Archive for October 2nd, 2021

October 2, 2021

Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres!!!

And the grand daddy of cathedrals in the sense of the loire valley and history of France; this is my return visit to the Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres or Cathédrale Notre Dame de Chartres! I have written on it before but these are new pictures and text of my latest visit to it; hope you enjoy it as I.

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I was here way back coming from my former home in Versailles and then a few more trips even with the Friends of the Palace of Versailles to visit its treasures of the basement. Then, moved to Bretagne and the visits stop. After several years, decided to take a nostalgic trip with my boys, Dad, and dog Rex to it.  Text is limited to new information gathered as the history is already in the other post. There is so much to see in my belle France, sometime you need to skip some to see others.

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The city of Chartres is in dept 28 of Eure et Loir in the Centre Val de Loire region. It is about 125 km from my current town.  Who would have thought in 876,this monument to mankind will have so much an impact on the history of France and Europe at least. It was King Charles the Bald, Charlemagne’s grandson who donated the holy relic known as the “Veil of the Virgin” or “Holy Tunic” to the cathedral. This event makes Chartres a leading sanctuary.

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From the ground ,whose dark slabs will make you guess the course of the labyrinth, to the ceiling ;passing secretly through the Roman crypt in the basement , and the towers , the Chartres Cathedral bends over backwards to give you baba! Take the time to admire the colors of the 2,500 m² of stained-glass windows and the famous blue of Chartres.  Did you know that in Chartres too, they have a “Mona Lisa”? It goes without saying that this is not the one on display at the Louvre, but Notre Dame de la Belle Verrière which is one of the most famous stained glass windows in the world!

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My best spots for seeing the Cathedral at its best are:
From the Pont Bouju bridge and the rue de la porte Guillaume, to capture the medieval atmosphere of the old town.  From the rue des Changes, despite the animation all around in the shopping streets, see the Cathedral rise as you go. as we get closer remains a striking sight! From the retreat of the forecourt , this is classic that we never tire of! From rue Saint-Eman, take the stairs for a romantic view of the bell towers and From rue de la Foulerie, a more discreet view of the Cathedral but with the picturesque side of the old town and its washhouses. All sublime!

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Some briefs to add to the historical post of the Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres!

The Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres is served, which is not frequent, by three portals leading to the north, south and west. The oldest is the west portal, also called the royal portal taken from the old cathedral. It was spared from the flames in 1194. Inside , at the highest point, the vaults reach 37 meters in height, which will represent for a few years a record height.  The bell towers of Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres are one of the specific features of it. They are 114 meters high for the north bell tower and 103 meters for the south bell tower, these two majestic towers frame the western portal.

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The Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres has 172 stained glass windows that cover an area of ​​over 2600 m2. Gothic, most of them were made from 1205 to 1240. Some even date from the 12C, a rare heritage from the past which has survived the vagaries of time and fashions. Thus, in the 18C, the canons replaced certain bays in the choir with white windows in order to let more light pass. In the 20C, in order to preserve them from world wars, they were completely dismantled and stored before returning to their original place. Despite certain modifications, this set appears to be one of the most complete of the medieval period. They represent biblical scenes, faithful to the idea that the cathedral is a Bible of images, but also the donors who made it possible.

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Chartres Cat ND staine glass west facade interior sep21

The labyrinth in Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres is the only circular one to have been preserved in a cathedral. its diameter is nearly 12 meters. Eleven concentric bands will lead the pilgrim on his knees six times to the center of the labyrinth, then away from him before he reaches the central slab. Initially, this slab was a bronze plaque on which was represented Theseus and the Minotaur, it would have disappeared during the requisitions of metal in 1793. The outer edge of the labyrinth is decorated with 113 battlements, which give it the air of a toothed wheel. This labyrinth, whose diameter is equivalent to one tenth of the interior length of the cathedral, takes place at a particular place in the cathedral. Located between the third and fourth bay of the nave, its entrance corresponds to the entrance to Fulbert Cathedral. In addition, the rose on the western facade is perfectly superimposed on its center. the usefulness of labyrinths in cathedrals is intriguing. However the names which have been attributed to that of Chartres allow some interpretations. Known as the “way to Jerusalem” or as the “league”, the labyrinth would have been used as a substitute for pilgrimage, so long to cover on one’s knees that it gave the impression of extending over a league.

