My travels in the Morbihan, Part V

ok so nice weather again is back although sometimes is sun and shadows alternatively, the beaches are still half empty and we decided to go inland and see the marvelous little towns of the Morbihan, my department 56.

First, the overall tourist page for the Morbihan is

We set out by car as usual from home and took the free expressway N165 (nantes to brest); we got off at Plouay,Morlaix, Lanester exit/sortie 42. Heading towards Plouay, we saw this wonderful little town,in the middle of the race Rallye de Bretagne auto race right on the streets !!! the tourist page is on the tourist page in events you see in French the info on the rallye wow, nice surprise, . There you see the nice church of Saint Ouen, the Church was built at the end of the 14th century, it has a plan in the form of a Latin cross, with two aisles.Its limestone and marble choir develops in three parts: a central panel and two concave wings.All connected  at the beginning of the 18th century.In the large niches we can see the statues of Saint Barbara and Saint Eloi who seem contemporary, while in the niche above, the statue of Saint Ouen is older.The altar is of simple form.The Monument to the dead lying on the church square was built in 1923 by architect Chandran and the sculptor Gauthier. On the 4 pillars are the corps of the great war: a soldier, a gunner, a sailor, and an airman. Nice complex.

We continue to the old town of Le Faouêt, picturesque town with a nice museum of  traditions and folklore of the region,or Musée du Faouêt.  The mid-19th century, the richness of the heritage and traditions of le Faouët attract many French and foreign artists in inland Brittany. Inaugurated in 1987  in a former convent of Ursulines of the 17th century, the Museum of  le Faouët strives to revive this effervescence passed. Its collection consists of paintings, drawings, prints and sculptures, includes more than 450 works.  The major attraction here is the covered market hall, Les Halles, old halls of 1542 welcoming the market 1st and 3rd Wednesdays of the month. As in all the cities that had, the halles belonged to the local Lord. He held the right to establish a market and to build a Hall to House it. Le Faouët, it was mainly fairs to cows and horses. In the 16th century, there were 9 fairs  and a market was held every Wednesday. In the 17th century, it is the site of  up to 14 annual fairs. Today, the market is held every 1st and 3rd Wednesday of the month. Built as early as 1542, the building has undergone many restorations in the 19th and 20th centuries. Rectangular in shape, the halles cover an area of 940 m2. Their 53 meters by 19 meters  dimensions are impressive. Despite such a surface, they prove too small time compared to the affluence of some days of fair. The building consists of a large relaxing roof on a row of short columns of granite brought by a wall of stones. The elegance of these columns surprised; halls, commercial buildings, were generally devoid of any ornament. In the middle of the roof stands an octagonal Bell Tower topped with a  8-sided crown. Access is via two lateral entrances covered with a roof to rump (indoor elongated end of a roof at one or more triangular sections) and two axial entries covered a roof supported by two columns. The construction of the frame is wood of oak and fir. The day we were there it was a brocante or flea market on Saturdays going on,lovely. More for le Faouêt,

We continue our journey towards Kernaclésden, home of a wonderful 15C church that I have heard of; it was close but the exteriors are impressive for a second visit inside. The church of Notre Dame has an interesting house of bats next door,also closed. THe church of Notre-Dame ,its a building, of  flamboyant Gothic architecture, with all the riches of this time. Inside, it is blown away by the magnificence of the frescoes depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary and Jesus. We face the Angel musicians dreaming perhaps of a visitor ; the painter Maurice Denis. Is more worried about hell and its Devils or danse macabre, which reminds us that we are all equal facing death. The Church also contains another “treasure”. A colony of bats is housed in its bell tower! That is why, next to the Church, walkers can visit the House of the bat in order to know everything from the mysterious world of these ladies of the night. More on Kernaclésden,

We end up our trip in the famous breton sausage town of  Guémené sur Scorff in real Breton territory,deep in, deep traditions.

We saw the wonderful small church of Notre Dame de la Fosse, the church  (19th century), rebuilt around 1820. The Bell Tower dates from the 18th century and stood near the present Church: it houses four bells. The former Bell Tower collapsed in 1757. This church’s square and surmounted by a dome, whose construction was decided by the Guémené(-sur-Scorff) factory in 1761, has replaced a former collegiate church of the 14th century who disappeared during the Revolution, despite many vicissitudes. A college of canons was founded in 1529 by Mary and Louis IV de Rohan, the Lords of Guémené. The choir of the Church is enlarged in the 16th century to accommodate the chapter (six canons) and stalls are installed. Stalls are reworked in 1932 and only remain today the sculpted panels. These sculpted panels now adorn the side altars and are the only remnants of the former collegiate church.

