Archive for September 6th, 2021

September 6, 2021

Church Saint Leonard of Fougéres!

Moving right alone in my beautiful Brittany and visiting the neighboring departmet of Ille et Vilaine no 35 we come to the city of Fougéres! Again, several entries in my blog on it, but as a general descriptive nature. I feel obligated to mention this Church Saint Leonard as one of my favorites.

From Fougéres came out Armand-Charles Tuffin, marquis de La Rouërie, that went over with La Fayette and fought with Gen Washington for American independance. He was promoted to Colonel for courage and valor in the battlefield and the US Congress in 1817 gave him the US citizenship honorably. (see post),

However, walking around town we came upon this Church that stands out and took a closer look, we were pleasantly surprise, another jewel in my belle France! I like to tell you a bit more on the Church Saint Leonard of Fougéres! Saint-Léonard Church  is located in the upper town in the immediate vicinity of the city/town hall and the public garden. The impasse Saint-Léonard separates it from the seat of the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Fougéres.

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The Church of Saint-Léonard was erected in the 12C by the monks of Pontlevoy on the plateau which dominates the Castle of Fougéres. It was rebuilt from 1407 to 1636 in a flamboyant Gothic style in order to meet the demands of the demographic increase that the city knew. Desecrated at the French revolution, the Church was profoundly revamped in the 19C, including the reorientation of the sanctuary, its expansion and the construction of a new main façade. The Church Saint-Léonard is a typical example of the religious buildings built in upper Bretagne at the end of the Middle Ages. Without a transept, finished by a flat bedside, its ample nave is accosted by a row of chapels built according to the foundations and the needs of a growing population.

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The main façade dates back to the 19C and replaces the original choir. Placed on a high step, a real stone lace, it transposes the models of the large flamboyant facades of Ile-de-France (Beauvais, Senlis, Sens or Meaux) under the Breton skies, using brilliantly the Kersanton stones for a result of the most graceful. The main door, with a perforated tympanum, is surrounded by buttresses with pinnacles, a gable crowning the whole and interrupting a first finely gallery bordering a terrace located at half-height. A six-meters diameter rose is the major ornament of the front porch. The steeple, built in local granite, endowed with gargoyles in the shape of cannons and a Renaissance gallery, the tower ends with high belfry crowned by a dome with lantern.

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The Church of Saint-Léonard presents a simple basilical-type layout. It is indeed a large nave of nine bays , the first span constituting a kind of narthex opening on two chapels. The church has doves covering the main nave having been raised to a height higher than the vaults of the secondary naves during the 19C. The liturgical space of the choir is singled by the presence of a triumphant arch at its entrance and the vaulting from the last two spans of the church. The latter date from the 19C which saw the change of orientation of the main façade being now turned towards the upper city.

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Most of the stained glass windows of the Saint-Léonard Church date from 1959. The bombardment of the city in 1944 having blown the old glass. The windows of the collateral and the bedside of figures in foot of Breton Saints or having been the subject of special veneration in the Middle Ages and under the old regime (monarchy),such as Saint Joan of Arc and Saint Geneviève, Saint Yves and the Curé of Ars, Saint Crépin and Saint Crispinian, Saint Aubert and Saint Michel. The Church still retains some fragments of its 16C stained glass and the oldest stained glass of Brittany from the abbey of Saint-Denis and dates from the 12C. These pieces, exhibited in the chapels flanking the main façade of Saint-Léonard.

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In the Chapel of the Baptismal Fonts , under the tower, fragments of an entrance of Christ in Jerusalem that adorned the former mistress-glass and other scenes of the 16C. Fragments of a resurrection of Lazarus, of Jesus in the Temple, of the adulterous woman. In the Chapel of the Sacred Heart; the exploration on the body of Christ, donor and Saint-Yves. Rondel of the 12C presenting two scenes of the Life of St. Benedict, coming from Saint-Denis: Romanus giving to Benoît his flow and Benedict nourished the Easter day by a priest. It is the oldest stained glass in Brittany. It was given to the Church of Saint-Léonard around 1898. The large organs were built in 1881.

