Archive for December, 2018

December 21, 2018

My travels in the Morbihan, LXXVI

Need to have a break from all those glorious towns and come back to my lovely Morbihan and our errands. The season to be merrier is near and we will try to do our best after our losses of dear wife and mother. The weather is definitevely more wintery cold and gray, and light rain falling on Friday but sometimes is worse somewhere else. We take the best of what we can get.

Let me bring up to date. The pastries snacks order for Christmas is done, and will cook something local with great Champagnes and wines to at least get a family unity here far from the rest of the family; the closest been 6 hrs away by car. We are planning to visit the grandmother in Seine-et-Marne (77) after Christmas, mainly because my oldest son is ongoing auto school for his license until Friday.

As my oldest school is in Auray and my Dad needed some adjustment to his hearing aid also in Auray, we took some time to walk around our previous home as nowdays not much there, spending more time in Vannes. Here are basically a pictorial.

We set out early to get bedding for our dog Rex already one year old and nice, we love him to death! He is a mix labrador, border collier, more on the collier side we think. Right now he is already sleeping in his new bedding in the living room!!!  We got that at Maxi Zoo in the town of Séné (next to Vannes). As we were there, had our lunch at a new place.

We passed by it and finally decided to stop in. Le Triangle brasserie restaurant in Séné. Nothing fancy just a regular French mom and pop resto.We had our usual pint of Leffe blonde beer with a bib of sirloin steak, fries,and salad, and expresso coffee for 20.50€ per person ok for lunch. It is diagonally opposite the Maxi Zoo store.  Here is a bit more on it: Le Triangle Séné

Sene

sene

sene

From there we went to Auray, drop off my oldest at his auto school (for driving license) and then walk around inner city Auray taking some photos which usually have no time to take on this historical wonderful small town by the Loch/Auray river that flows into the Gulf of Morbihan and then the Atlantic ocean! Enjoy the pictorial!

Auray

from upper town to lower town St Goustan port

auray

pl de la République behind hotel de ville Christmas tree and market

auray

upper town to lower town auray river to gulf of morbihan and atlantic ocean

Auray

from old castle to st goustan quai Franklin and the auray river

auray

Christmas market area at pl de la République behind hotel de ville

auray

pl de la République from hotel de ville towards lower town and st goustan port

auray

port of St Goustan from above castle ruins, inner harbor place st sauveur back loch river front auray river to gulf of morbihan love it

auray

from above castle ruins to st goustan and the L’Armoric bar resto ourhangout! at pl St Sauveur!

Enjoy it the season to be merrier, Merry Christmas to all my readers and best wishes from the heart!

I have to give it again, the Auray area tourist office : Tourist office of Auray

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

December 21, 2018

The 3 Dumas, only in Paris of course!

Let’s continue the saga of the ïle de France region, well the island of France has it all, it is France then the rest oops sorry! There was a guy who published a book after passing unfortunately they call it A Movable Feast (for Paris) but I always tell folks he was short on travels, if he had done more out of Paris, he would have left some writing on the second volume, France is a movable feast; thank you E Hemingway.

However, let’s stay with just Paris for the moment shall we! There is a simple square I passed by now less often, that has the particularity of showcasing the history anecdote of 3 Dumas; and I like to bring that to life in a humble way in my post now.

The story is told on this square. The place Général-Catroux is on the 17éme arrondissement of Paris. This rectangular square is crossed by Boulevard Malesherbes and Avenue de Villiers; It receives the rue Henri-Rochefort, rue de Phalsbourg, rue de Thann, rue Georges-Berger, rue Legendre and rue Jacques-Bingen. This site is served by metro line 3 at the Malesherbes station as well even thus I always been by here with my car.

Opened in 1862 on the site of a park, this square retained for a long time the nickname “Place des Trois Dumas”, (square of the 3 Dumas) because of the three statues of the Dumas, which adorned the center of this square. It was actually called “Place Malesherbes” and was renamed in 1977. And as my travels goes my pictures of only of Dumas of D’Artagnan , one of my all time favorite with the family spirit of All for One and One for All!

The nice building architecture around the square can be summarize as follows:

At No. 1: Hôtel Gaillard, built for Émile Gaillard, regent of the Banque de France, collector of art, to house his collections of furniture, trinkets, paintings, etc. The red brick building inspired by the architecture of the castles of Blois and Gien was built from 1878 to 1882. After the death of Émile Gaillard in 1902, his collections were dispersed and the hotel was bought by the Banque de France in 1919 to become a branch. An entry exists by No. 11ter, rue Georges-Berger, where the building is referred to as Hôtel Berger. It is something very noticeable and I love it!

At No. 6: the building here was built in 1907, in return on No. 31 Avenue de Villiers. At No. 12: Embassy of Liberia. This building was the headquarters of the propaganda service of the French Legion of Volunteers against the Bolshevism (LVF) under the occupation of Paris, whose head office was 19, rue Saint-Georges. At No. 14: Russian news agency RIA Novosti (now Rossiya Sevodnya). At No. 20: a mansion where the composer Charles Gounod lived from 1878 to his death in 1893.

Some of the monument/statues to see here (and other than the bank building the reason to stop by) are:

The Monument to General Thomas Alexandre Dumas, erected in 1912. It is represented taking over a rifle. It was sent to the cast under the Vichy regime in 1942. The city of Paris replaced it with Irons, made in 2008, representing a monumental broken chain in memory of General Dumas, born a slave in Haïti.

The Monument to Alexandre Dumas (father) It was inaugurated on 4 November 1883 in the presence of a huge crowd. A statue of d’Artagnan cantoned the rear face of the pedestal.

The Monument to Alexandre Dumas (son) was erected in 1906. Alexandre Dumas (son). is one of the first writers to live in the plain of Monceau, place of painters, actors and musicians. He resided at No. 98 Avenue de Villiers.

paris

paris

The Monument to Sarah Bernhardt, 1926, represents the actress in the title role of Phaedra de Racine. It had a hotel at the end of the square, at the corner of Avenue de Villiers and rue Fortuny.

One of the architectural delights of walking, biking or driving thru Paris or at least a bus where you can see the marvels of the city; there is so much to Paris, I say  ,will need a lifetime and more to see it all. Just lucky to be near.

Enjoy walking it, very nice indeed and of course very near of another gem of Paris, the parc Monceau; see my post on it.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

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December 20, 2018

Museum promenade/Aqueduct Marly-le-Roi

And here I am back into my old home ground, in the Yvelines dept 78 of the ïle de France region. This is heavens ,history, architecture and good views all over. I have seen a lot but just touching the surface, there is so much more to see in my belle France!

I like to tell you about a walk, promenade, that became a museum. About an idea of an aqueduct that became just a dream, and about impressionists painters, some of the best all in one area. This is Marly-le-roi and Louveciennes town areas of the Yvelines. I passed by them often and even visited friends at Marly-le-roi. Not to mention walked these places of history and beautiful quaint villages/towns.

