Archive for May 12th, 2022

May 12, 2022

One more time in Saint Goustan !!!

And yes one more time in Saint Goustan, such a sublime spot in my beautiful MorbihanSince finding this spot when I first move to the Morbihan back in May 2011; I felled in love with Saint Goustan , a harbor district of Auray. I have several posts on the city , and it just won’t stop coming. Therefore, I just want to give you another glance of this wonderful harbor from my recent visit ,yesterday to Saint Goustan, Auray is in my beautiful Morbihan dept 56 of my lovely Bretagne ,right on the ria of Auray river that continues flowing into the Gulf of Morbihan and then into the Atlantic Ocean! It is only 14 km (about 9 miles) from my house !

auray st goustan old castle ruins may22

I was there yesterday to have one of those moment when former collegues decide to have a drink and share old memorable stories. Is all we have left once retired and I did it early to enjoy more of the short life we have! Anyway, this is my latest tour of Saint Goustan!

As my collegue was not from this area, I told him to meet at the fame Place Saint Sauveur right at the harbor, and go from there.  Place Saint-Sauveur with its curved cobblestones is framed by opulent half-timbered and corbelled houses. The steep alleys, interspersed with steps, attack the district, lined with half-timbered facades. The residences of the 15C and 16C display a respectable allure, which in the evening slums in the rustle of the café terraces. Indeed sublime, recommended to all readers, visitors and would be residents.

Auray st goustan pl st sauveur may22

Once parked along the Auray river banks, we met at the Place Saint Sauveur as schedule and decided where to have an apéro or apéritif drink. I suggested the lovely L’Armoric (see post) which is a regular venue for me and it was ok. We sat down with some Grimbergen blonde beers and talk the evening away from old stories and where our other collegues are gone and went. The talk was long and the drink extended , at the end we talk for 2,5 hrs and no food just beers!! Lovely, and we departed with promise of another meeting.

auray st goustan stone bridge loch river may22

As of my new life, these are the gracious moments we have to connect with what we did well and was fun as well as the friendship gathered over the years. Until next time by sublime Saint Goustan!

The city of Auray on its heritage see circuit Saint Goustan:

The Bay of Quiberon tourist office on Saint Goustan:

There you go folks, a dandy in my backyard. Saint Goustan is like nothing have change from the 16C, buildings, streets, you name it. One of the best out and about place closest to our home. Hope you enjoy the post as I.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!!

May 12, 2022

Coastal Douarnenez !!

I took the opportunity to visit further areas from me and decided to visit this beach town of Douarnenez. We took the ride using the road D7 and hit it right on straight over a beautiful view by the beach of Kervel with its wooden cabins on the sand. Of course, written on the main church but there are other things to see here, stay tune ! 

The town of Douarnenez, is in the Finistére dept 29 of my lovely Bretagne, It still keep the reputation of a sardines fishing port, even if it has diminish over the years. The great brand Connêtable (we like)  is still there. It is a fishing port dotted with beaches , a pleasure marina by Tréboul and Port-Rhu. This is the city in which the Kouign-Amann Breton dessert was invented. The town was enlarged in 1945 by merging with the neighboring towns of Ploaré, Pouldavid and Tréboul, and is now known as the city of the three ports (Port-Rhu, Port of Rosmeur, and Port de Plaisance).

The city indeed has three ports: the Rosmeur, a fishing port with auction, managed by the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Quimper Cornouaille, inaugurated in 1958 in its present form; Port-Rhu (former Ria de Pouldavid) where the museum port is based, inaugurated in 1992; and the marina in Tréboul.. In 1912,  the Douarnenez sailor’s shelter is inaugurated , and during WWI it housed a unit of the 151st Infantry Regiment. The shelter closed in 1971, but now houses the publishers of the magazine Chasse-Marée.

