Archive for June 28th, 2021

June 28, 2021

Saint Augustin Church of Paris!!

Now this is great to be able toupdate this post for you and me! I have here very often and had lunch just across from it on several occasions and even a dinner! The area is nice and very close to the Gare Saint Lazare train station which I took to come to work in Paris. I like to tell you again a bit on the  Saint Augustin Church of Paris!! Hope you enjoy the post as I, and thanks for reading me since Nov 2010!

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I have been around seen some, most I like. Paris is an outdoor living museum! Beauty to the beholder and do walk, do stay above ground. I like to tell you about an unique church.  The Saint Augustin Church sits in an area of my first coming to Paris when came to live in France. From my beloved Versailles rive droite train station I came to Paris to work for about 9 years! The area is dear to me for this reason, and memories to last a lifetime!

The Church of Saint Augustin was built between 1860 and 1871, in the neighborhood of Petit Pologne (little Poland),at place Saint-Augustin in the 8éme district of Paris. Official address of 46, Boulevard Malesherbes . It was the first church in Paris to use a metal structure covered with a stone siding the work of Victor Baltard , also architect of the old Halles of Paris. This building is a composition of several architectural styles, such as Romanesque, Gothic, Byzantine and Renaissance. It has 94 meters long and 60 meters high on the Dome.  On the façade, the symbols of the four evangelists above the arcades and, under the Rosette, the Twelve Apostles.

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The design of the building, in trapeze, is original; It is the result of the difficulty in exploiting the triangular parcel along  Bd Malesherbes and avenue César Cairo. Behind a monumental gate, the nave and oblique aisles flare up to join the choir, of square plan, topped by a dome with up to date lantern. The nave is lined with arcades in full hanger, surmounted by a triforium. Leaves a vast nave without a aisle which gradually widens to the octagonal transept flanked by two side chapels . It is indeed the first religious building of such magnitude using cast iron, these new building materials then in vogue in the second half of the 19C. Inside, the cast that supports the vault and the dome is at the same time decorative element with its polychrome angels. The windows of the nave align bishops and martyrs of the 1C. The central part of the transept houses a sanctuary surrounded by a balustrade full of stone and marble; in the middle rises a rich ciborium of cast iron and the master altar adorned with bronze grates, marble columns and mosaics of Lyon. A bronze statue of 16 figures painted under the dome adorning the façade, the symbols of the four evangelists above the arcades and, under the Rosette, the Twelve Apostles.  There is a Rosary of 8 meters in diameter and 20 meters high.

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The great organs of this magnificent Saint Augustin Church are the work of the factor Charles Spackman Barker, famous in the world of the organ for his invention of the “machine Barker” which revolutionized the mode of transmission. They were built in 1867-1868 and inaugurated in 1868. This organ was also one of the first to integrate electricity. The instrument was restored by Cavaillon-Coll (1899), Beuchet-Debiere (1961) and Dargassies (1987).

This was the first time that a church of this size was built with a metal frame covered with stones. Baltard did not seek to conceal the metal: the frame is seen at the level of the vault and the columns. Gilded cast iron pillars adorned with polychrome angels support the entire building. The circular chorus hosts a large cast iron ciborium and opens onto three dominated chapels, each with an open grandstand.  Saint Augustin Church is arranged in Romano-Byzantine style, sometimes eclectic: Romanesque for the nave with its arches in full hanger, Byzantine for the choir with its dome, but also antique for the ciborium and Renaissance vaguely elsewhere.

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The emperor  Napoléon III himself had chosen the Church of St. Augustin to house his burial and it was in this building so representative of the Second Empire by its metallic architecture and by the eclecticism of its style that the supporters of the repatriation of the remains of Napoleon III in France would like to see the ruler buried.  Napoleon III decided that the crypt of the church would house his burial and those of the princes of the Imperial family, that of the emperors and empresses to remain in the Basilica of St. Denis. (see post) Finally, the emperor died in exile in England and was buried with his wife and son at the Abbey of Saint-Michel (Farnborough).

