Archive for February 3rd, 2021

February 3, 2021

Auto en Seine, Les Mureaux !

Let me update this old post from an off the beaten path town, very well into French aviation/aeronautics, Les Mureaux! Of course, nothing on planes but cars this time. Hope you enjoy it as I

I like cars probably because grew up around NYC/NJ and Daytona Beach, Florida USA and now live in France. So when a car event goes up here I go usually , as time permits. This time there is no exception besides spring is in the air!; and I need to update links and text on this post from 2011!!! Auto en Seine at Les Mureaux!

les-mureaux-seine-en-auto-mar11

This event was call Autos en Seine in the town of Les Mureaux, dept Yvelines no 78 west of Paris on your way to Normandy on the A13 autoroute de Normandie exit/sortie 8. Its a town about 39 km (24 miles) from Paris. I believe this was a one time event as never seen it again oh well, one for the memory lane. You can easily get here by train from Paris gare Saint Lazare direction Mantes la Jolie. webpage: https://www.transilien.com/fr/gare/les-mureaux-8738668

I have written on Les Mureaux before as the town is the site of Aviation historically in France, and it houses today the EADS European Agency for Defense and Space, the equivalent of NASA in Europe. The rockets are only assembled here and they are taken to Guyana in South America for send off to destination.

Of further interest is the Château de Bécheville from the 17C who was visited by the writer Stendhal in 1811, the castle was renovated in the 19C and today it houses the Center of arts and music conservatory of the town.  There is a center for sailing boats Cercle de la Voile de Paris here since 1893 by the Seine river.

And the Church St Pierre St Paul built in 1896. Amongst the best parks is the  parc de l’Oseraie with a nice house from 1876-1879 and the Val de Loisirs du Val de Seine with plenty of games ,activities ,and a lake with boating out to the Seine river.

For those seeking lodging right off the A13 on your way to/from Normandy , you can have this logis de France property ,La Chaumiere  rather nice off the expressway. We have not stayed but visit seeking to pick up friends there after our suggestion and it was nice. Webpage: http://www.hotel-lesmureaux.com/

For eating I have tried the Le Bonheur de Les Mureaux, Chinese,Thai, Viet cuisine near the train station at 25, Rue Jean-Jaurès. It is closed and now a different Daadi Kitchen resto Pakistanais there. Will keep the old name just for the memories.

And Les Voiles restaurant part of the sailing club area,adjacent to it overlooking the Seine river for a bit more upscale dining rather nice we love it. Webpage: https://www.lesvoiles.net/

For a coffee, snack and overlooking the place de la Liberation people watching spot in town tried the Cafe de la Mairie, 2 place de la Libération while walking around. Good local ambiance. And a bit out of town , for hanging out with the astronauts folks and a drink try the Le Week End, 64 route de Verneuil . no webs.

The city of Les Mureaux on its history/heritage in French: http://: https://www.lesmureaux.fr/Histoire-de-la-ville/15083/

Hope you enjoy the Autos en Seine event and it was nice to catch up with the family and see some wonderful cars. I have catch up with some more of these events in my new hole in the ground and even visited the big one here Le Mans!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

February 3, 2021

This is Carnac Bourg!!

So let me revise update new title text updated links the works on this wonderful old post of mine from a great beach town of Carnac just south of me. If you travel, you know this town is world famous and Unesco World Heritage site for its megaliths stones. However, in good weather beach time it is a lively town with good ambiance and we love it at the Grande Plage or big beach of Carnac!

And here we are on another nice day with sunny weather temps around 20C or about 70F no rain,just perfect for the beach in us not the water of course. We need to move on so with the boys we came back to our family nice beats in our corner of the world. We used to come here a lot with mom as it is only 24 km or about 15 miles from our house. Proving this love for the area ,I have many posts in my blog on the beach town. Of course, I am talking about Carnac, in the Morbihan Breton.

But wait, these are really two towns in one. First, we have Carnac bourg or the inland city with the main Church, museum, restos ,shops, and city hall; and then we have Carnac plage or beachside with the big beach, shops, restos and just laid back ambiance.

carnac-rue-saint-cornely-and-korrigan-gifts-on-left-may18

I  leave the history for my other posts , just that the alignments here are Unesco World Heritage Site. Let me tell you it is just down from my house on the D768 and then a quick turn into the D119 to Carnac bourg , really easy and as we got early by 10h30 we found easy parking at the place de la Chapelle next to the Pre History museum and right by the tourist office. This weekend as it was a Pentecost holiday  we had free parking too here. We took a quick tour of the tourist office as I think it is always essential no matter how many times you come to a place. There are always changes and we notice.

carnac-tourist-office-pl-de-la-chapelle-may18

The town is very nice and small on the bourg side and then a short ride to the beach side for more walks. Other than the Pre History museum ….The other must to see here is the Church Saint Cornély, a jewel itself and one of the best renaissance Churches in France! It is from the 17C.

