Archive for March 29th, 2021

March 29, 2021

Archeology in Segobriga!!!

And as my updating moods continues in this critical period in the world, I bring you back to my beloved Spain. In my road warrior state of mind I was driving around what is the Province of Cuenca in the Autonomous region of Castilla La Mancha and heard on brochures of this place. Loving architecture and history so much, of course, we went there and glad we did! So let me tell you about Segobriga!!!

In my travels we swing by many areas as we love the road and the car, it gives you a much greater flexibity to see things anywhere. I have many tales of driving in Spain in my blog, however, passing north to south on the A40 Autovia de Castilla La Mancha and came in to this archeological site.  This is at Saelices and the site is Segobriga and the site remotely old ,its very interesting for a stop if you are into history and architecture as I am. I imagine families should be with older children like teens to fully get the time’s worth here.   The archaeological park of Segóbriga is the most important archaeological complex of the Spanish Meseta. From the 1C onwards, the city developed as it became an important communication node, an agricultural center ,and the administrative capital of a large territory, until its abandonment after the Muslim conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. The name Segobriga derives from the words sego meaning victory and briga meaning city fortress so it is assume the name would be The City of Victory.

A bit of history I like

From a few texts from the 3C BC to the 2C BC, the inhabitants of this area up to the Serranía of Cuenca (my base) were called Olcades, to the Alcarria and to the Guadalajara are the Lusones, and to Toledo are the Carpétans. Therefore, it is probable to think that the inhabitants of the area of this ancient city were either Olcades or Carpétans. After the Roman conquest in the early 2C B.C. during the Celtiberians Wars, Segóbriga became a city. After the Sertorienne war, between 80 and 72 B.C., the city became the center of all this part of the Meseta with the control of a vast territory.  At the time of the Visigothic, from the 5C onwards, Segóbriga was still a great city, with the presence of vestiges from several basilicas and a large necropolis . The bishops of the city went to various councils of Toledo, specifically the Third Council of Toledo in 589 and the Sixteenth Council of Toledo in 693. The beginning of its final exodus begins after the Muslim invasion of the Iberian Peninsula, where bishops and ruling elites fled to the north of Spain, seeking protection from the Christian kingdoms, as was also the case for the neighbouring city of Ercavica, now Cañaveruelas in the province of Cuenca. After the Reconquest, the population of the surrounding area was moved to the present town of Saelices, located 3 km further north, near the source which fed the aqueduct and which provided the ancient city of Segóbriga with water. It was at this moment that a slow abandonment of the city began until there was only a small hermitage built on the ancient baths, the ultimate testimony of the ancient city preserved until today.

Some of the things you can see here are

From the Celtiberian period you have the Necropolis (outside the walls). From the Roman era: The wall and the North gate; the amphitheater, was built in front of the theater. The elliptical shape of the latter and its 75 meters in length make it the largest monument of the archaeological complex, with a capacity of about 5 500 spectators. The theater’s construction began at the time of Tiberius and probably ended during the reign of Vespasian, circa 79AD. The well-preserved bleachers were divided into three parts, separating the different social classes from the public.   The monumental baths; the gymnasium and the baths of the theater; the Forum; the Acropolis; the Rock Sanctuary of Diane (outside the walls); the Aqueduct (outside the walls), the quarries (outside the walls), the Circus (outside the walls). The most recent research has shown that this construction was carried out on a necropolis, but the building was never completed. From the Wisighote period is the Basilica Cabeza de Griego (Outside the walls) or the Greek’s head Basilica.

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At present, the ancient city is part of an archaeological complex, and the visit is subject to the payment of an entrance ticket. At the entrance to the park, a small museum was built to preserve the many parts that could degrade, such as some statues and mosaics, which, if exposed to the weather, can quickly deteriorate.

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You have plenty on the webpages below but mostly in Spanish so the contacts ,address, direction is here: Carretera Carrascosa de Campo a Villamayor de Santiago, s/n 16430  Saelices, Cuenca  (Castilla-La Mancha) the highway A3 Madrid-Valencia taking highway A40 (Autovia de Castilla La Mancha) at Tarancon and then exit 254 on the road CM310 to Segobriga. There is a small museum or interpretation center with a reception lobby, permanent exposition and audiovisual room tel +34 91 629 75 22 57 or email: segobriga@dipucuenca.es

The official webpage on the site of Segobrigahttp://www.segobriga.org/inicio.html

The Castilla La Mancha region on Segobrigahttp://en.www.turismocastillalamancha.es/patrimonio/parque-arqueologico-de-segobriga-763/descripcion/

The informative webpage of roman aqueducts on the site of Segobrigahttp://www.romanaqueducts.info/aquasite/segobriga/index.html

And there you go , another wonderful spot in my beloved Spain, and dream lands of Castilla la Mancha. This is wonderful country, and a nice spot to visit at Segobriga. Hope you enjoy it as I.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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March 29, 2021

Church of Saint Nicolas of Loudéac!

