Archive for July 7th, 2022

July 7, 2022

Lannion in the north !

I went up north to the Côtes d’Armor dept 22 and the pretty city of Lannion. Of course in my lovely Bretagne. The origin of the name Lannion comes from “Lann”, which designates a religious establishment created by the Bretons of the High Middle Ages. I like to update this older post on an unique town ; hope you enjoy it as I, and see my other posts on Lannion. This one was sort of an introduction.

The city of Lannion is served by a four-lane road connecting it to Guingamp on the N12 (Paris-Brest). There is a train station but never taken and do not know anyone who has in my area.. Lannion is located 35 km from Guingamp; 84 km from Brest; 166 km from Rennes; and 515 km from Paris. It is 133 km from my home !

Lannion is a bridge town on the Léguer river. The proximity to the mouth of the Léguer makes the river level in the city center different from several meters depending on the tides. This feature allowed the establishment of a forjd in the most remote times at the level of the bridge of Kermaria, point where the influence of the tides stops as you can see near the rue Saint-Christophe-le-Passer. A dam allows to hold the water brought in by the rising tide and to release it in an artificial path at a descending tide.

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Things to see in Lannion.

The Church of Saint-Jean-du-Baly, with its tower of 1519 and the vault of its nave restored in 2003 is one of the highlights of visiting this town in my opinion but there is more.  

The Chapel of Collège Saint-Joseph, built from 1935 to 1938 . in the filiation of the Seiz Breur. The Church of Brélévenez, and its staircase of 142 steps that leads to the bottom of the city. The other Churches: Sainte Marguerite in Buhulien, Saint Ivy in Loguivy-lès-Lannion, Saint Pierre in Servel. Also, the Saint Roch Chapel, 15-16C. The Ursuline Convent. The monastery of Sainte-Anne transformed partially fin 2006 into a media library, the several half-timbered houses.

The Château du Cruguil, 15C you can see it in Summers. This former residence of the family of Lannion was transformed into a farmhouse from the 17C. In the 19C, the castle passed through the marriage of the last of Lannion to the family of Mac-Mahon, who transmitted it at the end of the 19C to the Earl of Lur-Saluces whose daughter married Baron Édouard Hainguerlot, former mayor of Brélevenez. It has been in this family since.

The Château de Kerivon D65  road in private hands but to look on the outside, the Manoir de Langonaval, 15C, you can visit in Summers. Le Manoir de Kerprigent, exterior visitable by appointment.  Lannion also has two superb beaches to Beg Léguer and two mooring sites offering 176 boat places.

The  Maison du Chapelier or hatters 16-17C, located at No. 29, Place Général Leclerc is something to stop and closer look. This house, which for a long time was millinery, replaces a house destroyed during the wars of the League. It was rebuilt in 1646. Antother one located at No. 31,  contains caryatids carved in the style of Henri IV and replaces an old house mentioned by an act dated 02 June 1444 in the renter of the factory of Saint Jean du Baly!

Near Lannion, the Tumulus de la Motta contains precious metal jewelry. The menhir of the Crec’h in Servel and that of Saint-Patrice, also called the Menhir of Righteousness (by the rue des Fréres Lagadec, included in a wall), are in fact two Gallic stelae. The second was Christianized.

The first dam used as a fish trap built in Servel, 190 meters long, formed of piles connected by wooden strips, with triangular platforms anchoring the structure in the sand and also serving as breakwaters, was built between 613 and 615 . These dates were found thanks to the dating of the oak wood  used for its construction in the estuary of the Léguer river. At a descending tide, the fish were trapped in the reservoir.  Lannion is involved, during the Hundred Years War and the war of the Succession of Brittany.

The city of Lannion on culture/heritagehttps://www.lannion.bzh/vie-culturelle

The Granite Coast of Brittany tourist office on Lannionhttps://www.bretagne-cotedegranitrose.com/villes-de-la-cote-de-granit-rose/lannion/

The Bretagne region tourist board on Lannion: https://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/pink-granite-coast-morlaix-bay/lannion/

There you go folks, hope it helps you enjoy Lannion, a nice and pretty coastal town. Great for a weekend getaway and we are always looking for that !!

And remember, happy travels , good health, and many cheers to all !!!

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July 7, 2022

The Hôtel de Francheville or Myner of Vannes !!

