Archive for April, 2019

April 30, 2019

Hôtel de Limur at Vannes!

Another of the pretty sights we have in our capital city of Vannes, Morbihan dept 56 of Brittany in my belle France. Needless to tell you about me and Vannes, many posts on it and work here, but there are things only written in the general sense and I believe needs more exposure and tell of the richness of the city of Vannes.

Therefore, let me tell you a bit more on the Hôtel de Limur, hotel in the French sense ! It can call a mansion…The unique thing for me is that this time I have never been inside of it, as not have the time to see an exhibition there now its use.

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The Hotel de Limur is at 31 Rue Thiers not far from mayor’s office or Hôtel de Ville of Vannes and was built in th 17C for Raymond Le Doulx, Canon of the Cathedral of Vannes. At the time of the French revolution, it was seized from Marie-Joseph-Armand de Gouvello, who had left on emigration. Mr. de Gouvello was then a Colonel in the Royal Grenadier Regiment of Brittany.And in 1795, the military Commission responsible for judging the prisoners of Quiberon sat there.

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The Hotel subsequently became the property of Mayor François Mahé de Villeneuve, and then of the Receiver General Joseph-François Danet. Elder Danet was, during the revolutionary period, Chairman of the Directory of the Morbihan, then elected in 1799, Member of the Council of elders; he was then admitted by the Senate to the legislature. Appointed Receiver General of Morbihan during the reorganization of 1800 was he who created our current financial administrations, he resigned his duties in 1810, and his son Joseph-François was appointed by the Emperor in his replacement on August 6, 1811, purchased from Mahé-Villeneuve in 1819 from the Gouvello family, the Hotel de Penhouët, which Mr. Chanu de Limur, a former naval officer  renamed, Hôtel de Limur. It eventually became, between 1820 and 1947, the property of the family of Limur, who gave it the current name. The latter sold it in 1947 to the city of Vannes. From 1955 to 1968, the Hotel de Limur welcomes the Museum of fine arts. It is now use for Arts exhibitions on a temporary basis by the city.

A bit on the construction of the Hôtel de Limur:

This pretty and cold architecture, without a great sense of artistic mind, without ornamentation, is characteristic of the Louis XIV style, which aimed primarily at giving an impression of greatness. It has three floors and a French garden in the back; inside it has a grand white marble stairs style Louis XIII built by 1685 .These are, with extensive facades and pierced by many windows, horizontal and clear lines, which soberly specify the proportions and that only a stone ledge or a common strip between two floors are covered. Inside the Hôtel de Limur, the lower rooms, with their vaults of a skillful and variable path; the beautiful staircase, with its pillars and light arches boldly rising to the ridge of the building; the happy disposition of the apartments; their ample and harmonious proportions; and many other construction details attest to the science of the architect who establishes the plans, as well as the contractor who ensured the execution. Many think that because Mr Gouvello family having lived at Bordeaux and Versailles had an idea of a building like this here.

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The Hôtel de Limur land is located at the tip of a triangular square placed at the foot of the wall, it offers a layout, probably due to the geometry of this parcel, which does not reflect the traditional structure of a hotel between courtyard and garden. It seems inspired by a local model, as well as the composition of the façade, with its central body dominating the ensemble, in which two overlapping skylights open. The staircase is from the end of the 18C or the beginning of the 19C. The architecture of the façade today feels the changes that were made to it in the 19C ,enlargement of the bays, as well as the interior decorations: only two rooms have preserved their authenticity.

City of Vannes on the Hotel de LImur

Tourist office of the Gulf of Morbihan on exhibtions at Hotel de Limur

Just another gem seen walking rue Thiers from the Hôtel de Ville or city/town hall to the le Port harbor marina glorious walk. easy and nice. Enjoy the Hôtel de Limur in Vannes!

And remember, happyt travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

 

April 30, 2019

Hôtel de Francheville or Myner at Vannes!

Moving right alone to showcase the beauty and independance mood of the people of Brittany with its unique history in France, and my lovely intact capital city of Vannes; let me give you some off the beaten path thing to see.

With so much to see it becomes almost impossible to see it all in one visit to any place, I am lucky to live in the worlds vacation hotspot and most visited country for a good reason. However as an amateur of history and architecture I do notice! And living here helps and living in the beautiful medieval intact city of Vannes (no fires, floodings, bombings here!) gives me a great advantage. One of the building I go by every week and my favorite old town shopping area and the site of the famous Vannes market is one with a bit of a confused history.

For years, it was call Hotel de Francheville until recent studies have shown it should be Hotel Myner, never mind , the archeologist, the locals still refer to it as Francheville! Let me tell you a bit more on it ,and hope you enjoy it.

The Hotel Mynier ,formerly Hotel de Francheville from the 17C is a private hotel located in Vannes, in the Dept 56 of Morbihan. It makes the corner of the place des Lices and the place de Poids Public.

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A bit of history I like

It was previously considered to have been built for the family of Francheville, who gave it their name for many years. However, recent finding has shown that one everyone calls the Hotel Francheville should be called the Hotel Mynier. No, the most beautiful house of the place des Lices was not the home of Claude de Francheville,  seneschal (royal officer in charge of justice) of Vannes. The illustrious family also counts in the 17C, the blessed Catherine de Francheville, the origin of the construction of the Chapel of Saint-Yves (by the College(middle school) Jules Simon) and the Foundation of the Order of the Sisters of the Retreat. It was built in tufa and granite in the second half of the 17C this building owes its name to Julien Mynier a merchant. It dates back to the time when the Parliament of Brittany was exiled to Vannes, between 1675 and 1689 and is located on the site of an older building, probably with wood, of which some elements subsist such as on the ground floor (1st US), wall gutter water with an gavel arch bay on the ground floor and a chimney on the 1st floor (2nd US).

