Archive for August 3rd, 2021

August 3, 2021

Church of Notre Dame de Trog-Wall of Clohars-Carnoët!

I went out today to see some of the coastal towns of my lovely Brittany , both in Finistére dept 29 and Morbihan my dept 56. And as usual in my road warrior drives past by the town but did not stop long. This time we did to see a bit of the monument in city center. This is an update of an older post, hope you enjoy as I.

This is my first post ever on Clohars-Carnoët in the Finistére dept 29 of my lovely Brittany!! Well even locals, there is always a first, especially when so much beauty is around you ::) And of course, you come into the town on a off work day and most empty so what do you see first , the big Church in city center! Let me tell you a bit about it as I will be back too… Oh yes , the Church of Notre Dame de Trog-Wall!

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But of course, a bit more on the town for reference me too!  Clohars-Carnoët is a town that includes the seaside resort of the Pouldu, the port of Doëlan and various beaches including those of Kérou and Bellangenet. It is bordered to the east by the Laita river, a ria separating it from the Morbihan dept 56. It is connected to it by the Pont Saint-Maurice ; and by an intermittent boat passage between the port of the Pouldu and Guidel-Plages (see posts). The coastline consists mainly of rocky cliffs of fairly rectilinear plotting forming a succession of small rocky peaks such as those of Beg an Tour, Beg Ero Gamm or the Vache Noir ,opposite of which is an islet; and small coves such as those of Port Blanc, Stang Nabec, Stang Souc, and Porsac’h. The beaches being at La Roche Percée, the Kérou, Bellangenet, and the Grand Sables to around the Pouldu. Two rias are located at both ends of the town’s coastline: to the west the Cove of Doëlan is the maritime part of the estuary of the brook of Pont Sénéchal and houses the small port of Doëlan.

The seaside resort of Pouldu occupies an old dune area which has been largely reduced. There are three fine sandy beaches there such as the Grands Sables, Bellangenet and the Kérou. The town has two small harbours, the Pouldu (meaning “black sea” in Breton), at the mouth of the Laita, and Doëlan rivers, nestled at the bottom of a cove, near the boundary with the town of Moëlan-sur-Mer (see posts). Boat rides are possible on the Laita between the port of the Pouldu and Quimperlé (see posts). Doëlan is a small fishing port , retaining a dozen fishing boats, picturesque, which has been able to keep its authenticity, even if it is now especially a Marina that has 300 moorings.

A bit of history I like

The region of Quimperlé formed in the high Middle Ages the Pagus Karnoued , a historical country; It was a pagus, that is, an administrative subdivision of the Cornouaille. The parish of Clohars-Carnoët comes from the dismemberment of the former primitive parish of the Armorique of Mellac. In 1177, Saint Maurice de Carnoët, then Abbot of the Abbey of Notre-Dame de Langonnet, (see post) founded a Abbey called Notre-Dame de Carnoët near the banks of the Laita river, of which he was the Abbot until his death in 1191. The Abbey later took the name of Saint-Maurice de Carnoët Abbey as today.

The small town is famous !!! yes it has attracted many famous painters and writers to its tranquil beautiful settings and I won’t blame them but thanks them for discovering these beautiful spots.  Several painters and artists of the École de Pont-Aven (see post) also frequented the village of the Pouldu in the late 19C and at the very beginning of the 20C. In 1887, Marie Henry built the Buvette de la Plage, which was initially for the clientele of local fishermen and boatbuilders. But on October 2, 1889, Paul Gauguin and the Dutchman Meyer de Haan came to take boarding, joined by Paul Sérusier and Charles Filiger. Shortly thereafter, Henry Moret moved to the nearby port of Bas-Pouldu. Other painters such as Emile Bernard, Maxime Maufra, etc., and writers like André Gide; also attend the beach bar where happy musical evenings are organized. In the fall of 1889, the residents of the Auberge de Marie Henry decorate frescoes all inside the house; among them, the most well-known painting is probably Mary Henry breastfeeding her own child, from Meyer de Haan, who was her lover. Paul Gauguin definitely left the Buvette de la Plage and the Pouldu on November 7, 1890. The frescos of the beach refreshment were sold and dispersed thereafter, but a reconstitution was made in a similar house in 1989. The Auberge de Marie Henry was therefore a place of welcome and meeting of painters. A route called the path of painters went thru the town , around the paintings depicting various places that inspired these painters. Among them are Henry Moret, Paul Gauguin, Meyer de Haan, Armand Seguin, Roderic O’Conor, Émile Dezaunay, Charles Filiger, Alfred Jarry, Jan Verkade, Jean-Bertrand Pégot-Ogier, Maurice Denis, Marius Gourdault, Nicolas Tarkhoff, Wladyslaw Ślewiński, Élisabeth Sergueevna Krouglikova, etc., and also the sculptor Olga Popoff.

