Archive for January 8th, 2021

January 8, 2021

The market at Redon!

Ok so this is a revision of text from an older post of 2019. We love markets and any town we go to we need to visit them and many times shop as well. This one is no different the market at Redon is nice. Let me tell you a bit more on it and hope you like it too.

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So lets bring you back to the markets of my belle France and especially those of my lovely Bretagne. This time is a simple market in the dept 35 Ille et Vilaine and the town of Redon.

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I passed by here sometimes on my train rides to Paris and of course by car several times. As the market was is and will be one of the highlights of our lives in France,we love them all. This one is brief but worth the detour as well. See my previous posts on the town of Redon in my blog.

The Halles de Redon dates from the 19C, the Halles were renovated in 2012 to offer more brightness and friendliness. They now welcome about thirty traders who sell their local or organic products. Fruits, vegetables, meat, fish (from the ports of the mouth of the Vilaine river ), and cold cuts. As it should be in Gallo country, a good market cannot be complete without the inevitable cake-sausage. Opening hours of the halls: Monday, 8H30 to 13H from October to April and 8H to 14H May to September. Fridays and Saturdays in the covered market in the mornings.

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The city of Redon on its market: https://www.redon.fr/economie/r49-halles-et-march.html

The Redon tourist office on market: https://www.tourisme-pays-redon.com/manger/marches-de-pays

The Ille et Vilaine dept 35 on markets and this one Redon ,nice pictures: https://www.marches35.fr/item/les-halles-de-redon

Do not miss the galettes de Solange in the market black wheat bio delicious.

There you go short and sassy for you, a wonderful side kick to see the bounties of my lovely Bretagne. Enjoy the market or Halles of Redon.

And remember, happy travels, good health,and many cheers to all!!!

January 8, 2021

Colpo ,and the Bonaparte’s!

I am updating this older post because it needs to be seen more. This is a small town near me with great cider production but a huge historical impact on the area. This is the story of the town of Colpo and the Bonaparte’s empire.

Moving right along in my beautiful Morbihan, let me continue telling you of the wonders near me that needs to be known more and hopefully visited.  The town of Colpo is near my home . Let me tell you a bit on it and hope you enjoy it as we do.

The niece and goddaughter of Emperor Napoleon IPrincess Napoleon Elisa Baciocchi at the instigation of the Emperor Napoleon III, in 1857, made a trip to Brittany and acquired the following year a vast estate of 300 hectares, covered in large part by heathlands and populated by beggars. She built a residence in Korn-er-Houët and decided to make Colpo a new administrative and religious constituency from territories taken from Saint Jean Brévelay, Bignan and Grand-Champ. Pushing the objections and oppositions, she obtained, in 1864, the creation of a new town and in 1866, that of a new parish. She financed the construction of a city/town hall, a church, a presbytery, a school, a rescue house, several dwellings, thus making a village appear on a avenue planted with lime trees. In the center stood a column receiving a statue of the emperor. And starting in june 1866, the Church Notre Dame de l’Assomption, finishing it in December 1867.

Princess Baciocchi died on 3 February 1869 in Colpo, where her funeral was celebrated with the utmost solemnity. After a temporary burial, her body was deposited, on February 3, 1870, in a tomb that occupies a chapel of the Notre Dame Church where she used to attend the Mass.

The Church of Notre Dame de L’Assomption is dedicated to the Assumption of Our Lady. Her high silhouette closes the prospect, at the bottom of the avenue. In front of the nave stands the steeple-porch, at the bottom of which the gate fits into a triangular gable fore body supported by twin columns of dark granite with white stone marquee. Three concentric are resting on the legs, and in the tympanum, a Madonna and Child, wrapped in a mandolin, receives the worship of two Angels kneeling. Laterally, two small engaged turrets contain the baptistery and the other a staircase. Higher up, the tower rises in two stages: that of the clock and that of the belfry, confined with corner columns and pierced by high arched windows. The polygonal arrow is in the middle of four pinnacles, loaded with narrow openings under gable and holes of four-leaf bays. Long arched stained glass windows are in the five bays of the nave, while in the north and south, large, semicircular berries illuminate the protruding wings of the transept. The choir extends, at a lower level, into a five-sided apse whose windows, each topped with a small triangular gable, draw a half-crown.

