Archive for July 13th, 2020

July 13, 2020

Mûr de Bretagne!

So here I am on my nostalgic run on a nice sunny Sunday at home. This is part of my  road warrior trips in my lovely Bretagne going everywhere.. Well sometimes just going as so much to see. While going north on the D768 from home direction Pontivy hook up with the D767 there and continue on it right straight to the city/town hall of Mûr de Bretagne! I was just passing visiting friends up the road at Le Haut Corlay, (see post).

However, I have stopped here and took a quick look on a quant little town of my Bretagne that I like to tell you a bit more on it just for the memories and my blog ok. Hope you enjoy it.

Mûr-de-Bretagne is a former town in the Côtes-d’Armor department 22, in the region of Bretagne. This town merged on January 1, 2017 with the town of Saint-Guen to become the town of Guerlédan. The former Mûr-de-Bretagne is a small enclave with shops, located east of Lake Guerlédan. The central road axis RN 164 passes north of the village. Mûr-de-Bretagne comes from the Breton “muriou” or wall and owes, it seems, its origin to a Roman station that was on the way from Rennes to Carhaix. From the arrival of the Bretons in Armorica (from the British isles, current Bretagne), Mûr is part of the county of Cornouailles. It was in 1280 that we find the first mention of Mûr-de-Bretagne.

Things to see here are the Sainte-Suzanne Chapel (see post we stopped here), approved a renovation of “the Breton Sistine chapel”, thus nicknamed by the quality of the exceptional character of its painted vault, represents a work of   970K€, including the renovation of the roof, the frame , painted vault, and consolidation of the walls. I don’t expect work to start before 2022.

Other things to see and not stopped here are the Church of St. Pierre built from 1873 to 1881 , on the pulpit, the carved panels represent the seven deadly sins. The Saint-Jean Chapel   1762-1803). The Chapel of Notre-Dame de Pitié or du Pénity 1729. The Roche-Guézennec castle 17C, former seat of the Roche-Guéhennec lordship. The Château Le Cerf 19C, property of the Le Cerf family, andtoday belongs to the town of Mûr-de-Bretagne (Guerlédan).

Still others to see are the allée couverte de Coêt-Correc, Castle of La Roche-Guéhennec, the barrage and Lac de Guerlédan, the biggest lake in Bretagne. We have been but passing and no photos. More on the biggest lake(artificial) in Bretagne here: Lake of Guerlédan practical info

The leisure activities park or Base de Plein Air et de Loisirs de Guerlédan with more on the leisure activities around the above lake here: Leisure activities park near lake Guerlédan

The hilly town is a favorite of the Tour de France (last in 2018), impressive even with a car. Altitude is 293 meters with 2,2 km long however with a drop in elevation of 144 meters and going from an average of 6,55% to a maximum of 15% steep!

Mur de Bretagne approaching town feb20

The new city of Guerlédan on the Mûr de Bretagne in French: City of Guerlédan on history of Mûr de Bretagne

And there you go folks another road warrior trip by yours truly, I go anywhere roads of any types , you give me a space/hole and I go in with my car; best way to see anywhere point A to B. Then, of course as mentioned do some walking ,is even good for you lol! Hope you enjoy the brief introduction to what is was and still call Mûr de Bretagne or the wall of Brittany!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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July 13, 2020

Loudéac, a Chapel , and more!!!

This was a short business trip and found another little corner of Bretagne, right in the center of it, and later decided to show the family, a new place such as Loudéac, and nice to be there on your way to the coasts. We headed for Loudéac, along the D778.

The town of Loudéac is located in the Côte d’Armor dept 22 of the region of Bretagne. Loudéac is at about 20 km from Pontivy, 37 km from   Saint-Brieuc, 58 km from Vannes, 80 km from Rennes and 383 km from Paris. The town of Loudéac is located in Gallo country, on the linguistic border which separates the regions where one spoke Breton (in the west) from those where one spoke Gallo (in the east). Gallo is taught in public colleges and high schools in Loudéac. Breton was spoken in the town until the 15C.

Here we visited the nice Church of Saint Nicolas,(see post) , and the Chapelle Notre Dame des Vertus, which I would like to tell you more now but before a bit on the town of Loudeac. A bit on the history that believe not have told you before.

At the beginning of the Middle Ages, the territory that would become Loudéac and its surroundings was used as a hunting rendezvous in the Brocéliande forest. It was not until the mid-11C that the foundation of Loudéac as a city was fully recognized. This city, which was long in the hands of the Dukes of Rohan, was renowned for its fairs and markets. In 1263 Loudéac, at the time still called Lodeiac, obtained the title of parish. In 1591, Jean d’Avaugour’s gangsters attempted to take the Château de Loudéac, but failed. This battle is called the Battle of the Three Crosses and sees the victory of Jean V de Coëtquen, supporter of the King of France. A 20C monument commemorates this battle to this day at the intersection of rue Anatole Le Bratz and rue Docteur Robin.

During the French revolution, at the beginning of the anticlerical persecution, many priests went into exile to escape death. Others were hidden by the inhabitants of Loudéac. Constables deployed to seek and deport priests often closed their eyes instead of arresting them. In 1790, the canton of Loudéac is created and the city of Loudéac is established chief town. It remained so for ten years, until 1800. That year, the city became the capital of the district. On August 25, 1802, the Duke of Rohan was forced to cede the Château de Loudéac to Louis Henri Janzé. Some time later, on the night of September 19 to 20, 1802, the Château de Loudéac was destroyed by fire.

The district of Loudéac was created in 1802 , was abolished in 1926; and then became part of the district of Saint-Brieuc. As the region of Bretagne was far from the western front of the war,in WWI , the region’s industry remains safe from destruction. Almost 600,000 Bretons are incorporated, mainly in the army but also in the navy. Of these soldiers, approximately 140,000 lost their lives during this conflict. This rate of about 22% is higher than the French average (between 16 and 17%).  On July 4, 1944 there was a crime in the place called La Porcherie when seven resitant fighters were ambush andn killed by the nazis .In memory of the seven resistance fighters killed that day, a granite ordeal has been rising since August 1945 at La Porcherie, the scene of the crime.

The Chapelle Notre Dame des Vertus is not far in city center.  At the place there was a religious building dating from 1693 that was demolished due to bad conditions. In 1740, the cementary was done around the Chapel and finally closed out in 1804.  A new chapel is built in 1880 and open to the public in 1885. Many Sisters orders came here over the years, and a procession of the Virgin until 1954. It is a simple chapel full of calm and history. There is this description on a plaque outside of it.

Loudeac

The city page has more which I translate here the main parts:

From 1740 the cemetery was established around the chapel, Place Notre-Dame des Vertus. Indeed, the last burial in the Church dates back to 1737, after a first judgment of the Parliament of Brittany in 1719, prohibiting them inside the buildings of worship. The cemetery was moved in 1804.   In 1878, the town gave up a strip of land for free. The chapel was rebuilt in 1880. It was not until March 1885 that the new chapel was opened.   The first restoration which took place dates from 1949. These are the stained glass windows destroyed in 1944 as well as the interior of the chapel. In 1945, the bells were remelted and the Belfry was electrified. Recently, a new tabernacle was installed thanks to the subscription of the parishioners.

Loudeac

The Notre-Dame des Virtues Chapel was the old gathering place for the Trottine good sisters or good sisters in the open air wearing a special headdress. Tertiary of various orders, they vowed poverty and chastity, gave religious instruction, rendered many services to families, and were the example of perfect Morals. The forgiveness of Our Lady of Virtues, was the Assembly of Loudéac. During the Pardon, the statue of the Virgin was carried in procession in peasant costume. Forgiveness took place on the second Sunday in May at least until 1954. This procession was moved to May 31, after dark, among the illuminated houses, before disappearing. Note the neo-Gothic style of the Notre Dame des Virtues Chapel, the false vaults of warheads in the transept and small low chapels in each wing of the main chapel. This and more in French at the city of Loudéac in French here: City of Loudéac on the Notre Dame des Virtues Chapel

Loudeac notre dame des virtues chapel dec16

And there you another dandy place to be in my beloved Bretagne and this time north at dept 22 Côte d’Armor! At only 57 km from my house or about 55 minutes. Hope you enjoy the post on Loudéac , a really off the beaten path dandy of a place.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

July 13, 2020

Cholet: Brasserie Le Grand Café!

And I guess left the best for last maybe? I have come for a revisit and a bit more time to Cholet, in the Maine et Loire dept 49 of the Pays de la Loire region of my belle France.

We walk the streets and even move by car in the city with easy nice inexpensive parking (see post), and saw several monuments many for the first time. Cholet has more, time to plan for a return. It is worth the detour and only at less than 2 hrs from my house!

As we move about the town , there is always time to eat. Well we walk so much that almost made a faux pas in eating habits in France. Lunch is between 12h and 15h but many restos by the time 14h30 arrive they will tell they are full taking no more patrons. The reason, the employees need to go home and eat see the family have their siesta to come back for the second tour by 19h.  We arrive at the Brasserie Le Grand Café by 14h30, I call and we got in!!! La vie est belle!!

cholet

They say in their webpage: For more than 20 years, the Grand Café has welcomed you in the historic setting of the old City/Town Hall (see post) and the Vendée War History Museum. In this exceptional site in the heart of city center/ downtown Cholet, we have created an atmosphere in the great tradition of Parisian brasseries. We welcome you on the terrace, under our large canopy Baltard or in one of the large rooms to taste our brasserie specialties.

cholet

And I add that it is open from midday to midnight 7 days a week. An impeccable service , wonderful food and just prices with a great view of Place Travot, can’t ask for more this is Cholet and this is my belle France! Its terrace makes it the place where you can see everything that moves and where you have to be seen! Deco 1900 for its two rooms.

cholet brasserie le grand cafe terrasse to entr jul20

We arrive almost or at the cut off point for refusals, and no reservation, I call just around the corner to ask if ok to come in , and right away they say ok, we went in and voilà heavens on earth. We act it quickly as the poor guys needed to go for lunch in fact they say goodbye to us while having lunch themselves.

cholet brasserie le grand cafe resto to pl travot jul20

We had a bottle of red 2018 Domaine des Coutures Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil, the Loire reds we love so much and this one was superbe! A bottle of course. We had three rumsteak steaks with different sauces mine was pepper or poivre and fries with green salad. One of my son’s opted for the canard and chicken skewes grill and we all had the café gourmand plate of little sweets with expresso coffee so popular here. All for under 28€ per person, the price was right and as said great presentation, service and décor of the place with a great view of the wonderful Place Travot. Recommended!

cholet brasserie le grand cafe domaine des coutures SNB red 2018 jul20

cholet

cholet brasserie le grand cafe on cafe gourmand jul20

Their official webpage is here: Brasserie Le Grand Café de Cholet

One of the positives of living in France, good food ,wines and views all over. The Pays de la Loire has an inmense reservoir of sites to be visited we have some as in previous posts,and we have a lot to go still! Hope you enjoy the Brasserie Le Grand Café in Cholet as we did and will surely be back.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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