Archive for May 30th, 2018

May 30, 2018

The unique Koblenz, history and architecture.

Ok so here we go alone reaching the end of May 2018,and I am all nostalgic about my wonderful trips with my dear late wife , Martine. The day has been very rainy here downpour at times ,heard rain in one day what normally is 10 days. But we are survivals!

I do runs to Germany several times in the past, but business trips.  Then, once on a trip to Luxembourg city we went into Trier , great that is Germany. Then , we came back again to do the same trip. And finally, the family decided that we should go just to Germany and see more of it. So off we went renting a house in a little wine town just south of Trier. We use this as a base to visit several towns there. One that took us by surprise and we like it a lot (other than Trier) was Koblenz.

And this town has so much history even combining both France and Germany we were pleasantly surprise and love it. Let me bring you up to date with first posting my previous blog post on it here: Koblenz or Coblence

Koblenz or Coblence ( in French) is a town in the state of Rhineland Palatine , the name come from the confluence of two rivers the Rhine and the Moselle in the German corner or Deutsches Eck, the closest big city are Bonn at 60 km and Mayence at 90 km.  My visit here has been by car from Trier so the 602 ,then A1, B48 and finally the 9 roads or about 3 hrs.were the roads chosen. There is a train station of course,and close airports at Frankfort and Koln; as well as easy navigation by river. However, to us ,car is king and queen!

A bit of history I like (or rather lots of history I like).

Mérovingian period after the end of the Western Roman Empire in the 5C, the city is taken by the Franks (same guys as France) that established a kingdom. Here comes the Carolingian period  When in 806 Charlemagna divides the empire between his sons and Koblenz is taken by Charles but he died soonn after and by 814 is share by the sons of Louis the Fair. A dispute amongst his sons come to be that Charles the Bold inherits the city in 837. By 1018, emperor Henry II offers the kingdom to the archbishop of Trier and so Koblenz is part of the Prince States one of the seven that founded the Holy Roman Empire.

The maternal Uncle of king Louis XVI and his brothers host the Count of Artois and the city becomes the center of counter revolution to the French , they sent troops here and the coalition of Prince Wencelas is force to run and leave the territory ,two weeks later the city is taken by the French revolutionaries. The fortress of Ehrenbreitstein held longer until 1799 before surrendering. This event meant the end of the Prince States of Trier.

Many immigrants from France comes here running from the French revolution such as the Count of Artois and Count of Provence, brothers of king Louis XVI . They planned from here a counter revolution with the help of neighboring kingdoms. A war starts and the French invade over the Rhine river in 1794. By 1795 Frederick William II of Prussia signed the treaty of Basel where he recognized the occupation of the left bank of the Rhine by the French, and name an administrator of the city into the French department of Rhin et Moselle. The treaty of Luneville in 1801 Koblenz is incorporating into the French Republic and becomes capital fo the department

The city received the visit of Napoleon I and his wife Josephine de Beauharnais in September 1804. The French becomes the language of the administration and the name of the town is  Coblentz. The commander of the Russian army that took Koblenz in December 31 1813 was non other than Emmanuel Louis Marie Guignard de Saint Priest ,he had joined the Prince de Condé in 1792 and from 1793 was an officer in the Russian army; it is at this time that the name Schângel that means even today the persons born in Koblenz. According to the terms of the Congress of Vienna of 1815 the lands of the Prince State of Trier are integrated into the Province of the Rhine in the kingdom of Prussia.

At the end of the WWI in November 1918 the workers council and the soldiers come together at Koblenz but a month later the American troops conquered the town and  puts an end to the government of the Soviets . In 1923, the American military turn over the town to the French that on their turn leave the city in 1929 In 1945 the Americans again occupied the city; Upon the accords of the Potsdam conference the occupation is transferred from the Americans to the French and in 1946 the new State of Rhineland Palatine is created. It is at the conference of Rittersturz held at Koblenz in 1948 that it was founded the Federal Republic of Germany or West Germany by decision of the three occupying forces, USA, UK,and France.

Walking the town is magical and we love it; the walks around the German Corner or Deutschez Eck are superb and well recommended at least do this.