And I take you to wonderful beautiful Vannes again, Let me show one off the beaten path building in off the beaten path Vannes ! Let me update this older post for you and me as usually do not update nearby visits but again Vannes is unique for us. I like to tell you more about the Hôtel de Franchevill or Myner of Vannes !!

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With so much to see it becomes almost impossible to see it all in one visit to any place, Even, if lived only 30 minutes by car from Vannes, and my capital city ! However as an amateur of history and architecture I do notice! And living nearby the beautiful medieval intact city of Vannes (no fires, floodings, bombings here!) gives me a great advantage. One of the building I go by every week and my favorite old town shopping area and the site of the famous Vannes market is one with a bit of a confused history. For years, it was call Hotel de Francheville until recent studies have shown it should be Hotel Myner, never mind , the archeologist, the locals still refer to it as Francheville!  The Hotel Mynier , formerly  Hotel de Francheville from the 17C is a private hotel located in Vannes. It makes the corner of the place des Lices and the place du Poids Public. Right in the middle of market on Wed and Sat.

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A bit of history I like

It was previously considered to have been built for the family of Francheville, who gave it their name for many years. However, recent finding has shown that the one everyone calls the Hotel Francheville should be called the Hotel Mynier. No, the most beautiful house of the place des Lices was not the home of Claude de Francheville,  seneschal (royal officer in charge of justice) of Vannes. The illustrious family also counts in the 17C, the blessed Catherine de Francheville, the origin of the construction of the Chapel of Saint-Yves (by the College(middle school) Jules Simon) and the Foundation of the Order of the Sisters of the Retreat. It was built in tufa and granite in the second half of the 17C this building owes its name to Julien Mynier a merchant. It dates back to the time when the Parliament of Brittany was exiled to Vannes, between 1675 and 1689 and is located on the site of an older building, probably with wood, of which some elements subsist such as on the ground floor (1st US), wall gutter water with an gavel arch bay on the ground floor and a chimney on the 1st floor (2nd US).

Part of the current location that belongs according to the archives before 1662 to the Guydo families and at best was occupied in the middle ages by the House of Robert de Callac, Maître d’hôtel de la Duchesse of Brittany. The building is then composed of a large house in a wooden panel overlooking the Place du Poids Public opposite the mill of the so-called Lices with courtyard, gallery, and stable.The acquisition of the ensemble in 1665 by Julien Mynier, merchant, did two works campaigns done on the façade place des Lices corresponding in the 17C, while the openings of the façade place du Poids Public are taken up at the beginning of the 18C.

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The Hôtel Francheville or Myner was recently renovated to sparkling new façade. It is in the old town of Vannes with wonderful old squares around it and the spot of the wonderful market days (see posts). We love to walk by here even in non market days! There is a floor display inside the Belle Ïloise store that is on the building, to show the sediment of the old structure protected by historical monuments of France.

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The city of Vannes on the Hôtel de Francheville :https://www.mairie-vannes.fr/index.php/hotel-de-francheville

The Gulf of Morbihan local tourist office on Vanneshttps://www.golfedumorbihan.co.uk/explore/meet-the-exceptionnal/visit-vannes/

There you go go folks, another gem to see and marvel in my pretty Vannes, the Hôtel de Francheville , ooops Hôtel Myner is something to admire for all lovers of architecture and history. Hope you enjoy the post as I,

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!

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July 7, 2022

Wines news of France XXV !!

And the days of Summer are here yeah!! We had mild weather and then heat and now it seems we are heading for more heat as high in my area of 31C, Anyway, always good to bring the best of Wine news of France. First ,thanks to all my readers and/or followers! We have done quite a bit of work around the house, and still some more until September , Oh yeah, the wines of France are just super simply awesome and a great tradition. Often imitated, some time equaled ,but never surpass! Let me give some news shall we; hope you enjoy it as I.

