Paris1972-Versailles2003

Ok so even thus written on the gardens of the palace/museum of Versailles, there are areas dear to me that have not given the full credit they deserve. Therefore, let me update this older post to tell you a bit more on the bosquets or groves in the garden of the Palace of Versailles. Even thus, I will say again, there is a lot more to see in the city than the palace, just browse thru my blog search Versailles; you will be amaze of what you find here!

They are many but I do have my favorites. Nevertheless, will tell you  a bit on all and then some. Hope you enjoy it as I. Info: Of the fifteen current groves, only five groves of Le Nôtre have been preserved or found their original appearance: the grove of the Girandole and the grove of the Dauphin which are essentially lounges of greenery, the grove of Enceladus, the Grove of the Three Fountains and that of the Ballroom.

The Queen’s grove. This grove replaced the famous Labyrinth grove, installed in 1665-1666 and enhanced in 1677 with a series of thirty-nine painted lead fountains in a lifelike representation of the animals in Aesop’s fables. This wonder was destroyed when the gardens were replanted in 1775-1776 and replaced by today’s grove. Initially called Venus’s Grove and later the Queen’s Grove.

The Ballroom grove is one of my favorites.  The Ballroom Grove was the last grove to be laid out in the gardens by Le Nôtre. The works began in 1680 and were completed in 1685. The Bosquet des Rocailles or Salle du Bal is located near the following places for direction: to the north, the rampe du Midi, which separates it from the parterre de Latone, to the east, the parterre du Midi, to the south, the bosquet de la Reine, scattered by the allée de Bacchus-and Allée de Saturne ,to the west the bosquet de la Girandole. The Bassin de Bacchus is located at the southwest corner, the fontaine du Midi at the northeast corner.  The Ballroom grove has three entrances on the Allée de Bacchus-and-Allée de Saturne, in the middle. The Salle de Bal is decorated by several vases and torches in golden lead. Arranged by André Le Nôtre between 1680 and 1683, the grove is the last compound before the installation of king Louis XIV at Versailles. It was inaugurated in 1685. The central zone originally had an oval dance floor, delimited by a small canal. This track is destroyed in the early 18C.

The Girandole grove was one of the first groves to be laid out by Le Nôtre in 1663. Designed as green bowers, each has a central chamber adorned with a fountain installed in 1669. To the south, the border of the pool was decorated in 1682 with a reed motif: water jets converged toward the centre of the pool, where a water spout sprang from a metal basket of flowers painted in a lifelike manner. In 2000 the grove and their fountains were restored to their original state.

The Colonnade grove, started in 1685 by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the Colonnade replaced the Spring Grove created by Le Nôtre in 1679. In the center, the original pool was replaced in 1696 by the group sculpture by Girardon: The Abduction of Proserpine by Pluto.

The Chestnut grove. The layout of the Chestnut Grove resembles a verdant gallery adorned with a fountain at each end. It replaced a grove designed by Le Nôtre in 1678 .The extremities of this veritable open-air museum were enhanced with fountains. In 1704 Jules Hardouin-Mansart eliminated the fountains and the central island, replacing them with two rows of chestnut trees.

The Grove of the Domes. This grove was frequently refashioned and its name changed as the decor was modified. Created by Le Nôtre in 1675, it has an amphitheatre design with the central arena occupied by a hexagonal pool surrounded by a golden metal balustrade adorned with eighteen pillars, each projecting water that gushes into the pool. Between 1684 and 1705, the grove was home to the three sculpted groups from the Grotto of Thetis, which had just been demolished. Finally, in 1708, the central fountain was replaced by a white marble bowl propped up by dolphins.

The Enceladus grove , has a fountain made of lead by Gaspard Marsy between 1675 and 1677. The subject is borrowed from the fall of the Titans, buried under the rocks of Olympus by the gods they had wished to dethrone. The design of the grove, its surroundings punctuated with trellis pavilions linked by bowers, was entirely modified in 1706 by Jules Hardouin-Mansart. A restoration programme conducted between 1992 and 1998 restored the original appearance of the grove.

