Archive for February 27th, 2022

February 27, 2022

The Bourse de Commerce and the arts of Paris!!!

I like to bring you an update to another wonderful building in Paris that was seldom seen until it was change. Let me tell you about the Bourse de Commerce where now reign the Pinault collection of Paris.

The Bourse de Commerce is a circular plan building surmounted by a dome located rue de Viarmes, in the Les Halles district of the 1éme arrondissement of Paris. It is also an institution that was housed until 1885 in the Palais Brongniart.(see post).  There is a new use for the Bourse de Commerce after been share with the Pinault Collection and the city of Paris. In 2016, the City of Paris and the Artémis company, which belonged to François Pinault, businessman and great collector. The building was delivered as planned on March 9, 2020 and opened to the public on May 22, 2021.

paris bourse de commerce sept15

The monumental entrance opens with a portico, located to the west of the building facing the Rue du Colonel-Driant, summoned by a pediment carried by four fluted Corinthian columns, which surmount three allegorical figures, representing the city of Paris flanked by Abundance and Trade.   The interior is decorated with painted panels representing characters symbolizing the four cardinal points, and monumental frescoes evoking the history of trade between five parts of the World ,America, Russia and the North, Asia, and Africa as well as Europe.

All on 5 floors,10,000 works are brought together in the Pinault collection, enough to make great discoveries in Paris. They can be found in 7 galleries on the outskirts of the rotunda. A 91-meter-long interior concrete walkway, culminating at 9 meters in height in order to observe the works, More than 6,800 m2 of exhibition space and equipped with walkways to access the floors, a La Halle aux Grains restaurant on the 3rd floor with views towards the Saint-Eustache Church, the Canopée des Halles and, beyond, the Saint-Jacques tower and the rooftops of Paris. A 286-seat basement studio for performances, screenings and conferences. The museum will operate in coordination with those of the Pinault Collection located in Venice and will present ten exhibitions a year. Each structure, however, has a specific direction, a kind of constellation of museums, each of the sites having its specificity, its singularity , And because art is above all plural, conferences, guided tours, workshops, screenings , concerts and performances will also be regularly scheduled.

paris bourse de commerce and st eustache church sept15

A bit of condense history on the Bourse de Commerce or the stock exchange of Paris.

At the approximate location where the Bourse de Commerce or trading stock market is today was the hotel de Soissons, which belonged to Jean II of Nesles at the beginning of the 13C. Having no heirs, he gave in 1232 the property to Saint Louis, who offered it to his mother, Blanche of Castille, to make it her residence. Philippe le Bel, who inherited it, offered it in 1296 to his brother, Charles de Valois. The hotel then passed to the son of the latter, Philippe de Valois, who gave it to Jean of Luxembourg, son of the emperor Henry VII of the Holy Roman Empire and himself King of Bohemia. His daughter, Bonne of Luxembourg, heiress of the hotel in 1327, married Prince Jean de Normandie, the future king of France under the name of Jean Le Bon. Their son, Charles, ceded it to Amédée VI of Savoy in 1354. He then took part in Louis, Duke of Anjou and son of King Jean. His widow, Marie de Blois, sold it in 1388 to Charles VI, who offered it to his brother Louis, duke of Touraine and Orléans.

From 1572, Catherine de Medici suddenly abandoned the palace of the Tuileries, which she had built and acquired a hotel called Albret, consisting of various mansions that adjoined the convent. She settled there and began the development of what was to become the Hôtel de la Reine or Queen’s Hotel.  The fluted astronomical column, also known as the Medici column, 31 meters high, is the only surviving vestige of this hotel. The heirs of the Queen ceded the hotel to Catherine de Bourbon, sister of Henri IV. On the death of the latter, it was acquired by Charles de Bourbon, Count of Soissons, who gave it his name. The tel de Soissons then showed its appearance and its final look. In 1720, the Paris stock Exchange was created here.The prevost of Paris bought the land and destroyed the buildings in 1748. By 1763 a wheat market, on the banks of the Seine was created, and this building became the Bourse de Commerde of Paris or trade exchange in 1885. The ensemble was inaugurated on September 24, 1889. The city of Paris transferred ownership of the building to the Chamber of Commerce, for a symbolic French Franc in 1949.  Almost all of the monument was occupied by the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Paris.

