Beaune is special for more than wines!

Why not tell you about one of my favorite cities even if rather small it hold it’s charm of Burgundian style ! There are many to see in my belle France, but Beaune is very nice.

Let me start you off with my post on my blog a few years back with info and photos on it.  https://paris1972-versailles2003.com/?s=beaune

Beaune is a Burgundian city located in the department of Côte’d’Or in the region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comte. It can be considered as the capital of the burgundy wines. It is ,also, a flower city with four flowers designation and winner of the Gold Medal at the National grand prize in the European floral entente of 2006. The city is recognized as one of Art and History designation in France.

A bit of history as I like it. Beaune was the residence of the dukes of Burgundy until the 14C.
Duke Eudes III of Burgundy allows Beaune to exist as a city since 1203. The famous Hospices de Beaune, tells us that in 1422 Nicolas Rolin was named counselor by Duke Philippe the Good of Burgundy. He marries in 1421 Guigone de Salins that was part of the nobility of the Comte and founded the Hospices of Beaune in 1452 a new religious order was founded the sisters hospitaliers of Beaune .He ,also, ordered the polyptique painting of the Last Judgment by flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden for the Hospice.

The city went thru the revolts of Beaune in favor of Marie of Burgundy vs the King of France Louis XI, the war of religions ; the city was occupied in 1814 by the Austrians fighting Napoleon Ier. The department of the Côte-d’Or was created in 1790 during the French revolution as no 21. The Viti school of agro and vines was created here in 1884. During WWI Beaune is host to the American Expeditionary Force AEF and its 2 millions men in France. In 1918 , the American military hospital was built at the doors of the city with 20K beds one of the most important in Europe The military hospital is transform into an American University , the University of Beaune opened in 1919 with 15K military students and 600 teachers. French troops of the 2nd regiment entered the city and liberated it finally on September 8 1944.

Some of the sites that I like, well most of them are:

The auction sale of the Hospices of Beaune are done every year on the third Sunday of November and the first sale goes back to 1859. In 1934 the Confrérie des chevaliers du Tastevin creates the Trois Glorieuses, a cultural event that is now part of the auction of the Hospices of Beaune Between 1720 and 1750 the negotiators houses begins to see the day in Beaune with the first one been the Maison Champy followed by the Domaine Chanson Père & Fils. The tours and ramparts were done in 1477 and still there!

Beaune

Other things to see are the musée du vin de Bourgogne (house in the old palace of the Dukes 15-16C) , Musée des Beaux Arts (founded in 1850 with collection from the 12-20C), Musée Marey, Musée Dali, the Maison des Templiers end of rue Jacques de Molay, the lavoir on the Bouzaise river ,the halles de Beaune facing the hotel-dieu where the market is held on Saturdays and the the auction of the Hospices of Beaune are held.

Church of Saint-Baudèle is in old town near the source of the Belenin river that gives the name to the city. The first Church here is from the end of the 5C on the ruins of a temple to Apollo. It houses the relics of Saint Baudèle or aka Saint Boil that was a contemporary of Saint Martin, and was a soldier that was martyred in Nîmes around 395AD. Church of Saint-Flocel is outside the old town against the ramparts. The Church was dedicated in 965AD and received the relics of Saint Flocel ,and Saint Herné in the presence of Duke Otton. Church of Notre Dame , texts tell us that the first Church was established in the old town from 976AD, the western portal of byzantine style of the current Church dates from the 12C. This last Church is the best in my opinion created by the daughters of Cluny around 1120 inspired by Saint Lazare in Autun. The exterior  has three nerfs from the 14C that hides the façade some destroyed during the French revolution but some still there from the 15C . The interior  is nice and ample ,in the choir you see the Black Virgin from the 12C, the second chapel paintings from the 15C representing the resurrection of Lazarus, a pieta from the 16C and on the third chapel  two altars from the 15C , on the south side you see the Chapelle Renaissance. The tapestries are gorgeous behind the main altar  on the life of the Virgin marking the passage from the middle ages to the renaissance.  Five panels trace the history of the Virgin in 19 paintings ordered in 1474 and offered to the Church in 1500.  The cloister dating from the 13C and the capitulary room have been renovated.  just a nice Church.

