Classic wine of France and the world!

And I embarque again on the wonderful world of wines. I have written several posts on the subject, maybe not as much as I like;so no need to repeat on what has been my trail.

Needless, to say wine is part of my life since that frutiful day at age 8 my maternal grandmother gave me a sip of Spanish wines from then on, the fable story of them and me has continue. Prohibited to lunch or dine without wines in our home.

And what has become of me, well a fierce loyal customer of the Médoc of France. Been around, visit and tasted on site many of the world best known and some unknown wine areas, but after my mind takes me always to the Médoc. Oh yeah, many call it Bordeaux, but this is just a city, in which many varieties and areas can be call as such. My pinpoint concentration takes me to simply the Médoc.  Oh yes, need to tell you, the best in the world, the rest just tries to imitates. Now let me tell you about two properties that have been with me for many years, tasted, drank, purchase, and aged them some of my favorites of them all ,and I have already told you some others too in my blog.

Bruno-Eugène Borie evolves the Domaine Ducru-Beaucaillou at Saint Julien, Médoc. This is his story. ‘ It is a wine of gourmand, as can be the greatest crus of Bordeaux (Médoc), and gluttony is universal. Behind Ducru, the name of the owner in the 19C, and Beaucaillou, a reference to the thrusted rocks by the Gironde giving its specificity to the terroir, here is a beverage of character, full of aromas and flavors, which does not forget to remain light, aerial like a 1995(my first bottle of the property!) , excessively fresh, but very present, vibrant even, a rich, aromatic, fragrant cuvée that caused the American critics to succumb to it. Or the 2005, combining finesse and power, a lesson of balance derived from worthy grapes, it is said, of the most beautiful manuals of Ampélographie, these books dedicated to the study of the vine and often accompanied by superb illustrations. Or a 2009, a 2010, with your eyes closed. The 2011, with the garnet dress, with spicy and floral flavors, is not lacking in charm, and the 2012 is a sublime sweet. 2013, difficult year, shows solar and sympathetic, closer to an Italian sangiovese than a Bordeaux… The last harvest gave very nice cuvées. As such, 2018 is very promising.

The use of only new barrels while looking for the most neutral wood possible, which does not mark. Wood is not a stylistic factor in his domaines. They want a robust wine but not a carpenter. As a general rule, they do not want the new entrants to shape our cuvées. They seek precision, and want to find the purity of the original grape in the wine. For this, the selected grains do not support any disadvantaged. The matter must be impeccable. Hygiene helps to strive towards this, especially when one goes further and further in the extraction.

Mr Borie presides over the Executive Board of the company that manages the Pôle Saint-Julien of the family vineyards with Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Château Lalande-Borie, (this was my contact with the house, back in 1992! )also in Saint-Julien, and Château Ducluzeau, in Listrac.   Fifty pairs of hands follow each other on their bottles. Wine is an addition of manipulations, know-how, hours of sunshine. In the end, it is an accumulation of care and details that make a great cuvee. The place of the machines increased during the arrival of the harvest, in order to improve the sorting. So their yard lines are longer. Here, the most sophisticated technology to refine the work of the vine. They now have several weather stations. Tools allow them to know the thickness of the moisture layer on the sheets, and all this is viewable from a smartphone. They are also looking to use less significant products for the plant and the environment. This means that it is necessary to use treatments with a reduced lifespan-mainly sulphur and copper. A culture which is worth the property of an esteemed certification ISO 14001 high environmental value level 3!

Today they are too often in dogma. He would like to go towards more pragmatism and above all towards more benevolence. They must both have faith in man and believe in the genius of science. A form of positivism adapted to contemporary viticulture.

They have gone from about 16 000 cases of first cru wine per year (192 000 bottles) to 8 000 now. This corresponds to a general evolution of Bordeaux, to a process that they may have pushed a little further than others. He noted in passing that he is proud and fan of what he see today in their vineyard, where the owners are driven by the pleasure of doing well and protecting their environment, whatever some think.    Because Mr. Borie is one of those rare Médoc growers who live in their vineyards, summer and winter!. Inactivity does not seem to be problematic for the one who was a great international nomad. After having travelled a lot and enjoyed this, in the United States, he consider that we make good wine when you are in its vineyards, in the midst of its teams. Nobody harvest in an airport lounge. You have to agree to make yourself available to nature. Maybe at one time we thought the opposite.

Since 2005, the La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou, a former second wine of the property, constitutes a full-fledged Cru, while the Le Petit Caillou, born in 2007, now takes the place of second wine. It is concocted from the lots that were not retained for the other two cuvees.