Douarnenez port Rhu riverdeck fishing dec13


We wandered around and cross the passerelle to go to Port Rhu and Tréboul areas, easy walking exercise and nice town, we like it and we will be back. The Port-Rhu was the starting point for two boats bound for England: the My gondola as of June 18, 1940, the day of the call of 18 June. Pilot students of the Le Mans Elementary pilotage aviation school, led by Reserve Lieutenant Pinot , embarked on 18 June 1940 aboard the Trébouliste, a lobster boat equipped with an auxiliary engine, led by François Lelguen they arrived in Falmouth on June 20, 1940 and helped to form the first nucleus of the future Free French Air Force (36 of them perished in air fights during WWII).


In by the harbor or port area, you have the wonderful Port-musée, with real boats on display showing you the boating history of the town as well expos, and videos. right across from the harbor entrance and the pleasure marina of Port-Rhu The Port-Rhu, a veritable conservatory of ancient boats, which illustrates the maritime life of Douarnenez. In 1993, it was inaugurated the Port-Museum of Port-Rhu, but the Port-museum had to close in 1995 due to lack of financial resources because it did not attract enough visitors. The Port-Museum opens again at the beginning of the year 2 000, with a more important budget ,webpage :




Tristan Island, which is located about 50 meters from the coast, is accessible on foot, during low tides with a strong coefficient. There is a mansion, a lighthouse and a fort. Tristan Island now belongs to the Conservatory of the coast.


The idea of having beach areas, fishing and pleasure port, and a museum makes an interesting point to seek in better weather, and the folks are very friendly. We stop for lunch there at Restaurant Pizzeria Da Franco, at 18, Place Edouard Vaillant, and the Italian natives family was very welcoming and the pizzas deliciosas! with a  liter of real red Italian chianti wine! all for 15€ per person including expresso coffee.  They offer pizzas, pasta, salads, desserts, ice creams, and beef plates with a formule and plat du jour, they ,also, have a branch in Brest. In Douarnenez they are just opposite the square to the tourist office, and the bus terminal. No webpage , the Restaurantguru reviews on the pizzeria :


The Douarnenez tourist office on its heritage/things to see :

The City of Douarnenez on its maritime history

The city of Douarnenez on its heritage :

There you go folks, a dandy coastal town with plenty to see, Doaurnenez is hidden in a harbor off the beaten path trail but worth the detour me think . Hope you enjoy as I

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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May 12, 2022

An introduction to Douarnenez !!

The town of Douarnenez is located 600 km from Paris, 250 km from Nantes and 25 km from Quimper, at the bottom of the Bay of Douarnenez, and is part historically of the Cornouaille. We go there on the N165 Nantes to Brest expressway connecting with the D 7 road into Douarnenez. There is no train station, but it has a bus terminal.  It is just 121 km from my house ! I am rather redoing this older post to show the wonderful beach town fully and you can see my other post on it. Hope you enjoy it as I.

Douarnenez pl edouard vaillant bus terminal dec13

It was only in 1790 that Douarnenez became an independent municipality (70 ha only), to the detriment of Ploaré, which it had hitherto depended on, and even the capital of the county. Douarnenez, a former truce of Ploaré, became a religious branch of Ploaré and became an independent parish in 1875.

The city, nestled at the bottom of a harmoniously curved bay, deploys its colorful and picturesque facades that have attracted many artists such as Auguste Renoir, Eugène Boudin, Maurice Boitel, Emmanuel Lansyer, and Roberto Cedrón…etc. The name of Douarnenez  would come from the Breton expression Douar an girl up (the land of the island) as the site dependent on Tristan Island. The name Douarnenectz appears for the first time in 1505, The name of Tristan was earlier to 1118 . It was on this date that the bishop of Cornouaille, Robert de Locuon donated in 1121 to the monks of the Abbey Tourangelle de Marmoutier of his small island of Saint Tristan.