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As it happened often the time of our passing the church was closed see my son at the front door above; we will be back!

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Only the stained glass windows of the middle of the apse are depicted by a crucifixion and images of St. Charles Borromée and St. Augustine. The baptismal basin is adorned with roses and near the main gate, there is a rich, polychrome marble cowl.

The most original piece of furniture is the mausoleum of the Princess Baciocchi who fills a southern chapel. It is a powerful granite cenotaph, shaped like a pyramid trunk, sitting on a rectangular base adorned with antefixes at the top angles. On the anterior side there is an eagle with half-stretched wings and a drapery topped by the Imperial Crown and tied with ribbons, on which the Princess’s lozenge crest is read.

Its remains lie at the foot of the western wall of the chapel where the wall carries a marble cross with the inscription “HIS Ego sum resurrectia and Vita ” (I am the resurrection and the life). The window still displays her arms. This monument is perhaps the last reflection of the imperial power and glory that would sink into the disaster of 1870. Also the Church Notre Dame de l’Assomption remains dear to the Napoleonic remembrance and received, in 1976, the visit of the Prince and Princess Napoleon (heirs future Napoleon V).

The town of Colpo and its history/heritage in French: https://www.colpo.fr/le-patrimoine

The town of Colpo on its tourism things to do /see in French: https://www.colpo.fr/le-tourisme-colpo

The local Gulf of Morbihan tourist board on Colpohttps://www.golfedumorbihan.bzh/explorer-vannes/decouvrir-vannes/golfe-morbihan/landes-de-lanvaux/colpo/

And there you go ,nice Colpo and nice things to see for a weekend getaway. Need to tell you we supply our house Breton ciders from a traditional cidrerie in Colpo not far from us, welcome to try it when stopping by ::)  You have Colpo in the Morbihan dept 56 of my lovely Brittany and my belle France. Enjoy the visit and reading.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

January 8, 2021

Plumelec and the Korrigans!!

Ok this is new for a change after updating many older posts in my blog. I have written on the town of Plumelec before on its church but I need to tell you about a foodie escape as the town is near me. This was done before the virus made our lives a bit harder. Hope you enjoy my little Plumelec and the Korrigans!!!

The town of Plumelec is located in the Morbihan department 56 in the region of Bretagne. In Breton language the town is named Pluveleg. And it is at about 33 km from me, along the road D16, then D115 direction Colpo the Saint Jean-Brévelay and reach Plumelec.

A bit of history I like

It is probable that between 460 and 660, Bretons from the island of Brittany (present-day Great Britain), fleeing their island enslaved by the Anglos and the Saxons, arrived one day from the North on the heights of Lanvaux , along the Roman road coming from Carhaix, which passed south of the current territory of Plumelec. A bloody fight would have taken place between Bretons and Vikings near Kervigo at a place called « Mare au sang » or blood pond in Plumelec around the year 938

The priory of Locmaria, which had a magnificent enclosure surrounded by large walls, was sold as national property in 1792, during the French revolution, and the Sisters driven out, and the buyers subsequently demolished the chapel and the convent. The priory of Saint-Julien de Cadoudal was also sold at the same time , and it has also disappeared since.

