Archive for August 25th, 2020

August 25, 2020

Saint Malo: Ramparts II !!

This is huge and wonderful ramparts and a must to visit and climb over to see the city and the sea as well as islands before you. Its the first thing we do upon arriving to Saint Malo, well sometimes we eat first but the ramparts are a must right away!

In continuation of part I , let me continue the walks on and by the ramparts of Saint Malo!!!

The tour Bidouane tower is with its original horseshoe shape characteristic of its time. From the upper platform, discover one of the most beautiful viewpoints of the ramparts: in front of you, admire the coast from Pointe de la Varde to Cap Fréhel and behind you, discover the city dominated by the spire of Saint-Vincent Cathedral .

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

A few meters away, you will pass over the Porte des Champs-Vauverts which gives access to the Bon-Secours beach but above all to the Grand Bé. Depending on the tides, the peninsula becomes inaccessible, leaving Châteaubriand (who is buried there) to its torments (see post).

Continue your walk on the ramparts to arrive at the Porte des Bés, pierced in 1884 in the Tour Notre-Dame. This is where the Saint-Malo people took the steam shuttles to reach the Rance. When you are in perfect alignment with the Bon-Secours sea swimming pool, you pass without knowing it over the Poterne Jean de Chatillon, pierced in 1757, condemned in 1871 then reopened after the war.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

In 1871, the Porte Saint-Pierre gate replaced the Bon-Secours postern, which had become too narrow. On one of the facades adjoining the ramparts, you will notice the restaurant “Les Chien du Guet”, a reference to the mastiffs that were released every evening around Saint-Malo to prevent any intrusion. In 1684, their niches were moved under the Bastion de la Hollande. Continue on your way to the Bastion of Holland. You will meet Jacques Cartier, a great explorer from Saint-Malo made famous by the discovery of Canada.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Before reaching the Bastion Saint-Philippe, whose name is a tribute to Philip II of Orleans, Regent of France, you will pass over the Poterne d’Estrées which gives access to the pier shore. Take a moment to admire the scenery. In front of you, you will see the city of Dinard.

The Bastion de la Hollande; was built in 1674 after a collapse of the land on a place called Moulins Collins and a windmill from the middle ages demolished. It was call Hollande because it was done during the war against the Dutch.   It had cannons put there by the Count of Toulouse who was the governor of Bretagne at the time. There was a ammunition depot guarded by 24 mastiffs dogs that were led out for walks once the bells of the Naguette tower had sounded. There were call back by the horns. These dogs not well fed could attack people and they did like in 1770 killing the of a naval officer returning late from visiting his girlfriend.   The town decided to get rid of the dogs and the naguette bells were put in the cathedral where they now sound each evening at 22h (10 pm).

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

The Porte de Dinan, formerly the Porte de la Marine, this access was also called the Bishop’s Door, because the men of the Church had to enter through this door on their first visit to the city. Continue a few more meters to arrive at Bastion Saint-Louis, so named when it was built in honor of Louis XIV. On the ground floor of this bastion is a shed which, during the French revolution housed the guillotine. Today, the statue of the famous corsair Duguay-Trouin proudly stands in the center of this stronghold. Last stop to conclude our walk, the Porte Saint-Louis, which was opened in 1874 to make access to the Intra-Muros easier for passengers on ships coming from England.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

The tourist office of Saint Malo on the rampartshttps://www.saint-malo-tourisme.co.uk/explore/a-box-of-delights/the-ramparts-of-saint-malo

This is wonderful and one of the best if not the best preserve ramparts along the sea of France and maybe Europe. Saint Malo is unique and a great place to hang out indeed up on the ramparts! Hope you enjoy it as we did

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

Tags: ,
August 25, 2020

Saint Malo: Ramparts I!!

And here I am again trying to get used to this new wordpress editor which is to be dump! I am back from Saint Malo one of my favorite cities in my lovely Bretagne. They are of course in Ille et Vilaine dept 35. We have been here before but this is new text and new photos. Hope you enjoy it.

We come by the Porte Saint Vincent one of the gates to the intra muros or enclosed city and we love it. Even coming by car and going around the roundabout is wonderful to see it. Let me tell you a bit on it ok

The Porte Saint-Thomas, the first of the name, because there will be two others. It opens between two towers, the old dungeon, and the square tower; A second Porte Saint-Thomas is opened in the northern rampart, in front of the tower Quic-en-Groigne, allowing to leave the city. The second gate St. Thomas is destroyed with the old rampart and rebuilt in the new between 1737 and 1742. It is the third gate St. Thomas, which overlooks the cale and the Evantail beach  it still retains the old elements of the counterweight of its door. The Grand Porte ( big door), also called: the Sea Gate, because originally, the boats came to moor there. It consists of two towers with a firing platform with machicolations to quadruple heights. It’s the oldest door.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

The Grand’Porte is, along with the Porte Saint-Thomas, the oldest in Saint-Malo. For several centuries, it was the main entrance to the port. In 1552, two towers on each side came to strengthen it. Above the entrance, you can admire Notre-Dame de la Grand’Porte, a statue of the Virgin and Child.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Probably dating from the 15C, sailors have found this marble statue floating in the water. Also nicknamed “Our Lady of Miracles”, legend has it that in 1661, she stood up to the flames that were ravaging the city and stopped the fire. During the French revolution, the statue will be beheaded. Currently, it is a copy that adorns the Grand’Porte de Saint-Malo. The original, meanwhile, was installed in the Cathedral of Saint-Malo after a recent restoration.

By taking the rue Jacques Cartier, famous for its many restaurants, you arrive in front of the Porte Saint-Vincent, the second stop on our walk.   It was in 1709 that the Saint-Vincent district was built out of the rock. The door, built in the same period, takes the name of the deacon martyred in Spain in the 6C.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Very quickly, this gate becomes the main entrance to the Intra-Muros and will be split in 1890. If you are curious, leave the old town and look up. Two shields appear on the front of the door: on the left, a portcullis surmounted by the ermine of the Dukes of Brittany which represents the coat of arms of the city and on the right the ermines surmounted by a crown symbolizing the Duchy of Brittany.

Upon re-entering the interior of the Intra-Muros, you will face Rue Saint-Vincent, the main artery of the old town. Head on your right towards the Hôtel Châteaubriand. On your right, you can see the entrance to the Château de Saint-Malo, built in 1424 by the Dukes of Brittany. It now houses the Town Hall of Saint-Malo as well as the City Museum (in renovation opens in 2022).

st malo pl Guy La Chambre intra muros aug20

After leaving the Hôtel Châteaubriand on your left, you will arrive at the foot of the Porte Saint-Thomas, built in 1737. Although it now gives access to the Plage de l’Eventail and the Fort National, it was previously called the porte de Sillon because it opened directly onto the strip of sand connecting Saint-Malo to the land. During the tides, the rising waters, the local Malouins were entrenched within the city.

The tourist office of Saint Malo on the ramparts: https://www.saint-malo-tourisme.co.uk/explore/a-box-of-delights/the-ramparts-of-saint-malo

And there you go hope you enjoy the ride with beautiful views of the city, the sea and the ramparts of Saint Malo. Awesome!! A nice youtube video to set the tone me think

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

Tags: ,
August 25, 2020

Saint Malo and its streets!!!

Ok there is sometimes the course of action to write about some minor point in a town or a great monument. We forget the main thing that takes us there ,the architecture, the history, and the ambiance of the place. Cities are all made of the three and without it there is no soul me think. I did not took photos of all the streets but you get an idea.

I always make a point to walk the cities and towns I visit, even if it takes me a couple trips. You get the idea, go walk and see it all before your eyes. This is about the streets of Saint Malo, in the dept 35 Ille et Vilaine in my lovely Bretagne and my belle France.

The rue Porcon de la Barbinais between place de la croix du fief et place du Pilori bears the name of a captain from Saint Malo made prisioner by the king of Morocco and sent back to king Louis XIV to negotiate the freeing of the Moroccans slaves. On a side apse of Saint Vincent Cathedral it connects to the port via the Grand Rue. Most of the houses here were destroyed during bombings of WWII with a new spiral for the Cathedral built in 1971.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

The Rue Thévenard, bears the name of an admiral Antoine-Jean-Marie Thévenard in the French navy who lived in Saint Malo and is buried in the Panthéon of Paris. The houses here were rebuilt after WWII by 1947. There are arches here built featuring the bishop of St Malo with a whale and a virgin.

The Rue Saint Sauveur; takes its name from the old church gone thru several renovations. The first church was built in the 17C to serve the hospital that was beginning to fall in ruins from 1734. It was replaced by the current church from 1738-1743. The old church was burned down in 1944 and now used as a cultural venue as a chapel. The old hospital was never rebuilt and now in its place there are housings.

The rue d’Asfeld, marked the boundary of the second and third town expansion was named after Claude Bidal who was the Marquis d’Asfeld and inspector general of France’s fortifications. At No 5 called Hôtel d’Asfeld was build from 1724 to 1730 for François Auguste Magon de LaLande one of the directos of Saint Malo’s East Indies Company (see post). It’s the only house with a basement level to be used as storage. At no 1 the house was built with Mexican plasters earned from seafaring along the Pacific ocean which were done for one of the directors of the East Indies Company. At No 7 lived his last years Joseph Trublet de Nermoins or father Trublet member of the Académie Française. At no 10 is the former Hôtel Lemoine which was used as a bank early in the 20C with the coat of arms of Saint Malo and Saint Servan. At No 12 there is an old house from the 17C.

The Rue Saint-Vincent serves the neighborhood built from 1708 to 1710. In 1792, it was named rue des Sans-Culottes. It ended roughly at the place where the Croix du Fief stood , there is a fountain and statue from 1819. At this street there was the Hotel known as Hotel La Mennais. Built from 1712 to 1713. It has undergone numerous transformations; its wall fence with balusters was demolished in 1896; its large gate was rebuilt at the castle of Beauregard, in the Grève de Chasles, in Saint-Servan. There is my parking here Parking Saint-Malo Quai Saint-Vincent P7 – EFFIA. There are also many shops there which are open every day of the week even Sunday!. In addition to traditional souvenir shops or typical Breton clothing stores. The street is a shopper’s paradise!!!

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

The Rue de Dinan runs from Place du Marché aux Légumes to Porte de Dinan. Originally, the northern part of this street was called rue de la Vicairerie because of the presbytery which was in this part, before 1790. From the Place Brevet of uncertain origin and up to the rue d’Estrées, it bore between this street and the rue de Dinan, the name of rue de Coëtquen, because of the governor of the city in 1715. Under the French revolution it was called rue de l’Egalité and the other two rue de l’Abondance. They were brought together in 1739 under the name of rue de Dinan.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

The Rue Jacques Cartier, you will inevitably find your happiness there! Already, we really like the special atmosphere of the place, with all these little restaurants hanging on the ramparts. Jacques Cartier was a navigator, French explorer and writer through his travelogues. Born in 1491 in Saint-Malo, he died there on September 1, 1557. Mandated by the King of France François I, he approached the Gulf of St. Lawrence in 1534 and explored the surrounding territory he called Canada (from the Iroquois kanata, village). Author of maps, Cartier, through his “Relations”, is the first European to describe and name these waters, their shores and their inhabitants. He made a second trip in 1535-1536 and a third in 1541-1542.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

This Place Chateaubriand square is located just behind the Saint-Vincent gate, the main entrance to Saint Malo intra muros. It brings together many hotels and restaurants including the famous White hotel at number 2, in which Chateaubriand lived from 3 to 8 years. The Malouin writer and his family were dislodged by a fire in 1776 and then returned to settle in the birthplace of François-René, the Hôtel de la Gicquelais located at number 3 rue Chateaubriand. The Historical Monuments assoc have since rebuilt the facade of the White Hotel dating from the 18C. On this square are also the Château de Saint-Malo, the Tour Quic-en-Groigne and the History Museum of the city (until dislodge on a new site and museum by 2022).

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

At no 14, Rue Broussais there is a superb mansion, with large windows separated by pilasters, with capitals of a different order ,Ionic, composite and Corinthian, also known under the name of Hôtel de la Marzellière or Maison du Dais d ‘Money.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

The name of the place des Fréres Lamennais was given in 1968 to the square which previously bore the names of Place Duguay-Trouin and Place de la Grande Commune or de la Réunion. J. –M. Robert de La Mennais was the founder of the Brothers of Christian Instruction of Ploërmel and of the Dames de la Providence of Saint-Brieuc, who had before 1944 a boarding school located on the east side of this square. Brother Robert de La Mennais, who called himself Lamennais, was a reforming philosopher condemned by the Pope because of his very visionary ideas which ended up being recognized.

This square is located on the site of the main garden of the former bishopric, suppressed in 1790. Its buildings, extending from the site of the current Hôtel des Finances to the cathedral, housed the city/town hall, the sub-prefecture and the courts. The south side of the square has retained its old houses, including the rear facades of No. 5 rue du Boyer which bears the vintage of 1714. The post office, dated 1828 and located on the west side of the square The east side of the square is bordered by a reconstructed islet which also gave the plans for what was originally to be the city/town hall, north of the square which finally became the Treasury building. In 1999, during the construction of an underground car park, the remains of a Neolithic site were unearthed in the basement of the square.

Now what you see is all new! The Place des Fréres Lamennais. The main square of Intra-Muros where children’s games sit alongside several public benches in the middle of the trees. Of the 19 trees on this square only 3 were cut, those which were located just in front of the old treasury hotel. This will allow this building to be connected again with the square, as it always has been in the past. The children playground was moved to the center of the square to take advantage of the sun, and the former treasury center was transformed into a 4-star hotel. The Le Grand Bé with 62 rooms on 4 levels with restaurant (100 indoor and 35 outdoor seats), swimming pool in the basement and SPA, outdoor terrace and seminar room. Exactly at 1 Place des Frères F and Jm Lamennais.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

The tourist office of Saint Malo in English: https://www.saint-malo-tourisme.co.uk/

The city of Saint Malo tourist office at Esplanade Saint Vincent: https://www.ville-saint-malo.fr/tourisme/

And there you go , hope you take the bite and do walk the Intra Muros or enclosed city of Saint Malo. Lovely place, full of wonderful architecture and history and good chow! See you soon!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

Tags: ,
%d bloggers like this: