Archive for January 30th, 2021

January 30, 2021

Church of Saint-Philbert ,Île de Noirmoutier!

Therefore, need to update this older post to go along the others recently done on the Île de Noirmoutier. I had it separate because of the local meaning to the monument, the Church of Saint Philbert! Hope you enjoy as I.

And I take you to the islands!! on the West coast of my belle France again. Here all is wonderful and peaceful, and other things to see besides the beaches! This is just south of me along the coast!  I like to take you to the Île de Noirmoutier, in the dept of the Vendée 85 (old Poitou area) in Pays de la Loire region and to show a bit more of the Church of Saint Philbert.

The island of Noirmoutier  or Île de Noirmoutier is in the Atlantic Ocean, on the coast of the Vendée dept85 . It is separated from the mainland by the Strait or gully of Fromentine, wide from 700 to 800 meters, and  connected  to the mainland  by the Passage du Gois (or Goâ), 4 km long and practicable passage at low sea. A bridge further north has also been connecting the island to the mainland since 1971.

The Church of St Philbert, which is the former Benedictine abbey, is in its present state dates from  the 12C, 14C and 19C, but it is built on a crypt that must be that of the primitive Church and go back to the end of the 7C or 8C. It contains a sarcophagus of Saint Philbert, which passes to be the tomb of the Saint, but which is in reality only a modern restoration. Beautiful 14C rectangular dungeon, flanked by turret-shaped buttresses. This dungeon had to be built by the lord of the island, on the location of the Castle raised in the 9C by the monks to defend against the Vikings.

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Who was Saint Philbert? ,well a brief description: he was abbot of Jumièges in Normandy, then of Noirmoutier in the Vendée. He had left the court of King Dagobert to make himself a monk at first to Rebais  in the French Brie area (77 Seine et Marne). Later he founded a monastery in Jumièges near Rouen in Normandy. When he learned that Ebroïn, the mayor of the palace, had murdered Saint Léger of Autun, he went to reproach his crime to the mayor of Neustria. Ebroïn instructed Saint Ouen to make it disappear. The Bishop of Rouen obeyed, made him imprisoned, but the captivity was gentle and lasted little, for Ebroïn was assassinated in his turn. Saint Philbert thanked Saint Ouen for his hospitality, assured him of his perfect friendship and took the way to the monastery of Noirmoutier. During the Norman invasions, his relics were transported to Tournus in Burgundy, where a magnificent abbey was built.(still there).

A bit of history I like on the Church

The Church of Saint-Philbert rises on the site of an abbey founded by Philibert de Tournus in 677AD.  It was plundered by the Saracens at the beginning of the 8C, then burned down by the Normans in 846AD. It was then rebuilt at the end of the 11C on a primitive Chapel, which is the present Crypt, but only the Choir and the main nave remains. From the end of the 14C to the 17C ,the left and right naves were raised, and it was consecrated in 1849.

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The bell tower is neo-Romanesque it was built in 1875 to replace the old steeple which had been destroyed by a fire in 1848. Inside you can admire a model of a frigate, made by an artisan watchmaker of the village in 1802 for Auguste Jacobsen.

The Crypt is located under the Choir, it hosted the body of Saint Philbert between 690 and 836, when it was transferred to Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu, then to Tournus in Burgundy, where the monks had fled after the Norman invasions in 875. A shrine on the altar contains some relics of the Saint transferred in 1863 date on which this Crypt was restored.The Merovingian Crypt where Saint Philbert rested is what remains of the abbey destroyed by the Normans. Indeed the abbey which extended over the location of the church and the castle was never raised in its walls after the monks fled the occupation of the Vikings who had made the island their base behind their raids on the Loire. Only a priory was restored which became the Church we know today.

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The windows of the nave tell us of Saint Philbert and the ancient Abbey, the castle, the arms of the abbey and on the other side four stages and foundations of Philibert: Jumièges, Saint Philibert of Grandlieu, Cunault and Tournus.  The altarpiece of the Holy Mary is the oldest altarpiece of the Church, and the most lavishly decorated. You can admire the garlands of roses and sun carved in stone. The altarpiece of the altar St. Anne was built in 1711.