There is a huge choice of shops and restos here. One of our favorite shopping for souvenirs and gifts is Korrigans on rue Saint Cornély just off the Church (and my boys shopping ::)). They  are easy to find just go around the Church on your right hand side facing it. The other is an old timer used to be called Cozy restaurant , it was the first place I ate here back in 2011!!. Well , as we can’t keep up with the choices and changes around here lol! They have new owners and new name not tested yet call Les Caprices d’Anaïs.

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carnac-les-caprices-danais-previous-cozy-resto-may18

The city of Carnac tourist office in English: https://www.carnactourism.co.uk/

The area Bay of Quiberon tourist office on Carnac in English: https://www.baiedequiberon.co.uk/carnac

The dept 56 Morbihan tourist office on Carnac in English: http://www.morbihan-tourism.co.uk/home/discover/morbihan/the-main-destinations/carnac

Again, so much to see here on the bourg , city center. As I have so many posts , trying not to repeat this is it for now. This is one to come with the whole family if ever in this corner of the world and of course let me know ok. This is  a lovely town again I insist a must to see with the family. We love it and now many memories for us coming here with my dear late wife Martine!

I hope you enjoy it too as we do. Again, happy travels, good health ,and many cheers to all!!!

February 3, 2021

Collégiale Basilique Notre Dame of Beaune!!!

And again surprise! As you might notice doing updates and revisions of my older posts in my blog, which has been a sublime invigorating action with many memorable moments flashing back! And many virtual friends comments and likes along the way, thank you all. However, one very happy moment is when find many monuments left behind or little written on it! This is the case of this one which had not written at all even if had pictures! Therefore, here is my credit post to the Collégiale Basilique Notre Dame of Beaune !!!

I have written on Beaune on other sights and we stayed in gîtes just south of it with the family vacation so know Beaune well, in addition that my wine aficionado had taken me there and visit the most famous houses. Somehow, I had skip the church! See my other posts. Beaune department of Côte’d’Or 21 in the region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comte.

The Church of Notre Dame has texts that tell us that the first Church was established in the old town from 976, the western portal of byzantine style of the current Church dates from the 12C. The exterior  has three nerfs from the 14C that hides the façade some destroyed during the French revolution but some still there from the 15C ….  just a nice Church.

Let me tell you a bit on the history I like

The Collégiale Basilique Notre Dame of Beaune is a canonical ensemble dating from the second half of the 12C. The collegiate basilica is one of the last great Burgundian Romanesque churches in Burgundy.It has three floors, cruciform pillars to which Gothic decor, a Renaissance bell tower and a remarkable 16C chapel . Its construction was undertaken in the middle of the 12C on the Clunysian model and was completed at the beginning of the following century while maintaining a remarkable stylistic unity. The canonical buildings date from the end of the 12C, the porch from the middle of the 13C. The chapels were added from the 13C to the 16C; the most remarkable are the Saint-Léger Chapel adorned with murals and the Bouton chapel dated 1530. The Gothic spire of the church was replaced by an imperial roof built from 1580 to 1588 .

Beaune coll ch Notre Dame front aug11

And a bit on its description I like

Inside, you can admire a superb statue of the Virgin and Child dating from the 12C. She belongs to the family of black virgins. Do not miss the guided tour organized by the tourist office of the collection of tapestries of the Virgin dating from the 15C inspired by La Légende Dorée by Jacques de Voragine. The opportunity to hear the story unfolding before your eyes with the birth and childhood of the Virgin and of Christ until the coronation of the Virgin. It has a nice and ample design,in the choir you see the Black Virgin from the 12C, the second chapel paintings from the 15C representing the resurrection of Lazarus, a pieta from the 16C and on the third chapel  two altars from the 15C , on the south side you see the Chapelle Renaissance. The tapestries are gorgeous behind the main altar  on the life of the Virgin marking the passage from the middle ages to the renaissance.  Five panels trace the history of the Virgin in 19 paintings ordered in 1474 and offered to the Church in 1500.  The cloister dating from the 13C and the capitulary room have been renovated.

