Archive for April 26th, 2019

April 26, 2019

Le Port at Vannes!

We come by here always, we eat here , enjoy it here ,ride boats here, and do shopping galore on many items yet I have only mentioned in bits and pieces in previous blog posts! It is time I pay my tribute to a wonderful part of Vannes, Morbihan and Brittany at least, this the Le Port, harbor marina, grand living, la vie est belle!!! This will be follow up by a series of posts on Vannes, lovely quant historical medieval Vannes! Stay tune!

Where can I start! well not into the creative mind I will just tell you a bit of the history and what is around it and photos of course. Just to remind you, if you are in Vannes you need to be here. And to some of my lucky friends who have already visited, you know it!

The port of Vannes is a commercial port, a passenger port and a Marina located north of the Gulf of Morbihan along a 1 200 meters  on a south-north  channel that leads the boats from the commercial port of Pont-Vert to the afloat basin , at the foot of the Porte Saint-Vincent, entrance gate of the old town of Vannes. The port is a lively area of the town of Vannes.

A bit of history I like

The first traces of the existence of a port in Vannes date back to the Roman occupation of the city of Venetes then known as Darioritum. The research carried out on Darioritum shows that the port was the heart of the urban and commercial growth of the 1C to 5C .Until the end of the 14C, no document known to date allows to specify the actual configuration of the port. From 1604, a new wharf is built on the right bank. The Porte Saint-Vincent and the double-antenna bridge which served it  are completed around 1625 facilitating the passage from one side to the other south of the ramparts. At the time of the exile of the Parliament of Brittany in Vannes ,1675-1689,  a hunting lock is fitted upstream of the Calmont gate to clean the moat of the garbage and wastes that accumulate there and weaken the current of the river. A second lock, known as Kérino, is mentioned in 1683, much further downstream.

In 1697, the left bank of the port saw the realization of its first wharf, the pier Billy, the name of its owner. In 1754, recurrent problems of pollution and siltation forced the city to incur considerable costs for the construction of a new hunting lock in front of the Saint-Vincent bridge, and the development of new docks to the south in order to facilitate the docking of boats. At the end of the 18C, king Louis XVI wanted to take out the cities of the middle ages, the reorganization of the space by the filling of ditches. This project is accompanied by the desire to build a place in the form of a hemicycle. It is only in 1835 that the place Gambetta (old place du Morbihan)  is carried out. the project of requalification of the left bank between 1995 and 2001 is continued by the operation of raving and restoration of 45 facades located around place Gambetta, rue du port and Rue du Drézen.  Finally, in 2003 , in order to give a more important place to pedestrians and to create new service establishments it was done the landscaping of the spaces: realization of a parking under the paved esplanade of granite and the driveway of wood decking, construction of the new harbormaster , the cultural kiosk and the Tourist office.

vannes

vannes

Popular with locals and visitors alike boaters and tourists thanks to its location in the heart of the city, the Marina is equipped with many facilities: harbormaster cultural kiosk, tourist office, green area  and underground parking le Port. The Port of Vannes webpage is here for more info:  https://www.passeportescales.com/fr/horaires-vannes

The current look of the port of Vannes and its neighborhood dates from the end of 2000. The second phase of the project which was started in 2011 took care of the  the upstream of the port of the Marina, such as the development of the commercial port and the maritime station on the right bank, the future of the buildings of the departmental Directorate of Territories and the Sea (ex DDE ) on the left bank and the construction of the Kerino tunnel at the port entrance. At the Directorate there is  now a café gallery showing works of arts related to the sea;nice.

The docks of the port of Commerce welcome the goods arriving in Vannes after crossing the Gulf of Morbihan. At the exit of the Marina, the Parc du Golfe (Gulf Park) is the starting point for passenger boat cruises of the outlying islands, and the Gare Maritime. Many passenger and cargo boat cruisers are here to take you out into the outlaying islands. The city of Vannes has a listing of these companies here: City of Vannes on passenger boat cruisers

vannes

The place Gambetta, of hemispherical plan, marks the end of the port of Vannes and puts it in contact with the historic center by the Porte Saint-Vincent. The place was created in 1835 in order to clean up a low zone corresponding to the old ditches of the city, in which the sewage accumulated. The Marle river then threw itself into the channel leading to the Gulf of Morbihan, between two mudflats. The construction of the houses of the place du Morbihan(current Pl Gambetta) was completed in 1843.  The square was restored in 1976, which gave rise to the destruction of the surviving arches of the old St. Vincent bridge. New road works, in 2005, brought to light a last ark still in condition. The free space is almost entirely used by the terraces of cafes and restaurants. Very nice indeed!!!

