Archive for October 6th, 2018

October 6, 2018

Museum of Fine Arts at Tours!

And since will be away for a few days , let me finish my story on the city of Tours with its wonderful museum in a historical building.  The day still cloudy and rainy and temps are down to 15C or 59F.

Need to tell you about a museum; granted I love history and all related to museums are part of it, even if do not go to as many as I should. The Museum of Fine Arts or Musée des Beaux-Arts of Tours is excellent. Let me tell you a bit on the history and collection,just brief,you get the idea come and see it, you will be glad I told you so.

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The Museum of Fine Arts, its in the old Episcopal palace of the bishops near the Cathedral, since 1910. It has a beautiful collection of French paintings and the primitive Italian or old Italian masters painter such as Mantegna, as well as sculpture by Rodin, Houdon and Others. It has a cedar trip planted in 1902 while a visit by the Barnum and Bailey Circus with around it an elephant killed while going while that year.

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A French-style garden extends past the episcopal palace of the 18C, which has retained part of its original decor. A cedar of lebanon, tree can be seen in this same courtyard, in a building in front of the palace, Fritz, a stuffed Asian elephant, slaughtered because he became uncontrollable during a parade of the circus Barnum & Bailey in the streets of Tours on June 10, 1902. Access to the elephant and the large cedar tree is free inside the park.

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A bit of history I like

The museum houses in its underground the most beautiful lapidary inscription to the glory of the Turons (original inhabitants of Tours). The first bishops had chosen to settle in the vicinity of the Cathedral, in a palace built on the rampart of the 4C which still remains today of beautiful traces including the corner tower. Another vestige of this period was a chapel backed by the Archbishop’s palace dating back to the 4C and rebuilt in 591AD  on the orders of Gregory of Tours. This building was transformed in the 12C and partly destroyed in the 17C during the development of the new Archbishop Palace. In the 12C the so-called synod wing was built. Constantly transformed over the centuries, this immense hall where two meetings (1468 and 1484) were gathered the States General of the Kingdom of France is one of the most evocative historical places in the history of Touraine. After 1789, French revolution, the Archbishop’s Palace became a theater, a central school, a library ,then by 1792 became the deposit of the works seized (nationalisation) at the French Revolution. A first museum opens to the public in 1795.

Under the Empires and throughout the 19C, the buildings were again assigned to the Archdiocese. The works thus leave this place and move to temporary premises, in the former convent of the Visitation, then in the old stewardship, before the inauguration in 1828 a building created specifically to welcome the museum on the Place des Arts along the Loire river. It was only in 1910, when the city became the owner of the premises, that the collections reintegrated the old Archbishop Palace as of today.

And what is in it… well read on…

The Museum’s oldest fund consists of works seized in 1794 (during the French revolution aftermaths) from the houses of emigrants, churches and convents, in particular the large abbeys of Marmoutier, Bourgueil and La Riche, as well as paintings and furniture from the Château de Chanteloup and the Château de Richelieu. Among the most famous are Gabriel Blanchard, François Boucher, Louis de Boulogne, Jean-Pierre Louis Laurent Houël, Charles de La Fosse, Charles Lamy, Eustache Le Sueur, Joseph Parrocel, Jean Restout. Gaëtan Cathelineau , student and friend of David, Professor of drawing at the Royal College of Tours, bequeathed about fifty paintings of ancient painters, including the only undeniable Hubert Robert of the collection, “Cascade under a ruined bridge”, and an astonishing Louis Cretey, “Tobie and the Angel”. In 1963 the museum receives the collection of the painter and collector Octave Linet, constituting one of the largest collections of Italian primitives after the Louvre Museum and the Museum of the Petit Palais d’Avignon.

The museum maintains an important and fairly homogeneous collection of paintings punctuated by several masterpieces, including the two paintings by Andrea Mantegna   coming from the San Zeno Altarpiece (the Last of the three elements of the predelle, the Crucifixion, being preserved at the Louvre museum): the ancient French painting is represented abundantly for the 17C and 18C. The French painting of the 19C is also amply represented, the collection of Flemish and Dutch paintings presents works by major artists such as Rubens and Rembrandt. The 20C is illustrated above all by a beautiful set of abstract paintings.