And need to updat this one, a anecdote of a town in the off the beaten path of my lovely Bretagne! The main sight here is the Church of Saint Nicolas and will tell you a bit about it. However, how I got here was that my company celebrated a finance team meeting at a local farm and this is how I found out about Loudéac! Later, as usual, I took the family for a visit. 

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However, some of these nice in country town needs a little recognition so here I will give you one. This one is up in dept 22 Côte d’Armor and the town is Loudéac.  You should take a look at something uniquely Bretagne; Loudéac is it.  Loudéac is up north in Brittany , at about 45 minutes from Vannes, 1 hour from Rennes and 2 hours from Nantes . Loudéac has a Gallo name Loudia and also a Breton name Loudieg.

A bit of history I like

Loudéac appears to be mentioned for the first time in the Cartulary de Redon (Locduiac) in 1075, as a donation from Viscount Janjua of Porhoët in favor of the abbey. Hunting in the forest of Brocéliande, it was only around the 11C that the foundation of Loudéac was truly recognized. A city renowned for its fairs and markets in the Middle Ages, it was a long time in the hands of the Dukes of Rohan. The 17-18C were prosperous thanks to the trade in canvases of Brittany which exported to America.

Loudéac is located at the crossroads of the N 164 (axe Rennes-Châteaulin) and the D700 (axis Saint-Brieuc-Vannes/Lorient). There are SNCF buses that takes you to the nearest train station at Saint-Brieuc, Rennes, Pontivy, Lorient, and Vannes. Aquarev, it is a leisure park of 30 ha, an area of walks, living on the edge of the town of Loudéac and its forest massif of 2500 ha. It has many activities for the whole family. One family attraction my boys have attended on school trips.  The Central Brittagny tourist office on Aquarec: http://www.centrebretagne.com/office-de-tourisme/decouvrir/natures-legendes/aquarev-a-loudeac.html

However, for the history and architectarilly inclined I am, the one thing worth a detour here is the Church.  That is the Church of Saint Nicolas.  The Church was built on the location of an older one. The first stone of the church is blessed on September 24, 1758. The work is done in 1765. The bell tower dates from 1743-1746 and the nave dates from 1758-1762. The choir dates from the 18C. The organs date from 1854. Its high-poster altar in carved wood and Carrara marble is nice. The ceremonial Cross , in wrought iron dates from the beginning of the 19C. The statues of St. Maurice and St. Nicolas, in marble, date from 1775. In the south altarpiece, the statue of the Virgin and the Child, in Polychrome wood, dates from the 14C. Nice for a small town indeed.

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The Central Brittany tourist office on the Church of Saint Nicolas:http://www.centrebretagne.com/office-de-tourisme/decouvrir/patrimoine/un-chapelet-dedifices-religieux/eglise-st-nicolas-a-loudeac.html

The city of Loudéac on the Church Saint Nicolashttps://www.ville-loudeac.fr/leglise-de-saint-nicolas/

As said, a small country town , Loudéac, but very lively good city center central on the way from south to north Brittany coasts, nice Church Saint Nicolas, and good local friendly service . Something to keep in mind traveling thru Brittany especially if by car.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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March 29, 2021

Cathedral of the Holy Trinity of Laval!!

And this town have written several posts but still me think is an off the beaten path town of my belle France. It should not be, just need to get out more, Laval is beautiful. I am updating older posts and it has been a wonderful ride of great emotions, and I thank you for reading me over the years keeping me company. I like to update for you and I the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity of Laval!!

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In my trips around France I have encountered with numerous wonderful surprises of great beauty, and this one is one of them. Ah yes ,the city of Laval is in the department of the Mayenne no 53  in the region of Pays de la Loire.  I came here because one of my previous boss was a native here and spoked gladly of his native city. This gave me to look up Laval, and as not too far from me decided to come. I have written before a nice spread out on the city, but need to make justice on their greatest assets, the Cathedral of the Trinity or Cathédrale de la  Sainte Trinité de Laval.