vannes

vannes

Located on the right bank of the port, the Promenade de la Rabine walkway is made up of a long alley of trees stretching about 800 meters between the Esplanade of the Port to the north and the docks of the commercial port to the south. The construction of a wharf and the destruction of the Saint-Julien Chapel in 1740 allowed the widening of the rows of trees in front of the convent of Carmelites barefooted in 1745. As the docks expanded southwards, the Promenade de la Rabine was extended. In 1887, the extension of the promenade beyond the Santière, to the Pont-Vert. More info here: Tourist office of the Gulf of Morbihan on the Port of Vannes

The Marina has a capacity to host 280 boats on pontoons. It can accommodate 34 boats on dead body. The port of Vannes has a visitor area for your stopovers with 60 places available. More on the Marina here: boaters site on the marina of Vannes

And more from the city of Vannes: City of Vannes on the Marina

vannes

vannes

Furthermore, access to the port is also constrained by the crossing of the Kerino bridge built on the channel, downstream of the lock gate.. The lock gate is opened 10 minutes before the first maneuvers of the bridge and closed 10 minutes after the last maneuver, this in the same opening range since September 2016, the bridge remains (daytime) open 2 hours before and 2 hours after high tide. More on the bridge here: City of Vannes on Kerino bridge

vannes

There is now a wonderful underground tunnel just super! The Kerino tunnel or Kerino underpass is an underwater road, cyclist and pedestrian tunnel. This work of art, destined to cross the Marle river, is located at the mouth of the channel linking the Marina to the Gulf of Morbihan. It is intended to streamline road traffic between the two shores of the Marle to the south and to relieve the place Gambetta located at the north end of the channel, junction between the Marina and the historic center. The tunnel is dug a few meters downstream of the current bridge. It has a length of 250 meters and has two passages separated by a bulkhead, one for the car traffic in both directions, the other for a bike path and sidewalk.

vannes

Some further webpages to help you plan your visit here are

Tourist office of Morbihan dept 56 on Vannes

Tourist office of Brittany on Vannes

And a site on sea levels that change every day so check if coming by boat or surfing etc. The Tides of the Gulf of Morbihan and Vannes

There you go something nice around boats, history, architecture, the sea what else do you want… Enjoy le Port of Vannes.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

April 26, 2019

Wines of my belle France!

So here I am in one of my all time best hobbies, wines! Once in a while I dwell into the world of wines in my posts; its a habit to be away from old stones sometimes ! One of the pleasures of mankind , and much abuse these days of zero tolerance for some, it is still the motor that moves our civilization. Therefore, let me tell you a bit on things about wine happenings in my belle France!

You need to keep up with the weather to know who is doing what, and then choose the best known producers from it to maximize your pleasure of drinking these bottles later. As we deal with nature, and know it best, weather is key factor 1.

Since the beginning of April, French vineyards have been experiencing frost episodes, especially Bordeaux, Burgundy and Beaujolais, with consequences that are still difficult to measure but seem less dramatic than two years ago. In the Bordeaux region, the cold shot struck for two consecutive nights. Overall 5%  of the vineyard  was touched. In Burgundy, Chablis was hardest hit by this frost dry, with wind. If it is too early to evaluate all the damage, the Chardonnay looks like it lost against the Gamay, no matter what happens. In the Beaujolais, making it both violent and early. The most affected areas are in the lowland and lower slopes (less than 200 meters above sea level), especially the appellations Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages (towards Belleville, Saint-Georges de Reneins and the Valley of the Azergues).

How about that huge space we call Languedoc, its really a country of wines and coming on strong with its Rosés to the detriment of sweeter white wines.

In 2018, the immense vineyard of Languedoc, which stretches from Nîmes to the Spanish border, descending from the foothills of the Massif Central to those of the Pyrenees, produced nearly 2.5 million hectolitres of rosé wines, a 25% leap in two years. In the Languedoc, the wine was long before red table wines. It became more and more rosé and festive, under the influence of a global trend drawn by Provence, which could give the winegrowers the comfort to manage their agro-ecological turn. Rosé now represents 16% of the region’s production, compared to 10% 10 years ago. The Languedoc is by far the first producer in France with some 30% of the total. In the region, the success of rosés, are not the same for organic wines and  niches such as the terraces of Larzac, the Livinière or the Pic-Saint-Loup also masks the problems encountered by the Muscats, sweet wines (Rivesaltes, Banyuls, Lumel, Frontignan…) less in fashion, when they lost  20% volume in 10 years. The Rosés are it.