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Chartres Cat ND stained glass sides sep21

The sculpture takes a major dimension in Notre Dame Cathedralof Chartres since the whole of the statuary counts nearly 6000 statues Thus the sculptures of the western portal, the Royal Portal, date from the years 1145-1150 and are located just at the hinge between the Romanesque and the Gothic . The south and north portals are fully Gothic since they were made between 1205 and 1215 for one, and 1210 and 1225 for the other by a group of sculptors, mostly anonymous.

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The Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres appears as an alternative to Reims under royalty; it solves the problem of the coronation of Henri IV. He is therefore enthroned king of France on February 27, 1594 in the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Chartres. This coronation allows Henry IV to establish his authority in the kingdom of France and to work for the protection of the Protestant minority by ratifying the Edict of Nantes on April 30, 1598.

The Notre-Dame Cathedral of Chartres was vandalized in 1793 (during the French revolution). The damage was material: all the metal in the cathedral, including the bells, was melted down to be used for arming the army. They are also artistic: the black Madonna of the crypt, Notre-Dame-de-sous-Terre, is burnt. Other cathedral treasures suffer a similar fate. The cedar wood shrine plated with gold and covered with precious stones which contained the relic is forced. The rich ornament disappears as the relic itself is shared among the Revolutionary Commissioners. However, part of it was returned to the cathedral during the Restoration.

On June 4, 1836, an accidental fire broke out in the Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres, and destroyed the entire wooden and lead roof. The frame, so complex that it was nicknamed “the forest”, is replaced by iron and the lead cover by copper plates. These, in contact with the air, will oxidize to give the roof this characteristic green color.  Despite the vagaries of history, Notre Dame Cathedral remains one of the best-preserved Gothic cathedrals. It also obtains to be the first monument classified as World Heritage by Unesco in 1979!

The Notre Dame Cathedral of Chartres and the arts, my favorites!

Charles Péguy, The Tapestry of Notre Dame, Paris, Cahiers de la Quinzaine, coll. “Cahiers de la Quinzaine / 14th series” (no 10), 1913, 103 p. And Charles Péguy in his collection “the Tapestry of Notre-Dame” writes the long poem Presentation of Beauce to Notre-Dame de Chartres.  One of the best-known paintings is La Cathédrale de Chartres by Jean-Baptiste Camille Corot, painted in 1830 (now in Louvre museum, Paris).

Some webpages to help you plan your trip and is a must are:

The official Notre Dame de Chartres webpage: https://www.cathedrale-chartres.org/en/cathedrale/

The city of Chartres on the cathedralhttps://www.chartres.fr/patrimoine-historique/notre-dame-de-chartres/

The Chartres tourist office on the cathedral: https://www.chartres-tourisme.com/en/do-not-miss/the-chartres-cathedral/history-of-chartres-cathedral

And if I have not convince you to come here at least once in your lifetime, maybe the Chartres tourist office will:why see Chartres’cathedral?:https://www.chartres-tourisme.com/en/do-not-miss/the-chartres-cathedral/why-chartres

The Notre Dame Cathedral alone is worth the visit to Chartres, but there is more if you read my other posts. Enjoy the reading of a nice town and beautiful cathedral of France and Europe.

 And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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October 2, 2021

Some news from Spain CXI

And now is time to tell you about my bulletin news series, some news from Spain. We have many things opening up and time to plan ahead, me for Madrid and the Santiago Bernabeu!! We need each other to help bring the economy and travel back to its feet. I will do my part ; hope you too. Let me tell you the latest of my chosen news from my beloved Spain. Hope you enjoy it as I.

