Again back with new work on the best ofwines news of France. By the way for the non Romans LIII is no 53, The wines of France are just super simply awesome and a great tradition. Often imitated, some time equaled ,but never surpass! Therefore, let me tell you some news shall we. Hope you enjoy it as I.
As the 163rd Hospices de Beaune auction approaches, Maison Albert Bichot is teaming up with Soundivine to offer a rare and limited synesthetic experience: the story of the Hospices told in music. It is a wooden enclosure, with an elegance as natural as it is crafted. Taking on the contours of a magnum of wine, the device designed by the French manufacturer combines leather and metal, for an auditory experience that is also aesthetic. A precious box set, sold in 23 copies, a nod to the vintages currently in production, which includes a bottle of Beaune 1ᵉʳ Cru cuvée Dames Hospitalières vintage 2020 and a Soundivine speaker in magnum format. Once said box is opened, the highlight of the show is revealed to the ear. A playlist designed by Albert Bichot, who chronologically sings the century-old history of the Hospices and its contribution to the international influence of Burgundy wines. There is no doubt that tasting the accompanying vintage will illustrate the prestige of this great story. An early vintage with finely delicate aromatics, the 2020 version confirms the excellence of the know-how of Albert Bichot, whose Beaune 1er cru has been sold at auction as number 1 for more than 25 years.
The Beaujolais and Beaujolais-village en primeur, a young wine intended to be consumed in the months following the grape harvest: this is the simple definition of a product with a much more voluble history. It was first an insurrection in 1951 against a decree prohibiting the sale of wines of the year before December 15, preventing winegrowers from marketing their wine and receiving their emoluments immediately after bottling. It was then a cry from the heart passed down to posterity. “Beaujolais Nouveau has arrived !” Par excellence, the bar wine, without pretensions. The twelve appellations that make up Beaujolais, Beaujolais Nouveaux have made Beaujolais known throughout the world. It is the second best-known appellation globally, after Champagne. To combat the prejudices that rained down on the new wines of his region, Georges Dubeouf needed neither weapon nor shield. From the banana taste episode in the 1980s to the establishment of a Beaujolais Nouveau defense committee in 2009, the merchant to whom we owe the perpetuation of the new wine festival, will have had no stopped defending what was then considered “the poor man’s wine” In the 1960s and 1970s, it was in the corks of Lyon, in the bistros and in popular banquets that the new wine became democratized, which ended up convincing the starred chefs, Georges Blanc and Paul Bocuse, eternal traveling companions of the “Pope of Beaujolais”, and even seduced Bernard Pivot, a writer and critic who loved wine. It is thanks to a partnership strategy that Georges Duboeuf manages to take winegrowers to the ends of the world, and to make Japan and the United States, in particular, the first importers of Beaujolais primeur version. A visionary whose son keeps the spiritual heritage alive today, because, it is well known, a pope never dies. Indeed
At the Domaine de Chevalier, Olivier Bernard proudly wears his 40th vintage and the colors of the appellation. to convert our properties to organic, including La Solitude, Lespault-Martillac and Clos des Lunes in Sauternes, a Grand Cru Classé de Graves, the vineyard now extends over 55 hectares. The future is underway at the Chevalier domain. We climb over scaffolding, pass under the cables hanging from the ceilings, circulate between cellars and a main courtyard in the middle of work. The old concrete vats are being replaced by new stainless steel vats and wooden vats, the entire refrigeration process has been redesigned, and the electrical neutrality of the technical buildings will be achieved by the end of the year 2023.
Fruit, leaf, root, flower: does the lunar calendar have an impact on the taste of wine? On a broader scale, January gives rise to the hope of renewal, March the impatience of a warm spell that never ends, June the imminence of a time of pause, October the return of wool and rains without consequences, December the excitement of the holidays and the palpable anxiety of family meals. It is now commonly accepted that the position of the Moon with respect to the Earth influences the behavior of the elements, starting with the movement of the tides, but also that of plants. And as our silver-gray satellite tirelessly continues its journey from one constellation of stars to another, each of them has been associated with water, fire, air and earth, and Empirical observation has demonstrated that each cycle favors different agricultural activities: tillage, planting, harvesting, etc. Without much surprise, the fruit and flower days are welcomed with the greatest joy, while the more capricious leaves and roots are made guilty of wines with abnormally earthy, vegetal aromas marked by bitterness , According to the scientist Marc-André Selosse the Moon has an influence on the plant world , As attractive as it may seem, the idea according to which certain wines appear to us sometimes more dazzling, sometimes more austere, unfortunately does not seem sufficiently supported for us to be able to comfortably rely on heaven. It doesn’t matter whether you are Aries, Virgo or Sagittarius: the key to the mystery is actually found deep within yourself. Indeed !!
