Archive for September 7th, 2021

September 7, 2021

St Stephen’s Cathedral of Metz!!!

And I have gone East and find treasures galore of my belle France. We even been here at Christmas time in one of the best markets of France and less known than others. I would like to tell you about the Cathédrale Saint Etienne de Metz or St Stephen’s Cathedral of Metz.   Metz in the department of the Moselle no 57 ,region of the Grand Est. . If its construction spans three centuries, from 1240, the Cathedral presents a beautiful homogeneity of style since the stylistic criteria were respected in each construction campaign. The Cathedral of Metz is not only the Cathedral of France having the largest stained glass surface, nearly 6 500 m2, but also the one that presents the largest Gothic glass windows in Europe ! It is colloquially dubbed the “lantern of the Good God”. Even though it is one of the ten most visited Cathedrals in France it does not have the recognition of many still. Its vault, which culminates 41 meters above the ground at the nave level, also makes the Cathedral of Saint Stephen of  Metz one of the highest cathedrals in France.




A bit of history (shorten) I like:

At the beginning of the 5C, Saint Etienne (Saint Stephen) was popular and was celebrated throughout the empire. The rise of the cult of the first martyr Stephen in the West follows the invention of relics of the Saint in Jerusalem  by 415. Old Gaulish city, Metz became the seat of a bishopric in the 3C; written around 576, a sanctuary dedicated to Étienne (Oratorium beati Stephani), which was at the present location of the Cathedral, was the only monument spared by the Huns during the sack of the city in  451. The Oratory of St. Stephen is in the Divine graces and then becomes very popular , we’re talking about miracles. It welcomes the seat of the bishop and becomes, in a way, the first Cathedral of Metz. It can be assumed that the sanctuary of St. Stephen was relatively recent during the sack of Metz by Attila the Hun.

As you can see the history is hugely long so will condense a bit to make it shorter nevertheless it is worth the reading me think, The new cathedral, or basilica because of its plan, was completed under Thierry II and consecrated by him in 1040 in the presence of Bishop Gérard I of Cambrai. The reconstruction of the  Cathedral begins around 1240 or probably as early as 1235. In the second half of the 14C, the daring construction of the vaults was 42 meters from the ground. The construction will be spread over three centuries to finish at 1525. The construction of the present Cathedral was perhaps desired by Bishop Conrad of Scharfenberg, and only the Ottonian nave was destroyed at that time, up to the level of the foundations, the bedside and the transept. From this first construction campaign date the lower parts of the walls of the nave and the bases of the arcade supports. This first construction campaign ends with the vaulting of the nave, between 1360 and 1380. The height of its vaults 42 meters, places the Cathedral of Metz ,3rd of all cathedrals of France!

Undertaken in 1762, the layout of the Place d’Armes, the Place de Chambre and the Place du Marché exudes the medieval urban fabric on three sides around the Cathedral. The building of the town hall, side Place d’Armes, and the palace of the Bishops of Metz (today, the covered market), side place du Marché and  Place de Chambre contributes to constitute an architectural ensemble dominated by the work of the Masons of the Middle Ages. On this occasion, and in the interests of harmonization of this urban ensemble, it was  built on the three sides of the Cathedral thus cleared, a classicists envelope and in particular, a sober and majestic main portal (side Place du Marché. The last additions whose style disagrees with the romantic ideal of the time, are destroyed in 1898, to make way for a portal of Gothic style inaugurated in 1903 by the Emperor William II (Germany);  from 1908 to 1919 the interior of the cathedral was restored and furnished.

Something unique from my dear late wife Martine, town of Meaux (77), the Eagle of Meaux was here too. In 1642, Jacques-Benign Bossuet became, at the age of thirteen, canon of the Cathedral thanks to the interpersonal skills of his father, magistrate of the city. It was in the Cathedral of Metz in 1652, that he pronounced his first sermon. It is still in Metz, without any certainty that he was pronounced in the Cathedral, which he gives, in 1655, his first funeral eulogy for Yolande de Monterby, Abbess of Petit Clairvaux in Metz. In 1657, he preached a panegyric of St. Teresa, before Queen Anne of Austria, after which he was appointed an extraordinary adviser and preacher of the king Louis XIV. From there he split his time between Metz and the court, in Paris and Versailles.

A bit on the construction style:

The Cathedral of Metz has the peculiarity of not having a harmonious façade  in the manner of the other great Gothic cathedrals of France. It is thanks to this singular façade that was possible the realization of the large canopy. So the cathedral has only one gate on its main façade. The first three bays of the nave of the cathedral are those of Notre-Dame-la-Ronde whose axis is perpendicular to that of Saint-Étienne and the attentive visitor will note, according to Gothic architectural canons, the main portal of this church, its apse and its high altar of the second span, while the first and third spans serve as aisles to this curious old configuration in the former church (ND Ronde). The other church, included the rest of the surface of the Cathedral, its choir and transept had been preserved until 1440, its nave had been destroyed at the beginning of the construction of the Cathedral in the 13C. You can still admire the crypt of the Ottonian church, under the Cathedral choir. The tower of the Mutte which served as a municipal belfry rises to  80 meters in height, the top of the arrow reaching 93 meters.


