Archive for November 7th, 2021

November 7, 2021

The fortified town of Moncontour!!

Here is a find finally!! I have passed by its lower road the D768 many times and never came into the town of Moncontour, until now. With so much to see, figure it was time for me to take a look at it up close and personal. Therefore, after lunch we took off for a tour of the unknown yet familiar territory. Moncontour is nice worth the detour indeed.

Moncontour is located in the Côtes-d’Armor department 22 in my lovely Bretagne region. It is part of the Petites Cités de Caractère (small towns of character) and the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France association (the most beautiful villages of France). The town is located 25 km from Saint-Brieuc, and 85 km from my home.

We walk the beat as usual for us, and indeed this is worth the detour. A nice medieval looking town with hilly streets and cobblestone, old buildings nicely kept with great architecture and history on them. We were glad to be here and been close to home we will be back. Let me tell you about the other things to see we like here

The castle ramparts (12-13C) were restored by Geoffroy Botterel II, count of Penthièvre, in 1137 Significant works are reported to have been carried out in the second half of the 14C under Charles de Blois, then under Olivier de Clisson, which made Moncontour one of the strongest places in Brittany. In 1492, Charles VIII ordered Gilles de Kermené, his governor, to have the walls repaired. The upper and lower doors, as well as their drawbridges, were repaired in 1694.

Moncontour castle ramparts walls of fortified city fr above nov21
Moncontour castle ramparts walls of fortified city by garden nov21

The old hotel of Kerjégu (now city hall) Its door and its fireplace, dating from the 17C, The former hotel Veillet-Dufrêche, The hotel was built at the request of Jean-Baptiste Veillet-Dufrêche who ran a large canvas sales counter, The set of two houses located rue du Docteur-Sagory. The smallest dates from the 17C and the largest, located on the corner, undoubtedly dates back to the 16C. The Hôtel de Clézieux, then owned by the wealthy merchant Latimier du Clésieux, Gen Lazare Hoche stayed there during his stay in Moncontour. in March 1795.(during the French revolution).

Moncontour city hall et tourist office old hôtel de Kerjegu nov21

The house where François de la Noue, the iron hand huguenot protestant died has a plaque at 1 rue de la Victoire. The story goes that king Henry IV sends him to Brittany to assist the Prince of Dombes, who fails to take the town of Lamballe. On July 16, 1591, they finally invest the city, but François de La Nouë is mortally wounded in the head during the assault. Transported to Moncontour for treatment, he died there on August 4, 1591. The anecdote on François de la Noue webpage: https://fr.anecdotrip.com/le-jour-ou-bras-de-fer-meurt-a-moncontour-par-vinaigrette

Moncontour rue de la victoire house of captain protestant François de La Noue, lieutenant d'Henri IV nov21

An 18C pedimented house located rue du Temple, La Tour Mognet and the remains of 15C ramparts. The Porte du Faubourg Saint-Jean, or Saint-Jean postern, which belonged to the city’s fortifications in the 14C.Take the time to admire the only still arched door despite the dismantling of the city around 1626.

Moncontour Poterne st jean street nov21

There is a nice small park at the tip overlooking the lower town, this is the Jardin de l’Europe Jean Monnet. A quiet place surrounded by wonderful peaceful houses of old. A great view over the valley and the lower town of Moncontour. A great spot our dog Rex really love !!! green at last he might have said lol!

Moncontour jardin de l'europe jean monnet by rue terse nov21

The Théatre du Costume , a museum retracing 1,000 years of costume history through a section on the Middle Ages (1 / 7th of the human scale) and a section ranging from Louis 12 to 1900 (1/3 of the human scale). These characters are put in a situation so as to give life to the various scenes.

Moncontour theatre du costume nov21

The Le Martray square with a few half-timbered houses stand around the square ,and the half-timbered house in Rue Charbonnerie, and its alleyway restored to its old form.