The “Act for Change” Symposium took stock. On June 27, 2022 at the Cité du Vin of Bordeaux, 35 international experts of 17 nationalities met to discuss the future of wines and spirits by 2030. Among the major trends and developments that will mark the next vintages, in particular was a question of new consumption habits, changes in viticultural practices, agroecology and innovative packaging. All to be implemented in the near future because yes, climate change is here and it’s also heating up in the vineyard , Among the solutions mentioned, the emergence of new grape varieties within the appellations, support for the conversion to organic and biodynamic areas or the adaptation of practices to the vine such as agroecology. Today, many estates are rehabilitating polyculture or replanting trees in their vines, a practice that existed a long time ago and which was slowed down from the 19C, with the arrival of monoculture. As for consumption habits, the wine drinkers of tomorrow will have to get used to containers other than glass bottles, the production of which is responsible for nearly 40% of the sector’s CO2 emissions. Many initiatives are emerging on this subject,like using paper bottle, a packaging that emits six times less CO2 than a glass bottle. The climate issue is a challenge that must therefore be taken up collectively, relying on an entire community to build the wines of tomorrow. Changes and still not sure if better,,,,,time is of the essence, More info webpage : https://symposium-actforchange.vinexposium-connect.com/

Since 2006, the Hellfest, the most famous extreme music festival, has established a partnership with the Muscadet winegrowers. An original but effective way to promote this wine made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape. What a funny idea, so at all rock festivals, beer reigns supreme! But now, the Hellfest is not a festival like the others. It is located in Clisson, in the heart of the Muscadet appellation. The site is also completely surrounded by vineyards. The site occupies 120 hectares: 38 for the concert area, 28 for the campsites and 55 for the car park. A large part of these grounds are rented for the year, others for the duration of the festival. Sometimes a few vines had to be uprooted, but the festival paid for the cost of replanting on other plots. The bar is now 300 m2 , located at the end of a wooded area where festival-goers come to seek a little shade and freshness, It is accessed by passing under the monumental gate of the Kingdom of Muscadet. On site, there is of course a cuvée of Muscadet, produced by the six local winegrowers, dashing, fresh and thirst-quenching, as well as a red Gamay and a rosé. It’s the rock festival where you drink the most wine ! 2022 is history but stay tune for 2023 ! Webpage : https://www.hellfest.fr/

And I had the priviledge to taste this awesome Champagne Krug,,, happy to tell::) At the head of Krug since April 2022, Manuel Reman has challenges but with a great team, They are in the process of writing a new charter with the winegrower partners who sell them grapes. These are people with whom they have sometimes been in contract for almost a century !! At Krug , they are few hundred, and sometimes micro-plots with about sixty hectares, He says, « We have a big project for the complete renovation of the cellars and the vat rooms ». This will be done after the 2023 harvest or at the beginning of 2024. Moreover, their first market is Japan. It’s a cuisine that goes perfectly well with Krug. In the United States, the place where they would like to develop is New Orleans. There is both all this history and this culture around music, but also a cuisine that is spicy, exotic. Today we have no problem selling the bottles so we finally have the chance to be able to choose where we sell them and we try to sell them to people who understand the Krug philosophy, who enjoy drinking Krug , not the people who drink Krug because they can just afford to drink it. There is a story about their marketing and sales director, met a chef in Los Angeles who is a Krug lover and who offers a glass of Krug to each of his guests in his tasting menu. These are the people they want to help, people who understand Krug. Me too Salut !! webpage : https://www.krug.com/

To celebrate its 250th anniversary, the house of Veuve Clicquot has transformed the most prestigious train into a champagne paradise, the Venice Simplon Orient-Express ! The Dame Clicquot Ponsardin celebrates her 250th birthday and the birthday party is commensurate with her longevity ,On the program, visit the chalk pits with guests from all over the world, and especially from the United States, A must to drink indeed, me too !! webpage : https://www.veuveclicquot.com/fr-int

Definitely, Provence attracts more and more personalities, and not only movie stars. Thus, since the spring of 2020, the Castéja family has set foot in the Coteaux d’Aix. This acquisition, carried out by the holding company of Catherine Castéja (Philippe’s wife) and her three children, enabled him to add a Provençal jewel to his portfolio of personal properties, including the Château Prieuré-Lichine, the Ballande trading houses & Méneret and Sovex GrandsChâteaux. The Château Bas had everything to seduce him/her: a thousand-year-old history, charming buildings and, above all, 300 ha of biodiversity, including 75 ha of vines grown organically since 2010. It is there, on the sunny clay-limestone hillsides, that the grape gains in concentration, largely swept away by the mistral. The Le Temple cuvée testifies to this with a finesse, length in the mouth and balance that sign the emblematic rosé of the property.Yes indeed try it ! webpage: https://www.chateaubas.com/

