Wines news of Spain XIX

Its time again to tell you on the wines of my dear Spain, As said, this goes back from my beginnings ,and I still go for them everywhere, I have taken again on the series and coming back at you with my wines news of Spain  XIX . Of course post No 19 or the non Romans, Hope you enjoy the post as I.

Spanish wine exports registered a negative evolution in the accumulated to October 2023: they lost 3% in value, to €2,406.1 million (-77.1 million) and 3.6% in volume, to €1,693.4 million liters (-62.8 million). The losses recorded by DOP wines (-€65 million and -27.8 million liters) and bulk wines (-€22.7 million and -21 million liters) stand out.

After a very good start to the millennium, with an exponential increase in production and sales year after year, the Rioja Certified Denomination of Origin, the great wine reference of Spain, last year it produced 343 million bottles, triple that of its immediate follower, Rueda wine adds a gray five years, which began with the frosts of 2017, continued with the puncture caused by the Covid pandemic, which drastically reduced consumption as the hospitality industry was closed, continued with the fluctuations of the British market due to Brexit , a third of what the DOC exports went to the United Kingdom ,and ended with the rise in production costs, boosted by the war in Ukraine, and the drought. The situation has caused the 570 wineries included in the DOC, spread across three autonomous communities of Navarra, La Rioja and the Basque Country (Álava) ,to have a surplus that they have been carrying for several years and which is difficult to eliminate. Increasing the problem, the marketing of wine with the Rioja denomination has failed. In 2022, sales experienced a decrease of 1.2% compared to the previous year, according to the balance carried out by the Regulatory Council. 251 million liters were sold with a slight recovery (+0.16%) in sales in the Spanish market, which did not mitigate the 3.1% drop in exports (the British market, the main market, fell 12% ).

After years of Spanish leadership, Italy has managed to surpass Spain and is positioned as the world’s leading wine exporter in terms of volume, according to the latest data collected by international customs and analyzed by the OEMV (.Observatorio Español del Mercado del Vino ) In the year-on-year analysis as of June of this year, Italy exported a total of 2,175 million liters, slightly exceeding the 2,106.7 million liters exported by Spain. The figures reveal that, despite occupying first place, Italy has seen a 2% reduction in the volume of its exports compared to the same period last year. Spain, for its part, has experienced a steeper drop of 5.6%. France, which occupies third position in terms of export volume, has suffered a decline similar to that of Spain, with an export of 1,357.9 million liters. However, when it comes to the value of exports, which really matters, France remains the undisputed leader. French turnover has increased by 6.2%, reaching 12,483.1 million euros. This increase places France well ahead of Italy, which registered 7,856.4 million euros (+3.4%) and Spain, with 3,034.1 million euros (+0.9%).Markets such as Canada, Germany , China, Switzerland and Hong Kong have reduced their purchases of Spanish wine in value terms. However, it is worth highlighting the increase in imports by Russia, which added 12.5 million liters to its demand for Spanish non-sparkling bottled wine, while China reduced its purchases by 21.8 million liters. The United Kingdom remains the main destination for Spanish bottled wines, although it also shows a 10% decrease in volume. However, the value of these imports has increased by 17%, indicating a substantial increase in the average price, which now reaches 3.43 euros per liter. In terms of value, the United States occupies second position for Spanish packaged wines, with a turnover of 274.9 million euros, which represents an increase of 33.8 million. Germany remains in third place, despite a 5% drop in value.

