Archive for September 13th, 2019

September 13, 2019

Church of San Ginés de Arles, Madrid yes!

So we are moving along right? Hope you are keeping track of the posts; it will be an avalanche as I took more pictures than ever before! The blogging is a virus lol! Well let me get back on track ok

This Church is in a very popular congested and touristic area of my beloved Madrid yet its a bit precluded and I believe many passed by unnoticing a pity. Its one of the symbols of Madrid for the local and I used to hang around it on many nights of spiritual needs after a night out at the nearby joy eslava lol! Well it will be a bit long but its time I give credit to the great Church of San Ginés de Arles of Madrid!

The Church of San Ginés (as is more commonly call)  is under the invocation of San Ginés de Arlés , notary martyr, and seat of the parish of San Ginés of Madrid. Its facades are located at Calle del Arenal No. 13 corner of Calle Bordadores, No 8 , and the Plaza de San Ginés ; and the Pasadizo de San Ginés in a very popular spot. The church was built in the middle of the 17C, and next to the paintings and sculptures that it houses inside, it forms an important historical, artistic and architectural complex of the so-called Madrid of the Austrias.

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A bit of history I like

The first references to a temple dedicated to San Ginés de Arlés in Madrid date from the beginning of the 12C, estimating that the origin of the cult of the French Saint could be traced back to the moment of the conquest of Madrid, when Raymond of Burgundy, son-in-law of Alfonso VI , established in 1086 his camp, with his hosts formed by Burgundians and Franco-Provence, near the site of the current temple. The first documentary reference is a privilege granted by Alfonso VII in 1156 by which he granted to the church the manor over the villages of Salvanés, Valdearacete and Valdecetias. Still in 1467 it was, one of two only one located outside the walls of Madrid.

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In 1869, the City Hall decided to transform the north side, which overlooked the Calle del Arenal , a road that was becoming one of the most important in 19C Madrid. The work was finally executed by 1870–1872, characterized mainly by its carpal arches and neo-Plateresque style.

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From 1956 to 1964 the last great set of works was made in the church. With this last one, it was sought to give the temple again the appearance it had in the 17C, typical of the Madrid of the Austrias. Therefore, the plaster of all the walls was completely erected, and the original frame was rebuilt: solid brick alternating with flint masonry boxes. In the tower, however, the original brick remained. In addition, the 19C and neoplateresque ornamentation of the openings was replaced by another more similar to that of the 17C.

A bit of architecture I like

The current structure corresponds to the reconstruction of the temple after the collapse of the primitive and possibly Mudejar in 1641. It is a brick and masonry church with a cover at the foot and another on the side of the Gospel that is accessed from an atrium. It has a quadrangular tower at the foot, of four bodies, with four bells, the two most primitive of 1566. The interior is of three naves, the central one is wide, with deep chapels on the sides, cruise and rectangular presbytery and choir on high feet. It is covered with a barrel vault with lunettes supported by Tuscan pilasters. The side chapels are also covered with domes emptied on scallops. Different is that of the Blessed Christ at the base, almost an independent church and with its own doorway to the atrium, with a Latin cross plan, barrel vault with lunettes and dome on scallops covering the cruise, with drum and lantern, all decorated with marble marbles. colors and stucco paint faking marble on the nave. In the head of the temple three altarpieces of neoclassical style and modern making are located, being the area most affected by the fire of 1824. The collaterals are dedicated to the Virgin of Valvanera, of the Royal congregation of natives of La Rioja, and San José, The main altar restoration carried out in 1826; It follows the model of the one that existed before that fire, which was no longer the Baroque altarpiece and is occupied by the great painting of the Martyrdom of San Ginés a recreation of the destroyed oil of Rizi, of which the church retains the sketch.

A bit on the description inside briefly ok

The works of art at the base of the nave are: Entering the temple through the nave of the Gospel is first called the Baptismal Chapel, in which a canvas of the Annunciation of Luca Giordano is located, a copy of an original of Tiziano preserved in Santo Domingo Maggiore of Naples. The painting, together with a Prayer from the lost garden and the same author, was acquired in 1669 by the Congregation of the Holy Christ for this chapel. In the same place there are two carvings in 18C polychrome wood, a Saint John the Baptist and a Christ Risen from the Madrid school. On the opposite side, side of the Epistle, is one of the masterpieces of the church (only shown on Saturday mornings from 11h30 to 12h), the Expulsion of the merchants from the temple or Purification of the temple by the El Greco, which is the last of the versions left of this matter by the Cretan painter and the only one of vertical format due to the greater development of the architectural scene. The painting, which had belonged to the collection of the Admiral of Castile, was acquired by the Congregation of the Blessed Christ in 1705 and remained in its chapel until the remodeling started in 2002.

The Chapels on the side of the Gospel are: The first and most prominent of the temple is the Chapel of the Blessed Christ of Redemption:  The Chapel of the Virgin of Beautiful Love in the direction of the headland the first of the chapels is dedicated to the Virgin of Beautiful Love in a neoclassical altarpiece topped with a medallion of the Education of the Virgin. Follow the Chapel of La Soledad or the Barrionuevo, for having belonged to García de Barrionuevo, father of Jerónimo de Barrionuevo, famous author of the Avisos de Madrid (notices). The Chapel of the Virgin of Guadalupe formerly dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Bari, all its decoration, except the size of the saint in the altarpiece attic , 19C, is a modern work, inaugurated in 1969. A copy of the Virgin of Guadalupe, Patroness of Úbeda (Jaén).

