Archive for December 14th, 2019

December 14, 2019

The market at St Brieuc!

Well by now if have been reading my blog you know we love the markets in our belle France. Tradition obliges and the very best from mother Earth are a must! Granted you always have to look at the labels but in general view the markets are what France brings out to the world in culinary tradition. Forget the modern trends of hypermarkets etc; head for the markets in any town in France.

We have gone to several over the years and have our favorites close to home, however, we have come to some newer ones in our lovely Brittany. This time I stay in the Côtes d’Armor dept 22 up north and the town of Saint Brieuc.

Saint Brieuc

The market here is modern not history on it but the food and the crowds are just as nice and if you are driving traveling by here is a must. The road N12 connects you to all of Brittany and the TGV Atlantique stops here too.

The halles covered market at Saint-Brieuc are open Wednesdays and Saturdays. They are the biggest in the whole dept 22  Côtes d’Armor. Open from 8h to &3h at the Place de la Résistance in city centerThey are spread outside into the  place du Chai and the place du Martray.  In them , you have merchants offering flowers, fruit and vegetables, local products and confectionaries and prepare foods. All goodies!!!

Saint Brieuc

Some webpages for guidance are

City of St Brieuc on the markets

Tourist office bay of St Brieuc on markets

And there you go another round of markets in the north of the region of Brittany, up my alley but not close, anyway the road warrior has been everywhere! And for markets we smell the food km away and search for them, this is living at its best. Be at a market day in France should be your hightlight of the visit! yes I say so.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

December 14, 2019

A walk by the Jardin des Tuileries!

I was back and what a better way to have a walk in my eternal Paris. Many come for exciting and impressive buildings and expositions, but to me the real beauty of Paris lies in its streets and architectures, the bohemian look at the places, the wrinkle in the eye, and the km of wonderful walk in street or garden areas. One of my favorites of all time is the Jardin des Tuileries, and would like to take you on a tour around and close to it. Sit back and enjoy Paris ::)

paris

It was the grand design of king Henri IV who wanted to link the Louvre to the Palais des Tuileries (today gone due to the communards of 1871) . It is 27 hectares or 66.7acres full of history and beauty.

In or around it ,you have the Carrousel  was in honor of the son of king Louis XIV of which a great feast was held here with a horse race. It was eventually done as an arch by Napoleon I in 1806 to celebrate his victory at Austerlitz in 1805. It has similar tracing to the arch of Septime Sévere in Rome.  The wonderful Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel.

paris

Right at its Marsan wing of the Louvre museum you have from 1905 the musée des Arts Décoratifs,(you know there is more than one museum at the Louvre ::)) It has 9 levels of exhibition showing work from the middle ages to our days. Objects from Sévres and Meissen as well as a room from the hôtel de Serres of the 18C. In the Pavillon Marsan (the one link to the previous palais des tuileries) you have two more museums; In the first and second floor you have the musée de la Mode et du Textile, fashion and fabric museum with dresses going back to the 14C. At the third floor you have the Musée de la Publicité or marketing/commercials. Dont missed to see in the second floor (3fl US) the galerie des Bijoux or about 800 pieces of jewerly of the best creators from the world over.

paris

Descend now to the glorious gardens ,Jardin des Tuileries, it look like in the 17C all reminders of the Second Empire period (Napoleon III) . They look just like André Le Notre the gardener envision it.  It was shortly on july 1559 after the sudden death of king Henri II that his wife Catherine de Médicis ordered build a palace, work began in 1564 on the verge of the old tuileries (this was a roof tile maker outfit on the bank of the river Seine in the middle ages, the tiles were use for the Louvre and others, then it disappeared to make room for the palace and garden hence the name Tuileries =rooftiles). The garden at its time was considered the prettiest in the West, done 500 by 300 meters (1650 x990 feet). So  in 1789 king Louis XVI left Versailles for this palace. it was the seat of the royals in the restauration period and the second empire periods. Napoleon III ordered built two building at the west of the garden, the Orangerie (1853) and Jeu de Paume (1862). In March 28 ,1871 the communard set fire on the palace des tuileries and the city of Paris razed it down in 1883. Now you see the terrace between the building or pavillon Flore and Marsan that link it to the Louvre.