A bit on the construction I like

Napoleon III’s willingness to create major traffic routes in the capital, bordered by modern buildings, reshaped the population profile. The need to endow it with a church worthy of the standing of its inhabitants was pressed. The space was not wide: there was just a trapezoid delimited by bd Malesherbes and Ave Caesar Cairo. Moreover, if you look at a map of Paris, you will see a change of angle in the Boulevard Malesherbes at this place. To build a large church, thought Baron Haussmann, would conceal this obliquity from the perspective.

This task was entrusted to Victor Baltard  He had managed to settle, to the satisfaction of the Prince-President, the problem of the Halles in 1852. The construction  began in 1860. He was followed closely by the emperor. Resuming the innovation of the Saint-Eugène Church, Baltard proposed a metal frame covered with stone walls and a brick vault. This method of construction was, he argued, economical and solid. There was no need for buttresses or arch-tips. Using the metal to build, it was modern.  And it was also what the Parisian Catholics wanted at the time: to combine modernity with spiritual needs without losing sight of the usual stylistic formulas. Victor Baltard chose neo-Romanesque porches, Byzantine dome, arched arcades in the nave, ciborium to the antique, while emphasizing the new artistic techniques.

The Church of St. Augustin was inaugurated  in 1868 and did not unleashed enthusiasm. Very quickly, the architect was blamed for the too important part given to the technique. Others regretted that the route of the streets was to his  architecture and not the other way around, depriving the building of a harmony. Finally, during the War of 1870, the mockers did not hesitate to assimilate the lantern to a Prussian helmet and mock the Calvinist religion of the architect, which disqualified him, it was said, to build Catholic churches.

Outside you have the statue of Jules Simon behind the Church and that of Jeanne d’Arc in front of the Church.

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Some webpages to help you plan your trip here and it is a good one to visit,are:

The parish of St Augustin Churchhttps://www.saintaugustin.net/

The Catholic diocese of Paris on St Augustin Churchhttps://www.paris.catholique.fr/-saint-augustin-.html

The Paris tourist office on St Augustin Churchhttps://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71904/Paroisse-Saint-Augustin

There you go folks, another dandy in beautiful Paris. It is a wonderful church in a nice area close to the Madeleine and the gare Saint Lazare and the Big department stores ,all that glitter in Paris!! Enjoy the St Augustin Church in my eternal Paris!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

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June 28, 2021

Saint Eustache Church of Paris!!

This is one of the historical and better known churches of Paris, and I have plenty on them in my blog. Actually coming here was to go the Les Halles and saw the building in the first visit. My curiosity took me in and then every time in the area will go in and see. I have an older post on the Saint Eustache Church of Paris and will updated here for you and me, and see my other post on the church in my blog. I am glad to be doing this nowdays and thanks for reading me since Nov 2010!

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However, I need to put some apart on a single post and so the saga continues with a historical wonderful churches of Paris.  I am talking about the Church of Saint-Eustache. Saint-Eustache Church is located in the 1éme arrondissement or district in the heart of the neighborhood or quartier of Halles. The Meridian, meanwhile, lies above and to the left of the south gate and measures 3 meters high. Its lines, carved in stone, show every quarter of an hour between 11h and 13h or 11am to 1pm.   In the summer season, the Church of Saint-Eustache is one of the most visited in Paris. Its location in the center of the capital, near the Forum des Halles,(see posts) is not for nothing. If the exterior aspect is more classical (although the façade has nothing to seduce), the interior architecture-at first glance-is rather confusing.

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A bit of history tell us that in the 13C there was a chapel dedicated to St. Agnes. became with use, Saint-Eustache. Too small, it is replaced in the 16C by a large, 100 meters long, flamboyant Gothic-style Church. The plans and the architectural principles follow those of Notre-Dame de Paris. The first stone was laid in 1532, but the Church was actually completed only in 1640. Its construction was slowed down by the lack of funding, the nature of the land and the wars of Religion. Next to the Gothic, the interior offers many aspects of the Italian Renaissance.  At the French Revolution, Saint-Eustache was ransacked, transformed into a temple of agriculture, then returned to worship in 1803; victim of a fire in 1844, the church was restored by Victor Baltard. Its famous Tribune organ, due to the croquet, dates from 1854.  Saint-Eustache contains a large number of 19C murals and some magnificent works of art (paintings and sculptures), such as the statue of the Virgin of the Child of Pigalle, one of the most beautiful in Paris.

A historical fact, at its creation, the Chapel of the Virgin had a rich ornamentation in marble, in woodwork, in paintings. All this was ransacked or stolen from the French revolution. The chapel was restored in 1800 and, little by little, reembellished. In its center there is a magnificent sculpture of the Madonna and Child  by  Jean-Baptiste Pigalle . The painter Thomas Couture enriched it with three great frescoes on the theme of the Virgin: “The triumphant Virgin adored by the Angels”; “The Virgin star of the sailors” and “the Virgin comforter of the afflicted”. The style is remarkable as there are no figurism or symbolism and the Angels almost like human beings well in flesh. The gallery of stained Glass  gives a close-up picture of the altarpiece and its unusual series of vases.

Colbert was the churchwarden of the Church of Saint-Eustache. This mausoleum is considered to be a major work in 17C statuary. The artist used bronze and white and black marble. Colbert, seized in the attitude of a praying, is clad in his mantle of Commander of the Order of the Holy Spirit. To the left of the sarcophagus, fidelity, chiseled by Coysevox , and to the right, piety or abundance due to Jean-Baptiste Tuby.

Yet some famous have a lot to do with the Church. Some of them are king Louis XIV  received his  communion. Mozart, also chose the sanctuary as the location for his mother’s funeral. Among those baptised here as children were Richelieu, Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, (future Madame de Pompadour)  and Moliére, who was also married here in the 17C. The last rites for Anne of Austria, Turenne, and Mirabeau were pronounced within its walls. Marie de Gournay is buried there. A truly historical church of Paris, one of the must to visit.

A bit on the architectural look from my amateur eye. The visitor entering the Church is immediately seized by the height of the vaults (33 meters) and the imposing vertical masses that permeate the entire building. The flamboyant gothic is found in the vaults of warheads, embellished with liernes, and ubiquitous pendant keys. The style Renaissances’exprime in the juxtaposition of the ancient orders, the pillars that are flanked by pilasters, the arches in full hanger and, of course, in the abundant decoration on the Capitals (Seraphim, baskets of flowers, etc.). The Saint-Eustache has a vast canopy on three levels of elevation. The Church is so high that the first level of elevation is itself divided into two sublevels, materialized by a double row of stained glass windows.  Most of them are white glass. If one adds the large double door of the south brace, always open to illuminate the transept (in fact the passage is closed by a glass wall), Saint-Eustache is a very luminous Church. As the choir is in the east and there is no building in the south, the sun, in good weather, radiates the entire nave of its rays throughout the day.

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The organs of Saint-Eustache Church are among the largest in France. Due to the croquet done in 1854, they were restored in 1989. The wood carving of the buffet (on a cardboard by Victor Baltard) is a pure splendor. The beauty of the characters and the rose in the background create a scenic magic that must be enjoyed with a pair of binoculars. Truly wonderful.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here are:

The Parish of Church Saint Eustache on its history in French: http://paroissest-eustache.com/historique/

The Church Saint Eutache on its history in French: https://www.saint-eustache.org/histoire-et-patrimoine/histoire-de-leglise

The Paris tourist office on Saint Eustache Churchhttps://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71305/%C3%89glise-Saint-Eustache

There you go folks, another dandy in my belle France and beautiful Paris. I feel glad was able to update this one for you and me, and see my other post on the church in my blog. Hope you enjoy the visit to Saint Eustache Church of Paris as it is a ride into history, and architecture.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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June 28, 2021

How about Bitburg, Germany!

And this was a last minute trip. We were based south of Trier and road warrior trips in western Germany when we saw a beer wine festival in the town we were staying Oberemmel and the drink par excellence was the beer of Bitburg! So as curious as we are saw a map and realised was not far from us so we went for a visit. A nice ride pleasant anecdotes and not bad at all beer. This older post I am updating as an introduction to the town in my black and white series, no pictures. There is more of it in my blog. Hope you enjoy it as I.

