Archive for May 4th, 2019

May 4, 2019

Guidel Plage, the beaches are back!

I went out today to see some of the coastal towns of my lovely Brittany , both in Finistére dept 29 and Morbihan my dept 56. We have come here before but as usual is this land of gems, time is not enough. So we had time and came back for a bit more of its beach ambiance and great food lovely views and discoveries. This is Guidel plage or Guidel Beach but as always here there is also a Guidel simple , the bourg or administrative part.

Guidel is located in the coastal area of the dept 56 of Morbihan,my home. It borders the Atlantic ocean, limited to the west by the Laïta river which marks the border with the Finistère dept 29. All in Brittany, of course!

A seaside resort of the coast of megaliths, its coastline has several sandy beaches. Which are big soft sand and great! It is currently included in the area of Lorient, and is part of Lorient agglomeration. With an area of 52.29 km2, it ranks among the largest town of the Morbihan. It is bordered to the west by the Laïta river which marks the boundary with the neighbouring Dept 29 of Finistère and to the south by the Atlantic Ocean. The town of Guidel, (the bourg) which serves as the capital, is the most important settlement. It occupies a central position within the towns limits. To the south, at the mouth of the Laita river, a large secondary settlement was developed, Guidel-Plages (which is heavens) . To the north, the village of Locmaria, constitutes a secondary agglomeration. The town of Guidel is located at about 10 km west of Lorient and   10 km south of Quimperlé. It is about 40 km (25 mi)from my house!

The maritime façade of Guidel stretches 4 km long from the mouth of the Laita river to the Fort du Loc’h. The coastline consists of long beaches: the beach of the Bas Pouldu or Guidel-Plages, located at the mouth of the Laita river are great! ; the Fort du Loc’h beach, and the Fort Bloqué beach. These beaches are separated by rocky areas with low cliffs. The beaches of Guidel are a surfing spot. They are among the ten most favorable sites for the practice of this sport in Brittany.

Plages TV on the Beaches of Guidel

Surfing forecast at Guidel

Great for boaters too , a nice marina, more info here: Ports of Lorient country, on the marina of Guidel

guidel plage

The town   of Guidel has a multitude of monuments, such as the tumulus of Kerméné, the Fort du Loc’h, as well as remnants of WWII bunkers. It has several other tumulus, dolmen and menhirs. The Chapel of Saint-Mathieu , located in the district of Saint-Mathieu and whose characters and phylactery of the outer wall of the south transept are protected relics here. The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul ; 19C; partially rebuilt after WWII. The Chapel of the Madeleine: the present Chapel dates from 1883, but on the site of an ancient chapel dating from the 18C of which only the small steeple was preserved, having probably replaced an older Chapel, reserved for lepers. The chapels bearing the name “La Madeleine ” are for this reason built away from the agglomerations. The Chapel has statues of St. Anne, St. Herbot and St. Magdalene, as well as a painting; Mary Magdalene in front of the Lord’s feet. It has as well several other Chapels. Some info below

The city of Guidel on its heritage

Tourist office of Lorient south Brittany on Guidel heritage

The beach is it here, and oh so nice, in good weather they can compete with any anywhere and I have been to some. This are wide extensive sandy, protected bay, and pretty sand dunes all around you not to mention the wonderful restaurants and bars lively daytime and nightime!  We have settle on one Le Roof.  Brasserie Le Roof invites you to a relaxing and refreshing break. On the large terrace, with breathtaking views of the sea and in the shade of the immense maritime pines propose, noon and evening, to enjoy in all conviviality and with the feet in the water the indispensable mussels-fries, the speciality of the house, but also grilled sardines, fish and chips , omelettes, cheeseburgers, mixed salads and ice creams.  And a nice Grimbergen brassin de printemps or spring brewing beer ! Open from 9h to 24h, seven days a week. A very pleasant place already couple times here all wonderful. More in their Facebook page here: Facebook page of Le Roof of Guidel plage

guidel plage

guidel plage

guidel plage

And of course ice creams galore at La Caramella kiosk right on the beach!

guidel plage

The Guidel are nice and surrounded by gigantic sandy beaches, Guidel Plage welcomes you for a relaxing seaside retreat. For a refreshing swim, you will be spoilt for choice between the beach of the Pouldu (best), that of the Falaise, that of the Loc’h or that of Fort-Bloqué. Thanks to the beach clubs, you can try all sorts of nautical activities from windsurfing to kayaking. A wide range of sports is at your disposal. Do not miss to visit the mouth of the Laita, this coastal Bay stretches between the Marina and the bridge of Saint-Maurice winding along a river of 15 km of litoral with irregular curves. like I said you will be in heavens.

guidel plage

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

May 4, 2019

Church of Notre Dame de Trog-Wall at Clohars-Carnoët!

I went out today to see some of the coastal towns of my lovely Brittany , both in Finistére dept 29 and Morbihan my dept 56. And as usual in my road warrior drives past by the town but did not stop long. This time we did to see a bit of the monument in city center.