The museum is exceptionally close. Reopening scheduled for fall 2019. More here: Musée Promenade of Marly le roi

Marly le roi

You will cross the national domain of Marly-le-Roi. Although today there is nothing left of the castle of the time, pavilions and basins built for king Louis XIV, the estate retains a royal charm with its many aisles, its statues and the remains of the old buildings. You can pass through it, visit the Musée-Promenade de Marly-le-Roi-Louveciennes The museum traces and illustrates, with the help of an interactive model of the estate and its collections fine arts, archaeology and decorative arts, the splendour of the ancient residence of the Sun King. Models and technical objects present the famous machine of Marly, admirable hydraulic prowess, built under king Louis XIV to supply water to the fountains of Marly and Versailles.

Marly le roi

A room is dedicated to the favorite of king Louis XV, Madame du Barry, and to Madame Vigée Lebrun, portraitist of Marie-Antoinette, both residents of  Louveciennes. The museum regularly offers temporary exhibitions, animations, guided tours, lectures, concerts…etc.

Think of going back down to the village in front of the sublime place de l’Abreuvoir which served as a diverting the waters of the gardens of the estate. Now to the banks of the Seine river, whose changing and dazzling colours attracted many painters: Corot, Sisley, Pissaro, all painted these recognizable views from Port-Marly. Many have come to settle there to enjoy the tranquility of this pretty town on the banks of the Seine. Follow the banks of the Seine, and you will discover the representations of the most beautiful impressionist paintings, posed, at the same place where the painters laid their easels! In the program Le village de Voisins (neighbors) painted by Pissarro in 1872, the « Barrage de la Machine de Marly » (Dam ) by Alfred Sisley or the “Route de Versailles” by Renoir

The aqueduct of Louveciennes, sometimes called the aqueduct of Marly, is a aqueduct bridge built in the 17C during the reign of king Louis XIV. Located in the town of Louveciennes (Bougival also claim it !) in the Yvelines dept 78. It was part of the hydraulic system designed to supply water to the gardens of the Château de Marly and the park of the Château de Versailles from the Seine river. The aqueduct was composed of 36 arches. Its length was 643 meters for a width varying from 2 to 4.4 meters and a height of 10 to 20 meters; a monumental machine, the machine of Marly, located on the Seine river below, at the height of Bougival, pumped the water of the river with the aid of fourteen impellers. By pipes laid on two paved ramps, it made it climb the nearly 150 meters of elevation of Louveciennes Hill. The aqueduct was taken out of service in 1866 and replaced by underground pipes during the Siege of Paris in 1870, the Tower of the Levant served as an observation post to the future Emperor William 1er and to Chancellor Bismarck. This tower was renovated between 1998 and 2000.

Louviciennes

More from the Paris tourist officeTourist office of Paris on the museum promenade

Also, the area tourist office from Seine Saint Germain en Laye (in French) on the promenade : Tourist office Seine SGL on the Promenade Marly

Tourist office Seine SGL on aqueduct of Louveciennes

Therefore, there is a lot more to see than castles here, and you should enjoy it all surrounded by lush surrounding in noble French traditions. Hope you enjoy it as part of your visit to that other famous city nearby….

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

December 20, 2018

Let’s remember Le Nôtre!

Now this is almost winter but gardens are always in my mind; lucky to live in such a country that worship them. And my favorite gardener of all times, André Le Nôtre.

On a cloudy rainy cool Tuesday afternoon awaiting the start of my Christmas/New Years vacation in my lovely Morbihan of Brittany, I can only think of my beloved Versailles,after  almost 10 years of residency, it is always in my mind. So, therefore, let me tell you a bit more about Versailles and one of its greatest exponents André Le Nôtre.

Most now know who is Le Nôtre, so I will cut short the introduction. He was born in Paris March 12, 1613 (birthplace site the Tuileries, the gardens!!!) ; and the site of his first work thanks to Catherine de Médicis.  There is so much missing on his life because most of the papers of his genie were lost over the periods!!!. His family: André Le Nôtre is a son probably also a  grandchild of the gardeners of the Tuileries. His father, Jean, had the title since 1625 of plants and garden designer, and share the responsibility with Claude 1er Mollet of the Tuileries gardens. His grandfather Pierre Le Nôtre, was in charge since 1572 of the upkeep of the terraces garden of the Tuileries.  André Le Nôtre marries in 1640, Françoise Langlois, daughter of an artillery commissary of France, they have 3 kids, all died of early age. Moreover, the tradition continues because two of his sisters became gardeners too. Françoise marries Simon Bouchard, manager of the orangeries of the  Tuileries, post that allows the bequest of their children in the same field. Elisabeth marries the gardener Pierre Desgots,that worked most notably at  Chantilly, and their grandson Claude Desgots will be the next closest collaborator of André Le Nôtre. He learned the trade of designing by working for 6 years with the shop of  Simon Vouet in the Louvre. It is here that he meets and befriends the painter Le Brun (later work with him at Vaux-le-Vicomte and Versailles, etc ). He, also, worked in the gardens of Luxembourg Paris, Palais-Royale Paris, Chantilly, Saint Germain en Laye, and Fontainebleau. His hands are at work too at  Trianon, Clagny, Maintenon, Saint-Cyr , Meudon, and maybe Marly. In the châteaux de Saint-Maur, Saint-Martin de Pontoise, Chaville, Louvois, Pontchartain ,and Conflans, as well as in the provinces such as  Gaillon, Guermantes, Castries, Les Rochers, and so on and on…Also, internationally, such as Greenwich for Charles II of England in 1662. He conceived a project for the Château de Racconigi in Italy in 1670 and remade the gardens of Venaria Reale in Italy in 1674-1698.  .He started his work at Versailles by order of the King in 1662 next to Le Vau and Le Brun. The making of Versailles begins, and so the ever bright start of Le Nôtre rises to touch the heavens and stay there forever in the minds of all of us that admire this place so much. During the year 1675: he received, on this occasion, the order of Saint-Michel followed, in 1681, of the Order of Saint-Lazare. The photo below is in Versailles!!!

versailles

He lived on a house not far from the Pavillon de Marsan (building where today is the musee des arts décoratifs in Paris rue de Rivoli), and it is in this nearby house where he died on September 15 1700. His funeral was celebrated in the Church St Germain de l’Auxerrois near the Hôtel de Ville of Paris and he is buried at the nearby Church Saint-Roch at 254 rue Saint Honoré.  The chapel that hosts its tomb is adorned with a painting entitled The Martyrdom of St. Andrew. His widow, Françoise Langlois, soon ordered a funeral monument to honour her husband’s memory. Realized before 1707, he took a seat in front of the high altar, under a large arcade. Detaching itself on a background of marble veined with colour, it consisted of an allegory in white marble holding the epitaph of the Gardener, in gold letters on a black marble, all surmounted by the coat of arms of the deceased, with the famous three snails and the necklace of the Order of Saint-Michel; Below, at the Spectator’s height, was placed on a console the bust of the deceased, the head slightly turned to the right. Desecrated during the revolution, there remains of this burial that the bust

Upon his death, the local newspaper Mercure Galant said of him in 1700, (Trans) ” The king came to lose a man unique, and in love with is service to him, and a strong admirer of his own art, that had given him honor. It is Mr le Notre, general controller of buildings for his majesty, its gardens, and manufacturers of France….Never a man has given more of all that he has been able to give and contribute to the beauty of gardening…” The government of France has in the ministry of culture a space for him all alone in French, that is the honor of a good son, http://www.lenotre.culture.gouv.fr/index.html

Versailles celebrated big time his 400 annivesary in 2013 and I wrote a similar post of which this one mostly borrowed . Some of the activities and renovations due to his celebration by the city were:

versailles

The beautification of the avenue de l’Europe, with a cyclable path along the sidewalks without interruption from the there to the ave Saint Cloud jonction to the avenue de Paris.  Th jardin des Senteurs at the cour des senteurs right by the Potager du Roi(itself now under renovation). The renovation of the garden in the Maison des Musiciens Italiens  (see previous post on it) as well as jointly with the SNCF to have bicycle paths from the train stations to visit the city on a vélo! it will criss cross the city and give you an opportunity to see more than the castle museum.