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Chapel Saint Yves in collége Jules Simon Vannes

Part of the current location that belongs according to the archives before 1662 to the Guydo families and at best was occupied in the middle ages by the House of Robert de Callac, Maître d’hôtel de la Duchesse of Brittany. The building is then composed of a large house in a wooden panel overlooking the Place du Poids Public opposite the mill of the so-called Lices with courtyard, gallery, and stable.The acquisition of the ensemble in 1665 by Julien Mynier, merchant, two works campaigns were done the façade place des Lices corresponding in the 17C, while the openings of the south façade place du Poids Public are taken up at the beginning of the 18C.

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A bit on the construction story I like

Built in coated rubble, the building is dependent on the existing elevation and offers on the façade 3 levels with elevated ground floor served by a double-flown porch in masonry, and on the south façade 4 levels, the first of which catches the slope of the site. The building is rectangular in its center but slightly shifted with a large stairwell, lined with a small courtyard covered today. The hotel develops a grid-lined façade with granite on the eastern façade, and limestone on the south façade headbands. The rectangular-shaped bays are paired in granite and topped on the square side of the granite tables. The dormers are adorned with semicircular white stone pitons; on the southern façade, they are covered with a circle-segment arch and alternately show triangular and curved pitons; presence of a cornice with white stone modillions. A limestone-edged, rounded corner, topped with an imperial roof topped with slates in tortoiseshell adorns the southeast corner of the hotel, offering a viewpoint on both places. The sample is based on three horns adorned with scallops. A staircase, with turns by day in framing, serves the floors. There is the existence of another secondary service staircase taking its departure on the half-story landing.

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Some webpages on Vannes to help your visit to the great city are

Area tourist office of Gulf of Morbihan on Vannes

Toursit office of Brittany on Vannes

There you go another gem to see and marvel in my pretty Vannes, the Hotel de Francheville , ooops Hotel Myner is something to admire for all lovers of architecture and history.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

April 29, 2019

Saint Vincent Ferrier at Vannes!

So much to see and do in my wonderful Vannes of my lovely Morbihan and beautiful Brittany. However, some things holds you and make you reflect even on the bounties of been able to enjoy what I see around me and appreciated. Then, it hits you a person , a men who come from my beloved Spain, and so revered here with the Bretons. I need to write a post on him.

Please bear with me as I write to you about Saint Vincent Ferrier , or Vicente Ferrer as known in Valencia , Spain!  Saint Vincent Ferrier spread the word of God to the Bretons from March 3 1418 to April 5 1419.

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Vincent Ferrier (Sp. Vicente Ferrer) was a priest of the Dominican order, born on 23 January 1350 near Valencia (Crown of Aragon) and died on 5 April 1419 in Vannes (Morbihan,Brittany), which remained famous for his public preaching. Some of his relics are revered at St. Peter’s Cathedral in Vannes. He is the patron saint of the Valencian Community in Spain.  Vincent is the fourth child of a man born of the Aragonese nobility, Guillem Ferrer, from Palamos and Constança Miquel. It was named after Saint Vincent of Zaragoza, the patron of his hometown, Valencia. In 1379, he was ordained a priest in Barcelona. Initially, he taught theology in Barcelona and then at the University of Lleida, where he obtained a doctorate in theology.

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Close to Pedro de Luna, then Cardinal and future Pope Benedict XIII, Vincent Ferrier first joined the papacy of Avignon, rejecting the legitimacy of  Roman Pope Urbain VI in his treatise de Moderno Ecclesiae Schismate. He later became a confessor of Benedict XIII, now antipope and emblematic figure of resistance in Rome. But for the sake of Union of the Church, he eventually resigned himself to abandoning the cause of Benedict to recognize the Roman Pope. His official waiver took place in 1416, at a time when the Council of Constance was working to end the Schism.  A tireless preacher and evangeliser of Europe for twenty years, from 1399 to his death, he travels to Spain, Italy, Switzerland, and even goes to Scotland. He is often accompanied by an impressive amount of disciples, to the point that he must essentially preach in large outdoor spaces in order to be heard from the crowd. We lend him the gift of languages, given his ability to communicate with so many different peoples.

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The Relics of Saint Vincent Ferrier at St Peter’s Cathedral of Vannes

He was successively a Professor of Philosophy, eighteen years old! Professor of Science, Professor of Theology. His authority was necessary. His lights were used in the throes trials of the application of Canon law and Civil law. His decisions had the force of law. Chapters and bishops, parish priests and religious, neighboring and rival cities referred to him as arbiter of their disputes. He travels sometimes on foot, sometimes on the back of mule. He goes from Avignon to Valencia, bids farewell to his homeland, travels all the provinces of Spain, crosses the Pyrenees to San Sebastian, visits all our Midi region, passes to Italy, evangelises Switzerland, the center of France, goes back to Belgium, returns to the Franche-Comté, tilts towards Bordeaux and finally heads to Brittany!

To appreciate the results obtained by Saint Vincent Ferrier during his 20 years of apostolate, we must know what Europe was in the 15C. Everywhere, war. The Turks were to settle definitively in the eastern provinces. It was the time of the great pity of the Kingdom of France. Three quarters of the territory were at the mercy of the English troops, who had accumulated in their passage the material ruins. The black plague had made incredible havoc.  In France, the very Christian country, the practices of paganism had been re-enacted. The sign of the Cross was ignored by many. There was still a lot of misery, but they did not always respond to a need for faith; they were often erected to ward off a bad spell at the crossroads of roads. God spoke so clearly through the lips of the preacher brother that one only recognized an attitude in front of him, that of the penitent who implores forgiveness.