The centenary of the death of Emilia Pardo Bazán, Countess of Bazán Brun, also known as Emilia, Countess of Pardo Bazán ,Woman of letters of extreme fertility, she wrote forty-one novels, seven dramas, two cookbooks, more than five hundred and eighty tales and hundreds of essays, In 1906 she nevertheless became the first woman to chair the Literature Section of the Athenaeum in Madrid and the first to hold a chair of neo-Latin literatures at the Central University of Madrid, reminds us that the city of A Coruña, as well as its province, has been the cradle of some of the most outstanding women in the history of Spain over the centuries. In addition to the writer, journalist and countess, a brief memory of María Pita is enough, defender of the city besieged in 1589 by the English fleet of the privateer Francis Drake. To Isabel Zendal (born in 1773 and died at the beginning of the 19C somewhere in the Viceroyalty of New Spain(vast area from Central America so sw USA), considered by the WHO as the first nurse in history on an international mission for her work in the expedition that carried the vaccine from smallpox to the New World, and of whom there is a statue in Calle Victoria Fernández España in A Coruña. To Juana de Vega , widow of the insurgent liberal general Espoz y Mina, nursemaid and waitress of the future Queen Elizabeth II, progressive political-social activist and author of two extraordinary memoir books, an unusual genre at that time. Or Concepción Arenal, jurist, writer, pioneer of social work, fighter against the deplorable state of Spanish prisons and defender, perhaps one of the first in Europe, of the new role that women should have. Also Rosalía de Castro , the greatest poet, both in Galician and in Castilian, of our Romanticism, comparable to any other European poet of her time. O Sofía Casanova (1861-1958), journalist and writer immersed in all the great and serious international conflicts of her time, which she masterfully narrated. María Barbeito Cerviño, a great teacher educator, writer and linguist, introducer of the principles of Montessori and those of Ovide Decroly and promoter of the compulsory and gratuitous nature of teaching.

The story of the Prado continues….(see post). At the other end of the Villanueva building, the first built to house the Royal Museum of Painting and Sculpture, the precursor of the Prado. It shows how it came into the world; from its origin, the space it occupies today was literally a meadow outside the city to what it will be in the future with the expansion proposed by the new project from architects. In the rooms formerly occupied by the Tesoro del Delfin or Treasure of the Dolphin, the Prado now explains itself in the metamuseum converts the temporary exhibition organized to celebrate its bicentennial, Museo del Prado 1819-2019. A place of memory. In another part of its permanent collection to show its evolution as a living being: photographs, documents, clothing, models, furniture … History of the Prado Museum and its buildings brings together 265 pieces to humanize, from nudity, to the emperor of painting museums in Europe.

The one known as the Salon del Prado or Prado Hall in the time of king Carlos III, today Paseo del Prado, was a place to see and be seen. A space for a walk in the lots attached to the monastery of San Jerónimo, where the Madrileñas (local female folks) wore the latest French fashions, rich dresses with brightly colored fabrics, and the Madrileños (local male folks) followed the tradition of capes and tricorns. The Buen Retiro Palace already existed of which today the Casón del Buen Retiro and the Salón de Reinos are preserved, which are also part of the museum. The urban planning of streets such as Atocha (no. 25) or Plaza de Antón Martín (no. 3) have hardly changed in two and a half centuries!

The year 2019 marked another milestone in the history of the Prado Museum when it turned 200 years old, received more than three million visits (its record) and won the Princess of Asturias Award for Communication and Humanities at a time when communication is precisely a challenge for museums. The Prado was only closed for three months and since last June 6 it remains open, showing that it is a safe place if anti-virus security measures are maintained. Good news!!!! After six years of waiting, the Council of Ministers approved this past Tuesday 28 September 2021, the credit line of 36 million euros for the expansion of the Prado Museum through the rehabilitation and museum adaptation of the Salón de Reinos. The building to be transformed was the headquarters of the Museo del Ejército or Army Museum and is located next to the Casón del Buen Retiro, in the vicinity of the Prado. They are the last remaining vestiges of the Royal Palace of Buen Retiro, a complex erected between 1633 and 1639 under the reign of king Felipe IV. The urban reorganization of the project, called Campus Prado, will connect the Prado and the Salón de Reinos, facilitating transit on foot by the visitors through Calle Felipe IV and joining in the same complex the buildings of Villanueva, the Jerónimos, the Casón del Buen Retiro and the Salón de Reinos. The expansion works will gain 2,500 square meters of exhibition space for the gallery. The current appearance of the façade of the Army Museum, which was intervened in the late 19C and early 20C, will be modified, as will the roof, which will also be renovated. The purpose that was raised when the project was announced is to present long-term transversal and temporary exhibitions, mainly from the Prado collection (it has more than 27,000 pieces, of which more than 7,800 are paintings), most of which are stored in warehouses. And you will see more of the gems stored there!!! More on Campus Prado in Spanish: https://www.museodelprado.es/recurso/el-campus-prado/68258c17-7f90-4da2-a217-039bd021aabd