That a Gran Reserva must meet minimum aging times in a barrel of a certain volume and the same amount of aging in the bottle is something that we have incorporated into our, more or less, extensive knowledge of wine. Now, determining what aspects are characteristic of the grape and subsequent wine so that it is able to pass such a test of patience and improve during that period of time is a matter that, a priori, is not so obvious. The aging times of these wines serve to improve what is already good in the vineyard and winery. It does not make sense for the same wine to be destined for Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva. The qualities of the wines for each must be different. It is therefore in the vineyard where it makes sense that the true vocation of a Gran Reserva begins, and not in the minimum aging times described in the standard. Once again, the winery and all its craftsmanship at the service of the vineyard. The first thing we have to be clear about is that for a wine to be classified as Gran Reserva, it must not only spend a certain amount of aging time in oak barrels, but it must also be refined in the bottle. The regulations regarding designations of origin such as Calificado de Rioja or Ribera del Duero conclude that the total aging time for a red wine must be at least 60 months (five years), of which a minimum of 24 months They must mature in oak barrels and the rest in the bottle. After the alcoholic and malolactic fermentation of the wine, it is transferred to oak barrels where the first aging phase begins. To understand what happens during this time, it is essential to take into account the porous nature of the wood. Thanks to this condition, the wine will be in minimal contact with oxygen from the environment, which will shape the astringent character of the tannin, thus favoring a friendlier texture, as well as color stabilization. Furthermore, the wood itself, due to the toasting process that is applied during the construction of the barrel, will give off aromas to the wine that will remind us of smoked, spicy, roasted… Lastly, during this resting time, they will precipitate naturally the lees and other impurities at the bottom of the barrel, which can later be eliminated after transferring to another barrel. The fundamental difference between aging in barrels and in bottles is oxygen. While in the first there is constant microoxygenation, during bottle aging, the practically total absence of oxygen is what marks this second phase. In it, it is essential that the bottle is lying flat and the cork is of good quality, since it is what guarantees the almost total tightness of the container.

Added to the increase in inflation ,and with it, the price of inputs such as electricity, oil and elements provided by the auxiliary industry is the decrease in the general consumption of wine in the world, also in Spain. A persistent drought that, by the way, also affects other parts of the world such as Spain. the problem with the most difficult solution, more than anything because it is a consequence of an overwhelming climate change that no longer seems reversible. Mainly because none of the international summits that have been held to date have reached any firm agreement. In Spain, some wineries are already doing it, not enough, displacing or recovering in this task the tradition of planting their vineyards at higher altitudes, such as those of the Catalan Pyrenees, the Sierra de Gredos, or the Central System, to name only some examples; or recovering native grape varieties that have in many cases demonstrated greater resilience to lack of water. It is paradoxical that a sector like wine, champion of sustainability, is one of the most affected by climate change. Unfortunately, their unquestionable efforts alone are not enough.

To start 2024 ,let me give some excellent Spanish wine known and tasted by me over the years including today, These are for all tastes and pockets from 11€ to 200€, You won’t go wrong with any of them, Enjoy them as I.

Altos de Tamarón Reserva The Reserva from Altos de Tamarón does not disappoint its public thanks to its combined aging of two years in French and American barrels. A powerful red that has an aromatic repertoire characteristic of its style and production, with black fruit and toast. Vintage: 2018 – Denomination: Ribera del Duero – Variety: Tempranillo Bodega Pagos del Rey – Valdepeñas (Ciudad Real), Webpage : https://www.pagosdelrey.com/

CM Prestigio Made by Carlos Moro with tempranillo from vineyards located at the foot of Mount Toloño. Selection of vineyards and careful preparation to obtain the balance and elegance that gives it its name. Complex, persistent, ripe black fruit and sweet spices persist in a long finish. Vintage: 2019 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo Bodega M de Matarromera – San Vicente de la Sonsierra (La Rioja), Webpage : https://bodegacmdematarromera.es/

Castillo Ygay El Pago La Plana, located in the highest part of Finca Ygay, is the one that provides the grapes with which this icon-turned-wine is made. The two varieties are aged separately for 28 months to create a wine with as many layers and nuances as there are loyal fans. Vintage: 2018 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo and Mazuelo – Bodega Marqués de Murrieta – Logroño (La Rioja), Webpage: https://marquesdemurrieta.com/

Borsao Berola, Borsao masterfully produces this ‘coupage’ of Grenache and Syrah in which each variety contributes its positive part. Notes of black fruit and cassis with freshness and lightness. The aging for 14 months in French and American barrels gives it good structure and a spicy finish. Vintage: 2019 – Denomination: Campo de Borja – Variety: Garnacha and syrah – Bodegas Borsao – Borja (Zaragoza), Webpage: https://bodegasborsao.com/es/