Beaune coll ch notre dame tapestries aug11

The Collégiale Basilique Notre Dame of Beaune has a nave with two aisles, a transept and a choir with apse, ambulatory and radiating chapels. The nave, the transept and the choir are covered with broken barrel vaults, the aisles and the ambulatory with groin vaults, the porch, the apse, the chapels, the cloister and the chapter house with ribbed vaults , the chapel Button from a ceiling. Around 1690, Gabriel Revel produced The Adoration of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, an oil on canvas measuring 243 × 223 cm 3 To the left of the choir is the old sacristy, to the right, upstairs, the old Saint-Michel Chapel (private oratory of Nicolas Rolin) whose apse, lit by a semi-circular window, is supported by a cul-de-Lampe and covered with a terrace bordered by a balustrade. A corridor allowed communication with the canonical building. In the 19C, Viollet-le-Duc helped save the church and left its mark by building a covered gallery to the right of the portal .The portal of the right arm of the transept opens onto a cloister gallery with seven bays surmounted by part of the old canonical buildings, currently used as a presbytery.

beaune coll ch Notre Dame nave aug11

This collegiate church became a basilica in 1958, a monument to be discovered by day and by night.

The Beaune tourist office on the Collegiale: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/things-to-do/attractions/collegiale-notre-dame-747039

A site on Burgudian romanesque churches and on the Collégiale Basilique Notre Dame of Beaune: http://www.bourgogneromane.com/edifices/beaune.htm

The city of Beaune on other things to see in French:  http://www.beaune.fr/spip.php?rubrique109#

So, therefore, I feel better telling you about this great little church basilica in a wonderful Burgundian town of Beaune. Hope you enjoy the post as I

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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February 3, 2021

Beaune is special for more than wines!

Yes indeed, if you read my blog you know my personal connection with Beaune early on in my wine aficionado career! This is an updated post as need to for the links and text and the importance of Beaune. Even if my burgundy wine tastes have whine down or change, it is still a world important wine region of France. Let me update you on Beaune and see my other post on it

Why not tell you about one of my favorite cities even if rather small it hold it’s charm of Burgundian style ! There are many to see in my belle France, but Beaune is another nice one.  Beaune is a Burgundian city located in the department of Côte’d’Or 21 in the region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comte. It can be considered as the capital of the burgundy wines. It is ,also, a flower city with four flowers designation and winner of the Gold Medal at the National grand prize in the European floral entente of 2006. The city is recognized as one of Art and History designation in France.

Transports on getting there and around are plenty for a city this size is tops.  It is a crossroad of many highways such as the A6 only 312 km from Paris and 157 km from Lyon giving birth to the highway A31 direction Dijon at 47 kms, Nancy at 258 kms, and Metz at 308 km, as well as the highway A36 direction to Besançon at 108 km and Mulhouse at 232 km.  Two TGV lines runs by it such as the line Paris Gare de Lyon Dijon, and Châlon-sur-Saône and the line Dijon Lyon Marseille and Nice.  Regional service is done on the TER Bourgogne-Franche-Comte and Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 

A bit of history as I like it. 

Beaune was the residence of the dukes of Burgundy until the 14C. Duke Eudes III of Burgundy allows Beaune to exist as a city since 1203. The famous Hospices de Beaune, tells us that in 1422 Nicolas Rolin was named counselor by Duke Philippe the Good of Burgundy. He marries in 1421 Guigone de Salins that was part of the nobility of the Comte and founded the Hospices of Beaune in 1452 a new religious order was founded the sisters hospitaliers of Beaune .He ,also, ordered the polyptique painting of the Last Judgment by flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden for the Hospice.

The city went thru the revolts of Beaune in favor of Marie of Burgundy vs the King of France Louis XI, the war of religions ; the city was occupied in 1814 by the Austrians fighting Napoleon Ier. The department of the Côte-d’Or was created in 1790 during the French revolution as no 21. The Viti school of agro and vines was created here in 1884. During WWI Beaune is host to the American Expeditionary Force AEF and its 2 millions men in France. In 1918 , the American military hospital was built at the doors of the city with 20K beds one of the most important in Europe The military hospital is transform into an American University , the University of Beaune opened in 1919 with 15K military students and 600 teachers. In WWII , French troops of the 2nd regiment entered the city and liberated it finally on September 8 1944.

Some of the sites that I like, even thus only visited the city ,with the family stayed in gîtes down south by Buxy.

The auction sale of the Hospices of Beaune (see post) are done every year on the third Sunday of November and the first sale goes back to 1859. In 1934 the Confrérie des chevaliers du Tastevin creates the Trois Glorieuses, a cultural event that is now part of the auction of the Hospices of Beaune Between 1720 and 1750 the negotiators houses begins to see the day in Beaune with the first one been the Maison Champy followed by the Domaine Chanson Père & Fils. The tours and ramparts were done in 1477 and still there! Wines are at the center of the city it’s heartbeat goes with the harvest and the auction sale of the Hospices of Beaune, and the wonderful Trois Glorieuses. Only the charity piece is done with a candle is given the name of the auction of candles or enchéres à la chandelle.