You have plenty of information on these webpages:

The city page in French on tourism here:  http://www.beaune.fr/spip.php?rubrique1

The tourist office in English here:  https://www.beaune-tourism.com/

The site in French of the metro area of Beaune with 53 towns including Beaune of course;  http://www.beaunecoteetsud.com/-Les-53-communes-.html

The dept tourist office in French :  http://www.cotedor-tourisme.com/bourgogne/art-de-vivre

Transports on getting there and around are plenty for a city this size is tops.

It is a crossroad of many highways such as the A6 only 312 km from Paris and 157km from Lyon giving birth to the highway A31 direction Dijon at 47 kms, Nancy at 258 kms, and Metz at 308 km, as well as the highway A36 direction to Besançon at 108 km and Mulhouse at 232 km.

Two TGV lines runs by it such as the line Paris Gare de Lyon Dijon, and Châlon-sur-Saône and the line Dijon Lyon Marseille and Nice.

Regional service is done on the TER Bourgogne-Franche-Comte and Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes with webpages here:
https://www.ter.sncf.com/bourgogne-franche-comte
https://www.ter.sncf.com/auvergne-rhone-alpes

Wines are at the center of the city it’s heartbeat goes with the harvest and the auction sale of the Hospices of Beaune, and the wonderful Trois Glorieuses. Only the charity piece is done with a candle is given the name of the auction of candles or enchéres à la chandelle.
The Hospices of Beaune  as said were started in 1443 in the Hôtel Dieu we see today. The building has it’s now famous roof  and a wonderful interior courtyard. Inside you find the Grand Salle  or room of the poors with 50 meters long by 14 meters wide  and 16 meters high upon entering you see the 28 beds . You go see the Chapelle  flamboyant style and renovated in the 19C as well as the stained glass. There is a plaque here remembering Guigone de Salins founder and how she took care of the hospital.   You come into the Salle Sainte Anne or Sainte Anne’s  room that was reserved at the time to the noble sick persons. Continue into the Salle Saint Hugues ,it has been renovated with it’s décor of the 17C, the paintings are of nine miracles of Christ, Saint Hugues, a bishop and a Carthusian monk.  Go on to the Salle Saint Nicolas the old nursery of the sick in danger of dying , renovated thanks to a donation by king Louis XIV; it houses today an expo on the history of the Hospices. You can see the Cuisine/Kitchen with an automates figure from 1698. The pharmacie is very curious freak with many pots from the 18C. You now come to the Salle du  Polyptyque built to house the painting of the Last judgment of Rogier Van der Weyden; done between 1445 and 1448. Here in the center you see the Christ  presiding the last judgment  with a throne of heavens showing paradise  on top of Saint Michael  looking on ; around it the Virgin and John the Baptist imploring the forgiveness of Christ; behind them the apostles  and some important personages  imploring for the poor the damn and the saivours . The lateral figures are of Nicolas Rolin  and his wife with grilles showing Saint Sebastian and Saint Anthony, and the scene of the annunciation. Here you finally reach the Salle Saint Louis, built in 1661 housing the tapestries of Tournai showing the Child,  from early 16C and some from Brussels end of 16C showing the history of Jacob, there is a vault and fountain on this room too.

Beaune Beaune

There are other nice things to see like the Hôtel de la Rochepot, on the place Monge dating from 1522 with a gothic façade and a gallery in three levels facing a belltower and the statue of Monge, the oldest of four children of Gaspart Monge creator of the geometry, founder of the school polytechnique and participate in the expedition to Egypt as well as been Prime Minister. You go on to the Place de la Halle in old city center with plenty of quaint stores and architecture delights. The ramparts going for 2 km with some private niches with some towers and bastions.