The Noirmoutier island tourist office on the Church: https://www.ile-noirmoutier.com/fr/que-faire-sur-l-ile/patrimoine-sites-de-visites/eglise-saint-philbert.html

The parish church of Noirmoutier island on the Church: http://saint-philbert-en-noirmoutier.fr/saint-philbert-de-noirmoutier/

Hope you enjoy the story, the island is very nice just close by Nantes and the passage of Goa in low tide is sublime experience, written on it in previous posts. For now enjoy the history and architecture of the Saint Philbert Church in the Ïle de Noirmoutier!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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January 30, 2021

And the 49ers of Cholet !

I need to update this post , very unique to me. Actually, hard to come up with titles, and as Cholet is dept 49 of Pays de la Loire region of my belle France...well I thought of the 49ers as in American football lol!!! Even not my favorite team there but very famous… okay so why talk about sports! Let me tell you what we have in this 49ers of Cholet!

Ok so in continuing the saga looking into new areas in my belle France, we decided today to visit Cholet in the département of the Maine-et-Loire no. 49 in the région of Pays de la Loire. This is a historical town of very much links to the Vendéen wars against the French revolution. In what was the Anjou area.  As usual , I passed by these departments and regions all the time but always lack the time to visit all. France is a mouvable feast!!!

As I said the history is huge here, and  my small contribution on this post is not enough.  And as usual, I went by car/auto; taken the N165 direction Nantes hooking up direct to the N844  direction Poitiers/Angers ,on exit sortie 44  linking with the N249 direction Poitiers  exit 38 into the D753 that takes you into Cholet Centre city  center. We parked in the limits of the city center at parking Turpault easy in and out for 40 cents!!!, a nice small garden with plenty of inexpensive parking fees and walk along rue Nationale to the center really less than 5 minutes.

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This is the lands of Foulque Nera Count of Anjou , and passing by one of his loyal soldiers who later passed it on to their sons until the family lineage is gone in the 13C.  Passing again by several hands until becoming part of the reign in 1343 due to the grand extensors of salt ,by 1463 the lands are even sold to the Duke of Brittany! However, nothing compare to what behold the town and area during the French revolution, especially during the battle of Cholet in 1793.  it goes to textile and shoes industries ups and down until today a revitalizing town on the move.

The first thing we did after parking the car is walk the town as we love to do. We saw a very modern and nice shopping center right in city center!  the  « Les Arcades Rougé »; something different to have one around the old town.  Anchor by a Super U supermarket and with plenty of stores of all kinds and Irish pubs as well ! Webpage: http://www.les-arcades-rouge.fr/le-centre/.

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There is a huge wonderful Place Travot, it seems the center of it all in town. There is an impressive building now hosting the Mercure hotel; and you can see the back of Notre Dame Church (see post).  You have nice winding old streets like the rue Bretonnaise or Breton street ,and the Grand Pharmacie in the place Travot , and the long and winding rue Nationale, actually cut in half by the Place Travot. All very nice..

However, as often happened here in our belle France; tradition calls for specific lunch hours , and even missing by a few minute and with half a restaurant empty the answer will always be, we are closed or food service is over!!! We arrive there to a place we have picked to eat at 14h06 that is 2:06PM and were told the routine answers. We tried others in the Place Travot and the answer was the same, and of course many were even closed. So we end up hungry as usual and settle for the all American chain Subway sandwiches !!! Part of the Arcades Rougé shopping center.The official Subway webpage with location Cholet: https://www.subway.com/fr-FR/FindAStore?zip=cholet

So we had a nice big 30 cm long BMT my all time favorite here from younger days, and my 7 Up along with a chocolate cookie ! neat and came out to 9.10€ per person; at least my wallet was in heaven! And we headed back home.

This was before the New Year 2018 (see post) and of course was on my way to change car tomorrow  for another Ford!! , my lifetime car/auto and never a problem. Until my next post, I want to wish you all a very very Happy New Year 2018!

The city of Cholet things to see: https://www.cholet.fr/welcome/tourisme.php

The tourist office for Cholet on its heritage: https://en.ot-cholet.fr/exploring/heritage-cholet.html

And there you go folks, a short post on a sort of introduction to wonderful historical Cholet. Plenty of posts in my blog on things to see there, worth the detour and to know the whole history of France. Hope you enjoy the post as I

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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January 30, 2021

You know the Vendée, Noirmoutier island, part VI!!!