And Burgundy is fighting it on! The UK and US markets are crucial, whereas between 2014 and 2018, Burgundy wine sales in the European Union declined from 41 to 38 million bottles. The Burgundian winegrowers, who sell one bottle out of two abroad for revenues flirting with the billion euros, see with concern the protectionist threats of US President Donald Trump and the even delayed specter of the exit of Great Britain from the EU. They remain substantial, with almost half of the volumes exported. Canada has become a benchmark market. The province of Quebec is the most interesting because it is the fifth export market for Burgundy. South Korea , a small rich country that could look like Japan in a few years shows potential. In the longer term, India and its billion inhabitants where free trade would go pretty well, or China market, more complicated at administrative level and where tariffs are higher. All seek the international markets for volume and profits. Expansion and marketing are in order here.

Some prices in France for you to compare these are primeurs prices or before the harvest ok. The prices are all H.T (hors taxe) meaning before TVA sales taxes. And of course, my favorite bottles only, a sample.

CHÂTEAU D’ARMAILHAC  Pauillac, 5th Cru Classé  2010 : 41 euros – 2011 : 42,20 euros – 2012 : 30 euros – 2013 : 26,80 euros – 2014 : 28 euros – 2015 : 33,90 euros – 2016 : 38,10 euros – 2017 : 36,70 €

CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON  Pauillac, 5th Cru Classé  2010 : 60 euros – 2011 : 50,70 euros – 2012 : 37 euros – 2013 : 35,3 euros – 2014 : 40 euros – 2015 : 50,80 euros – 2016 : 59,50 euros – 2017 : 59,30 €

CHÂTEAU DUHART-MILON  Pauillac,  4th Cru classé  2010 : 130 euros – 2011 : 82,50 euros – 2012 : 59,9 euros – 2013 : 55 euros – 2014 : 48 euros – 2015 : 55,20 euros – 2016 : 63,50 euros – 2017 : 55,20 €

CHÂTEAU MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD Pauillac, 1st Cru Classé  2010 : 1 000 euros – 2011 : 478,40 euros – 2012 : 282 euros – 2013 : 250 euros – 2014 : 282 euros – 2015 : 450 euros – 2016 : 495 euros – 2017 : 410 €

Second wine of  Château Mouton-Rothschild,  LE PETIT MOUTON DE MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD 2012 : 78 euros – 2013 : 78 euros – 2014 : 92 euros – 2015 : 120 euros – 2016 : 155 euros

White wine of Château Mouton-Rothschild   AILE D’ARGENT DE MOUTON ROTHSCHILD Bordeaux Prix : 56,50 euros – 2015 : 60 euros – 2017 : 64 €

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET  Pauillac, 5th Cru Classé 2010 : 145 euros – 2011 : 90,80 euros – 2012 : 67,40 euros – 2013 : 67,40 euros – 2014 : 75 euros – 2015 : 85 euros – 2016 : 129,60 euros – 2017 : 96 €

My near and beloved vineyards of the Loire, between Tours and Saumur, the vineyards of Bourgueil and Chinon face each other and offer a tasty stopover in the Loire and Vienne river basins. Touraine undoubtedly has its grand visitor centers of Ussé, Rivau, Chinon, Azay-le-Rideau, Langeais or Villandry. It is starting from Tours, which deserves its own respects. It is Villandry, Langeais, then Saint-Patrice and Ingrandes-de-Touraine that we must rally then, to the extreme east of the vineyard of Bourgueil. At Ingrandes, take the road D35 for about 1, 7 km and turn right towards the Peu Muleau. Continue on the small paved road under the forest, at the top of the hillside. The view is splendid !. It is good to step in the heart of the most beautiful terroir of the appellation Bourgueil, (yes indeed)  in Benais,  then Restigné (Domaine de la Chivalerie), Bourgueil (Domaine de La Butte), then Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil (stop at Frédéric Mabileau and Yannick Amirault), in the heart of wine-growing villages with charm still intact. You can then return to Bourgueil before crossing the Loire and spinning westward to Candes-Saint-Martin via the road  D7. The landscape is of serene beauty in Candes and Montsoreau, not far from the confluence of the Vienne and the Loire rivers