Other things to see are the musée du vin de Bourgogne (house in the old palace of the Dukes 15-16C) , Musée des Beaux Arts (founded in 1850 with collection from the 12-20C), Musée Marey, Musée Dali, the Maison des Templiers end of rue Jacques de Molay, the lavoir on the Bouzaise river ,the halles de Beaune facing the hotel-dieu where the market is held on Saturdays and the the auction of the Hospices of Beaune are held.

Church of Saint-Baudèle is in old town near the source of the Belenin river that gives the name to the city. The first Church here is from the end of the 5C on the ruins of a temple to Apollo. It houses the relics of Saint Baudèle or aka Saint Boil that was a contemporary of Saint Martin, and was a soldier that was martyred in Nîmes around 395. Church of Saint-Flocel is outside the old town against the ramparts. The Church was dedicated in 965 ,and received the relics of Saint Flocel ,and Saint Herné in the presence of Duke Otton. Church of Notre Dame , texts tell us that the first Church was established in the old town from 976, the western portal of byzantine style of the current Church dates from the 12C. This last Church is the best in my opinion created by the daughters of Cluny around 1120 inspired by Saint Lazare in Autun. 

The Hospices of Beaune  (see post) as said were started in 1443 in the Hôtel Dieu we see today. The building has it’s now famous roof  and a wonderful interior courtyard.  

There are other nice things to see like the Hôtel de la Rochepot, on the place Monge dating from 1522 with a gothic façade and a gallery in three levels facing a belltower and the statue of Monge, the oldest of four children of Gaspart Monge creator of the geometry, founder of the school polytechnique and participate in the expedition to Egypt as well as been Prime Minister. You go on to the Place de la Halle in old city center with plenty of quaint stores and architecture delights. The ramparts going for 2 km with some private niches with some towers and bastions.

In wines one of the best AOC Beaune of the villages of the Côte-de-Beaune obtained in 1936. Between Savigny-lés-Beaune on the north and Pommard in the south with 42 premiers crus or 70% of the total vineyard producing each year about 15 500 hectoliters of wines on its 420 hectares. If you traveled along the Route 74 you will see heavens before you and of course a car is best. Really ,the area is split into the Côte de Nuits going from Nuits-Saint-Georges to Chenové and including Corgoloin; and the Côte de  Beaune starting from Corgoloin and towards Beaune.  The Côte de Nuits is known as the kidney of Burgundy due to its many taverns around with the center in the Place de la République. My favorite here is Joseph Faiveley. Then, you have the Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits with white wines and aligoté white very good. Road goes down to Aloxe-Corton  with Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils; and more affordable the Caves de la Reine Pédauque ; the Corton-Charlemagne region has my favorite chateau Corton-Grancey where Louis Latour ages its wines.  Moving on to Pernand-Vergelesse and the Domaine Bonneau du Martray and Domaine Rapet Pére & Fils; getting to Savigny-Lés-Beaune and the castle  and Maison Doudet-Naudin. At Chorey-Lés-Beaune, just north of Beaune  you see another castle  and the wines of Jacques Germain. (see posts).

The producers here are many , hard to chose really. However, over the years of indulging in the wines of the region we like best these: Bouchard Pére et Filsdomaine Albert MorotChanson pére & FilsPatriarche Pére & Fils , Maison Louis Latour Maison Louis Jadot ,and Maison Joseph Drouhin. Across from Patriarche and the Hôtel Dieu you have a wonderful place to taste them all and buy all kinds of local souvenirs, this is the Athenaeum de la Vigne et du Vin. webpage: https://www.athenaeum.com/

beaune rue paul bouchard jun09

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Another wonderful place that I can recommend is the wine store of Denis Perret, right in city center surrounded by many houses where you can taste wine too. webpage: http://www.denisperret.fr/fr/

Do not missed the Moutarderie Fallot, mustard traditionally done following the Dijon tradition. webpage: https://www.fallot.com/en/

And this is the city of Beaune on things to see: http://www.beaune.fr/spip.php?rubrique1#.X_9q3XZKjIU

The Beaune tourist office: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/

The Côte d’Or tourist office on the art de vivre of the area: https://www.cotedor-tourisme.com/bourgogne/art-de-vivre

There you go ,hope it helps plan your trip to the beautiful Beaune, Burgundy and the Wines routes, all wonderful in my belle France

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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