This is my first post ever on Clohars-Carnoët in the Finistére dept 29 of my lovely Brittany!! Well even locals, there is always a first, especially when so much beauty is around you ::) And of course, you come into the town on a off work day and most empty so what do you see first , the big Church in city center! Let me tell you a bit about it as I will be back too… Oh yes , the Church of Notre Dame de Trog-Wall!

But of course, a bit more on the town for reference me too!  Clohars-Carnoët is a town that includes the seaside resort of the Pouldu, the port of Doëlan and various beaches including those of Kérou and Bellangenet. It is bordered to the east by the Laita river, a ria separating it from the Morbihan dept 56. It is connected to it by the Pont Saint-Maurice ; and by an intermittent boat passage between the port of the Pouldu and Guidel-Plages . The coastline consists mainly of rocky cliffs of fairly rectilinear plotting facing south, even if their detail plot is sinuous, forming a succession of small rocky peaks such as those of Beg an Tour, Beg Ero Gamm or the Vache Noir (black cow ) ,opposite of which is an islet; and small coves such as those of Port Blanc, Stang Nabec, Stang Souc, and Porsac’h. The beaches being more numerous in the eastern half of the town’s coastline such at La Roche Percée, the Kérou, Bellangenet, and the Grand Sables to around the Pouldu. Two rias are located at both ends of the town’s coastline: to the west the Cove of Doëlan is the maritime part of the estuary of the brook of Pont Sénéchal and houses the small port of Doëlan.

The seaside resort of Pouldu occupies an old dune area which has been largely reduced. There are three fine sandy beaches there such as the Grands Sables, Bellangenet and the Kérou. The town has two small harbours, the Pouldu (meaning “black sea” in Breton), at the mouth of the Laita, and Doëlan rivers, nestled at the bottom of a cove, near the boundary with the town of Moëlan-sur-Mer (see posts on this town). Boat rides are possible on the Laita between the port of the Pouldu and Quimperlé. Doëlan is a small fishing port , retaining a dozen fishing boats, picturesque, which has been able to keep its authenticity, even if it is now especially a Marina that has 300 moorings.

A bit of history I like

The region of Quimperlé formed in the high Middle Ages the Pagus Karnoued , a historical country; It was a pagus, that is, an administrative subdivision of the Cornouaille. The parish of Clohars-Carnoët comes from the dismemberment of the former primitive parish of the Armorique of Mellac. In 1177, Saint Maurice de Carnoët, then Abbot of the Abbey of Notre-Dame de Langonnet, founded a Abbey called Notre-Dame de Carnoët near the banks of the Laita river, of which he was the Abbot until his death in 1191. The Abbey later took the name of Saint-Maurice de Carnoët Abbey as today.

The small town is famous !!! yes it has attracted many famous painters and writers to its tranquil beautiful settings and I won’t blame them but thanks them for discovering these beautiful spots.

Several painters and artists of the École de Pont-Aven also frequented the village of the Pouldu in the late 19C and at the very beginning of the 20C. In 1887, Marie Henry built the Buvette de la Plage, which was initially for the clientele of local fishermen and boatbuilders. But on October 2, 1889, Paul Gauguin and the Dutchman Meyer de Haan came to take boarding, joined by Paul Sérusier and Charles Filiger. Shortly thereafter, Henry Moret moved to the nearby port of Bas-Pouldu. Other painters such as Emile Bernard, Maxime Maufra, etc., and writers like André Gide; also attend the beach bar where happy musical evenings are organized. In the fall of 1889, the residents of the Auberge de Marie Henry decorate frescoes all inside the house; among them, the most well-known painting is probably Mary Henry breastfeeding her own child, from Meyer de Haan, who was her lover. Paul Gauguin definitely left the Buvette de la Plage (drinking spot) and the Pouldu on November 7, 1890. The frescos of the beach refreshment were sold and dispersed thereafter, but a reconstitution was made in a similar house in 1989. The Auberge de Marie Henry was therefore a place of welcome and meeting of painters. A route called the path of painters went thru the town , around the paintings depicting various places that inspired these painters. Among them are Henry Moret, Paul Gauguin, Meyer de Haan, Armand Seguin, Roderic O’Conor, Émile Dezaunay, Charles Filiger, Alfred Jarry, Jan Verkade, Jean-Bertrand Pégot-Ogier, Maurice Denis, Marius Gourdault, Nicolas Tarkhoff, Wladyslaw Ślewiński, Élisabeth Sergueevna Krouglikova, etc., and also the sculptor Olga Popoff.

The port of Doëlan has been frequented by many painters as well such as Henry Moret Émile Jourdan, Marius Gourdault, Jacques Vaillant, Maurice Elin, Émile Compard, Lucien Demouge, Harald Heiring etc., and writers like Pierre Mac Orlan before WWI, and Paul Guimard and Benoîte Groult more recently. They frequented the hostel of the mother of Bacon in Malachappe. The painter Pierre Jacob, better known under the pseudonym of Tal Coat, is the son of a fisherman from Doëlan.