At the time of the Wars of the League (1576-1598), the Bandit Guy Éder de la Fontenelle took advantage of the situation to brigand Brittany and more particularly the Cornouaille and the region of Douarnenez. Tristan Island was his base. The consensus of putting at the end of the wars of religion sees him even being given the governance of the island. Finally convinced of guilty of providing intelligence to the Spaniards and without forgetting the memory of its massacres, he was severely beaten to death in September 1602.

Dom Michel Le Nobletz lived in Douarnenez from 1617 to 1639, in a house close to the present St. Michael’s Chapel, built between 1663 and 1665 under the influence of the preacher Julien Maunoir . The 64 paintings adorning the ceiling of the chapel were painted between 1667 and 1675 (and completed in 1692): They represent scenes of the Passion of Christ, of the Life of the Virgin, of the Evangelists and of the Doctors of the Church, and are occasions of the taolennoù (teaching of Christian values by figures and portraits) by Michel Le Nobletz.

New halls (the Halles) were built in Douarnenez in 1871 at the site of a previous building that had become too cramped; Built on the floor, they were raised one story at the beginning of the 1930’s decade to set up the festive hall which opened in 1934; It was decorated by six painters who painted frescoes there. The decor of the festive hall of Douarnenez, above the old halls dating from the 19C, was entrusted, on the initiative of the mayor of the time Daniel Le Flanchec, to six painters: Abel Villard, Robert Paulo Villard , Lionel, Jim Sévellec, Gaston Paul, Maurice Le Scouëzec, who made 16 oils on toile, and were completed in 1938

Tristan Island: Accessible on foot at low tide when the tidal coefficients exceed 90, the island is managed by the Coastal conservatory, accessible to the public only on authorization or on certain days of the year and supervised by a guard. Its exotic garden houses 358 different floral species and protected animal species live on the island like the Quimper snail, the tawny owl or several species of bats.


The Plomarc’h, natural and historical site: The Plomarc’h are now a protected site of 16 hectares, acquired by the city of Douarnenez, the Department of Finistère and the Conservatoire du littoral. The town maintains a natural space open to the public, which includes in particular an educational farm that breeds farm animals of the Breton races and cultivates among other things black wheat. Afforestation is made up of the traditional trees of the region (chestnut, beech, oak)..


The Church of St. James  (14-15C): Built on the hillside, the church features a nave with 14C arcades, a 15C porch, and a 16C choir. The vault of the choir is adorned with sixteen 16C painted panels retracing scenes of Passion, but only fragments remain. The church contains several ancient statues, including a Piétà (late 17C) on a stone altar.

The Church of the Sacred Heart (Sacre Coeur) done in the neo-Gothic style in 1875, When it was consecrated in 1877, the spire had not yet been erected. It will be in 1939 ! On either side of the statue of the Sacred Heart, two cartridges with on one side two rowboats and on the other a school of fish. Inside the church, a model of the sardine boat “Notre Dame des Mers”. The decor often evokes maritime life. The church organ, made by the Beuchet-Debierre firm in Nantes, is made up of an art deco style case. It was bought in 1954 from a Parisian church by the parish of Douarnenez.


The Chapelle Saint-Michel is located 50 meters from the Port-Musée and the library; An earlier chapel of the same name is mentioned in 1312, but the present chapel was built between 1663 and 1668 at the site of the house where the preacher Michel le Nobletz had lived; Its baroque-style furnishings, among others a chested column altarpiece, dates back to the 17C. The chapel is best known for the paintings of its panelling which illustrate in 52 panels the taolennoù of Michel Le Nobletz, representing the mysteries, guardian angels, etc.

The Chapel of St. Helena on the Port of Rosmeur dates from the 17C, but was very revamped in the 18C. It comprises a nave of three bays with aisles, a high altar and two side altars with altarpieces dating back to the 18C and numerous statues. Two stained glass windows date from the 16C are probably due to a Spanish artisan.

