Archive for November 26th, 2017

November 26, 2017

My best restaurants of Brittany, Bretagne!!!

A few years back , I started a post on my best restaurants in France,  Paris and then of Versailles only etc. Well ,I have been a few years already in Brittany, gone to many restaurants, and will like to tell you about my better ones. Of course , always check for availability and times, and these are only the ones I think were good.

All of them are in my previous posts on the particular city or area I wrote, and they will be in no chronological order, the webpages will be found online, and some of them will be from National and International chains. I hope that as the season to be merrier is coming along , you find your way to enjoy one of the them while visiting very Christmas followed territory like Brittany.

La Boucherie, zone océane 3 ,rue de Danemark, Auray 56400

La Boucherie, Rue du Gay Lussac, Zone du Parc lann, Vannes 56000

Le Bistro du Port, 7 place Saint Sauveur, Saint Goustan, Auray 56400

L’Armoric, 1 Place Saint Sauveur , Saint Goustan, Auray 56400

Restaurant La Fromentine, 10 rue du Chateau, Auray 56400

Au Coin du Feu, D768, Camors 56330

Crêperie Saint Sauveur, port de Saint-Goustan, 6 rue Saint-Sauveur, Auray 56400

Le Grand Voyageurs Hôtel restaurant ,facing Ville Close ,Concarneau  29182

Kreiz An Aval, 1 avenue de la chapelle, Carnac 56340

Restaurant Le Cosy, 2 rue Saint Cornély, Carnac 56340

A l’Aise Breizh Café, Port de Plaisance du Moulin Blanc, Brest 29200

A l’Aise Breizh Café, Port de Plaisance, le port (above harbormaster house) Vannes 56000

La Gazzetta (italien) 4 rue de Siam, Brest 29200

Da Franco (Italien) 18 place Edouard Vaillant, Douarnenez 29100

Le Lion d’Or , 5 place Adrien Le Franc, Elven 56250

La Villa Toscane ,15 Place Jaffré, Guidel 56520

La Moule que Saoûle , Centre Commercial la Falaise, Guidel plages 56520

Le Guéthenoc, 11 place Notre Dame, Josselin 56120

L’Escale Hôtel Restaurant le port (harbor) facing the ocean, Locmariaquer 56740

Hôtel Restaurant Les Voyageurs, 10 rue de Cadélac, Loudeac 22600

La Terrace, 31 place des Otages, Morlaix 29600

O’Brothers 7 quai des Cabestans, Arzon 56640

Le Voilier, 8 quai des Voiliers, Arzon 56640

Les Trois Etoiles, ZA de Tréhuinec , D779 road Plescop 56890

Crêperie de l’Enclos ,51 place du Général de Gaulle, Pleyben 29190

Crêperie du Chateau de Rimaison, 6 rue de la Gare, Pluvigner 56330

Crêperie Restaurant Le Vorlen ,rue de la Gare, (across from above) Pluvigner 56330