They offer each year a collection of 21 different formats of Ducru-Beaucaillou, customisable. Good to see that 90% of the first wine is destined for export, and Asia accounts for about half of these volumes, with Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, Singapore and Macau on top. The Chinese love to banquet, drink and eat, celebrate the good bottles. The Americans are different, very tasters but perhaps less enjoyers. And those who take the time to take a break in Saint-Julien taste the cuvées in the best conditions. This is Ducru-Beaucaillou, go upper right hand side stripes menu to see more here: Official Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou

A century already that the Cordier family owns the Château Talbot. In the adjacent tasting room at the château, a long topped white table gathers a remarkable vintage of every decade for a hundred years: 1919, 1926, 1934, 1945, 1955, 1962, 1975, 1986, 1995, 2005 and the very young 2010. The silence welcomes the bottle of 1919. It is the minimum of respect that one owes to the elders. The wine should not be shaken by too many wrist turns; It must oxidize smoothly. The taster must understand their relationship to the air that wakes them smoothly.

The years 1926, 1934 and 1945 followed this first anniversary. Ah, 1945! As if the wine had kept in him the hot breath of the cannons, recalled by deep smoky notes, a minerality that draws on oil and which leaves room for a mouth still ample to the final peppery and ironstone. 1955 is very different, charming, the fruit is riper and dominates the spices by scents of strawberry filled with rose and sandalwood. The mouth is dense, sensual, held by an acid weft, spine of the wines of Château Talbot.

The vintage 1962 follows the 1975, very refined, with an Earth profile, pronounced aromas of pepper and a great dynamism. It is the one that performs best its final, of an astonishing length and elegance. The character of the 1986, (my first bottle of Château Talbot) ,the blood side of the 1996, the musculature of the 2005 and the finesse of the 2010, while juicy and spiced with a beautiful bite at the end of the mouth, are held.

If the production techniques used in the past century were very different from those which are today, the wines retain an air of family. The imprint of the terroir gives them a pronounced minerality, an invigorating acid weft, a flax grain and a peppery finale. Mr Désiré-Nicolas Cordier purchased the fourth Grand Cru Classé de Saint-Julien in 1918. In 1934, then mayor of the town, he organized the “Feast of longevity” in the presence of the President of the French Republic Albert Lebrun. If the longevity celebrated is that of the inhabitants, the diners drank with the centenary vintage 1834. Désiré Cordier, the man and his wife Nancy Bignon-Cordier are today the attentive guardians of Château Talbot, whom they gradually transmit to their three children; Philippine, Marguerite and Gustave, the fifth generation. The succession is assured. This is the Château Talbot : Official Château Talbot

And if these two powerhorses of the wine world and my world are not enough, we have more by Paris, capital of the world.

From February 11th to 13th , 2019, discover the first edition of Wine Paris, the first major international meeting of wine professionals to be held in Paris: World Wine Capital! Wine Paris was born from the union of Vinisud, the world of Southern wines, and VinoVision Paris, the International Exhibition of Northern Wines. Wine Paris will host from this first edition with more than 2000 exhibitors representatives the completeness of French terroirs and a variety of international vineyards.

These vineyards reps are

France: Alsace, Beaujolais, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne, Corsica, Jura, Languedoc, Provence, Roussillon, Savoie, South-West, Rhône Valley, and the Val de Loire.

Algeria: Oran.  Croatia: Slavonia, Continental Croatia, Istria, Dalmatia.

Spain: Andalusia, Aragon, Castile-La Mancha, Castile and Leon, Catalonia, Extremadura, Galicia, Murcia, Navarra, Basque Country, La Rioja, and the Valencian Community.

Greece: Elide, Achaea, Korinthia.  Italy: Veneto, Piemonte, Friuli, Lombardia, Trentino Alto Adige, Emilia Romagna, Liguria, Il Lazio, Abruzzo, Puglia, Sicilia, Sardegna, le Marche, Campania, Basilicata, Calabra, Molise, and Toscany.  Lebanon: Bekaa Valley.  Israel: Golan Heights.  Moldova: Codru. And  Portugal: Douro, Dao, Bairrada, Valpaços, Alentejo, Madeira, Minho, and Bucelas

All this as per above dates February 11-13 2019 ; at the  Parc des Expositions Porte de Versailles, 1 place de la porte de Versailles, Paris 15éme : Hours Monday and Tuesday 9h30 to 18h30 and Wednesday 9h30 to 17H30. Admission is 20€ reserving online or 40€ on site. More here on Wine Paris: Wine Paris

Also, at Vinosud : https://www.vinisud.com/index.php/en

And VinoVision Paris: https://en.vinovisionparis.com/

The above material translated and taken from my favorite wine journal Le Figaro VinLe Figaro Vin journal in French

Hope to enjoy it as much as I/we do. And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

 

 

 

 

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