The Château Climens changes hands ! The vagaries of the weather, the frosts of 2021 and 2017, the hail of 2020 finally got the better of the tenacity of the biodynamist from Barsac and owner of Château Climens, Bérénice Lurton. The latter sold the majority of its shares to the Moitry family (Patrimonia, a group specializing in wealth management), which is their first acquisition in wine, For thirty years at the head of this splendid 31-hectare vineyard. The single tenant acquired by her father Lucien in 1971, Bérénice Lurton has continued to promote the terroir of Climens, considered the counterpart of Château d’Yquem in Barsac, in particular by converting it to biodynamics a dozen years ago. An argument that weighed during the sale as well as the recent creation of Asphodèle, the dry white cuvée from Climens which is already reaping exceptional notes. Changing of the guards always in Bordeaux, webpage : https://www.chateau-climens.fr/

Since today ,Thursday July 7 2022 is an important date for the Saint-Estèphe appellation with the inauguration of the new Château Laffitte Carcasset. The unprecedented choice of using different vats (stainless steel, concrete, frustoconical and inverted frustoconical) makes it possible to vinify to measure, according to the grape varieties, the terroirs, the levels of maturity… They have also developed an automatic temperature control algorithm of fermentation. The 5 guest rooms are already full, to receive customers, wine tourists, journalists, it starts very strong! They already have several weddings for next year to show the property to as many people as possible. The new kid on the block, see it, webpage : https://www.laffittecarcasset.com/

What are the exceptional rosés to taste this year? Well everybody has its list and I have mines too:

Château Minuty Cuvée 281 of 2021 Provence, Côtes de Provence, Elegance remains the pink thread of this wine full of finesse and roundness. On the nose, a few peppery accents highlighting a juicy peach also present on the palate, tonic and saline.

Domaine de l’Île , Porquerolles Rosé 2021, Provence, Côtes de Provence, Under a rose petal color, aromas of pomegranate and cherry parade on the nose before continuing on the palate while tension, saline, with soft notes of raspberry and of pomelo.

Domaines Ott, Clos Mireille Rosé 2021, Provence , Côtes de Provence, Dionysos and Poseidon watch over this Olympian rosé, governed by a beautiful energy on the nose and on the attack, the smoothness taking over on a saline mouth with citrus notes.

From Gaillac to Bordeaux via Beaune, all the regions are getting in tune and offering to discover the history, gestures and products that make their wines special juices. As a couple, with family or with colleagues, discover its wine museums ! Indeed they are precious, here are my favorites,

A stone’s throw from the Eiffel Tower, in the 16éme arrondissement, the Paris Wine Museum offers you a visit to its splendid 15C vaulted cellars. After having been the official cellars of the Dame de Fer restaurant for a long time, they were rehabilitated in 1984 by the Conseil des Echansons. The museum now offers a complete visit that will introduce you to the methods of vinification and conservation of wine and all the objects that are used during the wine aging process. Webpage : https://www.museeduvinparis.com/

It is one of the most beautiful museums in the world, it is both an architectural work and a museum: we are of course talking about the La Cité du Vin of Bordeaux. This building, with a futuristic design, hosts the presentation of what is the pride of the Bordeaux region: wine as art. It is in magnificent spaces and on a multi-sensory path that you will discover how wine is made, from the vine to the bottling. The Bordeaux museum clearly stands out from others on a national and international scale by its intuitiveness and its pedagogy. Panels and information will guide you through the 19 themed rooms. Webpage : https://www.laciteduvin.com/en

Between two visits and tastings at the estate, take the time to visit the Burgundy wine museum in Beaune. The Burgundy museum presents an impressive collection of bottles, jars and other products related to wine. Nestled in the heart of the Hôtel des Ducs de Bourgogne, this museum will delight young and old alike with a very significant outdoor space. After the obligatory review of the stages of wine making, you can let yourself be tempted by the olfactory workshop which will introduce you to the flavors of Burgundy wine. Webpage : https://www.beaune-tourism.com/things-to-do/attractions/musee-du-vin-de-bourgogne-675138

The Gaillac vine and wine museum, It is in a historic building of breathtaking beauty that you will have the opportunity to discover the vine and wine trades in Gaillac, in the Tarn. It was none other than the Benedictine monks of the region who built this abbey in the 10C. Overlooking the Tarn, the vine museum lets you discover the work of the winegrowers and the instruments, sometimes of religious origin, that they used at the time. You will end the visit in style with a tasting of Gaillac wines, to the delight of oenophiles, webpage : http://www.ville-gaillac.fr/culture/infos-pratiques-musee-de-labbaye

My educational section continues, love it, the world of wines !! and France ,of course !!!