You come out into the Grand carré, geometric parcels of garden in the central alley and two small fountains on the sides. It is here that was the center of Le Notre ‘s garden. The tree lined part is the Grand Couvert with some sculptures including bronzes by Rodin,the Grand Bassin or fountain is surrounded by sculptures as it was in Le Notre’s time as well.  As mentioned there you ,also, have two wonderful museum such as the Orangerie done in 1922 to house the Nympheas of Monet; at the end of the tour in the museum you will see a piece of the old wall of Paris from the 16C call the yellow wells or fossés jaunes. At the Jeu de Paume you see comtemporary arts exhibits.

paris

At the south of the jardin des tuileries you will see the new passarelle Léopold Sédar Senghor(old pont de sulferino) , a bridge of 106 meters (350 feet)  allowing pedestrians to go from the museum of Louvre to the Orsay. At this side is the museum of the Legion of Honor or Musée de la Légion d’Honneur, once you descend to it by the river side you are in the old port des tuileries that replace that of the port du Louvre of the middle ages. Right underneath the passarelle next to the river, you have a grill doors against the wall that remind you of the passage in the “les misérables” of Victor Hugo. At the other extreme you have the Pont de la Concorde (1791) that was widen from 14 meters to 35 meters in 1931. passing under the bridge the river bergers that goes to the level of the quai de la conference or the cours de la reine began here at the southwest angle of the place de la Concorde.

paris

Entering the garden from the pl de la Concorde you will see right away the equetrian statue of Coysevox brough from Marly-le-roi (78) in 1719. These are imitations the original ones are in the Louvre.  By your left going in,you see statues by Paul Belmondo (brother of actor Jean Paul Belmondo) and a statue of Charles Perrault because it was this famous actor of children stories who we owe the opening of the jardin des tuileries to the public. Do you know the pyramide du Louvre done by the Architect IM Pei in 1988 has 21,65 meters high(71.4 ft) , with a base of 34,50 meters of side (113.9 ft) assembling 673 glass tiles and triangles of glass of 2,1 cm thick( 5.3 inches)that needed two years of study by Saint Gobain(glass maker).

I dont have to tell you about the Musée du Louvre,,,,, or the wonderful Louvre des Antiquaires where the Grands Magasin or stores of the Louvre were founded in 1906. Today it houses about 206 stores. You can come out on the other side and see the wonderful Church of St Germain l’Auxerrois fromt he 7C,and 12C, and last from the 15C. It was the church of the valois kings and then of the artists such as Le Vau, Gabriel, Coysevox, etc.  The Bell tower gave the signal for the Saint Barthelemy the 23 august of 1572. And right next to it is the Clinique du Louvre ,yes a health clinic very good, my father was care there very well , succesful surgery lol!!!

paris

belltower of city hall, church St Germain et building on right is clinique du Louvre

Right around the corner of the rue Marengo and rue de Rivoli you will see the Oratoire du Louvre, a chapel done  in 1616, it was royal and was added to the Louvre compound by king Louis XIII, bishop Bossuet (the eagle of Meaux 77) came to pray here. It is not under the reformist church since Napoleon I allow it. The Palais Royal is magnificent, done by 1629 as it was first call the Palais Cardinal as per Richelieu and from 1633 the actual name of today. It houses the Council of State,and the ministry of Culture but it has wonderful gardens and many nice shops to rest and think the beauty around you .It is under renovation now with scaffolds around it but still beautfiful ::)

Here you can indulge in my favorite cafe, the Cafe L’Imperiale at rue d Rivoli. A must hangout for many years including now! Have a great walk in my favorite parks of Paris.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

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