Moncontour pl du matray nov21

Moncontour rue charbonnerie nov21

The city of Moncontour on its heritagehttp://moncontour.bzh/les-histoires-de-la-cite/

The local Cap d’Erguy Val Andre tourist office on Moncontourhttps://www.capderquy-valandre.com/en/moncontour

There you go folks, another dandy in my lovely Bretagne. We like this fortified town of Moncontour, and surely will be back, there is a lot more to see and revisit those seen. A lovely step into another era with great architecture and history compact all around you. Hope you enjoy the post and do visit.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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November 7, 2021

The fortified town of Moncontour, and its church!!

Here is a find finally!! I have passed by its lower road the D768 many times and never came into the town of Moncontour, until now. With so much to see, figure it was time for me to take a look at it up close and personal. Therefore, after lunch we took off for a tour of the unknown yet familiar territory. Moncontour is nice worth the detour indeed.

Moncontour is located in the Côtes-d’Armor department 22 in my lovely Bretagne region. It is part of the Petites Cités de Caractère (small towns of character) and the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France association (the most beautiful villages of France). The town is located 25 km from Saint-Brieuc, and 85 km from my home.

The town of Moncontour was an important military place in the 12C, at that time Montcontour was a fortified town which allowed the lords to control the surroundings and to establish their authority , It was renowned for its church, dedicated to Saint Mathurin, which became the object of many pilgrimages from the 16C, In the 17-18C, a textile production of so-called “Brittany” fabrics developed in the Saint-Brieuc – Corlay – Pontivy – Moncontour quadrilateral; these paintings were exported to Spain and the Spanish colonies (they were called bretanas, quintines or pondivi) mainly via Cadiz, where French merchants were installed.

Moncontour pl de penthievre nov21

Things to see I like; will give the church on this post and will make up another for the rest of the town. The church was closed as it is often here for this road warrior will mean another trip when its open!

The Church Saint-Mathurin or the Church Notre-Dame and Saint-Mathurin (15-16C) was rebuilt in the 18C and restored between 1890 and 1902. It is located in the center of the city, place Penthièvre. Originally, the church was dedicated to Sainte-Anne. The cure of Notre-Dame was given in 1050 to the Saint-Sauveur abbey in Redon, then, later, to the Saint-Melaine abbey in Rennes. In the 15C, the church was a rectangular building with corner towers and a porch, which faced the market halls on Place Penthièvre. The current church of Moncontour bore, in 1408 and 1516, the title of Notre-Dame Church, but in 1546, it took that of Notre-Dame and Saint-Mathurin Church. The bell tower, located north of the choir, was rebuilt between 1584 and 1587.

Moncontour ch Saint Mathurin arriving nov21

The original nave was doubled by a south aisle around 1620. The belfry, covered with slates, surmounted by a dome, has pinnacles at the angles. Its lead cover dates from 1647. The vault of the choir was repaired in 1719 using stones taken from the Crouiche tower. The six windows were made between 1520 and 1540. The master window (1522-1531) is dedicated to the Childhood of Christ: it represents five episodes of Christ (the Visitation, the Nativity, the Flight into Egypt, the Massacre of the Innocents and the Presentation in the Temple). The stained-glass windows of Saint-Yves (1537), Sainte-Barbe (1538) and Saint-Jean-Baptiste (16C) occupy the windows of the north wall of the nave, those of Saint-Mathurin and the Tree of Jesse (16C) are located in the south aisle. The stained-glass window of Saint-Jean-Baptiste bears the arms of the Le Mintier (lords of the Granges), La Motte (lords of Vauclerc) and Milon families. All the stained glass windows were restored in 1588.

Moncontour ch Saint Mathurin belltower nov21

The organs and the tribune, date from 1580-1862. The pulpit dates from 1616. The portal dates from 1765. The side altarpieces of Saint-Mathurin and Sainte-Anne, restored in 1736, date from the 18C. The high altar, in polychrome marble, dates from 1768. The communion table, in wrought iron, dates from 1738. The pulpit from the 18C; the fonts and a font from the 16C; the wooden portal dated 1765, the silver bust of Saint Mathurin bought in 1805; finally some old statues of the Blessed Virgin (18C), Saint Anne, Saint Marguerite, Pieta (17C).