The Obelisk grove has a general outline that iss all that remains of the Feasting Chamber Grove laid out by Le Nôtre between 1671 and 1674 and completely redesigned by Jules Hardouin-Mansart in 1705-1706.

The Apollo’s baths grove is another of my favorites. Today’s Apollo’s Baths Grove dates from the reign of Louis XVI and was laid out between 1778 and 1781. The painter Hubert Robert designed an English-style garden with its centre occupied by a lake, overlooked by an immense artificial rock enhanced with cascades and a grotto where the Apollo group was installed, while the two Horses of the Sun groups were positioned on either side. The Bosquet des Bains d’Apollon is a decoration in the gardens of the Palace of Versailles. Located immediately west of the castle, it was made in the romantic spirit under the reign of king Louis XVI, between 1776 and 1778. In 1778, the former Bosquet du Marais created by Jules Hardouin-Mansart in 1704 under the probable instigation of Madame de Montespan, becomes the Bosquet des Bains d’Apollon. In 1704, the three groups were installed in the bosquet de la Renommée , which occupied the northeast corner of the current grove and took the name of Bosquet des Bains d’Apollon.   To protect the works, frail iron canopies trimmed golden lead ornaments were completed in 1705.

In 1778, the statues were moved in the bosquet du Marais redesigned for the occasion and which then takes the name of the bosquet des bains d’Apollon. For the redevelopment of the grove an artificial cave in the middle of a green landscape dotted with waterfalls and small pools of water, in the Anglo-Chinese style then fashionable. An English garden whose center is occupied by a lake dominated by a huge dummy rock adorned with waterfalls and dug a cave in which is installed the group of Apollo, while the two groups of the Horses of the Sun are placed from either side. Apollo is accompanied by five nymphs, in the grotto of the Bosquet des Bains d’Apollon, a set of seven statues, the first masterpiece carved in marble and probably the most important for Versailles. The central figure of the composition was freely inspired by the Apollo Belvedere and also evoked that of the King, two side groups representing the Horses of the Sun which replaced those of December 1667.

The Star grove was laid out in 1666, took its name from its shape, one of the most complex in the garden. It was reached by four pathways leading from the corners of the surrounding woods. Early in the 18C the grove was modified profoundly and its complicated layout was eliminated along with the pool. A restoration programme has recently reproduced a part of the plan used by Le Nôtre , such as a circular pathway and meandering paths, with the heart of the grove remaining a lawn.

The Water Theatre Grove was laid out between 1671 and 1674 and enabled the hydraulics engineers François and Pierre Francine to deploy their talents to the full. Being extremely costly to maintain, the Water Theatre was replaced at the end of the 18C by the more modest Green Ring Grove.  The Palace of Versailles launched an international competition in 2009 to restore the grove, and the new grove was inaugurated in 2015.

The Grove of the three fountains was created by Le Nôtre in 1677 and is the only one mentioned on an old map as being “the King’s idea”. Running parallel to the Water Walk, the natural slope dictated the layout over three distinct levels linked by cascades. It was restored in 2005.

The Triumphal arch grove installed by Le Nôtre between 1677 and 1684 ;only remaining part is the lower part, near the Neptune Fountain. It was reached, and is still reached, from the upper terrace, by a great Triumphal Arch of golden metal gleaming with water jets and cascades.

The official Palace of Versailles on its groves (most info above taken from): https://en.chateauversailles.fr/discover/estate/gardens/groves#triumphal-arch-grove

The gardens are a must to visit and will take you a whole day to see it all. This is a huge property and unfortunately most foreign guides tells you to head for the inside and then the rest. To me it should be the other way around one day gardens one day inside and then maybe another half day for the Trianons/Hameau. Then , you can leave saying you saw the Domaine de Versailles , and not just the palace! Enjoy the bosquets or groves of my beloved Palace of Versailles.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

Well walking is a pleasant and educational way to see a city. I try as hard as I can to walk as much as possible when visiting any city. My former city is no different, even if passing by car, I am always curious to walk those streets !  Versailles been trace by a King, is easy to walk, it is not hilly ,and only a small cluster of a couple of areas where the streets are narrow and old. The rest is wide boulevards and street spreading furiously from the Palace/museum. The main mayor’s office or Hôtel de Ville is at 4 avenue de Paris.