The port of Doëlan has been frequented by many painters as well such as Henry Moret Émile Jourdan, Marius Gourdault, Jacques Vaillant, Maurice Elin, Émile Compard, Lucien Demouge, Harald Heiring etc., and writers like Pierre Mac Orlan before WWI, and Paul Guimard and Benoîte Groult more recently. They frequented the hostel of the mother of Bacon in Malachappe. The painter Pierre Jacob, better known under the pseudonym of Tal Coat, is the son of a fisherman from Doëlan.

Some of the things to see here and I will be back for reference are:

Maison-Musée du Pouldu, aka Maison de Marie Henry. reconstruction of the 19C Inn, where the painters of the Pont-Aven school met. More on the house museum: https://maisonmuseedupouldu.blogspot.com/

Abbatial site of Saint-Maurice on the banks of the Laita river , and ancient Cistercian Abbey. The Abbey Church of Saint-Maurice was done in the mid-19C and enlarged in 1845. It includes, preceded by a Bell Tower whose spire dates from 1774, a nave with four spans, a transept and a choir. The statues of Saint Cornély and Saint Vincent Ferrier are found there. More on the abbey: https://abbayesaintmaurice.blogspot.com/

The parish Church of Notre-Dame de Trogwall dates from the 16C and is in the form of a Latin cross. It has been repeatedly renovated such as the south porch and the sacristy (now extinct) date from 1777, the Spire dates from 1794, the arches of the nave and the whole Church having been heavily reworked in the second half of the 19C. More on this Church and others : https://www.clohars-carnoet.fr/patrimoine-historique/eglise-chapelles/

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The Quimperle Terres Océane tourist office on Clohars-Carnoëthttps://www.quimperle-terreoceane.com/en/discover/our-towns/clohars-carnoet/

There you have it folks, a wonderful spot, passing by now got a taste and we like , we shall return soon , especially to see more of the painters stories. This is quant peaceful Clohars-Carnoët in the Finistére breton dept 29 less than an hour from my house lol!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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August 3, 2021

The Church St Thuriau of Landivisiau!

And why not continuing with the wonderful Finistére dept 29 and showcase some of the nice monuments we have here in our lovely  Bretagne! I like to update this older post and take you to the town of Landivisiau and its Church of Saint Thuriau!

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Landivisiau is the historic capital of the Breton horse race. Landivisiau lies on the southern edge of the plateau of Leon, just north of the Valley of the Élorn, a coastal river coming from the Monts D’Arrée and which flows, after crossing Landerneau, in the harbour of Brest; its route serves as a boundary with Loc-Eguiner and forms an elbow just at the southern boundary of the town, where this stream receives a right-bank tributary, the Quillivaron, separating Landivisiau from Lampaul-Guimiliau and, further East, Guiclan; to the West the brook of Kerfeunteniou, another tributary of the right bank of the Élorn which flows into it downstream of Landivisiau, serves as a boundary with Bodilis; to the North the boundary of the town with Plougourvest, its former mother parish, is totally artificial.

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The Church of Saint-Thuriau built between 1863-1864. It replaced an older Church dating from 1554 and restored in 1663. It is consecrated in 1865. From the old church only the south porch and the Bell Tower dating from 1590 remain. Several renovation campaigns for the south porch are told such as in 1554 (open-air gate), 1554-1559 (lateral piers and arcades), 1559-1565 (vault and walls). The porch is all the more interesting to study that it is like the hyphen between the Gothic porches and those of the Renaissance. The large arcade, which forms the entrance to the side of the square, is leaning in the corners by two powerful buttresses and surmounted first by a brace or counter-curve, a first sharp creeping, decorated with curly leaves, then a second creeping that forms veteran and crowned by a monumental niche, adorned with fluted balusters with Ionic capitals and finished by a Gothic pinnacle.