They are called Artaban, Floréal, Muscaris, Souvignier gris or Coliris and Selenor, since 2017 disease-resistant grape varieties can be planted and marketed on French territory !! Resulting from crosses between European vines and other species carrying the genes of resistances (American and Asian), these grape varieties come from long and expensive French and foreign study programs. It takes between 12 and 20 years to obtain a new grape variety, from the creation of the variety of the first seeds to its production. In July 2018, the national IGP committee validated the possibility of including these grape varieties in their specifications. And after examination, the INAO therefore gave its agreement for the integration of these new grape varieties in the specifications of 15 IGP’s including the Protected Geographical Identities of Cévennes, Gard, Pays d’Oc, Atlantique or Val de Loire. Concerning the appellations, no AOC has yet started a project of integration in a specification, Out of the 1200 hectares of resistant grape varieties planted in the French vineyard, it is the German grape variety Souvignier gris which is the most represented with 365 hectares cultivated followed by Floréal and Soreli. The new world order to watch carefully….

What are the soft, syrupy, natural sweet wines… When wine gives pride of place to sweet and sweet notes, it can take different forms. Indeed, there are different processes for concentrating sugars in the berries, and therefore in the wine. Because the more sugar there is at the origin, the more so-called residual sugars will remain after the alcoholic fermentation.

Noble rot. This small mushroom, also known as botrytis cinerea, is at the origin, among other things, of the famous Sauternes. It likes humid areas, often populated by streams forming morning mists and sunny afternoons, to develop. Under its action, the grapes wither and dry up. Sugar takes up more and more space, so much so that they are nicknamed “candied grains”. Sémillon, Chenin and Riesling are among his favorite grape varieties.

Raising. No microscopic fungus, but an overripeness of the grapes by natural drying in the air. It can be carried out on feet, if the climate allows it, or on a bed of straw in a warm and ventilated place. The objective is to dehydrate the berries by letting the water evaporate, which has the result of concentrating the sugars and obtaining a higher alcoholic degree. There is also a characteristic acidity, synonymous with a nice freshness during of tasting. Like the botrytised bunches, successive selections are made to gradually harvest the fruits, which are perfectly golden by the sun. A real work of craftsmanship.

Icewines. It is not just the heat that increases the sugar level in the grapes. The cold can be a great ally. A particularity discovered at the end of the 18th century by Austrian and German winegrowers surprised by early frosts. They pick and squeeze frozen berries and realize that the frozen water lets the sugar take over. This strategy has since made its way into several northern vineyards which have made it their specialty.

The mutage. Here, it is not in the vineyard that we play on the sugar level, but during the vinification. It starts in the classic way and sees its fermentation stopped by adding alcohol. It can be a neutral alcohol or a wine brandy, often local. One thinks of Pineau des Charentes, to which Cognac is added, or Floc de Gascogne, which includes Armagnac. All the sugars are thus not transformed into alcohol and remain in large quantities in these so-called mutated wines. This technique is used to deliver natural sweet wines such as Maury or Porto.

Wine bottles are kept lying down. It is a principle of good wine storage: they are stored horizontally. The reason is simple: to avoid wine oxidation. For this, it is important that the cork remains in contact with the wine. The liquid thus moistens the cork and prevents it from drying out, shrinking and then crumbling. The cork would then lose its seal and allow too much air to enter the bottle. This entry of air, called oxidation, results in premature aging and spoilage of the wine. Cork taints spoil wine no matter how the bottles are stored. Sure, but you might be wondering if to avoid cork taint it’s not better to store the bottle upright? It should be noted that the storage position of the bottle has no influence on the corked taste. And again, the reason is simple: if the cork has been attacked by the molecule responsible for cork taint, the wine will be spoiled, regardless of its storage position. Keep bottles lying down: a principle that applies to cork stoppers, Storing bottles in a lying position is valid for bottles closed with a cork stopper. Indeed, the other corks or screw caps do not need to be moistened by the wine to avoid drying out.