What to drink to ward off bad weather? Preferably full-bodied, warm and comforting. No weather cockroach can resist a good, full-bodied red that hides rays of sunshine in its robust tannins. Whether it is from the Rhône valley, Bordeaux, or the South-West, the main thing is to choose it old and weathered: its warming power increases with time. If mulled wine spices bore you a little in the long run, here is a variation that renews the genre: three slices of galangal (fresh or dried), a bottle of red wine, a star anise, a small piece of cassia (Chinese cinnamon ), ten black peppercorns, four green cardamoms, two cloves, the zest of an orange. Let everything simmer in a covered saucepan for ten minutes, remove from the heat and drink hot. Salut !!!
The Billecart-Salmon family business has just invested in the estate of Jérôme Bretaudeau, winemaker from the Nantes region. On the one hand, there is Jérôme Bretaudeau who settled in Gétigné, near Nantes in 2001, farming only four hectares. Certified in biodynamic cultivation since 2016, he now cultivates 20 hectares of white and red. He is considered one of the pioneers of the revival of Muscadet where he still explores the grandeur of the terroir to make exceptional wines. On the other, we find the Billecart-Salmon house, founded more than 200 years ago, one of the last champagne houses still family-run and independent, managed by Mathieu Roland-Billecart. Its vintages are distributed in luxury hotels, fine restaurants and wine merchants, in more than a hundred countries around the world. Another wine combination to follow,,,,,
During his state visit to France, King Charles III of England visited Château Smith Haut Lafitte. A consecration for the youngest of the Bordeaux appellations which inaugurates a new chapter in its existence by focusing on the international market. Celebrate the inauguration of the Europe-André Lurton roundabout, at the exit of Léognan, a thankless median originally called the roundabout of Europe for short. Cleaned up and renamed in honor of the founder of the youngest Bordeaux appellation with 14 classified growths, the roundabout is now adorned with two metal totems bearing the image of André Lurton. Because the AOC of 10 towns (Cadaujac, Canéjan, Gradignan, Léognan, Martillac, Mérignac, Pessac, Saint-Médard-d’Eyrans, Talence and Villenave-d’Ornon) created by decree on September 9, 1987 would never have seen the day without his sagacity. An essential figure in Bordeaux (who died in 2019), he had a reputation for being as charismatic as his character was strong. interview the 57 owners of the AOC, including 14 grands crus, to immerse yourself in the history of each one and their desiderata. As for a brand portrait of “The Bordeaux spirit”. A new identity more in line with this “je-ne-sais-quoi” which symbolizes elegance. The Bordeaux spirit is also a reference to the essence of Pessac-Léognan, to its past, the present, the future.