One of the most difficult works that a missionary can encounter is the conversion of Jews and Muslims. Everyone knew their hatred of the Christian name. Their obstinacy is explained: on the first weighs the responsibility of the Deicide, and the paradise of Muhammad is too easy for the latter to decide to follow the hard path that leads to heaven. The Moorish Kings of Granada also wanted to hear the voice of the famous missionary. They picked him up. Saint Vincent went to their call.  It is to him that we owe the intense Christian vitality that distinguishes us even today. But do not believe that we were the only beneficiaries of his zeal. It is the whole of Europe that should come to its Tomb, for it owes its life. He tore it from paganism. Where his action was more particularly felt, in Spain, Italy, France, the storm raised by Luther came crashing powerless. Faith crumbled: under the fire of his inspired verb, she resumed the solidity of granite.

He is the Adviser of Pope Benedict XIII in the throes questions that the Schism is born. When Spain finally feels the need to get out of the political crisis that threatens its existence, it chooses nine delegates who will have to settle the succession to the throne. After a month of laborious studies, these men, the most illustrious of the Kingdom, doubted themselves. But as soon as master Vincent expressed his opinion, they rank as the one who is required.

And he came to Brittany ,finally!

Twice already the Duke Jean V of Brittany had prayed to Saint Vincent to come and evangelise his States. A final letter from the Duke, written at the beginning of November 1417, exposed the dismal situation of religion among the Breton populations. For the third time, Designated person by the duke Jean Bernier began his journey. He met with Vincent in Tours, in the last days of December, and was happy enough to triumph over all the resistance. On February 8, 1418, Saint Vincent arrives in Nantes. He stayed there for nearly two weeks, and went on to Vannes where the Duke was standing with his court. He preaches in Fégréac, La Roche-Bernard, Redon, Muzillac, Questembert, and on Friday, March 4, he is in Theix.

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The Apostle is at Theix on March 30th again. On the 31st of the evening, he travels to the Abbey of Prayers, near Muzillac. He arrives in Guérande on 8 April. He preached through the peninsula, and on 14 April he was found in Saint-Gildas-des-Bois, where after talking about perseverance in good works, he healed a demonic that was brought, solidly garrotted, to the parish church. He then went back to Rennes, and the capital of Brittany made him a triumphal reception. On April 20-22, he preached on Place St. Anne in front of a huge crowd. All the houses that began to populate this square opened their windows to the impatient listeners, and saw up their roofs to cover themselves with the most impatient. For about ten days he travelled around the area. Fougéres, Vitré, Montfort heard him. Then he returned to Rennes on 2 May 1418.

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The Apostle pursues his mission by the north coast of Brittany. The canonization trial mentions Quintin, Châtelaudren, Guingamp, La Roche-Derrien. It is certain that he visited Tréguier, Lannion, Morlaix, Saint-Pol de Léon. Lesneven kept a long time in a silver reliquary “the cap of Monsieur Saint Vincent Ferrier”. From Quimper,   Apostle Vincent headed east, passed through Concarneau, Quimperlé, Hennebont, then ascends inward and evangelized Guémené, Pontivy, La Chèze, La Trinité-Porhoët, Josselin, and Ploërmel. He went to Redon a second time, and went down again to Nantes.

In the early days of 1419, Saint Vincent slowly moved to Vannes, where his prodigious career was to be completed. Alas! Vannes was no longer to hear the voice that had awakened the souls of a deadly lethargy. The sick would no longer surrender in the Cour Dreulin, their foreheads would no longer bend under his blessing hand. The thaumaturgy Apostle, the soberer of material and moral life, slept without hope back in the miraculously furrow. On 25 March 1419, Saint Vincent was seized with a violent fever. Soon the Holy missionary entered into agony. He clasped his hands, looked up at the sky, held his crucifix one last time, and on Wednesday of the week of passion, 5th day of April, in the year 1419, the glorious confessor and friend of God, brother Vincent Ferrier, native of Valencia, religious of the order of Preachers Brothers, returned to God the spirit, in the city of Vannes, in the hotel of one of the bourgeois of the city. On Friday, April 7, the funeral, took place in great solemnity. The Tomb had been dug between the Choir and the high Altar on the north side, opposite the Pulpit. Saint Vincent had promised his good people of Brittany never to forget them. He kept his word beautifully, and his tomb was the living source from which bursts of dazzling wonders sprained. They are always there much at least in St Peter’s Cathedral, the relics that proved to our ancestors the incomparable power of Saint Vincent. Several centuries have passed. The time had only taken on our hearts where he threw oblivion. The dust of these bones kept his immortal power: we could test it, if we had faith.

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France is not forgotten his missions, it travels all the south before being called in Brittany in 1418 by Jean V, Duke of Brittany. He travelled practically all of Brittany from town to town for nearly two years and returned to Vannes, exhausted, where he died on 5 April 1419.   After the many miracles recorded on his tomb attributed to him, the Duke  Jean V of Brittany asked that the Dominican be canonized. Pope Calixte III proclaimed his canonization on 29 June 1455. The Pope designates the Breton prelate Alain de Coëtivy to lift the relics of the Tomb; the ceremony took place in Vannes on April 5, 1456. He’s celebrated on April 5th still. A nice story me think.

Some webpages to help you understand more the man, the city of Vannes, Brittany and Spain are

Official Saint Vincent Ferrier Vannes

Official St Peter’s Cathedral of Vannes on Saint Vincent Ferrier

It is still very much visited, every time I stop by the Cathedral the chapel is with many, and it is a nice story that helps the travelers on its journeys as he did. Saint Vincent Ferrier of Valencia ,Spain, Vicente Ferrer. Hope you have enjoy it.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

April 29, 2019

Saint Emilion of Vannes!!

Well not many know this , it still a small space in an old town of the Morbihan breton. If you are into wines ,and go beyond the simple tasting and drinking of it and into the history of the men and women who creates them, then you too will come to Vannes. This is my hommage to the story of Saint Emilion, that wonderful wine town of Bordeaux who started it all by a Breton monk from Vannes!!!

Saint Émilion was intendant of the Counts of Vannes, monk and hermit Breton. He is celebrated on 16 November and is the patron Saint of wine merchants and traders. Born in Vannes, the capital of the Broërec in Brittany, he was intendant of a count of Vannes whose name is unknown. According to a legend, he gives bread to the poor of the area of present day Vannes in hiding from his master. The count wanting to take him on the fact, stops him while he transports under his mantle the bread. He asks him to open his coat, but Émilion makes a miracle by transforming the breads into pieces of wood.

He became a monk in Saujon, near Royan. Forced to flee due to the influx of pilgrims as a result of his miracles, he settled in a solitary retreat in Combes, near what became Saint-Émilion, and died in 767. Nearby, a great Latin-speaking poet, Ausone,(in a great wine name now) had erected his villa in the 4C. Saint Emilion settled in a cliff where he dug a troglodyte Hermitage.

A metro station in Paris has its name ,cours Saint Émilion on line 14. Saint Émilion is the patron Saint of the parish of Loguivy-Plougras , Côtes-d’Armor, dept 22 of Brittany. A hamlet in the commune of Motreff, in the dept 29 of Finistère, Brittany is called Saint-Émilion.

And in his native city of Vannes it has, at 24 ,rue des Viérges, a statue of the famous hermit. Built and blessed in 1986. In 2009, a second granite statuette housed in a small monument was placed on 8, Avenue Saint-Emilion . This discreet reminder of a local Vannetais, which symbolizes first of all life, will offer the passing folks the opportunity of a small pause in a pleasant site. Indeed it is nice.

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A bit on his life, Saint Emilion

Emilion made the decision to go to Spain to visit Santiago de Compostela, and to withdraw himself unknown in this region to serve the Lord God alone. On his way, Emilion stopped in a monastery of Saintonge, region of Saintes. The Abbot of this Benedictine monastery, Martin, engaged Emilion to become a monk. Saint Emilion was named cellarer, i.e. steward of the monastery. The place of this Hermitage has now become the city of Saint Emilion. It was then only a forest just a short distance from the Dordogne. This beautiful  Dordogne river comes from the Massif Central, to the north east, and will extend to the west, 80 km farther, with the Garonne river this great estuary that is then the Gironde. Blessed waters of the best wines in the world!

On the edge of the forest there was a rocky escarpment and caves. Saint Emilion fixed his Hermitage, with an oratory, in one of these caves. But Holiness attracts, and once again Saint Emilion is being sought. Folks came to see him, ask questions, hear him, and sometimes convert. Among the converts, Saint Emilion then decided to propose to some to live with him in community to teach them, to train them and to support them in their good dispositions. The monastery of Saint Emilion was born.

This monastery of Saint Emilion known many hours and misfortunes over the centuries. The Sarrazins/moors damaged it; then it was taken over by monks from the Benedictine Abbey of Nanteuil near Poitiers. Then lay people seized it; they were brought to its doorsteps by Gosselin, Archbishop of Bordeaux, who set up regular Canons, followed by the religious Esterp. Finally this abbey was secularized by a bubble of Pope Clement V in 1309, and until the French revolution it remained collegial. With the end of the revolution it was in ruins. The Monolith Church and its bell tower remain. The Church was dug into limestone rock, a massive so-called karstic stones. The steeple built above, with its 133 meters high is the highest of the steeples of the Bordelais region after that of the Church of Saint Michel of Bordeaux.

The wines of Saint Emilion are excellent, rightly famous. There are: Saint Emilion, Montagne Saint Emilion, Puissegain-Saint Emilion, Lussac-Saint Emilion, Pomerol, and Lalande de Pomerol. All from a hermit’s story from Vannes !

He has best on him from the tourist office of Saint Emilion. Tourist office of Saint Emilion on history

Ok so en vino veritas and enjoy the wines of Saint Emilion. However, if you want to see him do come by his native city of Vannes. He is a popular statue here for many visitors.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

April 29, 2019

La Cohue at Vannes!

Ok so lets stay in Vannes why not the small capital city of the dept 56 Morbihan in Brittany in my belle France has a lot of punch; starting that its medieval old town center is intact with wooden houses from the 14C, no fires, bombings to report here all naturally beautiful. This is my continuing series on all Vannes, enjoy it as we do.

And even if I have touch on it briefly in other posts, again, I believe that I should tell you more about the Fine Arts Museum of Vannes, oh yes we call the La Cohue…!The Fine Arts Museum (beaux-arts) of Vannes known as  La Cohue is located at Place St Pierre (facing the Cathedral) and also a back entrance on lovely rue des Halles. The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Vannes or Museum of Fine Arts of Vannes or aka La Cohue was created in 1982, is one of the museums of the city of Vannes.

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A bit of history I like

Since the Middle Ages, La Cohue, a word of Breton origin  meaning Halles or market used in the middle ages to designate market places in cities, belongs to the Duke of Brittany. Its oldest part dates back to the 13C and the building was enlarged in the 14C and again in the 17C.

Located in the heart of the city facing the Cathedral of Saint-Pierre , the place has two uses: A  ground floor (1st US)  houses the rooms and many stalls; upstairs 1st or 2nd US, sits the Ducal Justice Palace, until 1796. From 1675, the Parliament of Brittany exiled to Vannes held meetings here. La Cohue, welcomes the States of Brittany ten times from 1431 to 1703.

La Cohue, which became the property of the city of Vannes in 1813, was transformed into a theater that was active until the 1950’s. The old building was restored from 1970, before collecting the collections of paintings and engravings from the city and presenting large exhibitions from 1982,its opening to the public.

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A bit of description of La Cohue Museum of Fine Arts of Vannes :

On the first floor (2nd US), you will see  today a collection of works representative of the abstraction of the 1950’s  to the present day. Also devoted to the presentation of the works of Geneviève Asse, a Breton painter of international renown, native of Vannes , which allows the visitor to discover the important donation made by the artist to the Museum. Since 2013, a permanent space is devoted to the work of this native artist of Vannes in the upper room of the Museum.  The permanent space also gives a beautiful space to the works of the late 19C and the beginning of the 20C.

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The main work that I saw were of Eugène Delacroix “ Christ on the Cross “also “Christ between the two thieves  or the Crucifixion “, 1835. And, Claude Monet “ Rain in Belle-Ile”. You will see as well a rich Breton panorama of romantic landscapes and contemporary compositions.  Other works includes, a collection of polychrome wooden sculptures from the 14C and 16C. Set of 18C goldsmiths ‘ pieces, furniture and decorative art objects. As well as 19-20C prints.

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Since 1982, the ground floor (1st US) of 700 m2 receives the works of temporary exhibitions the opportunity to explore the different facets of contemporary plastic creation. La Cohue ,  Museum of Fine Arts affirms an identity strongly rooted in contemporary artistic expression. For just over thirty years, temporary exhibitions have been an opportunity to explore the different facets of living plastic creation.More space is now reserved for temporary exhibitions including the permanent collections of modern and contemporary art of the Fine Arts Museum of Vannes, enriched by the important deposit of the Centre Georges-Pompidou-Musée National d’Art Moderne of Paris and several paintings of private collectors, offering visitors a rich panorama of the painting of the second half of the 20C. Nice indeed!

Some webpages to help you plan your visit here and it is nice are

City of Vannes on the La Cohue museum

Friends of the Museum practical information

There you go another nice gem in my backyard that I am sure will be a pleasure for all to see, and be surprise of the beauty of museums we have outside of Paris. The Fine Arts Museum (Beaux-Arts) or La Cohue is worth the detour.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

April 28, 2019

The museum of History and Archeology of Vannes!

Hi all, the time to speak about my beloved Vannes again. If you have read my blog you know I worked in the suburbs of the city for the last 8 years in a ruined castle from 1504 renovated! and modern office building now. The city has lots of offering and genuine architecture as it suffered no damage in the last two great wars in France. Wooden houses here go back to the 14C! originals!

However, in the all to see and do, there are things that are just a must to see. And darn me for not showing it before. Even did some bits on it never a post to this wonderful place; the Musée d’Histoire et Archeologie de Vannes or the Museum of History and Archeology in the wonderful Castle of Gaillard! The former hotel of the Parliament of Brittany or Château-Gaillard, is a former mansion located  at Rue Noé in  Vannes in the Morbihan dept 56. Built in the early 15C, Château-Gaillard has been hosting the city’s History and Archaeology Museum since 2000.

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The museum of History and Archeology (musée d’histoire et d’archéologie) is house in  the wonderful historical Chateau Gaillard from the 15C in stones while the rest of the town at the time was in wood. The original owner of the lot was a Gaillard Tournemine so there goes the name of the castle. In 1457 it was the auditorium of the Parliament of Brittany! and home of the President. The castle has four levels and all connected by a stair in stone. The street level room opens to the garden connecting  it with the Hôtel de Roscanvec ,and has two monumental chimneys. First floor (2nd US) has wooden decorations, and the 2nd floor (3rd US) has the library of the Societé Polymathique du Morbihan (SPM)  where it has installed the collections of its museum here in 1912. The SPM is the current owners and the management is handle by the city of Vannes.  Wonderful arts in a medieval setting.

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A bit of history I like

The Gaillard castle is built on land originally owned by the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Built in 1410 by Jean de Malestroit, Bishop of Saint-Brieuc between 1406 and 1419 and Nantes between 1419 and 1443, Chancellor of duke Jean V since 1408, this medieval mansion passes through the hands of Hervé de Malestroit, Jean de Mésanger and the canons of Nantes before being redeemed in 1457 by the Duke of Brittany. It is in this sovereign Court that the Duke’s vassals vote taxes. In 1485, duke François II entrusted the role of States in litigation to a Court of Justice, Parliament of Brittany. The Castle then serves as an audience in Parliament as well as a home to the President. The Castle will remain the seat of the administration of Parliament until 1535, three years after the signing of the Treaty of Union of Brittany to France, voted by the States of Brittany in 1532.  In 1912, the Société polymatique du Morbihan bought the Château-Gaillard and entrusted it to the city of Vannes in 2000 in order to create a Museum of History and Archaeology that allows the preservation and presentation to the public of its collections.

A bit of a description of the musée d’histoire et d’archéologie de Vannes!

The former hotel of the Parliament of Brittany consists of two houses with mullioned windows, served by a spiral staircase located in a polygonal stone tower. At the rear, another, narrower, screw staircase serves the various levels. This building is adorned with Renaissance paintings and woodworks and a coffered ceiling. The roof is supported by a hull boat frame.

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The Museum of History and Archaeology presents permanent collections of archaeology. The museum database lists 74 pieces classified as historical monuments in the Museum.

By visiting the Museum, you discover other architectural treasures. In the room of the apparat, the monumental chimney captures the gaze but it is also necessary to look up to admire the painted woodwork of the 15C. In the next room, one enters the bedroom to the decors of the 17C. And, after a spiral staircase in stone, one reaches the jewel: the room of the fathers of the desert. This 17C work room is decorated with 57 painted wood panels and nine canvases, on the theme of hermits and the life of Christ. From an anonymous author, the works are inspired by the engravings of the Sadeler brothers and compose a unique ensemble in Brittany.

Vannes

Vannes

The Société polymatique du Morbihan ( Morbihan polymatic society), a scholarly society created in 1826. These scholars were among the first in France to embark, around 1860, in a new science, developed in Egypt: Archaeology. Their museum thus contains unique pieces in the world, discovered especially in the major Neolithic sites of Morbihan such as in Carnac, Locmariaquer, Arzon, Gavrinis, but also Gallo-Roman remains discovered in Vannes. The curiosity of the polymers was limitless: nearly 40,000 pieces compose their collections. The city proposes, through 400 objects, a panorama of these treasures. Fossils, minerals, herbals, seashells, exotic birds, Oceania adorns, Carthaginian funeral urts or the last wolf of Vannes!  All wonderful for the visitor to enjoy, a must in Vannes!

Vannes

Vannes

Vannes

Some webpages to help you plan your visit here and it is a must are

City of Vannes on Museums in English

Tourist office of the Gulf of Morbihan on the Museum

Its a treasure to be seen, a must when visiting Vannes or nearby areas. it is our favorite museum here, and we go in in several occasions  and by it every week. The Chateau Gaillard is wonderful as it is and when you add the Museum of History and Archeology is a combination to come see now.

And remember, happy travels, good health ,and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

 

 

April 28, 2019

The Markets of Vannes!

Come to think of going shopping and to us , the word market comes to mind immediately. Sure modern life has its hypermarkets and such, but when it comes to food, edible kind the markets are still IT. In France, they have a centuries old tradition of excellence where you get the best culinary delights known to men in culinary champion France.

The markets in my adopted region of Brittany, and dept 56 of Morbihan are no different. In fact, they can play with any anytime and popular shows attest to their beauty and abundance as the last entry here will tell you. The markets of Vannes are tops.

Why markets in plural, well because at the same spot in the old town we have 3, yes 3! We have the flea market on the Place des Lices predominantly and the fruit and veggie covered market or marché couvert Halles des Lices right there and just off of the nearby Place du Poids Public in the Place de la Poissonnerie you have the Halle aux Poissons or fish market. So let me tell you briefly on them as the eyes are the best here.

Place des Lices and its adjacent streets lined with half-timbered houses in the heart of the historic center and a few meters from the ramparts and their gardens. It was on this site in the 14C arranged to coincide with the jousts and tournaments organized by the Dukes of Brittany whose residence was nearby.

On  Wednesday and Saturday mornings. the flea market of Vannes, full of fancy jewellery, new clothes and fripes, underwear, shoes, flowers, plants, but also food with fruits and vegetables, spices, cakes, cheese dairy, pizzas, etc. It is one of the first markets in Brittany which is accessed by the place Lucien-Laroche, but also by Rue Saint-Vincent and rue Le Hellec, opposite the post office. It is spread over the Place des Lices and the Place du Poids Public, that offer you all the fresh products you want: fish, delicatessen, caterer, dairy slag, cellar. From  8h to 13h

Vannes

vannes

vannes

Further to the port the Halle aux Poissons or fish market will delight all the freaks of crustaceans, oysters, fish and even smoked salmon stand. This market is held all year round on the following days: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday from 8h to 13h. Located in the place de la Poissonnerie. About twenty permanent traders in all. It is a wonderful building which we enjoy tremendously and shop profusionnally!

A bit of history I like:  In 1821, a first fish market,  back of the buildings on Rue Saint-Vincent, was built on the place de la Poissonnerie, a place for fish markets since the end of the middle ages. The Gulf fishermen wishing for a larger and more hygienic building, a new Hall is made in 1880 of 35 meters in length and 13 meters in width, it is built in granite. Inside, 18 cast iron poles, some of which are adorned with scallops, support a metal frame.

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vannes

vannes

The Halles des Lices or covered market are open every day from 8h30 to 13h30 except on Sundays and Mondays. During the summer season, they are open 7 days a week from 8h30  to 13h30 and on Friday afternoons from 16h to 19h30. Located on the place des Lices, allows you to fill your basket of good local products (vegetables, fruits, cheeses, meats…), but also offers a few dishes to eat in for lunch in the middle of stalls on a tasting area. Thirty traders welcome you all year

vannes

vannes

Finally , as in all excellence there has to be a competition to fine tune your qualities, and we take food seriously here. So the French TV chain TF1 guided by Jean-Pierre Pernaut started a contest voted on online for the most beautiful market of France back in 2018. The results were in and Vannes arrived in 10th position; not bad for a start as I think can go even higher. 10th most beautiful market in France is a complement indeed. The votes came in last June with over 3,8 million persons participating in the voting. The second season of the most beautiful market in France will return to TF1. Jean-Pierre Pernaut will  again present a special page dedicated to the winning market in his 13h TV news on June 10 2019. The voting is on, the site is here on Vannes of course! My most beautiful market of France

Some webpages to help you plan your visit to the markets of Vannes and you should are

City of Vannes on open air Markets

City of Vannes on the covered market

Really enjoy it , always a treat and very friendly merchants that we have come to know on a first name basis with the best of France and the world! Do not miss the markets of Vannes.

And remember, happy travels ,good health, and many cheers to all!!!

April 27, 2019

Hôtel de Ville of Vannes!

Well need to tell you more as I did with my other two city halls in Paris and Versailles, the one now mine at Vannes is almost a replica, confirm with that of Paris. This is something, again, have written in bits and pieces before but feel needs a post of its own.

Therefore, let me tell you a bit more of the Hôtel de Ville or City/Town Hall of Vannes!

Vannes

The City/Town Hall of Vannes is a part of the municipal services. The City/Town Hall, located on the Place Maurice Marchais, was built between 1880 and 1886. The other part of the municipal services of Vannes are located in the municipal administrative center on Rue Joseph Le Brix, just to your left as you come out of the old Hôtel de Ville.

vannes

The City/Town Hall of Vannes was built to replace an old city/town hall in poor condition and not reflecting the ambitions of a prefecture city. Located at the place des Lices, the old city/town hall was a typical Breton-style building. Rescued from destruction, the staircase of the old city/town hall was installed in the 1960’s  in the courtyard of the Hotel de Limur. (see my post on Limur)

In 1878, the Municipal Council of Vannes fixed the location of the City/Town Hall on the place Napoléon, present day place Maurice Marchais and former place du Marché. This building wanted by the Republicans after their victory over the Monarchists in 1878 was the triumph of Republican ideas.

The City/Town Hall is of Italian Renaissance style  and a copy, on the scale of Vannes, of the City/Town Hall of Paris(Hôtel de Ville).

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The main 4-story building is framed by 2 pavilions. On the main façade, the frontispiece is equipped with a clock and topped by the crest of the city. Reminiscent of the former belfry, the steeple located at 36 meters in height dominates the ensemble. The columns engaged in Corinthian capitals and pilasters punctuations the openings. On the side pavilions, the frontons of the windows are alternately triangular and curved. Republican cartridges and volutes still adoring this façade.

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A monumental flight of stairs guarded by 2 Lions in cast iron leads to the entrance where 4 busts welcome you with Lesage, Descartes, Thiers and Mirabeau. The Interior is the image of the outside. It includes statues and stained glass depicting the marriage of Anne of Brittany and Charles VIII in 1491 at the level of the magnificent staircase of honor.

More info on the city of Vannes page here: City of Vannes on the City Hall

Hope you enjoy the building, it can be visited and with a guide go into the details of it. The Hôtel de Ville of Vannes is on the rue Thiers on the edge of the old town where you can walk into the middle ages and beauty behold you!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

April 27, 2019

The Church of St Patern at Vannes!

Well back to my playground and the city I work for the last 8 years! I have of course several posts on its wonderful history architecture and beautiful monuments. However, done the  Cathedral but not the second best Church in town, and its about time.

Sure done bits and pieces in other posts but it deserves a post of its own. I will like to tell you a bit more of a wonderful neighborhood we love and the Church of Saint Patern of Vannes. Bien sûr in the Morbihan dept 56 of my lovely Brittany!

The Church of Saint-Patern, located in the district of the same name, is dedicated to Saint Patern, first Bishop of Vannes in the 5C. The Church is located at the corner of the rue de la Fontaine and Rue Saint-Patern. A very nice quant medieval part of Vannes  It replaces a former 10C chapel  that housed the relics of Saint Patern, the first Bishop of the bishopric of Vannes and one of the seven founding Saints of Brittany.

Vannes

The district takes its name from the Church of Saint-Patern located at its center. It is bounded by the streets of Lieutenant-Colonel Maury and Francis Decker to the West, the Boulevard de la Paix to the North and  rue St. Tropez  to the South and East. The current Quartier Saint-Patern is located on the slopes of the Hill of Boismoreau, which was the implantation of the ancient Darioritum, founded in the 1C B.C. As such, many Gallo-Roman vestiges were found there such as a Forum, the baths, the villas.etc.. The settlement of the district disappears from the 3C, when the Gallo-Romans took refuge behind walls on the Hill of Mené, during the troubled period of the fall of the Roman Empire.

the Church of Saint-Patern was destroyed in the 10C during the Norman invasions in Brittany. This first Church destroyed by the Normans was replaced in the 11C by a Romanesque church that saw in turn collapse in 1721 and the rest of the Church 5 years later. The Church is rebuilt in the next century and is an important pilgrimage stage throughout the middle ages. Saint Patern, first attested Bishop of the bishopric of Vannes, is one of the seven founding saints of Brittany. Its relics, preserved in Vannes, attract the crowds of the pilgrims of the Tro Breizh. The pilgrimage created homeric paginates in the city in the 14C. The clergy of Saint Patern and the canons of the Cathedral of Vannes argue for the right to present the relics, to receive the venerations, and thus the offerings.

Vannes

The faithful of the parish of Saint Patern defend their rights against the canons aided by sergeants of the Duke. The parishioners made the lookout and locked themselves in the Church upon the arrival of the canons ‘ supporters. The clergy, however, recommend the faithful to throw the offerings through the windows of the Church. The case is settled by the intervention of the clergy of Rome. In the 15C, the pilgrimage was partly abandoned after the passage and preaching of St. Vincent Ferrier, which made the Patron Saint a shadow figure.

The stained glass windows of 1737 in the choir were replaced in 1882 and then in 1918. The stained-glass window of the north gate, Christ surrounded by eight children is from 1923. There are 6 retables, including the altarpiece of the Sainte-Parenté or kinship in the north transept and Saint-Isadore in the south transept dating from the 18C. The altarpiece of the resurrection of Christ, at the bottom of the choir enlarged in 1925, dates from 1744. The pulpit to preach is 1813. The bell tower is a bit truncated at 50 meters and a lot of granite stone in construction of Gothic and Roman traces.