Beronia Reserva 93 Classic Riojan blend of grapes to which the Beronia technical team gives a ‘twist’ of modernity, seeking a fresh fruit that manifests itself in notes of wild berries, along with sweet spices, cinnamon, vanilla. With a silky mouthfeel and volume, classic and serene. Vintage: 2019 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo and Graciano – Bodegas Beronia – Ollauri (La Rioja), Webpage: https://www.beronia.com/

Barón de Chirel, a canonical red wine made only in exceptional vintages, has an elegant complexity that unfolds fruity and spicy aromas, notes of cocoa, graphite and licorice. A wine that since 1986 has written a part of the wine history of our country. Vintage: 2018 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo and others – Marqués de Riscal Winery – Elciego (Álava), Webpage: https://www.marquesderiscal.com/

Marqués de Riscal Reserva, Perfectly combines volume with finesse and fluidity. A vintage with great aging and aging potential. Notes of black fruit, licorice, and the two years of American oak barrels are perfectly integrated into a seductive whole. Impossible to give more for less. Vintage: 2018 Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, Graciano – Bodega Marqués de Riscal – Elciego (Álava) Webpage: https://www.marquesderiscal.com/

Barón de Ley Reserva, The Barón de Ley Reserva is a great example of how to maintain the essence without having to give up finesse and elegance. An accessible and direct red, with aromas of red fruit, structure and power. It is impossible to give more for less, for all audiences and occasions. Vintage: 2019 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, Graciano and Maturana – Barón de Ley Winery. Mendavia (Navarra), Webpage: https://www.barondeley.com/

Arzuaga Reserva, From the oldest vines on his La Planta estate, with traditional and sustainable cultivation, this elegant wine with body and depth is made. Garnished to perfection with aromas of ripe black fruit and sweet spices. Long, evocative finish, a canonical Reserva. It does not leave you indifferent. Vintage: 2020 – Denomination: Ribera del Duero – Variety: Tinto Fino, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – Bodega Arzuaga – Quintanilla de Onísimo (Valladolid), Webpage: https://arzuaganavarro.com/

Enate Reserva, now a classic and one of the reds to look at when talking about cabernet from Somontano. With nerve and power, it is balsamic, with touches of vanilla and other sweet spices that accompany very ripe fruit. Structured and powerful. Vintage: 2017 – Denomination: Somontano – Variety: Cabernet sauvignon – Bodega Enate – Salas (Huesca), Webpage: https://www.enate.es/

Enate Chardonnay fermented in barrels Enate’s firm commitment to international varieties and classic wines is reflected in this white. It seduces thanks to its peach notes, well accompanied by vanilla and pastries. An infallible and well-resolved wine that has a loyal following vintage after vintage. Vintage: 2022 – Denomination: Somontano – Variety: Chardonnay – Bodega Enate – Salas Bajas (Huesca), Webpage: https://www.enate.es/tienda/chardonnay-fermentado-en-barrica/

Gran Reserva 904 Selección Especial, Elegance in its purest form for this reference red among the wineries of the Barrio de la Estación. Classicism with a twist of modernity that appeals to expert and amateur drinkers. Ripe, spicy, slow to drink, it is in a full moment but with a lot of life ahead of it. Vintage: 2015 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo and Graciano – Bodega La Rioja Alta S. L. – Haro (La Rioja) Webpage: https://riojalta.com/

Imperial Gran Reserva 2017, An essential. It has been produced only in exceptional vintages for more than a century. In the new vintage he shows his full potential, combining his classic cut and style with great freshness and juiciness. Notes of ripe black fruit coexist with leather and toast in this canonical red wine. Vintage: 2017 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo Winery – CVNEValdepeñas (Ciudad Real) – Haro (La Rioja), Webpage: https://cvne.com/

