Archive for March 18th, 2021

March 18, 2021

Church Notre Dame de la Tronchaye!!!

This is a wonderful old church in one of our favorite towns of the Morbihan dept 56 . We come here often and not missed a Christmas market event since in the area back in 2011! Let me tell you about another gem the Church Notre Dame de la Tronchaye in Rochefort en Terre! Hope you enjoy it as we do.

Well I am updating a post from 2019 but realised have not written nothing more on this wonderful monument so will include new text and pictures. Again ,the Church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Tronchaye is located in Rochefort-en-Terre, in my beautiful Morbihan dept 56 of my lovely Bretagne and in my belle France.

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According to legend, the Church Notre Dame de la Troncaye was built on the site where a statue of the Virgin breastfeeding the Child Jesus was discovered in the 12C. It is claimed that the statue was hidden in the trunk of a tree two centuries earlier, as the Vikings attacked the area. A stained glass window from 1927 recalls this legend.

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The primitive church, built to the south of the castle, on the slope of the land, probably dates from the 12C, a time when the lords of the place are beginning to figure in history. It was naturally Romanesque in style and had the shape of a Latin cross, with a square turret in the middle of the inter-transept. This plan is still that of the church from the beginning of the 20C, because the replacement of the new church for the old one took place only gradually.

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In 1498, Jean IV de Rieux-Rochefort founded, thanks to the 100,000 gold crowns he received from Anne of Bretagne (duchess and queen) , a college of seven canons to pray for the repose of the soul of the Lord and his family. . In the choir, you can still see their carved stalls. In 1925, Rochefort-en-Terre became a Marian city, which gave rise to the order of two new stained-glass windows: in 1926, the stained-glass window in the back chancel representing the Holy Family and in 1927, the stained-glass window of the shepherdess discovering the Virgin in a tree trunk.

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A bit of description on the Church of Notre Dame de la Troncaye tells us that the fortified tower of the transept crossing dates from the Romanesque chapel built in 1125. In 1533, the north facade was rebuilt in a flamboyant Gothic style. In 1610, a large altarpiece in polychrome stones installed, which is now located at the end of the choir. In 1865, the south side was restored. In 1887, the north facade was also restored. In 1898, the west gable was repaired and the gallery built. In 1922, the stone altarpiece finds its current place, whereas previously it replaced the old rood screen which separated the nave from the choir. The stained glass window of the Sacred Heart is installed on the east gable, and the stained glass window of the statue’s discovery is installed on the south side.

On the square stands a sculpted Calvary, nicknamed the Bible of the poor because it was used by priests to teach the Bible to illiterates. The sculptures are carved from granite. This Calvary would be the only one in Brittany to represent the Passion and Ascension of Christ. This is also where the Rochefort cemetery was located until the mid-19C.

I was once again in one of my favorite towns in Bretagne . This is a fairy tale town with medieval city center, small and cosy we love. The Church of Notre Dame de la Tronchaye is old quant and nice right in the lower town, and we never missed it. We go here often and especially around Christmas time, which they hold the best Christmas market (see posts) if not the best in all of Bretagne.

The town of Rochefort en Terre on the church: http://www.rochefort-en-terre.fr/la-collegiale/

The Rochefort en Terre tourist office on the church: https://www.rochefortenterre-tourisme.bzh/decouvrir/patrimoine-et-musees/patrimoine-bati-bretagne/?tif_r=ff81d3ef-b474-4555-88a4-45b2b3e8b0ef&Eglise-Notre-Dame-de-la-Tronchaye

The Morbihan dept 56 Tourist board on the church: https://www.morbihan.com/rochefort-en-terre/eglise-notre-dame-de-la-tronchaye/tabid/12562/offreid/ff81d3ef-b474-4555-88a4-45b2b3e8b0ef

There you go a magical beautiful old town in the Morbihan and a must to visit for sure. It’s Christmas market has appeared in several publications and French TV over the years. Wonderful can’t say more, see Rochefort en Terre! And a one stop to the Church of Notre Dame de la Tronchaye!!!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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March 18, 2021

The market at Lannion !

I have several posts in my blog on markets, we love them. Each time in a town we look for them and do shop as well. The freshest best of the very best of France are found there. Some are better than other of course , but they are all better than the other places to shop groceries, especially. One of these was in Lannion , little known but a wonderful place to be in and shop. Therefore, let me update the post and tell you about the pretty market at Lannion!