Restaurant Le Martray, 32 rue du Pont/Place du Matray, Pontivy 56300

L’Aiglon, 42 du Général de Gaulle, Pontivy 56300

Restaurant Crêperie du Pont Fleuri, 5 rue Ellé, Basse ville, Quimperlé 29300

Restaurant bar Les Cariatides, 4 rue du Quéodet, Quimper 29000

La Taverne de  Maître Kanter, 14 quai du Steïr, Quimper 29000

Back to the 60’s American Diner, 58 rue de St Malo, Rennes 35000

Café Hoche, 15 place Hoche, Quiberon, 56170

Le Vivier (seafood), Côte Sauvage, Quiberon 56170

Au Goüt du Jour, 5 rue St Michel, Pluvigner 56330

Pizzeria Le Scampi, 11 Place du Marché, Pluvigner 56330

Crêperie des Bés, 4 rue Thévenard, St Malo 35400

Crêperie La Metairie de Kéroser, Allée de Kerozer, Saint Avé 56890

Crêperie Les Ajoncs, 4 rue de Vannes, Saint-Anne d’Auray

La Pataterie, ZAC Parc Lann, Rue Gay Lussac, Vannes 56000

Le Scoop bar brasserie, 60 rue Théophaste Renaudot, ZAC Kerlann , Vannes 56000

Le Gavroche, 17 rue de la Fontaine, Vannes 56000

Don Camillo Pizzeria, 20 rue du port, Vannes 56000

Les Remparts, 6 rue Alexandre le Pontois, Vannes 56000

Restaurant Anna & Paul, 23 Place du Général de Gaulle, Vannes 56000

Balade en Crepanie, 21 rue de la Fontaine, Vannes 56000

Chez la Mére 6 sous, 11 rue Thomas de Closmadeuc Vannes 56000

La Saigonnaise, 2 place de la Madeleine, Vannes 56000

Les Oliviers, 60 avenue du Verdun, Vannes 56000

Villa Valencia, 3 rue Bienheureux P Rene Rogue, Vannes 56000

Le Petit Belon, 3 place de la poissonnerie, Vannes 56000

Crêperie de la Tour Trompette, 4 rue Venelle, Vannes 56000

Le Gambetta, 1 place Gambetta, Vannes 56000

Lecocq & Folks, 5 rue Saint Vincent, Vannes 56000

Restaurant Poivre Rouge, Rue Aristide Boucicaut, Vannes 56000

TablaPizza, ZAC du Parc Lann, 6 rue Jacques Rueff, Vannes 56000

L’Orée des Monts, 5 place Charles de Gaulle, Sizun 29450

Pizzeria del Castello , 5 rue Maréchal Joffre, Hennebont, 56700

 brasserie Le Carré  15 place Aristide Briand ,Lorient 56100

Café Breton , 8 rue du Porche, Rochefort-en-Terre 56220

Ok these are the ones I like, no particular order, and only those I kept a business card ::) the rest if missed , are on the posts lol!!! I think you have plenty to choose thus…… bon appétit, and drink wines, cider, beers all in moderation , good for the economy and the traditions of France. Unesco World Heritage Intangible lists :Gastronomic meals; Cheers!

PS. I added some photos and dare to put some personal ones as well. No copying please, thanks.

Brest Concarneau Pont Aven Dinard Rennes Auray Auray Auray Elven Josselin La Gacilly La Roche Bernard La Trinite sur Mer Larmor Baden Locmariaquer Lorient LE Govello Plescop Pontivy Quiberon Quiberon Rochefort en Terre Pluvigner  Vannes  Vannes  Vannes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

November 26, 2017

Historical Clisson!!! , Loire Atlantique dept 44!! Pays de la Loire!

So as told yesterday, we did a whole day at maximum satisfaction level. Once we were finished with our errands locally, we set the wheels to Clisson, in the Loire Atlantique dept 44 ,Pays de la Loire region and some wines ,muscadet!

The town sits in the middle of the muscadet vineyards of Nantes but more importantly for the historically correct, it was part of the Brittany I now live. or Bretagne in French or Breizh in Breton ::) It became part of Brittany in 851AD with the treaty of Angers between king Charles the Bold of France and Erispoë, king of Brittany. So ,therefore, need to tell you a bit of history here, my treat!!!  The town took active part in the war of succession and the 100 years war. During the War of Succession of Brittany Olivier IV de Clisson was an active part on the side of the Dukedom of Brittany as a consequence was beheaded in the Halles of Paris after been accused of discussions for intervention with the king of  England Edward III. During the 100 years war his son Olivier V de Clisson was a key participant.

During the French revolution ,the Vendée wars against it took the valley of Clisson in total destruction. The revolutionary convention decided in 1793 to make obligatory the men to conscribe to the army ,however Clisson refuse the recruitment ,and with the insurrection started on March 10 1793. The rebel Vendéens took over Clisson on the same month and by May the Republicans ( French revolutionary as in the French Republic of today) entered the town and started the first massacre of people and burned the houses. This did not spare the Castle also burned; it got worse when the so call infernal columns occupied Clisson in 1794 with more massacres of the population; the town is completely destroyed and whoever was left leaves the town as well. Later , exiled Nantaise from Italy come back and decided to lived in Clisson by 1798, Pierre (painter)  and François (diplomat) Cacault and later a friend François-Frédéric Lemot is pulls into living in the town as well and acquired the Garenne or a hunting park of the castle and old hunting grounds of the Lords of Clisson in 1805 and later purchased the castle in 1807.  Here starts the rehabilitation of the town and the look you see today in many of its facades takes you back to Italy.

We visited by car after several months of talk by a colleague at work and me passing by it on my trips to Spain, this time there was a wine tasting fairs and well it was the right time to try the town with the family. We set out on the N165 past Nantes taking the A844/N844  taking exit 38 briefly on the A11 (free) and taking exit 44 for the N249 direction Clisson, you get off at the D763 direction Mouzillon/Clisson , it becomes the D149 entering Clisson right into the rue des Halles pedestrian street where there is a square for parking ,place St Jacques.