We went into the islands off the continental France , hugely popular and lovely; it was like been born again for me! I like to update this posts from 2017 with links,text using same pictures. Hope you enjoy it as much as I ! This one is Ïle de Noirmoutier , part VI.

Moving right alone on the trip to Noirmoutier island in the Vendée dept 85 of the Pays de la Loire region; this is part 6 of the series.  Today, I will show you briefs on the religious monuments of the city of Noirmoutier ,itself full of history.  This is the end of this story! There are several posts on the island and a lot more pictures in my blog.

You can meander thru the little tight streets  with a beach scent of the island and its white houses, colorful merchants and restaurants of all sorts but especially ,the sea. The season actually starts in April, and on the first day it was already packed. Talking with locals , we were told to rent in summer you need about a year in advance to get the best properties; it is very sought after here.

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While walking alone the dam or digue out into the harbor and the salt and oyster beds we saw a small bell cross pointed within the houses towards town. We walk further towards it and found on a private road but accessible by the public a small Chapel right between the private homes. This is the Chapelle Notre Dame de la Pitié.(see post).

It was done in 1950 by the Abbey Raymond in order to honored the 1500 or 1800 soldiers of Charette leader of the counter French revolution who were executed here in 1794. These soldiers were taken prisoner in the Church of St Philbert (see post) and taken here in groups of about 60 to be executed in what was a garbage dump place. Most of the soldiers were buried in the sand dunes around it.

Upon entering the Chapel you see the Cross of the Martyrs ,and inside the rock of pieta is from the 16C given by the Marquis de Chauvelin. Amongst the bones found are those now in an enclose glass cabinet of the General D’Elbée executed by firing squad on January 7, 1794 ,he was the military chief of the counter revolutionaries in the Vendée region.   This is probably why there is not much info and nothing in the tourists office but here is a site on the period of counter revolution of the Vendée and the Chouans of Bretagne (see post). Webpage in French: http://www.vendeensetchouans.com/archives/2012/04/12/23997600.html

Just going over to the town, it was that time to finally eat something hot so we passed by the picturesque square or place Saint  Louis of many restos and we just pick by chance the Le Blé Noir II at 14 Place Saint Louis. Very friendly, and the waiter had lived in New York and London, so nice expat conversation indeed lol! Michel was a great topic of conversation and the food price/quality was excellent, the bill came to 25,50€ per person including 8 beers Licorne, 2 diabolo menthe drink, one galette chevrette or goat galette and one galette anglaise or English galette with bacon egg and fresh cream, 3 menus of  entrée of fish soup, main dish Hake fish in a white sauce with shrimps, and two scoops of ice cream. Just lovely and a fair price for a chic upper island vacation spot!! We are reflected on the window! Their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Le-Bl%C3%A9-Noir-II-328855830658053/

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Now much better equipped ::) we continue our walks into the main Church in town, that of one its founders Saint Philbert; a great travelers born in the Gers around 616; he became a monk at the age of 20. After many bad adventures and even prison he ends up here to found a  monastery. He encouraged the cultivation of salt and creates dams to protect the harbor. He died in 685 and his body was placed in the crypt of the Church for several centuries. It now only remained a phalanx in a ossuary in the crypt of the Church ; that now bears his name as many other buildings in the island. 

The Church of Saint Philbert (see post) is just next to the castle; on the square or place d’Armes. The church of a Roman style enclosed in a model frigate or boat. In the Choir of the Church in the crypt laid his body from 690 to 836; it now has some relics of the Saint.  The Church Saint-Philbert is in the spot of an Abbey founded in 677.  It was plundered by the Saracens in the 8C and then burnt by the Normans in 846. It was then  rebuilt  at the end of the 11C on the original Chapel, which is the  current  crypt,  only the choir and the nave.  The end of the 14C  to the 17C , the  left and  right nave were taken down,  it was consecrated in 1849. The  bell tower is neo-Roman, and it was built in 1875 to replace the former bell   tower which had been destroyed by a fire in 1848.