Walid Raad’s exhibition is not an exhibition… Several voices run through Cotton Under my Feet, the exhibition that takes him to Madrid these days. Commissioned by TBA21 and conceived for the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza,(see post) it presents the work that the artist carried out during three years of research on the collection, archives and the genesis of the museum. Although this is not the first time that Raad has worked in Madrid. In 2009, within the framework of PhotoEspaña, he occupied the Museo Reina Sofía (see post) under his preferred pseudonym, The Atlas Group , a project on the contemporary history of Lebanon. There he was born in 1967, in Chbaniyeh, a few kilometers from Beirut, although he studied art in the United States. Today he is a professor at Cooper Union, in the East Village of New York, one of the most prestigious universities in the country. See it ‘Walid Raad: Cotton Under my Feet’. Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. From October 5 to January 23, 2022. webpage: https://www.museothyssen.org/en/exhibitions/walid-raad-cotton-under-my-feet

One of my most memorable areas of my beloved Spain, and yes you can drink good Madrid wines!!

A good time to take a tour from winery to winery through Colmenar de Oreja, (see posts) the still unknown wine capital of the Comunidad de Madrid. Its centenary caves hide thousands and thousands of whites, reds and even sparkling wines underground. We are at the Bodega Jesús Díaz e Hijos, in the center of Colmenar de Oreja, the wine capital of the Las Vegas region, an hour from Madrid, where these days the winegrowers rush the harvest. 17 of these pot-bellied 5,000-liter jars where wine is made and preserved. The winery smells of must and history founded in 1898 but before it was a convent of friars and a piece of jars, the place where they were made by hand before being taken to the oven for cooking. This was also the first winery of the D.O. Wines of Madrid. Not only the grape changes here, by the way, the malvar variety wins, the most cultivated. Once we adjust our eyes, the caves that make this land so unique suddenly appear. Dug into the ground, they turn Colmenar de Oreja into an underground Gruyère cheese, full of wine. We descend twelve meters between oak barrels and bottles in rhyme of sparkling wines, the traditional champagne. This is the first sparkling wine that was made in Madrid!!

Los Tinajones to stay, a charming rural house that opened its doors last spring. Completely restored, the accommodation was also an old winery with caves included that they hope to turn into a spa soon. The name of Los Tinajones was not random. He has borrowed it from one of the paintings by Ulpiano Checa, the great 19C painter and native of the town. The museum houses the largest collection that exists of the master, and is a must-see in the town. Even more so now, that it has just incorporated important pieces, among them those donated by Baroness Thyssen from her personal collection this summer.

You have to go to Bodegas Peral, another member of the Madrid Wine Route, which also has a cave dating back to 1882 worth seeing. covered by a guide, with or without a tasting and cover. Its bicentennial entrails collide with the modernity of the facilities as a chill out where the wine tastes of glory. Therefore, it can only be done in Madrid and consists of fermenting 50 percent of the white skins and the seed in the must. And not only that, because it is not racked and macerated with its lees and these skins until bottling. The result is a white with a red soul.

One minute you have to walk to the Bodega Pedro García. Many know its wines without knowing that they come from here because they are the ones Iberia serves in the cabin. Founded in 1931, it has the highest production in the area. We have already learned that there is no winery without a cave here. These date back several centuries and are also accessible. On the way to the Plaza Mayor we recognize that lavish limestone of the Church of Santa María la Mayor. (see post). There is always atmosphere in this porticoed Castilian square built on a ravine in the 17C. What’s more, you can also walk under the arch of the Puente de Zacatín bridge. Also, the artisan cheese factory Ciriaco. Their recipe is simple: freshly milked sheep’s milk, rennet and salt. The secret of his cured: seven months in the cave under our feet!

The ruta de vinos de Madrid with info on bodegas, cheesemakers, resto museums along the route of wines of Madrid : https://madridenoturismo.org/descubre-las-bodegas-de-madrid/?zona=4&tipo_plan=-1&tipo_actividad=-1

The official wine routes of Spain on the Arganda/Colmenar de Oreja region of Madrid : https://wineroutesofspain.com/rv-madrid/#pll_switcher

And you may have heard in the news, there is a big volcano eruption in the island of La Palma, part of the Canaries islands. It has been huge, and lots of destruction already and some permanent. Sadly, these islands are all volcanos and many in them. As well as ironically, been one of the tourist attractions of them!

