Archive for January 22nd, 2019

January 22, 2019

Church of Notre-Dame de l’Assomption at Sainte-Marie-de-Ré!

So lets move out into the coastal areas of my belle France for a change of scenery. Here is the sea at its best and you are in an island! My wandering road warrior trips took me here and it was nice even if seen plenty of coastal towns before in my life. This one has many experiences from WWII that I detail in previous posts on the island.

Today, I like to tell you about one of its beacons, the off the beaten path Church of Notre Dame de l’Assomption in the town of Sainte-Marie-d-Ré, the main one on the island. First a bit on the town and then the Church ok

Sainte-Marie-de-Ré is located on the Ile de Ré (island), in the Charente-Maritime dépt 17 of the Nouvelle Aquitaine region. This small town has agglomerated the hamlet of the Noue stretching continuously along the south coast of the island of Ré, from the pointe de Chauveau to the Grenettes beach, facing the ïle d’Oleron. The coast is lined with beaches and small cliffs , where the remains of many fish locks are discovered at low tide. The presence of many blockhouses of the Atlantic Wall on the coast reminds us of the dark hours that the town experienced during WWII. During the French revolution, the town bore the name of the L’Union. On December 27, 1888, Sainte-Marie took the name Sainte-Marie-de-Ré.

The parish of Sainte-Marie-de-Ré, quoted as early as the 12C, is known as probably the oldest of the island. The present Church of Notre-Dame de l’Assomption   was inaugurated in 1864. With its simply bleached interior walls and its apparent framing, it shows the sobriety of a barn; But, by its imposing proportions, its large nave with three ships, the refined decor of its choir and its beautiful brightness, it is nonetheless majestic. Besides, some visitors, from the first glance, find it as a cathedral appearance! Its steeple, dating from the 15C, once painted in black, served as a bitter. The platform of this steeple is equipped with a parapet on crows forming machicolations that have been blocked during restorations and even partly reconstruction in the 19C in the Church Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption ,there are ex-votos in the form of beautiful models of boats that are exposed.

sainte marie de re

sainte marie de re

In 1467, the Church was fortified and surrounded by a ditch. Undoubtedly the ambient insecurity, of the Hundred Years War, led the inhabitants to fortified the Church. It served as a refuge for the population, and thus it allowed to withstand external assaults. The Church then had a belfry, but still no steeple; the Gothic octagonal spire dates from the 14-15C. In 1870, the bell tower was black, to serve as a bitter vessel. Until 1950, it was painted regularly. The base of the steeple testifies to what remains of the edifice of the medieval period if you ascend to the bell tower at 19h (7pm) , at the time of the Angelus, you will hear the bell ringing very closely in your ears! The steeple of the Church of Notre Dame de l’Assomption has 47 meters in height with 91 steps to climb it and reach a walkway; 20 meters is this walkway above the ground. The more you go up, the more the steps are reduce and become quasi straight!

Sainte Marie de Re

Sainte Marie de Re

The smallest date of 1775. It comes from a Swedish boat probably shipwrecked. The bell has no name. The middle one, done in 1853, is called Marie-Françoise Xavière. The biggest, in bronze, dates from 1818, it is called Magdeleine. It is worth to climb these 91 steps, the panorama on the village of Sainte-Marie is splendid. Once the promontory was used as a maritime surveillance station. During the week, the bell tower is visited by registering at the Sainte-Marie tourism office. Otherwise, on Sunday morning, members of the Association of Friends of the Church are there. Lovely!

Sainte Marie de Re

Sainte Marie de Re

A webpage to help you plan your trip

TOurist office of Ile de Ré on heritage in English

Parish Catholic site on the Church

This is an island to fully enjoy of its beaches ,laidback ambiance,and lovely side streets especially in Summer months. Hope you have enjoy the tour.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

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January 22, 2019

Church of Saint-Martin at Saint-Martin-de-Ré!

And to continue now on the west coast of my belle France and in beautiful tranquil Ïle de Ré and its wonderful main city of Saint-Martin de Ré. We are having cold days as winter seems to finally stay in but with high of 7C in my neck of the wood la vie en rose!!

As before, let me give you a bit on the town and then on the Church. Enjoy the tour!

Sainte-Marie-de-Ré is located on the Ile de Ré (island), in the Charente-Maritime dépt 17 of the Nouvelle Aquitaine region. This small town has agglomerated the hamlet of the Noue stretching continuously along the south coast of the island of Ré, from the pointe de Chauveau to the Grenettes beach, facing the ïle d’Oleron. The coast is lined with beaches and small cliffs , where the remains of many fish locks are discovered at low tide. The presence of many blockhouses of the Atlantic Wall on the coast reminds us of the dark hours that the town experienced during WWII. During the French revolution, the town bore the name of the L’Union. On December 27, 1888, Sainte-Marie took the name Sainte-Marie-de-Ré.

The parish Church of Saint-Martin in Saint-Martin-de-Ré still draws its gothic ruins in the heart of the city. Ravaged several times by conflicts, it was eventually rebuilt more modestly in the 17-18C, reusing what remained of the Gothic edifice.