Let me tell you about our escapades to the neighboring country of Germany, and specifically, Bitburg. My sons interest in heavy metal music and German groups finally convince me to go. Of course, been there on business trips several times, but never on a personal trip until then. The boys love it of course, and we came to like it too, learning very well the full scope of opportunities for travel in compact Europe. And we went to Bitburg from our base just south of Trier.  Bitburg is the capital of the district Bitburg-Prüm in Rhineland-Palatinate State, 30 km (about 18 mi) north of Trier in the southern part of the Eifel.  The traditional talk is a local variation of Luxembourgish language.

A bit of history I like

Bitburg was founded about 2000 years ago as a crossing point on the road between Lyon and Cologne by Metz and Trier. Its first name was Vicus Beda. In the middle of the 10C, the town was acquired by the County of Luxembourg (later Duchy), then in 1443 by the Duchy of Burgundy. Since 1506 the city has successively belonged to the Spanish Netherlands, then to the Austrian Netherlands from 1714. The city fell into the hands of the French in 1794 (during the French revolution) and became in 1798 the seat of a the department of the Forests (fôrets). According to the agreements of the Congress of Vienna, the city was entrusted in 1815 to the Kingdom of Prussia, where it was successively city-arrondissement of the Grand Duchy of Bas-Rhin, then of the province of Rhineland-Prussian

Towards the end of WWII, Bitburg was devastated at 85% of its surface by bombardment and declared “Dead City” by the Americans. Although located in the French zone of occupation, the forces that stationed in the city after the war were made up of Luxembourg troops, replaced in 1955 by French forces stationed in Germany. In 1965, an American-controlled NATO support base was added. At the end of the 1980’s, the French withdrew their last men and NATO took over the former French barracks. After the Gulf War successively settled the 525e tactical Fighter Squadron (TFS) “Bulldogs”, the 53rd TFS “Tigers” (after moved to Spangdahlem), the 22nd TFS “Stingers” and finally in 1994 Bitburg Airport was occupied by the 36th TFW.  The US present ended in 1994. Currently, only a few parts of the Bitburg barracks are still governed by NATO. Needs to see which ones….not sure.

Transports in and around Bitburg. The B51 is an important link between the north and the south. Like the Roman road between Trier and Cologne, it joins the region of Trier and Luxembourg with the north. And this was the road we took always there. In recent years, the A60 Liège-Wittlich has been passing close to the city; but as a beltway preferred the B51. The rest not try at all just for information; there is a train station of Bitburg-Erdorf frequented by the Eifelbahn of the line Gerolstein-Trier and the Eifel-Mosel-Express (RE 12) of the line Cologne – Euskirchen – Gerolstein – Trier. The DB Regio Südwest Eifel-Mosel-Express also passes through Bitburg-Erdorf.

Things to see

In the buildings of the old School of Agriculture of 1882 today is the Museum of the region Bitburg-Prüm. The latter proposes, through many objects, a good retrospective on the 2 000 years of history of Bitburg and the Eifel. There is a nice Church of Our Lady in city center with quaint restos and architecture around it, Nice bells outside the Church.

And the main reason we came is for the brewery lol! Bitburg bier, one of the best. A German blonde beer of low fermentation (pils) brewed at Bitburg since 1817. Their famous slogan is “Bitte ein bit “. Not fluent in German took it from the web as meaning   Please, a Bit,” or “A Bit, please” . Johann Peter Wallenborn founded the brewery in Bitburg in 1817 at the age of 33.  The beer was featured in the 2011 film, X-Men : First Class. The only lags is the tour is only given in German on most days, English is by appointment. So we took it in German anyway, the main thing was the beer lol! It is a must to visit in town indeed.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here are:

The Bitburg area tourist office in English: https://www.eifel-direkt.de/en

The city of Bitburg on its history in English: https://www.bitburg.de/cgi-bin/cms?_SID=fake&_sprache=en&_bereich=artikel&_aktion=detail&idrubrik=1002&idartikel=100052

The German Luxembourg area tourist office on Bitburg in English: https://www.lux-trier.info/en/explore/city-diversity/bitburg-2

And the Bitburg brewery in German: https://www.bitburger-international.com/bitburger/

There you go another dot on the world map for us and hopefully for you too. Enjoy Bitburg, at least the beer is good lol!! By the way ,now we can get it in my breton lands this beer! And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

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