And of course, it begins to be feld. In New York, there is a real approach of liquor stores  and restaurateurs to go to the discovery of unknown things; they are the ones who also make the trends and its benefitting  the Loire. In ten years, exports of white Loire wines in the US market doubled, leaping from 42 000 to 86 000 hectoliters, or 11.4 million bottles sold last year, according to the figures of the professional body InterLoire. And the value tripled to reach 67 million euros of turnover in 2018, synonymous with a rise in range. The Sancerre caracole in the lead, in front of the wines based on Sauvignon or Chenin, emblematic grape of the Loire Valley (includes region of Centre-Val de Loire and Pays de la Loire), not forgetting the Muscadet. The big export is increasingly seen as a real outlet by the winegrowers of the Loire who see, like all the French wine-growing actors, the downturn of the internal market on one side and the consumer boom in the United States, world leader, on the other. The French system of appellations is really interesting because we do not sell a grape variety, we sell a history, a landscape, a culture. Yes indeed, and I have put some winegrowers there in touch with my old reliable sources in the US!

The 4 architectural cellars to visit in France! Some of the newer trend of wine tasting, history ,and architecture on all in one for the visitors appeals. Some of the trendy ones in my opinion are:

Chateau La Dominique ,the winery of this Château from Saint-Emilion was redone in 2013 and appealed to the services of Jean Nouvel.

Château Romanin , heading for Provence to discover the Château Romanin. The estate of 58 hectares (42 in wine production, 4 olive groves and 2 almond trees) reveals itself to you between Saint-Rémy-de Provence and Eygalieres.

Château Cheval Blanc, in 2011, Christian de Portzamparc built the winery of the mythical Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Emilion. The winery of the vineyard of Bernard Arnaud is then completely redesigned and made of concrete.

Chai logistique Ballande et Méneret ,located in the heart of Bordeaux between the Le cite du vin (city of wine) and the Musée du Vin et du Négoce (wine and trade museum) , this  winery has been noted in the city. With UFO tunes with its rectangular shape almost too perfect, this block of concrete transforms the night by brighten orange dots, sensations guaranteed.  Inside, these are not less than 4 million bottles that are stored in the 10 000 square meters available.  The must is to go around this building at nightfall, in the pine forest that surrounds it.

And a sentimental favorite with historical wines of my beloved Paris. Montmartre is another world indeed!

The vineyard of Montmartre is most certainly the most famous vineyard in Paris. Its existence is attested from the Gallo-Roman era, but it is in the Middle Ages that the wine-growing activity of the Butte will develop. At the time, the Mount of Martyrs (Montmartre) was quite different from today’s. On the Hill (Butte), the scenery was rather bucolic. There were mainly fields, vines and some mills.  In 1133-1134, King Louis VII founded the Royal Abbey of the Dames de Montmartre, at the top of the Hill (Butte), for his mother Adelaide of Savoy. In 1147 the construction ends. It is Eugene III, Saint Bernard of Clairvaux and the Abbot of Cluny who dedicate the land and they plant the first vineyard of the Abbey.

Winemakers start cultivating their own vines and offer cheap wines such as “Le Clos Berthaud”, “La Goutte d’Or”, “Le Sacalie”, “La Sauvageonne” ,and later the “Le Picolo” . The wine of Montmartre is even known for its diuretic qualities. The setting up of the General Farmers  (fermiers généraux) wall around Paris in 1785 will greatly expand the Butte. To avoid paying taxes on wine, Parisians will drink it in Montmartre. Guinguettes (riverside cafes) and cabarets develop on the Butte in the image of the Moulin de La Galette, the Moulin Rouge or the Trianon. The Butte has become a festive and artistic place where wine flows.  In the middle of the 19C, the vineyards declined with urbanization and the development of the quarry exploitation of the Butte. The competition of wines from sunny regions and the arrival of phylloxera will mark a stop at the vineyards of Montmartre. In 1928, the vines disappeared completely.

But in 1930, the inhabitants of Montmartre led by the cartoonist Francisque Poulbot, mobilized against the construction of buildings on the vacant lot of 12 rue Cortot, which formerly housed the house and the garden of the writer Aristide Bruant. They transform the vague terrain into liberty square (square de la liberté) and they plant a tiny vineyard there. Three years later, three thousand thomery plants and three Morgon vines as well.  Today, the Clos-Montmartre is the smallest vineyard in France! It represents two thousand vines and twenty-seven different grape varieties, which produce approximately 1800 bottles of Clos-Montmartre each year. The bottles are sold at auction and the profits are donated to the social works of the City/Town Hall of Paris. An event each year not to miss, the Vendages! 86th edition coming up October 9-13, 2019! More here: Official Fêtes des Vendages de Montmartre

There you go another magical thing to do in my belle France, drink the best wines in the world. Often, imitated but never overall surpassed!  Enjoy them en vino veritas!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

 

 

April 26, 2019

Port Haliguen in the Quiberon peninsula!

I am re blogging this post my way , it is from July 2017 but merits more showing. In this time of the year the place is pack with visitors and locals alike and the weather is great of course.  What I am talking about, well it’s Quiberon, the peninsula south of me, my backyard. And more specifically Port Haliguen; which not had written much about yet.

quiberon

There is a nice lighthouse done in 1856 and the marina was done from 1968; it is now on its way to be improve and enlarge from its current 1200 moorings. The governing body is on a plan right now such as a large renovation project at Port Haliguen is now underway. It involves: The large-scale dredging of the west dock (Bassin de Castero), which will be followed by the east basin (Bassin du Porigo).The complete re-planning of the quays, pontoons and commercial premises.The creation of a lively centre around the basin. This will improve the services for boat owners, develop the port and strengthen its identity. A sensible extension of the number of moorings. and you can read more on it here in English as well : http://www.quiberon-port-haliguen.com/en/

There are beaches in between very nice, the wild and secluded plage de Castéro  and Kermorvan to the left facing the harbor and plage de Porigo to the right all the way to the plage du Fort Neuf.  Several fishing, boating, beach shops have opened up here as well as créperies, restos and bistro à vins.

More info on the above ,and on my favorite beaches here of Castero and Porigo on the Plages TV website here:

https://en.plages.tv/detail/castero-beach-quiberon-56170

https://en.plages.tv/detail/porigo-beach-quiberon-56170

quiberon

quiberon

You can, also, see the expositions in the Maison du Phare a sort of events place for the area.More info here:  http://en.quiberon.com/activities/boating-and-sports/2251486-la-maison-du-phare

quiberon

You find all kinds of boats here from cruisers to dingy zodiac types, from motor to sails, combine, and catamarans. It is really a gorgeous spot to be in. We parked behind the Port Haliguen hotel right facing the harbor on a side street for free! Plenty of this type of parking if you come early.

quiberon

quiberon

The lighthouses are always a pretty sight, and the bigger one from 1856 or phare de Port Haliguen can be seen for 10 miles with a height of 12 meters and no more in operation. Two smaller red phares or lighthouses are on the causeway out to see; the one on the left has 11 miles vision at 8 meters high; the one on the right has 8 miles vision of a high of 7 meters. On the north dam, there is another lighthouse,this one green with a vision of 6 miles and  9 meters high.

quiberon

Then, there is the Maison du Port or house of the harbor where the Yacht Club de Quiberon is house with a full program and plenty of boats in its yard. If interested, more info here in French:  http://www.ycquiberon.com/index.html

quiberon

Then, you have the Capitainerie or harbormaster in Port Haliguen, VHF Chanel 9. Contact on right hand column of this webpage:  https://www.passeportescales.com/en/port-haliguen-quiberon

Quiberon

Oh yes if you are looking to stay close to the action than by all means consider the Port Haliguen Hotel right across from the harbor! And good free parking behind it too! More here:  https://www.hotel-port-haliguen.com/fr/accb5/

Quiberon

You have a nice train station where you can walk to the Grande Plage and all the rest is not far, we parked and walk all over… the train station only in summers a special service from Auray on the Tire-Bouchon service or screwpull train. You can, also, come on TIM bus line 1 from the Auray train station here. More on it here:  https://www.ter.sncf.com/bretagne/loisirs/lignes-touristiques/tire-bouchon

The TIM bus line 1 has two schedules summer and rest of the year. So you find it here: https://www.breizhgo.bzh/se-deplacer-en-bretagne/se-deplacer-en-car/morbihan

quiberon

There is plenty of shopping in town and of course a supermarket for groceries and sundries items, we have visited the Casino supermarket lately and it is very good for a tourist beach town. More and for updates here:  https://magasins.supercasino.fr/supermarche/quiberon/CS282

quiberon

Driving out of town it is great to do so on rue du Port Haliguen where the Casino (betting) is on, and you past just in front of the Church of Notre Dame de Locmaria in city center.  You ,also, drive on the causeway in and out, one road two lanes in and out, and past the historic Fort of Penthievre, still a military installation but a site of firing squads assassination during the Nazi occupation. I have written on these several times before.

quiberon

quiberon

 

Another dandy spot in my beautiful Quiberon peninsula, Port Haliguen is kind of secluded nice and great for the whole family. Enjoy it

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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