In wines one of the best AOC Beaune of the villages of the Côte-de-Beaune obtained in 1936. Between Savigny-lés-Beaune on the north and Pommard in the south with 42 premiers crus or 70% of the total vineyard producing each year about 15 500 hectoliters of wines on its 420 hectares. If you traveled along the Route 74 you will see heavens before you and of course a car is best. Really ,the area is split into the Côte de Nuits going from Nuits-Saint-Georges to Chenové and including Corgoloin; and the Côte de  Beaune starting from Corgoloin and towards Beaune.  The Côte de Nuits is known as the kidney of Burgundy due to its many taverns around with the center in the Place de la République. My favorite here is Joseph Faiveley. Then, you have the Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits with white wines and aligoté white very good. Road goes down to Aloxe-Corton  with Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils; and more affordable the Caves de la Reine Pédauque ; the Corton-Charlemagne region has my favorite chateau Corton-Grancey where Louis Latour ages its wines.  Moving on to Pernand-Vergelesse and the Domaine Bonneau du Martray and Domaine Rapet Pére & Fils; getting to Savigny-Lés-Beaune and the castle  and Maison Doudet-Naudin. At Chorey-Lés-Beaune, just north of Beaune  you see another castle  and the wines of Jacques Germain.

Apart, we reach Beaune. I have stayed in hotels for business trips, however, with the family we have stayed at  Hostellerie de Bretonniére, 43 Faubourg Bretonniére in the city center/downtown to ask for a room at the rear. More here: http://www.hotelbretonniere.com/en/

Actually, most of the times we rented a house around the region and as far south as Buxy. This is from Gîtes de France; info here:https://en.gites-de-france.com/search/holiday-rentals-cote-d-or-21.html?dep=21&region_adm=4&critinit=o

The producers here are many , hard to chose really. However, over the years of indulging in the wines of the region we like best these: Bouchard Pére et Filsdomaine Albert Morot, Chanson pére & FilsPatriarche Pére & Fils , Maison Louis Latour , Maison Louis Jadot ,and Maison Joseph Drouhin. Across from Patriarche and the Hôtel Dieu you have a wonderful place to taste them all and buy all kinds of local souvenirs, this is the Athenaeum de la Vigne et du Vin, more info here: https://www.athenaeum.com/

Beaune Beaune

Another wonderful place that I can recommend is the wine store of Denis Perret, right in city center surrounded by many houses where you can taste wine too. More here: http://www.denisperret.fr/fr/

If you can stop over Saturday, you will enjoy a wonderful market by the Hôtel Dieu , info in French best here: https://www.beaune-tourisme.fr/que-faire/agenda/beaune-le-marche-605923

History of wine in Burgundy here:  https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/our-winegrowers-our-expertise/a-living-history/immerse-yourself-in-the-history-of-bourgogne-wines,2515,9382.html?

And the others wine makers of Beaune here : https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/our-winegrowers-our-expertise/renowned-signatures/the-producers-behind-the-reputation-of-the-wines-of-bourgogne,2507,9363.html?

Beaune Mersault Beaune Beaune Buxy

Do not missed the Moutarderie Fallot, mustard traditionally done following the Dijon tradition. More here: https://www.fallot.com/en/

Nearby at the Chateau de Savigny-Lés-Beaune you have a wonderful wine tasting and purchase in addition to a wonderful museum of Abarth automobile, tractors and about 80 airplanes of different types . On the second floor, you see modele cars, airplanes motos, and having over 250 motocycles from many countries. Wonderful, more here:  https://www.chateau-savigny.com/

Savigny les Beaune

To eat again , we have been to Le Bistro Bourguignon 8 rue Monge and the La Ciboulette 69 rue Lorraine, and I have been to others on business trips.  However, we come with family mine and my wife’s family so we rent houses, and do our own cooking and picnic for the trips around Beaune , using the wonderful markets here.   You can get some idea on the restaurants above in Yelp that I recommend on my blogroll bottom of my front page in my blog. These are

https://www.yelp.com/biz/le-bistrot-bourguignon-beaune-2

https://www.yelp.com/biz/la-ciboulette-beaune

There you go ,hope it helps plan your trip to the beautiful Beaune, Burgundy and the Wines routes, all wonderful in my belle France. Cheers!!!

ps. Seems to found some photos from photos to add to the collection of Beaune in my blog. Enjoy it.

2 Comments to “Beaune is special for more than wines!”

  1. Braine is also one of my favorite French towns. Great post!

    Liked by 1 person

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