I will try to tell you my favorite city districts , and what’s in it for the visitor, as much as I can describe them. Bear in mind many of these I have done individual posts in my blog. As said, Versailles is a lot more than the palace/museum! No pictures just my black and white series ,a bit long but the city is worth it me think.

First from as far as possible to the Palace/museum, you have the district of Montreuil. This used to be the preferred residential area of the royal families trying to be away from the court in the castle and some privacy. It is, also, the biggest district of Versailles.  The limits is more or less the avenue de Paris on the limit with the town of  Viroflay until rue Montbauron , making detours by the avenue de St Cloud,  rue de Provence, boulevard de la Reine and ending at the boulevard de la République. 

Some of the best monument/attractions here is the Domaine de Madame Elizabeth, 73 avenue de Paris. She was the sister of king Louis XVI, and also guillotine in 1794, now in process of beatification. Across the park from it, you have the Maison des Musiciens Italiens, 15 rue Champ-la-Garde, 17C architecture and home of the musicians that king Louis XIV made come from Italy in 1676. The Church of Saint Symphorien,Place St Symphorien built from 1764-1770 was the favorite of Madame Elizabeth; and act as the neighborhood main church.  Finally ,see the Pavillon de Musique de la Comtesse de Provence, 111 avenue de Paris. This was built for her, the sister in law of king Louis XVI, at the revolution it was sold in 3 lots and split again in the 19C to its current much smaller size.

We can now embark on a closer district to my old home,the Vieux Versailles (old Versailles). This is an area not draw out into an administrative jurisdiction, but it really is around the district of  Saint Louis. However, for historical/tourism purposes, it is offer separate here. As can imagine, it is the smaller district of Versailles. It lies to the right of the Palace/museum when you stand at the Place d’Armes back on it you look towards the right. Here you will find the Jeu de Paume, on the very small street of rue du Jeu de Paume, built in 1686, and it preserve the best jeu de paume or ancestor of tennis of our time. it was here that the sermon (June 20,1789) by the deputies was done in order not to leave the room until the constitution was completed. The Hôtel du Grand Contrôle, 12 rue de l’Indépendance Américaine, it was purchase by king Louis XV to house its finance ministry, now it is a military club or circle. Hôtel de la Surintendance des Bâtiments, 9 rue de l’Indépendance Américain, built early 18C to house the administration of buildings and paintings of the king.  Hôtel de la Guerre, 3 rue de l’Indépendance Américain, built in 1759 on the site of the vegetable garden of king Louis XIII. L’Hôtel des Affaires Etrangéres et de la Marine, 5 rue de l’Indépendance Américain, built in 1761, and still has its original salons or rooms. It is here that the treaty acknowledging the American Independance was signed in 1783 ,and the support of France for the American troops. It is now a very prestigious library with books of the kings  that have lived at Versailles.  Convent of the Recollets, 9 rue des Récollets,(hotel was going to be built here I heard) built in 1684, today it still preserve the cloister, the main portal door of the chapel partially destroyed during the French revolution.  Old Hôtel des Postes, 2 rue Saint Julien, built in 1752, at the expense of king Louis XV to serve as the post office. Grand Commun, 1 rue de l’Indépendance Américain, built by Mansart in 1684 on the site of the church of St Julien, heart of the old village., this is the old living quarters of the domestic service of the court of Versailles. I have taken a peek and it is gorgeous!  and of course, here they put the Palace of Versailles too Lol! you know the one !!!  The Grande et Petit Ecurie, place d’Armes, built by Mansart to house the horses and stables of the king, they know houses the dept archives,architecture shops to restore whats in the palace, and Bartabas as well as carriage museum.  The Hôtel de la Chancellerie, 24 rue de la Chancellerie, built in 1670 to house the Chancellor of France, abandon after the French revolution of 1789; after renovations in 1951 the city of Versailles houses now the Conservatory of Music and Dramatic Arts.