For the sculpture, you will find notably the imposing Diane huntress (Diane chasseresse) , bronze of Jean-Antoine Houdon, one of the very rare original prints of the work in marble executed from 1776, as well as works by Antoine Coysevox (bust of Louis XIV), Auguste Rodin (Balzac drape, bronze, 1898), Antoine Bourdelle, Alexander Calder (Mobile, painted metal, circa 1957) and Olivier Debré.

Like I said, simply a must to visit while in the area or in Tours. Some of the webpages to help you plan your trip here are

City of Tours on the museum

Official Museum of Fine Arts

Region Centre Val de Loire on the museum

Tourist office of Tours on the museum

Hope you enjoy the post and make you think about coming over to see it, Tours is wonderful or is it Centre Val de Loire or the valley of the kings or is it France!

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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October 6, 2018

Château de Tours!

And on a rainy cool Saturday I come back to my belle France , but hold on just before leaving tomorrow to my dear Spain…again! The weather in my lovely Morbihan Breton has been like it is Fall and the leaves are fallen nicely.

However, let me tell you about a favorite town of mine, Tours in the Centre Val de Loire region and its wonderful historical castle ,even if today there is not much left of it. So here I go with the Château de Tours.

This one is strictly on the history I like; but why would you visit a castle otherwise!

The Château de Tours, in dept 37  Indre-et-loire, is located on the edge of the Loire in the oldest district of Tours, close to the Cathedral of Saint Gatien, erected on the remains of the ancient city whose towers originates. Almost entirely destroyed in the 18C, its two remaining towers are accommodateded with a new building used by the army from the French   Revolution. After serving as barracks, it is in this singular configuration that it is taken from oblivion and restored in the second half of the 20C

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The 11C initial dungeon and its dependencies were later absorbed by a quadrangular enclosure in the 13C, before a massive destruction leaving space for military buildings from the 18C onwards.   The Counts of Blois, became Viscounts then counts of Tours, had in the 9C a residence located more to the east of the castle (tower Hugon) note 2-the new stone construction of the 11C is erected on the site of primitive thermal baths used until the 4C (Lower-Empire), from the time of the Gallo-Roman City of “Caesarodunum” . It is built by one of the counts of Anjou, probably Geoffroy Martel winner of the House of Blois who appropriated the Touraine in 1044 after the Battle of Nouy.

Consecutively built between 1044 and 10606, it recycles to the north and west the stone wall and bricks of the gallo-roman fortification of the Old City close (castrum) in the corner of which it is built. This 4C wall, much thicker (4.50 m) than those of the new building (2.60 m), is already endowed with towers and gates. The Comtal castle, obviously more residential than defensive, is composed of a large quadrangular room 28 meters longng by 8 meters wide, oriented North/south with a public residential floor , having five windows and a square tower near blind 6 m by 6 meters adjacent in the southeast corner, having three or four floors, where could be located the chamber of the Counts of Anjou.

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The château comtal located in the northwestern corner of the ancient City-which encompasses the cathedral and the Bishopric-controls the outlet of the only bridge spanning the Loire, on the road between Paris and the south-west of France; The construction of the latter, mainly in stone, was undertaken in 1034 by Count Eudes II of Blois, just before his successor, Thibaud III   of Blois, lost the County. The castle also had to control the other doors of the area, North and west, close to the Center enclosure at this time, presumably at the end; The Porte Saint Maur   on the north fortifications and the Porte d’Arcis to the west; The latter being endowed with a circular tower (which will survive until the middle of the 19C), separated from the farmyard by an outer ditch spanned by a bridge, located on the main urban axis (the Grande Rue) leading to Chateauneuf to the west and Amboise to East (through the gate of Orléans controlled by the Hugon Tower on the east flank of the city).. The castle was damaged during the struggles between the French king Philip Augustus and the Plantagenets at the end of the 12C. The romane primitive cathedral, close to the castle, is destroyed on this occasion. The castle is intended to ensure the symbolic presence of the new power and the new form of government established in the town.