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There you go folks, another worth a detour and may be considered an off the beaten path trip as most folks coming over here stop at the castle for the day and leave ;pity there is a lot more to see in Fougéres.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip are:

The city of Fougéres on its heritagehttps://fougeres.fr/dossier/d%C3%A9couvrir-le-patrimoine-fougerais-0

The Fougéres tourist office on the churchhttps://www.ot-fougeres.fr/home/discover/fougeres_and_its_surroundings_the_must_sees/touristic_map_of_fougeres/saint_leonards_church

The Bretagne region tourist office on Fougéreshttps://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/rennes-and-brittanys-historic-gateways/fougeres/

There you go folks all set to go, you will be glad you did. My lovely Bretagne is awesome! And even as off the beaten path, the St Leonard’s Church is a dandy to see; hope you have enjoy the post as I,

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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September 6, 2021

Marché des Lices of Rennes!!

So let me bring you into something that I just adore and one big reason love my belle France. There are markets and then there are the markets of France, the good of earth locally done cannot be beaten and one reason the culinary heights of France are no 1! This is alone one reason to live in my belle France! And I am enjoying it fully!

The markets we chase, find ,become nostalgic about them and continue to visit them anywhere we go in our France. This is of course no different in my Bretagne and we do all our essentials here , the hyper/supermarkets are for the paper stuffs! Buy fresh, from the good Earth and be happy about it knowing you are eating the very best the world can produce, in France. We went by Rennes and stopped by and each time it gets better as was this latest visit with my sons. Many souvenirs of our dear late wife/mom Martine as she introduce them to us and absolutely love them. For the record, Rennes is in dept 35 Ille et Vilaine, name after two rivers and in the region of Bretagne, its capital city!

It is already four centuries at least that every Saturday from 7h30 to 13h30 the local Rennais and visitors converge in number to the Place des Lices. The Marché des Lices is a food market and a flower market created in 1662, for fear of the plague, a market was held to avoid the entry into the city of sellers and buyers from outside. It welcomes only artisans and local producers and is the third market in France in terms of sellers.  The Marché des Lices is a market of farmers producers, food processors and florists, from 1965 in its modern form. It is an institution in Rennes, it is the second market of France with more than 300 producers and craftsmen or tradesmen non-producers, The market takes place at the place of the Lices, and extends over to the place de la Trinité, Place Saint-Michel ,and partially to the Place Rallier du Baty. Two halls built by Martenot are also used called Halles Martenot , in each hall there is a large central skylight resting on 16 cast iron pillars, connected by spacers of the same metal and the spans are closed by a brick filling of 2.50 meters. The market reserved for butchery, is based on a stone base to compensate for the unevenness of the soil.

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The first trace of a market at the bottom of the Place des Lices goes back to 1483. After the French revolution, the n ° 18 of the Place des Lices is acquired by the city to install its office of incoming merchandise of the city. The market is then daily for the wholesale, and completed on Saturday by the fairground market. The market continues to grow, a third hall, less large, is built in 1907 for market gardeners and sanitary inspection, at the current location of the fishmongers. This fishmongers place was demolished later and an underground car park is built at its location in 1989. There is some controversy today as there are fears of merchants and producers to lose the presence of many small artisans and operators, in favor of large producers stalls. As said, the market is from 7h30 to 13h30 for sales. However, the Installation starts at 4h disassembly ends at 14h30 to allow cleaning operations. During this time parking and traffic is chaotic to say the least but we locals managed it , surely visitors will be surprise of it!

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The different activities are grouped by trade: butchers and delicatessens in the west market (butchers’ hall); caterers, cheesemakers, patties merchants and sausage patties between the halls (Place de la Trinité); cheesemakers, bakers, artisans, confectioners, Asian caterers in the east hall ; the fishmongers on the slab of the car park, at the former location of the pavilion ; market gardeners and farmers producing fruit and vegetables throughout the Place des Lices and florists in Place Saint-Michel, overflowing on Place de Rallier du Baty. Although most come from the countryside of Rennes, the sellers come from all Brittany to propose their products,  and are made up to 60% of producers and craftsmen. The market is part of the life of the city, it is not uncommon to meet musicians, dancers, bachelor parties, candidates in elections, political happenings or petitioners, restaurateurs and chefs from the region who came to shop, etc.