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The niches that decorate the two corner buttresses house the seated statues of the four evangelists with their attributes, that of the Blessed Virgin from a former group of the Annunciation, and finally the statue of Ste. Anne. At the bottom of the first crawling are two curious caryatides: a mermaid and a satyr; at the bottom of the second, two gargoyles twisted and unchained; a winged dragon and a lion. In the middle of the pediment are two superposed statues: a Saint, in hair, holding a book, and a our Lady of piety; at the top, a stamped crest of a helmet and supported by two lions. The large niche that encrust the wall of the church contains the statue of St. Thivisiau, patron of the parish, and those of two other bishops.

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Between the rich mouldings and garlands adoring the sides and the perimeter of the large entrance, these are scenes from the Old Testament. Inside the porch, the statues of the twelve apostles are housed in half Gothic, half Renaissance niches. At the extreme rank a series of statuettes were carved in small niches. In the middle of the tympanum is placed a statue of the Saviour, to which a head topped with the tiara was reported and which had to belong to the Eternal Father.

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The Bell Tower of the Church of St Thuriau is by its style and height, one of the most beautiful in the country of Leon; it is almost detached from the Church and has its base pierced on both sides by two large arcades that form an open passage. There is a pretty statue of St. Michael which is under the window of the south transept.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here are:

The city of Landivisiau on its heritagehttps://landivisiau.fr/fr/rb/937718/le-patrimoine-7

There you go folks, an interesting place to see while doing your walks in nice quant old Landivisiau.  And of course plenty more to see on my previous posts.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all !!!

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August 3, 2021

Mercado de Abastos of Aranjuez!

And back into my beautiful historical sunny Spain, and another legendary city of it. This is Aranjuez, in the Comunidad de Madrid region, just outside the Capital city of Madrid. Wonderful beautiful indeed. I like to update this older post of a dear visit to historical Aranjuez!

However, today will tell you a bit more on the supplies market that is the happenning in town again. The Mercado de Abastos or sort of supplies market is now better than ever right near the Palace. Again, plenty more written in my blog but this icon needs more me think. We love markets if you read my blog…!

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The Mercado de Abastos market inauguration dates from the year 1894, and its most important restoration of 1985. In 1997 the consistory yields the exploitation of the market to a private company that finally mirrored and conditions the entire enclosure.  Before the 19C there was an open-air crate market, located in the same square.

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This work introduces the formal vocabulary of a new material such as iron, and interprets the use of brick and stone so characteristic of the architecture of Aranjuez, and following a Hispanic tradition.   However, it maintained the 18C architecture. The building was a  market of supplies at the end of the 19C (1891-1895) and recently restored, finishes to form the Plaza de la Constitucion, with a last element, the sculpture of king Alfonso XII that centers the square, public space fully 19C both in Its architect typology, as in its denomination and use.  The historic new Mercado  de Abastos  market has inaugurated in 2016 an area dedicated to the restoration that is located in the central courtyard of the building.

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In the 18C, a large urban space had been dedicated where transactions were practiced. In 1775, there appears a wide street, elongated, called Plaza de Abastos, which clearly divides into two the urban area of the Royal site. This route began in the Camino Real or Camino de Ocaña (Royal or Ocaña way) , the current Ruta de  Andalusia (road) and ended in what would be the Calle del  Foso or moat st. It had not yet been built in its center the line of houses that would divide in two this large area, forming the current streets of the Gobernador and Abastos. A quant wonderful part of Aranjuez and we walked it all, easy to do come on, very close to the Royal Palace grounds and around here the best places to eat out. Plenty more in my blog.

The official mercado de abastos of Aranjuezhttp://mercaranjuez.es/

The city of Aranjuez on the mercado de abastoshttp://www.aranjuez.com/mercado-de-abastos.html

There you go folks ,again another gem in my beautiful Spain, the Mercado de Abastos of Aranjuez is nice, especially after a visit to the Royal Palace in town! Enjoy it as we did!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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