The great allée Le Notre, more often overlook by visitors, it is the extension of the castle  envision by Le Nôtre, along the axe allée des Mortemets that goes to the eau des Suisses at the today caserne Pion almost at the doors of the city of Saint-Cyr-l’école right by the ferme de Gally (see previous post), back of the Grand canal! A complete renovation in the gardens all dear to me such as Potager du Roi, parc Balbi, and domaine de Madame Elizabeth (see previous posts). The Allée Royale in the castle will be an excellent opportunity to see his work up close starting from the bassin d’Apollon descending to the Grand Canal, and beyond into the Etoile Royale going to the communities dear to me such as the Saint-Cyr-l’école,Fontenay-le-Fleury, Rennemoulin, and Villepreux (road 307).

Versailles

paris

An “André Le Nôtre International Prize” was founded in 2013 on the occasion of the 400th anniversary of the birth of André Le Nôtre. It was presented in the context of the meetings André Le Nôtre of Versailles. It is intended to reward landscape architects from all over the world, for the whole of a work (from conception to realization, through the quality of the mastery of work, knowledge and know-how).

Hope you can see some of his work in France, they are all gorgeous. One reason Versailles is so nice!!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

December 19, 2018

Museum Hôtel-Dieu, Mantes-La-Jolie!

So bringing you closer to my old stumping grounds and very dear to my family. There are several towns in France that are given the unofficial designation of Royal towns, and one of them is Mantes-La-Jolie, in the Yvelines dept 78, Ïle de France region.

I have already told you much about the town in previous posts and on the main thing the Collegiale Church of Notre Dame. However, I like to tell you a bit more about a gem sitting right next to the Church and well worth the visit, me think. I will tell you a bit about the old hospital and now museum Hôtel-Dieu of Mantes La Jolie.

mantes la jolie

mantes la jolie

It is very easy to get from Paris gare Saint Lazare as usually its end terminus for trains destination Mantes. It has two stations Mantes Station and Mantes la Jolie, the closest to city center. Both on the same line Paris Saint Lazare. It can also, go by south to Montparnasse station in Paris. By car, my way, you get there on the A13 direction Rouen, and exit 11. The best places to park is at Parking Hotel de Ville ,place Saint-Jacques and Normandie ,place Henri-Dunant both in city center.

Hôtel-Dieu, now a museum. 1 rue Thiers, open every day except Tuesday from 12h to 18H admission was 5€ to check.

mantes la jolie

The collections presented on a permanent basis currently form two sets. Particularly from the depositories of the Notre Dame Collegiate Church and the Sainte-Anne of Gassicourt Church, a set of pieces dating from the medieval period, including sculpted elements, medieval lapidary works testify to the high quality of regional artistic production. The paintings and works on paper by the impressionist painter Maximilian Luce, composed of more than 150 works, from drawing to painting, through lithography and etching , illustrating the themes of the landscape in the Seine Valley, the nascent fluvial tourism, the industrial development and the condition of the man at work.

mantes la jolie

The museum’s new reserves, located in the heart of the Val Fourre District, are home to other treasures, from the collections from the three collectors ‘ museums, historical and documentary (Deschamps Collection), Scientific (Mesnil Museum) and Beaux-Arts (Duhamel Museum), having helped to forge, at the beginning of the 20C, the city’s heritage profile. Occasional presentations of these eclectic collections (sculptures, furniture, earthenware, art objects…), as well as a policy of pedagogical animation in the space of the reserves will allow to rediscover them.

mantes la jolie

The future extension of the museum will also allow the redeployment of these works and the creation of convivial spaces.

One webpage that could help you plan your visit here or ask me is

City of Mantes La Jolie on the Hotel Dieu

The town can be walk as the main things are just couple minutes away on foot! Easily a full day visiting all Collegiale church and museum as well as the tour Maclou.

Hope you enjoy this other Royal town west of Paris and the others around here such as Poissy, St Germain-en-Laye, Rambouillet, Marly-le-Roi, and Versailles; all in the Yvelines dept 78. The wonderful Yvelines 78 indeed.

and remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

December 19, 2018

Some news from France CCXIIII

So this is the season to be merrier even if I have to try harder.  I will be the first Christmas without my dear late wife Martine of 28 years, and the 26th Dec is our wedding anniversary too. Getting stronger and moving on, there is so much to tell about my belle France these days coming up to the end of 2018. I will be on vacation starting tomorrow, and as usual still do not know where I am going lol! Excuse me!!!!

Just in could not wait until another Some news from France. The 500 years of renaissance of Leonardo Da Vinci, shows ,food:wines, heritage , sciences and innovations done by the Centre Val de Loire region 500 events in all; loads of info here at vivadavinci. Vivadavinci, Leonardo Da Vinci 500 years!

And of course ,do not missed to visit Amboise and the Château du Clos de Lucé; more here: Château du Clos Lucé

It is probably the most famous Parisian metro/subway line, seen by tourists and locals, and for cause: it is a good part outside above ground. Line 6 between Charles de Gaulle-Etoile and Nation, 6th line of the RATP network by its attendance, is also the one that spends the most time outside. And it is for the renovation of its famous viaducts that the line will undergo heavy work, very annoying for the users, during the next two summers. Line 6 will indeed be completely closed to traffic, between the stations Montparnasse and Trocadéro, during the summers 2019 and 2020.

Especially since the summer, at the same time, the SNCF maintains its work on the central section of the RER C, which will cause six weeks of total cut-off. This summer, with the stations Bir-Hakeim and Champs of Mars-Eiffel Tower closed, the metro station closest to the most visited Parisian monuments will be Trocadéro, a 13 minute walk.

A large pedestrian esplanade of 155 meters long on 35 meters wide with breathtaking view of the Trocadéro on one side, the Eiffel Tower on the other and the Seine on both sides. This is what could be, on the horizon 2024, the Pont d’iéna Bridge  which now hosts three lanes of vehicular traffic in each direction. The hypothesis will only be confirmed in April when the selection board (composed of elected officials but also architects) holds the winning team and its project. But it is already strongly fought by the city/town hall of the 7éme arrondissement. Time will tell stay tune!