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The Rennes tourist office on the Lices markethttps://www.tourisme-rennes.com/en/discover-rennes/gastronomy/lices-market-rennes-saturday/

The City metro area of Rennes on the Marché des Lices info and beautiful pictureshttps://metropole.rennes.fr/balade-au-marche-des-lices

There you go folks ,a wonderful experience for the visitors I am sure, and sublime for the locals like me, can’t get enough of them. The one in Rennes is super loaded with fresh produce, fruits and cheeses oh là là là I can’t wait to eat our bounty from there already this weekend. Enjoy it fully without moderation the Marché des Lices of Rennes!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

September 6, 2021

Museo Real de Artilleria en el Alcazar de Segovia!

Oh yes need to take this out of the Alcazar fortress post as it is magical ,beautiful and if anything worth the trip to the Alcazar of Segovia me think. It’s a must rooms to visit when in Segovia and we love it. Many many memorable experiences with my mom then girlfriend, then wife, then kids throughtout the years; Segovia is magical!

However, small spot in the city and a separate viewing in the Alcazar fortress is the Museo Real de Artilleria or the Royal Artillery Museum! Wonderful, a must to see me think! Let me tell you a bit more on it in a single post that it deserves.

Needless to tell you but for me will do.  This is another of my favorite cities of my beloved Spain, Segovia. From an early age , I think first time was when I was 10 years old with my mother; I keep coming back over the years, then with my wife, and then with the family and boys and parents and and ….lost count but each time is like the first time. There, the Alcazar of Segovia is awesome, a must to see. And do not forget the Royal Artillery Museum in it!!

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Museo del Real Colegio de Artillería or the wonderful Royal College of Artillery museum houses many wonderful military objects as here was the Artillery Academy of Segovia founded in 1764 in the Alcazar by king Carlos III . It is said to be the oldest military academy in the world in active duty ,this the  Real Colegio de Artillería de Segovia, in the Alcazar. Here was echo the call for independence from the invading armies of Napoléon I in May 2 1808 (Spain national independence day) that was led by the Artillery captains Luis Daoiz and Pedro Velarde (statues of them in front of the Alcazar now see post) that were former students of the academy. In  1862, fire destroyed the ceilings and roof, nobles rooms and they were rebuilt thanks to engravings done in 1839.

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The Artillery Academy of Segovia is a military academic institution in Spain founded on May 16, 1764 as the Royal Artillery College in the Alcázar of Segovia.  The Artillery College continued its work until the unfortunate fire of the Alcázar on March 6, 1862. The loss of the emblematic monument forced its abandonment and the immediate relocation of the cadets that same night in the former convent of San Francisco, used by the external students as a residence since 1853.

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The current headquarters of the Artillery Academy is the former convent of San Francisco (Calle San Francisco ,25) . A large part of the new facilities, such as classrooms and residences, are located in the Polígono de Baterías (Carretera de San Rafael s/n) in Segovia, where Higher Technician degrees are taught to EMIES students. The Academy houses in its Library one of the scientific and documentary collections richest in the country. In it you will find  only taking into account the scientific and military part all the European science of the 18C and 19C and all the artillery and fortification treatises of the last five centuries.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip are:

The official Real Colegio de Artilleriahttp://www.realcolegiodeartilleria.es/

The official Alcazar fortresshttp://www.alcazardesegovia.com/

The min of defense of Spain on the college now: https://ejercito.defensa.gob.es/en/unidades/Segovia/acart/index.html

The Segovia tourist office on the new artillery museum of the college near the Aqueduct: https://www.turismodesegovia.com/que-ver/museos/museo-de-la-academia-de-artilleria/

There you go folks, another dandy in Segovia. You start with the museum in the Alcazar , gorgeous indeed. IF time, see the new one more modern spacing sober. Segovia is a wonderful town, small enough to walk all over, and huge in Spanish history with marvelous architecture, love it. This is the Alcazar and its Royal Artillery Museum!

And remember, happy travels, good health ,and many cheers to all !!!

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