La Palma has registered in the last hours a dozen small earthquakes in the south of the island, according to the report published this Saturday (today) by the Department of National Security of Spain. The Cumbre Vieja volcano, which continues its activity, is estimated to have expelled more than 80 million cubic meters of lava, double that of the Teneguía eruption in 1971, in half the time. The magma delta formed on the coast has a surface area of ​​more than 27 hectares and the new flow, generated by the two magmatic mouths opened on Friday night to the northeast of the main cone, advances towards the trace of the main flow, which flows stably. The ash expelled by the new La Palma volcano since its eruption began on September 19 has covered an area of ​​3,304 hectares. This is stated in the latest update of the European Copernicus terrestrial monitoring satellite system with data collected this Friday afternoon. Regarding the buildings affected by the runoffs, the calculation of 1,005 is maintained, although those that have been completely destroyed rise to 880, ten more compared to the previous count. The number of kilometers of roads affected increases to 30.7, of which 28.3 have been destroyed by the passage of lava.

The Canary Islands are on the African continental plate, which ‘floats’ on the earth’s mantle in an easterly direction at a speed similar to that of the growth of fingernails. About 20 million years ago, the plate began to pass over the ‘hot spot’, which injected magma and began to create the first islands: Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. La Palma and El Hierro are the youngest islands, barely 1.8 and 1.2 million years old respectively. The hot spot is still under them and that is why they have active volcanoes that make them grow in extension and surface. Nicer pictures and news on a specialise Volcano Discovery webpage: https://www.volcanodiscovery.com/lapalma/sep2021seismic-crisis/current-activity.html

And speaking of volcanos ,they are in the peninsula as well most in the Autonomous Community of Castilla La Mancha region:

Campo de Calatrava, south of Ciudad Real, has numerous volcanoes over 2.5 million years old, one of the most important manifestations in Europe. In the middle of La Mancha, in the territory of Entreparques, located in the province of Ciudad Real, between the Cabañeros National Parks and the Tablas de Daimiel, is one of the most important volcanic areas in Spain and Europe. With an area of ​​about 5,000 km2, the Campo de Calatrava region is home to about 300 of these natural manifestations whose origin dates back 2.5 million years on the outskirts of the town of Poblete next to the hermitage of San Isidro, you will find the Mirador de los Maares, from the height of the Volcán Cabezo del Rey, from where you can see a large number of craters, holes, hills and castles. The open wooden facility houses the Volcanological Interpretation Center, which has panels and digital resources for augmented reality with complete and varied information on the volcanic activity in the area.

Volcàan and Laguna de Peñarroya is about 20 km from Poblete, between the towns of Alcolea de Calatrava and Corral de Calatrava, where they are located. The volcano is an almost perfect cone of 60 meters high, one of the best examples of Strombolian-type building, and one of the highest in this volcanic region, whose slopes are populated by forests of holm oaks, kermes oak, juniper, broom and Mediterranean scrub. The lagoon (or maar), whose origin is due to a hydromagmatic eruptive event, was formed when the lava from the volcano captured the Lobo stream and reaches more than 1 km in diameter, which favors biodiversity in the flora and fauna when it is filled of water. On the outskirts of Porzuna, about 40 km north of Alcolea de Calatrava (and very close to the Cabañeros National Park), Cerro de los Santos, the volcano born from a single eruption is formed by a large dome raised over the plain . Today, you can still see the black and reddish slags from the lava flows on its slopes. At the top is the hermitage of San Isidro. The place is also known for being one of the points where the Celtiberians settled.