You know ,half of French people consider restaurants to be their favorite places to eat. And many people drink wine when they go there! Despite everything, we note a drop in wine consumption, especially in restaurants. And this is due to several factors: First of all, wine is not systematically offered to the consumer, unlike water, even in bottles Also, the main packaging, i.e. A 75 cl bottle, is overtaken by current practices (which rather towards wine by the glass) ,and becomes unable to satisfy the consumer. Finally, the price of wine remains high in catering, in particular because of the coefficients applied by restaurateurs. The quality/price ratio is not always respected, but also the price of the wine is not in harmony with the price of the dishes. If the 75 cl format tends to put off customers, drinking wine by the glass appears to be the solution! This practice also allows you to taste several wines, without having to drink a whole bottle. In addition, the price can be attractive to the consumer. This practice has become so widespread that a recent study showed that two-thirds of customers in cafés, restaurants and hotels preferred wine by the glass rather than by the bottle. This phenomenon is more marked among the younger generations who prefer wine by the glass by 77%, while those over 50 show their attachment to the bottle at 32%. The trend towards local consumption in restaurants should also be noted. Regional wines, from local terroirs are very popular The fashion for afterwork and aperitifs makes it possible to serve wine at the start of the evening. These small orders can be multiplied by the practice of offering wine by the glass. In terms of wine colors, consumption leans more towards white wine and rosé wine, which are more suitable as an aperitif. Red wine, meanwhile, is always very popular! Moreover, despite the “Bordeaux bashing”, this vineyard remains the favorite for no less than half of the French, just like Burgundy, and Champagne! Closely followed by wines from Rhône, Alsace and Languedoc. Of course, we go in bunches so the bottle is always taken, and most is Red, then Rosé, and finally White.

There you go folks, another wine episode of my belle France! The wines of France that is, superbe, sublime, wonderful, gorgeous, enjoy without moderation but accompanying a meal, family table just perfect. See you in the vineyards of France.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!

July 7, 2022

Vannes , its a must to see !!

There are so many places to visit nearby, difficult to pick one, even thus we have some in my grinder for later longer trip, the decision was to go to our capital city of Vannes, in the beautiful Morbihan 56 of our lovely Bretagne and our belle France. I usually do not update posts in my area ,but this is a wonderful exception on a beautiful city that should be seen more, this is Vannes or Gwened in Breton language,

There were the usual errands as well as my boys wanted some japanese BD/mangas thing at Japanim the specialist store in their new store by Monoprix store where we shop too. And of course ,on the way back the groceries at our usual E Leclerc but there were other goodies as well. As you can tell we are busy here lol!

On a Friday night I had a lunch with collegues at a restaurant never been even thus been to the one next door! The experience was very nice and it remained the last time had lunch with the team Finance ; shortly after negotiated my way out pre retirement with my CFO. As it goes, waiting for my collegues to arrive I had my first apéro or before meal drink or after work or happy hours whatever at a friendly bar near the city town hall of Vannes. This turn out to be rather nice as there were visiting Americans on job assignments here so you guess it the conversation turn into current events and sports for a while. The place is nice for this sort of thing a drink snacks and then continue the night; oh yes the place is Café Arthur at Place Maurice Marchais facing the city hall. It is only open since November 2018 but the new owner was very pleasant and I did had my German beer Warsteiner ,not bad. Gladly, we have been back as the place still there ! Webpage : https://www.cafearthur-restaurant.fr/

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From there I joined my collègues at the Le Sous-Sol restaurant on the other side of the square next to the city hall. The restaurant is very innovative in food and name layout as le sous-sol means basement and it is there. We opted for the main table at street level. There were very nouvelle cuisine dishes with codfish, shrimps, and desserts I never had and probably won’t opt for them in the future but for the curious culinary mind it should work. The service was very friendly and even the waiter spoked English! Webpage : https://www.restaurantlesous-sol.com/contact

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By Saturday morning, we were back in Vannes ! We went by an area, that used to come often when my boys were in school, The area is very nice and I usually parked by the Place de la Liberation where there is the bus terminal amongt the ones stopping there is our town bus line 5 coming and going to Vannes that my boys took for school and now for shopping trips on their own. Now at least my older drives a Ford  as well as I Always a Ford !.

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We walk in the area and cannot passed by our wonderful city or town hall building with the impressive horse statue of duke of Brittany John IV (Jean) and the wonderful college Jules Simon (middle school) and its wonderful Chapelle St Yves.(see post).Now totally renovated and full serviceWe then continue down to the Le Port or harbor marina with its wonderful canal of sailing boats that goes all the way out into the Gulf of Morbihan and its 50 islands! Of which about 14 are inhabited ,and then out into the Atlantic ocean!

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We went a bit into the market that still was going on usually until about 13h30 or 1:30 pm. and goes all the way around from place Lucien Laroche to place du poid public to place des lices along the old ramparts of Vannes! and see backside its magnificent Constable tower or Tour du Connetable. (see posts)

And of course we ate, who wouldn’t in this magical place by the harbor marina Le Port is very nice and many places we had eaten here over the last 8 years. We came back to one not been in a while, the L’Atlantique plenty of good sea and land combination and mad crowd to get in, we were lucky without reservation because arrive at exactly 12h midday ;many others were turn away without reservations! Here we had as entrée oysters of course!! a half dozen , and then the main dish was for me the hashis parmontier au canard or sort of a potato purée over a bed of duck meat, and for dessert the dome aux chocolat with crunchy bottom, ice cream and a cupola or dome of dark chocolate! all wash down with a nice red 2016 from our neighbors in the Loire, Domaine Octavie Les Vieux Moines all pinot noir! Nice. Webpage : https://www.atlantique-vannes.fr/

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The city of Vannes on its heritagehttps://www.mairie-vannes.fr/decouvrir-le-patrimoine-vannetais

The Gulf of Morbihan local tourist office on Vanneshttps://www.golfedumorbihan.co.uk/?s=vannes

There you go folks, enjoy Vannes always exciting to see in my Morbihan breton. One of the best off the beaten paths towns of France.  I say, again, hope you enjoy the post as I.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!! 

July 7, 2022

Cathedral Saint Louis of La Rochelle !!

I have passed by this town lots of time on my ways south,  my oldest son got a training as part of his chef studies that happened to be at La Rochelle!  So we headed for La Rochelle and it was a blast, we love it another destination found in our belle France. Like there is no end lol!!!  La Rochelle is in Charente-Maritime dept 17 in the region of Nouvelle Aquitaine and is an ocean harbor. I like to update this older post with new text and links on the wonderful Cathedral Saint Louis of La Rochelle !! Hope you enjoy the post as I.

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The Cathedral Saint Louis of La Rochelle was built from 1742 on an initiative of the Cardinal of Fleury and the Bishop, Augustin Roch de Menou de Charnizay, it remained unfinished for lack of financial means, but was still open to worship in 1784.  The nobles of the area donated land called the Champ de Guillaume de Syré, located between the gate of the Petit-Comte (west entrance of the rue Aufrédy) and the old Port of the castle ( Place de Verdun) to build a Church under the invocation of Saint-Barthelemy.  The church was erected in parish by the Bishop of Saintes, Mgr Ponce de Pons, in 1217.

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Fast forward to 1429, when king Charles VII accepted the title of founder of the chapter here. In 1542, king François I attended Mass in the company of the princes and bishops, before going around the city.  In 1558, David, chaplain of the King and Queen of Navarre visiting La Rochelle, preaches in the pulpit of St. Bartholomew, the first, the dogmas of the Reformation.  In the victory of 1628, king Louis XIII dispossessed the Protestants of the Great Temple. The king vowed to make the defeated city an episcopal seat whose Great Temple was to become the Cathedral. In this expectation, the king confided to the parishioners of St. Bartholomew the guard of the Great Temple which became Saint Barthelemy of the Great Temple. The king’s vow was realized in 1648, when the Pope transferred the episcopal seat of Maillezais to La Rochelle. In 1668, the construction of a new Church is undertaken at the site of  old Church destroyed during the wars of religion, which was completed 10 years later.  In 1678, the first Mass was celebrated in the rebuilt Church .During the French revolution in 1793, the Church Saint-Barthélemy was made into a cereal market . It later became a place for concerts and finally in 1797, it was sold and demolished.

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The first Cathedral was the Church of Saint-Barthelemy-du-Grand-Temple. This building is the former Great Temple of the Reformed Church built on the Place du Château, current Place de Verdun, between 1600 and 1603. After the destruction of the Great Temple and the inability to transform St. Barthelemy’s Church into a Cathedral, projects were studied to erect a new Church, but budgetary considerations and the priority given at the end of the 17C to the emergence of a new enclosure for the city did not permit the launch of the site.  In 1742, the first stone of the new Cathedral is blessed.  After further funds constraints the work resumed in 1773. By 1784, in the presence of the clergy and all the civil and military personalities of the city, Mgr de Crussol of Uzès consecrated the Cathedral.