paris bourse de commerce from halles nov19

However, in 2016, the businessman François Pinault and the Mayor of Paris announced the departure of the Chamber of Commerce and the installation and presentation of a part of the art collections of Mr Pinault, managed hitherto by what was presented as a Foundation Pinault, in the circular building. The official end of the work was scheduled for December 17, 2018 and the opening to the public start 2019. However, as you can see from above due to covid and al  the opening was done May 22 2021. 

The official Pinault collection Bourse de Commerce Paris:

The City of Paris on the Bourse de Commerce

The Paris tourist office on the Bourse de Commerce

The official Le Halles aux Grains restaurant :

There you go folks, a wonderful building and now a great arts center in a grand location of my eternal Paris. Hope you enjoy the post as I and do visit when possible.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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February 27, 2022

My walks of Bourges!!!

This is another wonderful city to walk in my belle France. So many times in Bourges, and recently visited again. I have plenty written on it in my blog, so will do this one in my black and white series, no pictures. Hope you enjoy my brief walk of Bourges,

And I take you up to Bourges. We came to Bourges, the majestic city that was for a short period the capital of the kingdom of France. It’s huge gothic cathedral, the wooden houses, mansions Renaissance style , the marshes are all sublime.

You go to the Place Gordaine the old butchers’s market to meet up with the four pedestrians streets nice. The corner of this square with the rue Coursalon and the Palais Jacques-Coeur, you get into the passage Casse Cou to link upper and lower town, and the rue d’Auron, where on house palais d’Auron was born Jacques Coeur, This is Bourges.

You can’t missed the Cathedral Saint Etienne de Bourges bigger than ND de Paris ; when in 1195 the bishop Sully decided to rebuilt it, Its crypt built in the 12C keeps the remains of duke Jean de Berry. Be courageous and climb the 86 steps to the tour Nord, with beautiful views of the city. At its foot see the gardens of the city hall, French style of the 17C designed by a student of Le Nôtre, Follow up to the rue Moyenne, the most merchant of the city, take the street to your left you arrive at the Palais Jacques Coeur, the big house of the money men of king Charles VII and built between 1443 to 1451,

You descend the stairs to your left of the palace to come to rue des Arénes bordered by the courthouse and the Berry museum that took the building Hôtel Cujas built in the 16C, Passed by the place Planchat to link up with the place Gordaine by the rue Pelvoysin and rue Mirebeau,one of the prettiest with wooden houses and its terraces, You know Bourges has 430 wooden houses with the majority built in the last years of the 15C ! Worth the detour !

You can walk the Promenade des Remparts along the gallo Roman walls in parallel do not missed the rue Bourbonnoux with the Hôtel Lallemand a Renaissance building housing today the decorative arts museum. You are walking on pave brick streets ! Here in September you can see the night lights of Bourges event when all lights up coming into the night,

In city center Bourges you go to the Place Saint Bonnet then take the rue Edouard Vaillant to go to the avenue Marx-Dormoy, here you can access a unique land of another world, you are in the marshes of Bourges 130 hectares of green share in different parcels in the heart of the city. This swampy area serve as defense to the city for years and it was in the 13C that they were made into parcels for cultivation. Today there are about 1500 gardeners have replaced the pros market gardeners, There are several cabins that serves as housing, You keep going by a trail before you see a surprising bar on the chemin du Caraquis, a meeting place of gardeners, Here they regroup to go into the areas only accessible by boat, Instead you turn left into chaussée de Chappe until the railroad line that will bring you to the avenue Marx-Dormoy. Coming back you will have a great view of the Cathedral, Worth the walk and visit indeed ! To visit with the Association des Maraîchers berruyers with a guide contact webpage:

To recap the best to see in Bourges, many already written posts on it, These are: the Musée du Berry, Musée Estéve, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Musée des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France ,Palais Jacques Coeur, Cathédrale Saint Etienne de Bourges, Halle au Blé, Palais d’Auron, Church St Pierre, Church St Bonnet, Halles St Bonnet, and of course the marshes!

