Archive for May 13th, 2021

May 13, 2021

Larmor Baden and Port Blanc in the Gulf!!

And let me continue along the coast of my beautiful Morbihan and update for you and me this nice short post on pretty Larmor-Baden and Port Blanc in the Gulf of Morbihan! Thanks for reading me over the years folks; and enjoy the post as I do.

You reach all these places off the expressway N165 then exit for Larmor Baden, on the roads D316, then the D316A  , signs are well posted. You have Vannes bus system KICEO on line 23 that takes you here but never taken it ok. The best way here is the car, definitively a must to really enjoy the area.

Another day of going into the wonderful Golfe du Morbihan or Gulf of Morbihan. Having my Dad in tow its an big effort but we manage to do it.  This is the area just to the west of Vannes, the area main city and seat of government in the  department 56, region of Bretagne. We started our morning going to Larmor-Baden , a nice harbor city with passenger boat service to the outer islands, and market day today, Sunday. Many picturesques hilly streets and beautfiful home before reaching the harbor or port area. Many homes for rent vacation properties in this area, very nice, and the port area with nice restos overlooking the harbor. Boats do go out to the outer islands very frequently in summer.

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lamor-baden-bayWe then move on to Port Blanc, where direct boat trips to the gulf is done, very frequently in summer. The main island just in front is the Iles aux moines, an island first inhabited by monks. Now a very nice vacation hotspot with beautiful beaches. The area has a boardwalk with bakeries, restos and ticket offices for boat passenger rides. A great parking is nearby just before reaching the port area, and its free.

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The choices are endless,and families especially are welcome. The surfing, jet ski, canoeing, kayak crowds are also very welcome as these are prime location for its practice.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here are:

The city of Larmor-Baden on things to see: https://www.larmorbaden.com/tourisme/sites-a-visiter

The Gulf of Morbihan Tourist office on Larmor-Badenhttps://www.golfedumorbihan.bzh/explorer-vannes/decouvrir-vannes/golfe-morbihan/autour-golfe/larmor-baden/

The Morbihan dept 56 tourist office on Port Blanchttps://www.morbihan.com/ile-aux-moines/port-de-plaisance-de-l-ile-aux-moines-port-blanc/tabid/12419/offreid/f59dd83a-2aa8-4dac-9934-6a36cb5e6d04

Enjoy the coastal beaches and wonders of the Morbihan.  A visit to quant small Larmor-Baden and Port Blanc is very nice indeed. And remember, happy travels , good health,and many cheers to all!!!

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May 13, 2021

Let me introduce you to Plouharnel!

And again doing this wonderful idea of updating older posts in these difficult times for most if not all. I like to take you a nice post me think about a find and introduce you to Plouharnel! It’s another gem in my beautiful Morbihan! Hope you enjoy it!

Ok as usual, have written on this town in previous posts briefly but it really deserves posts of its own. I pass by it almost every weekend when I am not traveling out of France as it is just south of me in the peninsula of Quiberon just before the isthmus. I like to introduce you to Plouharnel.

Plouharnel is a town in my beautiful Morbihan Department 56 of my lovely Bretagne. This town is located at the bottom of Quiberon Bay, 3 km from Carnac.   The coastline of the town is part of the largest cordon of dunes of Brittany which stretches from the point of Gâvres to the Fort of Penthièvre on the town of Saint-Pierre-Quiberon.

Notes of history tell us that on July 16, 1795, a battle between Chouans (rebels against the French revolution ) and Republicans ( French Republic revolutionaries) took place west of Plouharnel and South of Carnac, it was named the battle of Plouharnel. There were seven Mills in Plouharnel, including Kerloguen, Kergonan, Pero, Kerfourchelle, Pont-Neuf, Glevenay and the Bego tidal mill; the only surviving today is Glevenay.

On the territory of the town of Plouharnel there are an important set of megalithic monuments from the Neolithic period such as the dolmen in the Chapel of Cosquer; a corridor dolmen at the Chapel of Saint Anthony ;a corridor dolmen in Crucuno the rectangular cromlech of Crucuno, called “quadrilateral of Crucuno” a menhir in the enclosure of Crucuno; a corridor dolmen at Kergavat;   a corridor dolmen at Kerroc’h, three corridor dolmens in Rondossec , a corridor dolmen in Runesto, a menhirs alignment at Sainte-Barbe, a menhirs alignment at Vieux Moulin. Other significant monuments here are the Chapelle Notre-Dame-des-Fleurs, 16C, Chapelle Sainte-Barbe, 16C, Abbaye Saint-Michel de Kergonan and Abbaye Sainte-Anne de Kergonan. (see posts)

As always, we went by car, and stop at nice Plouharnel ,which we have passed by and in city center but this time went to their plage Saint Barbe (Santa Barbara beach). Nice clean beach, althought more suited for surfers and kites folks ,lots of waves; the rest was nice. My co workers do surf here so it is very popular place for them. The Bay of Quiberon tourist office on Plouharnel surfing beacheshttps://www.baiedequiberon.co.uk/surfing-in-plouharnel

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We ,also, stop by the old Chapel of Ste Barbe  (Santa Barbara) which has a history of the Chouans rebels that were here camping with Gen Cadoudal back in 1795; they fought the French revolution. As many led you to believe that it was a revolution on the king and period, it was longer than that and not totally wipe out the resistance than until 1832. Before all the combattants were given pardon and titles given back, even some like Gen Cadoudal posthumously given Marshal of France! The Bay of Quiberon tourist office on the chapel : https://www.baiedequiberon.bzh/a-voir-a-faire/culture-et-patrimoine/chapelles-et-eglises/chapelle-sainte-barbe

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On the way back , I stop at the dolmen Mané Kerioned on the D768 road between Auray and Plouharnel, always pass by it and see, this time took pictures lol!! The stones here dates from more than 3500 years BC. Its a group of 2 dolmen stones standing side by side facing South, and a third one facing them; the longest one you need to kneeled but it is 10 meters long below the surface. It has several engraving hard to decipher even today, these were burial chambers….impressive!!. The limits are given to Carnac but they are really closer to Plouharnel.

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The Bay of Quiberon tourist office on Plouharnel: https://www.baiedequiberon.co.uk/plouharnel

My fav plages tv webpage on the beaches of Plouharnel: https://en.plages.tv/seaside-resorts/plouharnel-56340a

The city of Plouharnel on its heritage: http://www.mairieplouharnel.fr/fr/information/87929/histoire-patrimoine

There you go folks, a nice town to visit with history all around you and nice beach in Plouharnel. You can look the sights in my other posts, and hope you enjoy this introduction.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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May 13, 2021

La Roche Bernard, boating, history and the sea!!

Now I am taking you to the extremity of my beautiful Morbihan towards Nantes and the rock of Bernard! This is boating heavens in a deep harbor with lots of history and great city center/downtown area. I am updating this older post on La Roche Bernard! Hope you enjoy as I.

It was time to use the best of the morning for a short ride to a town in the Morbihan I like too even if smallish.  The trip is about 53 minutes from my house and La Roche Bernard is a nice boater’s heaven full of history as well.  Again , so many places to see in my lovely Bretagne ,sometimes I find myself surprise of how far back was my last visit to a place. 

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La Roche Bernard , you reach it by the N165 to it, and once on the D765 you entered by the bridge or Pont de La Roche Bernard over the Vilaine river. The bridge was built in 1839,and it has 349 meters long of which 193 meters are hanging over the river with 6 meters wide. This bridge suffered the storms damaging it and it was replaced by a wooden passarelle until 1911.  Of which time a new steel bridge was built  measuring 350 meters long with 192 meters over water and 7 meters wide; the height over water level is 41 meters. After damaged during WWII a new bridge is built finally finished in 1960  . The current bridge is 407 meters with 245 meters over water and 84 meters over the river Vilaine . Once  over the bridge you entered the town and just follow Centre Ville and the parking La Vôute to go into the harbor where the big rocks are ,from where the town gets it’s name Roche=stone.

