Church of Notre Dame de Trog-Wall at Clohars-Carnoët!

I went out today to see some of the coastal towns of my lovely Brittany , both in Finistére dept 29 and Morbihan my dept 56. And as usual in my road warrior drives past by the town but did not stop long. This time we did to see a bit of the monument in city center.

This is my first post ever on Clohars-Carnoët in the Finistére dept 29 of my lovely Brittany!! Well even locals, there is always a first, especially when so much beauty is around you ::) And of course, you come into the town on a off work day and most empty so what do you see first , the big Church in city center! Let me tell you a bit about it as I will be back too… Oh yes , the Church of Notre Dame de Trog-Wall!

But of course, a bit more on the town for reference me too!  Clohars-Carnoët is a town that includes the seaside resort of the Pouldu, the port of Doëlan and various beaches including those of Kérou and Bellangenet. It is bordered to the east by the Laita river, a ria separating it from the Morbihan dept 56. It is connected to it by the Pont Saint-Maurice ; and by an intermittent boat passage between the port of the Pouldu and Guidel-Plages . The coastline consists mainly of rocky cliffs of fairly rectilinear plotting facing south, even if their detail plot is sinuous, forming a succession of small rocky peaks such as those of Beg an Tour, Beg Ero Gamm or the Vache Noir (black cow ) ,opposite of which is an islet; and small coves such as those of Port Blanc, Stang Nabec, Stang Souc, and Porsac’h. The beaches being more numerous in the eastern half of the town’s coastline such at La Roche Percée, the Kérou, Bellangenet, and the Grand Sables to around the Pouldu. Two rias are located at both ends of the town’s coastline: to the west the Cove of Doëlan is the maritime part of the estuary of the brook of Pont Sénéchal and houses the small port of Doëlan.

The seaside resort of Pouldu occupies an old dune area which has been largely reduced. There are three fine sandy beaches there such as the Grands Sables, Bellangenet and the Kérou. The town has two small harbours, the Pouldu (meaning “black sea” in Breton), at the mouth of the Laita, and Doëlan rivers, nestled at the bottom of a cove, near the boundary with the town of Moëlan-sur-Mer (see posts on this town). Boat rides are possible on the Laita between the port of the Pouldu and Quimperlé. Doëlan is a small fishing port , retaining a dozen fishing boats, picturesque, which has been able to keep its authenticity, even if it is now especially a Marina that has 300 moorings.

A bit of history I like

The region of Quimperlé formed in the high Middle Ages the Pagus Karnoued , a historical country; It was a pagus, that is, an administrative subdivision of the Cornouaille. The parish of Clohars-Carnoët comes from the dismemberment of the former primitive parish of the Armorique of Mellac. In 1177, Saint Maurice de Carnoët, then Abbot of the Abbey of Notre-Dame de Langonnet, founded a Abbey called Notre-Dame de Carnoët near the banks of the Laita river, of which he was the Abbot until his death in 1191. The Abbey later took the name of Saint-Maurice de Carnoët Abbey as today.

The small town is famous !!! yes it has attracted many famous painters and writers to its tranquil beautiful settings and I won’t blame them but thanks them for discovering these beautiful spots.

Several painters and artists of the École de Pont-Aven also frequented the village of the Pouldu in the late 19C and at the very beginning of the 20C. In 1887, Marie Henry built the Buvette de la Plage, which was initially for the clientele of local fishermen and boatbuilders. But on October 2, 1889, Paul Gauguin and the Dutchman Meyer de Haan came to take boarding, joined by Paul Sérusier and Charles Filiger. Shortly thereafter, Henry Moret moved to the nearby port of Bas-Pouldu. Other painters such as Emile Bernard, Maxime Maufra, etc., and writers like André Gide; also attend the beach bar where happy musical evenings are organized. In the fall of 1889, the residents of the Auberge de Marie Henry decorate frescoes all inside the house; among them, the most well-known painting is probably Mary Henry breastfeeding her own child, from Meyer de Haan, who was her lover. Paul Gauguin definitely left the Buvette de la Plage (drinking spot) and the Pouldu on November 7, 1890. The frescos of the beach refreshment were sold and dispersed thereafter, but a reconstitution was made in a similar house in 1989. The Auberge de Marie Henry was therefore a place of welcome and meeting of painters. A route called the path of painters went thru the town , around the paintings depicting various places that inspired these painters. Among them are Henry Moret, Paul Gauguin, Meyer de Haan, Armand Seguin, Roderic O’Conor, Émile Dezaunay, Charles Filiger, Alfred Jarry, Jan Verkade, Jean-Bertrand Pégot-Ogier, Maurice Denis, Marius Gourdault, Nicolas Tarkhoff, Wladyslaw Ślewiński, Élisabeth Sergueevna Krouglikova, etc., and also the sculptor Olga Popoff.

The port of Doëlan has been frequented by many painters as well such as Henry Moret Émile Jourdan, Marius Gourdault, Jacques Vaillant, Maurice Elin, Émile Compard, Lucien Demouge, Harald Heiring etc., and writers like Pierre Mac Orlan before WWI, and Paul Guimard and Benoîte Groult more recently. They frequented the hostel of the mother of Bacon in Malachappe. The painter Pierre Jacob, better known under the pseudonym of Tal Coat, is the son of a fisherman from Doëlan.

Some of the things to see here and I will be back for reference are

Maison-Musée du Pouldu, aka Maison de Marie Henry. reconstruction of the 19C Inn, where the painters of the Pont-Aven school met. More on the house museum here: https://maisonmuseedupouldu.blogspot.com/

Abbatial site of Saint-Maurice on the banks of the Laita river , and ancient Cistercian Abbey. The Abbey Church of Saint-Maurice was done in the mid-19C and enlarged in 1845. It includes, preceded by a Bell Tower whose spire dates from 1774, a nave with four spans, a transept and a choir. The statues of Saint Cornély and Saint Vincent Ferrier are found there. More info on it are found here: https://abbayesaintmaurice.blogspot.com/

The parish Church of Notre-Dame de Trogwall dates from the 16C and is in the form of a Latin cross. It has been repeatedly renovated such as the south porch and the sacristy (now extinct) date from 1777, the Spire dates from 1794, the arches of the nave and the whole Church having been heavily reworked in the second half of the 19C. More on this Church and others is found here: https://www.clohars-carnoet.fr/patrimoine-historique/eglise-chapelles/

clohars carnoet

clohars carnoet

clohars carnoet

clohars carnoet

clohars carnoet

The tourist office for this area is here: Tourist office of Quimperle Terre Oceane on Clohars Carnoet

There you a wonderful spot, passing by now got a taste and we like , we shall return soon before summer , especially to see more of the painters stories. This is quant peaceful Clohars-Carnoët in the Finistére breton dept 29 less than an hour from my house lol!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

2 Comments to “Church of Notre Dame de Trog-Wall at Clohars-Carnoët!”

  1. Great post. From your photos, it seems like you like old churches and cathedrals as much as I do. I’d love to see Britany – it’s on my bucket list. Thanks for sharing.

    Liked by 1 person

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