I have written on Lannion in my blog but believe not enough on this wonderful building that deserves more. Therefore ,here is a bit more to see in Lannion at the Halles or covered market and the open market around it, historically wonderful. Lannion is the Côtes d’Armor dept 22 of the region of Bretagne. It has the wonderful N12 road connecting Brest to Paris as well as a TGV train station.

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The big Lannion market is an institution! Every Thursday, at dawn, it takes over the city center or downtown, for the whole day. In the morning, honor is given to the regional food products, on the place de Général-Leclerc and in the adjacent streets. The first hour, on Thursday morning, the street vendors settle in the city center. In the morning, producers in the region offer for sale their mouth-watering products in the Place du Général Leclerc, rue Jean Savidan and rue Cie Barbé. On the Quai d’Aiguillon, rue Le Taillandier, rue des Chapelier, the other merchants take place for the whole day.  In the morning, from Tuesday to Saturday. For one hundred years, the stalls of the central halles have the famous fresh products of the land and the sea. This is a wonderful building indeed and deserves more and a visit ,the halles of Lannion.

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The first halles of Lannion were born in the Middle Ages and were rebuilt in 1697, on the order of the intendant of Brittany. These halles were private property of a noble who had a royal privilege which allowed him to collect the rights of haulage in exchange for the maintenance of the buildings. The halles belonged to the family Le Gualès from 1688 to the French revolution. The law of March 15, 1790 removes the royal privilege by prohibiting the collection of the rights of haulage for individuals. In 1822, the town of Lannion bought the halles. The new halles will operate on the Place du Centre throughout the 19C. The halles were demolished in 1832 and it was in 1905 that the town of Lannion decided to build the halles that we know today. The work of the zinc frame and the glass cover are given to several merchants that needed coordination, and the inauguration of the halles of Lannion originally scheduled for October 15, 1907, will finally take place on November 1, 1907.

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The hours are Tuesday to Saturdays from 8h to 13h with Fridays in addition open from 14h30 to 19h30.  A bit of info on the city of Lannion webpage here:  https://www.lannion.bzh/ville-educatrice/89-vie-quotidienne/118-les-halles-de-lannion

More info I gather at the Hôtel de Ville, Place du Général Leclerc , Lannion. Tél : +33 2 96 46 64 22 : Fax +33 2 96 37 17 03. Mondays to Fridayas from 8h-12h , and 13h30 -17h30 as well as Saturdays from 9h- 12h.

The Côtes d’Armor tourist board on the Halles of Lannion markethttps://www.cotesdarmor.com/fr/fiche/degustation/les-halles-de-lannion-lannion_TFODEGBRE022V51D3YS/

The Brittany tourist board on Lannionhttps://www.brittanytourism.com/destinations/the-10-destinations/pink-granite-coast-morlaix-bay/lannion/

And there you go, a nice shopping spree up north with plenty of wonderful monuments to see too, look up my previous post on nice Lannion.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!

March 18, 2021

Créperie Saint Sauveur at St Goustan!!!

I like to update this memorable spot forever. As we came to live in this area we road warrior a lot but also walked a lot in towns. Auray was no exception and walked it we did. Coming upon the lower town or the port of Saint Goustan and its meandering narrow steep cobblestones streets we hit this restaurant; the créperie Saint Sauveur! It has been our central eatery and already good friends with the owners which we have even encountered doing the groceries! Of course, hightly recommended. 

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So taking you back closer to home and the historic wonderful Auray of my beautiful Morbihan 56 in my lovely Bretagne, and my belle France. This is even better at the wonderful district or lower town of Saint Goustan, a port!  I like to tell you about one I have mentioned briefly in previous posts several times but it is worth mentioning on a single post. As we lived close to Saint Goustan when we first entered the Morbihan ,we took our weekend road warrior spirit to check out the area. While coming to Saint Goustan we felled in love with the place and spent time on it. Moving up from the Place Saint Sauveur we came upon a hilly cobblestone street and voilà we found the Créperie Saint Sauveur!

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The owners husband and wife were very friendly welcoming us to the area talking about everything with us. We came to know them well and now with two little kids in tow the wife spends more time at home and the husband in charge with staff help. We come across them several times while doing our groceries in the market or hypermarket! A very personal photo one of the best of my dear late wife Martine, she enjoyed coming here and talking a lot with the owners (taken order) ; memories never to be forgotten.