Koblenz

Things to see in Koblenz are many ,my favorites are:

Museums of Koblenz, history and civilization and navigation, castle of Stolzenfels, and Louis. The castles of Electors Princes, Stolzenfels and old castle. Municipal theatre of Koblenz; Saint Castor Basilica, Notre Dame Church, Saint Joseph Church, Saint Florin Church , and the convent of Capuchins of Koblenz Also, the Fort Constantine, Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, and the  Deutschez Eck confluence of the Moselle and Rhine river (very nice), the bridge Baudouin and the Fountain of Schângel located in the courtyard of the city hall and place on top a child smashing the water.

Koblenz Koblenz Koblenz Koblenz Koblenz

From the 13C there is a festival on the initiative of monk Caesarius on a carnival scale by the German coin or Deutsches Eck ; the costume was lost during the war of 30 years ; later after the retaking of the city from Napoleon I by the Prussians in 1815 the carnival was reborn in 1823 a new beginning and most important help by the influence of the one in Koln . To our days the principal organizer of the festival is the association  AKK.  The program now includes plays in rooms and promenade parade of Fat Monday, covering the entire city as well as the election of a Prince and his lady Confluentia, the occupation of the city hall and the police barrack of Falkenstein  by mask folks under the direction of the council of eleven and the regents of the crazy days groups  More on it at tourist office here in English: https://www.koblenz-tourism.com/events/events-in-koblenz/carnival-monday-procession.html

Some webpages to help plan your trip here in addition to my blog post above, and it is recommended you do come are

City of Koblenz on tourism in English: https://www.koblenz.de/stadtleben_kultur/stadtrundgang_e.html

A nice webcam on the German corner here: http://www.bafg.de/php/deutsches-eck-gross.jpg

Tourist office of Koblenz in English: https://www.koblenz-tourism.com/

Tourist office of Germany on Koblenz in English: http://www.germany.travel/en/towns-cities-culture/towns-cities/historic-highlights-of-germany/koblenz.html

There you go something to expand our horizons and lucky to be at the crossroad of Europe and all these wonderful places to see easy. Enjoy the post. And remember, happy travels , good health, and many cheers to all!!!

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May 30, 2018

Belmonte, a castle and a story !

I am coming back at you with Castilla La Mancha, just a lovely not often visit region of my beloved Spain.  This as said, was my insistance to come with the family a few years back. I finally convince the Mrs, and we came; well the rest is history. All my family love it and now I get to have some nice memories of my dear late wife Martine.

The castle of Belmonte is link to the history of Spain and France and I was very much wanted to show it to my wife. The first time we tried with all the kids wanting to go to Madrid (for shopping!) we arrive late at lunch time and needed to wait too long we continue our journey and me very upset. I told them next time we come in this is a priority, and so we did come in August 2017. This time we saw the castle and around areas again. Oh yes it is in the Province of Cuenca as well!

Some of my previous blog posts on it are here:

Includes Belmonte here: https://wordpress.com/post/paris1972-versailles2003.com/13697

Just for you Castle of Belmonte: https://wordpress.com/post/paris1972-versailles2003.com/18537

Belmonte ,the city, is located at km 342 of the road N 420 that takes you from Cuenca to Alcazar de San Juan, and the same road can even take you south to Córdoba ,and over east to Tarragona. You need to come by car from Madrid on the A3 direction Valencia , at Tarancon, take the road direction Salices to junction with La Almarcha to take the N420 direction Belmonte .

A bit of history I like

In the papal bull of Innocent III the bishop of Cuenca call it  Bellomonte (beautiful forest), due to the forest that surrounded the town. In 1294 , it appeared in the accounts book of king Sancho IV between the towns on which he collected money to pay his knights that were to accompany  Don Juan Manuel, the future Prince of Villena,to the lands of  Murcia. In 1323  the town gained some notoriety on the Chronicon domini Joannis Enmanuelis,saying that in this year 1323 Don Juan Manuel (also nephew of king  Alfonso X started to built a wall ramparts called Belmont and on the same time built the fortress old  Alcázar. The first member of the family of Pacheco  that was lord of the town was  Juan Fernández Pacheco, that was given by the king  Enrique III the privilidge signed at Tordesillas in 1398, given him the reason for being a person of great importance for the war.  The lordship was inherited by his daughter  María, that married Alfonso Téllez Girón y Vázquez de Acuña. From this marriage came two sons  Juan Pacheco  and Pedro Girón (born at Belmonte). The lordship eventually was inherited by Pedro Girón. The youngest was  Juan Pacheco, first Marquis of  Villena, that ordered built the castle of  Belmonte in 1456  as well as the collegiale Church of San Bartolomé on the same date as the castle.  King Pedro I  of Castile been at Sevilla in 1361  gave the city of Belmonte the royalty and priviledge of a city.  Later, king Enrique II of Castile,  to gained the trust of the courts of Burgos in 1367 gives the privilidge of city and exempt the town of the jurisdiction of  Alarcón  with the same rights as those of nearby castle or Castillo de Garcimuñoz.