We are in the district of  Saint Louis. Now a bit smaller as the rest is put in the designated old Versailles or Vieux Versailles (see above) . Here you will marvel at the Hôtel des Gardes du Corps du Roi, 5 rue Royale, built in 1750 to update the building of old built during king Louis XIV, it is the official body guards of the king or the Suisses (Swiss). The Carrés Saint Louis, adjacent to rue Royale and rue d’Anjou, this was an old market from 1737, with many boutiques of each a trade. There were held on sticks/columns  in a square such as “au puits”, “à la Fontaine”, ” à l’Avoine”, and “à la Terre” ; therefore the name Carrés or square Saint Louis.  The Réservoir des Carrés, just by the north side of the Carrés, it collected the water from the Seine and its sources it fed the fountains of the district; built in 1766. At the ground floor it serves as the fire dept. The Chapelle de la Providence, Place Saint Louis, built in 1767,  it provide the cathacism to the children, and a funeral chapel for the people of the court. The Cathédrale Saint Louis, Place Saint Louis, built between 1743-1754. It houses the organ of Cliquot, and became a Cathedral in 1802. The king Louis XIV promise and king Louis XV delivered as wanted to pay tribute to king Louis IX (Saint Louis). The Maison des Prêtres Lazaristes, Place Saint Louis, built in 1760;  the priest serving the Cathedral came here,and still has its presbyterian functions today.  La Fontaine, Place Saint Louis, built in 1766; fed by the water of the Réservoir Carré, it provided water to the people of the district. The Potager du roi, 4-6 rue Hardy, built by La Quintinie in 1778 to fed the inmense needs of the court. The old section of the garden and plants have been preserved, it is extended today to the jardin/Parc de Balbi, and every wednesday morning a market is held to sell its bounty . The Maison natale du Général Hoche, (native house of Gen Hoche) ,18 rue Satory, born in Versailles in 1768, Lazare Hoche was under the French revolution a General at the age of 25! He stop the insurrection of the Vendée/Bretagne and at the head of the army of Sambre-et-Meuse he died at the age of 29. Propertly the Rive Gauche-Château RER C train station is in this district.