You can move on to the ruins of the castle of the Rohan , a wonderful historical property,here is the long illustrious story from the source: the castle of Rohan (14th century), modified in the 15th century. The first castle was built in the 11th century by the family Guegant (ou Guégant). He was replaced in the 12th century by a fortress which belongs to the Rohan family. Redesigned in the 13th century, it becomes the property of Mabile or Mathilde de Rohan (wife of Robert of bar or Beaumetz) in 1251, and then the property of the Duke of Brittany (after 1369). Duke Jean III died in 1341, a struggle is committed for his estate between Jean de Monfort and Charles of Blois. The captain of the stronghold of Guémené is a named Raynaud. In July 1342, on the orders of Charles de Blois, Louis of Spain besieges Guémené who surrounded. Pierre Porteboeuf succeeded a little later and Louis of Spain called Gerard of Malin, Captain of Guémené. In December 1342, the English, allies of Montfort, who put the seat in throne of Guémené. The English eventually leave Guémené in 1369. In 1371, Jeanne de Rostrenen yields to Guémené-Duke Jean IV against a life annuity of a  thousand pounds. The latter makes Guémené Jeanne de Beaumer, its lawful owner and her husband Jean de Longueval. In 1377, John, Duke Viscount of Rohan, married his second wife Jeanne de Navarre and buys from the Lord of Longueval the”city, chatel  for 3,400 francs of gold. October 31, 1378 the acquisition by the Viscount of Rohan of châtellenies Kemene-Gomez and rock-Periou is confirmed by the King Charles V. Charles de Rohan, son of Jean I de Rohan and Jeanne de Navarre, inherits in 1384 ‘ châtellenies, cities and fortresses of Quesmenet-guégon. Charles de Rohan – Guéméné, in 1406, married Catherine du Guesclin, and both are the founders  of the branch of the Rohan-Guéméné. About 1474, Louis I, Duke of Rohan – Guéméné (husband of Louise de Rieux) built the current Castle. The work extend until 1486. The walls to a height of 15 metres and 300 metres in diameter, was defended by eight towers (including the Dungeon). In 1522 Louis IV de Guéméné and wife Marie de Rohan make disarm the castle into a Palace. The Bishop Claude Rohan died at the Château de Guémené July 8, 1540, and Marie de Rohan (wife of Louis V), June 9, 1542. In September 1570, Charles IX penalised the principality of  Guémené , by order letters given at Monceau, in favour of Louis VI de Guéméné. The castle is taken by Gabriel de Goulaine (right arm of Mercœur) and his Catholics in 1589, while Louis VI de Rohan had left the place by asking Thomas Tuault of the Palevart and the master of Saint-Georges to defend (the garrison consisted of then Lords of Kerdisson, de Launay, of Rimaison, of Kermahon, Kerhourin and a few adventurers). January 28, 1590, the castle was taken over by the royalists commanded by Prince de Dombes. In April 1591 and in January 1592, the Leaguers attempt again, but without success, to reconquered the Castle. In 1592, were Spanish League soldiers who occupy the castle for three weeks. In April 1598, following the signing of the edict of Nantes by Henri IV, the Spaniards then leave the Kingdom. By 1629, the Castle began to be dismantled on the orders of King Louis XIII. Attempting to restore the castle to 1644. An admission of 1682 briefly describes the castle: “the Château de Guémené, closed and closed high and strong walls, trimmed of machicolations and gunners, eight towers and pavilions, with several body building, surrounded and enclosed by moats and ditches, wide and deep and full of water, closing at drawbridge; the extent of which contains funds, including the moat, four newspapers and a half. Said Castle and the town of Guémené are required of the King as ancient Châtellenie in high, medium and low justice, with all the prerogatives of the edict of Principality in 1570, to which are appended the seigniories and fiefs of Leon, La Roche Messina, Trefaven and Plouhinec.” Partially restored in the 18th century (c. 1775) by Jules-Hercules prince of Rohan, the castle is confiscated as many emigrated by the Act of February 12, 1792, and serves as a military prison during the Revolution (it hosts approximately 500 English prisoners). In 1795, on 29 January, the garrison of Guémené, surprised by the chouans, takes refuge in the Castle and leaves the enemy loot the barracks and burn the papers of the municipality. In 1803, he was designated to accommodate invalids, in 1804 or 1808 to serve as a barracks. The princesse de Guéméné died in 1807 and prince Henri-Louis died in Prague in 1808. In 1814, the Duchess of Montbazon receives the succession of Guémené and resells all at a named Declerq, Tournay banker, for a sum of 2 115 000 francs. The castle was acquired in 1843 by the Juttard-Lannivon family. In ruins, it was demolished in 1926. The ramparts that remain date from 1380 and the door dates from the end of the 15th century; a piece of history to walk on by.

It has a nice mairie or hotel de ville of Guémené sur Scorff as well near the ruins of the castle ,in the shape of a mansion or manoir. Nice architecture. Also nice monument to the fallen near the church of course.  webpage  and a site for the tourisme on the pays du roi morvan including these communities ,

Enjoy the ride. Cheers.

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