Well, again written plenty on wines my other passion. However, left this one out for no reason. It’s true the call to fame is the Beaujolais noveau, which had become a fad which we followed until several years back. Well, we have stayed in the area and would like to have an imprint in my blog on the wonderfully fresh young Beaujolais which is a lot more than nouveau! Which by the way should be out November 17 2022. Therefore, here is my take on the Beaujolais wine route!! , and in my black and white series, no pictures,,,ok a couple on the wines lol!
We start in the town of Beaujeu, very fitting me think. Beaujeu keeps its past when this barony reigned from Forez to La Bresse, very beautiful remains especially in the area near the Saint Nicolas Church built around 1130 under Guichard III sire de Beaujeu on the site of a pond where the legend reports that his son would have drowned and was consecrated in 1132 by Pope Innocent II. A few steps away, a Renaissance style half-timbered house and galleries shelters the oenological center of the Sources du Beaujolais, another 17C residence houses the town hall and the Marius Audin museum dedicated to the popular arts and traditions of the region. Another remarkable building, the Hôtel de la Tour, on Place de la Liberté is said to have welcomed Louis XI during one of his stays in Beaujolais, But the Hospices are undoubtedly the major monument of Beaujeu, If the origin of the Hôtel Dieu remains difficult to date, the foundation of the hospices dates back to at least 1240. The great turning point in its history occurs However, on March 19, 1797, the decision was taken to put the wine from the vineyards belonging to the hospices up for sale at public auction. Today 81 hectares of vines from which three famous crus are produced, reignie, morgon and brouilly.
The sources of Beaujolais today the La Maison des Terroirs Beaujolais: https://lamaisonduterroirbeaujolais.com/visiting-area?lang=en
The Hôtel-Dieu hospital on its history: https://www.hopital-beaujeu.fr/hospice/
Let me tell you briefly as an introduction to the 10 crus of Beaujolais!
Brouilly fruit red plums and peaches. The largest with 1200 hectares and with the coast of brouilly and windmill do not bear the name of the village, Especially see the Chateau de La Chaize (great wine had plenty) 1676 for the nephew of the revered father La Chaize confessor of Louis XIV by Jules Hardouin Mansart for the house and André Le Nôtre for the gardens, has a spectacular winery that is the longest (100 meters) in the region, Also 98 hectares of vines. Known as one of the international city of vine and wine that only a hundred cities in the world have been awarded
Côte de Brouilly, fresh grapes and irises. Culminating at 485 meters, Mont Brouilly with a hillside covered with vines sports at its summit a small chapel with the welcome name Notre Dame des Raisins, A place of worship for the Celts is still a place of pilgrimage today.
Morgon Cherries, peaches and apricots. It is the town of Morgon and not Morgon 2 km further south which is the capital of the appellation, In a town center park stands the 17C Château de Fontcrenne, admittedly transformed into a city hall but which has kept its pleasant vault,
Saint Amour, kirtch, spices and reseda. The village owes its name to a Roman legionnaire martyred in 286 for having converted to Christianity. In 1793 Saint Amour became Bellevue. A happy choice and so justified that we no longer speak today that of Saint Amour-Bellevue,
Chénas, floral and woody notes. The only wine that Louis XIII accepted at his table! ,It is also the smallest of the crus, The Château de Chassignol built in the 17C and remodeled during the Restoration (1815) in an Italianate style now houses the headquarters of the winemaking cooperative. Its vaulted cellar with a basket handle justifies she alone the visit
Chiroubles, Pivones and muguet. One of the rare female brotherhoods, the Damoiselles de Chiroubles since 1996 their Grand Chapter is held there every spring during the festival of vintages. Near the Col de Truges, the Terrasse and Col de Durbize you can see superb views beyond the Saône plain extending to the Alps and the Jura. One of my latest drank bottle.
Fleurie, Iris, violets and blackcurrant. The most feminine of the Beaujolais wines are grown on the slopes of Le Puy, Mont Genas and the Madone hill.