And, the best for last ,we move on to my old district, Notre Dame. It has by far the most monuments of old Versailles with the exception of the Palace/museum,and the most beautiful !!!  king Louis XIV gave us the Marché de Notre Dame in 1721. The actual place was given out after the Domaine de Clagny built in 1665 was demolished. It was renovated with today’s halls in 1841. It is the center of the city, if you want to know us!  The old Hôtel de Madame de Pompadour, 7 rue des Réservoirs, just attached to the castle, built in 1752 for the Marquise de Pompadour; after her death in 1764 the house came back to her brother the marquis de Marigny who sell it to king Louis XV to make a government building until it became in the 20C a hôtel des réservoirs or water reserves dept.  The Théatre Montansier, 13 rue des Réservoirs,built in 1777 and open by Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette themselves. Its decorations in blue have given it one of the most beautiful in France. Still a theater today!!!  The Ecuries de la Reine, 5 rue Carnot, built in 1672, stables of the king, then the Duchesse of Burgundy under Louis XIV it finally became the stables of the queen of France until 1789. The popular Place Hoche, rue Hoche, and rue Carnot, the old place Dauphine, design under Louis XIV according to the octagonal designs that were to be the urbanism school for all Europe.  The Hôtel du Baillage et l’Anciénne Geôle, at the angle of rue Ducis and rue de la Pourvoirie, built in 1724 around the marché Notre Dame, to use for the bailifs or justice minister as well as prison, it became the Court of Conferences until 1938. It houses today a gallery of antiques.  The Collegiate Church of Notre Dame, 35 rue de la Paroisse, built by Mansart in 1684, it is the church of the castle of Versailles. Its registries are consigned to the acts of baptism, marriages, death of the royal families. It is from here that the cortege procession of the General Estates takes place in May 4, 1789. It is wonderful inside!!! The Musée Lambert, 54 blvd de la Reine, built from the 18C, and now the museum of the city of Versailles including the work of sculptor Jean Houdon, to religious arts of the middle ages.  The Chapelle de l’Hôpital Civil, 76 blvd de la Reine, built end of the 18C, it is now a modern building of luxury apartments that has left the chapel intact.  The Lycée Hoche or high school Hoche, 73 avenue de Saint Cloud, The queen Marie Leszinska ordered the building of the school to house the congregation of the Augustins of Compiégne in charge of the education of the young girls. they left the place in October 1, 1792 under the French revolution.  The Lycée Imperial for boys was established  on May 7, 1807 ,and it carries since 1888 the name of an a native of Versailles, General Hoche. It is one of the most prestigious learning centers in France. The Hôtel de la Préfecture, 11-13 avenue de Paris, built between 1864-1866 . In 1870 it houses the Headquarters of the Prussian chief of staff, and in 1880 it comes back to be the préfecture or regional government of the dept 78 of Yvelines. For your car registration and immigration etc purposes today. Also, my wonderful Rive Droite train station to Paris-Saint Lazare!

A bit more on the district of Chantiers. The Hôtel de Ville, 4 avenue de Paris, built in 1670 , king Louis XIV buys it for the kids of the Duchese de la Valliére and eventually it passes in 1683 to the Princess de Conti. It was repurchase in 1723 by king Louis XV to house the duke of Bourbon, Grand Master of the House and stays until 1760 ,from which date it houses the municipal city hall or mayor’s office. It was enlarged in 1899. The Hôtel des Menus Plaisirs, 22 avenue de Paris, built for king Louis XV to house the menus pleasers or game materials and decoration shops to do parties and theatrical presentations.  It is here on May 5 1789 that the deputies were concocted to the Estates General or Etats Généraux; shortly after the deputies abandoned it to be in Paris on October 12, 1789. The room was destroyed in 1800 and the mansion became a police house in the 19C, and today too ! The Hôtel du Barry, 21 avenue de Paris, built in 1751 for Mr Binet, the first valet of the king, and sold by his ancestors to Madame du Barry in 1772, and resold after the death of Louis XV by the Count of Provence. It houses today the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Versailles/Yvelines. Also, the Chantiers train station to Paris-Montparnasse.

Of course, Versailles has other districts, but less known to visitors as not much of monuments, such as the districts of Glagny-Glatingny (monument to Pershing, American Gen of WWI), Bernard de Jussieu Petit Bois Picardie, and Porchefontaine ( RER C station, and near forest) with Satory as well. You can take it as a walk by district contacting the tourist office of Versailles or if need further help ask me. Hope you have a better understanding of the city, its more than a castle.  No matter how long I live in France, the architecture still manages to surprise me, and Versailles is tops on the list!

Now for some curiosities of the ever wonderful Versailles; more walks and more wonders, read on! Bear in mind most of these are not visited as they are today in private hands or government owned. The info shows the street location, period of construction and some info related to be protected as heritage property in France.  My walk in my beloved Versailles allowed seeing some and enjoying the history and architecture on all!

Former Queen Convent, currently Hoche High School, Avenue de Saint-Cloud , 73: The convent chapel, including the former choir of the nuns and the boarders; the two old sacristies and the two before-choirs. Former Hotel of the Superintendence of the Buildings of the King, then former minor seminary, then Vauban Barracks. Rue de l’Independence-Americaine,  9. Former Chapel of Bethune , Place Edouard-de-Laboulaye , 6 2nd half 18C. Buildings of the Stables, Avenue de Paris; Avenue du General-de-Gaulle, 3rd quarter 19C: Grand central portal of the Avenue de Paris; small gate of the Avenue du General-de-Gaulle; eagle gate of the Farrier’s Court. Across from Rive Gauche-Château RER C station.  Chapel of the Hermitage , rue de l’Hermitage 1, 18C.

