Archive for March 30th, 2023

March 30, 2023

My last trip where all begun ,Cuba !

I was asked to go to Cuba on a business trip for my company, and needed to go, I have seen it all, and not really wanted to go but business first as they say, I took advantage with my assigned driver to see the family still there , and by now the vast majority out of the country finally as told them many times, I went around with nostalgia and sadness to see what has remain. It all began there for me many many years ago. I left it in 1971, and hardly any sight pictures, the current pics in this post are from this last trip in 2012. You can see my many posts on Cuba in my blog for the real picture,,,Hope you enjoy the post as I,

I took a long flight it seems endless from home in my beautiful Morbihan 56 , went by car to Nantes airport;following the road N165 all the way to exit D201 Nantes Atlantique signs about 1h30 minutes. Then took a regional Air France flight to Amsterdam, Schiphol airport, which as today’s travel goes make you go north and then south ! I change there to KLM for the flight to La Habana about 10 hours !!! and finally arrive in Havana, very tired !

I stayed at a Casa Particular as was assigned this by the ongoings of local politics ,house in the new district of Playa,(old Miramar) no fancy hotels for me, My other collegues did stayed in the Mélia Habana Hotel,the new aparthaid ! Stories about Cuba abound from all periods; blaming each other, but no doubt the previous pre 1959 regime was better for the mayority. Proof over 2 millions have left already and several millions waiting for the opportunity while been politically correct.

Havana rogelio casa side back apr12

havana Rogelio casa particular dining room Feb12

We had not much time to see the sights ,so I took a ride by car on the Malecon, went over to the old Church of San Francisco de Asisi, the Morro , Fuerza ,and Cabanas castles (see post). Lots old history ,and sad stories of my Cuba.

havana malecon melia et riviera hotels FEb12

We had business lunch at Restaurant 1830 at Calle Calzada esq. a 20, Vedado. This was a branch of La Zaragozana that was founded, in 1830 ! It is now considered one of the best there , There was a special treat at a casa paladar on a fifth floor of a building, but could not remember the name as it was at night and friends rode me there, we had asked for lobsters supreme but not available even if was on the menu , realities of life there; at least it had a nice view of the city.  The highlight was at El Palenque, near pabexpo Cuba, and serving the Convention palace wonderful typical Cuban place and food, very nice lechon or pork with yucca,moro (blackened rice), and the local Cristal beer, It is by now a local institution, stands out as an unpretentious and authentic eating spot that attracts a large number of Cuban families and foreigners. It can be crowded and lively, but it is a great way to feel Havana at Calle 17 & Calle 190 , now Playa  For a nostalgic trip we passed by El Potin resto, (see post) my dear late Mom Gladys used to take me here as a little boy, just a sandwich and light platters place and ice cream,juice and soda drinks, still there!!! and it looks nice after all ! Inspired by French immigrants ! at Línea corner of Paseo, Vedado neighborhood of La Habana.

havana El Palenque resto playa Feb12

The next day I asked my assigned driver to take me to my native town of Punta Brava, (see post) just in the city of La Habana, visiting family aunt and cousins (which by now all left Cuba ) , I ate at a typical Cuban casa paladar in pesos nacionales, (local currency) a dish of roast pork,moros black beans,yucca,tostones in garlic sauce, salad of tomatos and lettuce, plus coffee and four beers for two persons at about 260 Cuban Pesos Nacionales. Just in Calzada (main street Avenida 51) before turning left to Guatao, on the old Carretera Central.

Punta Brava calzada to santa fe Feb12

I went further inland to visit another aunt and cousin at Cayo La Rosa, (these still there) off Bauta, this was a huge textile plant (Ariguanabo) of 5000 workers done by Mr Hedges an American from Tennessee in the 1950’s and now in ruins. The village have not change much, and took a ride with my cousin in an electric moto on the town, crazy,  but a great and cheap means of transportation there now.  And proud of myself was able to take my local driver there as he did not know how, and I did it with so many years out just on good memory lol! He was impressed !

Cayo calle 11 apr12

Of course in each visit I ate with the family and reminiscent of the old days, telling me what a nice guy I was !!!  Finally, it was time to come back again, and took my flight from La Habana Jose Marti International airport, very easily, this time in route to Paris CDG on Air France. The plane was full and cheapy company had me on economy class! But I was bump up to Business Class , by asking and it shows the difference, very nice flight of 9 hours to Paris CDG. There change again on AF to Nantes, and took my car from the airport parking for the trip home after paying 54 euros of parking fees. Cheaper than renting a car lol!

