Paris1972-Versailles2003

One of the nicest cathedrals in France and it took me about two trips to Tours to finally see it! Well it was worth the stop and it is a wonderful cathedral. I like to update the text and links on this older post for the enjoyment of me and you. Let me tell you about the Cathedral Saint Gatien of Tours!!

Now let me bring you to an area I have been coming since even before living in France. This is the Loire valley of the kings, and the purest French language according to scholars. I have passed and been in Tours several times, but rather quickly either on business meetings or just stopping by on my way to other places.  All this change until I came to live in France in 2003 and was close by. Tours and its castles you think , yes, there are plenty here and beautiful. However, I came mostly for the architecture and the history and mainly for the wines of the Loire. But again, fell that had not given the merit it deserves to its wonderful Cathedral Saint Gatien; therefore, here is my presentation of it now.

Saint-Gatien Cathedral of Tours in the department of Indre-et-Loire no 37, Region Centre-Val de la Loire (this is the real castle region not to be confused with the other one pays de la loire, even if castles there too ::)) . Dedicated to Saint Gatien, the first Bishop of Tours, it is the seat of the Diocese of Tours and the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Ecclesiastical province of Tours. St. Gatien Cathedral was built between 1170 and 1547. During its creation, it was located almost at the outlet of the bridge over the Loire controlled by the Château de Tours, on the road connecting Paris to the southwest of France.

A bit of history i like

The first Cathedral of St. Maurice was built by Lidoire, Bishop of Tours from 337 to 371 and Martin’s predecessor. Burned down in 561, it was restored by Gregory of Tours and opened  in 590. Because of its location, at the corner of the Castrum, and its orientation to the east, access was made, if not through the late-antique enclosure, at least by bayonet from the throughway in the city. The Cathedral of Tours was rebuilt during the second quarter of the 12C and was burned down in 1166 during the struggles between Louis VII of France and Henry II of England, Count of Anjou. This Cathedral has a length of 100 meters, with of 28 meters with the transept is 46 meters wide, the towers are on the North of 68 meters and on the South of 69 meters.  At the site of the present St. Gatien Cathedral, in the 4C there was a first sanctuary of modest size, then a second in the 6C. Finally, a third, Romanesque style, is built around 1125. Destroyed by several fires, the building was raised and transformed thanks to the generosity of Saint Louis (1236). From this time date the Choir of radiating Gothic style. Once the Choir and the transept were completed, the 14C saw the nave rise in turn. It will only be completed after the Hundred Years ‘ War, as is the façade that adopts a flamboyant Gothic style. It was also in the 14C that the Cathedral was definitively consecrated to Saint Gatien.

The best here are its stained glass windows. The most beautiful, dazzling, adorn the Chapels of the ambulatory and the high windows of the choir. It is one of the most perfect ensembles of  stained glass windows of the 13C  existing in Europe, complete, intact, multicolored, very varied. It is necessary to add the two rosaries of the transept, from the 14C, as well as those of the nave and the façade, from the 15C. Another beautiful 15C stained-glass window adorns one of the Chapels of the south aisle. The organ buffet would have been offered by Archbishop Martin of Beaune in the 16C damaged during the wars of Religion, it underwent several restorations and even in the 17C a real reconstruction, probably around 1620. The organ buffet is adorned with a dozen angels and cherubs.  When visiting Saint-Gatien, don’t forget your pair of binoculars!  The contemplation of these angels, very finely sculpted, when the rosary is in the background, is really breathtaking indeed. The bells are located in the south tower.  Christus, was done in 1749, it comes from the abbey of Cormy and then settled in the cathedral in 1807.  Maurice, was installed at the Cathedral in 1864.  Gatien, was installed at the cathedral in 1864. Martin, was done in the 14C .

You can also see in the Cathedral the tomb of two of the children of Charles VIII and Anne of Brittany, who died in the early years. The two recumbents this monument was in 1506 in the collegiate Church of Saint-Martin before being dismantled in the French revolution and then reassembled in 1814 in a Chapel of  Saint-Gatien where it was restored for the first time in 1834.  The tomb of the Children of France. This superb memorial in Carrara marble is the tomb of Charles Orland (died 3 years old) and Charles (died 25 days).  The recumbents correspond to the French sculpture of the time. The nave is the work of Italians artists  whom Charles VIII had brought back to France following the Italian Wars. They introduced the Italian Renaissance such as putti, coat of arms, dolphins, vegetable frieze, centaurs, sirens, etc. In the history of art, this monument is part of the first French Renaissance. It will of course have a certain influence on the sculptors of Touraine during what historians call the beautiful 16C.  Since 2011, the Cathedral houses a large 17C  tabernacle of ebony-and ivory-clad oak, having belonged to a chartreuse, then to the Carmel of Créteil which gave it to the State in  1950. Since 1963, it adorned the Château de Chambord  Chapel, but the estate wanted to refurnish itself only in objects related to its history. The tabernacle was transferred and renovated to St. Gatien Cathedral. A basement and a protection grid have been added. He is now exhibited in one of the Chapels of the ambulatory.