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We took a long walk along the cale on the river right underneath the bridge , and then a walk in city center to its wonderful history of Catholic and Protestant history, and the guillotine during the French Revolution in the main square place du Bouffay. Here you have the wonderful Auberge des Deux Magots and hotel. Webpage: https://www.aubergedesdeuxmagots.fr/

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One place not to miss other than seeing the boats and the artists on the trail from the 16C, that is marked by many of them is the Maison de l’Abeille or bee’s house; now open from April. All about honey which I love and get mine there all the time it is open !!! webpage: https://www.lamaisondelabeillelucas.fr/

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Another site I recommend when open from June is the museum maritime. The museum is divided into floors with the first one is dedicated to the history of the bridges, the street level is dedicated to Breton traditions on the Gulf of Morbihan, and the inferior level sort of second floor is dedicated to the boat La Couronne built here in 1629 on orders of Cardinal Richelieu to improve the naval defenses of France and participated in many battles including the best known as the Battle of Cardinals in 1759. It is also open from June to September. The Damgan La Roche Bernard tourist office on the museum: https://www.damgan-larochebernard-tourisme.com/patrimoine-culturel/musee-de-la-vilaine-maritime-la-roche-bernard/

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You can see some nice architecture and history on the House of the Canon (16C, timbered house of the 15C, the oldest in the city, district Tower ‘ Isle which was refuge for Protestants, and later the Notre – Dame 16C. One I always stop by is the Church of Saint Michael or St Michel. This Church was built in 1633. In 1878, almost in ruins, the old Church is replaced by a new one with more space. The Church is of course in the square or Place Saint Michel. Another interesting town of the Morbihan Breton, a gem for boater’s lovers and seacoast aficionados. Great square esplanade by the harbor with plenty of quant restos and souvenirs shops.

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The harbor history and facilities on the passeport escales webpage: https://www.passeportescales.com/fr/port-la-roche-Bernard

And info on navigating the Vilaine river is here in French from the local regional govt. water resources,webpage: https://www.eptb-vilaine.fr/index.php/f-estuaire/59-la-navigation

The Damgan-La Roche Bernard tourist office: https://www.damgan-larochebernard-tourisme.com/lieux-incontournables/la-roche-bernard-petite-cite-de-caractere/

You will have a good time in La Roche Bernard and enjoy the wonderful harbor with its many sailing boats dotted all over! And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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May 13, 2021

Ville Close of Concarneau!!!

And this one is a dandy for sure. I am updating folks, a wonderful experience during these times that have proven to be a wonderful experience to revive these wonderful older posts on my travels. Hope you are enjoying them as I This time will take you to the enclosed city of Concarneau or ville close!

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I am taking back into time and a fortified city with ancient walls and full of life now. Lovely and enchanting all around it. This is the Ville Close of Concarneau. Again, written briefly on it on several of my posts on Concarneau but feel deserves a post of its own. Of course , this is in the Finistére dept 29 of the lovely region of Bretagne.

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The walled city of Concarneau is a fortified city of the 15-16C built on an islet. It is the historical heart of the city, which has gradually developed around the islet.  You best reach it by car, along the N165 expressway motorway on the line Nantes-Brest. Get off at exit/sortie coat cong no 51 on the road ,and go down on the road D70 to city center. However, i do it several ways ,and for me the most scenic way is to get off at Kérandréo exit 48 on the road D4 you go past Pont Aven (see post) ,then follow signs on the road D783, much nicer ride me think!

A bit of history I like

According to the legend, it is Concar who would have liberated the site occupied by the current city close (Ville Close) of the Picts to base the city of Concarneau. Around the 10C, a Priory was established by the monks of the Abbey of Landévennec on the basis of some houses already present on the upper part of the islet. Traces of a 13C tower and a 14C wall found near the Tour du Fer à Cheval (Horseshoe Tower) confirm the existence of a medieval enclosure. It was probably Duke Jean II who built this first stone enclosure surrounding the islet around 1285. At that time, a community of bourgeois, traders and fishermen lived in the city.

The city now closed becomes a stronghold of Brittany and the stakes of rivalries between English and French, especially during the War of Succession of Brittany during which the Englishmen, who came to help Jean de Montfort, took the city in 1342. In 1373, after thirty years of English occupation, Olivier du Guesclin, took over the city on behalf of the King of France Charles V and chase the English out. In 1488, after the battle of Saint-Aubin-du-Cormier, the closed city (Ville Close) passed into the hands of the King of France Charles VIII, before being taken over by the Bretons. In 1489, Jean II of Rohan siege the city closed and takes over the islet in the name of the King. Duchess Anne de Bretagne, to counter the French influence on the Duchy, appealed to the English who occupied the city until 1495.