Something that is not surprising to me as on business trips need to take them and only on business trips ; the trains of France lol ! In a report published this week, the Arafer, the regulatory authority for railway and road activities, is alarmed at the high degradation of the train service in France, and in particular the TGV. The rail constable studied all high-speed relations in France and his verdict is unappealing: 24% of the TGV have a delay of at least 5 minutes. Thus on 114 million passengers TGV in 2017, 26 million were delayed by more than five minutes compared to the theoretical timetable, and nearly 4.3 million had a delay of more than 30 minutes. Oddly enough, only 1.6 million passengers operated the famous G 30 guarantee which reimburses 25% of the ticket price (probably because the refund is to your name and not the company so never used them lol!). But the SNCF has huge margins in front of it by dealing with the operating deficiencies that caused more than half of these delays. A tip: When your trip includes a correspondence between TGV and TER or vice and versa, the 15-minute rule between two trains will not necessarily protect you from a magnifying glass! Be careful: Plan more time.

Now will dwell into fashion, men’s that is , sorry ::)

Do men take out the great dress garments at the end of the year celebrations? I’m not sure! The storefronts of department stores, which are not the type to miss a commercial opportunity are always a good barometer of real consumption trends. This year, their storefronts dedicated to the masculine fashion put rather in front of outdoor sets of spirit high mountain, a style at the same time in vogue, perfect for possible winter holidays and, especially, for the weeks and months to come, now that the cold has arrived. In short, the evening clothes are not particularly highlighted. But that doesn’t mean that a little more dressed style is not fashionable.OK c’est la vie en ma belle France!

Lousy me with gardens but dwelling a bit into my dear late wife Martine domaine; For its 18th edition, the jury of the National Vegetable Gardens Competition has awarded 21 remarkable gardens in terms of diversity, good practice and aesthetics. Organised by the French National Horticulture Society (SNHF), the Figaro as partner, the Jardinot Association and the National Interprofessional Seed Group (Gnis). The ones from closer to me were the  garden of 600 m2 divided into two plots that is cultivated for 35 years with a perfect technical mastery in Villeneuve-Saint-Georges (Val-de-Marne). Hayat Kontate in Arcueil (Val-de-Marne) in the category “Shared vegetable gardens set up and cultivated within a company or by an association”. Unique me think.

And from tomorrow ,Wednesday, December 19, a new playground in the Nelson Mandela garden. 300 m2 to play football, basketball and ping pong. To realize this giant mural on the ground, it was necessary to design tools but also paints capable of adapting to the soft coating usually tinted in the mass. The result: An abstract motif that reminds the artist of the cartography and satellite visions of the highways and paths that continue from the ground to the football cages, through the baskets of basketball. In order to completely insulate the space, the balloons were adorned with climbing plants and mobile urban trees which mingle with the plants. Entirely painted by the street artist Romain Froquet. By the les Halles, Paris of course!

Whether small or large, we meet at the parc des Rives de Seine on the banks of the Seine river  to practice free winter sports as can rarely be done in the capital. Speaking of course of cross-country skiing , curling or biathlon. See you on the slopes!  Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville 4émé from December 22nd to January 2nd 2019 and from 13h to midnight.

A year after opening an exceptional audience, the hotel Mezzara at 60, rue Jean-de-La-Fontaine, 16éme in the autumn of 2017, the Cercle Guimard again pays homage, with a beautiful book, to this unsung masterpiece of Art Nouveau built by Hector Guimard In 1910. Entitled “Hôtel Mezzara by Hector Guimard”, 28 pages, 20€ book. In the Bookshop Le Cabanon at 122, rue de Charenton 12éme, and the bookshop of the Cité de l’architecture (city of Architecture)  at the Palais de Chaillot 16éme. If the hotel Guimard located nearby, at 122 Mozart Avenue , was sold and divided into apartments, making the hotel Mezzara a Hector Guimard Museum and a center dedicated to Art Nouveau would make it possible to realise the architect’s wish. Stay tune….

Something local for me to keep track of.  One month after voting for the first time the merger with the city of Saint-Germain en Laye, the municipal council of Fourqueux was called this last Monday evening to deliberate again on the issue. It will answer on behalf of Saint-Germain-en-Laye and must be effective on 1 January. The first municipal Council of this new entity, which will first gather together the 70 councilors of the two cities, is convened on 7 January 2019. Fourqueux is a chic town next to SGL and they should match! Stay tune.

l’Atelier des Lumières 11éme arrondissement house in the former foundry of 1835 transformed into a digital art center of 3300 m2 will honor the Dutch painter. His works will be projected at 360 °, including floors, thanks to a special technology named Amies (Art & Music immersive Experience). Especially since in just ten years, Van Gogh has made more than 800 paintings and more than 1000 drawings: a gigantic production that allows us to create a solid digital exhibition. By his painting, Van Gogh has upset the history of art and digital can be a great way to account for his universe. “Van Gogh, The Starry Night” and “dreamed Japan, images of the floating World” at the Atelier des Lumiéres. 38, rue Saint-Maur 11éme arrondissement. From 22 February to 31 December 2019. Rates: 14.50€ (full), 11.50€ (reduced) and 9.50€ (children). Open Monday to Thursday, 10h-18h. Nightly on Fridays and Saturdays until  22h  and Sundays until 19H. On weekdays, closing of the ticket office on the spot at 16h, purchase online only. Week-end: Buy online only at  https://www.atelier-lumieres.com/fr/van-gogh-nuit-etoilee

On November 4, 1922, British archaeologist Howard Carter discovers the mythical tomb of the pharaoh of the 18th Egyptian dynasty (14C BC) in the Valley of the Kings. A tomb containing an extraordinary treasure, part of which will be revealed to us in this immersive exhibition. The Grande Halle offers us the unique opportunity to admire 150 objects of world heritage and to travel, for a moment, in the time of the pyramids. Tutankhamun, the treasure of the Pharaoh at the  Grande Halle de La Villette 221, Avenue Jean-Jaurès 19éme arrondissement from 23 March to 15 September 2019 . https://lavillette.com/programmation/toutankhamon_e185

Some cozy places to spent your Christmas in Paris are:

The Petit Boutique hotel in the quartier Saint-Honoré transformed its terrace by setting up a Slavic hut surrounded by fir trees. An intimate refuge, with its Scottish rugs, velvet cushions, colorful candles, fluffy benches and friendly tables, as well as a platinum to listen to its own vinyls. The Le Roch Hotel. 28, rue Saint-Roch 1éme.   https://www.leroch-hotel.com/restaurant-bar

The pop-up bar all of red lacquered, nestled in a suite with terrace and view on the Eiffel Tower, promises a trip in the Shanghai of the 1930’s. Shangri-La Hotel. 10, Av. of Jena  16éme.Every day from 18h. to midnight.   http://www.shangri-la.com/paris/shangrila/dining/bars-lounges/le-bar/

The palace, always offbeat, plays the cards of a frosted terrace. Under an inflated and transparent igloo, it is not feared to settle down to take a vintage Champagne cup well beaten by picking tapas with truffle or caviar admiring the icebergs of mirrors stranded in the water basin. At Royal Monceau Hotel , 37, Av. Hoche  8éme. Daily from 12h to 23h   https://www.leroyalmonceau.com/en/bars-leisure/our-terrace-garden/