It is on this very ancient terroir of Graves de Bordeaux, formerly a provost suburb, that the first signs of wine production were attested 2,000 years ago. It was here in the 18C, on the slopes of the Domaine Haut-Brion where wine production has been documented since 1521, that the New French Claret was born. A light-colored red wine for which the English market was on fire and which radically changes the face of a Bordeaux region hitherto traditionally renowned for its whites. The only premier grand cru classified in 1855 among a very restricted circle of five châteaux to be proud of it, including four in the Médoc ,Haut-Brion remains a beacon which illuminates and carries the entire region now enshrined in the town André Lurton made the acquisition of Château La Louvière in 1965. Ten years later, he acquired Château Couhins-Lurton, a classified growth from Graves. André Lurton leads the fight ; combining the functions of director of the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council (CIVB), president of the Hautes Graves wine union of Bordeaux (1974-1980) and of the Pessac and Léognan union (1980-1987), he fought hard and fast. more to recognize the characteristics of the soil, the climate and the traditions of production of red and white wines on this exceptional hilly wine region, covered with vineyards and forests. In 2023, the water has passed under the bridges. Pessac-Léognan has regained its surface area (1,850 ha today) and its combativeness. Other favorite,good fortunes have always invested there. Thus the grand cru classified in white and red, Château Latour-Martillac. When the merchant Edouard Kressmann became interested in it in 1871, he launched a Graves Monopole Dry made from a gravelly cut. In 1930, his son Alfred acquired the estate and restructured it before, in 1954, his grandson Jean realized the family dream of acquiring the plateau which separated the estate from the village. For Haut-Brion, which was having a bad time in the 1930s, it was the New York banker Clarence Dillon who acquired it in 1935 while he was boarding the transatlantic which was taking him home. One hundred and fifty years later, business leader Bernard Magrez made a radical professional change by leaving the world of spirits to devote himself to that of wine, of which the rebirth of Château Pape Clément in Pessac was the first step. he decided to support young entrepreneurs with disruptive ideas by creating a start-up incubator in Château Le Sartre, southwest of Léognan. In 1990, ex-ski champions and ex-owners of the Go Sport brand, Florence and Daniel Cathiard fell in love with Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, which they brought out of its sleep to make it the flagship that it is now. In 1997, it was Brussels entrepreneurs Alfred and Michèle Bonnie who gave in to the sirens of the Grand Cru Classé Château Malartic-Lagravière after separating from their universal stain remover business Eau écarlate. At the end of 2010, it was the turn of real estate developer Patrice Pichet to get excited about the Carmes-Haut-Brion François Bouquier, current owner of the Domaine de Grandmaison, purchased in 1939 by his ancestor, a simple agricultural worker forced to leave his native Auvergne to find work in the cod drying factories in Bègles, create his own in 1930 and fall for these few acres of vines in a landscape of valleys and forests which reminded him of his homeland, Ah the story of wines is the story of the human spirit en vino veritas !!!
The Prince Robert of Luxembourg, owner of Clarence Dillon: the Haut-Brion is the oldest luxury brand in the world, At the helm of the family business Domaine Clarence Dillon, the great-grandson of New York banker Clarence Dillon perpetuates the spirit of adventure of his ancestor who bought Château Haut-Brion out of passion, in 1935. At the time all the major vineyards were for sale there, including Haut-Brion. Legend has it that he decided on Haut-Brion in a few moments while he was already on the boat returning to New York. When one of his associates sent him a telex on the boat that was taking him back to America that said “I believe we can acquire Haut-Brion if we act fast.” let’s act fast), he responded with two words: “Act fast.” This is the short version. The promise of the family business Domaine Clarence Dillon is our wines. Their names take precedence, Château Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, but also Château Quintus in Saint-Émilion. They,also have the Clarence Dillon Wines trading house, the restaurant Le Clarence in Paris as well as a retail house , La Cave du château , and the Pavillon Catelan in Pessac. Nevertheless, Pessac-Léognan is part of their history. In 2026, they will be the first in Bordeaux to offer a completely carbon neutral adobe winery. The site will combine the highest technical standards, comfort and safety of employees, and respect for the environment. It will include a museum which will bring to life the history of Haut-Brion and Pessac-Léognan. They have been working on this project for ten years. The story continues…..
At Château Carbonnieux, the fourth generation of Perrins watches over the 100 hectares of vines in one piece. It is a haven of peace fifteen minutes by car from the center of Bordeaux, a 13C building surrounded by trees that reach up to the sky. A pecan tree was even planted by Thomas Jefferson, during his visit to the region in 1787. The Château Carbonnieux is a monastic concept, a dream of self-sufficiency, with its artisans, and its water mills. At the slightest ray of sunlight, the rectangular courtyard is flooded with sunlight. The interior rooms, the corridors that run between unfathomably thick walls, remain dark. With its four towers, the residence has a Périgord touch. Armagnac could be distilled there. Wine is made there well, at the intersection of the three towns of Léognan, Cadaujac and Villenave-d’Ornon. It has 200 ha of land, including 100 ha of vines. The property, in poor condition, was acquired by the Perrins, a family of winegrowers who returned from Algeria in 1956. Marc Perrin also bought Château Tour Léognan where he produced the property’s second wine. Then began a long period of restructuring of the vineyard. A new vat room will be built in 1990. Today, the Carbonnieux vineyard is made up of 119 plots in one piece. In Carbonnieux, have always had a minimum of a third of Semillon when others have gone for 100% Sauvignon. Today, Asia is starting to drink white wine, notably Vietnam, Indonesia and China. They opened up to white wines thanks to Champagne. The red Château Carbonnieux is spicy, with a smooth attack and a nice length. A wine marked by classicism. Old vintages, like the 2010, are remarkable. But the strength of the property remains white. 45% of the estate’s surface area is dedicated to it. It is said that in the 16C, Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent had the precious white wine delivered to him. More recently, the Pessac-Léognan appellation has been marked by personalities like oenologists Émile Peynaud or Denis Dubourdieu, owners like André Lurton, all white wine fanatics. Wine is marketed by traders , Château Carbonnieux is not certified organic, but it announces doses of sulfur lower than those authorized in biodynamics.
In the bucolic setting of Château Le Sartre, Bernard Magrez is shaping the wine world of tomorrow by hosting the first start-up incubator dedicated 100% to wine. There are already 88 project leaders who have been supported in two years by Start-Up Win, the first incubator dedicated 100% to wine, beer and spirits. A structure created by businessman Bernard Magrez within Château Le Sartre in 2021. For two years, 49 future entrepreneurs have been permanently welcomed in the middle of the vineyards, within the framework of beautiful architecture built in the 19C, facing the beginning of the Landes forest, where the century-old pines sway gracefully. In the very heart of the Pessac-Léognan appellation, the 33-hectare property was purchased in December 2017 by Bernard Magrez, Representative of this terroir located twenty minutes from the city center of Bordeaux, 23 hectares are devoted to red and 10 hectares to white. Renovated by the former owners (the Perrin family, Château Carbonnieux), the castle could have been rented for weddings or seminars.
The town of Pessac-Léognan is an asset to the Bonnie family which returns it well. the story of a Belgian success in Bordeaux, In 1997, after two years of searching on the left bank, Alfred-Alexandre and Michèle Bonnie stumbled upon the Château Malartic-Lagravière, The businessman of Belgian origin who made a career in Belgium, the United States and Argentina. In two years, new technical infrastructures were built, including a gravity cellar, and the modest original house was tripled and restored in the “castle spirit”. The garden has been carefully drawn up, and from 19 hectares planted, the vineyard has now grown to 73 hectares. An area which has included the 20 hectares of Gazin Rocquencourt since 2005. The whole is made up of 66 hectares of red and seven hectares of white. Since in May 2019, Alfred-Alexandre and Michèle Bonnie handed over to their two children, Véronique and her brother Jean-Jacques are officially co-owners of the Bonnie-Malartic vineyards.
The Château Brown is one of the eco-responsible gems of Pessac-Léognan. It must be said that thirty minutes by bike from the city center of Bordeaux, Château Brown is a gem. With minimal sulphite content, hand-sewn production: 60 hectares, 31 hectares of vines in one piece, gravel soil, deep clay subsoil. Here, 26 hectares are devoted to reds – cabernet sauvignon (53%), merlot (45%), petit verdot (2%). On deep gravel and beautiful clay, 5 hectares are reserved for whites ; Sauvignon (60%), Sémillon (40%). The vineyard is surrounded by a forest of century-old oaks, chestnuts and pines. Like in fairy tales, the visitor enters via a long avenue of plane trees planted in the 19C. At the very end, a dream of stones: a ceremonial building left in its original state, due to lack of funds to restore it to its former glory. Beehives, hedges, a henhouse, an orchard, a 700 m2 flower farm in the middle of plots of vines, bat nest boxes, preserved wetlands, and a very reduced use of phytosanitary products as part of reasoned management of the vineyard certified High Environmental Value (HVE) level 3 since 2018. This balance is felt in a limited production of 120,000 to 130,000 bottles per year. The soil of Château Brown reveals traces of vines since the 12C, when Aquitaine was under English rule. But it was at the end of the 18C that its new owner, the Scottish merchant John Lewis Brown, passed on his surname and established its reputation. To the point of being forgotten twice during the classification of the Graves (1953 and 1959). Brown began to rediscover his beauty in 1994 thanks to Bernard Barthe. Ten years later, the Mau family, associated with the Dutch Dirkzwager family, took over.
There you go folks, another wine episode of my belle France! The wines news from France that is, superbe, sublime, wonderful, gorgeous, enjoy without moderation but accompanying a meal, family table just perfect. See you in the vineyards of my belle France, Again, hope you enjoy the post as I
And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!
Paris1972-Versailles2003 