As an anecdote , many cycling races pass or arrive at Plumelec via the Cadoudal hill, which has an average gradient of 6.2% and a drop that goes from 43 to 154 meters over 1.8 km. This is why the most prestigious races retain Plumelec as a transit or arrival point such as the Tour de France, the French road cycling championships, etc. The town is also the seat of the Grand Prix de Plumelec-Morbihan, a one-day race organized since 1974. An event counting for the French road cycling cup, it has been ranked 1.1 in the UCI Europe Tour since 2005. Cycling fans and I count, will have a field day coming here for the Grand Prix, more info here: http://www.grand-prix-plumelec.com/

Some of the things to see here are the Saint-Maurice Church, (see post). The 17C castle of Callac, located at a place called Callac, part of Plumelec. The 16C manor of La Saudraie, located at a place called La Saudraie, part of Plumelec. The 15C manor of Kerangat: the pleasure garden of the estate was created in 1886. The 17C Cadoudal manor. The Notre-Dame Church in Callac, rebuilt at the end of the 19C, contains a silver chalice, dating from the 17C. And the 16C Touche-Berthelot well, located on the Stations of the Cross in Callac. So close yet so much to see we need to be back for more!!!

The town of Plumelec on its history and heritage in French: http://www.plumelec.org/Un-riche-passe-historique_a_50_c_12.html

The local tourist board of central Morbihan on Plumelec in French : https://www.centre-morbihan-tourisme.bzh/decouvrir/centre-morbihan-communaute/plumelec/

However, the best stopping by on these little traditional towns is the food! and that we love to be here. Let me tell you about a nice lunch experience in Plumelec!

We ate at Plumelec in the Créperie Les Korrigans. In Breton, the korrigans were dwarfs who lived in the forest and perhaps going back to the meaning of Halloween. One site describes them in French, but I give you what is said of them in English: Korrigans are described as druistes who oppose Christianity when the Apostles came to convert Brittany. They hate priests, churches, and  Saints.  They can predict the future, change shape, and move at lightning speed. They sing and comb their long hair, and they haunt fountains and water wells. They have the power of making men fall in love with them, but they then kill the ones who do. In many popular tales, they are eager to deceive the imprudent mortals who see them dancing or looking after a treasure, and fond of stealing human children. On the night of 31 October (All Souls’ Day =Halloween!!), they are said to be lurking near dolmens, waiting for victims! Here is an Arthurian webpage in French on some stories of Korriganshttp://legendes.korrigans.free.fr/?cat=3

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The créperie restaurant Les Korrigans at Plumelec is a country setting full of little figurines or korrigans as well as portraits of them. The food is typical Breton and with many prices from local travel guides like the Le Routard, and name by the Brittany tourist house as part of the designation Créperies Gourmandes. The Brittany tourist board in English on Les Korrigans: https://www.brittanytourism.com/offers/creperie-les-korrigans-plumelec-en-2012369/

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The couple owners are fast and courteous and as the time went by more and more talkative. The food is excellent, we had a bottle of Colpo demi sec cider locally done, and the galette of Teuz with the local andouillette sausage and potatoes, and a crêpe of banana, with coconut ice cream, chocolate syrup and flakes of coconuts, express coffee and all came out to less than 20 euros per person! Les Korrigans webpage: http://creperieplumelec.com/

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And we came back home after another nice encounter in my beautiful Morbihan at traditional Plumelec and enchanting créperie Les Korrigans. Hope you enjoy the post and see the other on the town. Thanks for reading me over these years!!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

January 8, 2021

La Roche Maurice and the Church of St Yves!

Ok so I will revise and update links on this one; it is not really old post as it is from 2019 but very little shown and it must. This is wonderful old La Roche Maurice and its main Church of St Yves. Let me tell you the update on it. Hope you enjoy it as I do.

This is could be an off the beaten path site for many. However, the locals know it well and we love it even the market.  I have crossed greatly if a lot is still to see and I am amazed of the monuments of great architecture and historical value here.  I have told you about it in pieces but the Church of St Yves in La Roche Maurice, dept 29 of Finistére deserves more credit.

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The Church St Yves, dedicated to Saint Yves, dates from the 16C and was built from 1509 to 1589 at the site of the Church or Castral Chapel of 1363, founded by the family Rohan, Lords heirs of the Viscounts of Leon.