A place to see Santa Claus or Papa Noêl and one of my favorite places in Paris. Descending directly from the sky, Santa decided to put his sled on the roof of the Montparnasse tower. Christmas at the Montparnasse Tower. 33 Avenue du Maine 15éme. Coming from Santa Claus on 19, 22, 23 and 24 December from 14h to 18h   https://www.tourmontparnasse56.com/fr/nos-evenements/noel-sur-le-toit-de-paris/

For the first time, Galeries Lafayette organizes a walk in the air on a 9 meters long glass walkway suspended at 16 meters above the void. You will be able to see more closely the most famous Christmas tree in Paris, from the third(4th US)  floor of the store. And bonus: This memorable moment will be immortalized for free by a photographer! Les Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, 12, rue de Mogador. https://haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/events/glasswalk

And in closing , a bit on wine etiquette much needed ,especially around these dates:

Young, intense and tannic wines need to breathe.  Even a white wine can win to be carafé. Instructions not to miss. The carafe has the power to speed up the time that passes over the wine. It allows it to complete its evolution, to help its growth. For it puts it in contact with the indispensable companion, who is also the worst enemy: OXYGEN. The more a wine is deprived of oxygen, the longer its life slows, the longer its ageing. Put it in contact with the air and the needles of time are wrapped. Decanting a  wine is therefore valuable for that does not have the means to allow time to time. The young, intense wines, cramped in a bottle, need to evolve, to relax, to breathe. This is the case with red wines from Bordeaux, South-West(sud-ouest), Rhône, Languedoc, Spain, South America and North America. In short, all the powerful and tannic wines that have not had time to skate will be happy to be decanted. The wine will gain in intensity and complexity, its structure is more molten in the mouth. It is quite easy to estimate the need: past the stage of the corkscrew, these wines do not smell much in the nose and, in the mouth, behave like a small compact ball that weighs on the tongue instead of investing the whole palate. In this case, one does not think: the contents of the bottle are poured into the carafe. It is no more complicated than that. You can then go up one level. If wine emanate from unpleasant odors of reduction, close to cabbage or onion, it is necessary to act vigorously and, why not?, with panache: Perform the maneuver in height, in the manner of the Mint tea servers, shake the carafe vigorously until that the wine begins to foam, signs that CO2 is emitted under the effect of oxygenation. One can even transfer from the carafe to the bottle several times in a row to further accelerate the aeration effect. The carafe is just an example of a container, but if the wine is particularly young and restive, you can use a bowl, a vase, any container. It is better still to finish by reintegrating the wine in its original bottle, otherwise you will have trouble to impress your guests by bringing a bucket on the table lol!.

Enjoy the seasons wherever you are and very much so in France, where else!!! And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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December 18, 2018

The Castle/Museum at St Germain en Laye!

And now that I am in the neighborhood of St Germain en Laye, a wonderful town near my old home, why not tell you again about a wonderful castle of great historical significance and a beautiful museum today. It is a must see while here and very easy to get to from Paris.

The town of St Germain en Laye is located in department 78, call Yvelines , west of Paris. It was very near me and I did shopping and eating out there often with the family. It is ,also, the birthplace of king Louis XIV with a beautiful castle now a wonderful museum. To come best on the RER A from many points in Paris, or the train  station Grand  Ceinture ,just at entry to the city from the west, train from Paris gare St Lazare, the official site for the local trains is http://www.transilien.com/web/site/lang/en

The most obvious parkings  is by the RER station, two call RER and Chateau parking in two levels. The other is to go underneath the Vieux Marché or market area on ave de la République, or the parking Pologne at rue de Pologne or the Monoprix store parking. The city of SGL has a good explanation on parkings and public transport even in French can easily be understood, here http://www.saintgermainenlaye.fr/cadre-de-vie/venir-circuler-et-stationner-a-saint-germain/rer-bus-voiture-taxis-liaisons-avec-les-aeroports/

The town offers many sightseeing choices and it is very easy to get to from Paris.  The town grew because of the castle and the forest that surround it which are magnificent with a wonderful view of Paris in the distance and its monuments at the park done by Le Notre. The name is old possibly from 972 AD when king of the French Robert I had built a monastery in honor of St Germain ,probably St Germain des Prés. The name of the town can be translated as Saint Germain of the forest in new French.

St Germain en Laye

In 1777, King Louis XVI donated the New Castle, in bad condition, to his brother Charles, Count of Artois, the future Charles X. He had it demolished with the intention of rebuilding it.  Under the Empire, the Château-Vieux was repaired to form a cavalry school. It hosts the Special Military School of Cavalry, opened in 1809 and merged, in 1914, with the Special Military School of Saint-Cyr. From 1836 to 1855, the castle was transformed into a military penitentiary. It was extensively restored under Napoleon III . On March 8, 1862, an imperial decree acts the creation in the castle of a Museum of Celtic and Gallo-Roman Antiquities (later renamed Museum of National Antiquities, then recently , and still today the Museum of National Archaeology).

St Germain en laye

The castle revolves around an inner courtyard in the shape of a trapezoid, taking the primitive route of Charles V Castle. The wings that frame this courtyard traditionally bear the following names: King’s Wing (north wing), Queen’s Wing (east Wing), King’s Children’s wing (southeast wing), Chapel Wing (southwest Wing), and the Feast Hall Wing (West Wing).

St Germain en laye

St Germain en laye

The ballroom is located in the West Wing. Unfinished at the death of François I, it was inaugurated by his son Henri II at a grand banquet in 1549 to celebrate the baptism of his son. It is more than 500 m2 and has a monumental chimney with a stone motif, which features the salamander; the emblem of François I. Louis XIV transformed it into a comedy room, and the team of formidable instruments. More than one hundred and forty representations of all kinds were given in this room considered the largest of the whole kingdom. Lully and Molière knew their hours of glory here. In 1666, king Louis XIV performed himself in the Ballet des Muses. This room now houses the comparative archaeology room.

The castle museum are well kept with a beautiful chapel of  St. Louis, located in the Gothic castle, is a vestige of the ancient fortress. It was built by Saint Louis in 1238. Louis XIV, although born in the Château Neuf, was baptized there. An inner courtyard, floors of antiquities artifacts from the region very nicely display, and the adjoining park design by Le Notre overlooking Paris. Behind the castle in what is now the restaurant Pavillon Henri IV, a marker displays the fact that king Louis XIV was born there.

St germain en laye

St Germain en laye

Of course, the castle now the museum of antiquities or musée national des antiquites it covers in three floors wonders of the old days found in the surrounding areas, and it is considered one of the best in its genre.  Behind you see an archdoor leading to the Pavillon Henri IV restaurant (great dining) an enblem showing this is where Louis XIV was born. The parc and gardens were done from  1668 to 1675 by the great gardener Le Nôtre, and it has an expansive view over Paris and the vineyards of Le Pecq that after doing so from antiquity are now back in form from 2000 onward producicng pinot noir base wines.  The museum page is here,  Museum of National Antiquities SGL

St Germain en laye

The tourist office of SGL for more info is here  http://www.ot-saintgermainenlaye.fr/

Some of the stories and personalities of the Castle and the city of Saint Germain en Laye were:

king François I married Claude de France in the Chapel of the old castle in 1514 , and became its favorite living property. Henri II is also born here, and he became king in 1547!  Charles IX established a glass making trade in 1561, and  Henri IV exempt the inhabitants of all taxes in 1599 priviledge that lasted until 1789! king Louis XIII spent his youth at the old castle, and it was while hunting from here that he discovered another place to later build his hunting lodge-Versailles. He later died here in 1643, while his son Louis XIV was born here in 1638. As king Louis XIV spent a great deal of his time here from 1661  to 1682 afterward the castle decline as the new other property was been built at Versailles. The king of England Edward II came here in exile from 1689 to his death in 1701 at the old castle, and is buried across the street at the church of St Germain (see that post).

A town that saw the birth of  (year following name) :Henri II, 1518; Marguerite de France, Queen Margot, 1553 ; Jeanne d’Albret, (mother of Henri IV and great figure of the Reformist era) ,1528;Charles IX , 1550 ; Louis de Buade count de Frontenac,( Governor of New France (Canada)),1622; King Louis XIV, 1638 ; Philippe de France, duke of Orléans,1640 ; Philippe de France, duke of Anjou, (oldest son of Louis XIV), 1660; Marie-Louise  of England , (daughter of king James II of England exile in the city and buried at the Church of St Germain across from castle), 1692;  Claude Debussy ,1862 ; Edouard Bourdet, 1887;  Jehan Alain, 1911 ;  Christian Fouchet, 1911,(ambassador and previous minister and follower from the first hour of Gen de Gaulle); José Artur, 1927; Michel Pericard (1929-1999), (previous mayor of Saint-Germain- en-Laye (1977-1999),deputy of the Yvelines  (1978-1999) , and Vice President of the National Assembly of France (1997-1999); Jean-Edern Hallier, 1936;  and Pierre Douglas, 1941…

A town that saw the passing of figures such as (year of death following name) : Louis XIII,1643 ; James II king of England, 1701; The knight  Ramsay  1743 ; François de Beauharnais, (father in law of Joséphine first wife of Napoléon), 1800 ; prince de Polignac, 1847 ; Adolphe Thiers, President of the IIIe Républic, 1877; the Poet Catulle Mendès, 1909 ; Henri Cochet, Tennis champion 6 times winner of the Davis Cup, 1987; Suzanne Chantal, roman writer, 1994.

And who have passed by in the city, some of the famous are : Molière, alias Jean-Baptiste Poquelin; Mozart for a day in 1778 ; Benjamin Franklin also in 1778; Alexandre Dumas father and son. The father wrote  “Les Trois mousquetaires” and “Le Comte de Monte Cristo” in the city while commander of the national guard in town as well as directs the theater.  The son wrote  “La Dame aux camélias” in the city. The musician Claude Debussy, and the painter Maurice Denis , that have a museum in the city as well. And of course, many many others too numerous to mention.

So therefore, is it worth a detour out of Paris glitz! come on over the Yvelines dept 78 of the region of Ïle de France; the first , history , architecture, marvels of my belle France. Enjoy SGL wholly!

And remember, happy travels ,good health, and many cheers to all!!!

December 18, 2018

Church St Germain, St Germain en Laye!

Let me tell you in one post about a nice Church many times overlook even if right smack in a historical part of Royal and historical Saint Germain en Laye, Yvelines dept 78 region of Ïle de France. Near my old home.

Often folks go to the castle and museum across the street, take their RER A and zoom back to Paris. However, this is a historical Church right in there and a must to see in my opinion. Behind the Church you start on city center and loads of shops and restaurants and a wonderful outdoor market. I am talking here about the Church of St Germain, time to give it a bit more credit that so much deserves.

St Germain en laye

St Germain en Laye

Saint-Germain Church. It was called at the beginning of the 18C Saint-Germain-de-Paris. Located in front of the castle, this current Church built in 1824, in a neo-classical style inspired by the Paleo basilicas, was restored from 1848 to 1854. Its facade has a triangular pediment supported by six Tuscan columns, four of which are aligned in front and two in return. The present Church is however closer to Saint-Philippe-du-Roule in Paris.

St GErmain en laye

The present Church is the fourth built on the site. It was built on the site of an ancient Church built in 1683 by Jules Hardouin-Mansart and became too small, which replaced a first church of the 14C. The first stone laid on November 20 1766 by the Duke of Noailles: the works were quickly stopped but taken over by the order of Louis XVI at the request of the municipal assembly. The French Revolution provoked the abandonment of the works until 1823, when the construction was restarted, and proceeded to the completion of it in 1827. The new Church was blessed on December 2, 1827 by Jean-François-Étienne Borderies, Bishop of Versailles.

St Germain en laye

Some of the nice things to see inside are:

Benedetto Antelami, Descent of the Cross, 1178, identical to that preserved in the Cathedral of Parma. It was offered to the Church by a family of the city in 1994. Its origin is disputed: It would be a second version made by the artist or a later copy…

Notre-Dame du Bon Retour (Our Lady of the Good Return), 14C, Virgin and the Child discovered in the 19C during the construction work of the Church.

Christ on the Cross, 17C in Baroque style, unknown origin.

Baroque pulpit chair given by king Louis XIV, from the third chapel of the Château de Versailles, abandoned in 1710 to make way for the present chapel of Jules Hardouin-Mansart and Robert de Cotte.

Charles-Joseph Natoire, the Baptism of Christ c.1750, originally painted for the chapel of the castle of Machaud d’Arnouville, Minister of king Louis XV. Very close to a first version made in 1747 (now at Museum of Fine Arts of Arras). This painting is the last work painted in France by Natoire, then at the height of its fame, before its definitive departure for Rome.

Honoré Icard, the Hereafter, 1913, grouping in marble.

The Mausoleum of the King of England, James II (Stuart), exiled to France and greeted by his cousin king Louis XIV. He resided and died at the Château de Saint-Germain, where Louis XIV had lived a few decades before.

St Germain en laye

The walls of the nave and the apse are adorned with frescoes by Amaury-Duval, a pupil of Ingres, on the theme of the New Testament. They were completed in 1857.

St Germain en laye

The Grand Organ was commissioned by king Louis XIV to Alexandre Thierry in 1698. Aristide Cavaillon-Coll rebuilt the organ keeping the old part that could be saved. In 1903, Charles Mutin remade the instrument (forty four games), the largest part of the piping of the 18C disappeared. In 1967, the company Haerpfer-Erman performed a restoration and reinstalled the back positive by Mutin. Buffet in 1930 and instrumental part in 1975. The Choir organ was built by Aristide Cavaillon-Coll in 1889.

st germain en laye

A great personality and local boy was Claude Debussy ,French musician born in Saint-Germain-en-Laye on August 22, 1862, was baptized at the Église Saint-Germain on July 31, 1864.

Some webpages to fully appreciate this Church of St Germain  and help plan your trip here are

Tourist office of St Germain en Laye

City of St Germain en Laye on heritage

Tourist office of SGL on St Germain Church

The Catholic Parish of SGL on the Church

The Chorus of St Germain Church

The Friends of Old Saint Germain en Laye in French

There you go , do not miss it next time, worth your time there. Wonderful Saint Germain en Laye, many memories especially from the sights just to come to the market for goodies with the family.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!

 

 

 

 

December 17, 2018

Madame Elizabeth, Versailles of course!