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At the dawn of the French revolution, the Cathedral was built to the second span of the present choir, beyond which a wall separates the new Cathedral of St. Barthelemy’s. In 1802 , the Cathedral is returned to the cult. The construction of the new Cathedral is taken from 1849 to 1857, the Cathedral is completed with the exception of the two towers and exterior sculpted decorations. The Cathedral, having taken the bell tower from the last parish of  Saint Barthelemy,  was placed under the prayers of Saint-Louis and Saint-Barthélemy.  By chance of the calendar, their respective feasts are on August 24th for Saint-Barthélemy and on August 25th for St. Louis. Even thus, locally is simply call St Louis.It is raised as Cathedral since 1898.

Some of the architecture and historical Chapels are to follow:

The bell tower of Saint-Barthélemy is Gothic in style and adjoins the bedside of the Cathedral. During the reconstruction of St Barthelemy’s Church in the 14C – 15C, the steeple was built on the southwest corner of the building. This construction is attributed to the generosity of King Charles VII, named founder of the chapter of the Church in 1429. The summit is accessed by wooden staircases, the stone screws and the high vault having been demolished in 1651.. The bell tower contains the three bells of the Cathedral: Marie-Ursula  from 1818, Louise from 1818, and  Louise-Marie-Aimé from 1887.

The Chapel of the Virgin has a cupola dome adorned with a homogeneous pictorial ensemble consisting of 6 paintings depicting the scenes of the life of the Virgin surrounding the painting of the Assumption dated 1875. The other paintings represent the Annunciation, the Visitation, the Nativity, the flight to Egypt; the swooning of the Virgin; and the Virgin of Pity.  Each portrait consists of two contiguous copper plates . The Chapel of the Sailors(Marins) , the paintings come from the  Church of Saint-Jean-du-Perot, the former fishermen’s Church. This Church was located in the Saint-Jean-du-Perot district of La Rochelle, a district delimited by the tour de la chaine (chain tower) and the  tour de Lanterne (lantern tower) (see posts) and the Rue Leoncé Vieljeux. It was one of the five historical parishes of the city all the paintings and ex-votos are grouped in a Chapel of the cathedral, which became the Chapel of the Sailors. Most of these works represent shipwrecked ships, while the Virgin intercedes to save their crews.

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The Saphir, presenting a slave ship, recalls the participation of the port of La Rochelle in the slave trade. The ex-voto shows the ship Rochelais Sapphire immobilized for lack of wind between the coast of Guinea and that of Santo Domingo, threatening to famine the crew and the slaves. The painter represented several black slaves begging Christ. The main shipowner of the ship, Giraudeau, was Protestant and it is likely that Captain Rossal was also; this could explain the choice of Christ as intercessor in the place of the Virgin. The painting had to be painted in 1741 or shortly thereafter by an unknown artist.In the basement , there is a Roman stone slab 

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The stained glass windows were created in the 19C by three different workshops. Previously, the berries were simply furnished with white diamond-cut glasses and placed with lead fasteners. The existing stained glass windows were set up between 1872 and 1892.

The Great Organ at  the present Tribune corresponds to the project and plans of Brossard, dating from 1835. It is destined to receive the first organ of the Cathedral.  The organ is built in 1867 by the manufacture Merklin-Schütze and has been preserved almost intact until today. In 1869, the factors built a new buffet, the former of John Abbey not proving finally reusable for the new instrument. The Great Organ of the Cathedral allows to interpret the music of the 19C.

The Choir Organ is located in the first right-hand span of the choir. It is a work carried out in 1860-1861 by the Maison Merklin-Schütze in Paris. It consists of a Second Empire style buffet in oak with a central side of 13 pipes framed by 2 turrets themselves flanked by 2 small silent platforms. It has a vegetable decor on its turrets and above the cornice. The pipes are in tin.

The La Rochelle tourist office on the Cathedral: https://www.holidays-la-rochelle.co.uk/discover/city-strolls/historical-sites-and-monuments/cathedrale-saint-louis

The Parrish of La Rochelle Centre on the Cathedralhttps://paroisse-larochellecentre.fr/la-paroisse/cathedrale-saint-louis/

The Charente Maritime dept 17 (atlantic cognac) tourist office on La Rochellehttps://www.atlantic-cognac.com/walking-tour-larochelle/

There you go folks, a grand old Cathedral Saint Louis by the harbor town of La Rochelle. Wonderful indeed.  You have it all now to see this beauty, and hope you do.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!

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