Las Navas de Malagón, at the foot of the Sierra de Malagón, next to the town of the same name. It is a protected natural space, declared a Natural Reserve, made up of three lagoons: La Nava Grande, Nava de Enmedio and Nava Chica. The Nava Grande stands out especially, for its larger size, for the greater permanence of its waters and for presenting a ring of volcanic tuffs around it. In addition to doing this route by car and walking along its many trails, there is the possibility of seeing the entire volcanic region from the air through balloon rides. The company Vuela en Globo organizes the experience. A battle between volcanoes, a trip that leaves the town of Poblete to enjoy the region from the heights and discover, in addition to the history of the volcanoes, the battlefield that was the scene of fights fierce during the Reconquest, in the 12C. In the distance, you can see the Castillo de Alarcos, the bastion of Alfonso VIII in 1195 that he lost in the Battle of Alarcos against the Al-Mansur Almohad army. The Vuela en Globo webpage for info: https://vuelaenglobo.es/la-mancha/poblete-alarcos-una-batalla-entre-volcanes/

There you go folks, another dandy news from Spain, coming right at you by yours truly! Hope you enjoy the reading and take it as tips for future travels, in my beloved Spain.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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October 2, 2021

Curiosities of Chartres!!

And I was back to the venerable Chartres! Many years long ago we used to come here a lot from our home in Versailles;then we stop. Several years went by and I decided to make it a run again as a memorable trip without my dear late wife Martine. There is so much here will take several posts indeed. 

I will spare the history as plenty in my other posts on Chartres and will tell you about some monuments that we passed by and enjoy it. See the post on the must here,the Cathedral next. Hope you enjoy as we!

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The first thing we did was find parking at the parking Cathédrale, great all middle of the day for 4,50€!  352 spaces open 7/7 at the Place Châtelet very easy parking we paid 4,50 euros for the day including lunch time. Q-Park network on the parking: https://www.q-park.fr/en-gb/cities/chartres/cathedrale/

Chartres parking cathedrale to Cat ND sep21

And then, we walked under a light rain to our memorable eating place still there!! Créperie des 3 Lys by Porte Guillaume! This is Breton specialties of course; still nice welcome and great food!  Its half-timbering and beams undoubtedly give it character; the decoration and the subdued lights take care of the rest … A warm welcome and great food this time I had the galette porte guillaume and the banana split with the first a bottle of Kerisac cider brut and with the later a Kerisac cider doux ! There are new owners but the food and service stayed the same; we will be back.  webpage: https://www.creperie-chartres.com  

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The Porte Guillaume is an old gate destroyed by the retreating Nazis army during the night of August 15 to 16, 1944. The first Porte Guillaume was built at the end of the 12C; it is then one of the gates of the enclosure surrounding the city of Chartres. It bears the name of Guillaume de Ferrières, vidame de Chartres; the gate was rebuilt at the beginning of the 15C, probably in 1414-1415. Around the middle of the 15C, a barbican was built; it is pentagonal in shape with access from the south. Access is off-center to avoid direct fire on the door. A dormant bridge allows entry into the barbacan. To the north, two archers with splayed under the vault flank the ditch. We came by here to eat at the above resto! sublime. Right crossing the eure river we see the canals between the houses in this part of old Chartres! 

chartres porte Guillaume sep21

Chartres l'eure river by porte guillaume sep21

The monument aux morts or Monument to the dead by the cathedral parking garage. This monument is dedicated to the memory of the children of Eure-et-Loir who died during the war of 1870-71. It was erected at the Esplanade de la Resistance in 1901.  It is made up of a 10-meter-high stone arch from Evville (Lorraine) behind a 12-meter-wide rounded basin fed by 2 lion’s heads.  Under the arch, a bronze sculpture depicts the French Republic with a wounded soldier at its feet threatening the enemy. The monument is framed on the left by the statue of an artilleryman and on the right by that of an infantryman. The escutcheon on the pediment shows the coats of arms of four sub-prefectures of the department: Chartres, Châteaudun, Dreux and Nogent le Rotrou. I have instead the memorial to Gen Patton 3rd army in WWII.