And I am back in my routine preparting end of year and new year’s things with the boys. The sad part will be the first one without my dear late wife Martine; we will hang tough.

I like to bring back a wonderful piece I wrote in 2017 of a great personage of my beloved Versailles. This is again Madame Elizabeth, the sister of Louis XVI and also guillotine in 1794 simply for defending her brother!

I can’t help been a lover of travel fares to indulge on history. It is rather condense and long, but writing about a wonderful personage of my Versailles merits an effort. I will tell the story of Madame Elizabeth. One of my favorite personalities of the history of Versailles and France and have visited her places several times. This is post in 2017 for a refresher.

Versailles

Élisabeth Philippine Marie Hélène de France, dite Madame Élisabeth, was born May 3 1764 in Versailles and baptised at the Royal Chapel in the castle in the presence of her grandfather king Louis XV, and her grandmother the queen Marie Lesczynska  ; as well as the godparents the princess and her uncle Felipe I of Spain duke of Parma and her godmother the great aunt Elizabeth Farnese, princess of Parma that gives her the name and represented there as well by Marie-Adelaide de France daughter of Louis XV. She is registered in the Church collegiale of Notre Dame. She died under the abusive guillotine on May 10 1794 in the revolution square today Place de la Concorde. She was the 8th and last children of the dauphin Louis Ferdinand and Marie Josephe de Saxe, and sister of king Louis XVI.

Versailles

She was imprisoned in 1792 same time as the king and ask to present in front of the revolutionary tribunal under the terror and ordered to be executed ,simply for defending her brother. Recognised by her piety and acts of charity as well as her death associated as a martyr she was declared a Servant of God by the Catholic Church in 1953.

Early on she is left orphan after the death of her father from tuberculosis and the two years after the mother. Both of them only 36 years old leaving five children including the oldest at 13 the future king Louis XVI. Madame Elizabeth received an excellent education and is interested in the arts. Where she is introduce to the arts by her nanny The countess de Marsan along with her older sister Madame Clotilde (by 6 yrs). With great influence from her Aunts she follows a Catholic course of great piety and devotion while at the same time certain liberties.

On May 10 1774 the king Louis XV died and Louis-Auguste at the age of 19 yrs old becomes king Louis XVI. The education of Madame Elizabeth changed to a new nanny that of Baroness de Mackau that gains her confidence as well as her own daughter. Shortly, after the coronation, the older sister Madame Clotilde is married to the Prince of Piemont ,leaving for Turin, and the young Elizabeth finds herself alone in Versailles at the age of 11. At age 15, she obtained the ok to have her own house and proper revenues from the court.

In 1783, the king offered her the Domaine de Montreuil, purchased from the Rohan-Guéméné and located in the village of Montreuil not far from the Château de Versailles. Now it is a district of Versailles well praise and the home sits in a lovely park still named the Domaine de Montreuil. From 1784 to the revolution, major reconstruction and development work was undertaken. The buildings are rebuilt in the neo-classical taste and the gardens in the Anglo-Chinese taste then in vogue (dummy cave, streams, waterfall, etc.). Some of the cabinetry work in the house is now display in the  Louvre Museum and the Nissim-de-Camondo museum of Paris.

Versailles

Madame Elisabeth will be close to her sister-in-law Queen Marie Antoinette. Favorable to smallpox, which allows to guard against smallpox, a deadly and frequent contagious disease, which affects all the layers of the population, leaving the best of horrible scars on the face, she calls her doctor. The latter is surprised to find her surrounded by her ladies, but also by the peasants of her land, who can thus gracefully benefit from the progress of medicine. She, also deprived herself for four years of the gifts which the king gave him so that one of his ladies in her entouraged, Mademoiselle de Causans, could constitute the dowry necessary for her marriage with the Marquis of Raigecourt, a gentleman from Lorraine, of whom she was in love.

On May 3, 1789, Madame Elisabeth  reached the legal age majority. The next day she attends the Church of Saint Louis de Versailles at the opening of the general states.  On 4 June 1789, the dauphin (heir to the throne) died at the age of 7 years at the Château de Meudon.  Madame Elisabeth  approached the Queen, her sister-in-law, to support the king. On October 6, 1789 , the Royal family is forcibly brought back by the people to Paris.  While, she could easily withdrawed to the Bellevue Castlenear Meudon, she chose to share the fate of her brother. The princess (Madame Elizabeth)  adopted an ultra position, without any concession to the supporters of a constitutional monarchy.  As early as 1790, she supported the principle of an alliance of emigrants with the foreign powers which it awaited salvation. Through the Count of Virieu, among others, she regularly corresponded with the count of Artois, his brother, who emigrated to Turin and then to Koblenz, whose ideas she shared.

Versailles

One of her letters to the Count of Artois  (Louis XVI brother; and later Louis XVIII) was discovered one day on an officer who carried it, and the missive was given for examination at the National Assembly. Princess Elisabeth said of the king that he was allowed to be led by his ministers sold to the Assembly, and that there was nothing to be hoped for without outside help. She recommended to the Count of Artois to act by himself, committing him to put the other sovereigns of Europe in their interests, for, she said, Louis XVI is so weak that he would sign his own condemnation if required of him.  She also objected to the civil constitution of the clergy and to any measure that diminished the royal prerogatives or those of the Church. The Aunts and nannies ladies went for the papal states in 1791 and offer the niece to accompany them; however, Madame Elizabeth once again choose to stay with the Royal couple. She followed her brother and sister-in-law on the foiled flight to Montmédy on June 20, 1791.

When the king was suspended by the legislature on August 10, 1792 and dethroned a month later, the assembly decreed that  Louis Capet (Louis XVI), his wife(Marie-Antoinette)  and children (Louis-Charles and Marie-Thérèse), as well as Elisabeth, would be detained until further notice at the Temple prison.  A letter from the Marquise de Bombelles  informed by her daughter, Madame Alissa de Chazt, who secretly communicates with the prisoners , gives this news to the Marquis de Raigecourt, husband of her best friend:

“I had as you the same information about our unfortunate princess, her thinness is, it is said, scary, but religion supports her, and she is the consoling angel of the Queen, of her children;” Let us hope that she and hers will not succumb to so many evils. How could one complain by having the imagination filled with the painful picture of the inhabitants of the temple »

The king was executed on 21 January 1793. Early July, in order to avoid any attempt to escape, the young Louis-Charles,then 8 yrs old (would have been Louis XVII but strangely disappeared without trace), was separated from his mother and aunt, then Marie-Antoinette, on the decree of Barère, Reporter of the Public Salvation Committee, was sent back to the Revolutionary Court and sent on August 1st to the Conciergerie.  In the winter of 1793, Madame Elisabeth, ignoring the execution of her sister-in-law, shared her cell with her 15-year-old niece on which she saw after the execution of her parents and the separation of her brother the little “Louis XVII”.  The “sister of the tyrant” gave the political police an opportunity to hold a trial after which Elizabeth was sentenced to death. To the public accuser who treats her as “the sister of a tyrant”, she would have replied: “If my brother had been what you say, you would not be where you are, nor me, where I am!”