The Chapel of St. John at Tréboul dates from the 18C, but with a re-use of a previous building dating from the 15C, especially for the windows. Its high altar in polychrome wood dates back to the 18C. It has ancient statues of polychrome wood of the Immaculate Conception, an angel of the Annunciation, two worshipping Angels, Saint John the Baptist, etc. It served as a parish church between 1841 and 1884. Its stained glass windows, set up between 1986 and 1988. A mutilated Calvary dating from the 17C is located at a nearby crossroads.

The statue of the Bolomig, at the place Gabriel Péri. This statue, dating from 1860 and overlooking a public fountain, is somewhat the emblem of Douarnenez. Its name originates from Bolomig Tal ar Groas in Breton ( “Little Man of the square of the Cross”, name that was the square at the time). Unbolted in 1932 to make way for parking, it was reinstalled in 1990. This is a copy of the original which is now in the hallway of the City hall of Douarnenez.

The Church of St. Herlé (see post) of Ploaré (16-18C).

The rise of the sardine fishery continued in the first half of the 19C and by 1860, Douarnenez had fished 300 million sardines, half of which is cooked in oil in the “Fried Foods” style before being put into cans still in good part pressed, with the exception of those that are sold fresh. In 1900, Douarnenez was the first French coastal fishing port.

In 1960, Douarnenez had about thirty yearly call ships (it was then the 2nd French port of lobster fishing behind Camaret-sur-Mer), Mostly built in the two aforementioned ports; The fishermen were going to fish the lobster (the green lobster and the pink lobster) off the coast of Mauritania and were for this reason referred to as “Mauritanians”: they were wooden vessels 26 to 35 meters long and 8 meters wide that were between 250 and 350 tons of gross tonnage and generally had a crew of 13 men, with vessels averaging out for three months.

In 2015, only two industrial canneries survived in the city of Penn Sardin: Cannery Paulet, which sells its products under the brand name Petit Naviere and which is located in the industrial zone of Pouldavid and the Cannery Chancerelle (the Maison Chancerelle would be the oldest cannery of sardines in the world still in operation), which has just left its historic factory on the port of Rosmeur to settle in the industrial zone of Lannugat, near the Cobreco, which Chancerelle repurchased in 2013; The Cobreco is the largest French group in the market for the canned scallops and tuna and is the result of the merger of two former canneries of Douarnenez: J. J. and Gourlaouen. An artisanal and family cannery. Kerbriant, also exists in the industrial zone of Lannugat. Currently, there are three industrial plants that have been able to grow, and are canning 70% of the French tuna Paulet (Petit Naviere), Cobreco (with its brands Arok and Jasc, it is the leader of the canned scallops and tuna Made in France) and Chancerelle (Brand Le Connétable).

The fishermen’s village of the Plomarc’h dates from the beginning of the 19C and has houses, with walls of granite stones coated with a whitewash of lime, have a ground in clay and were Initially covered with rye stubble before being slated. All the houses turned their backs to the sea, in order to protect themselves from the north wind. The openings were small and so it was dark at the interior. The village of Plomarc’h, with its penty houses and its breathtaking view of the bay, the port’s longboats, the beaches of the reef and the white sands, attracted many painters throughout the second half of the 19C and 20C; such as Jules Breton, Emmanuel Lansyer, Eugène Boudin, Maxime Maufra, Paul Sérusier, Charles Cottt, Paul Signac, Henri Matisse and many Scandinavian painters; Later, in the course of the 20C, Mathurin Méheut, Pierre de Belay, Maurice le Scouëzec, Émile Simon, Louis-Marie Désiré-Lucas. As well as Poets and writers have also been drawn here, such as José Maria de Heredia, Jean Richepin, Jules Breton, and Max Jacob.

The City of Douarnenez on its maritime history :

The City of Douarnenez on its religious monuments

The Douarnenez tourist office on its heritage/things to see :

The Bretagne tourist board on Douarnenez

There you go folks, a dandy beach town with plenty to see, Doaurnenez is hidden in a harbor off the beaten path trail but worth the detour me think . Hope you enjoy as I

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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