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Saint Louis, during the regency of Blanche de Castille restores it and enlarges it in the first half (or at the End) of the 13C, from the south and the east, encompassing the ancient comtal edifice of the 11C and 12C, to turn it into a strong Quadrangular Royal site of 2 000 m2. In the 15C, the tower of Guise, which still remains today, sees its coronation redone with machicolations, its levels completed, in addition to other developments on the Logis. One of the northern openers is equipped with a échauguette in 1467. It was also at this time that Marie d’Anjou would have ordered the construction of a more comfortable, three-story independent building, The new castle of the king, known today as the Logis du Gouverneur , which also borrows the foundations of   the Gallo-Roman compound, on the east side of the Loire, in the perimeter of the Castle’s lower courtyard .

The castle has its chapel , decorated . It communicates with the residential floor of the 11C, where the Aula (overlooking the north-west tower), which is heated by 3 chimneys and illuminated by 6 windows. But the perimeter of the site extends to the south and east of the castle, on a little less than 2 ha, of which more than 4 000 m2 for the right-of-way of the old castle . It is sectored, features in addition to the new logis, the farmyard of the old castle, its annexes that occupy the old outer ditch, including a large stable and a shed of coaches, of different periods, and leads into the “grande rue” to the South (current rue   Albert-Thomas) where it is necessary to pass to access the château, through a sculpture gate, and which constitutes more than ever the main artery of the city on an east-west axis taking advantage of the important development of exchanges with Chateauneuf. The defensive system at 360 ° of the castle is reinforced by palisades planted in the ditches, deep from 7.20 m to 9 m, and on the shore of the Loire; The master tower, which controls the entrance and the Loire, has a base in the form of Anti-aries and anti-undercuts, has archers, some of which are later fitted out for firearms and its machicolations allow vertical firing.. The château, which was above all a royal residence of passage, except a time for Marie d’Anjou and the young dauphin is gradually abandoned by the Kings to the benefit of more hospitable residences of the Loire Valley of the Renaissance.

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On June 24, 1436, Marguerite of Scotland (11 years old) marries, in the Chapel of the castle, the son (13 years old) of King Charles VII, besides duke de Touraine, and of Marie d’Anjou, the future Louis XI of France, before the Archbishop of Reims. Louis XI will be the last king to regularly frequent the castle of Tours without really living there. He set up his government from October 1461, also living at the château of Amboise or warring, until 1470, where he definitively carried his court to the Château de Plessis-lès-Tours, which his father Charles VII already attended when the place was called Montils-lès-Tours. After the so-called King of France Henry III murdered his father, Henri de Guise, head of the Catholic league, he had the son and his whole family locked up. The young Charles, 15, has been retained for less than 3 years in the master tower of the Château de Tours, at level 4 in the custody of thirty Archers. He escaped on August 15, 1591, the day of the assumption after he went to the chapel of the castle to hear the Mass.

In the 17C, the castle is already very dilapidated. The place was the subject of various uses, as a prison (from the middle of the 15C) and, simultaneously, as Arsenal (16C and 17C), to which it was adapted. In this period, the tower of Guise, which serves a time of powder magazine, benefits from major repairs (in particular in 1628 and 1647) which do not prevent its general state from continuing to dégrade. . The castle then serves as a deposit of begging between 1768 and 1782 and still in prison, although a project of the years 1770-1780 foreseeing the construction of a new prison on the whole of the Castle’s right-of-way is finally abandoned. It served as a quarry of stones from 1780, especially for the construction of the quays of the Loire, then for the military barracks. The establishment of the army on the site from the French revolution, reinforced in the Napoleonic era, leads to keep the castle only the emblematic parts still standing and especially the construction of multiple dedicated buildings that will transform its Physiognomy and later the whole place. Tours becomes military region under Napoleon III. Several units will successively hold garrison, thus affirming the vocation of military lodging that had already partially been the castle since the mid-17C.