Roissy CDG T2 Pipo going to Miami aug12

I was hoping not to be the last trip to Cuba, but still that was my last probably, and no plans to be back ; time is ticking and hardly any family there, one aunt and one cousin. Even in the difficulties of that system was the same warm welcome by the family and the faces of the buildings even if change were still recognisable, and I look forward to the future when all can have a pleasant place to visit with family and no dictatorship mistreatments and abuses. It is time to put more emphasis or at least equal treatment to the holocaust and the gulag.

There you go folks, another nostalgic spot in my life and happy to be able to share it with the world. Havana goes deep with me, even if now is a distant star flicking for survival, I believe you should know these places and eventually visit in better freer times , Again, hope you enjoy the post on my last trip where it all begun ,Cuba as I

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!

March 30, 2023

The Plaza Vieja of Havana !!!

I was looking again at my blog and realise have wonderful old pictures on sites not really develop and they should stand alone, I went into my Havana and found me pictures from my last trip there in 2012 that needed to have a post of their own, Family memories flashing ; here is my new take on the Plaza Vieja or old square of Havana ! Hope you enjoy the post as I.

The Plaza Vieja limits with the neighborhoods to the north with Cathedral, to the west with the Prado , to the south with Belén and to the east with the Havana Bay. The area of the square is delimited by the streets Muralla, Mercaderes, Teniente Rey and San Ignacio. The square represented the first planned attempt at expansion of the city. It constituted an area used for different modalities, as a residential, commercial and recreational area, without having religious or political-military constructions.

havana Plaza Vieja walking Feb12

The square was called Plaza Nueva. It emerged as an open space in 1559, after the Plaza de Armas and San Francisco. In colonial times it was a residential neighborhood of the Creole plutocracy. Later, it was used as an open-air market known as Reina Cristina.(1835), Nowadays, the Plaza Vieja is dotted with restaurants, cafes, bars and beer gardens, even if sometimes the menu do not have all the dishes available..

The Plaza Vieja or old square was done in 1559 as Plaza Nueva,,, as already two squares in the City Plaza de Armas and Plaza San Francisco, It was surrounded by beautiful homes of the colonial times, and was an open air market known as Reina Cristina (queen Cristina), Over the past 150 years, Plaza Vieja has played host to an open-air food market, a car park (1952), and an amphitheatre. It was the site of executions, processions, bullfights, and festivals,  all witnessed by Havana’s wealthiest citizens, who looked on from their balconies. In the 18C, the Plaza Nueva was transformed into a market place. And in 1814, with the emergence of the market at the Plaza del Cristo, it was renamed to Plaza Real, Plaza Mayor, Plaza Fernando VII, Parque Juan Bruno Zayas and Parque Julián Grimau, until it finally received the name of Plaza Vieja. During the 17C to the early 20C, the area was developed with residential, commercial and recreational buildings that fortunately maintained coherence, including the majestic and popular Palacio de los Condes de Jaruco  (1738) or palace of the counts of jaruco and the first exclusive recreational society in HavanaSociedad Filarmónica, (1824) or philarmonique society housed in a residence at Calle San Ignacio no, 352-354. In this society, dances were organized in which the richest families in Havana participated. However, the building was built between 1796 and 1802.

havana Plaza Vieja resto Feb12

In the 18C, the pace of construction quickly transformed the square and between 1729 and 1756 nine portals were built, accompanying the consolidation and maturity of a type of manor house equipped with porticos, hallways, mezzanines, high rooms covered with Mudejar ceilings, wide stairs , inner courtyards with galleries. The example that survives most fully today is the old Palace of the Counts of Jaruco, built on one of the corners between 1733 and 1738, where the Cuban storyteller Mercedes Santa Cruz y Montalvo, known as the Countess of Merlin, was born.

The first buildings to be restored were the residence of the Counts of Jaruco, (see above) which currently houses the Cultural Property Fund, the Mercaderes building at no. 307, where the National Photo Library is located today, and the Franchi Alfaro house, no 315-317 was until the 19C on the street level the Café-Restaurante El Escorial, which opened in 1913. Later , it was converted into a multi-family dwelling. Even if the street level remained a commercial spot, Subsequently, the house at San Ignacio no 364, residence of the Count of Lombillo, and that of the Cárdenas sisters, headquarters of the Center for the Development of Visual Arts, were restored. The old San Ángel school, which today houses a real estate agency, the Gómez Vila building and the Ángela Landa primary school have also been restored.