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The Chapels on the side of the Epistle are: The Chapel of the Virgen del Carmen ,first from the head, it contains a modern altarpiece imitating the neoclassical style, with a sculpture of the titular Virgin of the early 19C and two angels with little previous lamps: the Chapel of the Holy Family chaired by a canvas of the Holy Family entered in 2008: the Chapel of the Virgin of the Head,the invocation of the chapel and its decoration of tiles is modern, dating from 1932: the Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows , the chapel was formed in the 20C, blinding the gate to the Plazuela, dedicated to the patron saint of Granada. Its decoration, from the 1930s: the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception It occupies the main altarpiece imitating the neoclassical style a canvas of the Immaculate: the Chapel of Our Lady of the Castle formerly dedicated to the Virgen de los Remedios, with an altarpiece from the early 19C as the sizes that integrate it of San José, San Juan Evangelista and San Antonio de Padua. Under the altar is buried Pilar Cimadevilla, a ten-year-old girl.

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The Sacristy keeps a 16C Italian table with inlaid marble board and a basin of the same century given by quenn Isabel II. Silver pieces and liturgical ornaments of the 18C and 19C. Two polychrome wood carvings of Santo Domingo de La Calzada and Santo Domingo de Silos that were the altar of the Virgin of Valvanera, and some paintings of interest: a canvas of the Virgin with the Child, from an Italian school of the 17C, Christ crucified , Good Shepherd , oil that is part of an Apostolate owned by the Prado Museum, San Juan Bautista, replica of a painting by Mateo Cerezo preserved in the Kassel Museum, and San José with the Child

In the parish archives, it is kept the baptismal items of the infant Catalina Micaela, second daughter of Felipe II, baptized on October 19, 1567, and Francisco de Quevedo ,September 26, 1580 are preserved; as well as marriage records of Lope de Vega with Isabel de Urbina May 10, 1588, and Francisco Javier de Goya and Bayeu, son of Francisco de Goya, who acted as godfather July 8, 1805; and death certificates of the musician Tomás Luis de Victoria and the painters Juan Pantoja de la Cruz, Juan van der Hamen, Juan de Espinosa, Juan Bautista Martínez del Mazo and Francisco Herrera el Viejo.

In all a very nice monument to see with plenty of architecture and history of my beloved Madrid. I hope that while you walk to eat your churros with chocolates at San Ginés you can stop by this same name Church! The Church of San Ginés de Arlés! 

The tourist office has some info on it here: TOurist office of Madrid on the Church of San Gines

There you go another gem in my Madrid, enjoy it. And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

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September 13, 2019

Real Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, Madrid of course!

This one have not been in years, and wanted to show this part to my sons so we took the trek first by bus 46 to the Puente de los Franceses or bridge of the French and then walk back on Avenida de Valladolid to Paseo de la Florida and the Glorieta to arrive at the Royal Hermitage of Saint Anthony of Florida and Goya! We call it Real Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida! Where the painter Francisco de Goya is buried.

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The Royal Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida is located in the square of the same name, and is considered as the only survivor of the three hermitages dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua there were on the outskirts of Madrid ( at one time there were Florida, Alemanes and Retiro). There are two similar hermitages that since 1929 have specialized in two aspects: one of them offers the public the wall decorations by Francisco de Goya (being also the painter’s museum and pantheon), while the other is enabled only for religious worship.

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The followers of San Antonio were called in the Madrid of the 16C with the nickname: guinderos or cherry pickers literally. The reason for this appellation was that his devotees wore a scapular in the neck with the representation of a cherry and arrived on June 13 offered the so-called cherries of the saint. It is precisely when the congregation of the guinderos is founded, when the first hermitage is built in 1720.

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Shortly after being crowned King Carlos III ordered the demolition and new construction of the hermitage in 1768, then the hermitage of Sabatini was dismantled in the year 1792 on the occasion of a new urban remodeling of the area.

Carlos IV acquires the nearby Florida Palace, owned by the Marquis de Castel Rodrigo, to build a royal estate on his land. The works of the Royal Possession of Florida began immediately, between 1792 and 1798, including in the construction process also the nearby hermitage designed decades earlier by Sabatini. This meant the demolition of the hermitage, and the new stables of the Florida palace are built in its place. In 1792 the king himself laid the first stone of the hermitage, included in the event a time capsule consisting of gold coins with his effigy. The works finished in 1798.

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At the beginning of the 21C, a neoclassical hermitage with a very simple Greek cross floor was built, with a dome with lanterns, on pedantries. The use of the hermitage was extended allowing the use of the chapel for worship, with what happened to be called San Antonio de la Florida. Inside Francisco de Goya painted some frescoes on this building in which he represented one of the saint’s most famous miracles. It is worth noting the representation of men and women dressed in majos (traditional men of Madrid) and chisperos (or working class men). The hermitage was converted into a parish in 1881 by the Royal Heritage giving the hermitage in usufruct to the archbishop of Toledo. Precisely when the popular festival of San Antonio de la Florida begins to be celebrated nearby

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In 1919 the remains of Goya were transferred from the Sacramental of San Isidro to the hermitage. An image of the sculptured painter was also placed. Concern about the state of conservation of the frescoes of Goya caused to commissioned a new hermitage that began to be built in 1925. This new hermitage, twin of the previous one, was dedicated exclusively to religious offices. The Royal Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando is responsible for the care of the hermitage, where Mass is celebrated on March 30 and April 16, dates of the birth and death of Francisco de Goya y Lucientes.

The Aragonese (Goya) , as a chamber painter, was in charge of making the decoration of the hermitage, work that he carried out in six months, between August and December of the year 1798. At the foot of the presbytery is the painter’s pantheon, in which the gravestone he had in the cemetery of Bordeaux, city in which he died, is preserved. Martín Miguel de Goicoechea, his great friend, is buried next to him. On September 29, 1919 they were buried together, to avoid a possible error in the identification of the mortal remains. Goya’s body lacks a skull, as it was probably separated from the trunk for phrenological analysis.

On June 13, the traditional festival (verbena) of San Antonio is celebrated every year near the hermitages, in the area known as La Bombilla (a park), which goes to the Puente de los Franceses or bridge of the French (which we walked).

The Royal Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida is located in the Glorieta de San Antonio, 5, on the banks of the Manzanares River. A convergence in which the Paseo de la Florida and Avenida de Valladolid joins. From the Principe Pio station you can reach the hermitages by walking along the Paseo de la Florida where the avenue of Valladolid begins.(as we did too) EMT buses on Lines 41, 46 (we took it) and 75. Metro lines 6 and 10 as well as the R radial of Opera-Principe Pio.

Tourist office of Madrid on the Royal Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida

You should make the trek, with public transport is easy and great areas to see around as in my previous posts. The Ermita Real San Antonio de la Florida is worth the detour and of course to admire the paintings of Francisco de Goya anytime! as is Madrid ! Hope you enjoy it

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

 

 

 

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September 13, 2019

Shopping center and train station Principe Pio, Madrid of course!

So here I am getting a thin line, going all out to the outskirts of central Madrid and going by bus line 46 and then walking back ! A long walk but worth it, as I said walking is best in a city. I like to take you to the shopping center Principe Pio and the Cercanias suburbain train station of same name.

The building that houses the spectacular shopping extravaganza started life as the Estacion del Norte or North train station. It still performs that duty, though to a much lesser extent today than it once did. It also has some bus lines such as lines 25, 33, 39, 41, 46, 75, and 138. We took the line 46 going all the way to the Puente de los Franceses or bridge of the French and then walk back to the Royal Palace !. It has as well a Metro station Principe Pio , all of which means that access to and from Principe Pío Shopping Center is about as good as it gets in Madrid. It is located at Paseo de la Florida no 2. The shopping center has three floors where you will find shops, restos and a cinema.In addition direct access to the cercanias train station. The Cinema info is here: Cinesa cinemas Principe Pio

The Centro Comercial Principe Pio  is very nice airy big as a train station and very clean facilities a wonderful place to spend some time and recharge for our walks,we had a nice shake yougurt ice of banana and mango here at Illallao store on the Cercanias station side upper level.

Official Shopping center Principe Pio

Tourist office of Madrid on the shopping center Principe Pio

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The Estacion del Norte was a train station in Madrid. Originally a now extinct company built it in 1861 provisional facilities in the place where the station was later built, due to the inauguration of the railway that went from Madrid to Irun (French border). The definitive station was inaugurated in 1882, becoming one of the most prominent of the North network as well as the Madrid stations. After the inauguration of the Chamartín station, its decline began when the rail traffic was transferred to the new station. In 1993 it was finally closed, being rehabilitated as an exchanger and a commercial center and renamed as the Principe Pío station.

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The works completely modified the facilities by opening a large hole in the center of the station under the canopies to accommodate the new metro lines 6 and 10, modifying the tracks to adapt the facilities to the Cercanías train service, as well as expanding the capacity of the railway ring road that was reformed, buried and fully integrated in the city under the action known as the Green Rail Corridor. With this action, the Cercanías service from the northwest corridor was allowed to pass through the station and continue south on the way to the Atocha station. Finally the new station was inaugurated in 1995, with its new name of Principe Pío.

Tourist office of Madrid on the Principe Pio train station

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And now you have great connection, good shopping center and the chance to leave the tourist center and see a bit more of my beloved city of Madrid. Hope you enjoy and the shopping at Principe Pio is nice indeed.

For the anecdote, who is the Principe Pio? well , he is Francisco Pío de Saboya y Moura was an Italian aristocrat and military men, in the service of the Crown of Spain. He held the titles of Marquis de Castel Rodrigo with Grand of Spain, Duke of Nocera, Count of Lumiares and Prince Pio (principe pio) and of San Gregorio.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

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