In 1412, it was decided to install a bell, on the south tower of the Cathedral, then under construction. The bell named the Mutte as per the Tour de Mutte weighs 11 tons and measures 2.32 meters in diameter. Finally, the last overhaul took place in 1605. The Mutte only sounded in the event of enemy attacks, fires, very big festivals. It rang on the fly for the last time in 1918 during the victory of the French in WWI. However, a work campaign between 2009 and 2015 enabled the Belfry and the bell to be rehabilitated and it could ring again on the fly since 26 June 2015.

The Tour du Châpitre or tower of the chapter, located opposite the Mutte tower, rises to 69 meters just above the Saint-Étienne gate. Unlike the Mutte tower, it does not have an arrow. The lower part was built in the 13C and the upper part from 1840 to 1843. A monumental crucifix   measuring 5.20 meters was done in 1894.Inside the tower are five bells including my favorites the Grosse Marie, dating from the 17C, the Catherine, dating from the Renaissance but recast in 1890.

In the transept, to the left of the great Organ, small blue stained glass windows dating back to the 13C, the oldest of the Cathedral, are six scenes of Saint Paul’s life. They were probably from St. Paul’s Church, which was part of the Cathedral group and was demolished in the 18C. Several 13C roses adorn the last spans of the aisles of the nave. The Rose of the bay of the nave comes from the central stained glass of the choir of Notre-Dame-la-Ronde. Its central medallion is the coronation, angels with clasped hands, bearing crowns or censers occupy the six medallions of the perimeter. The Renaissance organ, restored in 1981, is suspended at mid-height in the nave of the Cathedral. Currently the main organ is located at the bottom of the transept. The third organ is concealed at the back of the choir, and is visible from behind from the ambulatory.


The Episcopal treasure, which contains remarkable pieces, such as the ivory bishops of the 12C and 13C, the episcopal ring of Saint Arnoul, pieces of goldsmith from the 12C to the 19C. The equestrian statuette known as Charlemagne and kept at the Louvre museum (again!), comes from the treasure of the Cathedral. This gilded bronze statue, dating largely from the 9C, is probably the grandson of Charlemagne, Charles the Bald. Several outstanding manuscripts are also from the Treasury: the Sacramentary of Drogon, the Bible of Charles the Bald, the Psalter of Charles the Bald as well as various precious Khitrovo, including the Gospels of Metz and the Gospels of Drogon.


Some webpages to help you plan your trip are:

The official Cathedral St Stephens of Metz

The Catholic Diocese of Mets on the Cathedral

The city of Metz on the Cathedral (see nice 360 degrees video):

The old Lorraine region tourist office on the Cathedral

There you go folks, another splendid St Stephens’ Cathedral that is a must to be seen by all; just alone worth the trip to Metz; and of course ,plenty more there. Hope you enjoy the history of it

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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September 7, 2021

The fountain of Saint Guigner of Pluvigner!

Ok I must be on a nostalgia run of my town, but it has lots of things to see and we are not even finish with seeing them all!!! This is an update of an older post on my nice Pluvigner , and feels the fountain deserves a post on their own so here it goes folks. Why not write about your own town pretty sights here we have them in bunches!  Let me tell you a bit brief on my favorite fountain and washhouse of Pluvigner. Fontaine Saint-Guigner et lavoir du Tanin  or the Saint-Guigner Fountain and Tanin Washhouse (Laundry).


The Fountain Saint Guigner dates from 1526. It is located at the crossroads of the rue des Fontaines and rue du Tanin in my  Pluvigner. The town of Pluvigner has about fifteen wash-houses and fountains! often associated with a chapel. They are therefore close to religious buildings. These constructions are very diverse: some slabs materializing a basin, imposing constructions sometimes associating a wash-house.


Legend has it that it was from his staff that Saint Guigner (and if read my blog is the founder of the town taking its name from him Plu Breton origin for parish and guigner so Pluvigner came out later like the parish of St Guigner) sprang water from where the devotional fountain now stands. On the day of the Pardon of the Holy Martyr, patients with rheumatism had to drink this water and pass under the seven reliquaries. The ogive aedicule of the fountain, formerly surmounted by a small cross, is completed by a wash-house with three basins. The inscription, which has become almost illegible today, confirms dating from the 16C. A source captured in a round and deep basin of about one meter gushes at the level of the pavement.

The monument has a washhouse with three basins or call the washhouse of Tanin or Lavoir du Tanin.


The city of Pluvigner on its washhouses

There you go folks, a small detail of a pretty fountain and washhouse that is right in city center on an old street behind the St Guigner Church (see post). And do come into the beautiful Morbihan dept 56. Enjoy the fountain of St Guigner and its washhouse of Tanin of Pluvigner!!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

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