Saint Martin de Re

Saint Martin de Re

In fact, the construction of a new building in the 14C, which seems to have continued in the 15C after the troubled period of the Hundred Years ‘ War, began. In view of the surviving ruins, the Church had to be spacious and very bright, with a perfectly respectable vaulted height. It was also fortified (it then took the name of “Grand Fort”), in view of the remains of machicolations still present today on the medieval ruins. It is a complete system of machicolations on arches on the facades that overflow on the walls.

The Ïle de Ré, with a Protestant majority, was sacked by the latter in 1586 during their disputes on the territory against the Catholics. The church collapses in large part; however, there will remain only the base of the walls of the nave and the lateral chapels and the high walls of the transept, preserved because of their military importance, being fortified. In the 17C the cult was able to resume in the devastated edifice, after the victory of the Catholics over the Protestants. In 1629 the actual reconstruction work begins. They will last for several years. But the building was again ravaged in 1696 during the bombardment of the stronghold of Saint-Martin-de-Ré by a fleet consisting of English and Dutch ships. In the French revolution, the cult is momentarily closed.

Saint Martin de Re

Saint Martin de Re

The bell tower now serves as a panoramic terrace on the city and its surroundings. The steeple formed by a square tower is now visitable and contains three imposing bells: Marie Thérèse ,the biggest one ; Charles Catherine ;the middle one; and Marie Pierre Michel Samuel Augustine, the little one. The oldest parts date from the 15C: These are the walls of the two crosses of the transept, still in elevation, endowed with a path of round and endowed with their gates to the mutilated statuary. The chapels of the present choir (which was in fact the nave of the old Church) ,and those of the south aisle also subsist in the medieval building. You can also see a window of flamboyant style and now obstructed on the north hole wall. The building of 1628 was also vaulted with warheads and followed the orientation of the medieval church. However, it was strongly shaken by the collapse of the bell tower in 1774, and only the clipped columns and the high sides of the aisles and the nave seem to remain. The orientation of the choir was altered after the collapse of 1774, and a new steeple was built at the site of the medieval shrine. The church was then roof covered.

Saint Martin de Re

Saint Martin de Re

Chapel to French priests killed by the French revolution

The 18C bell tower, of neo-classical style, built during the reconstruction of the Church when its orientation changed. Previously, it was the choir that was in that place. The Church of Saint Martin has a rare characteristic with five altars side-by-side along the apse!. From left to right you see the Altar of the Holy Rosary, the High Altar, the Altar of St. Martin and the Altar of the Sacred Heart. The Altar of St. Radegonde, on the left, is hidden. Stained glass on the right aisle of Saint Augustine and his mother, St. Monique, are in meditation in Ostia. The Chapel of the Sailors with its traditional ex-voto of models of boats and paintings.

 Saint Martin de Re

Saint Martin de Re

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here are

City of Saint Martin de Ré on tourist office

Tourist office of Ile de Re on heritage in English

Very off the beaten path but another wonderful spot in my belle France. The detour on the island is well recommended.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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January 22, 2019

A bit on Gan, Pyrénées Atlantique 64!

So let me bring you down to a beautiful area and wonderful wines. I have enjoyed with the family for many years and even been base at Pau to just drive around the whole region. It is a pity not better known, as it is worth a detour for an off the beaten path area of my belle France.

The city of Gan is best known for its wine, which I have done another post on it. However, it does have a nice Church which again is very little credited and it is a nice stop while in town. It goes to saying have wine and take time for the Church. Let me tell you a bit more on this quant little town.

Gan is a commune in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques dept 64 in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, and only 9 km south of Pau. The St. Barthélémy Church was rebuilt near the ancient church of St. John which was restored in several phases between 1811 and 1930.

gan

gan

The St Barthélémy Church has an 18C gilded wooden altar, enamelled Way of the Cross of ceramists Cazaux, stained glass windows of Atelier Mauméjean.. The Atelier Mauméjean is one of the main actors in the decoration of the stained glass. They are the work of three generations of Mauméjean the oldest being a Saint Peter of 1891 the most recent dating from 1939. The 18C gilded wooden altar located in the left ambulatory is the oldest room. The restoration of the church in 1920 and entrusted to the Abbot Annat priest of Gan who will follow the complete remodeling work of the Church to be consecrated in 1922 by Monsignor François Marie ,Bishop of Bayonne.

gan

gan

Some webpages on the city heritage and sites are

City of Gan on heritage

Official Bastide fortified towns of dept 64 so Gan

Gan is a large French wine-growing town with permission to produce the following appellation wines:   Béarn, comté de Tolosan; and Jurançon.

The Béarn is a French AOC label (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée))   and a European AOP label(Appellation d’Origine Protégée).

The Comté de Tolosan is a European label IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée). Note that the IGP label replaces the VDP label (Vin de pays) since 2009. It also has the word “regional “. The word “regional ” means that the IGP has the legal area of wine production of the widest possible. As it is fixed to a whole region which can bring together several departments

The Jurançon is a French AOC label (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée ) and a European AOP label (Appellation d’Origine Protégée ).

We love and are direct with the cooperative at Gan for jurançon and béarn wines, delicious at affordable prices!

gan

This market is usually open from 8h to 13h in city center. These times can vary depending on the weather and the season.

There you go a nice stop for us always on the way in or out of Spain, and we stop by Gan  too. As said, we have even stayed at Pau and wondered around this area for several years. Very nice places and should be seen more by all. Hope it encourage you to do so.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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