However, restoration is gradually re-establishing Plaza Vieja’s original atmosphere; the Carrara showpiece fountain at the center of the square is a replica of the original 18C one by Italian sculptor Giorgio Massari that was destroyed by the construction of the car park; and many of the 18C residences around the square are now restored with housing on the top floors and commercial establishments, including several small museums and art/photo galleries, on the ground floor. This was renovated by a grant from Unesco as recently as 2011 ,before I was there,and later years,

Some current tourist sites which tells of today, not the same info as above that comes from my library of the historical stories of these places.

The official today Cuba tourist board on Havana :https://www.cuba.travel/en/destinations/havana-cuba

The official today Infotur tourist guide to Cuba on Havana https://infotur.cu/en/destinos/havana

There you go folks, another nostalgic spot in my life and happy to be able to share it with the world. Havana goes deep with me, even if now is a distant star flicking for survival, I believe you should know these places and eventually visit in better freer times , Again, hope you enjoy the post on the Plaza Vieja of Havana or La Habana as I

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!

March 30, 2023

The Zanja Real of Havana !!!

I was looking again at my blog and realise have wonderful old pictures on sites not really develop and they should stand alone, I went into my Havana and found me pictures from my last trip there in 2012 that needed to have a post of their own, Family memories flashing ; here is my new take on Zanja Real or royal ditch (aqueduct)  of Havana ! Hope you enjoy the post as I.

The Zanja Real was the first aqueduct built in Cuba began construction in 1565 and finished in 1592. This canal ensured the water supply of Havana for almost two and a half centuries (1592-1835). It brought the waters of the Chorrera River , today Almendares to Plaza de la Ciénaga, now Plaza de la Catedral ,It was a sort of wide ditch that usually carried non-potable water during the rainy season and would have to be constantly repaired , After 1835 they built the Fernando VII aqueduct, and then the Albear aqueduct.

havana Zanja Real Feb12

The Zanja Real was a channel dug into the ground through a winding path of almost 13 km from the Almendares River. The sources that supplied the water from the Zanja Real were four at the beginning of the 17C ; the one located in front of the Casas del Cabildo (the later Plaza de San Francisco), the one located in the surroundings of El Molinillo de San Pedro, from where it extends the current Calle Luz and a third in Callejón del Chorro. All three were built in the 1590s. The fourth was built in the 17C in Plaza Nueva (now Plaza Vieja). In 1634 a farm was built, next to the Foundry, where La Maestranza was later built (royal horse bastion 1709 ,today park and hotel).

The first section of the Zanja Real that was buried was that of Calle Amargura, which was provided with a cistern located on the outskirts of Havana, behind the Convent of San Agustín. In 1606 it was ordered to bury the section of the Zanja as it passed through the streets of San Ignacio and Teniente Rey, and it was supplied by the cistern located in the Plaza Nueva, now Plaza Vieja. The first public fountain in Havana was inaugurated when the Marquis de Casa Torre was Captain General, in 1708. The humble fountain in Plaza Nueva was replaced by a more monumental one in 1836, which served as inspiration for the current one, in Plaza Vieja. The fountain in the Plaza de San Francisco was inaugurated in 1714, and was erected in front of the Casas del Cabildo; a later and more ostentatious fountain was built from 1746 to 1754., These first three related fountains would be followed between 1740 and 1755 by the fountain in the square of the Convent of the Order of Our Lady of Belen ,and the fountain in the courtyard of the Convent of Santa Clara de Asís in 1752.

Later, by royal decree, the works of the Ferdinand VII Aqueduct were approved, which started from the Almendares River, through the Ciénaga, the Cerro and the Calzada de Jesús del Monte, to the Puerta de Tierra, in Monserrate and Muralla streets, and from there to the intramural site outside the City walls. Exactly, three centuries after the Zanja Real, in 1893 the Albear Aqueduct was put into operation, which currently supplies some of the water that supplies Havana, and La Zanja Real was definitively abandoned. The excavations of the Zanja Real or royal sewers now open and shown above ground to tourists. 

Some post for information on the current sites but my notes are from my library of different outlook , more the true history of my  Havana.

The official today Cuba tourist board on Havana : https://www.cuba.travel/en/destinations/havana-cuba

The official today Infotur tourist guide to Cuba on Havanahttps://infotur.cu/en/destinos/havana

There you go folks, another nostalgic spot in my life and happy to be able to share it with the world. Havana goes deep with me, even if now is a distant star flicking for survival, I believe you should know these places and eventually visit in better freer times , Again, hope you enjoy the post on the Zanja Real of Havana or La Habana as I

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!

%d bloggers like this: