I give you or giving me another sentimental look at Meaux. In these days of need and hopes, I can only come back to my roots in France and a lovely lady I met in Meaux back in September 1990. We then went on long visiting my Florida USA and then visiting my belle France over the years until finally settled down in France as French in 2003. And on we went into the Morbihan Breton after a stop in Versailles enjoying fully this beautiful country, the no 1 most visited country in the world by UN WTO and for good reasons. The trail ended when she passed away April 30 2018 from the dreaful cancer but hopes continue with my boys in France, by now our adopted country and the only one we will live until the end.
Let me share bits and pieces of previous posts and some photos, on the town that made it all happened, Meaux, dept 77 of the Seine et Marne in the Ïle de France region in my Belle France!
The city can claim wholly this beautiful Gothic St Stephens Cathedral (St Etienne) , and its episcopal palace now Bossuet museum , the garden done by André Le Nôtre!!! the remains of the medieval ramparts, and its historical festival recreating the middle ages! In 1681 Bossuet was appointed Bishop of Meaux and remained so until his death in 1704. In the meantime , been the confessor of king Louis XIV!; and known as the Eagle of Meaux. The Royal family (Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette) , during the dramatic return from the Varennes flight, spent a night in Meaux. In the 19C, the Marquis de Lafayette (he who helped US independence) was a deputy for the district of Meaux, especially in 1827. During WWI or the Great War (1914-1918), Meaux was the scene of the First Battle of the Marne, which shook the Seine-et-Marne region. Many memorials abound.
The town is divided into quartiers or neighborhood some newer away from the river and the old ones from times afar such as the city center or centre ville, and ,the Marché , just across from the bridge over the Marne river, the Faubourg Saint-Nicolas (where my dear late wife Martine was from), the Châage-Saint Faron or area of the hospital (where she was born), and the ave de la Republique/La Croix de Varenne, from where the escapee Louis XVI was brought back to Paris spending a night here. The Faubourg Saint-Nicolas extends to the east of the city, along the great eponymous artery, formerly known as the route d’Allemagne (road of Germany). It is circumscribed by the avenues of Maréchal Foch, du Maréchal Joffre, de la République, du président Salvador Allende,and the streets of rue des Béguines and rue des Cordeliers , and of course rue Noëfort (where she lived before meeting me).
The Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Nicolas is none other than the Decumanus Maximus which crossed the ancient city from east to west. In the 5C, there was St. Céline, a friend of Saint Geneviève; On her tomb, placed extra muros in the ancient tradition, arose a church that had to endure until the French revolution. So along this wonderful street off my dear late wife Martine street, we found our bakery of old; and of course we purchase the baguettes, apple pie ,chocolate flan, to take to the family as sharing is a French passion especially when food is concerned. The bakery is Le Fournil du Faubourg (under new owners) at 52 rue du faubourg st nicolas.
You have the marché or market in city center around the blvd Rose,and the Marne river or around the cinema Majestic every wednesday mornings, Saturday all day, and Sunday morning. Under the covered market in just over the river Marne you will find merchant selling the real brie cheese with unpasteurised milk. For the brie cheese and many other do come to La Fromagerie de Meaux,4, rue du Général Leclerc, city center off rue st Remy. Another favorite boulangerie is the Boulangerie Prentignac, 31, rue du Faubourg St Nicolas.
There is the mustard of Meaux, well renown, the story goes well there is no telling when it was created !!! all we know is that in 1760 someone gave to a Mr. M.J.B Pommery , the secret recipe for the mustard, that has by priviledge be presented on the tables of the kings of France since 1632 , the house of Pommery came to be located at 69 rue du Faubourg St Nicolas until 1927 refusing to give the secret away, at that time the last descendant of the house sold the business with recipe and all . Still commercialise all over by this webpage ,and you can buy it too in many stores in Meaux, the manufacture is an adjacent town where we have family too. More info in English here: Mustard of Meaux a story
And the real Brie de Meaux, the king of cheeses, the cheese of kings , Vienna congress 1815. Indeed, and there are lots of imitations and even those claiming to be using the same method but in far away lands ,even in France. Remember the real Brie de Meaux is made from milk cows in the Brie country around Meaux and prepare and done in traditional manners in and around Meaux, today only two do it here and one more in Jouarre. The rest is consolation anywhere ::)
When not in the market we come here to buy our Brie de Meaux and only in person. The one in Meaux has been doing for years from generation to generation and the one our family buys from. This is the Fromagerie de Meaux Saint Faron. Here it is produce as well as the smaller cousin of Melun. You can have tours and tastings as well. There is no webpage but the tourist office has info in French here: Tourist office of Meaux and fromagerie St Faron
You can, also, buy here in town center at La Maison du Brie de Meaux is a boutique that is right in the Episcopal palace next to the Bossuet Museum that also acts as the tourist office. You can buy it direct too. 5 place Charles-de-Gaulle. More here : City of Meaux on La Maison du Brie
There is a Confrerie du Brie de Meaux or fraternity that guard over the authenticity of this cheese and keeps the real traditions, more info in French here: Confrerie du Brie de Meaux
I had the great pleasure to eat at the same pizzeria that I ate when came to live in France permanently in 2003, and still with same owners!! Somedays did not want to eat with the In-laws for no particular reason and stop in city center to eat and this was the place very friendly, great ambiance and right prices. When visited the town afterward with the family I brought them here too. This was at the Pizzeria Villa Roma at Avenue Salvador Allende webpage is here: Pizzeria Villa Roma at Meaux
For entertainement with the family head over to the Majestic theater or cinema, my first movie and have come back for more! Now part of the UGC cinema group;more here in French: UGC group on the Majestic cinema of Meaux
There you go folks, a town, a place on earth very sentimental and nice for me to remember always. Other than my sentimental rant, the city is a very important tourist destination for the French due to its Cathedral, Brie cheese ,and middle ages festival done live on public stages all over town. It is also, a great place to be while visiting Disneyland Paris bus take you there and at Meaux life is cheaper… Hope you enjoy the post.
I will always remember Meaux, and Seine et Marne of which I am for a long time friend of the castles of Fontainebleau and Vaux-le-Vicomte, jewels of France and the world. Hoping you too get a chance to visit Meaux.
And remember, happy travels, good health, andn many cheers to all !!!
Paris1972-Versailles2003 
Leave a Reply