Paris1972-Versailles2003

And here I am again updating and revising my older posts. I have a newer post on this one with pictures but as the first post will leave in my black and white series. This is an icon of Madrid and I lived walking distance from it, as visit at least by it every time in the city. I will speak about perhaps a controversial issue, not fully understood or traditions gone out the window in our current world. The bulls corridas and especially those at the Monumental de Ventas in Madrid. This is a great tradition with bulls that are giving the best care and up bringing in the world today, they are pampered. Therefore, here is my take on the bulls at Ventas, and San Isidro !!! Hope you enjoy the post as I

The plaza of Ventas opened in 1931 with a capacity for 23 798 persons, and a neo mudéjar architecture;  been the biggest in Spain for the size and the fame. The plaza is composed of a main bullring  diameter measuring 60 meters , and the callejon or alley of 2,20 meters.  The resting place of the bulls is divided into three sections. the left gate are where the first three bulls come out and the two replacements if needed .The Central gate where they come in and out the cabestros or bell ax  and the right gate where come out the last three bulls.

The arena belongs to the neighborhood of  Guindelera in the district of  Salamanca. The metro line 2 and 5 Ventas is right in front. Even thus the bullring is name Ventas and the neighborhood with same name is just across the beltway bridge under passes the M 30 road. It is also, in the district of Ciudad Lineal! 

A bit of history I like tell us that upon request of king Felipe IV ,the count of Olivares built an arena in 1630 at the site of Buen Retiro (Retiro park)  to give replacement to the Plaza Mayor where many corridas were held. Another arena was built in 1737 on the location of Soto de Luzon. Later, king Felipe V ordered built another arena that give  management to the  Sala de Alcaldes de la Casa y Corte in 1743; this is the Puerta de Alcalà arena. On the same spot ,king Fernando VI ordered built another arena that gives the hospitals the management of it! It was in 1875, near Calle Aragon ( now part of the calle de Alcalà) that another arena was built under the name of Las Ventas , the name that today we know as the Monumental de Ventas.

During the Spanich Civil War between 1936-1939 the arena was closed and open again in May 1939. The first bull to participate in the arena was called Hortelano, and the bullfighter name was Aguililla (little eagle). The arena is used as a concert hall events as well. Best to see the stables of the horses, the bulls resting barns, the Arena itself of course, the Big gate or Puerta Grande, the stands, and the statue dedicated to El Cordobés outside facing Calle de Alcalà.

Things to see, do and eat around it my favorites of course.

There is ,also, a fine museum about the art call Museo Taurino with interesting objects and architecture that will bring many even if no interest to the corridas; the museum is in the back of the Monumental , you walk around it. It, also has a chapel devoted to the Virgen de Guadalupe and to the Virgen de la Paloma, patrons of Mexico and Madrid, respectively. The museum webpage: https://lasventastour.com/es/la-plaza/el-museo-taurino/

First of all, the Feria de San Isidro is already named of community interest meaning its part of the culture, and protected by government laws.  The conduit of the Feria and the participation of the bulls have rules established from the 18C very precise to avoid what some today might call animal abuse. However, the animal is the best protected of them all!!!  This is a favorite pastime in Spain dating back to the 15C, and Madrid has the most event of any region. The Madrid area counts with 90 bulls of Lidia race ranches with 14000 hectares or about 34580 acres. The locaties in the community of Madrid with the most activities are  Colmenar Viejo, El Escorial, Guadalix de la Sierra, Aranjuez ,and  Soto del Real.

The Festival or feast of San Isidro is enormous and a must see at least once in  your life. In 2018 there will be a corrida internacional, with bulls from different countries so far accepting are : Juan Bautista (France), Juan del Álamo (Spain), Luis David Adame (México), Joaquín Galdós (Perú), Jesús Enrique Colombo (Venezuela), and maybe Luis Bolívar (Colombia) , and the horse swordmen  Joao Moura(Portugal). All of San Isidro is this year from May 11-15. See next feast when possible at official webpage: https://www.sanisidromadrid.com/

My recollection as a young boy in Madrid was been taken at Las Ventas to see the rajoneros or the men on horse poking the bulls and taken into the arena itself. I lived not far from here in Quintana, two metro /subway stops. It was the boys hangout in another era.

A bit about San Isidro, he was born in Madrid in 1082 and died there in 1172, tradition tells us that San Isidro made a spring gush out water while ploughing the land, at the same spot, a  chapel was built ordered by Empress Isabel in 1528, after Prince Felipe drank water from the well and was cure. Later , Baltasar de Zúñiga, Marquess of Valero, built the current day hermitage, with a single nave and a dome. San Isidro was canonized in 1622 by Pope Gregory XV, at the same time as Ignatius of Loyola, Francis Xavier, Teresa of Avila, and Philip Neri. In 1811 the Sacramental Cemetery San Isidro was built on the apse, the cementary is located at paseo Ermita del Santo, 78 in Carabanchel just across river manzanares from the former Vicente Calderon Stadium, nearest metro is at Marques de Vadillo,line 5.

On May 15 the patron’s day, at the La Pradera de San Isidro (or san isidro meadows) a pilgrimage is done which dates back to shortly after the death of the Saint. By noon, the Royal Collegiate Church of San Isidro host the Grand Mass ,after the Eucharist the bishop of Madrid makes his way to the meadow,and blessed the water from the well.  In the afternoon, the image of San Isidro and his wife, Santa Maria de la Cabeza (also, a Saint) , are paraded through the streets, from Calle del Sacramento to the Plaza de la Villa, via Calle del Cordon. Nowdays the procession is change a bit as from the 19C on many buildings are done by the river Manzanares, and today there is the Madrid Rio promenade. The pilgrims would leave the city via Cuesta de la Vega and Calle de Segovia singing and praying along the way.  On arrival at the chapel, they would attend mass and kiss the remains of the saint, contained in an 18C shrine. They would then drink water from the spring as tradition still holds true today.

One area where my Mom shopped was at the now call Mercado de las Ventas  (before the Canillas) almost across from the back of Monumental de Ventas. webpage: https://www.mercadoventas.es/

Continue down the above street to reach the wonderful park of  Quinta de la Fuente del Berros.  Out of Arena turn right towards Plaza Manuel Becerro and see the Eva Duarte de Peron park at Calle del Dr Goméz Ulla, the park makes like a triangle in the square.  Out of the arena left and you pass the beltway M-30 Avenida de la Paz and you are in Calle de Alcalà , metro stop Carmen and then Quintana on line 5 and you are in my old neighborhood. (see posts)

The official monumental Ventas : https://www.las-ventas.com/informacion-general.html

The servitoro site has info in English and ticketing as the season is from March to October when possible if virus control: https://www.servitoro.com/en/220-bullfight-tickets-madrid-las-ventas?svtaff=1n7ejq953l1724mtam75

And if the post made you an aficionado, mundotoro or world of the bulls will tell you all the news about it in Spanish: https://www.mundotoro.com/

There you go folks enjoyed the ride, and can understand the world of bullfights, heck I have seen cow fights as well, but they get extra treatment and well fed, we end up having some later too! Hope you enjoy this post on the Monumental of Ventas, and fully understand this art is more than just the bulls, its a Spanish tradition the world comes over to see. And now for many years also in several Latin American countries as well as in France. Again, hope you enjoy this post on the bulls at Ventas, and San Isidro !!! as I.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!