Concarneau becomes a Royal court with a right of provost and one of the 42 cities of Brittany to send a member to the States General of Brittany. In July 1619, King Louis XIII, dissatisfied with the Governor of Concarneau, ordered the Governor of Brittany to take control of the city. Until the French Revolution, Concarneau, in addition to the garrison, had a population of fishermen who had a few dozen rowboats. The fishing mainly consisting of the pressed ,dried or smoked sardines, is then shipped by boat to Saint-Malo, Nantes, La Rochelle, or even Bordeaux and by cart to the cities of the Interior. During the industrial revolution, the city is transformed with bourgeois houses  built along the docks outside the closed town (ville close).

Between the mid-19C and the middle of the 20C, the closed city (ville close) was also the subject of the attention of the painters known as the “Concarneau group”. The Chapel-Hospital of the Trinity, located in the walled city, is a victim of a fire in 1917, but a wealthy American, Katerine Wylie, finances its reconstruction in 1924 as a hospital-dispensary. The building subsequently became a maternity ward until the construction of the Porzou maternity in the early 1970’s.

A bit on the architecture and history of the Ville Close itself, enclosed city of Concarneau!

The ville close, or fortified city ,only 380 meters on its longest stretch and  100 meters on it average widest point.  See the nice church of Saint Guénolé, built in 1830. It was partially destroyed in  1937, and now only remains the facade and the base of the belltower. Inside you can see the cannons from the ship Venus now on displayed, get up on the tour du gouvernor, The belltower or Beffroi  done in 1906 on the old guard post lookout, that can be seen from outside and nice quaint from the inside, and of course the ramparts, (this time close due to the windy weather). The other attraction not stop this time but very nice and worth the trip is the museum of fishing or musée de la Pêche, main entrance inside the ville close. A wonderful unique place to see the fisherman life, boating and fish industry of the area.

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See the granite houses along rue Vauban, very nice architectural insight into the area and its inhabitants, as well as the nice Chapelle de l’Hôpital de la Trinité done in the 15C.  in the 16C Concarneau had a Chapel Hospital.  It was dedicated to the holy trinity. Its two halls could welcome several sick men and women. The halls gave direct access to the chapel, and from their bed could do their daily routines, it was to care for the homeless ,however by the 19C the hospital was in ruins. Only remained the wooden door facing rue Vauban. We can today admire the door in pillars and cap in stones and on top the blason or idenity shields of the founding lords. To the right of the door, there is a modest statue of St Guénolé done in 1954.

The ramparts, in their contemporary form, girders the walled city over a total length of about 980 meters. The closed city extends from East to West in its largest length over 380 meters and 220 meters in its largest width (North-South) and on a 60 meters in its minimum width. The ramparts made of local granite have an average thickness between 2.5 and 3 meters. Their machicolations date from the 15C. The main entrance of the closed city (ville close) is protected by a first raveling enhanced by a parapet crenate. The latter is connected to the half-moon by a sleeping bridge. These structures are interconnected by a set of six wooden bridges, three drawbridges and three sleeper bridges.  The ramparts are drilled by eight towers (nine if you count the Horseshoe). Starting from the tower located close to the main entrance, one counts in the direction of a clockwise rotation.