Régnié, Currants, blackberries and raspberries. Although their vines are with those of juliénas the oldest of Beaujolais, it was not until 1988 that the winegrowers of Régnié-Durette had their wine recognized as a Beaujolais cru. Enjoy to go in search of the three castles which are near the village, that of the Tour Bourdon, of which only ruins remain but located on a hill, that of the Pierre built in the 16C, that of the Vergers finally that served as a frame for Robert Mazoyer’s TV movie A nous les beaux dimanches (1986),
Juliénas, peaches and red fruits. A tenacious legend tell us the vineyard took its name from Julius Caesar. See the Château de Juliénas built in the 14C and entirely rebuilt in the 16C, has remarkable vaulted cellars, the Château du Bois de la Salle is a former 17C priory which in 1960 became the headquarters of the cooperative. The old church has been transformed into a tasting cellar, adorned with a joyful fresco of satyrs, bacchus, and fairly naked nymphs, You can go to the nearby village of Jullié and see the Chateau de la Roche, swing bridge, its ditches, its entrance gate and its central body flanked by four pavilions, And one of my latest drank bottle:
Moulin à Vent, irises, wilted roses and spices. The Moulin à Vent area spreads out over gentle slopes dominated by the hill on which the buildings are perched. In Romanéche-Thorins the Plaisirs en Beaujolais park, try to make discover the wines of the appellation with your family, Gathered by the merchant Georges Duboeuf (RIP) the pope of Beaujolais, The highlight of the visit is the tasting room designed like a station buffet where you can drink a cannon to the sound of a colossal lemonade.
The Hameau Duboeuf : https://www.hameauduvin.com/anglais/index-en.html
The Beaujolais Destination area tourist office: https://www.destination-beaujolais.com/en/
Around that wonderful Beaujolais Nouveau wine there is a festif marathon, which we have not participated but seen passing by, i put their webpage here for reference: https://www.marathondubeaujolais.org/en/
I could not finish this post without telling you a bit about the bigger town in the area and one we have been too. We visited briefly way back to buy toys for my boys lol !! While we were on the road warrior trip been lodge in a gîte or rental house by Buxy. Villefranche sur Saône is one of those sleepy town not much known but nice as in France. The town was created by Humbert III de Beaujeu in 1140, A wonderful street here is one that initially was called Grand’Rue, then rue Royale, rue Impériale, and finally rue Nationale.
At the lower point of the rue Nationale, the Notre Dame des Marais Collegiate Church, built from the 12C, was rebuilt in the 15C with the addition of the central tower then in the 16C with the construction of the Flamboyant Gothic style facade. higher up see the St. Peter’s Church,
The rue Nationale is awesome for shopping and sightseeing in town. At No 834 maison des Bourbon built between 1492 and 1507 . At No 816 maison de la ville des Echevins renaissante style like the Maison Giliquin at No 810. At No 761 Maison de la Tourelle early 16C. At the corner of rue Nationale and rue Paul Bert two attach facades of the Pêcherie one gothic and the other renaissance, You see La Coupe d’Or at No 528 very old auberge with a tower in the courtyard as well as a water well dating from Louis XIV time. At No 524 a door opens on a long corridor that take you to the last wooden gallery surviving Villefranche sur Saône. On the other side of the street at No 523 a wooden tower cut from the Hôtel Mignot de Bussy as well as the monumental kitchen in the street level floor. At No 407 the Maison de l’Italien with an octagonal tower and mofits in its facade that reminds you of the palace Jacques Coeur in Bourges,(see post), It has a renaissance gallery and back with houses from the 17C.
The street nearby the rue Nationale has some pretty buildings as well such as at No 125 rue Corlin, a narrow ally that takes you to the courtyard of the Maison des Fleurons work of art from the transition period of the gothic to the renaissance. Also, the Hôtel Gayand with its small courtyard decorated with sculpture stones and the Maison du Patrimoine at No 30 rue Roland, buildings of the 15C with temporary and permanent expos as well as the musée de la Conscription. You can see the musée Paul Dini place Flaubert with a collection of over 450 works retracing the history of painting from Lyon to the Rhône Alpes of 1875 to our days.
The Beaujolais destination tourist office on Villafranche sur Saône: https://www.destination-beaujolais.com/en/villefranche-sur-saone.html
The city of Villafranche sur Saône on its history: http://www.villefranche.net/index.php/capitale-du-beaujolais/un-peu-dhistoire/46-histoire-de-savoir.html
There you go folks, a dandy area to explore and explore more indeed. Memorable moments on my road warrior trips and family visits of yesteryear always remember and always looking forward to be back. Hope you enjoy the post on the Beaujolais and its cities as I
And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!
Paris1972-Versailles2003 