On May 10 1794 , she was driven by cart in the place of the revolution(Place de la Concorde), the last of a batch of 25 persons. It is at this moment that she learns from her companions of misfortune the fate of Marie-Antoinette. Before she was executed, she unsuccessfully claimed the help of a priest that Fonseca-Tinville refused with derision.  After her  guillotine altar, she continues to comfort her companions and companions of misfortune. She saves the life of one of them, Madame de Sérilly, convincing her to reveal a possible early pregnancy.

Her truncated and stripped body was thrown into one of the common graves of the Errancis cemetery. After the revolution, the remains could not be identified despite the testimony of a gravedigger who located the common grave. The bones exhumed during the work of piercing avenues are placed in the catacombs of Paris with those of the other people.  A medallion represents her in the Basilica of  Saint-Denis.

In the continuing process of beatification, as Madame Elisabeth died in the smell of holiness. According to Madame de Genlis, a rose smell spread over the Place de la revolution (now Concorde) after her execution. Her cause in beatification was officially introduced on December 23rd 1953 by the Cardinal-Archbishop of Paris Maurice Feltin. She was thus declared Servant of God. As the procedure did not start, Cardinal André Vingt-Trois  proceeded to reopen her cause of beatification in 2016. It was then Abbé Xavier Snoëk, parish priest of Sainte-Élisabeth of Hungary Church in Versailles, who was appointed postulator of the cause. In May 2017, the Archdiocese of Paris recognized as the private association of the faithful the actors of its cause of beatification!!!

Versailles

The domaine de Montreuil is a park of 7,2 hectares of beautiful trees, and nice clean gardens, in which the house where she lived after a gift from her brother king Louis XVI in 1783. There was already a fortress here in the 1375 and was later acquired by the  Prince de Rohan-Guéméné (of Brittany!) and his wife Madame de Guéméné in 1772.

The house is a two level building in stone streaked with horizontal slitting and surmounted by broken attics. The ensemble included a chapel on a circular plane and zenithal lighting, as well as a Turkish boudoir. The fence wall, along the avenue of Paris, crowned by a balustrade, it served as a terrace from which one could admire the park and the garden ; the drawings are preserved in the National Library, the Musée Carnavalt and the Musée Latha,to keep the memory of this building domaine.

Madame Elisabeth establishes a small health center in Montreuil in a room in the house for the poor in the vicinity. These are cared for by the doctor and botanist Louis Guillaume Le McCann, who brought rare plants into the garden of the estate. The revolution ends these occupations.

Having escaped the fragmentation of properties during the French Revolution, the Clausse family became owners in the early 19C, Charles Louis Clausse, Mayor of Versailles died on September 10, 1831. Between the WW important restorations are done by the next owner Jean-Baptiste Chantrell. In 1955 his daughter Lydie sells the property to a real estate company. The maison de Madame Élisabeth belongs since 1984 to the General Council of the Yvelines dept 78. The Orangerie, acquired byt the deparment of Yvelines 78 since 1997 serves as a temporary exposition center.  There was a milking barn and cows now gone.  What remains of the original building are just 3 rooms: the apartment bedroom of Madame Élisabeth (never used as under aged she needed to sleep in the castle); the Turkish doudoir and the Harpsichord Room

The link here is of the current owners, the General Council of the Yvelines, the regional government entity. It has nevertheless a nice Video of it! In French:   Council of the Yvelines on Madame Elizabeth

The Catholic site on her beautification process and more history in French: http://www.paris.catholique.fr/madame-elisabeth-princesse-et.html

Versailles tourist office in English with nice photos: http://en.versailles-tourisme.com/cultural-heritage/le-domaine-de-madame-elisabeth-943152

And more in English at the Chateau de Versailles official page here: http://en.chateauversailles.fr/discover/history/madame-Elisabeth

Truly remarkable and so sorry so many comes to Versailles and just don’t walk the 10 minutes to go her house at 73 Avenue de Paris (road D10) up straight from the castle/museum. Go for it, it’s a beautiful walk in Royal Versailles.

And remember, happy travels, good health,and many cheers to all!!!

 

December 17, 2018

Some news from France CCXIII

Getting back at you after a few days in Asia (see that post earlier) and right from Paris CDG airport here is a catch up post on the latest from my belle France , especially Paris. Temps at landing here was 1C but of course no sweat this is Paris right!

Some of the latest tidbits while passing by my eternal Paris were

There is Monte Cristo hotel rightfully so, to honor Alexandre Dumas! all done with faîence mural textures, oriental arts, and details to tell you about his trips all in 50 rooms, a pool and sauna as well as the first rum bar of Paris! A cigar humidor and massages in room!  Give it a shot while in Paris of course! More here: Hôtel Monte Cristo

you a bar with vinyl records and not bottles , need to try the Fernando Sancho (mezcal,aquavit,, orange syrup and lime) with cassava chips. All at Bar Fréquence, 20 rue Keller, 11éme. More here: Bar Fréquence

Le Danton carrefour de l’Odéon, get a coffee here and see the world at 103 bd Saint-Germain, 6éme: more here: Yelp on Le Danton

And one of my old hangouts and friends for a drink at the bar, now totally renovated is the Le Bristol hotel  classic at 112 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. Opened in 1925 and keeps on going great.  More at the Oetker collection members; Le Bristol at Oetkercollection

Continue on chic Paris, the Le Meurice hotel has opened a take out pastry corner!! Right at wonderful 6 rue de Castiglione, 1éme. Right across my old job, and done by pastry maker Cédric Grolet. More here: Dorchester collection Le Meurice pastries

Until January 27 2019 go to the Musée d’Orsay to see Les Renoir, genius by heritage! See the work of Auguste Renoir, the impressioinist painter: Jean Renoir and his films; see the exhibition entitled Renoir father and son. 1 rue de l Légion d’honneur, 7éme. More here: Musée d’Orsay on Renoir :father and son

How about that other department store of Paris, BHV Marais, 52 rue de Rivoli next to the Hôtel de Ville of Paris, and on a wonderful street. Over 2000 fashion and homemade brands, the wonderful Café Marlette, and the roofstop bar le Perchoir lovely. More in French at BHV Le Marais

A nice private theater at Théâtre de l’Atelier, 1 place Charles-Dullin 8éme.  very nice cozy, quant, and just another off the beaten path suggestions; more here: Theatre de l’Atélier Paris

For something nice above ground and enjoy immediately the beauty of Paris try the Le Bus Direct. A lot better and no Air France confusion.  6 stops inside Paris and can get you from CDG to Orly as well. More here: Tourist office of Paris on the Bus Direct

Official webpage of Le bus Direct is: Le Bus Direct

Remember you have ways to come into Paris from the airports. Le bus Direct, RER B, Roissybus all wonderful and use them; I take them to go into the city for news and done calling night service such as CDGVAL airport shuttle train to all terminals . You have access using RER express regional trains most.

Now in T2 E of CDG Paris airport you can try the Café Eiffel , relax just improve;more here: Pairs airports on Cafe Eiffel

Orly airport is linking its two terminal South and West by April 2019. more here on the shuttle service. Orly airport shuttle to CDG

And for now enough, enjoy Paris is eternal flame in our hearts. And remember cheers for travel, no excuses to sit and do nothing, and do talked to the kid enoug birds.

And this is it for today on my eternal city. Remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!

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