LAN a Mano, Represents wine conceived as a work of goldsmithing. Each bunch is carefully selected from Pago El Rincón and reviewed in the winery grain by grain manually. Great concentration, directness and structure, it has notes of blue fruit and black pepper. Vintage: 2020 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo – Bodegas LAN – Fuenmayor (La Rioja) Webpage: https://bodegaslan.com/

Marqués de Cáceres Generación MC, In this wine, Marqués de Cáceres brilliantly combines tradition and modernity. Made from old, low-yielding vines, it has structure and longevity, as well as freshness and fruit expression. It presents notes of black fruit and cocoa, it is complex and with a long finish. Vintage: 2021 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo – Bodega Marqués de Cáceres – Cenicero (La Rioja), Webpage: https://www.marquesdecaceres.com/

Marqués de Murrieta, María Vargas, the technical director of Marqués de Murrieta, leaves her mark on this red wine in a vintage that stands out for its exceptional maturity and impeccable texture. A perfect combination of classicism and modernity, the fruit takes center stage without losing its great structure. Vintage: 2019 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo, Garnacha – Bodega Marqués de Murrieta – Logroño (La Rioja), Webpage: https://marquesdemurrieta.com/

Marqués de Vargas Gran Reserva, ‘Coupage’ of Tempranillo, Grenache and Mazuelo from the oldest plots of the estate, is aged for two years in French oak barrels and three in the bottle. Expressive and aromatic, the fruit is the protagonist of a complex nose in a wine with a great structure that is enjoyed from the first sip. Vintage: 2016 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, garnacha, mazuelo – Bodegas Marqués de Vargas – Logroño (La Rioja), webpage: https://www.marquesdevargas.com/es/

Monte Real Cuvée, Adaptation to the new times of an emblematic winery, this cuvée highlights the fruit over the aging in barrels. Aromas of forest fruits (blackberries, blueberries) and juicy, fruity texture are combined with an aging that dances to the sound and elegantly accompanies the whole. Vintage: 2021 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, Graciano – Bodegas Riojanas – Cenicero (La Rioja), Webpage: https://www.bodegasriojanas.com/

Viña Albina Gran Reserva, Canonical elaboration based on Tempranillo, this Rioja classic never disappoints its followers. It remains a minimum of two years in the barrel and then another two years in the bottle before going on the market. Spicy, ripe, with floral notes, it is intense and powerful. Vintage: 2017 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, Mazuelo and Graciano – Bodegas Riojanas – Cenicero (La Rioja), Webpage: https://www.bodegasriojanas.com/bodegas/bodegas-riojanas/

Montecillo Gran Reserva, Classic in style, is perfect for beginners in the great Riojan reserves for its canonicity and its range of aromas where there are black fruit, spices, roasted, smoked and balsamic. The palate also entertains with a round and elegant texture, it is silky and appetizing with every sip. Vintage: 2015 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, Graciano – Bodegas Montecillo – Navarrete (La Rioja), Webpage: https://www.bodegasmontecillo.com/

Muga, Muga’s flagship has never looked better, in this vintage it is direct and accessible from the first sip. A wine that demonstrates the great work of the winery, both with aging and in the vineyard. Floral nose, elegance, a wine to add followers to this wonderful world. Vintage: 2020 – Denomination: DOCa Rioja – Variety: Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo and Graciano – Bodega Muga – Haro (La Rioja), Webpage: https://www.bodegasmuga.com/

Gran Coronas, This classic reserve demonstrates the great team that Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo form. Aging for one year in barrels to round out the whole, in which the aromas of red fruit, licorice and black pepper stand out. It is long and deep, a wine that does not disappoint. Vintage: 2019 – Denomination: DO Penedès – Variety: Cabernet sauvignon, tempranillo – Familia Torres Winery – Pachs del Penadés (Barcelona), Webpage: https://www.torres.es/

There you go folks, another wonderful post on my dear Spanish wines, Hoping for a long lasting memories of my dear Spain and its wine news, Again,hope you enjoy the series of wines news of Spain  as I.

And remember, happy travels, good health,and many cheers to all !!!

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