Things to see in Belmonte

Of course, a must is the Castle of  Belmonte. Built in the gothic mudéjar style of the 15C where the construction was started in 1456  by ordered of don Juan Pacheco. The exterior was similar to the castles of  Manzanares el Real in Madrid , and Mombeltrán in  Ávila as done by same architect Juan Guas. There is really no certainty of when was finished many dates but the most often said is that of  1474 due to the imminent civil war of 1475-1480.  The castle house the Marquis lord Diego López Pacheco.

Belmonte Belmonte Belmonte Belmonte

By marriage, the castle passes to the family of the House of Montijo and in the 19C is passed on to the Countess of  Teba.  However, was the heiress to the House of Villena,  Eugenia de Guzmán, better known as Imperatrice of the French under Eugénie de Montijo married to Emperor Napoleón III of France. She ordered the castle restored on the exterior and interior such as during her time done with the Patio de Armas, the principal stairs and the chalk chimneys  as well as some of the roof. These works lasted from 1857 to 1870 ,and were ended due to the defeat of the French Second Empire. From 1881 to 1885 the castle is occupied by French dominican brothers that used it as a monastery; after their departure the nephew-grandson of the Imperatrice Eugénie ,the Duke of  Peñaranda, Hernando Fitz-James Stuart y Falcó, continue with the restorations and even came to live in it.  Currently it is the property of the Ducal House of Peñaranda descendants of the Duchess of Alba, María Francisca de Sales Portocarrero, sister of Eugenia de Guzmán, aka Eugenia de Montijo.

Belmonte Belmonte

After a visit to the Castle there is a presentation showing life in it from medieval times to the war of succession of Castile in the second half of the 15C between Princess Juana “La Beltraneja” protected by the Marquis of Villena and her aunt Isabel known later as the Catholic Queen or Isabel I and the role the owner of the castle in this war.  The result was the unification of Castile and Aragon  as Spain in 1492  after the fall of the kingdom of Granada where the owner of the castle Diego López Pacheco  participated and was name by the Catholic kings ,captain general of the frontier in the war.

Then, you can go and see these.  Colegiata gótica de San Bartolomé or collegiale Church gothic from the 15C  built on a previous visigoth Church. You see the wonderful choir leather furniture from the 15C engraved with biblical stories that were taken from the Cathedral of Cuenca in the 18C; the first choir chairs engraved with images of the whole of the Iberian Peninsula. It has an organ from the 18C that still in use for concerts and events of religious music . Some of the retables or altars are from the 16C and 17C very nice.

Antiguo alcázar or Palacio del Infante D. Juan Manuel, (old fortress or palace of the heir to throne) for many years in ruins , the last fall out was in Christmas 2005. Now totally restored and part of the lodgings of the Ruta de Don Quijote (route of Don Quixote), opened in 2014.

Hospital de San Andrés (St Andrews hospital) founded in 1415 in ruins since 1970. It was a lodging for passerbys and pilgrimages, now the altars retables of it are kept in the Collegiale Church of San Bartolomé. Plaza del Pilar or square Pilar there is only some supporting pillars save from those that surrounded the biggest square in Belmonte. There si a fountain restored in the 1990’s and two pillars sweet and sour and from the center you see the College of Trinitarians now a health center. Plaza de correos y telégrafos or postal and telegraph square, there is the former college of the Company of Jesus and later was municipal prison.

Some webpages to help you plan your trip here, all worth it I said.

Tourist office of Castilla La Mancha on Belmonte in English: http://en.www.turismocastillalamancha.es/patrimonio/castillo-de-belmonte-20864/descripcion/

City hall of Belmonte on tourism in Spanish: http://www.belmonte.es/turismo/

Castle of Belmonte official in English: http://castillodebelmonte.com/en/

There you go, another jewel in down soulful Castilla La Mancha, hey you read Don Quijote by Miguel Cervantes y Saavedra, then you need to come by these lands. Have wheels and go into another world.

And remember, happy travels, good health and many cheers!!!

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