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I have taken my French family here and visiting friends and all came out with the same good feelings of the place which of course I highly recommend to all! The Créperie Saint Sauveur is at  6 Rue Saint-Sauveur,  Auray ;however it is in the lower town in the port district of Saint Goustan.

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A bit of a unbiased description. The place really offers a very nice welcome, the products are fresh, of local quality and the dishes are succulent.  An efficient staff, very welcoming and really friendly (waiters and cook)! Excellent crepes all home made from Breton hands of very good quality used for their preparation. Original recipes from dish to dessert . All this for a very correct addition!  In an old house of historic appearance in the district of the port of Saint-Goustan,  in a warm and complicit atmosphere. The plates are simple and return with kindness the classics of the genre, which will be appreciated at competitive prices. Dynamics personnel and owners. A must to visit!

The official webpage of the Créperie Saint Sauveurhttps://www.creperie-saint-sauveur-auray.fr/

The Bay of Quiberon tourist office on the Créperie Saint Sauveurhttps://www.baiedequiberon.bzh/preparer-son-sejour-en-baie-de-quiberon/savourer/restaurants/creperie-saint-sauveur

My fav YELP on reviews which I am in it since 2004 (see bottom front page my blog)  on the Créperie Saint Sauveurhttps://www.yelp.com/biz/cr%C3%AAperie-saint-sauveur-auray

You will do good to come here when in the area, the Créperie Saint Sauveur has grown in popularity thanks to its good local products, great making of the owners and their friendly open attention to all. Enjoy it as we do!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

March 18, 2021

Matadero, Madrid of course!!

Well I am going to update this post from our last visit to Madrid in August of 2019. It is unique me think and need to tell you more about the Matadero or slaughterhouse lol! Oh yes they can be creative there too. I have to admit , when lived in the city it was not done, when if was finally done, my interest was not for it. As years went by and keep coming with the family I finally took my curiosity to see it with the boys. Therefore, here is the Matadero of Madrid!

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This was not there when I lived in the city and over the years have become a magnet for cultural events and concerts. I will dwell into the Matadero of Madrid, a place the young as my sons enjoy much.  The Matadero and Municipal Cattle Market of Madrid, also known for its primary use during its period of operation and for its location as Municipal Slaughterhouse of Legazpi or Municipal Slaughterhouse of Arganzuela, was a set of forty-eight buildings dedicated to perform slaughterhouse functions industrial and livestock market in the city of Madrid during the central decades of the 20C!.

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Initially it was bounded by the Paseo de la ChoperaCalle Vado de Santa Catalina, the canalization of the Manzanares River, and the Paseo de Santa María de la Cabeza, in the district of Arganzuela. The land had twelve hectares of built surface with several buildings of Neomudéjar architecture typical of the industrial architecture of the transition from the 19C to the 20C. It was built at the beginning of the 20C in an area that was then depopulated in Madrid in response to the needs of the growing population of the city and as a replacement for the old slaughterhouse in Puerta de Toledo. Between 1932 and 1933, the construction of an additional building with functions of slaughterhouse of fowls and chickens.

At the beginning of the 1980s, it was decided to concentrate the functions of the complex in the south zone of the complex, and there was the remodeling and change of use of several of the dependencies that were left free in the north zone: the Pabellon de Direccion or adm bldg (known currently as Casa del Reloj,(see post) transformed into the seat of the Municipal Board of the district of Arganzuela); the old cattle stables, in which the permanent headquarters of the National Dance Company (CND) and the National Ballet of Spain were located; or the old cattle stable (later Nave de Patatas), which became a set of greenhouses that reproduce the climate of tropical and subtropical areas as the Palacio de Cristal de Arganzuela (see post).

The Matadero or slaughterhouse was in operation for almost six decades until 1996, afterwar the facilities were left unused until in 2003 it was decided to transform it into a cultural space known as Matadero Madrid, which opened its doors in 2007. The underground of the M-30 beltway and the creation of the Madrid Río park also impacted on the environment of the old facilities, as the starting point was made in the plot of the Matadero park, which made disappeared the Dalieda (dahlias park). After the end of the works, all the land that had made up the Matadero Park was integrated into Madrid Río.(see post).

The proposals for alternative uses of the space were happening: Museum of Architecture, municipal libraries, multiplexes, shopping center, etc. In the 1990s, the old cattle stables were transformed into the headquarters of the National Ballet of Spain and the National Dance Company. The renovation and cultural transformation operations were linked within the so-called Baroque Trident formed by the Paseo de las Delicias, the Paseo de Santa María de la Cabeza and the Ronda de Atocha  Initially 48 buildings were built on the grounds of the slaughterhouse and the market, which later increased to 64 in 1921. The materials used corresponded to those used in the monuments of Madrid: Berroque stone in plinths, exposed brick and masonry discovered abroad. The walls have the style of the Toledo rig typical of Castile. The style resembles the Werkbund  with clear traces of Neomudéjar style.  The inclusion in the middle of the year 2011 in the Madrid Rio Park makes the Matadero a Cultural Space within a park located on the banks of the Manzanares River between the Puente de los Franceses (Bridge of the French, we walked to it)  and the South Knot. The cultural space dedicates its facilities to temporary exhibitions, design and theatrical activity. These are:

Aves Matadero (birds), an institution born in March 2017 and whose artistic direction is a space in which the performing, visual arts, literature, philosophy, cinema, music and transmedia activities are interconnected in an interdisciplinary program. The theater section occupies three central warehouses lined with rectangular plan and interconnected with each other warehouses 10, 11 and 12.

Intermediæ and Lobby, this is a space created and prepared for open interaction and cultural dialogue between the cultural activities of the Matadero and citizens. It is an experimental center for contemporary creation funded in part by the General Directorate of Cultural Projects of the Community of Madrid. It is located on the right, as you enter, along the Paseo de la Chopera.

Central del Diseño (Design central). This is a space dedicated to the exhibition dissemination and promotion of projects related to graphic, industrial and interior design. Like Intermediæ, it opened in November 2007.

Factoria Cultural or Cultural Factory, It is a space dedicated to incubator of new companies: nursery of cultural and creative industries. It has its place in the warehouse 1 of Matadero that overlooks the Paseo de la Chopera, and its surface is  of about 400 m²

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 Open x Works: It is located in the former cold chamber of the Matadero (slaughterhouse)  occupying part of the oreo warehouse, hangers and refrigerating section that overlooks the Paseo de la Chopera. This space presents an exhibition area with special features, black walls and low light, dedicated to national and international artists. It is in operation since 2007.

The Casa del Lector or House of the Reader of the Sánchez Ruipérez Foundation is an International Center for Research, Development and Innovation of Reading. It is a center located in the two warehouses whose purpose is the training, information and dissemination of the book and reading.

The Cineteca is a visual cinematheque  archive dedicated to non-fiction cinema. The 2688 m2 floor space of the Matadero Cineteca has been divided into five functions: two cinemas , a shooting set, and Documents Archive (the visual library), a cafeteria  and an adjacent terrace space that allows the possibility of film projections in the summer months. The Sala Azcona (named in honor of the Spanish screenwriter Rafael Azcona) is a movie theater with capacity for 250 spectators responsible for the dissemination of the work of Spanish and international filmmakers and television creators. This room is the one dedicated to the monthly premiere. A multipurpose room (Room B), with a capacity for 70 spectators, is located in the space around the Azcona Hall.

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Nave de Música or music warehouse. This is the space occupied until November 2011 by the Red Bull Music Academy (RBMA Radio) and which since 2012 hosts all the musical programming of the Matadero. It has among its resources a radio and recording studio, a stage for small concerts, and nine rehearsal rooms.

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Since the beginning of 2011, the Documenta Madrid archive has been installed in the area near the chimney. It allows to see any of the works sent to the festival in all its editions since 2004. Warehouse or nave 16 is a multipurpose exhibition space, with 5913 m2. Due to its versatility, it can host presentations, large exhibitions, concerts, work production workshops, talks, scenic proposals or social activities.

The official Matadero of Madrid webpage: https://www.mataderomadrid.org/

The Madrid tourist office on the Mataderohttps://www.esmadrid.com/en/tourist-information/matadero-madrid

And this is another dandy of Madrid that for the culturally inclined or concert goer should be a must to visit while in Madrid, remember, the Matadero they don’t kill anymore but show off the world of Spain. Hope you enjoy it!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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