of the Toulouse section of the PSOE. The heritage and the artistic and cultural potential offered by the republican community are invaluable. The Cinema L’Espoir (hope), in rue du Taur, welcomed many theatrical performances such as, for example, the misunderstanding, of Camus. At No 71 rue du Taur, on the fourth floor you had the UGT (union on the left) its national group as well as the seat of the SDE (union . The Bourse du Travail (Labor Stock Exchange), One of the buildings surrounding the eclectic Saint-Sernin Basilica (see post) was the place where political activity of the Communist family was organized, in time, The Place Wilson (see post) we will walk in what was known, among the exiled community, like * El Parlamento * (Parliament), a place where refugees found themselves to discuss, go to the cinema or even distribute the Spanish press. And the Halle aux grains (see post) we will finish the visit to the current national orchestra. This building shared the district with the former Spanish Ateneo who hosted thousands of republican demonstrators during many socio-cultural meetings of the most representative of the second half of the 20C. Here they heard the Pasionaria (extreme left) in 1945, but especially welcome all adherents of the CNT. At no 7 rue Gambetta was the Hôtel de Paris when here in 1947 the PSOE reunites to split from the republican government and established negotiations with the monarquist (the first time…..). At 30bis rue Valade, meeting in 1971 of the XI Congress of the UGT union as well as several by the JSE movement (socialist spanish youth). At No 69 rue du Taur was the siege of the PSOE in exile while the death of Largo Caballero abril 1946. At No 17 rue de Rémusat, was held the 2nd Congress of the UGT in exile September 1946. At no. 4 Rue Belfort, since August 1945 the seat of the MLE-CNT,FUL,and SIA ,later the secretariat intercontinental of the CNT. At no 6 Place Wilson, where it was the Cinéma Plaza several meeting were held of different political views. At no 54-56 Blvd Carnot, on the former Cinéma Les Nouveautés also several meetings and conferences were held. At No 14 rue de l’Etoile at end of 1959 the anarcho sindicalists created the Ateneo Español open to all democratic views without reference to any religion. …At Cour Dillon there were barracks installed end of the war to welcome many exiles dispensary, maternity, from the Hospital Varsovia (Warsaw) site of Casal Català, and theater. At No 7 rue de Navars , the Casal Català was founded in October 1944 and installed since 1952.The Hospital Varsovia was at no. 15 rue Varsovie created since the Fall of 1944 by the guerrilas and the FFI (Free French) where Spanish doctors and nurses took care of the wounded until 1950; it became a hospital for all and later the clinic Joseph Ducuing.You can visit the cemetery Saint Cyprien at no 63 rue du Cimetiére Saint Cyprien to see the tomb of Federica Montseny the first women minister of Europe, she led the CNT. Finally, at the no 85 avenue des Minimes, at the entrance to the garden jardin Claude Nougaro Casa de España (house of Spain) you can see the Monument à l’Exil Espagnol (monument to the Spanish exiles) work of Joan Jordà.

A bit of chronological sort of events tell us that in 1939 the French border was openned to thousands upon thousands of Spaniards fleeing the dictatorship of Franco in Spain. Mostly settling it around or in Toulouse. In 1944 Franco built the Linea P a line of bunkers over 450 kms (279 miles) to protect Spain from a French invasion. In 1946-1948 was the closing of the Spanish borders with France, In 1973 France and Spain signed treaty to fix the frontiers, (this was minor as already existed since 1660) name delegates to enforce the limits, and the maintenance of  it. By 1985 was the signing of the first Schengen agreement ratify by France and Spain in 1990. In 1986 Spain entered the European Union, and many good things thereafter not realised still by many, In 1993 Customs postes are eliminated in the frontier. They were at Urdos (see post) on the French side !! After many checks passing by here before! In 2003 was the opening of the Somport Tunnel; and I tried it first yes!!! After going over the old route on first gear with an VW Golf! In 1990 with my then girlfriend later wife Martine!!

This is something I know for years but the centrally controlled French government still keeps it away, glad it took a British to tell it all, The story that France constructed for itself after WWII goes like this: the country was liberated by the Resistance with some help from the Allies, and save for “a handful of wretches,” to use the words of General Charles de Gaulle, the rest of France’s citizens behaved like true patriots. But nothing could be further from the truth. In his new book, Fighters in the Shadows: A New History of the French Resistance, British history professor Robert Gildea deconstructs this rhetoric, drawing up a detailed portrait of the occupation years with a critical eye.Rather than calling it the French Resistance, this expert on the subject likes to talk about “resistance in France” because of the enormous amount of foreigners who joined the fight against Nazism ,including thousands of Spanish Republican fighters. Many Spanish Republicans who had fought against Franco found themselves trapped in France at the outset of WWII. Their goal was to liquidate the Nazis first, then Franco. In fact, they led a failed attempt at invading Spain in 1944. These Republicans were not just the members of La Nueve,(see post) the legendary brigade that was the first to enter Paris in August 1944 (not the Leclerc French) , yet whose role was silenced for years. It was not until 2008 that street plaques were unveiled showing the path they took ; indeed indeed see the park next to the Hôtel de Ville of Paris (see post). The liberation of Toulouse, on August 19, 1944, was coordinated by forces led by Jean-Pierre Vernant, but Spanish Republicans played a major role in it. Southern regions such as Périgord and cities like Foix were entirely liberated by the Spaniards, a fact that De Gaulle never fully appreciated.

Some webpages for references on visiting the pink City of Toulouse or Tolosa in Spanish !

The City of Toulouse and its heritage : https://metropole.toulouse.fr/sortir/patrimoine/explorer-2000-ans-dhistoire/lieux-et-monuments-de-toulouse

The Toulouse tourist office on must to see : https://www.toulouse-visit.com/toulouse-trail-10-must-see-sites

The Haute Garonne dept 31 tourist office on Toulouse : https://www.hautegaronnetourisme.com/des-emotions-pour-de-vrai/la-haute-garonne-en-lettres-capitole/

The Occitanie region tourist office on Toulouse : https://www.visit-occitanie.com/en/discovering/major-sites/toulouse/

There you go folks, this post tells a bit on a long sad story about the whims of civil war can do still today in many places due to horrific governments, In this ,Toulouse, played a historical important rôle that is feld even today as Toulouse is very Spanish indeed. One of my favorites in France, And this my dear readers is the Republicans of Toulouse . Again, hope you enjoy the post as I

Enjoy your week, happy travels, good health and many cheers to all !!!