Inside we can admire a model of a frigate, made by an artisan watchmaker of the village in 1802 for Auguste Jacobsen.  The crypt: it is located under the choir, she welcomed the body of St. Philbert between 690 and 836, date at which he was transferred to Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu,  then  to Tournus  where the monks  had fled after the  invasions  of  Normandy in 875.   A  chasse on the altar  contains  some relics of the  saint, transferred in 1863 date that  this  crypt  was  restored.

 The Merovingian crypt where rested Saint Philbert is what remains of the Abbey destroyed by the Normans.  Indeed the Abbey that stretched to the location of the Church  and the castle  was never relieved within its walls once the monks  fled the occupation  of the Vikings who had  made the island their rear base   for their raids  on the Loire.  Only a Priory was restored which became the Church as we know it.  The stained glass windows of the nave tell of Saint Philbert:  the  former Abbey,  the Castle,  the arms of the Abbey  and of the other side  four steps and  foundations of Philbert:  Jumièges,  Saint Philbert de Grandlieu,  and Cunault and Tournus. The altarpiece Sainte Marie is the oldest altarpiece of the Church,  and the most richly  decorated.  You can admire the garlands of roses and Sun carved in stone. The retable of the altar of  Ste.  Anne  was  built in 1711.

Indeed a wonderful Church Saint Philbert that must be visited and admire.

The Ïle de Noirmoutier city on tourism do and see in English: https://www.ile-noirmoutier.com/en/noirmoutier-en-lile-historical-center.html

The Vendée dept 85 on Noirmoutier island in English: http://www.vendee-tourism.co.uk/en/discover/nature-and-countryside/noirmoutier-island/

You are just across from the castle and we found free parking right in front of the Church. Enjoy Noirmoutier another jewel in my belle France! Hope you enjoy the series!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

January 30, 2021

You know the Vendée, Noirmoutier island, part V!

We went into the islands off the continental France , hugely popular and lovely; it was like been born again for me! I like to update this posts from 2017 with links,text using same pictures. There are several posts on the island and a lot more pictures in my blog. Hope you enjoy it as much as I ! This one is Ïle de Noirmoutier , part V.

And my Noirmoutier saga continues with the WWII bunkers on the beach there. This is part 5 or V of the saga so need to catch up with the previous ones for the whole story.  By January 19 1944, Field Marshal Erwin Rommel is named inspector of fortifications and all the big harbors of the Atlantic are raise to fortresses that will need to withstand until the last block.

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After 73 years the bunkers or blockhouses here are brought to new by an association formed to protect them for posterity. The association is the Atlantic Wall Memory (AWM). Info here: Place René Ganachaud (mayor’s office) 85680 La Guérinière. The assoc webpage in French: https://atlanticwall.fr/tirpitz-blockhaus-la-gueriniere/

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These are in the town of La Guériniére and along the Cantine beach or plage de la Cantine with children playground and plenty of bike paths and car parking for free.

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Here you will find about 7 (I think I counted 7) blockhouses coming from batteries Sa 114a along boulevard de l’Océan in La Guériniére. One of the blockhouses the 669’s has a small museum on the local history of fishing; the Maison des Anciens Marins or the house of retired fisherman and wartime pictures . Finding the 627 with plates on rare to see but the bunker has them. The battery was named after the battleship “Tirpitz”.

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Another bunker has a Maison des Ecluses et Pêche Traditionnelle still in use or the House of levies and traditional fishing.  There are four building behind the bunkers acting as a double defense line and they look like bunkers to me too ::)

Once you are in the town of La Guériniére you follow the signs for the bonkers until you reach the boulevard de l’Océan one way turning right and find your parking. This is the Cantine beach and the after the children playground in a still grassy area facing the beach you see the big blockhouses rising before you one after the other.  They are all near the sand or beach, and then behind are other buildings some semi submerge in the land on the other side of a narrow road. There are panels to explain what they are.

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It is a mood time to reflect on the times then and what we have now and to protect the balance without injustices as happened before.  It is a must for all to come and see them and especially our young adults so they learn the lessons of history head on.

The tourist office of Noirmoutier island and La Guériniére : https://www.ile-noirmoutier.com/en/explore-the-island/la-gueriniere.html

Enjoy it and have a great time as we did in Noirmoutier island or Noirmoutier-en-île. And in this case at La Guériniére!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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