Former Pavillon des Sources, rue Carnot, 11, 17-18C, facade on street and roof. Hôtel Reservoirs  rue des Reservoirs , 7, 9 ; 3rd quarter 18C. Filters Pavilion  Avenue des Etats Unis 51, 1st quarter 19C. Reservoirs of Picardy ,Avenue des Etats Unis,  18C. The pond, the remaining part of the old fence wall of the enclosure. Former stables of the Comtesse d’Artois ,Rue Maréchal Joffre, 29 18C, facade on the street and roofs. Fontaine des Quatre Pavés ,59 Rue Royale. Fountain on the Place Saint-Louis (square), 3rd quarter 18C.  Former Hotel of the Navy and Galleys , then Barracks of the Seals , Avenue de Sceaux 10, Facades on the avenue and roofs. Former Hôtel de Mademoiselle , Rue  Colbert 9, 2nd half 18C, Façades and roofs.

Hôtel du Gouvernement, dit Hôtel R or Government Hotel, aka Hotel R , Rue des Reservoirs 2, 4, 2nd half 17C; 4th quarter 18C, currently  Engineering dept. Gateway to the Military School of Engineering; Facade on the street and roofs of the barracks of the war offices (Ecole militaire du Génie). Former Hotel or Quarters of Noailles  or former barracks of the mister (Monsieur)  or former stables of the Madame Du Barry, Avenue de Paris 19, 3rd quarter 18C; Facades on the avenue and roof; Facades surrounding courtyards 1 and  2 and the corresponding roofs; Façades and roofs. Private mansion called La Colette house or Schonen hotel, Rue St. Louis, 20, 2nd quarter 18C. Former dairy of Madame Avenue de Paris 57. House Cassandre  Rue Albert-Joly  11, 1st half 20C, façades and roofs, as well as the stairwell.

House known as the Doctor Le-Monnier, doctor of the  King  Rue des Champs-Lagarde, 11bis,: 4th quarter 18C. Wall said of the Federated ,Avenue Guichard 28 ,  2nd half 19C, Wall and land delimited by a quarter circle with 50 meters radius, from the inside corner of the wall.  Pavilion of the grant King (Boulevard du roi) 30, 18th century. Entry tax (Octroi) Pavilion ,west pavilion of the Saint-Germain Gate,Boulevard du Roi 33, 18C.. Music Pavilion of the Madame,Avenue de Paris 61, 2nd half 18C; 1st half 19C. Police gate or Porte des Gendarmes or Pavillon des Gendarmes or former Hôtel des Gendarmes de la Garde , protection of the king guards, Avenue de Paris 6. The land bordering the watering trough of Louis XIV, Avenue de Sceaux , land limited to the north by the Hoche barracks, to the east by the reservoirs of the water service of Versailles and to the south by the property of Madame Picquois.  Villa Bomsel, Rue René-Aubert, 12, 1st quarter 20C, Façades and roofs. Villa Moricet  Place Alexander de Yugoslavie, 2, 18C. Large living room, sitting room, boudoir on the ground floor; facade and roof of the central part, garden side. Additional buildings/houses that have some part as preserve as national heritage of France in Versailles, I counted about 60 additional ones !!!

The official city of Versailles on its heritage/history: https://www.versailles.fr/ma-ville/

The official city of Versailles has a page on some less known sites: https://www.versailles.fr/ma-ville/decouvrir/histoire-de-versailles/versailles-meconnu/

There you go folks, again Versailles is unique worth a kingdom me think ! Hope you enjoy the walks and helps you discover these marvelous sites in your next walks of the city,

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!