Chartres chemin de memoire Gen Patton 3rd army 7th armor div liberated sep21

We then , car protected and well fed went our walking ways in town. The first stop, the Musée des Beaux-Arts or Fine Arts museum at 29 rue Cloître Notre Dame, the main museum in the city. Located in the former episcopal palace, next to the cathedral.  This beautiful set of buildings the former episcopal palace, from the 15C, 17C, and 18C. However, it is at least since the 12C that the bishops of Chartres have resided on this site.  Through the reception rooms and noble spaces such as the vestibule, the Italian-style room and the chapel, you will discover collections of paintings, sculptures, works of art and ethnographic objects covering a period ranging from 13C to the 20C. In 1792, the episcopal palace became nationalise. Under the French revolution, the premises were assigned to the central administration of the department of Eure-et-Loir between 1794 and 1804. The prefecture was then installed there between 1804 and 1817. On the occasion of Napoleon I’s visit and his wife Marie-Louise in June 1811, decoration work was carried out in the garden wing. On November 8, 1821, Monsignor de Latil took possession of his seat while the Prefecture still occupied the palace.  The law of Separation of Church and State of 1905 made the episcopal palace a departmental property.  A lease affects its use for the city of Chartres for 99 years. At that time, the idea of ​​turning it into a museum already existed, but this project having been confirmed only on the eve of  WWII, the museum only opened its doors to the public in 1948.

The city of Chartres on the museumhttps://www.chartres.fr/musee-beaux-arts/horaires-et-animations/

The private Friends of the Museum webpage: https://www.amismuseechartres.fr/

Chartres mus des beaux arts front sep21

The Place de la Poissonnerie is a characteristic architectural example of the Maison du Saumon  at 10, 12, 14 place de la Poissonnerie. The Maison du Saumon was inhabited by Catherine Maubuisson, lady of Borville who was at the head of an important import and export business. Besides the salmon, the facade features an Annunciation and Saint Michael slaying the dragon. Built from the beginning of the 16C, having undergone important transformations thereafter, in particular inside. With two corbels at the level of the two floors, the facade is built in half-timbered sections filled with a filling of small limestone and earth mortar elements. The Half-timbered house, it is so called for the carved wooden salmon on its facade. In the old days, the town’s fish market was held in the small square. A stone’s throw from the Cathedral, this building, now houses the Chartres tourist office. 

Chartres maison du saumon et tourist ofc sep21

Halles aux Legumes or covered market by the corners of  rue des changes and place Billard at the spot of the old Château de Chartres sold at the French revolution and completely demolished between 1800 and 1817. This Baltard-style hall was built in 1898 to meet the demand of market gardeners from Chartres ,a covered place for their businesses since 1835! Since then, a vegetable market has been held there every Saturday morning, the rest of the week it is a parking lot. The city of  Chartres on its markets: https://www.chartres-tourisme.com/en/live-the-city/shopping/markets-and-cueillettes

Chartres halle covered market pipo et boys sep21

chartres halle pl billard sep21

Prieuré Saint Vincent or Priory at 12 Rue de la Porte Cendreuse .The Saint-Vincent priory gives carte blanche to all contemporary expressions (photographs, painting, sculpture, street art, etc.). It receives at least four artists each season. The city of Chartres on Le chemin des arts or ways of arts , contemporary that is. webpage: https://www.chartres.fr/chemin-des-arts/

chartres prieure St Vincent front sep21

The Hôtel des Postes was done by a decision taken in 1919, next to the Place des Épars. This building which broke, at the time, with the habits of the population, is today the Apostrophe media library. Located between two high places of the city, the Place Châtelet with its triumphal arch in memory of the children of Eure-et-Loir who died for the homeland (see above), and the Place des Épars with the statue of Marceau, the new hotel des Postes is presented as a centerpiece of town planning in Chartres. The city of Chartres mediathéque on the hotel/library history: https://mediatheque.chartres.fr/default/historique-du-batiment.aspx

Chartres hotel des postes 1 bd maurice viollette sep21

And last but not least, the quant petit train or little train of Chartres. We prefer to walk, but this is a good alternative for an overall first visit to Chartres and if tired…. The little train which leaves and arrives at the Cathedral will take you to the banks of the Eure and to the old town. Half an hour of relaxing tourism for all. In summer, it also runs at nightfall for a Chartres en lumière or lights of Chartres route. webpage: http://www.lepetittraindechartres.fr/

Chartres petit train by cat ND sep21

For more info, the city of Chartres on its heritage/history: https://www.chartres.fr/patrimoine/

The Chartres tourist office on things to see: https://www.chartres-tourisme.com/en/explore/tours-and-visits

There you go folks, a wonderful re visit to a great town of my belle France, Chartres! There is more to take you several days here me think, we will be back sooner! For now enjoy Chartres as we did!!

And remember, happy travels, good health , and many cheers to all!!!

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