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The Bell Tower of about 60 meters high dates from 1589. At the base of the Bell Tower, there is an ionic gate dated 1589, accosted and topped by niches sheltering the statues of Saint Yves, Saint Pascal Baylon and Saint Vincent Ferrier. The south Portal is dated 1550. The cowl of the southern Portal dates from 1520-1530 with the canopy of the cowl is adorned with four busts and is topped by the statue of Saint Maudez or Maurice, in Abbot’s outfit, c.1520.

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Inside, there is a remarkable Renaissance-style rood screen of the 16C. Behind the altar is a large stained glass window dated 1539. The front door, dated 1550. The coat of arms of the northern Altar is from 1545. The altarpiece is from 1650 , stained glass, dated 1539 with a   surface is 21 meters and has 15 scenes depicting the passion and resurrection of Christ. There are the 14 coats of arms of Rohan and allied families. The five lancets present a detailed account of the passion of Christ and the crucifixion occupies the two upper registers of the three central lancets.

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The panelled vaults have carved sandpits and beams of scenes from daily life done in 1559-1561. The rood screen of the Church of St Yves is with that of the Chapel of Lambader, one of the most beautiful of Brittany. Executed around 1570-1580, in polychrome carved oak, it is composed of a gallery surmounted by a Christ in the Cross surrounded by the Virgin Mary and Saint John. It includes 12 statues depicting Saints on either side of the transverse gallery but also characters, monsters and grotesque or fabulous masks at the pillars and sub bases.

Beyond the rood screen, in the north side, one recognizes the ox of Luke, the lion of Mark and the eagle of John. The second series, below the rood screen, carries live scenes: pouching scenes, burial of a corpse with crossed legs and lying on a cart drawn by two horses. On the nave and in the niches of the gallery are the nine Apostles from left to right are Philip, André, Thomas, Jude, Matthew, James the miner, Mathias, Simon, James the major and undoubtedly three Popes, the seated characters, wearing a tiara in the niches. On the choir side and in the niches of the gallery, there are many saints venerated in Brittany such as Saint Paul Aurélien and his dragon, St. Augustine or St. Blaise, St. Christopher, Saint Michael terrassing the Dragon, Mary Magdalene and her vase, Christ risen, St. Catherine, St. Barbara and her Tower, Saint Apolline and the pliers of her torment, St. Dominic or St. Gilles, St. Genevieve and her unquenchable candle, St. Margaret and her dragon.

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Aside from the Church of St Yves you can see an Ossuary quite impressive too. Built between 1639 and 1640 as the Saint Anne chapel. It has five windows on each side of the central entrance and above the door a triangular pediment. On the façade seven carvings depict seven people from different levels of society and death is represented with the “Ankou”,(skeleton)  armed with an arrow and giving the chilling warning “I will kill you all” (“Je vous tue tous”) and another inscription of 1640 reminds us that we are of but dust (“Souviens-toi, homme que tu n’es que poussière”). ” Remember men that you are only but dust”. Built in a mixture of Logonna stone and schiste and in the Renaissance style.

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A pretty site to see worth the detour me think ,and see the castle as well (see post). Some webpages to help you plan your visit here are:

The city of La Roche Maurice on the St Yves Churchhttp://www.larochemaurice.fr/fr-fr/patrimoine/l-eglise-saint-yves-et-l-enclos-paroissial

The Landernau-Daoulas area tourist office on the St Yves Churchhttps://www.tourisme-landerneau-daoulas.fr/sortir-bouger/activites-culturelles-et-patrimoine/patrimoine-culturel/enclos-paroissial-de-la-roche-maurice-5072

The SPREV association for preservation of the heritage on the St Yves Churchhttp://www.sprev.org/centre-sprev/la-roche-maurice-eglise-saint-yves/

It is a nice ride here and like I said worth the detour to see the beauty we have in off the beaten path sites of FinistéreBrittany in my belle France. The Church of St Yves will be good to see.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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