During the first half of the 16C, the towers, characteristic of the Cathedral of Tours, received their coronation in Italian style. Two decades later, during the wars of Religion, the numerous statues of the portals were destroyed by the Protestants. At the French revolution, Saint-Gatien became the Temple of Reason.  The Cathedral of Tours has a magnificent canopy in its large Choir and two beautiful rosaries of radiant style, in the arms of the transept. One of them serves as a background to a sumptuous 16C organ buffet. The St. Gatien Cathedral has a magnificent canopy of the apse dates from the years 1260-1267. It dominates a Choir of radiant Gothic style erected thanks to the largesse of Saint Louis.  The nave comprises eight bays. The first six are from the 15C. The two farthest back to the Romanesque cathedral of the 12C. This is due to the lack of money. Pope John XXII , and the famous Jacques Duèze of the Cursed Kings even had to call for help in favor of the Cathedral.

Further to be seen around the Cathedral Saint Gatien is a Cloister, also of Renaissance period, this Cloister bears the name of  Cloister of the Psalette, in reference to its function of school of Psalms (religious songs). Further north (about 350 meters), the remains of Gallo-Roman baths discovered during the excavations of 1974-78, under the original foundations of the castle of Tours, whose tower of Guise (13C), is the name of the young Duke who escaped in 1591, is well preserved. To the south of the Cathedral, the ancient palace of the Archbishop, built in the early 18C, is now the Museum of Fine Arts in Tours.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here and is a must in Tours are

The parish of the Cathedral of Tours: https://www.paroisse-cathedrale-tours.fr/cathedral/index

The Tours tourist office on the Cathedral: https://www.tours-tourisme.fr/voir-faire/activites-gratuites/468069-cathedrale-saint-gatien

The Touraine Loire Valley tourist board on Tours: https://www.touraineloirevalley.com/decouvrir/belles-villes-de-touraine/visiter-tours/

The regional Val de Loire tourist board on Tours: https://www.loirevalley-france.co.uk/outings/city-visits/tours-ville-dart-et-dhistoire-heart-loire-valley

There you go folks, you got all you need to come see this beauty, a jewel in the Loire, Cathedral of Saint Gatien of Tours. Enjoy it as we did.  And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

Well, if you have been reading my blog and thank you for it doing it since Nov 2010; then you know my sentimental attachment to Honfleur. A city gear to the ocean and fishing and with several posts in my blog, this one is an overall small rendition to the ocean sea traditions of Honfleur. Hope you enjoy it as I.

I have come to realize long ago that even if the beach is not the best, the ocean, water is all around Honfleur and an integral part of its attraction. There is nothing better than walking ,eating or playing knowing you have the ocean next to you. This Honfleur has plenty and we love it! As said, I have several posts on Honfleur here , covering several years, therefore no need to tell you about the history of the place, it has been mentioned plenty already. I like to give you a bit on the ocean side of my special HONFLEUR.

I will first tell you a bit from the city on the old basin or Vieux Bassin the ones we all go to as soon as arriving in Honfleur.  The paddock harbor , called Havre Neuf until the construction of the Central basin. It then becomes Western Basin or old basin (Vieux Basin in French). In the inside of the fortified enclosure was the port, consisting of a stranded haven of 120 meters in length and 50 meters in width, which communicated with the sea by a ship lock, wide of 15 to 20 meters and located roughly on the site of the levy of the Western Basin(Bassin de l’ouest). This harbor of stranding, at the bottom of which the standing water resulted by means of locks located at the site occupied today by the Petite Poissonnerie shop, was bordered, on the west side, by a narrow wharf and by houses; beyond these houses, the fortified enclosure was on the very site where we now see the wall of the Saint Catherine Wharf. (Quai Sainte Catherine).

Two towers dominated and defended the entrance to the inner harbor. It is in this basin so small, which barely had a surface equal to half of the smallest of the current basins, that the Honfleur sailors were arming their ships, in quite a large number at a time, for Newfoundland ,Canada, for the East Indies and the coast of Guinea, finally for the race and for these warlike expeditions in which their pavilion was honored as  Colbert sent Duquesne to this port to examine what improvements he was likely to have. The demolition of the fortifications was decided, dominated by the neighboring hillsides of the city and outside to withstand the artillery of the time; the Bourbon bastion (or barre) and the largest part of the enclosure on the western side were razed; The houses to the west of the port ,the quai Sainte Catherine were expropriated and, in 1684 – 1690, wharf walls were built, a hunting lock established at the bottom of the basin, the jetty of the lieutenancy repaired. The work was completed in 1690.  The wall of the quai Saint Catherine  was redone in 1791 – 1794. The wall of the Quai Saint Etienne from 1811 to 1813, when the demolition of the old wall, dating back to the reign of Louis XIV, was deemed indispensable. This ancient wall, of which there remains vestiges beneath the embankments of the Quai Saint Etienne, was two or three meters behind the wall of the wharf by which it was replaced. It can shelter from 1668 vessels from 3 to 400 tons. In the 18C, the vieux bassin (old basin) was reserved for coasters and armaments for fishing. Samuel de Champlain, Jean Denis or even Binot Paulmier de Gonneville  embark from these docks for great expeditions to the New World.