The city of Bourges on its heritage:

The Bourges tourist office :

The local Berry province tourist office on Bourges:

There you go folks, another dandy in my belle France! The sky is the limit so much to see all beautiful, and Bourges ranks up there with the best. Hope you enjoy this brief walk in Bourges as I.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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February 27, 2022

My walks of Amiens!!

This is another wonderful city to walk in my belle France. So many times in Amiens, yet not there lately due to the virus syndrome scaring us all. I have plenty written on it in my blog, so will do this one in my black and white series, no pictures. Hope you enjoy my brief walk of Amiens!!

And I take you up to Amiens, the heart of the Somme river. In the neighborhood of Saint Leu the town relive with modernity and keeping the old traditions of this great city of the north. This is the neightborhood of the artists and which the arm of the Somme river was a big help. Saint Leu was a little Venice of the North for Louis XI. A trip on its canals is a good initiation to the beat of Amiens.

You have narrow streets, winding with small colorful houses along the banks of the Somme river with restaurants, cafés, antiquares, the popular old neighborhood of Saint Leu comes to life.

By the Pont de la Dodane, and to the left the quai Bélu de la Queue de la Vache it was here that the beast were brought to the river, today is a big nightime of the locals is here. At no 35 there is a narrow impasse with colorful houses, and the passage Bélu few meters open the antiques and fleas market.

Going back out to the Pont du Cange the oldest in Amiens has lost two towers on the right the quai Parmentier the place of meeting of the market gardeners and gourmets every Saturday. You go on to the picturesque streets of Rue des Archers, rue des Coches, rue de Parcheminiers, will get you started in old Saint Leu showing the old traditions.

At the corner of rue de la Dodane and rue Motte, see several beautiful colorful houses with different materials from wood, to red bars, alternative of bricks to bring out the chalk or the flat tile or pan de Beauvais. On the other side of the river, see at No 56 the narrowest house in Saint Leu and at no 58 with four meters facade and two meters across a typicla house of Amiens. The rue Canteraine takes you to the pont à Moinet the most elegant. To the left, the sacristy of the Church Saint Leu straddling the canal, the passarelle to the right takes you to place Aristide Briand where on a green spot see Lafleur the homegrown puppet . You can see performances at the Théatre Chés Cabotans d’Amiens at 31 rue Edouard David, webpage:

And of course, you cannot miss this one ever, the grand gorgeous immense Cathédrale Notre Dame d’Amiens built between 1220 and 1270. Its dimensions are impressive with 145 meters long, an interior volume of 200K sq meters, it could hold two ND de Paris! A nave of 126 pillars that raise 42.5 meters high and spire of 113 meters. A biblical iconography that is simply awesome with 400 sculpture scenes on armrests of the 110 stalls with unusual representations of trades, stories, and other mores of daily life. From the north tower of the Cathedral and after climbing 307 steps you have a magnificent view of the city of Amiens with below the medieval bishop’s garden. The cathedral was destroyed in may 1940 in 60% rebuilt in the 1950’s.

The city of Amiens and its heritage:

The Amiens tourist office on its heritage:

Today we come to Amiens for the arts ;the history, the musée de Picardie housing a wonderful collection and to walk its streets or enjoy the terraces of Saint Leu. Nice Amiens in dept 80 of the Somme and in the region of Hauts de France. Enjoy the walks in Amiens!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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