Moncontour ch Saint Mathurin front nov21

The local Cap d’erguy val andre tourist office on Moncontourhttps://www.capderquy-valandre.com/en/moncontour

The city of Moncontour and the churchhttps://moncontour.bzh/eglise-saint-mathurin/

There you go folks, another dandy pretty place to see in my lovely Bretagne. The fortified town of Moncontour is worth the visit and easy accessable on the road D768! Hope you enjoy this jewel and do walks its hilly cobblestone streets for another look at our world.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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November 7, 2021

The Bank of Spain in Madrid!

And I need to rush quickly to my beloved Madrid and to tell you about a symbol yet an off the beaten path place. As a child I lived not far from it in my Madrid and now each time need to pass by it and pay my reverence to this wonderful architectural gem.  I like to tell you a bit more on the Banco de Espana or Bank of Spain in Madrid. A bit of history and architecture I like.

The headquarters of the Bank of Spain shows its facades to the Plaza de Cibeles, Calle de Alcalá, Paseo del Prado, Calle de los Madrazo and Calle del Marqués de Cubas. The Bank of Spain, as an institution, was created in 1856, following the merger of the Banco de Isabel II with the Banco de San Fernando in 1847, and its first headquarters was the building of the Five Major Guilds (cinco Gremios Mayores), located on Calle de Atocha. On July 4  1884, the first stone of the Bank was placed, in a solemn act, with the presence of King Alfonso XII. The finished building will be inaugurated on March 3, 1891 by King Alfonso XIII and his mother Queen Regent Maria Cristina.

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The building  is distributed in parallel bays to a series of patios aligned with the axes of Paseo del Prado and Calle de Alcalá, articulated by diagonal sections. The facades reflect an eclectic decorative repertoire, In the year 1927 the construction of the later half of the facade to Calle de Alcalá was approved, demolishing the palace mansions known as Santamarca. Finally, the closing of the block was completed from 2003 to 2006. At the corner of Calle de Alcalá with Marqués de Cubas where the Palacio de Lorite was located, the former headquarters of the García-Calamarte Bank building was added. You can see the most notable elements such as the stained-glass windows, as well as the stonework, in classicist style, as well as its golden dome that culminates in the façade that opens onto Plaza de Cibeles. A symbol of Madrid and my gearing point each time going home in my beloved Madrid of the 1970’s. A must stop now when lucky to visited every year.

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As posted a new event and decided to update this one as they go together (see some news from Spain post). This is wonderful news as now all can see part of it that was before only by the lucky few. The Bank of Spain, its splendid collection, made up of more than 5,300 works (paintings, sculptures , drawings, photographs, prints and pieces of decorative arts), divided into two sets: the historical part (20%) and the contemporary (80%). , A collection that has Francisco de Goya as its standard. A treasure that in the almost 240 years of the institution’s history, only bank workers and those who attended guided tours have been able to enjoy (yes!!). The opening sequence will be ; first, in the middle of the pandemic, the raison d’être, in three volumes, of the collection of paintings, drawings and sculptures of the Bank of Spain, with 1,200 works. Later those of engraving and decorative arts will be undertaken. A heritage web portal was also launched. And now open to the public, which was inaugurated by the King. It will be free to access, although for now you have to reserve tickets ‘online’.

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As you know,if reading my blog, that I lived at Calle de Alcalà in Madrid and the bank at the corner of institutions such as Prado, Thyssen and Cibeles fountain/square and the Retiro park are a must while in Madrid. I am again lucky to be able to see these gems every year and sometimes more. Enjoy it as I do.

Some webpages to help you plan your visit are:

The official Bank of Spain webpage : https://www.bde.es/bde/es/secciones/sobreelbanco/organizacion/Organizacion_ter/Madrid.html

The Madrid tourist office on the bank of Spain: https://www.esmadrid.com/en/tourist-information/banco-de-espana

The new open Bank of Spain arts collection webpage: https://coleccion.bde.es/wca/es/secciones/coleccion/

And there you have it folks, another gem and because it is a bank, an off the beaten path lovely architecture of my Madrid.  Bear in mind that the inside of the building may only be visited by university and educational groups, or by cultural non-profit organisations. However, as above the new Sala Chaflàn will be open for the collection to be seen by all!! Do not missed it if in Madrid, worth the detour indeed,

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

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