Only two towers of the old castle are thus preserved, East side, but hardly renovated. They are connected by a three-story barrack building, probably built around 1781 or near that date known today as the “Mars pavilion”. The latter is built at the site of the great inner courtyard of the old castle and its est3 enclosure and backed by the ruins of the dilapidated habitable part of the said castle, west side around the castle thus metamorphosed, acquired by the city of Tours in 1815 for making it a great barracks the first in Tours-, many buildings for barracks and stables are erected from 1816, then between 1824 and 1832, connecting among others the castle and the House of the governors,(Logis du gouveneurs) or independently. The whole barracks, which includes the remodelled castle, now connected to the house of the governors, officially takes the name of “general Meusnier” Barracks in 1887, after having been named “de Guise” until then. And later successive from 1826 Cavalry Barracks (3rd Regiment of the Guards of honour, 9th RCT for example), then Infantry from 1845 (32nd RI for example until 1934) and for other military uses, it will last until the years 1960, before the site was returned to the city of Tours in 1968.

After WWII, the castle still served as a prison under the Nazi Occupation. What remains of the castle of Tours, the house of the Governors including, are truly valued as historical and cultural heritage of the city only since the beginning of the 1980’s, after the archaeological excavations and the clearing of the site. In the northwest corner there are in particular the bases of a ten-meters diameter tower that protrudes outside the enclosure Wall. This tower that belongs to the 13C castle has replaced an older tower of the 4C the tour Cachot Secrets which can have a better idea with the Gallo-Roman tower which is preserved   adjoining the Bishopric (present Museum of Fine Arts) and the remains of the Tour du petit Cupidon, which constituted the south-west and southeast corner of the castrum, respectively. Today there is no more than a central building (the pavilion of Mars) dating back to Louis XVI (18C), bounded by its two cylindrical towers of the 13C, which are the most authentic testimony of what was the royal castle, although the degradations and the many restorations have removed them from their primitive state: The Guise tower, embellished in the 15C, which is the only one to be complete, and the tower Cachot Secrets, of which it is now missing the high-flushed part, probably before the 17C. There is nothing left of the fourth tower that bordered the old castle in the Southwest.. Thus, the dependencies are currently occupied by the siege of the municipal police of Tours, Place des Turones, accessible from the rue   Lavoisier, at the level of the former entrance of the barracks (or by the rue du maures) and the southern parts.   All the other dependencies were destroyed. The majority of the place d’Armes is transformed into a parking lot (place des Turones) but the trees that once adorned it always decorate the places.

Now, two museums and two libraries animate the site The main entrance (pedestrian) is on the Loire, between the castle and the Logis du Gouverneurs or House of the governors, alternatively on the other side by the course the Armorial which has a parking (place des Turones). Access to these museums is free of charge, subject to the opening days..The Museum of Contemporary Art of the Château houses the services of the heritage, exhibitions and international relations of the City of Tours. The history workshop of Tours from 1985 to the House of governors (Logis du Gouverneurs.

The Urban Archaeology Library of Tours; From 1984 to the House of Governors where it was created, the “national Centre of urban archaeology of Tours” (CNAU). The study Library of the Archaeological Society of Touraine; Since 2012, the “archaeological Society of Touraine” (SAT) maintains on the ground floor of the Logis, under the responsibility of a curator-librarian, a study library where the complete collection of its publications is accessible from 1842, who are authoritative in the discipline, and 12 000 specialized books covering prehistory with modern archaeological and heritage history, from Tours to the confines of the Touraine.

It is a nice place to see next to the Loire river and very interesting museums. To help you plan your visit I will post several sites of valuable information here

City of Tours on the castle useful information

Tourist office of Tours on the city sights

The Touraine area tourism on the castle of Tours

Loire Valley tourism on the city of Tours sights

And there you go another nice thing to see in wonderful Tours or towers a city to be visit and revisit, hope you enjoy the history, one reason I love to travel.

And remember, happy travels, good health, and many cheers to all!!!

 

 

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