Archive for February 27th, 2021

February 27, 2021

How about shopping in Versailles!!!

Ok not the most expert person for shopping… but did some in my lovely Versailles and would like to update the post on shopping in Versailles with new links. Hope you enjoy it and do shop in the city while visiting it, great combination indeed me think. This is a black and white series post as pictures in the many other posts on Versailles! Shopping something I would love to do there right now!!!

The question is ,how about shopping in Versailles?  Anyway, when most come to Paris and think that a thing to do IS to go to Versailles is not right. Paris is 75, Versailles is 78. Paris is the Capital of France, and Versailles by constitution is the de facto capital of France if changes or modifications are done to the constitution. Versailles is in another province/State/Department than Paris, that is Yvelines dept 78.  So, I worked in Paris but lived in Versailles, so I know the shopping from both sides. Versailles is the normal everyday town you love to live in ,yes!

One was on the wonderful shopping center mall of Parly II, the best mall in the whole region of île de France in my opinion. Even if actually is the town next over Le Chesnay-Rocquencourt. Here you have the main department stores like in that other town, Au Printemps and BHV as well as Lenôtre, and many many other stores even a Toys R Us and Truffaut, and FNAC as well as grocery store and cinema. The now Westfield Parly II mall webpage: https://fr.westfield.com/parly2/stores

The Parly II is a housing complex chic Chesnay-Trianon , the biggest division housing in Europe with an extension on two neighboring towns ,Le Chesnay and Rocquencourt (now join as one town); and the mall, it is also, the high school for my boys in the town of Le Chesnay that is just crossing a street to Versailles and uses the same transport network. It now has 182 stores with over 4000 parking spaces! The Parly II housing webpage: https://www.parly2.com/

In fact,the story tell us that the center was to be called Paris 2 but the Parisians objected for fear of losing business, so the name of Parly was used instead ( a town in the dept Yonne ,region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté). The idea really is to do something on the American style mall/living. You can reach it on the Phébus network of Versailles on lines 1 2 3 5. Also, line 19 of Transdev will get you there from the stop terminal at the avenue Saint Cloud just before the Ave de l’Europe bus depot and direction Les Mureaux you stop at Parly II.

However, there is a lot more than just a mall. Plenty of nice stores some very historical all over town in inner Versailles. Some already with posts and pictures in my blog.

The marché des fleurs is open Tuesdays, Fridays, Saturdays from 8h to 19h and Sundays mornings. This is at corner of Ave de l’Europe and Ave de Saint Cloud.  Further away you come to my favorite of all markets the Marché Notre Dame of course at the Place Notre Dame. The non food market is held Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 11h to 19h, and the food markets out on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays mornings from 7h to 14h , and inside the halles on Tuesdays to Saturdays from 7h to 19h30 and Sundays from 7h to 14h. Plenty of underground parking too. The Sun King Louis XIV gave us the Marché de Notre Dame in 1721. the actual place was given out after the Domaine de Clagny built in 1665 was demolished. It was renovated with todays halles in 1841. It is the center of the city, if you want to know us! The stories tell us the first inhabitants of the city started arriving in 1671 and so did the market!

The city of Versailles on the Notre Dame market (mine!!!) : https://en.versailles-tourisme.com/notre-dame-market.html

The city of Versailles on the Flower market (yes!! ours) : https://en.versailles-tourisme.com/flower-market.html

And right around here you have the Place du Notre Dame with plenty of shops and restaurants as well. Ahh but wait, did you know the market at Place du Notre Dame is older than the castle? And the halles that surround it are 360 years old? Located in the heart of the city around the Place du Notre Dame and two big streets crossing in a cross the square such as rue de la Paroisse, and Avenue du Maréchal Foch; then you have streets all around the halles such as rue Durcis,rue au pain, Rue de la Pourvoierie, and rue André Chenier ,all founded by king Louis XIV. The old pavilions were destroyed in 1841 and replaced by the covered halles you see today on the method Baltard.

About 20 years ago you can buy here in wholesale, where the store owners came to buy their products that eventually will sell to you in retail. They will buy their products by aisles such as fish, herbs/spices, flour,and beef and these gave the name to the covered halles you see today. There was even an animal market with cows, pigs, and chickens sold.  However, even the above is newer. There was an even older market here when in November 1634, on the initiative of Martial de Loménie ,king Louis XIII ordered installed a market here, even replacing an even older market. In August 1740, there were manifestions here due to the little finding of wheat, the bakers of Paris came here to buy flour and the locals repulse them strongly. A permanent presence of the Swiss guards was needed.

At the French revolution, the market falls in disrepair by 1835 the market is purchase by the city of Versailles; no longer part of the Royal domain, the merchants are taken their businesses and poorly indemnized. Several execution were carried out here. And after going in terrible shape the city eventually rebuilt them and the new market opened September 15, 1842.  There is a parking managed by Vinci Park underneath the place du Notre Dame with 700 spaces and the pedestrian access are on each square of the market with elevators/lifts or escalator. Since 2014, they have painted the square on the market with paintings or trompes-l’œil; they represent the knights of the Carrousel, reminding us of the equestrian history of the city, done by the school of mural arts or the École d’art mural de Versailles. 

The market is very close to another wonderful old world shopping experience that is the Passage des antiquaires. It is a pedestrian only passage of the rue des deux portes leading to the Place du Notre Dame and to the rue Carnot, itself next to the avenue de Saint-Cloud , and a bit further the Place d’Armes, in front of the central façade of the Palace/Museum of Versailles. The passage des Antiquaires webpage: http://www.antiques-versailles.com/le-quartier/le-passage/

I have to tell with pride, this was my district. The quartier Notre Dame, in the axis of the Avenue de Paris, and takes its name from the Church of Notre Dame, the castle parish and oldest (where all princes were baptized, birth certificates and marriages) created while the construction of the city was carried out under king Louis XIV. In this wonderful neighborhood or quartier you ,also, have the theater or Théâtre Montansier opening in 1777,the city history museum of musée Lambinet, the bailiffs mansion or Hôtel du bailliage that housed during the monarchy the local tribunal courthouse ; today the nice courtyard of the neighborhood of antiquaries ,and the shopping full streets of rue de la Paroisse, rue Hoche and the rue du Maréchal Foch.

The rue du Maréchal Foch, crosses the city north south and prolonged the Avenue de l’Europe, to continue until the Place Édouard Laboulaye. This was my train station or gare de Rive-Droite-Versailles! It went to Gare Saint Lazare in Paris.  Here you can find the merchants/businesses of Versailles with over 1700 you should find yours. In French, but easy me think. You go to the left hand side , you have three slots, Catégorie (category of stores you are searching such as antiquités/art), sous-catégorie (more in detail such as céramique but no need to choose this slot), and Quartier (district like Notre Dame).  Versailles commerces webpage: https://www.versaillescommerces.fr/marchands/

An interesting site the Cours des Senteurs (Court of Scents) with an offer on perfums like those in the Maison des Parfums, but also, fine gourmet grocery store, Toile de Jouy with fabrics in colorful motifs from a historical and famous manufacture. The restaurant Table du 11, not yet tasted but look good; and salon de thés with sweets goodies; and from here you can access the Salle du jeu de Paume, birthplace of the founding act of the French democracy, quaint streets of the district of Saint Louis, and into the Potager du Roi vegetable garden of the king. More in the Versailles tourist office: https://en.versailles-tourisme.com/garden-and-court-of-scents.html

The above and more are in the other district Saint Louis on commerces/businesses webpage: http://versaillescotesaintlouis.com/les-commerces-adherents-a-versailles-cote-saint-louis

The Versailles tourist office has more info on the several shops/businesses in town here: https://en.versailles-tourisme.com/the-best-shopping-districts-in-versailles#!/page/1

Of course, this cannot be all of them, will need a series of posts. I have given you above the most important me think and links to see others. And bien sûr if have a question on any let me know.  Hope you enjoy the ride to a Royal , magnificent city, that is a lot more than a castle. My VERSAILLES!!

And remember, happy travels, good health ,and many cheers to all!!!

February 27, 2021

My beloved ,memorable, sentimental Honfleur!!!

So I am coming back to update/revise links on this beloved, memorable ,sentimental Honfleur of ours. We came here as many to seek the arts and the ocean breeze along its cobblestones streets and its festivals. Over the years the family took a loving liking to the town, and yes my mom and wife lies off the sea here so we come at least once a year . Let me tell you a bit more about Honfleur, Calvados , Normandy in my belle France!

There has been many ,but this is one I am never tired of writing on it. Brief, the town is historical glorious, quant , old, turn to the sea, architecture, and just great family memories.  I have been coming here for years since first encounter my Frenchie, and my parents especially my mother love it. At the end, and many nice stories there are always some sad ones, that is human life I am afraid. My mom Gladys passed away on December 27, 2007 , just after Christmas and my wedding anniversary; and was her wish to be deposit at sea her ashes here, and so I did. Lately, I have gone thru the sad times again of losing my dear loving wife Martine ,last April 30 2018 and on her last days , her wish was to be deposit here too at Honfleur. And so I did, as always with the lifeguard SNSM on August 24 2018 with the same lifesaving boat the Notre Dame. Eventually, we all will rest in peace here.

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So, Honfleur is more than just a spot, a tourist spot, a town or a visit; it is more personal. One of the spots that is dear to us is up the hill or plateau of Grace or Côte de Grâce and into the quant old Notre Dame Chapel and its outdoor bells with a big Cross of Jesus Christ nearby overlooking the bay of Honfleur and across Le Havre. We come around to see the Mont Joli, or pretty mount with great, wonderful views of the area and the bridges afar Normandie and Tancarville. This is Honfleur .  On the plateau of Grace is one of the oldest sanctuaries in the region surrounded by secular trees. Located 1.5 km from the city/town center of Honfleur, the plateau de Grâce offers a panoramic view of the sea, the Seine estuary and Le Havre.

Right up the hill, sits the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Grâce on the limits of the village of  Équemauville, was built between 1600-1615 by the burghers and sailors of Honfleur, replacing an old Chapel that disappeared in a landslide of the cliff. This primitive Chapel was founded before the year 1023 by Richard II, Duke of Normandy, to fulfill a vow made during a storm in which he had almost perished. Since the cult of Our Lady of Grace has perpetuated.  Marble plaques and paintings perpetuate the memory of illustrious characters who came to this Chapel, such as Samuel de Champlain, Pierre Berthelot, king Louis XIII, Napoléon  Bonaparte, Saint Theresa Lisieux…etc.  Located on the heights dominating the town of Honfleur, but on the territory of Équemauville, houses ex-votos, models of boats and an organ made by the organ factor Dupont in 1990. On the outside you can see the bells of the pilgrimages. Our Lady of Grace Chapel has exceptional ex-votos. All the faithful who come to collect in the sanctuary are seized and surprised by the impressive number of plaques, models or inscriptions that testify to the general gratitude. All these ex-Votos have a story. Their presence symbolizes the success of a vow, a recommendation, a prayer.  Of course the protection of the sailors is a privileged place. But it can also be testimonials of recognition as a result of healing or the fulfillment of a happy event.

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Every year, Pentecost is the traditional Marines Festival or Fête des Marins during which it is possible to admire the colorful procession of the models of boats carried by the children from the place Sainte-Catherine to the Chapel Our Lady of Grace. The Chapel and the Grace Plateau, although located on the village of Equemauville, have been owned by the city of Honfleur since the French revolution. The interior Chapel of the Transept, on the left, is dedicated to all Canadians of Norman descent, in remembrance of the departure from this point of many settlers for Canada.   The small road that leaves to the left, behind the Chapel, leads to Mont-Joli, which is also located in the village of Equemauville . Mont-Joli dominates the city and offers a beautiful panorama of the Seine Valley and the Pont de Normandie (bridge) which connects Honfleur to Le Havre. Mont Joli dominates the city and offers a beautiful view  on a clear day you can locate even  the Pont de Tancarville (bridge), located at almost 30 km away.

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These are the nice stories, in addition there is the Sainte-Catherine taken for a ride , she is carried by locals into a small boat and goes out with a flotilla of fisherman’s and sailors, boats into the sea for a Mass by the Bishop. She is brought back into the Church on poles and the faithful walks the Grace plateau up hill carrying a Cross as the Way of Christ into the Our Lady of Grace Chapel (Notre Dame de Grâce) where there is another Mass carried out. Very moving scene on the Marines Festival day.

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The Honfleur tourist officehttps://www.honfleur-tourism.co.uk/

The city of Honfleur on its heritage/things to see: https://www.ville-honfleur.com/decouvrir-honfleur/

The Calvados dept 14 tourist office on Honfleur harbors: https://www.calvados-tourisme.com/offre/port-de-plaisance-dhonfleur/

The Normandy region tourist board on Honfleurhttps://en.normandie-tourisme.fr/unmissable-sites/honfleur/

And then you do what we do /like best walk the beat! And Honfleur is wonderful but of course cannot do all in one day so we rented a nice inexpensive chain of hotels here call B&B right at the entrance of the town! in the neighboring city limits of La Rivière-Saint-Sauveur! These are good for one or two nights and on my road warrior trips used them often. webpage: https://www.hotel-bb.com/fr/hotel/honfleur

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We had our lunch at a new found restaurant which we have been coming back here and nearby us in Lanester, these are the Oncle Scott American style restos which my whole gang enjoys very much. The old Miller beers and Sol as well as Baltimore crab cakes are worth the trip alone. Enjoy it ;webpage: http://www.oncle-scott.com/restaurants-country/

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And for dinner we again tried a new restaurant for the night  this was the La Fregate right in La Rivière Saint-Sauveur not far from the above hotel and on the main road to the old basin of Honfleur. The marmite de la mer was delicious!!! no webpage but on the city of La Riviére Saint-Sauveur it shows on the list of restos: http://www.larivieresaintsauveur.fr/fr/commerces/3

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In all , another memorable visit to Honfleur and there are plenty more in my blog and those pending to go when possible nowdays. Hope you enjoy the post and do visit the 2nd most visited site in all of Normandy! (for info 1st is MSM).

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

February 27, 2021

Quant little Honfleur!!!

And I have to come back to this memorable sentimental town of ours. So many posts and pictures, (see posts) I like to give it fresh life to this post in my black and white series. Honfleur is awesome in many ways! Enjoy the tour!

I will brighten up my mind writing about quant little beautiful ,etc etc Honfleur!  My dear late Mom Gladys and Wife Martine  love the town, and so much that they are buried at sea off Honfleur by the volunteer lifesavers of the SNSM boat Notre Dame base in Honfleur. I given some insights on the tourist spots and places to eat even hotels, now let me tell you a bit about the history I like.

Honfleur is a marvelous little town by the sea and the Seine river. The town is in the département 14 of Calvados in the region of Normandie, and located on the south bank of the estatuary of the Seine river facing Le Havre and on the ending of the bridge of Normandy. Often call an artists/painters town and with its own school. Many times represented in the work of Gustave Courbet, Eugène Boudin, Claude Monet ,and Johan Barthold Jongkind, forming the school of Honfleur, that contributes to the emergence of the impressionniste movement. The artists Alphonse Allais ,and Erik Satie were born here on the same street !

The first mention of Honfleur in writing dates back to Richard III duke of Normandy in 1027. It is known that by the middle of the 12C the town was an important trade point with England coming from Rouen via Seine river. Charles V ordered fortified the town to stop the English to come up the Seine river with the help of the port of Honfleur located just on the statuary of the river. However, nevertheless Honfleur was taken by the English and occupied in 1357 and again in 1419 and 1450.

Honfleur participated in the movement for great discoveries with a Jehan Denis visiting Labrador and Newfoundland that he took in the name of the king of France in 1506. These expeditions made the port of Honfleur one of the most important in France and served as launching pad for adventures in the French colonies of America such as the repeated sailings of Samuel de Champlain that ended by the founding of Québec in 1608. From this point on, commerce developped to Canada, Louisiana, the Caribbean and the African coasts as well as Azores islands, making Honfleur one of the five main towns in the slave trade.

Honfleur was liberated in WWII on August 25 1944 by the Belgian army Brigade Piron and the town suffered no damage, one of the rare Normand towns to be spare. More so that what you see is genuine original in the architecture and buildings of the town!

A bit on what Honfleur has to offer to follow. The town has a whopping 57 historical monuments in its territory, including the wonderful Sainte Catherine Church, Saint Etienne Church, Saint Leonard Church, the Salt depots, the Lieutenance house and most of the houses in the Quai Sainte Catherine, as well as the Vieux Bassin, and my family’s favorite the Notre Dame of Grace Chapel or Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Grâce up the côte de Grâce hill and the big Cross of Christ overlooking the harbor and towards Le Havre.

Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Grâce,(see post)  built in 1910 in the limits of Equemauville, and here after the fall out of the cliffs houses ex voto , boat models and an organ from 1990; on the exterior you can see the pilgrims bells.  We had held Mass here so a bit more : This Chapelle Notre-Dame de Grâce was built between  1600-1615 by the rich merchant and marines/fisherman of  Honfleur at the place of an older Chapel that was destroyed due to a slide in the cliffs; this older one was built before the year 1023 by Richard II, Duke of Normandy  to pay a wish of which on the course of a storm he could had perished ; thereafter, the cult is perpetuated.

The museum or Musée Eugène-Boudin and its annex dedicated to religious art in the bell tower of the Sainte Catherine Church which a building apart from the Church! ; the house or Maison Satie and the museums of old Honfleur such as marine museum or Musée de la Marine (inside the old Saint Etienne Church and a must to see), and the museum or Musée d’Ethnographie et d’Art populaire; (in the old prison of the Viscount of Roncheville).

The water basin or ponds were built by Abraham Duquesne on orders of Colbert in 1681. The old basin or vieux bassin rounds the quai Sainte-Catherine and the houses are numbered from 2 to 68, the houses dates from the 17C and 18C. They are very narrow and have from 3 to 7 floors (FR) except the No 2 that has one floor. Many of the facades are covered in tiles and other are done in corbel.  Today, most in the street level of the quai Sainte-Catherine are restaurants or brasseries. The side along the quai Sainte-Catherine by the narrow rue Montpensier have an underground trail with a creek of the Claire feeding the basin. The other side of the basin is with other buildings on the quai Saint-Étienne; which include, the city hall or hôtel de ville, and the Saint Etienne Church (St Stephen) now the marine museum. There are three small narrow streets that gives access to the quai Saint-Étienne. On the side of the ocean you have the quai de la Quarantaine,and one building ,the lieutenance that was next to the housing for the king’s lieutenant. The only fortified part of the town today. The movable bridge on the basin and over the channel to the front port is by the Morelle that makes end on the tour of the basin.

The Church dedicated to Sainte Catherine of Alexandria as there is a statue in wood on top of the entrance porch of the bell tower, representing a wheel and a sword. The first nave on the left is the oldest dating from the second half of the 15C and built like a market where the naval construction were done , giving a look as if it were an upside down boat. The bell tower is apart from the Church, unique, this was done to avoid fires that would hurt the parishioners. The Saint Etienne Church is of gothic style part from the 14C and 15C, the oldest Church in town, built in chalk stone with silex and Caen stone as Honfleur is on the limits of these stone formations, the bell tower is in chesnut wood and now houses the marine museum which is very nice with its model boats of old.

The city of Honfleur on things to see: https://www.ville-honfleur.com/decouvrir-honfleur/honfleur-et-son-patrimoine/

The Honfleur tourist office in English: https://www.honfleur-tourism.co.uk/

There are many films done here and some of my favorites (even if this is not by all means a full list).
Les Trois Mousquetaires (1953), by André Hunebelle, with Georges Marchal and Bourvil (great French comedian).
L’Homme à la Buick (1967), of Gilles Grangier, with Fernandel (another great French comedian) ,and Danielle Darrieux
La Chambre verte (1977), of François Truffaut, with François Truffaut and Nathalie Baye
Tendre Poulet (1978), of Philippe de Broca, with Annie Girardot and Philippe Noiret
Le Quatrième Pouvoir (1985), of Serge Leroy, with Philippe Noiret and Nicole Garcia

There ,is, also since 1995, each year at end November when the town host the Festival of Russian films or Festival du cinéma Russe. A very important movie festival on Russian cinema with producers, directors and actors in competition are invited. Keep an eye on the webpage: http://festival-honfleur.fr/

You now have good shopping at the outlet mall Honfleur Outlet. webpage: https://www.honfleuroutlet.com/fr/

And the wonderful garden event PassionnémentJardin with plants and showings and purchases yes we had and good deals, my Martine love it!!! webpage: https://www.passionnementjardin.fr/

And the good one Naturospace with wild butterflies and tropical lush in Honfleur! Just up the alley from the public park where the garden event is held follow the road and at the end is the Naturospace. webpage: https://www.naturospace.com/

And cruises up the Seine river even to Paris! webpage: https://www.croisierenet.com/ports/301/france/croisiere-honfleur.html

And those out of Honfleur into the ocean and around and under the bridge of Normandy. We have done the Calypso and Jolie France nice. Honfleur tourist office webpage on these: https://www.honfleur-tourism.co.uk/making-my-stay-count/leisures/promenade-en-bateau-honfleur-jolie-france-la-calypso-2/

Well, hope you get the idea , Honfleur is one whole packful of goodies ,and in such a small space is even more cosy, quant, nice, beautiful Honfleur. And hope you enjoy the post as I!! And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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