Archive for June 26th, 2020

June 26, 2020

Gare de Nantes!!!

Well here I am again to tell you about a train station, ho ho ho. Yes folks again, I do take public transports in France as needed. You know my line…. is a custom to do so here ,and I am following right alone the practices. And this is from even before moving permanently to France and before been a French citizen….. train travel is a every day life chores here.

One of the train stations I have used the most in France is the one in Nantes. Simply because in my going out of my area, the Nantes Atlantique airport (see post) is a requirement and from close to my home either Auray or Vannes there is TER connection to the Gare de Nantes, and then an airport express bus to the airport. So when duty calls, and the car is not, then the train it is, and Nantes wins heads down.

Therefore , let me tell you a bit on the Gare de Nantes or Nantes train station. A bit of history I like is call for…

The Gare de Nantes train station ,formerly the Gare Nantes-Orléans train station is the main passenger train station in the Nantes area, located in the Loire-Atlantique department 44, in the Pays de la Loire region. The Gare de Nates replace in the   mid-tw20C the old station of Nantes-Orléans, run by the company of Paris-Orléans. The former central station of Nantes, the Orleans station is built on the site of the Prairie de Mauves which was call as such until 1887, at rue Stanislas-Baudry, that is to say slightly further west of the current station. It was inaugurated in November 1853, two years after the arrival of the first trains from the Orleans Railway Company.

The gare d’Orléans station is then a line terminus coming from Paris-Orléans station, today Austerlitz. It consists of a hall closed by a western frontispiece, surmounted by three sculptures representing the alliance of Nantes with the Loire and the Atlantic Ocean. To the north, the building adjoins another station, that of the Petit Anjou, a local line which served Cholet from the east, while following the tracks of the State network.  The Loire floods, which threaten the collapse of the platforms on which the tracks are located, could thus can cause a significant disruption of rail traffic to the port of Saint-Nazaire and the seaside resorts of the Côte d’Amour, for the authorities, the pretext for starting work to fill the northern arms of the river and its tributary, the Erdre. Severely damaged by the bombings of WWII, the building was gradually dismantled from 1949. The restructuring of the post-war SNCF network leads to the centralization of passenger traffic at Orléans station at the expense of the State station, which keeps only its freight activity.

It was not until 1965 that work was undertaken to build an entirely new station. The works were completed in 1968, and it was not until May 28, 1972 that the gare d’Orléans station took the name of gare de Nantes station. The gare sud or south station was inaugurated in 1989 for the arrival of the TGV. More modern than the gare nord or north station, it has a Richemont stone facade made up of a large glazed hall made of canopies made of cable beams. The roof of the building is made of a polyester fabric and coated with PVC. It has several ticket offices, a tobacconist, a tea room and a cafeteria. The hall also gives direct access to the Mercure hotel. It is connected to the main underground by a large gentle slope, and to the small underground located to the west by a staircase and an elevator. The two stations are thus directly connected by two passages. The whole station includes two passenger buildings to the north and south of the 15 tracks, an administrative building on the north side, as well as two overhead car parks near each of the two passenger buildings. The passenger building covered on the terrace, 160 meters long, has a basement, a ground floor and a first floor with a central hall of 644 m2 rising over the entire height of the building. The administrative building rises 30 meters high with a basement, a ground floor and 7 additional floors to the east of the passenger building and has the same decor and materials on the east and west facades as the latter. On the west side of the departure hall, a large sales area has been set up where you can inquire and buy or exchange tickets. On the east side is a tobacco / press and a bakery / pastry shop. A large underground passage leads to the gare nord in the departure hall by a gentle slope and to the arrival hall by stairs. A narrower underground passage west of it leads only to the departure hall by a staircase and an elevator. It has been closed since 2018 as part of the work planned for the new development which will see the light of day in 2020…. Access to tracks 1, 52, 53, 54 and 55, however, is directly from the departure hall which is open to the platform.

nantes

nantes

The gare de Nantes train station is connected to Paris Montparnasse in 2 hours + and to Lyon, Lille, Marseille, Strasbourg and Montpellier directly by TGV. In addition, an international Nantes – Brussels link is open, thanks to the extension of an already existing Nantes – Lille relationship. Intercity trains also serve the gare de Nantes station to Bordeaux and to Lyon. The station is also the point of convergence of the main TER Pays de la Loire lines and in particular the Interloire line, in collaboration with the Centre-Val de Loire region, to and from Orleans. Also, with the TER Bretagne coming from Auray or Vannes the ones I take. A very nice ride indeed and very much on time!

nantes

Nantes

Plenty of interconnection here and even great covered parkings that I have used even when just visiting the city on a personal family visit.

Nantes

There is the Tramway line 1 direction François Mitterand / Jamet Beaujoire / Ranzay Station located in front of the station, North side or gare nord.

nantes

The Gare Routiére or bus terminal is located on the esplanade Pierre-Semard which notably links the city center and the Commerce station. The bus Line 5 which has its terminus at Gare Sud serves the île de Nantes, via Malakoff, and only serves Commerce by night service. The station Duchesse Anne – Château , which connects tram line 1 with bus line 4 is about 400 meters from this tram station. The bus station gare sud has urban and interurbain buse lines, the local ones are the lines C2 Gare SNCF Sud-Le Cardo, line C3 Boulevard de Doulon- Boulevard Charles Gautier, and line C5 Gare SNCF Sud – Quai des Antilles.

The lines Chronobus C2, C3 and C5 as above do the first two connect the city center and the Commerce station: the C2 then joins the Cardo district in Orvault in the north, while the C3 connects the Dervallières district in the west to the Doulon district in the east, via the Malakoff district. There are ,also, 21 departmental and regional bus lines on the TAN network also serve the gare sud or south train station. More info on TAN in French here: https://www.tan.fr/fr/itineraires

The one I take always is the Airport Express Bus (see airport post). The most practical ,connecting the airport with the train station gare Sud or South station at Quai Malakoff, along the canal St Félix ,on the south side of the train station. The ride is very nice, every 20 minutes or so and leaves you at both in just across the entrances. I have used it extensively these last several years. The cost today (before the virus) was 9€ one way. You go outside cross the arrival road across Hall 2, clearly mark. Official TAN (bus/tramway network of Nantes) schedule and prices are here: TAN bus network of Nantes on the airport express bus

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here are

The SNCF on the Gare de NantesGares et connexions SNCF on gare de Nantes

The Oui SNCF on the Gare de Nantes and local transports: Oui SNCF on gare de Nantes and transports

The TER trains of the Pays de la Loire region on Gare de Nantes: TER SNCF on gare de Nantes

The city metro area of Nantes on public transports and trains: Metropole Nantes on public transports

The Nantes tourist office on Gare de NantesNantes tourist office on Gare de Nantes

You are now well arm to whiz thru the Gare de Nantes in style and feel the breeze of the sea nearby, not to mention easy walk into city center, where I have even stayed in hotels on my travels in and out.

It’s a smallish train station and very easy to navigate with plenty of panels. Once into the tunnels to the platforms you need to compost your ticket in yellow machines at the entrance to the tunnel or underground passage. There is plenty to eat and drink on lighter side of things at entrance to this passages and on the ticket counters facing esplanade Pierre Semard. Not to mention just across the street are my favorite eating outs already mentioned in previous posts. Hope you enjoy the trip and the beaches in Summer and Nantes a wonderful historical city of my belle France.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

June 26, 2020

A wine museum in Bordeaux!!!

Well, perhaps you have heard of the great cité du vin in Bordeaux, as everyone is talking about it. However, for the traditional wine lover in me, I prefer the smaller more intimate and winegrowers of the land place. This happened while walking in marvelous Bordeaux as our intention that day was to walk along the Garonne river in the Chartrons district.

The museum has been located since 2007 at 41 rue Borie in the building of a former Irish merchant, built just 300 years ago.   The Bordeaux Historia Vini association is behind the opening on June 26, 2008 of the Musée du Vin de Bordeaux or the Bordeaux Wine and Trade Museum in the Chartrons district.

The wonderful old fashion rue Borie lies between the Cours Balguerie Stuttenberg street and Quai des Chartrons. Passing by wonderful street crossings especially from the river banks into another nice museum that have not been the musée d’Histoire Maritime of Bordeaux on a one way street towards the river. You will be glad you walk all over here, but if not, from old center you can take tramway B to stop or arrêt Chartrons, get on rue Borie towards museum on your right hand side.

For a wonderful walk go from the Place des Quinconces walk toward the river onto the Quai Louis XVIII turn left alone the Garonne river with its wonderful views and boats.  Continue until just before the water tower or Fontaine Eau you will turn left into rue Borie and continue until the museum. Sublime walk. Hope you enjoy it.

In three semi-buried cellars, the Musée du Vin de Bordeaux presents a collection of unique historical objects, multiple testimonies from the past to the present day, including work in the cellars and exports. Several major themes are addressed within the museum , namely the explanation of the Bordeaux wine trade system; the history of the great families of traders of the 18-19C; the different classifications: that of 1855 (the classified growths of the Médoc and Sauternes), that of the Wines of the Graves (1953/1959) and that of the Wines of Saint-Emilion of 1959; the sulfur revolution and the breeding work in the cellars of Chartrons; and the Port of Bordeaux and wine exports.