The current Church of Saint Patern was rebuilt as early as 1727. The large staircase, the granite bell tower and its lantern are started in 1769 but the arrow can only be completed in 1826. The French revolution confiscated the silverware of the Church, and in particular the Patron Saint  silver chief, and sold the property of the brotherhoods, chapels, and communities scattered throughout its territory. The Church was renovated between 1878 and 1886.

Vannes

From January 2007 to March 2008, the Church of Saint Patern experienced a complete restoration in the original Baroque style: roofing, framing and vaulting, plastering, sealing, electrical installations, strengthening of the Bell Tower, complete renovation of the paving with integration of a heated floor, re-arrangement of the choir with the laying of a set of choir stalls in carved solid oak dating from 1695.

Again from me , some webpages to help you plan your trip here and you must!

Official Church of St Patern of Vannes

City of Vannes on history and heritage

Tourist office of the Gulf of Morbihan on St Patern neighborhood

Tourist office of Brittany on Vannes

There you go  a nice tour of a very nice neighborhood and pretty Church of Saint Patern. History, architecture, and great shops and restos around it , just what you need to be here!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

April 27, 2019

Conleau Peninsula at Vannes!

So let’s stay around water and Vannes, my capital city. Another spot where I have written bits and pieces in my other blog posts but never one dedicated to it. This is another idylic spot down tuck in a corner of the Gulf of Morbihan, in the Conleau peninsula of Vannes!

Let me repost from an earlier post of 2014 to showcase this area to my new readers. Enjoy it.

Conleau is one of the neighborhoods of the city of Vannes. It includes the Conleau peninsula. The District of Conleau is located south of Kercado and Cliscouët districts. It comprises a built-up area, consisting of detached houses and some collective dwellings, as well as an unbuilt area, the pointe des Émigrés (emigrants point)  and the Parc du Golfe (Gulf park) , which includes the Chorus (exhibition congress center), Jardin aux Papillons(butterflies garden)  and the Aquarium of Vannes. It was built mainly during the 20C from two former hamlets named the Petit Conleau and the Grand Conleau, each composed of a Manor and farmhouses. One of these farms now houses the Maison de la Nature (nature house).

The Pointe des Emigrés was called in the 18C, Pointe Kérero. This protected green area of about 30 hectares (including 10 hectares of marshes), is located in the District of Conleau, along the Marle river . It culminates at 11 meters. With the shores of Vincin, a neighboring site located on the other side of the Conleau peninsula, it forms a protected set of 70 hectares. The Pointe des Emigrés  is criss-crossed by several footpaths totalling about 3 kilometers. A great spot for walkers and dog walkers like us!!

However, it has  a somber history for the Breton here and it is protected. In 1795, 748 Bretons, immigrant prisoners of the Quiberon expedition (invasion from England against the French revolution), were shot in Morbihan. The staff of the expedition is executed on 28 July in Vannes, on the site of the Garenne. 374 other Bretons are shot in the vicinity of the city, including part of the site of the Hermitage. In remembrance of this massacre, the place was symbolically renamed the point of the emigrants or pointe des emigrées.

The Conleau peninsula  is an ideal spot for families,barbecue, and just soak in the tranquil life away from the city and crowds.  We had family visitors from the Nord (France) ,but they are off to the Inter Celtique Festival in Lorient, (coming up again in Aug ’19) ,and we done that so we went to the Conleau for a relaxing moment of our own.

The Conleau peninsula is a former island of the Gulf of Morbihan, connected to the Mainland by a dike road from 1879. Of modest dimensions (about 500 meters in  lenght for an average width of 100 meters.

It lies at the confluence of the rivers Vincin andMarle, the two main streams of Vannes. The peninsula is separated from the town of Arradon by the Vincin river and the town  of Séné by the Marle river.

vannes

In 1878 the résidents decided to give a different look at the area so they created a seawater pool surrounded by cabins of bath , chalets , a restaurant, and a grand hotel  (now Best Western Le Roof). As early as 1879, adike-road connects the island to the mainland , promoting the development of the small seaside resort.

The colorful Guinguette créperie, no webpage but probably the best spot for eating in my opinion. Other good ones are the Corlazo  Café Allée du Dr-François-Salomon facing the pool and the Café de Conleau as well as restaurant le Roof in the Best Western hotel (le cafe is good too) provides all the eating/drinking you need. There are public bathroom and change rooms available.

Vannes

Le Roof Restaurant at Conleau

Café de Conleau inside the Best Western Hotel: Cafe de Conleau

Nice site I follow for years on beaches of France, here is the pool of sea water at Conleau , https://en.plages.tv/detail/conleau-swimming-pool-vannes-56000

Vannes

vannes

For the camping aficionado there is a great facility there; City of Vannes on Camping Conleau

And for family camping out in nice mobile homes there more info here: Flower Camping on Conleau camping

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There is a nice pines forest of Conleau. All along the shores of the Gulf of Morbihan and the banks of the Vincin river, this pinewood, composed of sea pines and secular oaks, gives this site a maritime atmosphere that offers shade and freshness to the many visitors. There is a sea-water pool, a beach and a children’s playground as above.

Vannes

vannes

More on the area tourist office here: Toursit office of the Gulf of Morbihan on Conleau basin

Its a wonderful spot to spent your weekend and relax while enjoying the wonderful natural beauty of the place and always on the lookout into the Gulf of Morbihan. The Conleau peninsula is a great way for us to escape and even take our dog Rex! he loves it!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

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