The Governor’s Tower or tour du Gouverneur (circa 1477-17C) it hosts the House of the captains and the Governor of the city. Vauban strengthens and walks the structure to support an artillery platform. At the beginning of the 18C, a spur was added to the base of the tower. The tower of the Major or tour du Major (14-17C), the primitive structure of the Tower of the major dates from the 14C, the front is of the 17C. It is mainly composed of a low room serving as ammunition depot especially for powder barrels and protected by a lookout corridor. Upstairs is the major’s Firehouse. The New tower or tour Neuve 16C also called the Powder Mills tower or tour du Moulin à Poudre, it is built to protect a section of the ramparts more vulnerable at low tide. The Gate to the Wine tower or  tour de la Porte au Vin dates from the last quarter of the 15C. The Passage tower  or tour du Passage probably dated from the 15C, it is located in a strategic location. The tower of the harbor of the dogs or tour du Port aux Chiens, 16C, also called the “tour de l’essence”. The Horseshoe  or Le Fer à Cheval dated from the 16C, it was block in the 19C. Restoration works uncovered the remains of a 13C tower.  The Tower of the Moors, or tour du Maure,dated from the 15C, it is pierced by three archers gunboats. The tower of Fortune, or tour de la Fortune is one of the oldest towers of the closed city. Pierced by three archers, it is also called the Masson tower or tour du Masson . The door of the Thieves or porte des Larrons, 15C, located near the square of the thieves or carré des Larrons, this door takes its name from the thieves who were driven by barge on the other side of the shore, in the passage, to be hanged there. Walled for several centuries, it was reopened in 1991. The gate to the wine or porte au Vin ,15C, this door opened on the first commercial port. A wharf is built in 1891 in the outside extension of the gate, along the ramparts to satisfy the fishermen. The gate of the passage (19C) or  porte du Passage, the wall is pierced at the end of the 18C to facilitate access to the passage. The door itself dates back to the time of Louis-Philippe (1830-1848). The Governor’s House ,or  maison du Gouverneur, 17C, this building backed by the Governor’s Tower, serves as a house and an annex to the latter with which it communicates on two levels. No Governor actually occupied this dwelling, rented a time to a carpenter.

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The house of the major or Logis du Major (circa 1730) in the absence of the Governor of the city, the garrison is commanded by a major. The watch room or salle de guet above one of the main gates was reassigned in the middle of the 18C to house the major. The bodyguard, or  corps de garde rebuilt in 1694 in the half-moon to protect the second drawbridge.  The old Church of Saint-Guénolé was built in the 12C and today only remains its façade and its gable-bell. The Chapel of the Hospital (Trinity) from the 16C, the walled city (ville close) has a hospital chapel dedicated to the Trinity, by the French revolution; it is transformed into a decadaire temple. After the revolution the building became successively a parish church, a school, a house closed during WWI, and then a dispensary and finally a place of exhibition. From the primitive building, there is only visible the façade on rue Vauban. Several other remarkable buildings or structures to see as you walk about.

We were a bit late so we tried to eat  in the pl du 8 mai 1945, at the street alongside it, La Croisiére at 11 Avenue du Docteur Pierre Nicolas. This is family own serving delicious seafood/fish dishes and some meats.  There is a pleasant modern salle or room in the street level and a nice with great views on top looking towards the ville close and the pleasure boat marina, with a nicer terrace in good weather . All that with great food of mussels, fish, pizzas and white meats. We had dourade royale or sea bream type fish in sauce nantaise (butter sauce) and rissotto with mushrooms, a large pint of bitburger german beer, and a café gourmand (expresso coffee with small cakes panacotta, brownies, sweet meringue cookie), the rest had assortments of mussels rocquefort,curry, bretonne (bacon=lardon, onions, cream,and white wine), tea gourmand with the same as coffee,and more pints of beer bitburger,and a juice non alcoholic drink for the wife, all five for 120€. Just my number and the food was fantastic, the welcome very warm and the server from the marne dep 51 (Champagne) lol!!!No web just info at the tourist office : http://tourismeconcarneau.fr/sejourner/restaurants-concarneau/restaurants-traditionnels/

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here are:

The city of Concarneau on its history/heritagehttps://www.concarneau.fr/ville/mairie/concarneau-55/histoire

The Concarneau tourist office on the enclosed cityhttp://tourismeconcarneau.fr/?page_id=7430

The Finistére dept 29 tourist board on Concarneauhttps://www.toutcommenceenfinistere.com/decouvrir-concarneau

The Bretagne region tourist board on Concarneauhttps://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/quimper-cornouaille/concarneau/

Again a must to see I am telling you.  You must come, it is really nice and we are so lucky to live close to it. There is lots to do in Concarneau but the Ville Close is definitively our favorite.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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