There are many things to see here but with our time (as usual on the run) we visited the Castle, Church of Notre Dame, and the Halles or covered market.

the Castle of Clisson was part of the family of Clisson (lords) since the 12C and by the 15C was a strategic point in the borders with the Dukedom of Brittany.  From a wooden castle it became a stone castle ; it was part of Olivier V de Clisson ,then the last Duke of Brittany , François II is very attached to the castle where he marries Marguerite de Foix ; Anne de Bretagne  was their first and heritage daughter!! From 1807 it belongs to Lemot until his death in 1827, the castle stays in ruins until finally purchase by the regional council in 1962; it is still in renovation but very slow, never got back after been ransacked and burned during the French revolution. The castle has a 3€ admission and several divided hours and months such as closed in January, opens 14h to 17h30 in February, March, and April every day except Tuesdays; 10h30 to 18h every day on May and June ; 10h30 to 18h in July, August every day. 10h30 to 18h in September every day. 14h to 17h30 October, November, and December every day; all day closing on November 1st and 11th as well as December 25th and 31st. More here in English with a very nice video: https://grand-patrimoine.loire-atlantique.fr/jcms/visit-our-sites/chateau-de-clisson/chateau-de-clisson-en-p2_201590?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoO2ew__b1wIVFBIbCh1Bng10EAAYASAAEgKQA_D_BwE

And from Nantes tourism in English too: https://www.nantes-tourisme.com/en/heritage/chateau-de-clisson

The Church of Notre Dame has a beautiful façade inspired on the Gesu of Rome. At Place Notre Dame. Built at the same spot as the old Collegiale Church burned at the French revolution. The new Church is from the 19C following Italian design. It has a Tuscan bell tower with a huge wonderful fresco painting of 1930. You have two wonderful Chapels of the Christ and Virgin: and can get nice views over the city such as the Castle ,  the terrace of the Hotel  Best Western Villa St Antoine,the viaduct, the terrace of the mansion Villa Lemot, and the bridge or pont de Nid d’Oie. worth a detour indeed. A nice webpage on it from an association on art and culture in French here: http://www.clissonhistoireetpatrimoine.fr/eglise-notre-dame/

Then, you can see the Les Halles or covered market ,there is renovation ongoing but a very nice place right in center town. They were built in the 15C on orders of Duke François II of Brittany. It served as refuge for combat troops of both sides in the wars of the Vendée and were restored on many occasions. They extend from the rue Saint Jacques to the Place Notre Dame, and still house today the nice market held on Tuesdays and Fridays; (they are in renovation now). Once done, you can see from the pictures in the city of Clisson here how wonderful it is: http://www.mairie-clisson.fr/infos-pratiques/marches/

However, the main reason we came is to take a closer look of the muscadet wines famous in the vineyards Nantaise or Nantes. It all started with five winemakers who decided to share their enthusiasm for the wines of the region and do events of wine tastings coupled with local products. So this weekend they hold Soif des vins et de Savoirs or thirst of wines and knowledge. For this we headed for the Domaine du Grand Air at Bourginal a commune of Clisson.  There was sparkling and red wines from the region as well as Sauvignon, and Pinot noir, and Chardonnay etc wines.

The association and their partners with contact info is here: http://www.domainedugrandair.fr/association.php

Right at the same webpage of the winemaker of the Domaine du Grand Air, and on the same site you can see pictures of their work: http://www.domainedugrandair.fr/photos.php

Very friendly nice farming area, and it shows the love of their trade. We came home with a case of white wines mix, pure grape jelly done on premises; foie gras from the Poitiers area, chocolates, macaroons and more from the region, including the famous gateau Nantais or cake, the recipe from the tourist site in English here : https://www.nantes-tourisme.com/en/food-and-wine/gateau-nantais

We just ate all kinds of goodies in the event from foie gras to cheeses to sweets in addition to the wines of all sorts that were  full no need to stop to eat on the road, just headed back home a bit late.

Just to mention there is a train station or gare de Clisson, the first TER line in this area for the train lovers in you, see photo. More here: https://www.ter.sncf.com/pays-de-la-loire/gares/87481440/Clisson/prochains-departs

And passing over on the 149 to Clisson we passed by the vineyards of Mouzillon and saw a very nice Church Saint Martin, see photo.

In all a wonderful day and time , very heavy on time but heck we will be back, so much to see , we have our works cut out to see it all in our lifetime. France is a feast or a movable feast at that! Enjoy the photos and have a great Sunday wherever you are, here is chilly with lows of -1C and now 9C (about 44F)at mid day, sunny bright wintery day, and no rain ::)  Paris at 45F  and cloudy wind-chill at 40F ;Cheers!!!

Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Clisson Mouzillon

 

 

 

 

 

 

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