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A bit of history I like

Raised by the monks of the Couture of Le Mans around 1070, the Holy Trinity Cathedral was originally a dependency of the priory of Pritz. Having acquired the status of Parish Church of Laval in 1160, it then acquires a nave covered with imposing vaults of warheads of domed shape responding to the Gothic style Angevin or Plantagenet.  The Trinity experienced a phase of enlargement between 1485 and 1595, materialized by the construction of a left collateral illustrating the transition from the flamboyant Gothic style to that of the Renaissance. Becoming Cathedral of the Diocese of Mayenne in 1855, the Trinity sees its plan regulated by the addition of a portal of neo-Romanesque style, the laying of a frame with metal frame and the elevation of its cross-tower on the model of Saint-Germain des Prés of Paris. The Cathedral is located in city center between the squares Place Hardy de Lévare and Place de la Trémoille.  During the French revolution, the Church was looted, but the destruction remained minimal. The prosecutor of the town of Laval, presides over this devastation and its transformation into a Temple of reason for the worship of Reason and a Supreme Being: it is said that he took pleasure in hitting the statues and ornaments himself, to break them. Among the statues that decorated the Trinity inside and outside, that of the Blessed Virgin alone was spared. It was transformed into a Statue of Liberty.

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Some of the wonderful details on the architecture I can tell you are

The Holy Trinity Cathedral presents an irregular Latin cross plan. The nave kept its dimensions from the 11C, but it was largely altered in the 12C, with the addition of Gothic vaults. It has only one vessel and three square bays. The remains of the 11C Church are scarce, and the Cathedral has few Romanesque traces. The last most visible elements are the arch separating the nave from the transept, as well as the berry passages that frame the present transept dating from the 16C and 19C. It is not in the same location as the Middle Ages transept, which disappeared during the extension of the choir. Indeed, it was behind the grand arc Romanesque, while the present transept is in front. It therefore reuses the last span of the nave, which acts as a cross-aisle of the transept. The chorus is the result of multiple extensions and it is the part of the cathedral that has the least coherence. There are only a few pillars of the Romanesque bedside, and the general structure is given by the bedside built in the 15C. The bell tower, of square construction, is located on the crossroads of the transept, a place it occupies since the 11C. The current building dates to its lower part of the 12C instead, a top floor was built in 1905. It is granite and it is also opened by geminate berries, but they are wider than those of the 12C.

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The big Gate. In 1597 a monumental portal was built with the use of ancient pilasters, Columns, pediments…etc. The original statues, which disappeared during the French revolution, were replaced in 1853 by work made in terracotta of the Agêts, and representing Saint Benedict and Saint Bernard, the Popes Saint Léon the Great and Saint Gregory the Great, Saint Augustine and Saint Ambrose. These statues were replaced in August 2010 by copies for conservation reasons. At the foot of the gate, a double-flight staircase was built in 1734. Six tapestries of the manufacture of Felletin, end of the 17C, cover the walls of the nave. They illustrate Judith’s book.  The central picture represents the mystery of the Holy Trinity: three equal globes arranged in a triangle illuminate the Virgin kneeling, surrounded by the 12 apostles.  Below in a niche, the Holy Trinity: God the Father Blessing, the son holding a cross and above them the dove of the Holy Spirit. On both sides, in niches, Saint Peter carrying the keys and St. John the Evangelist. On either side of this altarpiece, built in the middle of the 17C, are the terracotta statues of St. Francis and Saint Clare of Assisi of the 17C as well. These tapestries were made during the second half of the 17C they were probably made for the Benedictine convent which was in the Place de Hercé before the revolution.

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The portals of the transept are the most remarkable. The 16C presents the transition between Renaissance art and Classical style. It presents ancient registers and ornaments, such as Corinthian columns and enlargements, but also medieval details, as the Romanesque arch that overcomes the Cathedral door has a number of elements of the 18C, such as the Tribune, which dates from 1770. It supports the organ and has a wrought iron guardrail on Corinthian columns. Underneath, the oval baptistery in red marble dates from the same time. The crucifix that faces the pulpit is also of the 18C, it is made of polychrome wood. The chair dates from 1803. The Cathedral contains a second marble altar, dating back to 1554. This is perhaps the first marble work ever done in Laval the Tribune organ is a gothic-styled Coll. It was purchased after a subscription launched in 1852. The original great organ was sold.

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Before the French revolution, the Holy Trinity Cathedral had thirteen altarpieces. Only the great altarpiece has survived the great altarpiece is characteristic of the Laval school which developed in the 17C and radiated throughout the west of France. It has three floors, the big work in limestone, while the columns and inlays are in marble. The ensemble consists of terracotta statues representing St. John, St. Peter and the Trinity. The set is eight meters high.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip to the Holy Trinity Cathedral, and is worth the detour, are:

The Laval tourist office on its history/heritagehttp://www.laval-tourisme.com/en/discover/laval-ville-d-art-et-d-histoire-town-of-art-and-history

The Laval tourist office on the Cathedralhttp://www.laval-tourisme.com/en/religious-heritage/cathedrale-notre-dame-de-la-trinite-236082

A wonderful gem of the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Laval, that should be visited in nice medieval Laval.  Hope you enjoy the revise post as I.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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