Bordeaux

In another cellar there is space for the presentation and exhibition of objects and visual supports for the museum . And another cellar, you have a tasting area as well as a shop in the old cooperage of the building. You will see wonderful Art exhibitions in the entrance hall. Regular seminars and conferences in the room of the Cellier des Chartrons are held ,see schedules in webpage.

The official Musée du Vin de Bordeauxwine museum of Bordeaux

The tourist office of Bordeaux about the museum: Bordeaux tourist office on the wine museum

And there you go a nice walk from city center Bordeaux to another magical world of Bordeaux and its wines.  There is a world of education on wines to be had here and very nice folks. Hope you enjoy the Musée du Vin de Bordeaux.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

June 26, 2020

Fontainebleau: Chambre de l’impératrice!

And here I am back to one of my all time favorite places in my belle France and not just the castle but the town too. As said in many posts not to repeat myself ,the Château de Fontainebleau is very special to me. As written many posts on it and the town, let me give some of the spots not mentioned enough me think , in the past.

This time let me tell you a bit more on chambre de l’Impératrice or Empress’s bedroom. Oh yes some figures to bring it back to perspective: The Château de Fontainebleau is 20,000 m2 of roofing area, 1,530 rooms, 115 hectares of parkland; 14 hectares for the large flowerbed garden, 1,145 meters in length of the canal, and 16,000 work of arts preserved.

A preview, the apartments of the Empress Joséphine located on the ground floor (1st FL US) of the wing of the royal apartments, Joséphine’s apartments were fitted out for her in 1808, from a suite of rooms with Louis XV-style paneling. They were occupied by Empress Marie-Louise from 1810.

Chambre de l’impératrice or the Empress’s bedroom. The furniture in this small room consists in particular of a singularly crowned bed, enlarged in 1843 for one of the daughters of Louis-Philippe and their husbands, in white silk and blue lapis broché d ‘or. This room has housed the queen’s bedroom since the 16C, and it was there that the Grand Dauphin, son of Louis XIV and Marie-Thérèse, was born on November 1, 1661. This room is thus nicknamed the “bedroom of the six Marys”, in reference to the different sovereigns who used it such as Marie de Medici, Marie-Thérèse of Spain, Marie Leszczyńska, Marie-Antoinette, Marie-Louise de Habsbourg, and Marie-Amélie. The room was refurbished for Joséphine between 1805 and 1807, before being inhabited for the last time by the Empress Eugenie.

Fontainebleau

The bedroom furniture retains its condition from the First Empire, restored in 1986. It consists of a four-poster bed made in 1787 for Marie-Antoinette in walnut wood and golden linden, in just three months and delivered to Fontainebleau on October 30, 1787, adorned with golden garlands and a paper lampas bought in 1790 by the furniture storekeeper in bankruptcy of the Lyonnais manufacturer Gaudin and embroidered by the widow Baudoin reused in this room in 1805, surrounded by a golden balustrade covered with green velvet in 1804 for the throne of the Palais des Tuileries (see post) and altered in 1805; ceremonial armchairs decorated with sphinxes circa 1800 and dressers dating from 1786 and placed in this room in 1806 as well as stools.

Fontainebleau

The bedroom presents a set of three pairs of Sèvres porcelain vases, decorated with flowers and fruit, and dated to the beginning of the 19C. The room also retains a pendulum decorated with Zéphyr et Flore, made in 1804. The main part of the painted and gilded wooden ceiling was made in 1644 for the Queen Mother Anne of Austria from a redesigned in 1747 , composed of a main circular medallion with radiating compartments from which hangs the chandelier, confined to four other medallions decorated with the arms of France and Navarre, adorned with widow’s cords in homage to Anne of Austria, the woodwork, the alcove ceiling above the bed is a corresponding dome the enlargement of the room under Louis XV, decorated with fleur-de-lys and the queen’s number “M”, the pier glass, part of the paneling and the fireplace in purple breccia for Marie Leszczyńska in 1746 and 1747, and the doors painted are in faux mahogany in arabesque styles as well as the trompe-l’oeil door mimics imitating ancient bas-reliefs with scenes evoking sleep, washing, etc. for Marie-Antoinette in 1787.

Throughout this series will repeat these two webpages in English, one from the castle and the other the tourist office of Fontainebleau.

Official Chateau de Fontainebleau

Tourist office of Fontainebleau on the castle

And there you go a splendid room to be see always at the Château de Fontainebleau and a memorable moment for me all the time , whether visiting it or watching it or reading about it. This is Fontainebleau; hope you enjoy the brief tour.

And remember, happy travels, good health and many cheers to all!!!

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