The old basin or vieux basin now hosts many pleasure craft. Honfleur is a port of call for boaters going up the Seine in the direction of Paris. The quays in the Seine are host to many cruise ships. The inland port allows to receive during the season of the river cruisers with Honfleur offering the possibility to receive 5 steamers simultaneously. Fishing: About fifteen trawlers practice artisanal fishing in Honfleur. The grey shrimp “the little Grey” is very popular here and is still caught by some boats. The St Jacques clam shells of the Seine Bay occupies part of the fleet from October to the end of May, depending on the harvest resources. You will, also find the Sole and various fish dishes according to the seasons that can be bought at the bottom of the trawler or fish market.  

Honfleur tourist office on fishing trips and cruises in English: https://www.honfleur-tourism.co.uk/making-my-stay-count/practical-information/les-ports/

And to know the marine forecast meteoconsult for Honfleur which I follow too; webpage: https://marine.meteoconsult.fr/meteo-marine/bulletin-detaille/port-274/previsions-meteo-honfleur-aujourdhui

The Butin beach is already a Blue Pavilion (means is tops ) since 2009. The Butin beach is equipped with sanitary facilities, beach cabins, showers, a paddling pool, a playground and a snack bar. Since 2017, a minibus does the transfer between the car park and the city center, see the timetables at the bus station at rue des vases. The Pavillon Blue award webpage: https://www.pavillonbleu.org/laureats-communes-2018/14-honfleur.html

And my fav beach webpage Plages TV on the plage Butin of Honfleur: https://en.plages.tv/detail/butin-beach-honfleur-14600

And one organization that is dear to me. Very much on the sea saving lives and helping those wishing a final rest at sea.  The SNSM =société nationale de sauvetage en mer or in English: National Marine Rescue Society,their history there a bit I like.  It is necessary to go back to 1848 to find the first bases of a real sea rescue organization in Honfleur, i.e. at the time of the creation of the Chamber of Commerce. The sinking of an English brig, the “Endearvour”, in 1857, in front of the port of Honfleur, proving the urgency of a better organization and, by decree dated August 12, 1857, the Emperor Napoleon III created the rescue station which he entrusted the management to the Chamber of Commerce.  In 1865 the Central Rescue Society of Shipwrecks was created in 1884, the Count of Châteauvillard, bequested to the Central Rescue Society, so that Honfleur could be endowed with a lifeboat, the rowing boat ” Châteauvillard “commissioned in 1885. In 1907, Mrs. and Ms. Augustin-Normand, ship builders in Le Havre but whose family was of Honfleur origin, offered a lifeboat to Honfleur. It was named “Jacques Augustin-Normand”. Baptized at Le Havre in 1908. By 1926, the inauguration of the new station, the shelter, and the new lifeboat “Alphonsine-Émilie”.

After  WWII, the Honfleur flotilla, largely destroyed by the nazis, had gradually been replaced and a new lifeboat was awarded to Honfleur by the Central Rescue Company, the “Fernand de Wegmann”.  The lifeboat “Fernand de Wegmann” was first modernised in 1973 in Cherbourg and then in 1984 in Honfleur. In 1986, the station was provisionally equipped with a second-class star, the “Robert-Edmond de Bassac”. In March 1988, the “Patrons Dubarre et Corvic” modernized in Saint Malo, joins the station of Honfleur.    In 1990, with the help of generous donors, the National Marine Rescue Society puts into service in Honfleur, a Zodiac MK III GR Inflatable boat, equipped with a 40 hp engine. Since 1994, the station has a first class vedette “Notre Dame du Port” (our sentimental boat and we are donors here) In April 2013, the vedette boat is equipped with two new more modern engines. A new Zodiac comes in 2013 to reinforce the means of the station at Honfleur.

The Honfleur SNSM webpage: https://station-honfleur.snsm.org/

And the same SNSM webpage with a map locator of all their stations in France: https://www.snsm.org/retrouvez-les-sauveteurs-en-mer-pres-de-chez-vous?display=map

A wonderful sea town which we love very much. Always friendly people , good family fun, beautiful architecture and rich history as well as great artists of always; makes Honfleur the second most visited place in all Normandie!!

The city of Honfleur on things to see/do: https://www.ville-honfleur.com/decouvrir-honfleur/

The Honfleur tourist office in English: https://www.honfleur-tourism.co.uk/

And there you go folks, another dandy beautiful place in my belle France. Honfleur is a must visit especially if heading to Normandy. Hope you enjoy it as much as me writing the post, always special Honfleur.

And remember, happy travels,good health, and many cheers to all!!!