Some of the things to see here and I will be back for reference are

Maison-Musée du Pouldu, aka Maison de Marie Henry. reconstruction of the 19C Inn, where the painters of the Pont-Aven school met. More on the house museum here: https://maisonmuseedupouldu.blogspot.com/

Abbatial site of Saint-Maurice on the banks of the Laita river , and ancient Cistercian Abbey. The Abbey Church of Saint-Maurice was done in the mid-19C and enlarged in 1845. It includes, preceded by a Bell Tower whose spire dates from 1774, a nave with four spans, a transept and a choir. The statues of Saint Cornély and Saint Vincent Ferrier are found there. More info on it are found here: https://abbayesaintmaurice.blogspot.com/

The parish Church of Notre-Dame de Trogwall dates from the 16C and is in the form of a Latin cross. It has been repeatedly renovated such as the south porch and the sacristy (now extinct) date from 1777, the Spire dates from 1794, the arches of the nave and the whole Church having been heavily reworked in the second half of the 19C. More on this Church and others is found here: https://www.clohars-carnoet.fr/patrimoine-historique/eglise-chapelles/

clohars carnoet

clohars carnoet

clohars carnoet

clohars carnoet

clohars carnoet

The tourist office for this area is here: Tourist office of Quimperle Terre Oceane on Clohars Carnoet

There you a wonderful spot, passing by now got a taste and we like , we shall return soon before summer , especially to see more of the painters stories. This is quant peaceful Clohars-Carnoët in the Finistére breton dept 29 less than an hour from my house lol!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

May 4, 2019

Moëlan Sur Mer revisited!

I went out today to see some of the coastal towns of my lovely Brittany , both in Finistére dept 29 and Morbihan my dept 56. And of course , more gems and more beauty to behold and the weather was perfect at 22C sunny glorious by the coast.

I have been around here of course, but time told me to come back. Sometimes no matter how many times you come to a place there are always some things missed. So if we like a place, we come back for more bits of it slowly nicely the right way. Of course, I am lucky to be living nearby ! So let me tell you a bit more on Moëlan Sur Mer in the Finistére dept 29.

Moëlan-sur-Mer  is a town on the shores of the Atlantic coastline. The town is very cut off to the west, the Belon river is a ria that penetrates deep inland and separates Moëlan-sur-Mer from the town of Riec-sur-Bélon (more of it later), and to the east the rias of Brigneau and Merrien, which house two small ports; the remainder of the coastline is formed mostly of low rocky cliffs of between 10 and 20 meters in height generally, looking south-westerly and a general orientation fairly rectilinear for its west half, from the tip of Kerhern to the west to that from Beg Moc’h to the east; the eastern half of the Atlantic coastline of the town is more carved and sinuous due to the presence, in addition to the two aforementioned rias of Brigneau and Merrien, of several small apses such as the anse du Poulguen, porz Bali, Porz Chinec, Porz Teg, Porz Lamal, which, as their name implies, had to serve in the past as natural hasps, of stranding ports. There are two large beaches, Kerfany-les-Pins, between the pointe de Minbriz and the pointe de Kerhern, facing port Manec’h, and Trénez, as well as three ports, the port of Belon, on the river of the same name, the port of Brigneau and the port of Merrien. Near Trénez, the Île Percée island, accessible by a sand road at low tide, is also part of Moëlan-sur-Mer.

The entrance dike of the port of Brigneau was built in 1890. The small port of Merrien is topped by a stone construction called the House of Customs Officers. Its Marina has a capacity to host 160 boats on pontoons and six places for visitors. The writer Jean Merrien chose this pen name by attachment to this little port.

The oyster aquaculture activity begins in the Belon estuary (I am indeed in heaven) in the mid-19C, then, the Sieur du Balay installs its first oyster park in 1857, the Solminihac family began this activity in 1864, the Cadoret family in 1872. In about twenty years, the ria du Bélon metamorphosed with the creation of many oyster parks in place of the previous mudflats. Around 1900, the reputation of the Belon, a flat oyster, is already great. Two establishments ostréicoles located on its shores: the establishments Kermagoret, since 1960, and the establishments Morvan, since 1973.

Kerfany-les-Pins is a beach exposed to the west, framed by two wooded cliffs of pine umbrellas. This seaside resort faces port Manec-h, located on the right bank of the estuary common to the rias of Aven and Belon.

The parish Church of Saint-Melaine, built in 1876-1878 on the site of a former oratory destroyed in the 9C, and of an ancient churches restored in 1599. See my previous post on the Church in my blog here: https://paris1972-versailles2003.com/2019/04/07/moelan-sur-mer-and-st-melaine/

More photos of today on the inside here

moelan sur mer

moelan sur mer

Some further webpages to help you plan your trip here are

City of Moelan sur Mer on heritage

Tourist office of Quimperle Terre Oceane on Moelan sur Mer

All along you need a car but its worth it. Beautiful coastal towns full of sea life and the bounties from it are endless here. Just love it: again indeed lucky to be here, and you are welcome to come and let me know ok. Moëlan Sur Mer is another dandy in the Finistére.

And remember, happy travels , good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

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